Shop Miscellany #25
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- Опубликовано: 16 сен 2024
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Punches: amzn.to/3AUGIr5
Please Note: I am a beginning machinist and I do not pretend to know everything. Please always operate machinery in a safe manner and if you don't know, find a reliable source. DO NOT COPY ME. I make a lot of mistakes. I provide these videos for entertainment only.
Good one Rob . Cheers 👍
Thanks, Max.
You don't need a carbide drill for that just a good quality HHS drill and slow your rpm down because you probably are work hardening them because of the thin wall and use water soluble coolent in a bottle with a small stream faster you can drill the better so to have chip retain most of the heat, but hay what do I know that's just my 2 cents and it might be a bit pricey
Thanks for taking the time to help me and others out with your comments. I was running at 180 RPM, for reference.
Buy nice or buy twice as Joe says. I’ve finally learned my lesson on import tools. They are not all junk but it’s best to pick and choose carefully.
For 300 series stainless - a HSS bit will be fine but it MUST be sharp. 300 series work hardens in an instant so you must keep cutting and then pull out fast. Coolant is extremely beneficial. I think your rpms were too high since you burned out a carbide drill so quickly. I think a little slower rpms and coolant and you’d have been golden. The only issue I have on 300 stainless is when I try and use blunt drills. 😊
Nice review on the punches - I’ll get a set of the good ones.
I’ll post a note of the best inserts I’ve found for stainless later just as an FYI. I’ve turned a fair bit of it now.
Whoops! TL;DR. 😂
Thank you. Thank you. I really appreciate the tips. I was running at 180 rpm, if that helps putting things in perspective. I definitely learned the hard in and quick out solution to drilling. Again, thanks.
I have the same Neiko brand of transfer punches. They have held up well over the years. 102 is a little toasty in the shop.
Going to pick me up a set too. 102 right😮? So glad I have AC! Oof!
Yea, toasty to say the least. Good info on the transfer punches. The HF ones weren't worth the coin.
Neiko digital caliper are pertty good for the money 6" around 25bucks..great video, keep'um coming.
Thanks. Good info on the calipers.
Your new surface gauge looks like it may too be a Starrett. The older ones did not have markings on the base. Check the rod for the Starrett name. I don't think the roll pins were Starrett original. Could you show friction pins in the new gauge in another video? Mine are missing, and I would like to make them Thanks another great video.
It might be. There was some text on the base that was barely visible. I will try to remember to show the pins in my next video, but if I forget, they are steel pins with a central relief that contains a brass expanded sleeve.
The roll pins in the Starrett base are not original, they should be more like the ones in the base that you cleaned up.
Good to know. Thank you. They definitely seemed kind of hinkey.
Don't harbor hate for harbor freight just because you fell for their bate.
Nice rhyme. I know that buying from the freight, isn't always great, but risk the loss, cus I am the boss (of no one).
You really need to use coolent, You're really getting too hot.
I have never filled my coolant tank on the lathe, even though I keep coming upon instances where it would really help things.
You're getting those ugly parting leftovers even with an angled leading edge? I just ordered some 75 degree (well, 15 degrees off of square) angled leading edge specifically to get cleaner parting.
I have never had great success, even with angled parting tooling, but I am sure I am doing something wrong. Joe Pieczynski has demonstrated a working solution on multiple vidoes.
@@DudleyToolwright It's the radius on the corner of the insert . The thin ring gets pushed off & the ring stays on the finished part . A tool that has a sharp corner & angled front will sort it . Radius on the stock side is ok but not on the finished part side . I just put up with it as it restricts the parting tool's use . Best to grind up a couple of HSS blades for left & right parting . I also use my parting tool for heavy stock removal between shoulders , so i want the front of the tool flat not at an angle . 👍
what doing dose pins in your surface gauge ?
cheers
ben
They square the tool to an edge.
As the other reply mentioned, the let you set up a square edge in any of the perpendicular directions.