That patch could have been part of the larger piece you welded there before. Each weld you can save by making patches more simple and larger better the result will be. Also the new floor plates should be attached to inner structure in this case from pre-drilled holes made plug welds. Otherwise nice work.
I agree, it should have been included in the bigger patch. Only problem is I did not see it there until after I removed the undercoating. This patch was more of just the bottom layer of the floor. The "inner structure" you refer to is just the bracket for the seat mounting point, which is welded to the floor of the car from the top side. A spot weld or two may have been a good idea now that I think of it.
I like to make a cardboard mold, than i transfer for the sheet metal the drawing, then i cut and with the same cardboard cut the metal to repair. One large section works best for me. Thank you for show us your techinic and make a vídeo. best regards
The black around the welds is okay. It is just some soot from the weld. Weld thru primer is a very good idea, especially on parts where you cant get to the back side to protect the bare steel once its welded. If you can easily access the back to paint it after its welded then I would do that instead.
Hello Onkar. You can use gassless mig welding. It won't be as nice to weld thin metal as welding with gas, but it will work. I wouldn't recommend buying a welder on amazon, but if you need a cheap welder be sure to get one with a good warranty and good reviews. The YesWelder Flux135 looks like an alright cheap option. Thanks for watching!
This is exactly what it is. Hell, I didnt even see it until I was ready to paint the underside of the car. The bodywork on the actual body of the car has been done to a much higher standard, since it will be visible and needs to be perfect. This small patch on the floor doesnt need to be perfect, at least for me. Thank you for watching!
Thanks Frank! Great question, the reason I believe it is sooty is because of the weld thru primer that I use. I normally only do the first few tacks to hold the piece on, and then clean it all up with the wire wheel before continuing. I left it on longer for the video because I figured it would be easier to see what I was doing. I have not noticed any ill effects such as porosity with this primer, just that it burns a little dirty. It's also not quite as easy to start the arc some times if its on real thick.
Hello. You are absolutely right when you write "you don't learn that at school". As a trained coachbuilder, we learn to create an overview. see how much has to be changed during a repair. This is when it comes to damage and rust work. Therefore, I would not recommend making such a one-time patch on patch as you are doing here. Make a big record and make collections that are original. You will save a lot of time. And then be sure that your welds are tight and burned again. Regards Per
Hey Per. That caption was meant to be a joke, because I was blocking what I was doing with my helmet on accident. This was the last patch that the car needed. The only reason I left it until the end was because it was hidden under the undercoating. It is below a bracket that the seat mounts to. If I had known it was there I would have included it in the bigger patch of the rear floor board. This is my first ever project car and first time doing rust repair, I am by no means a professional, just sharing the way I have done it so far on this car. All of the pinholes were re-welded and ground until it was solid. The whole underside of the car is now painted. After sandblasting, epoxy primer, seam sealer on all of the welds and seams, and then some tough durable paint on top. Thanks for the kind words!
Yes some people like to do it that way. My understanding is that a butt weld is the proper way to do it. The less overlapping metal the better, in my eyes. Thanks for watching!
Would be much better if all of the patches were removed and an entire floor section made. But depending on if you are just patching it to keep it on the road driving do what you have to. Just know this is not a traditionally proper way or appropriate for a true restoration.
Thanks for the reccomendation. This was my first project car ever, let alone a restoration car. Still have lots to learn! Ive tried to do mostly big patches, this one was hidden under the seat bracket. Couldnt see the rust until everything else was done. Thanks for watching!
Nyilvánvalóan nem mutatom meg a szakembereknek, hogyan végezzék a munkájukat. Csupán néhány tippet mutatok be azoknak a hétköznapi embereknek, akik szeretnék befoltozni a rozsdát
cuando tengas que volver a soldar una chapa de ese espesor la maquina de soldar la pones en 16 en coriente y en velocidad de hilo 5 y puedes soldarlo todo sin parar no tienes que estar dando puntos
@@bujiasable Gracias, pero sé soldar. Sí, es posible soldarlo sin parar, pero eso no es lo que quieres hacer. El metal delgado se calentará demasiado y se deformará si lo suelda así.
@@bujiasable La soldadora que utilizo no tiene una configuración real de voltaje y velocidad de alimentación de alambre. Están en una escala del 1 al 10, así que no sé qué amperaje es. Es un soldador antiguo de los años 80. Pronto haré un video que muestra cómo configurar su soldador para soldar láminas de metal delgadas, así que esté atento a eso en los próximos días. Saludos desde Canadá
![OsamaSon - ik what you did last summer [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4DIQDnu3mr4/mqdefault.jpg)
Of all the body hammers I own, I alway's revert back to the good old "CLAW HAMMER" as I am glad to see you using in this video repair.
That patch could have been part of the larger piece you welded there before. Each weld you can save by making patches more simple and larger better the result will be. Also the new floor plates should be attached to inner structure in this case from pre-drilled holes made plug welds. Otherwise nice work.
I agree, it should have been included in the bigger patch. Only problem is I did not see it there until after I removed the undercoating.
This patch was more of just the bottom layer of the floor. The "inner structure" you refer to is just the bracket for the seat mounting point, which is welded to the floor of the car from the top side. A spot weld or two may have been a good idea now that I think of it.
I like to make a cardboard mold, than i transfer for the sheet metal the drawing, then i cut and with the same cardboard cut the metal to repair. One large section works best for me.
Thank you for show us your techinic and make a vídeo.
best regards
Thats a pretty good idea, saves a bit of time on the cutting to get the cardboard to fit perfectly.
Thanks for watching!
That's known as CAD Cardboard Aided Design
That was funny (teach in school)
Good to see I'm basically doing the same thing.
What is the vehicle you are patching?
This is my 1984 Nissan 300zx. I have a couple videos on my channel of the restoration so far.
Thanks for watching!
Great video but first you have to find a honest guy who do a great job
Thanks 👍
Buen trabajo, puedes decir que es ese spray que le hechaste antes de soldar,saludos.
el spray es una soldadura a través de imprimación. ¡gracias por ver!
De Chile yo pienso que el sordar al oxígeno es más bonita o piñón con mucho respeto pero bendiciones para usted maestro y familia
Gracias mi amigo
You’re helmet was blocking the camera when the message “they don’t teach you this in school“ appeared
That was the joke 🤣
Oh ok . Weld thru primer a must or not. I see black tinge around the welds?
The black around the welds is okay. It is just some soot from the weld. Weld thru primer is a very good idea, especially on parts where you cant get to the back side to protect the bare steel once its welded. If you can easily access the back to paint it after its welded then I would do that instead.
That thing they don't teach in school I didn't learn from you because your head is in the way so what were we learning anyway.
(That was the joke) :P
Great video. Thanks for the tips
Glad you enjoyed!
Thanks my friend
I'm beginner for welding. Sir mag welding is better is??
Gas less or no??
I am from India 🇮🇳
Can I order on Amazon??please reply me.
Hello Onkar. You can use gassless mig welding. It won't be as nice to weld thin metal as welding with gas, but it will work.
I wouldn't recommend buying a welder on amazon, but if you need a cheap welder be sure to get one with a good warranty and good reviews. The YesWelder Flux135 looks like an alright cheap option.
Thanks for watching!
@@fealgarage Thanks for replying 🙏
Sir.
@@onkarsingh7608 Best of luck with your project! I will upload a video soon of a more in depth guide to welding sheet metal
What ever works,look like it's an an area that won't be seen
This is exactly what it is. Hell, I didnt even see it until I was ready to paint the underside of the car. The bodywork on the actual body of the car has been done to a much higher standard, since it will be visible and needs to be perfect. This small patch on the floor doesnt need to be perfect, at least for me.
Thank you for watching!
Zmiana zawodnika ok? To już koniec drogi? Powodzenia i koniec ok?
Tłumacz Google nie działa dobrze z językiem polskim. Nie rozumiem co mówisz.
Dzięki za oglądanie!
@@fealgarage thank You for change a actor in the show must go on. Really apriciate that and my best regards for other victim
Tip of the day,never cut out before making the new part to fit 😂
Eh, either way works fine
you would get more viewers if you talk during the video
Thanks for the suggestion, I will take it into consideration
Igual maçarico não tem essa solda mig. Pontiado solta
good vid. good captions. why were the 1st tacks so sooty?
Thanks Frank! Great question, the reason I believe it is sooty is because of the weld thru primer that I use. I normally only do the first few tacks to hold the piece on, and then clean it all up with the wire wheel before continuing. I left it on longer for the video because I figured it would be easier to see what I was doing.
I have not noticed any ill effects such as porosity with this primer, just that it burns a little dirty. It's also not quite as easy to start the arc some times if its on real thick.
Hello.
You are absolutely right when you write "you don't learn that at school".
As a trained coachbuilder, we learn to create an overview. see how much has to be changed during a repair. This is when it comes to damage and rust work. Therefore, I would not recommend making such a one-time patch on patch as you are doing here. Make a big record and make collections that are original. You will save a lot of time. And then be sure that your welds are tight and burned again.
Regards Per
Hey Per. That caption was meant to be a joke, because I was blocking what I was doing with my helmet on accident.
This was the last patch that the car needed. The only reason I left it until the end was because it was hidden under the undercoating. It is below a bracket that the seat mounts to. If I had known it was there I would have included it in the bigger patch of the rear floor board.
This is my first ever project car and first time doing rust repair, I am by no means a professional, just sharing the way I have done it so far on this car.
All of the pinholes were re-welded and ground until it was solid.
The whole underside of the car is now painted. After sandblasting, epoxy primer, seam sealer on all of the welds and seams, and then some tough durable paint on top.
Thanks for the kind words!
A metal flanger helps to make a better weld and transtion in height difference .
Yes some people like to do it that way. My understanding is that a butt weld is the proper way to do it. The less overlapping metal the better, in my eyes.
Thanks for watching!
Someone just gave me a welder and now I’m learning.
Thats awesome man. What welder is it? I'll be posting a video soon on practice techniques to learn
It’s nothing special, however it was free and my first one so I’m excited!
JEGS MIG 100 Gasless Wire Welder [110V AC]
Is that suppose to be welded ... arnt you suppose to weld all way around ..
Are you talking about the thumbnail? If you watch the video you will see I do fully weld the patch
@@fealgarage ummm
I'm not sure what you are talking about
💥💥💥💥💥
Would be much better if all of the patches were removed and an entire floor section made. But depending on if you are just patching it to keep it on the road driving do what you have to. Just know this is not a traditionally proper way or appropriate for a true restoration.
Thanks for the reccomendation. This was my first project car ever, let alone a restoration car. Still have lots to learn! Ive tried to do mostly big patches, this one was hidden under the seat bracket. Couldnt see the rust until everything else was done.
Thanks for watching!
Ezt a munkát nem merném kitenni közszemlére.....Tanuló szint.....
Nyilvánvalóan nem mutatom meg a szakembereknek, hogyan végezzék a munkájukat. Csupán néhány tippet mutatok be azoknak a hétköznapi embereknek, akik szeretnék befoltozni a rozsdát
Jesus Christ take that mig gun off him! what a mess and using a claw hammer!!
Gotta do what you gotta do my man! Thanks for watching
"Nice job 👍👍🇺🇸"
Thanks for watching!
Nice
Thanks for watching!
Maçarico ainda é o melhor
As soldas são totalmente penetradas. Soldagem de acetileno coloca muito calor no metal
Файно!🇺🇦
дякую, що спостерігаєш за моїм братом з рідної землі
hola que espesor tiene esa chapa ?
¡Gran pregunta! Olvidé agregar esa información al video. La hoja que estoy usando es calibre 18, 0.048"
¡Gracias por ver!
cuando tengas que volver a soldar una chapa de ese espesor la maquina de soldar la pones en 16 en coriente y en velocidad de hilo 5 y puedes soldarlo todo sin parar no tienes que estar dando puntos
@@bujiasable Gracias, pero sé soldar. Sí, es posible soldarlo sin parar, pero eso no es lo que quieres hacer. El metal delgado se calentará demasiado y se deformará si lo suelda así.
tu practica en chapas finas que tengas por hay pones la maquina en los parametros que te e dado donde vives ?
@@bujiasable La soldadora que utilizo no tiene una configuración real de voltaje y velocidad de alimentación de alambre. Están en una escala del 1 al 10, así que no sé qué amperaje es. Es un soldador antiguo de los años 80.
Pronto haré un video que muestra cómo configurar su soldador para soldar láminas de metal delgadas, así que esté atento a eso en los próximos días.
Saludos desde Canadá
Столько времени тратить на одну латку это слишком долго!!!!
Видео слишком длинное? Чтобы сделать патч, понадобилось меньше часа.
@@fealgarage Сам автосварщик так что знаю сколько тратиться времени на такую работу!20минут!!!!!!
Много ненужной возьни