Shearwater Teric, Perdix AI, Perdix 2, and Petrel 3 dive computers (now) can pair with 4 transmitters. You can set the identifier to: T1~4 (Tank or Transmitter, standard setting) S1~4 (Sidemount) O1~4 (Oxygen, usually set to O2) D1~4 (Diluent) B1~4 (Bailout, a B0 would've been nice but isn't available) Other than identifying the transmitter, it doesn't alter the functionality.
The Suunto EONs can connect multiple transmitters but they still don't display them at the same time as is possible with Shearwater. You still have to swap manually between them to view the pressures, and for that data to therefore be driving the other computer functions, and it takes about 10 seconds.
thanks for the computer sidemount mode answer.. I've just been reserching the same thing and got confused also. It would be great if such features were highlighted in the descriptions on your shop. Cheers
#AskMark Hey Mark, what are your thoughts on twinsets for recreational diving and how would you suggest going about learning how to use a twinset safely and properly?
#askmark Hi Mark, My partner and I both dive BPW - Apeks WTX and Mares XR. Both wings have exterior shells protecting the bladder. My question is: How often should we be washing the interior of the exterior shell (if that makes sense) beyond the post dive soak? Should we unzip them and give it a wipe or slosh around? I don’t really want to be exposing the bladder more than necessary, if at all necessary. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge and experience. Doug #askmark
It's a good idea to at least inspect the inside of the outer layer from time to time. Salt buildup can occur, and that might end up damaging your bladder, just like it can when salt builds up inside the bladder. I wouldn't worry too much about "exposing" the bladder. The bladder is pretty tough. Just be careful when zipping the shell back up to not get the bladder caught in the zipper. If that ever happened to your own outer layer when zipping up, you know how much that hurts and how much damage it can cause.
Wow I was just watching, & was so shocked when you answered my question I asked the other week! Thanks, I've seen that many videos I think I had it covered, haha cheers though, & very good independent answer!
Shearwater will allow up to 4 transmitters to be displayed simultaneously on all AI compatible computers with recent firmware update :) Release notes on their website (under manuals links) lists all the features added over the years.
#askmark thanks for your answer, I just thought there were a kind of allrounder DSMB, but it would make sense, to got a 3m one if you would dive somewhere like the Pacific Ocean. I guess I would get something around 140 cm.
#AskMark Hey Mark, while answering the question about regulator issues with a longer hose (which you said there weren't) you didn't address why you dive with a 2 meter long hose. I'm curious why that is? Pros/Cons. Love the channel! Thanks
Pros: - A 2 meter long hose gives you more space when donating air. A regular octo is 90 cm, which makes donating air a very close-up and intimate experience. Not something you want with a panicked diver. - When diving in overhead environments, your buddy can swim single file while on your air, making it a lot easier to maneuver through tight spaces. - The 2 meter hose is your primary regulator, which means you know it works before you donate it. After all, you've been breathing from it the entire dive. A yellow hose octo often gets neglected by the owner. Beyond maybe a quick purge check, they often don't test if it's working properly. - Some divers (unknowingly) have their octo hanging loose and dragging behind them. They may drag it through sand, silt, or coral, damaging the reef or clogging the regulator. With a long hose, you're breathing from the regulator with the longest hose. Your alternate air is on a short hose, on a necklace. - Finding your alternate air in an emergency is easier with a long hose, because it's on a necklace beneath your chin. When you accidentally drop your primary, you know where your alternate is. You can start breathing from your alternate before recovering your primary. - A long hose configuration (usually) uses two identical second stages. Unlike an octo configuration, where the octo is often an inferior version. You are relying on the alternate to keep you safe. It's better when it's performing as well as your primary. Cons: - The long hose is non-standard. You will need to inform your buddy (if it's the first time diving together) what it is, and how it works in an out-of-gas emergency. - The long hose needs to be routed properly, and it will take some practice to make it second nature. You need to make sure it can't float away out of your control, and that it doesn't get trapped behind other gear. If you route any hose, cable, or line over your long hose, you won't be able to donate it to your buddy. - A long hose setup is heavier than a normal regulator setup. Long hoses are often rubber because rubber is negatively buoyant, which means it stays where you put it. If you're putting together a lightweight setup, a long hose will put a serious dent in your luggage allowance. - A long hose setup is more expensive. You'll likely need to select all the individual parts together yourself (though you can ask your dive store to put it together for you). If you're buying a complete long hose setup, they're going to be made with the premium range regulators from that brand. To me, the pros far outweigh the cons, but running a long hose setup does require a serious investment of both time and money. You'll need to put some effort into research, routing, compatibility, and training. If you're considering getting into technical diving a long hose setup is a must have, but that doesn't mean it's only for technical divers. It's also very well suited for recreational divers. Another benefit is that it's a setup that's pretty much capable of matching up with any style of diving. Whether it's single back mount, double back mount, sidemount, stage cylinders, cave diving, wreck diving, or technical diving. The setup may need to be tweaked a little here and there, like adding an extra SPG and/or first stage, and connecting hoses to different ports.
You are correct that Ratio has the sidemount monitoring, and did it years before Shearwater.
Shearwater Teric, Perdix AI, Perdix 2, and Petrel 3 dive computers (now) can pair with 4 transmitters.
You can set the identifier to:
T1~4 (Tank or Transmitter, standard setting)
S1~4 (Sidemount)
O1~4 (Oxygen, usually set to O2)
D1~4 (Diluent)
B1~4 (Bailout, a B0 would've been nice but isn't available)
Other than identifying the transmitter, it doesn't alter the functionality.
Garmin Descent MK2 can do two computers as well.
The Suunto EONs can connect multiple transmitters but they still don't display them at the same time as is possible with Shearwater. You still have to swap manually between them to view the pressures, and for that data to therefore be driving the other computer functions, and it takes about 10 seconds.
thanks for the computer sidemount mode answer.. I've just been reserching the same thing and got confused also. It would be great if such features were highlighted in the descriptions on your shop. Cheers
He is correct that the Ratio does it, and has in fact that has been doing it for longer than Shearwater
#AskMark Hey Mark, what are your thoughts on twinsets for recreational diving and how would you suggest going about learning how to use a twinset safely and properly?
That's actually a good question
Scubapro G2 does sidemount as well.
#askmark
Hi Mark,
My partner and I both dive BPW - Apeks WTX and Mares XR. Both wings have exterior shells protecting the bladder.
My question is:
How often should we be washing the interior of the exterior shell (if that makes sense) beyond the post dive soak? Should we unzip them and give it a wipe or slosh around?
I don’t really want to be exposing the bladder more than necessary, if at all necessary.
Thanks again for sharing your knowledge and experience.
Doug
#askmark
It's a good idea to at least inspect the inside of the outer layer from time to time. Salt buildup can occur, and that might end up damaging your bladder, just like it can when salt builds up inside the bladder.
I wouldn't worry too much about "exposing" the bladder. The bladder is pretty tough. Just be careful when zipping the shell back up to not get the bladder caught in the zipper. If that ever happened to your own outer layer when zipping up, you know how much that hurts and how much damage it can cause.
Wow I was just watching, & was so shocked when you answered my question I asked the other week! Thanks, I've seen that many videos I think I had it covered, haha cheers though, & very good independent answer!
Aqualung i770r has the capability of tracking multiple cylinders. I haven't tried it but I think it's capable of monitoring 4-5 at a time.
I like your videos. One a week will just suck.
Shearwater will allow up to 4 transmitters to be displayed simultaneously on all AI compatible computers with recent firmware update :)
Release notes on their website (under manuals links) lists all the features added over the years.
#askmark thanks for your answer, I just thought there were a kind of allrounder DSMB, but it would make sense, to got a 3m one if you would dive somewhere like the Pacific Ocean.
I guess I would get something around 140 cm.
#AskMark Hey Mark, while answering the question about regulator issues with a longer hose (which you said there weren't) you didn't address why you dive with a 2 meter long hose. I'm curious why that is? Pros/Cons. Love the channel! Thanks
Makes it easier when you're sharing your regulator with your buddy
Pros:
- A 2 meter long hose gives you more space when donating air. A regular octo is 90 cm, which makes donating air a very close-up and intimate experience. Not something you want with a panicked diver.
- When diving in overhead environments, your buddy can swim single file while on your air, making it a lot easier to maneuver through tight spaces.
- The 2 meter hose is your primary regulator, which means you know it works before you donate it. After all, you've been breathing from it the entire dive. A yellow hose octo often gets neglected by the owner. Beyond maybe a quick purge check, they often don't test if it's working properly.
- Some divers (unknowingly) have their octo hanging loose and dragging behind them. They may drag it through sand, silt, or coral, damaging the reef or clogging the regulator. With a long hose, you're breathing from the regulator with the longest hose. Your alternate air is on a short hose, on a necklace.
- Finding your alternate air in an emergency is easier with a long hose, because it's on a necklace beneath your chin. When you accidentally drop your primary, you know where your alternate is. You can start breathing from your alternate before recovering your primary.
- A long hose configuration (usually) uses two identical second stages. Unlike an octo configuration, where the octo is often an inferior version. You are relying on the alternate to keep you safe. It's better when it's performing as well as your primary.
Cons:
- The long hose is non-standard. You will need to inform your buddy (if it's the first time diving together) what it is, and how it works in an out-of-gas emergency.
- The long hose needs to be routed properly, and it will take some practice to make it second nature. You need to make sure it can't float away out of your control, and that it doesn't get trapped behind other gear. If you route any hose, cable, or line over your long hose, you won't be able to donate it to your buddy.
- A long hose setup is heavier than a normal regulator setup. Long hoses are often rubber because rubber is negatively buoyant, which means it stays where you put it. If you're putting together a lightweight setup, a long hose will put a serious dent in your luggage allowance.
- A long hose setup is more expensive. You'll likely need to select all the individual parts together yourself (though you can ask your dive store to put it together for you). If you're buying a complete long hose setup, they're going to be made with the premium range regulators from that brand.
To me, the pros far outweigh the cons, but running a long hose setup does require a serious investment of both time and money. You'll need to put some effort into research, routing, compatibility, and training.
If you're considering getting into technical diving a long hose setup is a must have, but that doesn't mean it's only for technical divers. It's also very well suited for recreational divers. Another benefit is that it's a setup that's pretty much capable of matching up with any style of diving. Whether it's single back mount, double back mount, sidemount, stage cylinders, cave diving, wreck diving, or technical diving. The setup may need to be tweaked a little here and there, like adding an extra SPG and/or first stage, and connecting hoses to different ports.
Garmin MK2i & MK3i do sidemount.