Yeah they don't mention how the shim is designed. I would assume the V notch is the lowest point of the shim and the opposite side of the shim is sized for the 0.006 thou of an inch thickness. Seems like all they are doing is applying 6 thou to the opposite side to bring the total runout back in balance.
You really don't need those. Just tighten your lugs down backwards (flats facing the rotor). If you have fancy lugs, you can buy 4-5 std ones for this purpose.
it doesn't need to be some conical washer as we are not aligning anything to a hub. We just need to press the rotor against the hub flange, so any set of washers from a hardware store will do, or a one size bigger nuts.
I ground the back of the rotor where it mounts against the hub with an angle grinder, just the area where it was reading high. Since I'm only adjusting thousandths of inch I wasn't worried about the reduced thickness.
Most hubs are pressed and charge 1 hour of labor roughly 100 bucks not including the replacement wheel bearing and hub. You will spend over 300 bucks replacing a bent hub because you cannot reuse the old bearing in most cars since it's pressed and comes apart when removed... These shims are too correct moderate runnout without making you spend a small fortune on a cheap car.
Mr EXACTLY, think about it, not all vibration is caused by hubs/drive flanges having run out, if your discs are to blame skimming will correct it, FOR A WHILE, as you have now introduced DTV into the disc it will return. In my nearly 40 years experience working on cars I have learned GM suffer massively from this, ford is next, the last hub flange I skimmed had 10 thou, 0.25mm run out, imagine that by the time it's amplified by the diameter of the disc, once skimmed end of problem
check on amazon for open ended lug nuts for your vehicle. you can buy them cheap compared to those kits they sell . Once you buy them you can reuse them for any brake job in your future.
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This should not exist. It's a bandaid for the real problem. Crap parts bents flange warped rotor.
I would never do this.
Garbage Chinese Rotors and that's why I buy OEM Rotors from the dealership
I'm assuming the correction shim is not the same thickness around its total diameter?
Yeah they don't mention how the shim is designed. I would assume the V notch is the lowest point of the shim and the opposite side of the shim is sized for the 0.006 thou of an inch thickness. Seems like all they are doing is applying 6 thou to the opposite side to bring the total runout back in balance.
Wow.
Would a stack of two or three nylon washers work in place of conical washers?
Where do I get these "conical washers" mentioned at 0:43? For example, what is the part number for a 2006 Jeep Wrangler TJ?
I found mine on ebay Kent-Moore J-45101-100
@@CoolAirVw Wow, they sure are expensive.
You really don't need those. Just tighten your lugs down backwards (flats facing the rotor). If you have fancy lugs, you can buy 4-5 std ones for this purpose.
it doesn't need to be some conical washer as we are not aligning anything to a hub. We just need to press the rotor against the hub flange, so any set of washers from a hardware store will do, or a one size bigger nuts.
I ground the back of the rotor where it mounts against the hub with an angle grinder, just the area where it was reading high. Since I'm only adjusting thousandths of inch I wasn't worried about the reduced thickness.
been doing this for 15+ years and I didn't even know this was an option
You and me both
Seems llike the red number are mm, NOT 0.001" as the narrator says.
Brake Masters doesn't do this...
Most hubs are pressed and charge 1 hour of labor roughly 100 bucks not including the replacement wheel bearing and hub. You will spend over 300 bucks replacing a bent hub because you cannot reuse the old bearing in most cars since it's pressed and comes apart when removed... These shims are too correct moderate runnout without making you spend a small fortune on a cheap car.
I don't remember them covering this in my auto mechanics course! Possible I don't remember..
I might use aluminum foil next time to fix the low side, 😄!
😂 if you had a rotor retaining bolt...it might just work
How can I find the book to get these specifications?
Thank you, this is very useful information
Yes looks Good for Glass City Machining Lancaster, Ohio
How can indexing the rotor reduce the run out?
They why is it that when you have the rotor cut, it fixes the pedal vibration! EXACTLY.....
Mr EXACTLY, think about it, not all vibration is caused by hubs/drive flanges having run out, if your discs are to blame skimming will correct it, FOR A WHILE, as you have now introduced DTV into the disc it will return.
In my nearly 40 years experience working on cars I have learned GM suffer massively from this, ford is next, the last hub flange I skimmed had 10 thou, 0.25mm run out, imagine that by the time it's amplified by the diameter of the disc, once skimmed end of problem
NAPA part search returns no listing for conical washer or plates!
check on amazon for open ended lug nuts for your vehicle. you can buy them cheap compared to those kits they sell . Once you buy them you can reuse them for any brake job in your future.
another way they make money on "accessories".... lol