Fritz is on top of his game!!! He really enjoys what he does and he takes criticism really well. He is not afraid to admit when he is wrong and he will not hesitate in making a change for the better. We put a lot of time and money in making these videos and I am glad that everyone is enjoying them!! So sit back and wait because there is more to come!!!
Eddie, Great video.. I know this video is over 4 yrs old. I had my reservations about dye testing. But after watching,I am going to get me a kit. Your videos are very informative, I wish you start making them again
Hey Eddie, I have not gone with the dye yet the only problem I see with it is that you need to see the area for traces of dye, I had a line set leaking in the wall from drywall screw, I poked a hole in the wall and stuck the sniffer in and found it never would have with dye but it looks like it works really cool on the coils.
Eddie thanks again for my weekend class. I personally stopped using dye years ago.too messy, and hiding under a black tarp squinting to look for leaks on the condensing unit in 100 degree heat was not my cup o tea lol! I start with a sniffer and verify with ultrasonic. But over all leak detection is my least favorite part of the trade.
Hey Eddie, Great tutorial video brother !! Haven't used dye in a long time, but do agree, it does sell itself and gives the homeowner a birds eye view of what you're saying. I most often use the bubbles and sniffer, but would/will use dye if needed on a perticular job. Take care.
That was a good question! I had to make some calls in order to get this right myself and this is what I found out.. Adding dye to a system is not considered contamination only if you mix different refrigerants.. Thanks for watching and the good question!!
Hello Eddie you've seen my comment's on fritz's channel no doubt another great master it his craft and a great personality too! Lol I'm no HVAC tech but my first job was basically helping one that was and he was as professional as it got!!! Times and equipment have changed a lot since my younger day's in doing that! I enjoy watching you guy's share many new idea's and the tools of the trade and believe me it's relief as a person who's a somewhat better informed on the consumer side of thing's
Any time I can help just give me a shout. My main goal is to help everyone that I can but my main emphasis is always going to be on safety. I dont want anybody getting hurt out there. You really need to have the basic HVAC tools in order to make sure that you are going to be safe while working on it and to make sure that everything is functioning the way it should.
Hey Eddie, great vid! I have a similar set up for dye but it has a 12v torch, runs off a sla battery or one of my makitas if its gone flat! Wise words on the gloves, the stuff gets everywhere! We've found leaks on a weld on a drier, the plug on the back of a sightglass and round compressor terminal amongst other places with it, its great for finding awkward leaks. Mostly we use it on vehicle air con.
Excellent job on the video! Thanks for reminding techs to "keep it honest" maybe we'll see less of these hidden camera investigative reports like this one on 07/10/2012 by NBC’s Jeff Rossen, it's titled " Rossen Reports: Are air-conditioning repairers being competent and honest? In a hidden-camera investigation, 6 out of 6 tried to charge for unnecessary work "
I have used a ultra sonic and they work well. I don't know about hearing through drywall though because I have never tried. I have some guys at work that use them regularly so I will ask them.
Hi Eddie, thank you so much for the best videos on this topic! I wish you were in the Los Angeles area so I could hire you! My Carrier, which was installed 16 years ago, has a leak--first problem since installation. The copper pipes to the unit look suspicious, as if they were not properly brazed during installation. I wish I could send a picture. I am considering getting the UV dye to check if it leaks there. The electronic sniffer does not have a consistent read whether or not there is a problem there. I would be interested in your comment, but I don't think I have a specific question about this.
They are all mini split systems over here so usually its out with the sniffer and if that fails its reco the gas, nitrogen and sniffer and bubble spray, if still nothing then i'd go with dye. On bigger vrf/vrv systems they generally have an oil seperator so the dye wouldn't make round the system too well, then its a case of pressure testing in sections. I use the dye more on farm stuff, great for finding leaks in tanks, i think i have a vid of me finding a leaky txv and schrader core.
Dang, nice clean coil with a hole in it. Most I look at have more hair than my dog. But I do a lot of rentals. Thanks for the vid, get stuff as always .
Dye will not work good in a sealed cavity but other than that it does pretty good and when the homeowner can see for themselves where the leak is it makes them a lot more confident.
I wish you were in Norwalk, OH-here's why: My 3-year-old C/A wasn't cooling. I called the company that installed it. He added 3 lbs. 8 oz. R410A and 3 oz. dye. He replaced Schrader valves and leak locked caps. (High side was leaking). 2 Weeks later it wasn't cooling. He came back-found leak from Schrader valve on evaporator- he leak locked cap, added 4 lbs. R410A and tightened Schrader valves outside again and leak locked caps. Do you think this guy was incompetent, Eddie?
I will add that to my list of to do videos ;) I know that your probably sick of hearing this but if you have never figured a heat load on the house then that is going to be the first place to start when trying to determine the proper size equipment.
I have an H10 and what you have to do when looking for a leak on 410 is turn it over, turn the dial to 12 o'clock and put it on the small setting. It wont find it in medium.
Great Job on VID! I put my own Trane In,,Even before I Put the siding on my House,,But I Built a Post and Beam,,NO Nails,all Peged, and My good friend got me all at cost, BBut,I also have Stress Skin Panels On the House,So the siding is for show! Keep forgeting to tell that, I got a tini Leak,did all you did,as did my Buddy,and Once every 5 years, If it were a car type can,it would take a 1/4 of a can,If that!, We gave up. so 4 times in 15 years,a squirt,out of the30#er!,Jack,Thanks for showing
Hey Eddie !!! Damn Great Tutorial Brother !!! I have Never done a Dye Test , Thank You for Demonstration !!! Eddie I may have to get you to do my Dye Test , unless they sell the Cleaner the 55 gallon Drum , cause I would look like the Green Giant when I would get done .LOL ... If I had Hair I would Have it in it !!! ROFL ... Great Job , Great Video , Great Narration !!!
I was told by the Rheem service department that your not permitted to use dye in their systems. The only systems that permit dye to be injected is Trane and American standard. Have you heard the same Eddie? Because I've been doing it for years now
I've used the dye on car AC and engine cooling systems before. It is messy on the hands. Could you make a video on what it takes to size a heat pump when upgrading from a split AC system. Thanks..
So how do you evacuate the UV dye from the system?? , will it go back into my bottle of refrigerant? when i reclaim the system and if so is this a safe mix?
I took the temp of the condenser fan and it was about 2 degrees warmer then outside it was 76 that day I wonder if it is taking much air out of my house our house is about 3700 sq ft
Ive never used the Yellow Jacket but in the instructions it says (When charging the first time, rotate applicator dialer 1/2 turn counter clockwise.) Did you make sure to do that?
hi ! i just bought a yellow jacket dye inyector, i followed the instructions, i'am letting the aire went out the house, but when i'am trying to inyect the dye to the system running, the flange wont move.. do you know what i'am doing wrong??
Hey Boss (Question).or two When Using this dye when or if you recover it and send it to whom ever for recycle or reclaim Would it be considered contaminated ??? Or is it only considered contaminated when two refrigerants are mixed??? Anyway thanks for sharing I have never used this Dye before...
Nice work..,let me ask you something when we put the dye in the system for how many hours or days we have to wait to be detected the leak..??The unit must work during that or it doesnt matter??
Hi Eddie... Nice presentation but I decided to write because I see a lot of extra work and wasted money on products like dye. Additionally, I like to remind that dye replaces freon space so you are reducing cooling efficiency. Why take all this time to find out details on a leak especially when you have to come back days later... you already know a leak exists? Likewise, why do you need to find it? If it is so small you do not see it easily or a gas fill was not done recently, then it is a potential candidate for an internal repair. I know, I know, every one is yelling already. I can hear them saying... never use stop leaks. Well honestly I agree, if you are using the wrong one. I unfortunately see a lot of technicians still believe all A/C additives seal in the presence of moisture... well they are correct if you consider the most popular brands at local supply houses. So your question is... Which do not? Well the correct answer is based on knowing the difference between Polymer and Non Polymer chemical nature, really no opinions here, just a simple black and white answer. Remember that technology changes... and the chemical marketplace has done so at a faster rate than most all other sciences. For example, some of the special proprietary oils we use today are less than 5 years old. Fact... If a product is based on polymerization chemistry then it hardens by moisture, period, no options. If on the other hand it’s a NON polymer, then it is impossible for product to harden by moisture or anything else. You honestly need to know what you are buying or dealing with, before you can compare or criticize the whole industry. The word Stop Leak is the real problem here, truthfully it is just too generic. Maybe we should sell ours using a name like Nano or Micron Particulate AC Treatment and Conditioner, so it would be easier to determine which one is safe? Techs need to get the idea of clogging out of the equation, because our Nano/Micron particulates cannot clog or block flow in ANY a/c systems. It is IMPOSSIBLE! Why? The fact is they are not ACTIVATED or MANUFACTURED inside the unit, even if moisture is present. Not sure why but this is still the number one misunderstanding espoused by A/C RUclips videos and comments on blogs. To clarify, our fixed sized 1 to 20 micron solids are made in our factory and then added to our patented oils, in sizes that are too small to clog any system component or recycle machine. You simply inject our special proprietary oils into a system so that the embedded micron particulate circulates and flows continuously. They never change, they never stick together, they never get bigger, they simply circulate and fill tiny holes that match each particulates unique size. That's it, it's just that simple. So now that we have established our product does not damage or clog A/C systems… Do we settle with just fixing leaks? What about improving the overall performance of an older system? How about when a customer just has to keep a unit running for another few years? Even if changing a part is required to keep it running, how do you rejuvenate the rest of the system to match ??? Well now you have ACT, a treatment with several proprietary oils that modify the way the system operates! These are not available in any other single configuration, here is what they do, automatically, invisibly... Professional R22/410 HVAC Conditioning Treatment (A.C.T. tm) 1. Lower Vent Temperatures 2. Clean Restrictive Oil Fouling 3. Kill Acid that Creates Pin Holes 4. Convert Free Moisture in the System 5. Rejuvenate Rubber Seals and Gaskets 6. Super Lubricate the Compressor Bearings 7. Seal Micron Size Leaks in Metal Components 8. Reduce compressor's power draw (lowers amps) Think about this, how would you address all of these important issues? Unfortunately you can't... because it would be impossible due to time constraints, just to costly for the consumer. If you think this is important, like you're customer would, you can make it happen in just 30 seconds. The best part... your total investment is under $25 per unit, less cost than a pound of wasted dye or lost freon. Thanks for your thoughts and questions. We are always happy to talk and even get techs some product to test, if they are ready to move to newer technology. Check out this page when you have a chance... stop HVAC leak. com
The ozone is going but remember residential is only a small segment of the refrigeration industry. Some systems hold 50,000 lbs r22 and when a fork truck hits a pipe 10,000 lbs are lost before it is isolated ... Not too many of those old recirc systems out there anymore.....502 and 12 were the really bad ones and thank goodness they are almost all gone.I believe window units also were junked and never reclaimed . The tech had no control over that one either .....
***** I know .but they claim freon mixes with air and makes its way to the upper atmosphere ... I know that doesn't make sense either because freon is heavier than air. R22 has hydrogen that causes it to break apart in the lower atmosphere resulting in less damage to the ozone... You are right, because chlorine is the culprit.. not freon.. Good comment . Why doesn't chlorine make it to the upper atmosphere without the freon??? Maybe it does..not sure myself
What is your opinion about dye voiding warranties and/or damaging compressor valves? I have to check a coil Friday and don't want to misdiagnose/replace the evaporator then find out it was in the condenser. Major FUBAR!
Thanks Eddie, Not to many are honest as you are. Question, Is posible for a Air conditioner 23 years old, running good...to be low in refrigerant or freeon.? If so, can you explain why.
The unit will cool until the refrigerant in the evaporator coil reaches the freezing point, once it reaches that point then the evaporator coil will begin to freeze then its over. so a unit can be 1/2 lb low or so a still cool but its going to run all of the time and it will cost you more on you utility bill. That's it in a nut shell anyways
Thank you Eddie, A so call Air conditioner tech, check the freon and leaks, he didn't find any, instead he was trying to create one, anyway the reading was 30 psig and the other 160, he said the unit was short in freon about six pounds. I google after he left and I found it wasn't the true. So, you said is about a 1/2 or 1 pound that it needs. Thanks,
Wei Mario Chau Either you've got a freak for an air conditioner or someone's not being accurate with the refrigerant readings. there's no way that an air conditioner is going to cool at 30lbs of pressure Go to the outdoor unit and locate the two copper tubes that are attached to it. feel the larger tube, it should be cold. Find the sticker that is attached to the air conditioner with all of the ratings. locate refrigerant type it will be either r-22 or r-410a, off to the right of that will tell you how much refrigerant was installed by the mfg.
You don't need to measure fan motor temp to determine if air conditioner is working properly . I think at this point you should really call someone out to make sure everything is fine. If you need help trying to find someone that is reliable let me know and I will try to help you find some one, just let me know what city your in.
Always use the electronic sniffer first before you put a solution on it also you may need to run the unit without the fan for small leaks your not helping a customer by bandaging a unit and look at your temps before you put your gauges on you should know by temp
Most leak detectors as long as you keep them up ie change the diode and stuff will find a problem replace the coil don't fix a broke coil you will chase that forever isolation tests will ferret this out much faster and we salve the problem now not in two weeks
MrAever I agree with you on this. I keep dye on my truck and will use it when the homeowner requests it. I will also use it if i feel the homeowner is feeling a little sketchy about what I'm telling them, again i'm about using all of the visual aids that I can, it really does make a bug difference
Locking caps do not stop schrader valve cores from leaking, that is insanity. That's just the core inside that has a rubber gasket that wears out. That cap is not designed to stop refrigerant to stop leaking, that seat has NO RUBBER GASKET. You have to replace the schrader core. All you're doing is slowing the rate coming out of the cap so the leak detector can not pick it up. Infrared leak detector it detects a CHANGE in concentration and also the wand must keep moving. Everyone watching this, he is WRONG. We copper braze a sealed joint to prevent a system from leaking. With how large the leaks on the coil were a decent electronic leak detector should have picked that up. UV dye is a last resort. But maybe that was just a demonstration so I can't criticize that but the misinformation on the caps is pretty bad.
Fritz is on top of his game!!! He really enjoys what he does and he takes criticism really well. He is not afraid to admit when he is wrong and he will not hesitate in making a change for the better.
We put a lot of time and money in making these videos and I am glad that everyone is enjoying them!!
So sit back and wait because there is more to come!!!
Nice video Eddie! Thanks for taking the time to show everyone the proper procedures!
Eddie, Great video.. I know this video is over 4 yrs old. I had my reservations about dye testing. But after watching,I am going to get me a kit. Your videos are very informative, I wish you start making them again
Hey Eddie, I have not gone with the dye yet the only problem I see with it is that you need to see the area for traces of dye, I had a line set leaking in the wall from drywall screw, I poked a hole in the wall and stuck the sniffer in and found it never would have with dye but it looks like it works really cool on the coils.
Eddie thanks again for my weekend class. I personally stopped using dye years ago.too messy, and hiding under a black tarp squinting to look for leaks on the condensing unit in 100 degree heat was not my cup o tea lol! I start with a sniffer and verify with ultrasonic. But over all leak detection is my least favorite part of the trade.
Thanks for posting Sir. I had a leak and this helped me understand the process a bit.
Very thorow presentation. Honest and credible!
Great demostration! Sharing with my buddies. Thanks.
Thank you for letting me know what to do I will call my air conditioner tech to come out to take a look thanks again I appreciate it a lot
Hey Eddie, Great tutorial video brother !! Haven't used dye in a long time, but do agree, it does sell itself and gives the homeowner a birds eye view of what you're saying. I most often use the bubbles and sniffer, but would/will use dye if needed on a perticular job. Take care.
i hate to have to track down refrigerant leaks...makes me want to dunk the system in a swimming pool and look for bubbles LOL
That was a good question!
I had to make some calls in order to get this right myself and this is what I found out..
Adding dye to a system is not considered contamination only if you mix different refrigerants..
Thanks for watching and the good question!!
Eddie, That was a great video. Great job explaining leak detection. I will say I dont use a lot of dye, but you may change my mind! Wonderful demo.
Thanks!!!
Give it a try I think you will like using this test. I like being able to give the homeowner a visual of the leak.
Thank you for taking yoir time to do this very informative video. It was very good and to the point and I learned few things. Many blessings
Hello Eddie you've seen my comment's on fritz's channel no doubt another great master it his craft and a great personality too! Lol I'm no HVAC tech but my first job was basically helping one that was and he was as professional as it got!!! Times and equipment have changed a lot since my younger day's in doing that! I enjoy watching you guy's share many new idea's and the tools of the trade and believe me it's relief as a person who's a somewhat better informed on the consumer side of thing's
Any time I can help just give me a shout.
My main goal is to help everyone that I can but my main emphasis is always going to be on safety. I dont want anybody getting hurt out there. You really need to have the basic HVAC tools in order to make sure that you are going to be safe while working on it and to make sure that everything is functioning the way it should.
Thanks Fritz!!
It's really not all that messy if you take your time..
Great video Eddie from the look of that it was gone, looks like it came out a gas unit.
Awesome vid!
Thanks Eddie... ::thumbs up.
very informative. Thank you.
Good video man!!!
Hey Eddie, great vid!
I have a similar set up for dye but it has a 12v torch, runs off a sla battery or one of my makitas if its gone flat! Wise words on the gloves, the stuff gets everywhere!
We've found leaks on a weld on a drier, the plug on the back of a sightglass and round compressor terminal amongst other places with it, its great for finding awkward leaks. Mostly we use it on vehicle air con.
Thank you this video helped
great stuff as always
Good job 👍
Excellent job on the video! Thanks for reminding techs to "keep it honest" maybe we'll see less of these hidden camera investigative reports like this one on 07/10/2012 by NBC’s Jeff Rossen, it's titled " Rossen Reports: Are air-conditioning repairers being competent and honest? In a hidden-camera investigation, 6 out of 6 tried to charge for unnecessary work "
Hey Eddie sure miss seeing your HVAC videos man. I hope all is well. Tell Fritz the same. You are both the real deal HVAC guys. Peace Man \m/\m/..
I agree with it being the least favorite thing to do and luckly I don't have to leak test very often.
Thank You!!
I have used a ultra sonic and they work well. I don't know about hearing through drywall though because I have never tried. I have some guys at work that use them regularly so I will ask them.
Hi Eddie, thank you so much for the best videos on this topic! I wish you were in the Los Angeles area so I could hire you! My Carrier, which was installed 16 years ago, has a leak--first problem since installation. The copper pipes to the unit look suspicious, as if they were not properly brazed during installation. I wish I could send a picture. I am considering getting the UV dye to check if it leaks there. The electronic sniffer does not have a consistent read whether or not there is a problem there. I would be interested in your comment, but I don't think I have a specific question about this.
Thanks!!!
They are all mini split systems over here so usually its out with the sniffer and if that fails its reco the gas, nitrogen and sniffer and bubble spray, if still nothing then i'd go with dye.
On bigger vrf/vrv systems they generally have an oil seperator so the dye wouldn't make round the system too well, then its a case of pressure testing in sections.
I use the dye more on farm stuff, great for finding leaks in tanks, i think i have a vid of me finding a leaky txv and schrader core.
Dang, nice clean coil with a hole in it. Most I look at have more hair than my dog. But I do a lot of rentals.
Thanks for the vid, get stuff as always .
Great video, just wandering can you add this and or the leak sealer as a preventative maintenance on an older systems?
Dye will not work good in a sealed cavity but other than that it does pretty good and when the homeowner can see for themselves where the leak is it makes them a lot more confident.
I wish you were in Norwalk, OH-here's why: My 3-year-old C/A wasn't cooling. I called the company that installed it. He added 3 lbs. 8 oz. R410A and 3 oz. dye. He replaced Schrader valves and leak locked caps. (High side was leaking). 2 Weeks later it wasn't cooling. He came back-found leak from Schrader valve on evaporator- he leak locked cap, added 4 lbs. R410A and tightened Schrader valves outside again and leak locked caps. Do you think this guy was incompetent, Eddie?
I will add that to my list of to do videos ;)
I know that your probably sick of hearing this but if you have never figured a heat load on the house then that is going to be the first place to start when trying to determine the proper size equipment.
I have an H10 and what you have to do when looking for a leak on 410 is turn it over, turn the dial to 12 o'clock and put it on the small setting. It wont find it in medium.
Great Job on VID! I put my own Trane In,,Even before I Put the siding on my House,,But I Built a Post and Beam,,NO Nails,all Peged, and My good friend got me all at cost, BBut,I also have Stress Skin Panels On the House,So the siding is for show! Keep forgeting to tell that, I got a tini Leak,did all you did,as did my Buddy,and Once every 5 years, If it were a car type can,it would take a 1/4 of a can,If that!, We gave up. so 4 times in 15 years,a squirt,out of the30#er!,Jack,Thanks for showing
Hey Eddie !!!
Damn Great Tutorial Brother !!!
I have Never done a Dye Test , Thank You for Demonstration !!!
Eddie I may have to get you to do my Dye Test , unless they sell the Cleaner the 55 gallon Drum , cause I would look like the Green Giant when I would get done .LOL ...
If I had Hair I would Have it in it !!! ROFL ...
Great Job , Great Video , Great Narration !!!
I was told by the Rheem service department that your not permitted to use dye in their systems. The only systems that permit dye to be injected is Trane and American standard. Have you heard the same Eddie? Because I've been doing it for years now
Good video. Im going to start refrigeration soon. How do you feel about the R600a?
Interesting, very interesting. The dye hard to clean off your hands?
I've used the dye on car AC and engine cooling systems before. It is messy on the hands. Could you make a video on what it takes to size a heat pump when upgrading from a split AC system. Thanks..
Wash it with Brake Cleaner Spray. It does really well.
How long is required for the dye to circulate before looking for the leak? I bought the same spectroline kit but it has no instructions.
So how do you evacuate the UV dye from the system?? , will it go back
into my bottle of refrigerant? when i reclaim the system and if so is
this a safe mix?
Do you have the unit off or on when you inject the dye???
I took the temp of the condenser fan and it was about 2 degrees warmer then outside it was 76 that day I wonder if it is taking much air out of my house our house is about 3700 sq ft
Ive never used the Yellow Jacket but in the instructions it says (When charging the first time, rotate applicator dialer 1/2 turn counter clockwise.)
Did you make sure to do that?
Have you used a ultra sonic leak detector? I have an apt where the lines run down the inside of the wall and suspect a leak in the wall.
what method do you use to check out door unit when it is light outside?
you can do this quicker and cost more but isolation tests will work well
Whats your preferred method on split systems ?
What a great idea!! lol
can this die kit be used with r410a with suction side pressures of around 150psi?
locating r-410a is a tricky task!!!
make sure to keep plenty of gloves to prevent the mess on you .. lol
hi ! i just bought a yellow jacket dye inyector, i followed the instructions, i'am letting the aire went out the house, but when i'am trying to inyect the dye to the system running, the flange wont move.. do you know what i'am doing wrong??
You turned counter clockwise to turn off the suction side. I thought it would be just the opposite.?
Thanks
I have an air conditioner that is not too cold maybe about 60 degrees is this ok?
Hey Boss (Question).or two
When Using this dye when or if you recover it and send it to whom ever for recycle or reclaim
Would it be considered contaminated ???
Or is it only considered contaminated when two refrigerants are mixed???
Anyway thanks for sharing I have never used this Dye before...
WE use these at ICEE, the dye that is.
Get a heavy tarp that you can drape over the unit and go hunting!
I use a sniffer though!!
Have you tried the "Stop Leak" chemicals, do they work?
My Pleasure !
Thanks for watching!!
Thanks for watching..
I'm not sure what this coil came off from it was sitting at the office waiting to get sent back for warranty..
Thanks for commenting!!
Nice work..,let me ask you something when we put the dye in the system for how many hours or days we have to wait to be detected the leak..??The unit must work during that or it doesnt matter??
Yes the unit needs to run for a bit.
larger leaks you can start looking in about 30 minutes on smaller leaks I would run for at least three days
Very helpful, thanks a lot!
Hi Eddie... Nice presentation but I decided to write because I see a lot of extra work and wasted money on products like dye. Additionally, I like to remind that dye replaces freon space so you are reducing cooling efficiency. Why take all this time to find out details on a leak especially when you have to come back days later... you already know a leak exists? Likewise, why do you need to find it? If it is so small you do not see it easily or a gas fill was not done recently, then it is a potential candidate for an internal repair.
I know, I know, every one is yelling already. I can hear them saying... never use stop leaks. Well honestly I agree, if you are using the wrong one. I unfortunately see a lot of technicians still believe all A/C additives seal in the presence of moisture... well they are correct if you consider the most popular brands at local supply houses.
So your question is... Which do not?
Well the correct answer is based on knowing the difference between Polymer and Non Polymer chemical nature, really no opinions here, just a simple black and white answer. Remember that technology changes... and the chemical marketplace has done so at a faster rate than most all other sciences. For example, some of the special proprietary oils we use today are less than 5 years old.
Fact... If a product is based on polymerization chemistry then it hardens by moisture, period, no options. If on the other hand it’s a NON polymer, then it is impossible for product to harden by moisture or anything else. You honestly need to know what you are buying or dealing with, before you can compare or criticize the whole industry.
The word Stop Leak is the real problem here, truthfully it is just too generic. Maybe we should sell ours using a name like Nano or Micron Particulate AC Treatment and Conditioner, so it would be easier to determine which one is safe?
Techs need to get the idea of clogging out of the equation, because our Nano/Micron particulates cannot clog or block flow in ANY a/c systems. It is IMPOSSIBLE! Why? The fact is they are not ACTIVATED or MANUFACTURED inside the unit, even if moisture is present. Not sure why but this is still the number one misunderstanding espoused by A/C RUclips videos and comments on blogs.
To clarify, our fixed sized 1 to 20 micron solids are made in our factory and then added to our patented oils, in sizes that are too small to clog any system component or recycle machine. You simply inject our special proprietary oils into a system so that the embedded micron particulate circulates and flows continuously. They never change, they never stick together, they never get bigger, they simply circulate and fill tiny holes that match each particulates unique size. That's it, it's just that simple.
So now that we have established our product does not damage or clog A/C systems… Do we settle with just fixing leaks? What about improving the overall performance of an older system? How about when a customer just has to keep a unit running for another few years?
Even if changing a part is required to keep it running, how do you rejuvenate the rest of the system to match ???
Well now you have ACT, a treatment with several proprietary oils that modify the way the system operates! These are not available in any other single configuration, here is what they do, automatically, invisibly...
Professional R22/410 HVAC Conditioning Treatment (A.C.T. tm)
1. Lower Vent Temperatures
2. Clean Restrictive Oil Fouling
3. Kill Acid that Creates Pin Holes
4. Convert Free Moisture in the System
5. Rejuvenate Rubber Seals and Gaskets
6. Super Lubricate the Compressor Bearings
7. Seal Micron Size Leaks in Metal Components
8. Reduce compressor's power draw (lowers amps)
Think about this, how would you address all of these important issues? Unfortunately you can't... because it would be impossible due to time constraints, just to costly for the consumer.
If you think this is important, like you're customer would, you can make it happen in just 30 seconds. The best part... your total investment is under $25 per unit, less cost than a pound of wasted dye or lost freon.
Thanks for your thoughts and questions. We are always happy to talk and even get techs some product to test, if they are ready to move to newer technology. Check out this page when you have a chance... stop HVAC leak. com
Eddie can u help me with something. Please let me know
It's not to bad!!
Use the oil based cleaner then soap and water...
Thanks for watching!!
you should be somewhere around 17 degrees colder than whats in your house, so if its 77 degrees in your house then I would say that you are fine.
H10 G send easier no mess
Dont have to come back in few days to find leak
But die does work
All about preference
The ozone is going but remember residential is only a small segment of the refrigeration industry. Some systems hold 50,000 lbs r22 and when a fork truck hits a pipe 10,000 lbs are lost before it is isolated ... Not too many of those old recirc systems out there anymore.....502 and 12 were the really bad ones and thank goodness they are almost all gone.I believe window units also were junked and never reclaimed . The tech had no control over that one either .....
***** I know .but they claim freon mixes with air and makes its way to the upper atmosphere ... I know that doesn't make sense either because freon is heavier than air. R22 has hydrogen that causes it to break apart in the lower atmosphere resulting in less damage to the ozone... You are right, because chlorine is the culprit.. not freon.. Good comment . Why doesn't chlorine make it to the upper atmosphere without the freon??? Maybe it does..not sure myself
The company that I use to work for uses it all of the time, they have injected hundreds of systems and have not seen any problems
What is your opinion about dye voiding warranties and/or damaging compressor valves? I have to check a coil Friday and don't want to misdiagnose/replace the evaporator then find out it was in the condenser. Major FUBAR!
Btw... the coil I'm checking is a 6 year old Carrier. lol
The Company that I used to work for did a lot of dye testing and they never had a problem with it, they were also a carrier dealer
Thanks!
I bought a Fieldpiece infrared leak detector. Love it!
Thanks Eddie, Not to many are honest as you are.
Question, Is posible for a Air conditioner 23 years old, running good...to be low in refrigerant or freeon.? If so, can you explain why.
The unit will cool until the refrigerant in the evaporator coil reaches the freezing point, once it reaches that point then the evaporator coil will begin to freeze then its over. so a unit can be 1/2 lb low or so a still cool but its going to run all of the time and it will cost you more on you utility bill.
That's it in a nut shell anyways
Thank you Eddie,
A so call Air conditioner tech, check the freon and leaks, he didn't find any, instead he was trying to create one, anyway the reading was 30 psig and the other 160, he said the unit was short in freon about six pounds. I google after he left and I found it wasn't the true.
So, you said is about a 1/2 or 1 pound that it needs.
Thanks,
Wei Mario Chau Either you've got a freak for an air conditioner or someone's not being accurate with the refrigerant readings. there's no way that an air conditioner is going to cool at 30lbs of pressure
Go to the outdoor unit and locate the two copper tubes that are attached to it. feel the larger tube, it should be cold.
Find the sticker that is attached to the air conditioner with all of the ratings. locate refrigerant type it will be either r-22 or r-410a, off to the right of that will tell you how much refrigerant was installed by the mfg.
Use break cleaner to clean the area.
Sorry use brake cleaner
I enjoy making these videos, the only thing thats hard is trying to figure out what kind of video to make..
Thanks for watching!!
DEE Tect uuHH Leek?
im looking for a new leak detector my d teck, and field piece are shit
Dude, a service wrench is 20 bucks... please get one. You are the dude rounding off all my fucking valve stems huh?
systems should come with dye in them
You don't need to measure fan motor temp to determine if air conditioner is working properly
.
I think at this point you should really call someone out to make sure everything is fine.
If you need help trying to find someone that is reliable let me know and I will try to help you find some one, just let me know what city your in.
Eddie, my air conditioning repair man wants to charge me 895.00 for dye test on a Lennox system. Wants a reasonable charge for a dye test?
Not $895! Wow! Where ar you from?
Always use the electronic sniffer first before you put a solution on it also you may need to run the unit without the fan for small leaks your not helping a customer by bandaging a unit and look at your temps before you put your gauges on you should know by temp
Most leak detectors as long as you keep them up ie change the diode and stuff will find a problem replace the coil don't fix a broke coil you will chase that forever isolation tests will ferret this out much faster and we salve the problem now not in two weeks
MrAever I agree with you on this. I keep dye on my truck and will use it when the homeowner requests it. I will also use it if i feel the homeowner is feeling a little sketchy about what I'm telling them, again i'm about using all of the visual aids that I can, it really does make a bug difference
Locking caps do not stop schrader valve cores from leaking, that is insanity. That's just the core inside that has a rubber gasket that wears out. That cap is not designed to stop refrigerant to stop leaking, that seat has NO RUBBER GASKET. You have to replace the schrader core. All you're doing is slowing the rate coming out of the cap so the leak detector can not pick it up. Infrared leak detector it detects a CHANGE in concentration and also the wand must keep moving. Everyone watching this, he is WRONG. We copper braze a sealed joint to prevent a system from leaking. With how large the leaks on the coil were a decent electronic leak detector should have picked that up. UV dye is a last resort. But maybe that was just a demonstration so I can't criticize that but the misinformation on the caps is pretty bad.
Plastic Gloves.....
I can not belive you spend that much money and do not have proper wrench to open walve
That was my first thought too. "Why the fuck isn't he using a service wrench??" Lmao
Let you try and do a video yourself, betcha someone watching will find lots of things that you had forgotten to have in it. @@AF-mr2ur
@@rogerbraasch5224 likely but not using the most basic service tools won't be the mistake.