Amazing Peter the advice you give is always sound, people today are so lucky they have the internet, RUclips etc and can get free teaching from bonsai masters such as your self, in our days the only access we had to learn the skills needed by reading your books, if you did not have much money we would look through monthly magazines again if we could afford them, I used to go to the local library in the 80s and search for bonsai books and gardening books, gardening books are useful as the principles applied are very similar. I must admit I don’t have Azaleas in my collection, I do have a small leaf Rhododendron which is in bud for the second time this yearbut they are so beautiful in full flower. Thank you once again for your time and expertise.
Thank you for sharing, mr. Chan! I live in the Netherlands and I am growing and propagating Azalea's for quite a few years now, Satzuki's and common Azalea's (it doesn't matter that much to me, to be honest though It seems to me that common Azalea's can withstand frost better). My experience until now is slightly different. Propagating by heel cuttings, works great and is rather easy to do. I use a little bit of rooting powder by the way but I do not know if that is even necessary. Furthermore I certainly remove the flowers including the ovary: Azalea's respond very well to that. You can see (and you are showing it in the video), that when the flowering period ends, Azalea's start to grow very strongly: they are in their strongest growing period right after flowering. That is exactly the main reason why I prune and repot after flowering, simply because they are at their strongest then. My experience tells me that you can even take heel cuttings then (for the same reason), although I also take them in springtime. I often start wiring very young Azalea's because their twigs and branches very soon become to stiff. That works quite well, I can tell you! But I remove the wire quite soon because the wire can start to bite quickly. When the flower buds appear, I immediately stop fertilizing and when the flowers appear, I place them out of the direct, hot and strong sunlight and out of the rain. By doing so, you can enjoy the flowering for much longer, even for several weeks longer. That is my experience. After flowering (May/June), I cut the new shoots slightly and I restart fertilizing. Later on (about now), in late July and/or August, I again cut half of the new shoots. By doing so, you prevent those long and bare twigs and branches and you get nice, compact new growth. One of my latest projects: I started to wire rooted heel cuttings very soon (after repotting), some strongly, some just a bit. But I kept an eye on that wire to prevent biting. That way you can create very small shohin bonsaï and even mame bonsaï, for example as accent plants, in just two or three years! Really works great! It's rather funny or remarkable to see that very tiny little trees with relatively enormous flowers. It is rather time consuming, yes. But for us being hobbyists, that is rather a goal than a problem, isn't it? Big problem however, is water management. Mine are only getting the morning sunlight and I certainly keep them out of the hot midday summer sun. Being a "pensionado" (with a passion for - smaller - bonsaï), water management is hardly a problem. On warm or hot days however, I have to water two or even three times a day. In fact, Azalea's are rather easy to nurse, coming to think of it. And so, I welcomed this video a lot!
@@peterchan3100 You're very welcome, mr Chan! Because the growing force seems to be very strong at that time, I also feed heavily during that period. I use common bonsaï fertilizer (organic; pellets). For the (very) small ones/pots, I crush the pellets and so on. Additionally, I even give them a dilluted solution of liquid bonsaï fertilizer, two times a week (after all, especially very small pots do not take that much water and fertilizer). And, of course, I give lots of rainwater... I feed them untill late autumn. However, I should warn for a very common and understandable mistake. You can buy special fertilizer for Azalea's/Rhododendrons. But, using those in combination with special growing medium/soil for Azalea's (such as Kanuma), it all becomes too much and too acidic! Azalea's cannot cope with that combination: it's too much! Those special fertilizers are in fact meant for feeding Azalea's/Rhododendron that are planted in normal (garden or potting) soil (wich is in fact not acidic enough and limits the intake of food for these plants). My normal growing medium/soil for Azalea's is a mixture of special potting soil (garden centres and so on), mixed with Kanuma. That is a rather much cheaper combination and prevents the soil for drying out too quickly (which is a real danger during hot summer days!) and it still offers enough drainage. Azalea's really respond very well to that growing medium in these regions, I can ensure you! Furthermore: growing very small and tiny Azalea bonsaï (little Shohin or even Mame) is quite a challenge but offers really a lot of fun! And it is, in fact, quite cheap! If you can buy a few of those very little bonsaï pots... If you want me to, I could send you a few pictures of those very small ones per e-mail, just as examples. But of course, I don not want to be pushy. Keep up the good work, mr Chan!
@@MAMLeers Mily priteli, chybi mi jedina informace: kdy zacinaji satsuki nasazovat kvetni pupeny? Venkovni azaky(Azalea japonica) nasazuji v srpnu, pak uz nestriham nove prirustky. Ale Azalea indica simpsii a Satsuki to ma jiste jinak, musime je na zimu schovat do bezmraze mistnosti. Mam Satsuki malinke prvnim rokem, asi lonske rizkovance. Koupene s kvetem, spravne jsem zastrihla, silne obrostly, ale nevim, kdy prestat zakracovat nove vyhonky. Dekuji mockrat z CR.
I've just recently tried a few azalea cuttings using Peter Chan's instructions, and so far I have a good success rate. The latest cutting was done only a couple weeks ago, started in damp sphagnum moss, and it's already putting out a tiny branch with multiple tiny leaves. Since it's late July and it's roots are probably still very delicate, I wonder if I should leave it and pot it in February, or risk a late summer planting. Damp sphagnum moss has done wonders for many of my other plants, too. The parent azalea is about 20 years old and is a hybrid that blooms both spring and fall. Not sure if it was bred or grafted, so hopefully these cuttings will also bloom twice a year. Thank you, Peter, for your tremendous video library, and your vision to help others with your skill and knowledge.
I like azaleas but mine has completley brown leaves for a while now and didnt flower this year. Hasn´t improved at all in the last months. Put it in 100% spagnum moss, and keep it moist for now. Also used fertilizer. Let´s hope it will make a comeback.
If the roots are the problem then i would not use fertilizer, fertilizer can burn new roots and having it in moss is so you get new roots If the roots are healthy then the problem is something else and I would put it in some good compost,keep it out of the sun and wind while keeping it watered and letting it dry out on the surface between waterings Sometimes we kill plants with to much love and care
I have two nice satsuki's. One large and one small. The small one flowered abundantly this year, the best that it has ever been. The large one never flowered this year and only had one flower last year. Both are potted in kanuma and sphagnum moss, both kept on the same bench. I haver no idea why the larger of the two refuses to flower. If anyone has any ideas I would be grateful to hear your comments. A great video Peter. Thanks.
I'm hoping some yellowing and fall of inner leaves is normal. New growth is green and healthy. It's in kanuma and I do dose with sulphur chips and epsom salts because of my hard water.
I'd like to see some Persian Silk Tree (albizia julibrissin) in bonsai form, if Heron's has any. Some may consider this tree a nuisance invader, but both the blooms and leaves are so beautiful. The full adult form can reach 6-9 m tall here, and in full bloom they're stunning. (They’re on private property and I just drive by, I don’t have to live next door to them, so I don’t know if they actually are a nuisance.) I bought seeds to start indoors, and I currently have a dozen little seedlings, about 30 cm tall, in training pots. I plan to remove blooms (or net them to reap seeds) so they don’t get out of control. Otherwise, I'd like to train them into bonsai form.
Hi there, I’ve sent you a message on your Instagram regarding my bonsai tree. Would anyone be so kind to help me please. I have a bonsai tree I brought from you around 4-5 years ago. And sadly I think it’s struggling/dying. The leaves on the tree seem to be falling off very rapidly and the tree is almost bare with no leaves at all. The leaves are curling inwards and are just falling off the tree and going a light green/yellow colour. The tree is places in a light area with plenty of fresh air and watered daily. But some reason I can’t work out why it’s struggling. Would you take sometime with me today and give me some advice please. I’m more then happy to send some photos along with the enquiry. Thank you
Amazing Peter the advice you give is always sound, people today are so lucky they have the internet, RUclips etc and can get free teaching from bonsai masters such as your self, in our days the only access we had to learn the skills needed by reading your books, if you did not have much money we would look through monthly magazines again if we could afford them, I used to go to the local library in the 80s and search for bonsai books and gardening books, gardening books are useful as the principles applied are very similar.
I must admit I don’t have Azaleas in my collection, I do have a small leaf Rhododendron which is in bud for the second time this yearbut they are so beautiful in full flower. Thank you once again for your time and expertise.
Where do you live Joe?
If you are in the UK - please email our office and I will see what I can do for you.
It's amazing how labour intensive Bonsai is. You never get bored and always have something to do 😊
Thank you for sharing Peter
Beautiful selection of Azalea, thank you for another great video, always enjoyable and informative. Looking forward to the next one.
Absolutely lovely azaleas. Thank you Peter for sharing your knowledge.
Lovely video, the azalea flowers are just beautiful.
Thank you for sharing, mr. Chan! I live in the Netherlands and I am growing and propagating Azalea's for quite a few years now, Satzuki's and common Azalea's (it doesn't matter that much to me, to be honest though It seems to me that common Azalea's can withstand frost better). My experience until now is slightly different.
Propagating by heel cuttings, works great and is rather easy to do. I use a little bit of rooting powder by the way but I do not know if that is even necessary. Furthermore I certainly remove the flowers including the ovary: Azalea's respond very well to that. You can see (and you are showing it in the video), that when the flowering period ends, Azalea's start to grow very strongly: they are in their strongest growing period right after flowering. That is exactly the main reason why I prune and repot after flowering, simply because they are at their strongest then. My experience tells me that you can even take heel cuttings then (for the same reason), although I also take them in springtime. I often start wiring very young Azalea's because their twigs and branches very soon become to stiff. That works quite well, I can tell you! But I remove the wire quite soon because the wire can start to bite quickly. When the flower buds appear, I immediately stop fertilizing and when the flowers appear, I place them out of the direct, hot and strong sunlight and out of the rain. By doing so, you can enjoy the flowering for much longer, even for several weeks longer. That is my experience. After flowering (May/June), I cut the new shoots slightly and I restart fertilizing. Later on (about now), in late July and/or August, I again cut half of the new shoots. By doing so, you prevent those long and bare twigs and branches and you get nice, compact new growth.
One of my latest projects: I started to wire rooted heel cuttings very soon (after repotting), some strongly, some just a bit. But I kept an eye on that wire to prevent biting. That way you can create very small shohin bonsaï and even mame bonsaï, for example as accent plants, in just two or three years! Really works great! It's rather funny or remarkable to see that very tiny little trees with relatively enormous flowers. It is rather time consuming, yes. But for us being hobbyists, that is rather a goal than a problem, isn't it? Big problem however, is water management. Mine are only getting the morning sunlight and I certainly keep them out of the hot midday summer sun. Being a "pensionado" (with a passion for - smaller - bonsaï), water management is hardly a problem. On warm or hot days however, I have to water two or even three times a day.
In fact, Azalea's are rather easy to nurse, coming to think of it. And so, I welcomed this video a lot!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience - How about feeding ? I feed heavily after pruning off the dead flowers and unwanted branches.
@@peterchan3100 You're very welcome, mr Chan! Because the growing force seems to be very strong at that time, I also feed heavily during that period. I use common bonsaï fertilizer (organic; pellets). For the (very) small ones/pots, I crush the pellets and so on. Additionally, I even give them a dilluted solution of liquid bonsaï fertilizer, two times a week (after all, especially very small pots do not take that much water and fertilizer). And, of course, I give lots of rainwater... I feed them untill late autumn.
However, I should warn for a very common and understandable mistake. You can buy special fertilizer for Azalea's/Rhododendrons. But, using those in combination with special growing medium/soil for Azalea's (such as Kanuma), it all becomes too much and too acidic! Azalea's cannot cope with that combination: it's too much! Those special fertilizers are in fact meant for feeding Azalea's/Rhododendron that are planted in normal (garden or potting) soil (wich is in fact not acidic enough and limits the intake of food for these plants).
My normal growing medium/soil for Azalea's is a mixture of special potting soil (garden centres and so on), mixed with Kanuma. That is a rather much cheaper combination and prevents the soil for drying out too quickly (which is a real danger during hot summer days!) and it still offers enough drainage. Azalea's really respond very well to that growing medium in these regions, I can ensure you!
Furthermore: growing very small and tiny Azalea bonsaï (little Shohin or even Mame) is quite a challenge but offers really a lot of fun! And it is, in fact, quite cheap! If you can buy a few of those very little bonsaï pots... If you want me to, I could send you a few pictures of those very small ones per e-mail, just as examples. But of course, I don not want to be pushy. Keep up the good work, mr Chan!
@@MAMLeers
Mily priteli, chybi mi jedina informace: kdy zacinaji satsuki nasazovat kvetni pupeny?
Venkovni azaky(Azalea japonica) nasazuji v srpnu, pak uz nestriham nove prirustky. Ale Azalea indica simpsii a Satsuki to ma jiste jinak, musime je na zimu schovat do bezmraze mistnosti.
Mam Satsuki malinke prvnim rokem, asi lonske rizkovance. Koupene s kvetem, spravne jsem zastrihla, silne obrostly, ale nevim, kdy prestat zakracovat nove vyhonky.
Dekuji mockrat z CR.
Love the drill idea !!!! Thank you❤
Just remember not to go through the pot like I did once 😂..thx for sharing Peter
I've just recently tried a few azalea cuttings using Peter Chan's instructions, and so far I have a good success rate. The latest cutting was done only a couple weeks ago, started in damp sphagnum moss, and it's already putting out a tiny branch with multiple tiny leaves. Since it's late July and it's roots are probably still very delicate, I wonder if I should leave it and pot it in February, or risk a late summer planting. Damp sphagnum moss has done wonders for many of my other plants, too. The parent azalea is about 20 years old and is a hybrid that blooms both spring and fall. Not sure if it was bred or grafted, so hopefully these cuttings will also bloom twice a year. Thank you, Peter, for your tremendous video library, and your vision to help others with your skill and knowledge.
You can pot them up now.
@@peterchan3100 Thanks so much - I did that today.
Very nice!!! Beautiful! ❤💮💮💮
they all have beautiful moss. what soil mix is used for your azaelea? nice vid
👍👌🙂
I like azaleas but mine has completley brown leaves for a while now and didnt flower this year. Hasn´t improved at all in the last months. Put it in 100% spagnum moss, and keep it moist for now. Also used fertilizer.
Let´s hope it will make a comeback.
If the roots are the problem then i would not use fertilizer, fertilizer can burn new roots and having it in moss is so you get new roots
If the roots are healthy then the problem is something else and I would put it in some good compost,keep it out of the sun and wind while keeping it watered and letting it dry out on the surface between waterings
Sometimes we kill plants with to much love and care
Podle meho ucitele je nutne azalky nejem casto hnijit, ale strikat proti houbovitym chorobam, ty zpusobuji hnednuti listu
My azaleas died this exceptionally hot summer 😢 I had them for 3 years now, they weren’t satsuki but had beautiful flowers
Mine did too 😢
I have two nice satsuki's. One large and one small. The small one flowered abundantly this year, the best that it has ever been. The large one never flowered this year and only had one flower last year. Both are potted in kanuma and sphagnum moss, both kept on the same bench. I haver no idea why the larger of the two refuses to flower. If anyone has any ideas I would be grateful to hear your comments. A great video Peter. Thanks.
Did you prune the large one hard? Try feeding heavily after flowering to induce flower buds for next year.
I'm hoping some yellowing and fall of inner leaves is normal. New growth is green and healthy. It's in kanuma and I do dose with sulphur chips and epsom salts because of my hard water.
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I'd like to see some Persian Silk Tree (albizia julibrissin) in bonsai form, if Heron's has any. Some may consider this tree a nuisance invader, but both the blooms and leaves are so beautiful. The full adult form can reach 6-9 m tall here, and in full bloom they're stunning. (They’re on private property and I just drive by, I don’t have to live next door to them, so I don’t know if they actually are a nuisance.) I bought seeds to start indoors, and I currently have a dozen little seedlings, about 30 cm tall, in training pots. I plan to remove blooms (or net them to reap seeds) so they don’t get out of control. Otherwise, I'd like to train them into bonsai form.
Albizia doesnt grow well in England - it's too cold here for it. I have seen some nice ones in the tropics.
@@peterchan3100 I'll try to look again for those images/ videos. Thanks for your responses!
I think do you have lots of work to do all the time, how many people help you ??, maybe can I help too, !!?? 😊
We do have volunteers in the Summer, enquire if you are interested - email our office
Peter Can you make a movie from a mammothree
What is the botanical name of this tree please?
@@peterchan3100 sequoia ( genus )
Hi there, I’ve sent you a message on your Instagram regarding my bonsai tree. Would anyone be so kind to help me please.
I have a bonsai tree I brought from you around 4-5 years ago. And sadly I think it’s struggling/dying.
The leaves on the tree seem to be falling off very rapidly and the tree is almost bare with no leaves at all.
The leaves are curling inwards and are just falling off the tree and going a light green/yellow colour.
The tree is places in a light area with plenty of fresh air and watered daily. But some reason I can’t work out why it’s struggling.
Would you take sometime with me today and give me some advice please. I’m more then happy to send some photos along with the enquiry.
Thank you
please send some photos to sales@herons.co.uk and we will respond as best we can, thanks
Seasons all over the world are weird now. I think it's from all the weather modification the governments are doing without anyone's consent...