Coloring with Iron Acetate, Filling the Grain
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- Опубликовано: 26 сен 2024
- I ask my good friend and professional finisher Brian Miller to shoot a video that is slightly out of the box using mix medium. There seems to be a trend among woodworkers incorporating metal and other mediums into their work. Here Brian shows how finishing can be part of the design. He also shares generously many of his tips and tricks.
Excellent lecture. Detailed in all the right spots. Couldn't thank you more.
YOU ARE MY NEW FAVORITE HOW-TO GUY! Thank you for the additional tips along the way, the STELLAR gold-infused oak finish (very unique), and incredibly professional production values of the video itself. Man! What i wouldn't give for a weeklong shadow opp in the workshop! Thanks so much for your time & talent! You rock!
Rebecca, thank-you for yourkind words, sorry I haven't ;looked at this post in a while.
Im just a few minutes into this video along with some scrolling. I can't believe the content. I really need to watch it start to finish. Looks like great content!
great video, I never thought of using a different color to fill open grains. this gives me so many finishing ideas. thanks.
look up ceruse finish
Never seen that before. I really enjoyed every minute and learned a lot.
I stumbled upon your video by chance. You just demonstrated exactly what I have been wanting to do but wasn’t sure how to do it. I was honestly going to see about trying to apply stain straight to the grain only with small brushes. I’m glad I found this!
William thank you Once again and thank you Brian for sharing your skills I am all ways concerned when it comes to glueing and finishing you guys are about the best thing one can watch in Australia
Fantastic video and beautiful result!
All I can say is WOOOWWW!!!! Thanks for the education on finishing!
Really enjoyed that Brian. Well Done!!!
You are a professional.
You know what you are doing.
Nice finish, and very clear video. Thanks for posting
I use a similar technique after ebonizing. Instead of the paste and colors I use plaster of Paris to back fill the grains. You can use food colors to tint it. Use the same application and cleanup methods once it has dried. I do use catalyzed lacquer but if you don't have an HVLP and want to brush on. You can use a varathane finish. Thin it down with water for the sealer coat, then top coat as usual. Do NOT use polyurethane as it has an amber tint to it that will discolor your filler. The only drawback to varathane is the drying/curing times.
Plaster of Paris is great. It gives a flatter look. I love using colors different than the stain.
Awesome presentation and great looking finish thank you both 🍀
Beautiful cerusing. I love it
Awesome!! Ty for sharing
WOW. Thank You! This looks great!!
Excellent video. Thank you.
Thank you, very informative video.
Excellently explained ,thank you so much .
Good finishing tips.
Very informative with some great tips. I have to say it is not a finish I am ever likely to use on my projects.
When making the acetate there are a couple of techniques you could do to speed up the process. Heat your vinegar first. This will increase the reaction rate of converting the iron oxide from the wool. Also. You can add Hydrogen Peroxide in after you added the heated vinegar. The Peroxide will oxidize the wool much much quicker. This will allow the acetic acid to work more efficiently. Wont take anywhere near 4-5 days.
Someone give this a try. You will love the results. Gotta love chemistry.
+Jarrod Frankum How much hydrogen peroxide do you recommend? I use iron acetate quite a bit and am intrigued by your comment.
+Hardnox if you use the 3% stuff that you get at the drugstore, it may take a lot as its pretty weak. Heating it up would make it work faster. I don't know how much you are making at a time, so it's hard to tell. You can't use too much. Hydrogen peroxide degrades into water as light hits it so just experiment with it
Jarrod Frankum Thanks for the info. I usually mix about a gallon at a time. The mix ratio I use is 3 cups vinegar to one 0000 pad which has worked well for me
+Hardnox go for using a cup. It will dilute the mixture so you may have to experiment a bit, but it won't take near the time to dissolve the wool
Thanks very much for the info. I'll give it a try on the next batch.
High professionality.Thank you soo much
One of my fav "colouring". First read it in fine woodworking from the 70's. The only trouble is wood that does not have tannic acid.
You can solve that problem by coating with a strong tea before the iron acetate.
Really nice work! ❤️🇵🇰
Nice work! I've not used pre-cat lacquer before. In the past I used a vinyl sanding sealer and catalyzed varnish. Looks like with the pre-cat lacquer, I'd have 1 less product to buy. I'll have to try it.
very nice!
Nice!
This is only going to work on a high tannin type of wood (oak is one), but if you want to use it on any type wood, get some tannic acid (order it from amazon...its cheap) and instead of using water at the beginning mix some of the tannic acid with water until it dissolves and use that. That will blacken any wood when you add the ebonizing liquid. I have no idea why he says its not ebonizing since that is exactly what he is doing.
Well Done!
this is a professional quality video. This is not surprising as it is shown under william NG's site
It is a very instructive one ...
love it
Wilson, for the demo I did not finish the back. If it were a real job, would have colored the back as well & given the owner the option of filling the back.
Hello Brian. Kevin Deal here. The wood finisher/ furniture repair man from Oceanside, CA. We've met at your SAPFM presentation at Cerritos and also at you last SDFWA presentation. Still enjoying your book, great reference asset. My question is how is this different from an ebonizing technique. With ebonizing I use white vinegar, haven't tried the apple vinegar. Two years ago I did a ceruse finish on an oak table and chairs. The Mohawk filler always works great but with my job I actually used plaster of paris to fill the grain of the black oak. Hope to see you again soon. Thanks for the video!
Hi Kevin! While iron acetate can give some very dark results, especially oin woods like walnut that contain significant tannic acid, woods like maple don't contain tannic acid & require the addition of tannic acid, then logwood extract, followed by ferrous sulfate. Let me know if i can be of any help!
Brian
Brilliant
Lovely.. Would love to see the entire finished piece. I have often used Metallica in my stainless ed pieces as well as painted finishes. It makes them pop
White vinegar results in a darker color than the 5 times more expensive apple cider vinegar.
An insight into a great finishing technique. Its time to experiment with doing this with some standard staining colors and a nice grain contrast. Can you repost the filler name you used please?
Aage: The product was an oil-based filler made by the "Mohawk" Company. It was neutral in color, so you can add a colorant like artists oils, or Japan Colors, or in this case I used the metal powders which are not actually gold, but a mix of brass and other metals.
look up ceruse
You were clear like no one I heard before!! I am astonished. If I may make a quick question: instead of the laquer, would it be possible to use shellac finish?
I am an amateur instrument maker from Italy and having an answer would be awesome. thanks
I use iron sulfate, that way I don’t have to wait for the chemical reaction between the steel wool and acetate.
Mark, catalyzed varnish is a better and more durable finish, so the choice is your's!
I thought the point of the filler, along with coloring the grain, was to create a perfectly smooth surface to provide a glass-like finish. At the end I still see the grain which as not been filled and leveled.
i love it
The one thing I don't see you talk about is using compressed air if you don't have a good filtering system on your compressed air take cheese cloth and wrap it around your air spinet to absorb moisture in the line.
Awesome job! Did he finish the back side the same way? And does he do both sides at a time for each step?
Where do you buy yhe gallon of lacquer?
I am trying to find out if I can ebonize an old table and chairs that have stain and finish? I want to enonize them so do I have to strip and sand then ebonize?
Do you think this would work with an oak hardwood floor?
Anybody know the brand for the powdered filler?
Dose this work for all woods and how deep dose it penitrate . I would like to use this process for the wood bed in my truck. I was just wondering if scratches will expose the light wood color or will it penitrate deeper than just the surface.
Hey, Will, great video!
Really interested in filling grain with metal flakes. In particular, I'm looking for a silver color. Where did you source your gold colored flakes?
sb swae Try www.didspade.com. Dirt cheap, and I've used their flake for years with success.
5:10 Oh, sure, the nylon stockings belong to the wife. Suuuuurrre.
Good god. It would
Take forever to finish a job in the real world
Curious as to why he referred to the Iron Acetate as Not an Ebonizing technique? I've typically seen it called ebonizing.
Hi Ralph! Had I started with Logwood Extract, allowed the surface to dry, then applied the Iron Acetate it would have been positive black!
Ralph Kolva I think because depending on how "strong" you make it, you can get simply a "gray-weathered" look as opposed to the deep blackening.
Instead of masking tape, they do make gloves.
Filling the grain and color striking the pores are two separate things. The end result was color in the open pores and not filled pores.
Does colour in the open pores not fill them? Please explain the difference?
No, filling the pores with pore filler (colored or not) is used to level the surface of the wood so when a topcoat is applied the result is a completely flat surface, like a piano. Color striking does not level the surface but colors the open pores. Sometimes you have to apply pore filler a second time to get a smooth surface.
Jesse G Thanks for clarifying, that makes perfect sense. How does one match the colour when filing pores, or is the wood and the filler stained at the same time? I.e , after applying and sanding the filler?
Paste wood filler comes in different colors. Depending on what kind of pore filler you choose it can be colored to match using UTC's, powdered pigments, or dyes. I color match by eye and make a sample board prior to working on my actual piece. I take the color sample fully through the finishing process.
Jesse G Thanks for the info, much appreciated.
Very good teacher, but I just don't like the coarse grained oak.
What sort of trauma does a man go through to make him become a professional finisher?
The Answer My Friend is Blowing In The Wind... The Answer is Blowing In The Wind
😎
👕
👖
Have some appreciation for a master craftsman
Capitalism.
حد يعملثواب ويترجم مايقول
18:29
yes, Fake painter doing that all the time.
i hate it.
And the grabs the bucket full of messy fingers. .
and brushes and messy paint.
Get on with it. We don’t need to be spoon fed.
TIP...point the damned finished piece at the camera. Are you freaking kidding me?
An expertly done, heinously ugly door.
I am happy that I don't live in CA and have to adhere to all the liberal's rules.
I’m sorry, it’s not to my taste at all.
"Lacquer Retarder" is offensive. Please call it "Differently Lacquer-Abled".
Using the stain formula early before full aging will give a gray weathered look to the wood.
Great video! Very, very helpful! Thank you for sharing this great information!
Interesting. A very modern way to get a finish on the very classic "canvas" of wood.
Took a beautifully black-stained piece of wood and made it look cheap and tacky.
Beautiful but way too much work.
Nice finished product. Your information however is incorrect. Stickley's finishing method used ammonia fuming, which is the only method the company employed for a very long time to achieve his signature mission finish. There was no water and vinegar solution used.
Not the prettiest example but a useful set of techniques here, nonetheless. Thanks!
Is it possible to "thin" the iron acetate solution in order to achieve a gray color?
Stephen Kinnane yes you can either dilute with more vinegar or add water to your iron acetate. I would pour some of your iron acetate into a separate container/jar then dilute small amounts at a time until you achieve desired color. Good luck ;)