My Approach to Honing and Honing a Filarmonica 14
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- Опубликовано: 14 мар 2024
- I once again find a way to make a 20 minute task into a one hour video. In this one I sharpen a Gen 2 Filarmonica 14 and discuss my approach to sharpening and stone progressions.
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Hi Greg. Found your channel! I watched the whole thing and went from ”wow, I’ll try that”, to ”I have so far to go before I am anywhere close to your level - I quit!”, back to “ok, no more messing around - it’s time to take this honing thing seriously”. You are a scholar and a gentleman and a great teacher and I thank you for taking the time to make this video. Most inspiring and helpful.
/Johan
Hi Johan. Thanks so much for the kind words. I'm glad that you found something useful in all that :)
@@greggallant5058 A question: I have some packaging peanuts. There is an enormous difference between simply pressing and making an ever so small (a millimeter or two) cutting action into the peanut. Do you make sure not to leave a stone in the progression until the edge cuts with zero slicing movement?
Generally, the answer is yes, but I'm not as precise about it until I get to finishing the razor.
A push-cut is a better test of sharpness with the peanut because it is easier to gauge the resistance of the polystyrene "skin" to a push than it is to a cut. You need to get a feel for this, but even with the coarser grits (1K-2K), a small push should break the skin (with a little "snap" sound) when the edge is in good shape on that stone.
@@greggallant5058 Roger that
Great work!
Thank YOU
Hi Greg! I like your video! Very helpfull for me! Can you tell, which kind of microscope you're using to inspect? Thanks!
Hi Christof. The microscope is a Dino-Lite digital microscope that magnifies between 700 and 900 times and has features for looking at shiny surfaces. Dino-Lite makes a couple of versions of this that vary with computer interface. The one I have uses USB-3.
I heard somewhere that Shapton Glass can cause damage to the edges like chipping and the scrape marks are worse than with Shapton Pro. Is this true?
They are definitely different stones. The Shapton Glass stones have a high density of aluminum oxide abrasive and their ceramic binder is very hard. The Shapton Pros have the same abrasive, at a lower density, and use a different binder. Most people like the feel of the Pros better. To answer your question, I don't think that the Shapton Glass stones are inherently worse to use for razors, but they need to be used with an understanding of what they are.
DrMatt357 found that the Shapton Glass 16K stone imparted an uneven scratch pattern and overhoned an edge. He has a video on this that you can find on RUclips. When I first tried it, about 2 years ago, I found that the 16K stone did the same thing and discussed this with him. At some point, I'll give this another try to see if there is a way to use the stone to get a better looking refined edge.
@@greggallant5058Thank you for that info on how they are made. This helps me understand better why the glass works different versus the pro. I own pro only and Atoma Diamond, but plan to try other stones. Getting perspective from people who use different abrasives will help guide me in the direction I need to go next.
Since I have only been honing for little over a year with SRs I ordered a yellow coti to try natural progression. I figure if I can get good results with that then maybe later I’ll try Jnat. Thanks again!
That's a great setup! If you have the 1K then if you add the 320 at some point, you can keep all your kitchen knives nice and sharp.
Being a natural stone, the coti will behave a bit differently, and it is slower. With practice you can get very comfortable edges with it.
Your rolling x stroke or the lack thereof is terribly underdeveloped. Other than that, pretty good video overall. The bevel has two bevel faces that need to be cut deep enough to create an apex, this is called "setting the bevel" properly. Also you should kill the edge and bring it back on the 4k, the 2k stone overworked the steel and made it toothy.
I appreciate your comments. Be aware that the magnification of the microscope photos is just under 940X. The teeth you see in the 2K microscope photo are about 4 to 8 microns wide and a little less deep. The microscope is calibrated so you see a scale in the bottom left that shows lines in X and Y that are 50 microns long at that magnification. The abrasive size at 2K is just under 8 microns. I would offer that what you see is consistent with work done by that abrasive.
All razors finished without the edge being killed and brought back on the pre finisher are grabby and toothy, lacking smoothness. I've honed thousands of edges, I own a collection of 20 finishers all of which I know inside and out. @@greggallant5058
I really enjoy your videos and the commentary 👍🏻 Also I don’t think you are rambling the info is very useful thank you!
Thank you! In this video, in particular, I think I could have been more clear in my presentation, but I can correct that in upcoming videos.
Hi Greg, a few things I find not to be ideal with your method. Thought I will let you know, cause you asked what you could do better and why. The forth and back strokes are not helping in my opinion, it is rounding the bevel at best. You want the finest edge with the best geometrie. The idea that an edge can be to sharp is wrong. It has to do with bevel angle, if it is obscured and to flat, you will get in drouble. The Nagura progression is not making much sense when you finaly finish on the base stone. Why? Because I believe your base stone is not a particular (super) fine grid stone.
Thanks very much for taking the time to let me know your thoughts.
@@greggallant5058 Any time, my pleasure.