Inertia Air Lol you'll never know it all.... when you do you'll be ready to retire!? Some people will start getting on your nerves!? Picking your brain trying to squeeze blood out of a turnip.... then they'll call you after a capacitor blows up in their face !? Thank goodness for loyal customers!! But be prepared for the ones who make unit worse... then call you 🤔🙄😤 Bahahaha laugh with me!! You know what I'm talking about 😂
I truly believe some of the original equipment contactors are undersize and cheap. Sometimes it’s better to go up a size. Also it should be verified that the unit is not able to short cycle, or try to start when the system isn’t yet equalized. Frequent starts kill contactors.
Yeah and the sucky wire nuts on the trane and there’s no telling what else happened. Also need to check the breaker sometimes electric panel and the breakers get loose and the wires got loose
Hello Bryan ( notice I spelled correctly, ey ) , where can I email you for an important question regarding testing compressor windings , please ( I heard you giving your email address on a podcast but I can't remember which one !) Thank you very much , this problem is doing my head in !
Oh I thought u said contractor!? Switch!!! Like musical chairs!!! The one with plumbers crack syndrome goes 1st! Pull ya pants up before you come to my place..... ain't nobody got time for that😂🤠🤣 I change them when they have sutty look around the contact area! Or intermittent strange freeze ups!?(or visibly worn!!) Always put right size in too(residential)or slightly higher amperage (30amps are good!)RFL ?! Bigger the unit single phase unit... probably need a bigger contactor amperage 30-40 plus?! Wire terminals burning wearing.... replace contacts & make sure they're tight snug fittings! Clean /rinse the condenser coil.... hot unit .... hot/ harder working outdoor unit/system! Take it to da house 🏡🏃🏼 There's always more to check... Experience will tell you if low on refrigeratant after cleaning coil(s)... take temp drops at supply & return vents etc!! A history of good check ups will help with determining the system charge!? Eliminate call backs! Do a gd thorough job the 1st time!!👍
Being a little picky but 2 things. 1st use factory style contactor and you won't have to worry about the issue of the wire ends. 2nd ants will still get into that style of contactor...lol had it happen many of time....
Loral Kinney I don’t even carry 30 amp contactors anymore because the lugs on the 40 amperes are far superior, still have ant issues on those though too...
TheMotoRebel fortunately they are making capacitors with less dielectric!? U can shake a new capacitor and you don't hear or feel the fluid slushing around in them hardly anymore.... & the capacitors don't last as long as in the past! (lol that's the only draw back!) But it's a mess when those old capacitors blow sometimes!! Rinse or clean condenser coils & go to 440 volt if this happens a lot on a unit!? Sometimes 370 volt capacitor isn't enough for the unit. 👍👌🏼👋🏽
@Texas made The contacts are pitted and you can see it's smoked up from arcing. I'm a tech with 23 years of experience and not a parts changer or a salesman. If I'm doing a PREVENTATIVE maintenance and see a part that may fail in the near future I will recommend to the homeowner to let me replace it to prevent further problems. That is the reason we do preventive maintenance is prevent breakdowns right? Just my thoughts
Love watching the videos. After 35 years in the trade and 69 years old I had to give up the trade that I loved. Every once in a while I have to work on one of the package units at my church and feel 30 years younger,
I've been doing electrical since the early 80's and I had some systems that I performed 6mo maintenance on for years on end. I've seen new systems go in without the use of deoxidizing compounds and end up with terminal corrosion in 2-3yrs. Then I've monitored connections that have been treated with De-Ox, Noalox, etc. and seen zero issues. I alway do voltage drop tests and measure terminal temperature, and the De-Ox/Noalox treated connections have performed significantly better than untreated systems. I use de-ox compounds on on all connections that are outdoors or in high humidity areas, with excellent results. I even go as far as using de-ox compounds on male cord ends, plugging them into recepticals in order to coat those contact areas. I am 100% convinced that the de-ox compounds are benifical, if used in moderation. Regardless, always tighten, wiggle, tighten, wiggle, tighten, wiggle, tighten wiggle...
One thing I've found that is also very important when replacing contactors is referring to the schematic as was done here to confirm the style of contactor. We run behind a lot of people working for home warranty companies and often I find double pole contactors installed (without properly jumping out the proper side of the contactor) where a single pole contactor was originally intended by the manufacturer.
Oscarbm1234 lol u can do it... always check with your voltmeter before wrkg on systems! Turn off breakers or pull disconnect box plugs (push contactors in manually etc... But when you're working with someone look out! U can get shocked !!! Lockout tag out really comes in handy!!! Respect elect! My dad was an electrician!! I feel ya about metal jewelry during electrical work!! Commercial more dangerous!! Lot of people interacting!!🤔👍😤😱
Orlando Johnson yeah mine was on a 480 vac system as I was showing a helper to be careful and telling him that 480 will jump roughly 1/2” and bam, bitch got me
Had to replace 480 vac motor on a brine pump. Four ft. from motor was breaker labeled brine pump. I shut breaker off than took off connection box cover, and just to be careful, I took meter and tested. It still had 480 volts on it.Told supervisor who put me on job, an he said, Oh yeah, we relocated power to breaker on next level down. smh.
Bryan made good points about measuring the voltage drop across each contact. This should be done before and after contactor replacement. From my checking of voltage drop,, 50 millivolts would be the maximum. Also, an amp clamp as mentioned would confirm the unit doesn’t have any hidden issues.
Okay smart guy. I seen your stuff before. Now where did you get that information as it is not found anywhere on these kind of sites. Let's get specific here. Where is the probe placement for the measurement. On the bare wire before and after it leaves the terminal, on the terminal screw heads, or maybe on the contact bars the terminal mounts to. We got at least a 4 point series circuit here. And another thing I've seen here is several well known clamp meters have poor resolution and seem to only measure down to 100 millivolts or so. What about that? Guys read 0.00 v and think there in heaven. Look forward to your response.
I agree....no problem is snipping off the ring connector on the "ring". Another way.....take the ring and fold it onto itself lengthwise......makes for a solid "bar" to insert under the screw-head connection.
I'd like your opinion on the Emerson 49P11-843 SureSwitch Relay? I am thinking of using these on the condenser units at my home. Thanks, Jenkins A/C & Heating
Dielectric grease is non conductive this is not the appropriate use .They make the proper grease for that application manufacturered by several suppliers but let's be clear that is absolutely the wrong use of the grease the tech used and all screws on high amp connections should be torqued to stated value on the contractor
I’ve been using the same method of leaving the crimp on when changing out contactors for a few years. Now we only stock lug type contactors because of the solid connection the is method provides. Your narration is spot on. Great video.
How come HVAC companies are crazy about technology, but won’t use a voltage zero crossover circuit to only energize the contactor when the AC mains are about to cross zero volts on the sign wave, thus drastically reducing the arcing.
had one being shorted by a 24 volt short in the furnace blowing the 3 amp fuse on the board. Fixed the rub out short. Called for cooling and the contacter was chattering. compressor sounded horrible. Shut system down changed contacter and restarted compressor. Compressor would not run and was off on thermal. Placed ice bag on top and went to lunch returned and attempted to restart compressor. would not restart. Omhed out single phase compressor one omh per leg. Advised customer compressor went bad.
BEST damn HVAC channel on RUclips. I have a 10 year old condenser and I am going out to check my contactor right now and see if there is a voltage drop. The part is cheap.
I have been coming across a lot of buzzing contactors in electric heaters (208 3phase with 208v coil) they are pitted pretty good too, when I swap them with new ones they dont buzz. What causes this? Thanks!!
Matthew Beblo, the “buzzing” comes from rust on the surface that is attracted by the electromagnet coil when energized. The uneven rust surface causes it to not sit flush and generates a “buzz” as it tries to do so. This is caused from not being energized for a long while. It will calm down some after several cycles, but will never be as quiet as it should.
1983brickcity I'd charge $80 to $120?! Depends on what other repairs you did!? Dual Capacitors $150-200!? If u don't charge for labor warranty.... you'll eat it on callbacks etc! The skill , gas, time, schooling (continued education & certification) deserves certain pricing!!! Some can't understand until they do it dirt cheap & go outta business!? A good service tech makes it look easy.... but skill knowledge is required in this field!! Different house/buildings.. different problems! U have to adjust & diagnose different things all the time! Guesstimate but prepare for anything!! Listen to the customer... but read between the lines!
When dealing with a three phase system and three pole contactors, is there a way to test the Integrity of the contacts and determine when they are close to failure?
Where do I get the “HVAC” hat?
HVAC School website
I’m here because i want to be the best I can be. Thankful for your knowledge 👌
Inertia Air Lol you'll never know it all.... when you do you'll be ready to retire!?
Some people will start getting on your nerves!?
Picking your brain trying to squeeze blood out of a turnip.... then they'll call you after a capacitor blows up in their face !?
Thank goodness for loyal customers!!
But be prepared for the ones who make unit worse... then call you 🤔🙄😤
Bahahaha laugh with me!! You know what I'm talking about 😂
Fantastic Video. I for one appreciate transparency and you nailed it!
Definitely check for no voltage I have personally bit because someone bypassed one leg in the disconnect.
wait wtf? how and why would someone do that?!
Thank you.
I truly believe some of the original equipment contactors are undersize and cheap. Sometimes it’s better to go up a size. Also it should be verified that the unit is not able to short cycle, or try to start when the system isn’t yet equalized. Frequent starts kill contactors.
I would have liked to have seen you mention the sizing of the replacement contactor with the appropriate FLA as the OEM part.. 👍
Yeah and the sucky wire nuts on the trane and there’s no telling what else happened. Also need to check the breaker sometimes electric panel and the breakers get loose and the wires got loose
Hello Bryan ( notice I spelled correctly, ey ) , where can I email you for an important question regarding testing compressor windings , please ( I heard you giving your email address on a podcast but I can't remember which one !) Thank you very much , this problem is doing my head in !
locked rotor amps is what the amp draw would be if the compressor is locked up not at start up.
It’s the same. In both cases it is the amps drawn when the rotor isn’t moving. On start it’s just instantaneous
@@HVACS I always thought they were different thanks for clarifying that.
Oh I thought u said contractor!?
Switch!!!
Like musical chairs!!!
The one with plumbers crack syndrome goes 1st!
Pull ya pants up before you come to my place..... ain't nobody got time for that😂🤠🤣
I change them when they have sutty look around the contact area! Or intermittent strange freeze ups!?(or visibly worn!!)
Always put right size in too(residential)or slightly higher amperage (30amps are good!)RFL ?!
Bigger the unit single phase unit... probably need a bigger contactor amperage 30-40 plus?!
Wire terminals burning wearing.... replace contacts & make sure they're tight snug fittings!
Clean /rinse the condenser coil.... hot unit .... hot/ harder working outdoor unit/system!
Take it to da house 🏡🏃🏼
There's always more to check...
Experience will tell you if low on refrigeratant after cleaning coil(s)... take temp drops at supply & return vents etc!!
A history of good check ups will help with determining the system charge!?
Eliminate call backs! Do a gd thorough job the 1st time!!👍
Being a little picky but 2 things. 1st use factory style contactor and you won't have to worry about the issue of the wire ends. 2nd ants will still get into that style of contactor...lol had it happen many of time....
Loral Kinney I don’t even carry 30 amp contactors anymore because the lugs on the 40 amperes are far superior, still have ant issues on those though too...
If the dielectric grease creeps in to the contacts of the contactor that would be really bad!
TheMotoRebel fortunately they are making capacitors with less dielectric!?
U can shake a new capacitor and you don't hear or feel the fluid slushing around in them hardly anymore.... & the capacitors don't last as long as in the past!
(lol that's the only draw back!)
But it's a mess when those old capacitors blow sometimes!!
Rinse or clean condenser coils & go to 440 volt if this happens a lot on a unit!?
Sometimes 370 volt capacitor isn't enough for the unit.
👍👌🏼👋🏽
What the hell is electric grease lol
Sound like yall the kind of guys that try and sale a complete system when a fan motor goes out. There was nothing wrong with that contactor
You're a smart one aren't ya ? Better to wait for the compressor to fail?
Cant tell if youre joking
@Texas made The contacts are pitted and you can see it's smoked up from arcing. I'm a tech with 23 years of experience and not a parts changer or a salesman. If I'm doing a PREVENTATIVE maintenance and see a part that may fail in the near future I will recommend to the homeowner to let me replace it to prevent further problems. That is the reason we do preventive maintenance is prevent breakdowns right? Just my thoughts
I was about to say this myself. I don't see this "black and pitted" they are talking about.
Love the honesty in this video, and I learned from it.
I agree, like he said he could edit portions of video out that he didn’t agree with, but he didn’t.
Some fuckery going on on that condenser coil!
Love watching the videos. After 35 years in the trade and 69 years old I had to give up the trade that I loved. Every once in a while I have to work on one of the package units at my church and feel 30 years younger,
True, the contacts are pitted, but they didn't do a voltage drop test or measure temperature.
I've been doing electrical since the early 80's and I had some systems that I performed 6mo maintenance on for years on end. I've seen new systems go in without the use of deoxidizing compounds and end up with terminal corrosion in 2-3yrs. Then I've monitored connections that have been treated with De-Ox, Noalox, etc. and seen zero issues. I alway do voltage drop tests and measure terminal temperature, and the De-Ox/Noalox treated connections have performed significantly better than untreated systems.
I use de-ox compounds on on all connections that are outdoors or in high humidity areas, with excellent results. I even go as far as using de-ox compounds on male cord ends, plugging them into recepticals in order to coat those contact areas. I am 100% convinced that the de-ox compounds are benifical, if used in moderation. Regardless, always tighten, wiggle, tighten, wiggle, tighten, wiggle, tighten wiggle...
One thing I've found that is also very important when replacing contactors is referring to the schematic as was done here to confirm the style of contactor. We run behind a lot of people working for home warranty companies and often I find double pole contactors installed (without properly jumping out the proper side of the contactor) where a single pole contactor was originally intended by the manufacturer.
Dude wears his wedding band when handling electrical?........ tough
Oscarbm1234 till death due them part😂 But seriously it hurts and I don’t wear mine anymore because of that
Oscarbm1234 lol u can do it... always check with your voltmeter before wrkg on systems! Turn off breakers or pull disconnect box plugs (push contactors in manually etc...
But when you're working with someone look out! U can get shocked !!! Lockout tag out really comes in handy!!!
Respect elect!
My dad was an electrician!!
I feel ya about metal jewelry during electrical work!!
Commercial more dangerous!! Lot of people interacting!!🤔👍😤😱
Orlando Johnson yeah mine was on a 480 vac system as I was showing a helper to be careful and telling him that 480 will jump roughly 1/2” and bam, bitch got me
Had to replace 480 vac motor on a brine pump. Four ft. from motor was breaker labeled brine pump. I shut breaker off than took off connection box cover, and just to be careful, I took meter and tested. It still had 480 volts on it.Told supervisor who put me on job, an he said, Oh yeah, we relocated power to breaker on next level down. smh.
I tagged it out, and noted that power came from another source.
Very detailed I wish I had the benefit of training like this when I learned the trade many years ago .
Bryan made good points about measuring the voltage drop across each contact. This should be done before and after contactor replacement. From my checking of voltage drop,, 50 millivolts would be the maximum. Also, an amp clamp as mentioned would confirm the unit doesn’t have any hidden issues.
Okay smart guy. I seen your stuff before. Now where did you get that information as it is not found anywhere on these kind of sites. Let's get specific here. Where is the probe placement for the measurement. On the bare wire before and after it leaves the terminal, on the terminal screw heads, or maybe on the contact bars the terminal mounts to. We got at least a 4 point series circuit here. And another thing I've seen here is several well known clamp meters have poor resolution and seem to only measure down to 100 millivolts or so. What about that? Guys read 0.00 v and think there in heaven. Look forward to your response.
I agree....no problem is snipping off the ring connector on the "ring". Another way.....take the ring and fold it onto itself lengthwise......makes for a solid "bar" to insert under the screw-head connection.
I'd like your opinion on the Emerson 49P11-843 SureSwitch Relay? I am thinking of using these on the condenser units at my home. Thanks, Jenkins A/C & Heating
Dielectric grease is non conductive this is not the appropriate use .They make the proper grease for that application manufacturered by several suppliers but let's be clear that is absolutely the wrong use of the grease the tech used and all screws on high amp connections should be torqued to stated value on the contractor
I’ve been using the same method of leaving the crimp on when changing out contactors for a few years. Now we only stock lug type contactors because of the solid connection the is method provides. Your narration is spot on. Great video.
How come HVAC companies are crazy about technology, but won’t use a voltage zero crossover circuit to only energize the contactor when the
AC mains are about to cross zero volts on the sign wave, thus drastically reducing the arcing.
had one being shorted by a 24 volt short in the furnace blowing the 3 amp fuse on the board. Fixed the rub out short. Called for cooling and the contacter was chattering. compressor sounded horrible. Shut system down changed contacter and restarted compressor. Compressor would not run and was off on thermal. Placed ice bag on top and went to lunch returned and attempted to restart compressor. would not restart. Omhed out single phase compressor one omh per leg. Advised customer compressor went bad.
BEST damn HVAC channel on RUclips. I have a 10 year old condenser and I am going out to check my contactor right now and see if there is a voltage drop. The part is cheap.
I read the title too fast, I thought it said when to change a "contractor" and first few seconds of the video was very confusing haha.
Bert & Kirby show!!!!!!
Nice 👍 👍
I have been coming across a lot of buzzing contactors in electric heaters (208 3phase with 208v coil) they are pitted pretty good too, when I swap them with new ones they dont buzz. What causes this? Thanks!!
Matthew Beblo, the “buzzing” comes from rust on the surface that is attracted by the electromagnet coil when energized. The uneven rust surface causes it to not sit flush and generates a “buzz” as it tries to do so. This is caused from not being energized for a long while. It will calm down some after several cycles, but will never be as quiet as it should.
How much did you charge to replace the contactor? If you dont mind me asking. Just started my own business. Thanks
1983brickcity I'd charge $80 to $120?!
Depends on what other repairs you did!?
Dual Capacitors $150-200!?
If u don't charge for labor warranty.... you'll eat it on callbacks etc!
The skill , gas, time, schooling (continued education & certification) deserves certain pricing!!!
Some can't understand until they do it dirt cheap & go outta business!?
A good service tech makes it look easy.... but skill knowledge is required in this field!!
Different house/buildings.. different problems!
U have to adjust & diagnose different things all the time!
Guesstimate but prepare for anything!! Listen to the customer... but read between the lines!
When dealing with a three phase system and three pole contactors, is there a way to test the Integrity of the contacts and determine when they are close to failure?
Such as checking the resistance with the contacts energized but no high voltage applied.
commercial videos, residential is like a shady tree mechanic
That's 'shade tree' and after some time you will wish for one sonny.
i swear it said "when to replace your HVAC contractor" i replaced mine when they didn't respond to my emails lol.
I saw the same thing
Same here, it’s a human brain, plays a trick and makes us read it this way