I am 82. I have been cooking on cast iron for at least 75 of those years. All of my pans are from family members and all are over 100 years old. The pans are all smooth inside as that was the way they came from the factory. They have been washed with soap and water and scrubbed clean after each use. Now with stainless steel pads. In the old days, the pan was carried outside and scrubbed with clean sand. Each pan is perfectly seasoned. Pork fat or olive oil is the best. Just fry some bacon in the pan to re-season. Cast iron is porous. Porosity is just a characteristic of many cast metals. As your pan ages, eventually the oil seasoning will reach clean through the bottom of the pan. When the carbon built up on a pan, it was burnt in a clean wood fire. Leaving a completely clean pan. Yeah, I'm sure I'm going to ruin them soon. This guy is the best on line polisher I have seen. I would polish the pans exactly as he does. I worked in the metals industry for 40 years and have polished an awful lot of metal.
You can reduce the porosity and increase he smoothness of cast iron with burnishing. Basically use a flat hardened bearing under pressure to smoosh all the high points into the pores. It's how master cylinder and wheel cylinder bores get smoothed out. You can get surface finishes down to just a couple ten thou using a bearing. You can also do a hot burnish which will make the burnished layer smoother, slightly harder and more dense but it is quite involved and you can get some warping if you do it wrong. It's a bit over the top for a cast iron pan but I'm just putting this out there for anyone with more time to kill than I have. All my cast iron is sanded smooth to 220 and that's more than good enough for me. Also I tend to gravitate towards brands like Griswold and away from Lodge, the grey iron that modern day Lodge uses is softer and more porous. If you can find one from before the mid 50's this isn't so. Something changed with Lodge around that time and the casts just aren't as good. I do have a #8 Lodge from the 30's that's nearly identical to my #8 Griswold in almost every way but the bottom. They even ring similar, and a #8 modern Lodge has a much duller and muffled ring to it.
I have to disagree. Cast iron is not porous to the point that oil will go through the top and be on the bottom of the pan over time. That just won't happen. On the microscopic level, cast iron has surface irregularities, not porosity. So what people think are pores is really just a very uneven textured surface. If you break an iron pan and test the iron in the middle of that break, you will not find any oil.
It's nice to finally watch a video where someone knows what they're doing. There's so many videos of people unboxing a new Lodge and trying to cook with it!
Unbox to cook is fine., Absolutely zero need ton sand these. Its all aesthetics. The guy that made the video likes them smooth, its aesthetics. A brand new one out of the box cooks the same as a smooth one.
@@JVRottweil Wrong, the factory seasoning is objectively inferior to a 5-6 layer flax seasoning. And the smooth finish is not "all aesthetics". A rough or smooth finish is better a cooking different things. Rough is best for meats because it grabs on and sears very well. A smooth finish is better for something like a fried eggs/omelets where it would be ideal to slide around and prevent it from breaking apart. This is why I just opt for carbon steel for stuff like that and cook meats, stews gravies etc in a cast iron. And as far as seasoning it's up for debate which is better.
@@joebenson528 LOL you fell for the Cheryl Canter Flax oil hype. I know it makes you feel smarter but its really not the best at all. Well among most people that actually use their cookware. If you knew how to cook on cast iron, you would know this. It al about temp control. I can cook an egg on a bumpy loge with no oil if I get the temp right. Proving the surface does not matter.
Awesome job smoothing out that pan! The end result looks fantastic! Ask 10 cast iron owners how to season your cast iron pans and you'll get 10 different answers, but I've reseasoned a few hundred pans and I can give you a couple tips that work consistently... 1) You want to use the thinnest layer of oil possible when seasoning. I don't remember where I heard it first, but I always think "cover the entire pan with a tiny bit of oil, then use a clean cloth to rub that oil off like it was never meant to be on there in the first place". The thinner your oil layers are, the stronger your seasoning will be. 2) You want to bake your pan just over the smoke point of your oil so it can polymerize. Grapeseed oil is an excellent choice to use for seasoning, but it has a smoke point of about 430F, so you'll want to bake your pan for about an hour at 450F or so to let that grapeseed oil polymerize and get really hard and glossy and bond with the iron.
Gave a compliment FIRST, and then hit us with really good tips that don’t detract from the video. This is how RUclips comments should be done. Thank you
I cook with my Grandmother's and Mother's cast iron skillets. After every use, I wash them with hot soapy water and rinse. In case I notice one getting sticky, I will fry something in olive oil. I used to think animal fats had to be used, like pork chops or bacon. Olive oil seasons quite well. Vegetable oils just get gummy. These cast iron skillets have been in use for over 100 years. The traditional way to clean the carbon build up on the outside was to simply burn the pan in a wood fire., wash and re-season. I expect to ruin one any day now by washing them. (Sarcasm). The farm wife didn't have time to "baby" her cookware. It was used, hard. She didn't have grape seed oil, she had animal fats. Just the constant cooking kept the pan perfectly seasoned. By the way, they were polished smooth at the foundry.
I've got a 12" cast iron skillet of indeterminant lineage I salvaged it from a junk pile 20 years ago. Removed the rust and got a great skillet in return. Surprisingly, no pits. Very smooth finish. As non-stick as anything I've used. My Lodge 10" cast iron skillet has the sand cast finish. I'm going to try your technique. Thanks for the video.
I did that to my new skillet and after I made it smooth, it would not hold a coat of seasoning without flaking off. After I put a 1/2 cup of white vinegar in it on a low burner and let it sit and fizz for 30 minutes. Drained and washed then repeated two more times. Seasoned first with Flax seed oil on a burner at 350 f. two times and then coated it with a bees wax/grape seed oil combination and baked it in the oven twice, the pan is now jet black and cooks great with very little sticking and no season flaking at all.
I just knock the high spots off using the low spots as a gauge as to not take off too much material in any one area, then season. Maybe not the best way, but that's how I do it. Works perfect for me every time.
Some people like to do things because they can or just to try and see what it’s like. I’ve got an old Lodge and it’s great but all the new “artisanal” cast iron that a lot the reviewers are saying is better are smooth. So because Lodge is expensive and this won’t ruin it and because I like to play in my shop (and kitchen) I’m going to try it and see if it’s any better. That doesn’t mean I’m not bright just means I want to try something new.
Nice video but i found that the factory finish on my new Lodge skillets was just fine. I was able to cook most foods including eggs without even reseasoning. The key is start with a preheated pan. I think all the extra work is great but just not for me. Thanks for a great video.
Great video, I have a lodge skillet as well and it just never cooks like my Griswold or Wagner. Now I know why. I will be doing this to my lodge soon. Looking forward to searing some nice steaks. Thank you for posting, I will let you know the outcome.
I'll look forward to hearing how that works! I'm pretty sure the metallurgy is the same, it's just a matter of whether you do the work or pay for them to do it for you. :)
I did this with a new Lodge pan in the garage without ventilation or a mask. Don't do that. I blew black crud and even rust out of my sinuses for several days. Wear a mask.
To each is own. Ive tried this way and it was ok but it seemed like the oil had a hard time bonding to such a smoothe surface. I tried just using sand paper to take the pre seasoning all the way down but left a slightly rough finish. Then I seasoned it usings grapeseed oil by applying a layer and sticking it in my grill on full blast for an hour. Take it out, let it cool then do it again. I did this 4 times a day for a week. After that I put it on the stovetop on medium heat and cooked a chopped up onion and let it absorb any unwanted flavors out of the oil. I also use an onion to clean my grill. Now I can cook an egg on it and nothing sticks.
I'm a single apartment guy. Got a cast iron. I'm tired hand scrubbing with a metal scrub. I was thinking of getting an orbital (or mouse?) sander but it seems like you're using more hardcore tools (think I should probably still get eye wear and use my N95 for safety), but I can't use that. No hardware tools. Now I'm second guessing the tools since you seem to have something more hardcore tool wise (in the beginning). It doesn't look like a sander with the weird flap disk (?) assortment.
I had been watching some metal working videos. One pan maker uses old automotive brake rotors. Lodge, according to their website, uses fresh pig iron, with some scrap steel.
That sand texture is just fine. I have cast pans from 6" to 15" I use them for fish, omlettes, crepes, chili, you name it - - I use those pans. I do an oil polymerization before using each time I don't use fancy oils I use what I'm cooking with and NOTHING sticks - - - ever.
Most of my cast iron is older than dirt. I season them on occasion and nothing sticks. You have to know how to season your pan. Some are smooth due to age and other alittle bumpy. Cast iron can be your bestfriend in the kitchen.
I did almost the same thing with the same skillet. I didn't quite go down to bare iron but close. Also did it by hand which took longer but I don't have a grinder. I use avacado oil instead of grapeseed but most oils will work as long as they have a higher smoke point.
An egg would be nice to see on the pan! I have seen a few people test the pan by blowing under an egg on a skillet. If the egg comes up off the pan a bit, it’s a good season. Hope this helps!
They keep it rough to make it easier to pre-season while hanging on the assembly line. The other major manufacturers went out of business. This move to pre season saved Lodge’s business
@@JeffMarxWoodworking I'm almost ashamed to admit it, but I do mine on paper plates with paper towels in a microwave. Seems to get crispier and then just throw the plate in the trash outside, less stink in the house and easy cleanup. But someday I plan on trying it and you'll be the first to know. Lol...
You are supposed to raise temp above smoke pout for seasoning. Grape seed oil is 420. Most take it to 500. Should fry potatoes first, the starch builds base.
Some other brands do, but the extra machining is pretty expensive. It's debatable as to whether it makes a difference with regard to its non-stick performance.
I splurged on a polished cast iron wok this spring, and it is an absolute dream to cook with. My previous experience with cast iron was a disaster,, but now I know why. Even though it turns out beautifully every time - even in a camper oven! - it feels weird making skillet cornbread in a wok. I'm going to get a Lodge and make this one of my winter projects. Think I can pull it off just using drill attachments, and not use a grinder?
@@JeffMarxWoodworking Thanks so much! I'm excited to get started! I saw one after this that had been done entirely by hand, so it's encouraging to know that it is definitely possible without a grinder.
The darkness came from the soot in the oil fire as it's carbon that gives a cure its darkened color. High smoke point oils like grape seed and flax will more readily polymerize without as much soot hence their lighter, harder initial bronze like finish. Eventually they'll end up dark from use as the cure builds more layers infused with more soot prone animal fats and soot from higher heat use like searing. If you want that traditional dark look from the initial, unused cure while using a high smoke point oil then you simply have to cure it the traditional way over a fire around 450-500 degrees (Webers work well for this). The soot from the fire will supply the carbon and you'll end up with something that has a darker initial cure.
The fire is what you want to avoid as it creates ash and soot rather than carbonizing the existing polymerized oil layer. However, the high heat caused by the fire likely gave him the carbonizing effect that makes cast iron so useful. Carbon is very slick and hard and that's what we're after in seasoning pans.
There hasn't been any flaking or spalling of the seasoning coating. I really need to use it more than I have and it should just keep getting better. Thank you for watching and asking!
Grit order: Quick-strip disk, 40, 60, 80, 100-400 UPDATE: Followed your instructions and brought my Lodge up to snuff within 2 days. It now fully resists sticking as much as Teflon but without the toxic side effects. Eggs and omelet do not stick - is this magic ?
Recently found a 100+ year old Wagner, buried in the ground and completely rusted up.....took off a ton of surface rust already, but there is substantial pitting, so I'm going to have to grind it substantially to even it out at the very least........no matter WHAT people say on RUclips....sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do. My big problem is, that this skillet is like 1/2 the thickness of most modern brands, leaving very little room for errant overgrinding....😬🙏😬🙏🙏😅😅🙏🙏
I've always been curious about this. How it would affect the end result of a cast iron pan if it were first taken down to a really smooth polished state before seasoning. I've also considered the same about those big blackstone style griddles. Cool video. Looks like it passed the bacon test.
Yes, the critical bacon test was a success! It's been great with everything I've thrown at it so far - very happy. Thanks for watching and commenting. I don't have any experience with Blackstone griddles but they look like something worth experimenting with.
Cast iron and carbon steel are very similar, and there will be almost no difference between smooth cast iron and carbon steel pans in terms of performance. I believe you can find a lot of test results for carbon steel on RUclips.
I do this with my Lodge pans. I have an older Wagner Ware/Sydney pan I got from my grandfather and guess what? It has a much smoother surface finish than the newer Lodge stuff. He left me a no-name square skillet that is the same way. I think that the rough "bad road" texture Lodge uses allows the iron to poke above the carbon layer that normally makes cast iron so useful. That hard, slick carbon layer is what makes it non-stick and having a bumpy surface means the carbon layer breaks and doesn't evenly cover. By smoothing it down flat, you leave enough surface area for the carbon layer to form, and have it smooth enough to give that carbon layer a fighting chance at forming and growing. If it's rough, the hot iron pokes above and stick to every protein it touches...which sucks if that protein is an over-easy egg you're hoping to eat.
If you into steak, try a seven bone steak. Get it as hot as you can. Salt the bottom of the skillet like the steak and throw the steak on top of it. For a 3/4-1" steak, cook 3 minutes both sides I think. It comes out good. 7-bone comes off the front leg/shoulder. Around here it tastes better than any prime steak and may be a little chewey, but good. I'd imagine it could be modified some. Also, get a heavy flat weight as other cast iron and set on top your steaks while they cook. It alters it in a good way. Meat is kind of lighter.
@@JeffMarxWoodworking oh, don't put the heavy weights on the steak in the above until you know how it tastes as is. Where the added weight forces heat into the meat and might burn it rather than well seared. Also, have the 7-bone room temp. I like sprinkling black pepper but only do outside. 😂Lol, I like to sear black pepper and cayenne, but inside, just imagine inhaling pepper spray while breathing. Pepper tastes better seared in, But DO NOT DO INSIDE, ONLY OUTSIDE😂.
Thanks! It's from brandingirons.com. you just send them an image file and they make it for you. You can get electric as I did, or one you heat w a torch. I actually have two sizes now as the first one was so good.
I guess if you prefer the looks of a smooth skillet, this is a good idea. The skillet was already non stick when it was new tho. The texture has zero to do with whether food sticks or not.
It must be the Big Algorithm, because I just bought those flap disks for my angle grinder a few days ago, before even *thinking* about using it on some of my old lodge pans. But if you are using an angle grinder, make sure you use a face shield. Those grinders spin at 13,000 RPM and the disks can break. I would also recommend keeping the guard on for the same reason. If you don't have an angle grinder, you can use a regular old orbital sander. You probably won't get it as smooth, but you can still make a big improvement over the original surface. But I really came here for the seasoning advice. I'll have to try your trick with the grapeseed oil and seasoning on the grill! Thanks!
@@JeffMarxWoodworking I just completed my first try. Years ago I got into Lodge cast irons in order to buy pans that were made in the USA. It didn't take long to realize that it was easier to clean than all of those made in China pots. So I picked up a Lodge cast iron, and it has been a mainstay for gumbo and chili ever since. The top get used almost daily for eggs and grilled cheese and such. But the dutch oven has always been rather rough. So I decided to clean it up. For my first project, I just wanted to clean it up a bit. So I just used the orbital sander and cleaned it up enough so I could see some bare metal, and cleaned up peeling seasoning on the side walls. I wore a mask because iron dust isn't really something I want to breath. After sanding, I cleaned it with an SOS pad and dried it on the stove, before seasoning it with the grapeseed oil (thanks for the tip!). After one seasoning, this thing is like Teflon! I fried some hot dogs in it and they didn't stick at all. And cleanup afterwards took about 5 seconds with a brush. I'm going to have to do this to all of my cast iron pans!
Always use ammonia when restoring and cleaning a rusty old cast iron or carbon steel pan it's how they put the bluing on the pan that black/blie isn't "seasoning" its a layer of special oxidation that is a reaction the ammonia causes that protects the metal and makes it more able to take the seasoning...its the same method they used to blue gun barrels back then! Using the grinder took all the oxidation off the outside of the pan and it will never season properly if you don't restore it!
I just bought a lodge cast iron skillet and I don’t know what to do. Should I wash it first with soap and water? Also it’s pre seasoned! I hear grape seed oil is good for seasoning. What should I do? I hear vegetable oil and canola are not healthy oils. Is grapeseed oil good for seasoning? What should I use?
The skillet comes preseasoned, you don't really need to do anything with it if you don't want to. Proper care with cooking over time will continually refresh the seasoning. If it ever wears off, you can reseason, and grapeseed oil is a great choice. If you prefer you pan smoother, you can follow a procedure similar to what I showed here.
@@JeffMarxWoodworking I have one more question! When I wipe my cast iron with paper towel or towel after cooking and cleaning. The entire paper towel is black! What is this black residue? Like the entire towel is black after wiping it including my fingers! Is this black stuff safe? The skillet is only a week old and I’ve cooked on it 3x. Is this normal?
@@priestlygarments4004 I'm not sure. I'd give it a slightly more aggressive cleaning just not using anything abrasive that might take off the seasoning. Good luck, I hope you can sort that out.
@@priestlygarments4004 If you clean it initially when bought, I wouldn’t worry about anything else after that. It could even be some seasoning/carbonized oil that was physically scraped off by your utensils.
New cast iron pans and pots aren't made like the old good ones. Some no matter how much you cook and season it it's not going to get smooth. Just like everything else made today it's not like the good old days. If you have old cast iron products you are truly blessed. Hang on to them and pass the them to people who actually care. Not the people who run around saying " Lets go!"
There is also some excellent quality new cast iron cookware available, but like everything in life the good stuff is expensive. I'm generally a believer like you that sometimes older products are worth putting some love into and you'll end up with something that your grandkids can enjoy some day. Thanks for watching and commenting!
It's holding up great so far. I try to treat it properly to maintain the seasoning as best I can each time I use it. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Yeah, they did pretty well (like in awesome) with whatever good cooking fat they had. You can skip this whole process and just cook a bunch of bacon, which seems like a good idea anyway.
It's a WEN angle grinder which is a budget brand with (in my opinion) decent quality. I didn't need to, and perhaps shouldn't have removed the guard. Thank you for watching and commenting!!!
Hello! I grind the pan with machine so it turn back to silver color. I did seasoned the pan with gas stove but the color changed to brown not black. How do i get black color again? Can i get the black color back if i season the pan with oven at high temperature?
The seasoning process works best with multiple thin coats and several cycles. My understanding is that ~450 degrees F or 232 C is the ideal temperature if you're using grapeseed oil. ou need to get above it's smoke temperature to cause it to polymerize. Good luck!
@@JeffMarxWoodworking thank you for reply! I used seasoning wax(beez wax) and did 4 times. I noticed that i didn’t cool down the pan after seasoning. I just kept spreading the wax after the smoke disappear. I will try the seasoning the pan with your advice and i will let you the result! Once again thank you sooooo much and happy new year!
Hey, sorry if this is a silly question. 400 grit seems insanely smooth, did you have any issues getting the seasoning to stick? Is there any advantage (and/or downside) to stopping at say, 180 or 220, or did you find it worthwhile to go all the way to 400? In any case, the pan looks great and that crazy temp spike you mentioned didn't seem to do it any harm. Cheers!
Thank you Adam! The Lodge pans work great without doing anything to the original cast surface. I think you could likely polish to whatever degree you choose (higher or lower) and it will work great and the seasoning will adhere well. I appreciate your watching and commenting! Jeff
Way too much oil. What you have in your skillet is partially polymerized, sticky gunk. Real patina feels smooth (like glass) and dry to the touch. To get the oil to polymerize completely, it has to be applied in thin layers. Wipe the skillet with oil and make sure everything is covered. Then use a clean towel (!) and wipe it all off again as if you were trying to get it completely dry again. The skillet then shouldn't look soaky wet like in the video, but only have a matte, silky shine and feel dry to the touch. Then put it into the oven or BBQ at a temperature above the smoking point of your oil for an hour. Repeat the process two more times and the skillet is ready for use. When applying the first layer of oil, you will feel the metal surface absorb quite some oil. With each additional layer, you will notice the surface being 'saturated' and requiring less oil. It also helps to apply the oil to a warm skillet.
Yes, mostly black with a decent film of seasoning. I've had a number of people commenting that I put on too much oil, perhaps more thinner coats would have been better. Thank you!
@@JeffMarxWoodworking Thank you for answering. I bought a used beautiful pan and it has a silver spot on it, seasoning it now for the first after scrubbing. Hoping on the second pass it'll be as nice as your's. Thanks for responding, I really appreciate that.
I ordered something that had rave reviews called Crisbee Stik that is used for seasoning, was before i saw your awesome video. Do you think i should ditch that and get grapeseed oil instead…it was 15 bucks this stuff but it contains soybean oil, beeswax, and palm oil. Thanks
I'm not familiar with that product, it might be great - I don't know. Most of the research I did pointed me toward grapeseed oil. Like most things, there are likely multiple workable solutions. Best of luck, I hope you get years of good use out of your cast iron!
@@JeffMarxWoodworking yup, very true! And i got a new 12” cast iron and a new 12” carbon steel french style pan. Cant wait to get some good use out of them
Yes your temperature was too low. At least 400 F is recommend for a good bond and blacking. The fact your temperature spiked up 700 F is what gave you the blackening but it might of burnt the oil....so you might have a burnt up oil bond.
Do you think the higher temps you accidentally went to during your seasoning process actually helped seasoning process? I’m struggling to get the seasoning to stay on my smooth cast iron.
@@JeffMarxWoodworking thanks for the quick response. I’ve been using Crisco, but I’m gonna try grape seed oil as I have heard it has the same hard qualities as flaxseed oil but doesn’t flake as easy.
@@Ahriman_II yes. Grapeseed and go to a higher temp...about 450 for 45 mins or so each round. Also not sanding to a very smooth surface helps. Keep some texture but just take off the high rougher peaks.
My intention was to improve it's non-stick properties because of the smoother surface vs. the sand casting roughness. Thanks for watching and for the question!
I haven't to this point. It's important to be gentle with cleaning (no abrasive cleanser) and always consider any cooking operation as an opportunity for re-seasoning. Proper seasoning improves over time and is comprised of a lot of very thin layers rather than one thick one.
How's that? I've been thinking about doing it to my new pan as the rough texture finish it came with feels horrible and doesn't seem particularly non stick
If you can fit it all in at once then go ahead and start w a cold pan. I've done both and not found much of a difference. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@JeffMarxWoodworking Thanks for the reply and the content. I resurfaced both of my Lodge's as well. I just used an orbital sander with 80 grit then 140.
@@JeffMarxWoodworking It turned out wonderfully. I seasoned them with flax seed oil in a 500-degree oven for an hour then cooled for 2 hours. I did this 3 times before cooking in them and they are working great.
@@JeffMarxWoodworking Bacon is a great ending, but we are all curious about the cleanup and how much if anything was a little stuck on the pan. I have just stripped and re-seasoned a 60ish year old skillet and I still have a little bacon sticking to it.
@@jeffbates6759 Good question: There was zero sticking, and that's mosly been the case for everything else I've done in it since including sous vide steaks. It would be great to compare side by side with an off-the-shelf pan to see how different they are. I know that well seasoned and maintained cast iron can perform like a champ even without this extra effort.
The "rough" texture of a Lodge pan is IMO, more non-stick than a smooth pan. This may seem counter-intuitive, but I'll put a modern Lodge pan against ANY smooth cast iron pan. I have smooth antique Wagners and Griswolds and many, many cast iron pans of various eras and manufacture. I know of what I speak. Don't get me wrong, I love my old smooth pans, but resurfacing "rough" to smooth with the idea that they'll be more "nonstick" is just incorrect. You do a nice job of it though!
jeff, doing great stuff here! Just,,,,, sound engineer the volume of the cover music a bit please. your voice is at 10 db, and the cover music( really not needed) is at 20!. and may I suggest a little less techno and maybe some epic battle chant/ forging the dwarven armor like "duelyst" or "iron man building Mark 1 one hour loop" as background/cover music. : )
My comment sounded real negative but I didn't mean it like that. There have been many cast iron polishers and the results compared to a well seasoned unfinished surfaces to indicate that it's not worth all the work. I do love a shiny cast iron surface though.
"Of course the bacon didn't stick, it contains a ton of fat." Bacon tends to stick in spite of all the fat. Try cooking it in a stainless steel pan for example, or an unseasoned (or ill-seasoned) cast iron pan. You'll have some stuck-on bacon residue to clean up afterwards for sure. "Let's see you fry a egg on that shiny new surface." Eggs on the other hand are very easy to fry without sticking; all you need to do is coat the cooking surface with e.g., butter, and they won't stick, not even on stainless steel. I always fry eggs in 1 tablespoon of butter in an 11" 304 stainless steel electric skillet at 300 degrees F, and they slide around the pan as if they were on wet ice.
@@JeffMarxWoodworking wipe it with a lent free cloth after you oil it. Too much oil will cause it to puddle and get sticky. Your food will taste like burnt oil.
People who are doing this to cast iron cookware aren't really the brightest tools in the shed. What do they think we did all these decades? Nobody sanded or ground down our cast iron. Y'all are ridiculous.
I'm with you on this one Shirley. I have a set of three cast iron pans and I've never sanded them down. I seasoned them all a couple of times and then just used them, the texture soon smooths itself out with use and I've never had anything stick in them. Best wishes from the UK
Look at the old cookeware compared to modern. The reason they didn't do this in the past is because most were made much smoother in the past and it wasn't needed. Thinking people are ridiculous simply for having an opinion that differs from yours is... well... ridiculous. Do a search on youtube. There are literally hundreds and hundreds of videos of people trying to get modern Lodge cast iron to be like old cast iron used to be. The reason people like vintage cast iron is because it is smooth. Field, butterpat, stargazer, finex and others all grind the natural texture left by the sand mold away to make it smooth, while Lodge, and other less expensive manufacturers do not. You prefer cheaply made things. We get it. As for your "Brightest tool in the shed".. LMAO. Might want to not poke fun at others' intelligence when yours is so blatantly showing. Sharpest tool maybe? Brightest light maybe? Meh... brightest tool is close enough, right? lol.
@@trbig67 Steve Wood is right. Tooling a smooth finish on CI cookware is a waste of time and makes the seasoning process trickier and even more time-consuming. A Lodge pan will be become smooth with proper seasoning and normal usage. The number of misguided people making RUclips videos does not change the facts.
@@spaceman51974 My Lodge cast iron is as smooth as glass, too, and I didn't grind it. I just cooked with it. It smoother with use. Now it is bulletproof. I think those who grind perfectly good CI cookware are misguided, but I don not consider them to be imbeciles. OTOH, there is spaceman51974...
You play with your bacon way too much, how about you just let it cook? The fats breakdown into oils and it deep fries in its own oils. You don't have to turn it every 10 seconds 🤷♂️ Seasoning.. I actually use lard. I know everyone is against that. But I've been using cast iron for 30 years in my eggs float on the surface. Lard yes, that comes from a pig. Kind of like that bacon you're cooking. Everyone has their opinion flaxseed oil etc. It's fun to see an interest again in cast iron. I Have a good collection of mostly old. The complete Lodge set to.
![Diggy Graves - Red Vineyard [Official Lyric Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/8Ro085T0mnQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I am 82. I have been cooking on cast iron for at least 75 of those years. All of my pans are from family members and all are over 100 years old. The pans are all smooth inside as that was the way they came from the factory. They have been washed with soap and water and scrubbed clean after each use. Now with stainless steel pads. In the old days, the pan was carried outside and scrubbed with clean sand. Each pan is perfectly seasoned. Pork fat or olive oil is the best. Just fry some bacon in the pan to re-season.
Cast iron is porous. Porosity is just a characteristic of many cast metals. As your pan ages, eventually the oil seasoning will reach clean through the bottom of the pan. When the carbon built up on a pan, it was burnt in a clean wood fire. Leaving a completely clean pan.
Yeah, I'm sure I'm going to ruin them soon.
This guy is the best on line polisher I have seen. I would polish the pans exactly as he does. I worked in the metals industry for 40 years and have polished an awful lot of metal.
That's outstanding, thank you! As almost always, bacon is the answer.
69 here and gotta agree on the bacon fat!
You can reduce the porosity and increase he smoothness of cast iron with burnishing. Basically use a flat hardened bearing under pressure to smoosh all the high points into the pores. It's how master cylinder and wheel cylinder bores get smoothed out. You can get surface finishes down to just a couple ten thou using a bearing. You can also do a hot burnish which will make the burnished layer smoother, slightly harder and more dense but it is quite involved and you can get some warping if you do it wrong. It's a bit over the top for a cast iron pan but I'm just putting this out there for anyone with more time to kill than I have. All my cast iron is sanded smooth to 220 and that's more than good enough for me. Also I tend to gravitate towards brands like Griswold and away from Lodge, the grey iron that modern day Lodge uses is softer and more porous. If you can find one from before the mid 50's this isn't so. Something changed with Lodge around that time and the casts just aren't as good. I do have a #8 Lodge from the 30's that's nearly identical to my #8 Griswold in almost every way but the bottom. They even ring similar, and a #8 modern Lodge has a much duller and muffled ring to it.
Just fry some bacon is the answer to so many of lifes problems! :)
I have to disagree. Cast iron is not porous to the point that oil will go through the top and be on the bottom of the pan over time. That just won't happen. On the microscopic level, cast iron has surface irregularities, not porosity. So what people think are pores is really just a very uneven textured surface. If you break an iron pan and test the iron in the middle of that break, you will not find any oil.
It's nice to finally watch a video where someone knows what they're doing. There's so many videos of people unboxing a new Lodge and trying to cook with it!
Thank you for the nice comment!
Unbox to cook is fine., Absolutely zero need ton sand these. Its all aesthetics. The guy that made the video likes them smooth, its aesthetics. A brand new one out of the box cooks the same as a smooth one.
I don't even TRY to season my Lodge iron...I just start cooking, and the seasoning builds up in short order. Never had a problem.
@@JVRottweil
Wrong, the factory seasoning is objectively inferior to a 5-6 layer flax seasoning. And the smooth finish is not "all aesthetics". A rough or smooth finish is better a cooking different things. Rough is best for meats because it grabs on and sears very well. A smooth finish is better for something like a fried eggs/omelets where it would be ideal to slide around and prevent it from breaking apart. This is why I just opt for carbon steel for stuff like that and cook meats, stews gravies etc in a cast iron. And as far as seasoning it's up for debate which is better.
@@joebenson528 LOL you fell for the Cheryl Canter Flax oil hype. I know it makes you feel smarter but its really not the best at all. Well among most people that actually use their cookware. If you knew how to cook on cast iron, you would know this. It al about temp control. I can cook an egg on a bumpy loge with no oil if I get the temp right. Proving the surface does not matter.
Awesome job smoothing out that pan! The end result looks fantastic!
Ask 10 cast iron owners how to season your cast iron pans and you'll get 10 different answers, but I've reseasoned a few hundred pans and I can give you a couple tips that work consistently...
1) You want to use the thinnest layer of oil possible when seasoning. I don't remember where I heard it first, but I always think "cover the entire pan with a tiny bit of oil, then use a clean cloth to rub that oil off like it was never meant to be on there in the first place". The thinner your oil layers are, the stronger your seasoning will be.
2) You want to bake your pan just over the smoke point of your oil so it can polymerize. Grapeseed oil is an excellent choice to use for seasoning, but it has a smoke point of about 430F, so you'll want to bake your pan for about an hour at 450F or so to let that grapeseed oil polymerize and get really hard and glossy and bond with the iron.
Awesome, thank you for sharing that great info!
Yep ask ten get ten. In fact I never reseason the new pans . I do season them first. Never had an issue with the ruff spots.
@@johnjohn9639 agreed, if you're happy that's what matters!
Gave a compliment FIRST, and then hit us with really good tips that don’t detract from the video. This is how RUclips comments should be done. Thank you
I cook with my Grandmother's and Mother's cast iron skillets. After every use, I wash them with hot soapy water and rinse. In case I notice one getting sticky, I will fry something in olive oil. I used to think animal fats had to be used, like pork chops or bacon. Olive oil seasons quite well. Vegetable oils just get gummy.
These cast iron skillets have been in use for over 100 years. The traditional way to clean the carbon build up on the outside was to simply burn the pan in a wood fire., wash and re-season.
I expect to ruin one any day now by washing them. (Sarcasm).
The farm wife didn't have time to "baby" her cookware. It was used, hard. She didn't have grape seed oil, she had animal fats. Just the constant cooking kept the pan perfectly seasoned. By the way, they were polished smooth at the foundry.
While I came here to watch the seasoning (which was great), I truly enjoyed that you didn’t overcook the bacon lol
Hah, thank you! Some people think its overcooked the way I like it.
I've got a 12" cast iron skillet of indeterminant lineage I salvaged it from a junk pile 20 years ago. Removed the rust and got a great skillet in return. Surprisingly, no pits. Very smooth finish. As non-stick as anything I've used. My Lodge 10" cast iron skillet has the sand cast finish. I'm going to try your technique. Thanks for the video.
Thank you, and good luck! Please wear a mask while you grind your skillet, that stuff is pretty nasty.
I did that to my new skillet and after I made it smooth, it would not hold a coat of seasoning without flaking off. After I put a 1/2 cup of white vinegar in it on a low burner and let it sit and fizz for 30 minutes. Drained and washed then repeated two more times. Seasoned first with Flax seed oil on a burner at 350 f. two times and then coated it with a bees wax/grape seed oil combination and baked it in the oven twice, the pan is now jet black and cooks great with very little sticking and no season flaking at all.
Wow, that's quite the process. I'm glad you were able to make it work and hope you'll get to use and enjoy it for many years!
I just knock the high spots off using the low spots as a gauge as to not take off too much material in any one area, then season. Maybe not the best way, but that's how I do it. Works perfect for me every time.
Sounds totally reasonable!
That's brave, to smooth cast iron and put that on youtube.....Thanks for sharing.
Thank YOU for watching and commenting!
Too much oil and too low temp. The accidental spike in temp saved your bacon. Polymerisation, as grapeseed smoke point is around 450F.
Thats great to know, thanks!
Some people like to do things because they can or just to try and see what it’s like. I’ve got an old Lodge and it’s great but all the new “artisanal” cast iron that a lot the reviewers are saying is better are smooth. So because Lodge is expensive and this won’t ruin it and because I like to play in my shop (and kitchen) I’m going to try it and see if it’s any better. That doesn’t mean I’m not bright just means I want to try something new.
Try, learn, repeat. Sounds good to me. :)
Nice video but i found that the factory finish on my new Lodge skillets was just fine. I was able to cook most foods including eggs without even reseasoning. The key is start with a preheated pan. I think all the extra work is great but just not for me. Thanks for a great video.
Thank you!
Great video, I have a lodge skillet as well and it just never cooks like my Griswold or Wagner. Now I know why. I will be doing this to my lodge soon. Looking forward to searing some nice steaks. Thank you for posting, I will let you know the outcome.
I'll look forward to hearing how that works! I'm pretty sure the metallurgy is the same, it's just a matter of whether you do the work or pay for them to do it for you. :)
Well
That DESTROYED PANS it call burnished them please don't do that to your pans
@@samueljohnson5397 Relax. They're talking about cheapo junky new pans, not the good quality old ones.
2:06 when he starts
yes i am that guy
I did this with a new Lodge pan in the garage without ventilation or a mask. Don't do that. I blew black crud and even rust out of my sinuses for several days. Wear a mask.
Completely agreed, thank you!
I did it by hand :) with a mask and worked amazing
@@dimmacommunication Excellent, great to hear!
A little iron never hurt anyone lol
@@joebenson528 but Black Lung disease does. Be careful!
To each is own. Ive tried this way and it was ok but it seemed like the oil had a hard time bonding to such a smoothe surface. I tried just using sand paper to take the pre seasoning all the way down but left a slightly rough finish. Then I seasoned it usings grapeseed oil by applying a layer and sticking it in my grill on full blast for an hour. Take it out, let it cool then do it again. I did this 4 times a day for a week. After that I put it on the stovetop on medium heat and cooked a chopped up onion and let it absorb any unwanted flavors out of the oil. I also use an onion to clean my grill. Now I can cook an egg on it and nothing sticks.
Awesome. If you can get the same result with less effort, count me in!
I'm a single apartment guy. Got a cast iron. I'm tired hand scrubbing with a metal scrub. I was thinking of getting an orbital (or mouse?) sander but it seems like you're using more hardcore tools (think I should probably still get eye wear and use my N95 for safety), but I can't use that. No hardware tools. Now I'm second guessing the tools since you seem to have something more hardcore tool wise (in the beginning). It doesn't look like a sander with the weird flap disk (?) assortment.
Definitely use the safety gear! You should be able to get it done with a sander, it might just take a little longer. Good luck!
So food in a smooth surface skillet tastes better than a rougher surface ????
I have a rough service Lodge.
No difference in flavor, just expected difference with regard to anti stick properties. Either way you get the benefits of cast iron.
so many videos about smoothing cast iron pan and equally many demonstrating that it isn't necessary
Not necessary at all, simply a choice.
You did better than me, l used a electric drill with Avanti pro quick-strip disc media, l still have a swirl marking.
Your oil is way too heavy!
I had been watching some metal working videos. One pan maker uses old automotive brake rotors.
Lodge, according to their website, uses fresh pig iron, with some scrap steel.
That sounds like an iteresting show, thanks. Nice to know some of that stuff can be recycled.
That sand texture is just fine. I have cast pans from 6" to 15" I use them for fish, omlettes, crepes, chili, you name it - - I use those pans. I do an oil polymerization before using each time I don't use fancy oils I use what I'm cooking with and NOTHING sticks - - - ever.
Very nice, thanks!
Most of my cast iron is older than dirt. I season them on occasion and nothing sticks. You have to know how to season your pan. Some are smooth due to age and other alittle bumpy. Cast iron can be your bestfriend in the kitchen.
👍
I did almost the same thing with the same skillet.
I didn't quite go down to bare iron but close. Also did it by hand which took longer but I don't have a grinder.
I use avacado oil instead of grapeseed but most oils will work as long as they have a higher smoke point.
Very nice - I hope it's providing you with delicious food!
Sweet 👍🏻 👍🏻
Thanks! 😁
A proper cast iron skillet will have nothing at all stuck to the bottom. And you can clean with a bit of water and rag.
Mmmm bacon smells good
It tastes good too! 😋
Get yourself a bacon press 👍
An egg would be nice to see on the pan! I have seen a few people test the pan by blowing under an egg on a skillet. If the egg comes up off the pan a bit, it’s a good season. Hope this helps!
A good idea, eggs are tricky/sticky!
Thanks for sharring, just wonder why the manufacturer doesn't already do it for us.
There are polished pans available from other manufacturers, but at a higher price point. Thank you!
They keep it rough to make it easier to pre-season while hanging on the assembly line. The other major manufacturers went out of business. This move to pre season saved Lodge’s business
I heard if you put the bacon in a cold pan then start heating, the bacon will stay flat and not curl up. I've yet to try it.
I've heard the same, lemme know if you try and it works.
@@JeffMarxWoodworking I'm almost ashamed to admit it, but I do mine on paper plates with paper towels in a microwave. Seems to get crispier and then just throw the plate in the trash outside, less stink in the house and easy cleanup. But someday I plan on trying it and you'll be the first to know. Lol...
If I want less hassle and dirt who might I pay to grind and polish my Lodge ? Advise.
Good question, I don't have any good suggestions - sorry.
Marx sounds crazy all do respect
It’s called fire scale. Most use DA sander with 80 grit pads. Don’t work great in corners tho.
Let it set in vinegar for a day to open pores and texture metal to accept seasoning. You can always do it again after your seasoning flakes off.
You are supposed to raise temp above smoke pout for seasoning. Grape seed oil is 420. Most take it to 500. Should fry potatoes first, the starch builds base.
Thank you!
Awesome👍🏽
Thank you, much appreciated!
Why doesn't lodge offer a smooth, already sanded skillet ?
Some other brands do, but the extra machining is pretty expensive. It's debatable as to whether it makes a difference with regard to its non-stick performance.
I splurged on a polished cast iron wok this spring, and it is an absolute dream to cook with. My previous experience with cast iron was a disaster,, but now I know why.
Even though it turns out beautifully every time - even in a camper oven! - it feels weird making skillet cornbread in a wok. I'm going to get a Lodge and make this one of my winter projects. Think I can pull it off just using drill attachments, and not use a grinder?
Thats great to hear! It's probably much faster with a grinder, but drill/sander/hand sanding should also work. Good luck, and happy cooking!
@@JeffMarxWoodworking Thanks so much! I'm excited to get started! I saw one after this that had been done entirely by hand, so it's encouraging to know that it is definitely possible without a grinder.
@@lisakukla459 Make sure you wear good dust protection, you definitely don't want to breathe this stuff!
Win win Jeff. Thank you
Thank YOU!
The darkness came from the soot in the oil fire as it's carbon that gives a cure its darkened color. High smoke point oils like grape seed and flax will more readily polymerize without as much soot hence their lighter, harder initial bronze like finish. Eventually they'll end up dark from use as the cure builds more layers infused with more soot prone animal fats and soot from higher heat use like searing. If you want that traditional dark look from the initial, unused cure while using a high smoke point oil then you simply have to cure it the traditional way over a fire around 450-500 degrees (Webers work well for this). The soot from the fire will supply the carbon and you'll end up with something that has a darker initial cure.
Great information. Thanks for sharing it with us Josh!
The fire is what you want to avoid as it creates ash and soot rather than carbonizing the existing polymerized oil layer. However, the high heat caused by the fire likely gave him the carbonizing effect that makes cast iron so useful. Carbon is very slick and hard and that's what we're after in seasoning pans.
Good video, I was just wondering how your finish has held up after more than a year? Any flaking off?
There hasn't been any flaking or spalling of the seasoning coating. I really need to use it more than I have and it should just keep getting better. Thank you for watching and asking!
Damn good job Sir
Thank you!
A bacon press would be helpful to get nice flat evenly cooked strips. I have a new pan and am ready to go.
Go get it! :)
Good luck, I hope your new pan is awesome!
They need a round press the same size of the inside of the pan.
Grit order:
Quick-strip disk, 40, 60, 80, 100-400
UPDATE: Followed your instructions and brought my Lodge up to snuff within 2 days. It now fully resists sticking as much as Teflon but without the toxic side effects. Eggs and omelet do not stick - is this magic ?
Recently found a 100+ year old Wagner, buried in the ground and completely rusted up.....took off a ton of surface rust already, but there is substantial pitting, so I'm going to have to grind it substantially to even it out at the very least........no matter WHAT people say on RUclips....sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do.
My big problem is, that this skillet is like 1/2 the thickness of most modern brands, leaving very little room for errant overgrinding....😬🙏😬🙏🙏😅😅🙏🙏
Very nice! Just take it slow and be careful and I'm sure there's plenty of metal there.
@@JeffMarxWoodworking - Thanks! Still soaking in lye water a few more days...🙏🙏🙏
Question: After grinding and sanding, how did you clean the pan before seasoning? The problem I have is surface rust after cleaning and rinsing. TIA
Just a quick wipe with denatured alcohol is all you need. Good luck, and thanks for watching and commenting!
I've always been curious about this. How it would affect the end result of a cast iron pan if it were first taken down to a really smooth polished state before seasoning. I've also considered the same about those big blackstone style griddles. Cool video. Looks like it passed the bacon test.
Yes, the critical bacon test was a success! It's been great with everything I've thrown at it so far - very happy. Thanks for watching and commenting. I don't have any experience with Blackstone griddles but they look like something worth experimenting with.
Cast iron and carbon steel are very similar, and there will be almost no difference between smooth cast iron and carbon steel pans in terms of performance. I believe you can find a lot of test results for carbon steel on RUclips.
@@alanshawn3058 Thank you!
I do this with my Lodge pans. I have an older Wagner Ware/Sydney pan I got from my grandfather and guess what? It has a much smoother surface finish than the newer Lodge stuff. He left me a no-name square skillet that is the same way.
I think that the rough "bad road" texture Lodge uses allows the iron to poke above the carbon layer that normally makes cast iron so useful. That hard, slick carbon layer is what makes it non-stick and having a bumpy surface means the carbon layer breaks and doesn't evenly cover. By smoothing it down flat, you leave enough surface area for the carbon layer to form, and have it smooth enough to give that carbon layer a fighting chance at forming and growing. If it's rough, the hot iron pokes above and stick to every protein it touches...which sucks if that protein is an over-easy egg you're hoping to eat.
@@alanshawn3058 Doesn't hurt that cast iron is a high carbon alloy. It has a higher carbon content than high carbon steel.
If you into steak, try a seven bone steak. Get it as hot as you can. Salt the bottom of the skillet like the steak and throw the steak on top of it. For a 3/4-1" steak, cook 3 minutes both sides I think. It comes out good.
7-bone comes off the front leg/shoulder. Around here it tastes better than any prime steak and may be a little chewey, but good. I'd imagine it could be modified some.
Also, get a heavy flat weight as other cast iron and set on top your steaks while they cook. It alters it in a good way. Meat is kind of lighter.
Sounds great, thanks for the tip! I've become a big fan of sous vide for steaks followed by a trip over really hot cast iron.
@@JeffMarxWoodworking oh, don't put the heavy weights on the steak in the above until you know how it tastes as is. Where the added weight forces heat into the meat and might burn it rather than well seared. Also, have the 7-bone room temp.
I like sprinkling black pepper but only do outside. 😂Lol, I like to sear black pepper and cayenne, but inside, just imagine inhaling pepper spray while breathing. Pepper tastes better seared in, But DO NOT DO INSIDE, ONLY OUTSIDE😂.
@@Noone-rt6pw Yummy!
Great video!
Thank you, I really appreciate it!
Who did your branding iron? It’s pretty cool. Txs 🙌🏻🙏🏻
Thanks! It's from brandingirons.com. you just send them an image file and they make it for you. You can get electric as I did, or one you heat w a torch. I actually have two sizes now as the first one was so good.
I guess if you prefer the looks of a smooth skillet, this is a good idea. The skillet was already non stick when it was new tho. The texture has zero to do with whether food sticks or not.
You're right - it's really all about the seasoning!
It must be the Big Algorithm, because I just bought those flap disks for my angle grinder a few days ago, before even *thinking* about using it on some of my old lodge pans.
But if you are using an angle grinder, make sure you use a face shield. Those grinders spin at 13,000 RPM and the disks can break. I would also recommend keeping the guard on for the same reason.
If you don't have an angle grinder, you can use a regular old orbital sander. You probably won't get it as smooth, but you can still make a big improvement over the original surface.
But I really came here for the seasoning advice. I'll have to try your trick with the grapeseed oil and seasoning on the grill! Thanks!
Thanks for the safety suggestions and good luck with your seasoning!
@@JeffMarxWoodworking I just completed my first try. Years ago I got into Lodge cast irons in order to buy pans that were made in the USA. It didn't take long to realize that it was easier to clean than all of those made in China pots.
So I picked up a Lodge cast iron, and it has been a mainstay for gumbo and chili ever since. The top get used almost daily for eggs and grilled cheese and such.
But the dutch oven has always been rather rough. So I decided to clean it up.
For my first project, I just wanted to clean it up a bit. So I just used the orbital sander and cleaned it up enough so I could see some bare metal, and cleaned up peeling seasoning on the side walls. I wore a mask because iron dust isn't really something I want to breath.
After sanding, I cleaned it with an SOS pad and dried it on the stove, before seasoning it with the grapeseed oil (thanks for the tip!). After one seasoning, this thing is like Teflon! I fried some hot dogs in it and they didn't stick at all. And cleanup afterwards took about 5 seconds with a brush. I'm going to have to do this to all of my cast iron pans!
@@eloscuro704 Fantastic, so glad I was able to be helpful! Thanks for watching, following along, and commenting.
Keeping the guard on an angle grinder is like swearing an oath to the Communist Party.😜😜
Always use ammonia when restoring and cleaning a rusty old cast iron or carbon steel pan it's how they put the bluing on the pan that black/blie isn't "seasoning" its a layer of special oxidation that is a reaction the ammonia causes that protects the metal and makes it more able to take the seasoning...its the same method they used to blue gun barrels back then! Using the grinder took all the oxidation off the outside of the pan and it will never season properly if you don't restore it!
Thank you
I just bought a lodge cast iron skillet and I don’t know what to do. Should I wash it first with soap and water? Also it’s pre seasoned! I hear grape seed oil is good for seasoning. What should I do? I hear vegetable oil and canola are not healthy oils. Is grapeseed oil good for seasoning? What should I use?
The skillet comes preseasoned, you don't really need to do anything with it if you don't want to. Proper care with cooking over time will continually refresh the seasoning. If it ever wears off, you can reseason, and grapeseed oil is a great choice. If you prefer you pan smoother, you can follow a procedure similar to what I showed here.
@@JeffMarxWoodworking I have one more question! When I wipe my cast iron with paper towel or towel after cooking and cleaning. The entire paper towel is black! What is this black residue? Like the entire towel is black after wiping it including my fingers! Is this black stuff safe? The skillet is only a week old and I’ve cooked on it 3x. Is this normal?
@@priestlygarments4004 I'm not sure. I'd give it a slightly more aggressive cleaning just not using anything abrasive that might take off the seasoning. Good luck, I hope you can sort that out.
@@priestlygarments4004 If you clean it initially when bought, I wouldn’t worry about anything else after that. It could even be some seasoning/carbonized oil that was physically scraped off by your utensils.
New cast iron pans and pots aren't made like the old good ones. Some no matter how much you cook and season it it's not going to get smooth. Just like everything else made today it's not like the good old days. If you have old cast iron products you are truly blessed. Hang on to them and pass the them to people who actually care. Not the people who run around saying " Lets go!"
There is also some excellent quality new cast iron cookware available, but like everything in life the good stuff is expensive. I'm generally a believer like you that sometimes older products are worth putting some love into and you'll end up with something that your grandkids can enjoy some day. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Absolutely! Im going to use your method on a few I have for sure!
How did the seasoning process hold up for that pan? Did it ever start flaking the seasoning off? Thanks!
It's holding up great so far. I try to treat it properly to maintain the seasoning as best I can each time I use it. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Just curious, did you clean the freshly sanded surface with anything before seasoning or did you just sand and then season?
Guessing he gave it a good wash.
Are high end cast iron frying pans really any better than Lodge brand pans?
I don't have any experience to speak from. I love my old pan. 🙂
What’s with the grape seed/flaxseed oil fad…………? I asked my great granny and she just laughed😄
Yeah, they did pretty well (like in awesome) with whatever good cooking fat they had. You can skip this whole process and just cook a bunch of bacon, which seems like a good idea anyway.
Did you wash the pan after you sanded it down and before you put it on your grill to preheat and oil up?
I cleaned it up with denatured alcohol to make sure there wasn't anything unpleasant captured under the seasoning. Thank you!
What model angle grinder is that and did you have to remove the protective cover like the one I have over my spinning wheel?
It's a WEN angle grinder which is a budget brand with (in my opinion) decent quality. I didn't need to, and perhaps shouldn't have removed the guard. Thank you for watching and commenting!!!
Hello! I grind the pan with machine so it turn back to silver color.
I did seasoned the pan with gas stove but the color changed to brown not black.
How do i get black color again? Can i get the black color back if i season the pan with oven at high temperature?
The seasoning process works best with multiple thin coats and several cycles. My understanding is that ~450 degrees F or 232 C is the ideal temperature if you're using grapeseed oil. ou need to get above it's smoke temperature to cause it to polymerize. Good luck!
@@JeffMarxWoodworking thank you for reply!
I used seasoning wax(beez wax) and did 4 times. I noticed that i didn’t cool down the pan after seasoning. I just kept spreading the wax after the smoke disappear.
I will try the seasoning the pan with your advice and i will let you the result!
Once again thank you sooooo much and happy new year!
Perfect, I plan to grind my new lodge 12” and my grill always catches on fire so I’m set.
Hah, perfect! Good luck.
Hey, sorry if this is a silly question. 400 grit seems insanely smooth, did you have any issues getting the seasoning to stick? Is there any advantage (and/or downside) to stopping at say, 180 or 220, or did you find it worthwhile to go all the way to 400?
In any case, the pan looks great and that crazy temp spike you mentioned didn't seem to do it any harm. Cheers!
Thank you Adam! The Lodge pans work great without doing anything to the original cast surface. I think you could likely polish to whatever degree you choose (higher or lower) and it will work great and the seasoning will adhere well. I appreciate your watching and commenting! Jeff
Just buy Le Creuset cast iron and there’s no need to do the sanding. Hi quality pans.
Way too much oil. What you have in your skillet is partially polymerized, sticky gunk. Real patina feels smooth (like glass) and dry to the touch.
To get the oil to polymerize completely, it has to be applied in thin layers. Wipe the skillet with oil and make sure everything is covered. Then use a clean towel (!) and wipe it all off again as if you were trying to get it completely dry again. The skillet then shouldn't look soaky wet like in the video, but only have a matte, silky shine and feel dry to the touch. Then put it into the oven or BBQ at a temperature above the smoking point of your oil for an hour. Repeat the process two more times and the skillet is ready for use. When applying the first layer of oil, you will feel the metal surface absorb quite some oil. With each additional layer, you will notice the surface being 'saturated' and requiring less oil. It also helps to apply the oil to a warm skillet.
Thank you for the tips, much appreciated.
Bernie M I just watched Martha's video and she likes to use Crisco lard. Martha rules! :)
2 passes and it blackened?
Yes, mostly black with a decent film of seasoning. I've had a number of people commenting that I put on too much oil, perhaps more thinner coats would have been better. Thank you!
@@JeffMarxWoodworking Thank you for answering. I bought a used beautiful pan and it has a silver spot on it, seasoning it now for the first after scrubbing. Hoping on the second pass it'll be as nice as your's. Thanks for responding, I really appreciate that.
@@cefarther3945 good luck, I hope that becomes a beautiful and classic part of your cooking arsenal!
@@cefarther3945 You're too kind, but I really appreciate it!
I ordered something that had rave reviews called Crisbee Stik that is used for seasoning, was before i saw your awesome video. Do you think i should ditch that and get grapeseed oil instead…it was 15 bucks this stuff but it contains soybean oil, beeswax, and palm oil. Thanks
I'm not familiar with that product, it might be great - I don't know. Most of the research I did pointed me toward grapeseed oil. Like most things, there are likely multiple workable solutions. Best of luck, I hope you get years of good use out of your cast iron!
@@JeffMarxWoodworking yup, very true! And i got a new 12” cast iron and a new 12” carbon steel french style pan. Cant wait to get some good use out of them
@@JeffMarxWoodworking thanks for the reply
@@Orr_s 👍
Yes your temperature was too low. At least 400 F is recommend for a good bond and blacking. The fact your temperature spiked up 700 F is what gave you the blackening but it might of burnt the oil....so you might have a burnt up oil bond.
Thank you!
@@JeffMarxWoodworking update. I recommend crisco shortening at 400 f and you'll get a real nice seasoning if you want to try it sometime.
@@sirsir9665 Thank you!
Do you think the higher temps you accidentally went to during your seasoning process actually helped seasoning process? I’m struggling to get the seasoning to stay on my smooth cast iron.
I don't think so from what I've researched but it's certainly possible. More cycles with use seems to be the ticket long term.
@@JeffMarxWoodworking thanks for the quick response. I’ve been using Crisco, but I’m gonna try grape seed oil as I have heard it has the same hard qualities as flaxseed oil but doesn’t flake as easy.
@@DJ-Coma I hope that works better for you!
Use grapeseed oil and just keep repeating the process. Each skillet is different as is each stove. Keep at it, you'll get it.
@@Ahriman_II yes. Grapeseed and go to a higher temp...about 450 for 45 mins or so each round. Also not sanding to a very smooth surface helps. Keep some texture but just take off the high rougher peaks.
Good job till you seasoned it. Maybe watch a few vids on how to do it correctly.
Thanks for the tip
Why sand it down? What does it do?
My intention was to improve it's non-stick properties because of the smoother surface vs. the sand casting roughness. Thanks for watching and for the question!
what is the cheapest tool to use if your not into woodworking
It's really a function of what project you want to start with. When I got started, I would often buy a new tool to allow me to do each new project.
Also, there are lots of gently used woodworking tools available in the used market either online or at local yard/flea sales, etc.
Have you had any issues with the re-seasoned surface coming off after cleaning?
I haven't to this point. It's important to be gentle with cleaning (no abrasive cleanser) and always consider any cooking operation as an opportunity for re-seasoning. Proper seasoning improves over time and is comprised of a lot of very thin layers rather than one thick one.
@@JeffMarxWoodworking cool. I'd like to do this myself. I like the idea of having a cast iron pan as an heirloom item. Should last forever.
@@xJAWAx They not only last essentially forever but are one of the few items in life that actually improve with use. Good luck!
You DESTROYED THAT PAN BY DOING THAT TO IT
How's that? I've been thinking about doing it to my new pan as the rough texture finish it came with feels horrible and doesn't seem particularly non stick
Was there a reason you started cooking your bacon with a hot pan? I was told to start bacon with a cold pan so it renders better?
If you can fit it all in at once then go ahead and start w a cold pan. I've done both and not found much of a difference. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@JeffMarxWoodworking Thanks for the reply and the content. I resurfaced both of my Lodge's as well. I just used an orbital sander with 80 grit then 140.
@@LeonardCartersureshotfoto Thank you - how did that turn out?
@@JeffMarxWoodworking It turned out wonderfully. I seasoned them with flax seed oil in a 500-degree oven for an hour then cooled for 2 hours. I did this 3 times before cooking in them and they are working great.
so the video just ends with no conclusion if your work worked?
It worked great, sorry if that was unclear. I thought bacon was a happy ending to any story. 😁
@@JeffMarxWoodworking Bacon is a great ending, but we are all curious about the cleanup and how much if anything was a little stuck on the pan. I have just stripped and re-seasoned a 60ish year old skillet and I still have a little bacon sticking to it.
@@jeffbates6759 Good question: There was zero sticking, and that's mosly been the case for everything else I've done in it since including sous vide steaks. It would be great to compare side by side with an off-the-shelf pan to see how different they are. I know that well seasoned and maintained cast iron can perform like a champ even without this extra effort.
Can I just you send you my dutch oven and pots to do? I don't have all those tools.
Geez - you can just knuckle down for several hundred hours of hand sanding, you don't need my help or any power tools. :)
@@JeffMarxWoodworking haha
The "rough" texture of a Lodge pan is IMO, more non-stick than a smooth pan. This may seem counter-intuitive, but I'll put a modern Lodge pan against ANY smooth cast iron pan. I have smooth antique Wagners and Griswolds and many, many cast iron pans of various eras and manufacture. I know of what I speak. Don't get me wrong, I love my old smooth pans, but resurfacing "rough" to smooth with the idea that they'll be more "nonstick" is just incorrect. You do a nice job of it though!
Thank you!
Dear God, please use metal utensils going forward 🤣
Hah! Thank you for commenting.
Women are so adorable! "Garage"! Sure honey!
😁
Waay too much oil. Put it on, then wipe off well, leaving a very thin film.
Thank you!
jeff, doing great stuff here! Just,,,,, sound engineer the volume of the cover music a bit please. your voice is at 10 db, and the cover music( really not needed) is at 20!. and may I suggest a little less techno and maybe some epic battle chant/ forging the dwarven armor like "duelyst" or "iron man building Mark 1 one hour loop" as background/cover music. : )
Thank you Tammy! I'm still working on my audio/video editing skills and appreciate any and all suggestions. Jeff
This seems so unnecessary as the reward is just not there. A disk sander seems to be far too much tool as it really takes slot of material
Thanks for sharing your perspective.
My comment sounded real negative but I didn't mean it like that. There have been many cast iron polishers and the results compared to a well seasoned unfinished surfaces to indicate that it's not worth all the work. I do love a shiny cast iron surface though.
All good, thanks! @@locker1325
Bacon?? Do eggs
I did. Hard to beat eggs fried in bacon grease - am I right?
Of course the bacon didn't stick, it contains a ton of fat. Let's see you fry a egg on that shiny new surface.
Very true and why it's so delicious! I've done steaks and other things with equal success.
"Of course the bacon didn't stick, it contains a ton of fat."
Bacon tends to stick in spite of all the fat. Try cooking it in a stainless steel pan for example, or an unseasoned (or ill-seasoned) cast iron pan. You'll have some stuck-on bacon residue to clean up afterwards for sure.
"Let's see you fry a egg on that shiny new surface."
Eggs on the other hand are very easy to fry without sticking; all you need to do is coat the cooking surface with e.g., butter, and they won't stick, not even on stainless steel. I always fry eggs in 1 tablespoon of butter in an 11" 304 stainless steel electric skillet at 300 degrees F, and they slide around the pan as if they were on wet ice.
Way too much oil!
Yes. More thinner layers would have been better, thank you!
@@JeffMarxWoodworking wipe it with a lent free cloth after you oil it. Too much oil will cause it to puddle and get sticky. Your food will taste like burnt oil.
That bacon was way to undercooked after seeing the bacon at the end I realize I just lost 10 min of my life…
The bacon was undercooked to your standards. That bacon was on point! I’m not sure how you were raised, but it looks like you enjoy food well done.
This doesn't make any difference in performance. It is a waste of time. He should have done eggs...
Actually it makes a great difference most of my cooking is done on cast iron.
Smoothing a brand new Lodge Cast Iron is absolutely unnecessary! I have seared meats in my 12" rough LODGE CI with no problems at all.
Thank you.
Really just depends on what you want out of your cast iron.
@@TheQ2-4-1 exactly! It's all good, and there are many right answers.
Eggs and salmon are a disaster
Turned off when music started-------Cecil B. De Mille you are not------instructions are all that I turned in for
People who are doing this to cast iron cookware aren't really the brightest tools in the shed. What do they think we did all these decades? Nobody sanded or ground down our cast iron. Y'all are ridiculous.
I'm with you on this one Shirley. I have a set of three cast iron pans and I've never sanded them down. I seasoned them all a couple of times and then just used them, the texture soon smooths itself out with use and I've never had anything stick in them. Best wishes from the UK
Look at the old cookeware compared to modern. The reason they didn't do this in the past is because most were made much smoother in the past and it wasn't needed. Thinking people are ridiculous simply for having an opinion that differs from yours is... well... ridiculous. Do a search on youtube. There are literally hundreds and hundreds of videos of people trying to get modern Lodge cast iron to be like old cast iron used to be. The reason people like vintage cast iron is because it is smooth. Field, butterpat, stargazer, finex and others all grind the natural texture left by the sand mold away to make it smooth, while Lodge, and other less expensive manufacturers do not. You prefer cheaply made things. We get it. As for your "Brightest tool in the shed".. LMAO. Might want to not poke fun at others' intelligence when yours is so blatantly showing. Sharpest tool maybe? Brightest light maybe? Meh... brightest tool is close enough, right? lol.
Old cast iron is smooth as glass, you imbecile.
@@trbig67 Steve Wood is right. Tooling a smooth finish on CI cookware is a waste of time and makes the seasoning process trickier and even more time-consuming. A Lodge pan will be become smooth with proper seasoning and normal usage. The number of misguided people making RUclips videos does not change the facts.
@@spaceman51974 My Lodge cast iron is as smooth as glass, too, and I didn't grind it. I just cooked with it. It smoother with use. Now it is bulletproof. I think those who grind perfectly good CI cookware are misguided, but I don not consider them to be imbeciles. OTOH, there is spaceman51974...
You play with your bacon way too much, how about you just let it cook?
The fats breakdown into oils and it deep fries in its own oils. You don't have to turn it every 10 seconds 🤷♂️
Seasoning.. I actually use lard. I know everyone is against that. But I've been using cast iron for 30 years in my eggs float on the surface.
Lard yes, that comes from a pig. Kind of like that bacon you're cooking. Everyone has their opinion flaxseed oil etc. It's fun to see an interest again in cast iron. I Have a good collection of mostly old. The complete Lodge set to.