Do you ever use baking soda or a similar material to neutralize any acid? I think Gene Winfield video I saw him use baking soda and water between the tinning and leading steps and also after the lead was applied.
Man that’s a lot of work!! I’m thinking some chopped fiberglass and resin, in a thick slurry for the channel, then finish off the top it with some marglass.
+im Shax did not know that. I have never had one of mine crack or work on one that has suffered from cracked lead. Maybe down to environment or technique used? Never had it more than 1/8" thick at most, otherwise panel work needs doing before lead loading. I will keep an eye out for it from now on.
on the first gen f body its a lot easier to rotate the body up so the trough is flat flux it melt the lead then pour the lead in the gap til its full way less file work and you dont have to heat the metal out from the center so much
I used to do some lead loading in the ford factory in the 60s (damage repair man) some of the ford caprie body panals were press damaged and required large amounts of the stuff
Suggest you take advantage of "capillary action", start your pre heat at the center working outward in a circle, just before melt temp is achieved, work your heat too cause your lead too follow your torch..
nice work ,I am getting ready to do the same on my 69 camaro , dis you lead in the drip rails as well? if not what method did you use? what brand are the panels ? any fitment issues? Thank You!!
Dont lead the drip rails. Make sure they are super clean of any surface rust, epoxy prime,then seam seal the drip rails. Ofcourse, only seam seal them at the final primer stage, cause you'll booger it up if your still in the block sanding stage...
Use tallow if you can get some. Just run torch over the stiff tallow and then wipe you paddle on it to pickup. You then need to remove excess, just torch paddle a second and wipe on a coarse cloth like denim, or similar.
I have a dent that is 1/4" deep with no access to back to get the dent out and not very good at dent repair. If I fill it up with lead, is that going to be ok? Also I know bondo got to be very thin layers and no more than 1/8" deep. Is the same applies for lead as well or doesn't matter as long as it is done correctly?
I have a question for you . I live in ohio. ive always loved old cars . Is autobody a good carrer choice to support a family on ? Any advice will be greatly appreciated .
Define “support.” From 1-10, one being low, 10 being high, and compared to what other career choices? Actuarial science, for example, is and always will be in highly demand. Autobody if for sure good, but so is plumbing and HVAC. It all depends on exactly what you want/can and are willing to do. Life is all about compromises and above all, education and skill. I’d review a variety of options, compare the possible results, include all possible hazard exposure, and then make a choice based on my research and ping term goals.
I think you did a good job building it up, I just don't feel that the surface was quite hot enough initially to put the lead down, you're melting the lead and not the panel quite enough. Initially the panel should be hot enough to when you touch the stick to it, it will melt on its own.
Seen that too but if too hot it just runs off but each to their own. I personally start paddling bottom up and chase it in but we all have our own techniques.
It's called buttering, should be just enough heat so the lead sticks and smears onto the metal. There should only a little smoothing required if you have the right heat at the panel, this was a little cold initially. Best to use a rosebud tip so heat is spread over a larger area at same time, or acetylene with an oxygen infuser plug on tip if you have torches.
so is it safe to hang and weld on quarter panels as long as the door and fenders line up, while on a body cart or a homemade body cart like you have there?
ThisOldGarage I'm not sure if i understood this correct ( i do not read/speak English that well) and have to ask to be sure. I have started grinding clean the roof to sail panel area on my Firebird 73. Quarter panels seems to have been changed on my car because of the shitty plug welds and no seam sealer on the backside. It seems like condensed water have penetrated the lap joint from the inside and this have caused the whole joint to rust so bad that it showed trough the paint job on the outside. My question: Can i cut out the rusted section when the car is sitting on it's wheels or do i need to have the car bolted to a jig?
There was not enough heat, at least initially. Could not tell later as he was already smearing the piled up lead and we did not see the real filling process. Yes, you must melt the stick into the pockets and have zero holes or trapped air. Work your way up from the bottom and move toward the top, never come down as it drips and leaves pockets as it cools. It is better to work the panel a few times if you are filling a deep crack or area, waiting for it to cool if necessary before starting the second or third coating. You do have to be careful doing this as heat will melt the previous coat although doing it slowly and with step may be better for beginners. You can't really screw this up if you get the heat right, it should smear on like "butter", as Gend would say. Honestly, it is an art and you will never be great at it unless you have a lot of practice. Best to weld a few scrap panels together and practice, practice, practice, especially before attacking $500 to $1000 worth of new sheet metal quarters, roofs, etc.
I wonder, is this the best way to fill the seam? I have a 68 charger and it has the same seam at the same spot. isn't it better to completely fill it with weld? or body filler? what is the pro's and con's of the lead?
I am not sure about the files in grades. My files are just some I have picked up though the years at swap meets. If you find a low spot you can reheat the area and add the lead, just do not over heat and make your already finished lead run. The area will get epoxy primer and you could put a skim coat of filler on the epoxy for any low spots. Do not put filler right on top of the bare lead.
you can find some rougher files but you need proper body files to lead in a job like he showed but you can still order them leading in panels is almost a lost art since the invention of plastic body filler such as bondo but to do a correct body panel replacement lead is always the best way then you can skim a little bondo filler for that once you have filled in and did the work to file it down don't disrupt your work over less than a 1/8 in back in the day that was filled in with primer many many coats
Heck, I use too install brass closet flanges too lead stubs all day long and never had a mess like your making. But then I came from 4 generations of plumbers who actually wiped lead creating pipes outta flat sheet
Funny you said that. I was just sitting here thinking that the old plumber I apprenticed under could have wipe that seam and make it hold pressure, would have been smooth as a baby ass,all the while smoking a cigarette and laying on his back!
@@chrismoore9024 thanks. Not many left who took pride in there work anymore. My Great Granddad's Company in Greeley, Co. Started with a Mule and a buckboard.
A lot of lead "teachers" talk too much and show little. You keep the talking to a minimum and show what interest to guys who want to learn. Thanks
I bet you were good at it.
I am sorry I answered the wrong one.
The best leadwork tutorial up to now. Thanks!
DAMN U PUT ALLOTA LEAD ON THERE. THAT CARS GONNA LEAN.
Awesome! Exactly the video I have been looking for. Thanks again for sharing.
I watched a Gene Winfield video, he uses tallow on the trowel.
Do you ever use baking soda or a similar material to neutralize any acid? I think Gene Winfield video I saw him use baking soda and water between the tinning and leading steps and also after the lead was applied.
Excellent job !!!!! Thanks
Man that’s a lot of work!!
I’m thinking some chopped fiberglass and resin, in a thick slurry for the channel, then finish off the top it with some marglass.
That is nice brother
Sweet job. Thank you for the Video.
I try to finish the lead by using only the file in order to avoid having any lead dust from sanding.
Thanks for all the comments. The Camaro has been painted for two years and everything is looking great.
Great skills,as good as it gets. Way superior to just slapping bondo on it! You know it is never going to crack,flake or fall out.
+Andrew Wilson Lead actually cracks fairly often if it's applied to panels that could flex.
+im Shax did not know that. I have never had one of mine crack or work on one that has suffered from cracked lead. Maybe down to environment or technique used? Never had it more than 1/8" thick at most, otherwise panel work needs doing before lead loading. I will keep an eye out for it from now on.
Actually the 70/30 mix is pressure tested to flex up 3-4K psi
I've nervous had issues with properly applied fillers. I'd actually prefer a fiberglass based filler over lead any day
Awesome tutorial... I'd be afraid of heating up a new car it would warp like crazy.
This is not meant to be done with modern cars, which use high impact steel. I wouldn't do it on any car newer than about the 1977 model year
Awesome!
on the first gen f body its a lot easier to rotate the body up so the trough is flat flux it melt the lead then pour the lead in the gap til its full way less file work and you dont have to heat the metal out from the center so much
I used to do some lead loading in the ford factory in the 60s (damage repair man) some of the ford caprie body panals were press damaged and required large amounts of the stuff
I bet you were good at it.
Suggest you take advantage of "capillary action", start your pre heat at the center working outward in a circle, just before melt temp is achieved, work your heat too cause your lead too follow your torch..
nice work...
Thanks
Thank you.
nice work ,I am getting ready to do the same on my 69 camaro , dis you lead in the drip rails as well? if not what method did you use? what brand are the panels ? any fitment issues? Thank You!!
Dont lead the drip rails.
Make sure they are super clean of any surface rust, epoxy prime,then seam seal the drip rails.
Ofcourse, only seam seal them at the final primer stage, cause you'll booger it up if your still in the block sanding stage...
I found welder's soap made the paddle a lot easier to manover
Use tallow if you can get some. Just run torch over the stiff tallow and then wipe you paddle on it to pickup. You then need to remove excess, just torch paddle a second and wipe on a coarse cloth like denim, or similar.
I have a dent that is 1/4" deep with no access to back to get the dent out and not very good at dent repair. If I fill it up with lead, is that going to be ok? Also I know bondo got to be very thin layers and no more than 1/8" deep. Is the same applies for lead as well or doesn't matter as long as it is done correctly?
Can lead be used to fill dents rather than body filler?
***** Unlike body filler lead will never fall out either. The only downside is lead is poisionous but with proper ppe its fine.
I have a question for you . I live in ohio. ive always loved old cars . Is autobody a good carrer choice to support a family on ? Any advice will be greatly appreciated .
Define “support.” From 1-10, one being low, 10 being high, and compared to what other career choices? Actuarial science, for example, is and always will be in highly demand. Autobody if for sure good, but so is plumbing and HVAC. It all depends on exactly what you want/can and are willing to do. Life is all about compromises and above all, education and skill. I’d review a variety of options, compare the possible results, include all possible hazard exposure, and then make a choice based on my research and ping term goals.
can lead be welded
That's how you do it.
hi como buzco o encuentro ese tipo de plomo
Is it possible to do leading with headliner in place or with undercoating on fenders or is it a fire hazard?
Man trying to get a true curve with the file is a tall order!
I want a talk about one sir
I'll be to nervous about warpage...
I think you did a good job building it up, I just don't feel that the surface was quite hot enough initially to put the lead down, you're melting the lead and not the panel quite enough. Initially the panel should be hot enough to when you touch the stick to it, it will melt on its own.
Seen that too but if too hot it just runs off but each to their own. I personally start paddling bottom up and chase it in but we all have our own techniques.
It's called buttering, should be just enough heat so the lead sticks and smears onto the metal. There should only a little smoothing required if you have the right heat at the panel, this was a little cold initially. Best to use a rosebud tip so heat is spread over a larger area at same time, or acetylene with an oxygen infuser plug on tip if you have torches.
so is it safe to hang and weld on quarter panels as long as the door and fenders line up, while on a body cart or a homemade body cart like you have there?
As long as the structure is solid, good rockers and rear frame rails. Thanks
ThisOldGarage I'm not sure if i understood this correct ( i do not read/speak English that well) and have to ask to be sure. I have started grinding clean the roof to sail panel area on my Firebird 73. Quarter panels seems to have been changed on my car because of the shitty plug welds and no seam sealer on the backside. It seems like condensed water have penetrated the lap joint from the inside and this have caused the whole joint to rust so bad that it showed trough the paint job on the outside. My question: Can i cut out the rusted section when the car is sitting on it's wheels or do i need to have the car bolted to a jig?
You should be safe to cut because the inner structure of the car is what keeps it strong.
Awesome! thanks!
@@Formula400Pontiac
Yes, you can safely cut and repair the car just the way it is.
Qual a marca desse fluxo
where can you find the lead you are using, good stuff, thanks.
Johnson mfg. You can look them up on line. Thanks
Eastwood has kits available.
You can also buy the lead free sticks. Way safer on your health!
you started this back in 2012 its now 2018..it took you six years to lead it. omg (
It took six years to restore the car!
am I wrong ...is he moving to fast ? air Pockets? please let me know ...
Yes
No air pockets
He looked like he was being pretty careful and methodical. It didn't look at all like he left air pockets.
There was not enough heat, at least initially. Could not tell later as he was already smearing the piled up lead and we did not see the real filling process. Yes, you must melt the stick into the pockets and have zero holes or trapped air. Work your way up from the bottom and move toward the top, never come down as it drips and leaves pockets as it cools. It is better to work the panel a few times if you are filling a deep crack or area, waiting for it to cool if necessary before starting the second or third coating. You do have to be careful doing this as heat will melt the previous coat although doing it slowly and with step may be better for beginners. You can't really screw this up if you get the heat right, it should smear on like "butter", as Gend would say. Honestly, it is an art and you will never be great at it unless you have a lot of practice. Best to weld a few scrap panels together and practice, practice, practice, especially before attacking $500 to $1000 worth of new sheet metal quarters, roofs, etc.
I wonder, is this the best way to fill the seam? I have a 68 charger and it has the same seam at the same spot. isn't it better to completely fill it with weld? or body filler? what is the pro's and con's of the lead?
michaelmeel To me this is the best way to fill it. It is how the factory did it. Less chance of cracking than body filler.
ThisOldGarage now lets say you fill it up with welding it completely full wouldn't that be better?
It would warp from the heat of that much welding and would still require lead or filler.
I'd personally used fiberglass filler. I'd trust that more them lead...
Do files for this come in grades like sandpaper? What do you do if you find a low place?
I am not sure about the files in grades. My files are just some I have picked up though the years at swap meets. If you find a low spot you can reheat the area and add the lead, just do not over heat and make your already finished lead run. The area will get epoxy primer and you could put a skim coat of filler on the epoxy for any low spots. Do not put filler right on top of the bare lead.
you can find some rougher files but you need proper body files to lead in a job like he showed but you can still order them leading in panels is almost a lost art since the invention of plastic body filler such as bondo but to do a correct body panel replacement lead is always the best way then you can skim a little bondo filler for that once you have filled in and did the work to file it down don't disrupt your work over less than a 1/8 in back in the day that was filled in with primer many many coats
why not weld a plate in there instead of filling it?
Or even fill it with fibreglass then filler
Heck, I use too install brass closet flanges too lead stubs all day long and never had a mess like your making.
But then I came from 4 generations of plumbers who actually wiped lead creating pipes outta flat sheet
Funny you said that. I was just sitting here thinking that the old plumber I apprenticed under could have wipe that seam and make it hold pressure, would have been smooth as a baby ass,all the while smoking a cigarette and laying on his back!
@@chrismoore9024 thanks. Not many left who took pride in there work anymore. My Great Granddad's Company in Greeley, Co. Started with a Mule and a buckboard.
Rubber gloves with the flame work are a bad idea, use weld gloves.
I'm sure it's not to safe to breath those fumes
no exhaust gas breathing is super