Nice install video bro. I do have the gpr on my Lowrider but this looks dope too. Between the gpr and trutrac I got, it’s made all the difference in the twisties
Ran the Storz on my Dyna LRS first and it leaked after a couple years. Been running the GPR and its been great. Interesting setup, but the GPR is still a cleaner install.
If you're bottoming out the front thats very risky. Add a few turns on the preload. One question, is the Damper shock itself rebuildable? Either way i will definatly check it out!
Cool vid/ concept but not sure I’d trust that damper.. Ohlins and GPR are pricey for a reason.. If you like to “carve” the canyons, why’d you raise the front (increase the rake/ camber)? If you lower the front (triple trees) and raise the rear (which I think you did) you decrease camber and reduce the overall trail of the bike.. it’ll “carve” much better.. preload is set and forget (mostly).. learn to read your tires.. they’ll show if you need more/ less compression or rebound.. not sure if you have those adjustments.. just rambling..
I haven’t had any issues this far with the damper. As for why I raised my bike the simple answer ground clearance. I had a stock front with raised rear end I find raising both gave me a better feel.
Hi Lego, sit back with a coffee and read this one a few times - there are a lot of things to think about ! I'm puzzeled as to why you need a steering damper when you fitted better engine mounts, maybe the fork preload/valving needs a little more attention. Perhaps you are confusing the effects that springing and damping features have. Once you get the front forks working properly then the rear suspension units will not be 'fighting' with the front ones making you think you need a steering damper.... I notice that your preload adjusters are eased right off..... maybe the fork spring spacers are too long giving too much preload for the spring - the externally adjustable ones are more for 'fine tuning'.If you feel the bike is harsh on the compression stroke then you have too much fork spring preload. I have stronger springs (single rate springs and NOT progressively wound ones) and don't use any preload caused by the fork spring spacers. As you have extended the overall length of the fork then any preload that occurs when the bike is taken off the stand (otherwise known as 'sag') is maybe all the 'preload' you need ! - that is after all why you have 'extended' the forks by fitting longer damper rods or 'seat pipes' as the H-D manual calls them. Though I do realise that you wanted more ground clearance for 'canyon-carving' as you guys call it, longer forks will allow more travel and can therefore allow a smother ride by way of a softer spring rate - short suspension (slammed) Bikes will offer nothing but looks and poor handling. I assume you are still using the standard (for your bike) fork internals here though - my 2010 has the 'old style' internals which are different and more easily tuned than the 'cartridge type' things that H-D tried but failed with in yet another attempt to rectify all the problems those 'over-sprung and under-damped' type set ups they have been using for way too long. I use the emulators to adjust more for 'plushness' than to attemt to avoid a harsh ride - I use the softeset pre-load sprimgs for the compression damping adjustment - but then I am older and like a 'smooth ride' rather than a bike that bucks around (- still like the women to be a 'rough and ready' ride though !). Although my bike feels just as 'plush' as the standard bike (mine is a 2010 Streetbob), it now does have suspension that works without the sloppy feel and harsh 'big bump' ride that the standard damping and springs caused. Too soft a spring that is compressed with too much preload can and will cause the spring to 'oscillate' with shocks from road bumps as the spring is not absorbing the shock but merely storing it like a pogo-stick. A stronger spring with less preload will absorb the shock and tend to not'rebound' so harshly and therefore give a smoother ride that does not cause the bike to feel 'unstable'. If you get the forks set up properly then the fork will absorb the 'impact' off the road bump rather than bouncing off it thereby putting more off the bike's weight on the rear suspension which gives the impression that it needs more preload/stronger springs on the rear. That excess rear preload will make the bike feel unstable in normal 'highway use' as the bike will tend to wander and weave because the rear suspension is too hard to properly absoeb the road bumps and actually puts more 'load' on the front forks ..... you have to make the front and rear suspension work together and not fight each other..... As for the rear shocks I found that the cost of rebuilding them was the same as buying new un-rebuildable ones (they do have adjustable damping) so I opted for them so as to avoid the 'downtime' of waiting for the rebuild..... preload is still adjustable and as they are much cheaper than the rebuildable ones you can save in the long run as the rebuildable ones need rebuilding so often - the oil in them degrades/gas leaks pass the seals just as often in either case. Oh, the term is 'damping' not dampening..... to damp something is to reduce 'it's' progress, to dampen something is to get it wet..... quite surprising how many people get that wrong ! I think maybe I should mention that whilst my forks are still H-D, I do use springs wound to my own specifications, Emulators, SAE 10 fork oil, Wide Glide (FXDWG) yokes or trees as you call them (so the forks are 'raked out' 2 degrees) and FXDF lower legs (or sliders as we call them !) so that I can run a twin disc set-up. The two degree raked yokes are more stable at speed and slightly less manoueverable but as I use a 21 inch front wheel, the bike still 'falls into' corners nicely. Fatbobs have a one degree 'de-rake' in order to compensate for the tatter tyre..... Sttering dampers or stabilizers are just a BandAid on an open wound - it (the suspension) needs 'stitching up' properly mate. Nice to see you back again by the way ! Bob
Kinda.. if the right springs are set to the right preload (sag), awesome.. you’re talking about compression and rebound.. if he’s twisting the screw out of a corner, the front end gets light, no matter what.. a steering damper will (supposed to) prevent harsh wobble/ tank slap.. it all ties together, yes.. without compression & rebound control, a damper is the ticket on a HD.. conditions can change suspension behavior.. even the best (MotoGP) have dampers
@@bullast2046 Well, while Lego is using Emulators to help control compressio/rebound it must be remembered that fork spring rates also affect it. I personally tried Progressively wound springs but found that the constantly varying spring rates (depending upon amount of compression and/or wether the forks were extending or compressing) made it difficult to set up the Emulators to a setting that worked for vaying road surface types/uses of the bike. What you say is correct about the front end getting light - all Harleys - at that time at least - had the weight bias on the rear wheel and that all adds to the problem of 'weight-transfer' when accelerating and brakeing. Said transfer is really detrimental to the handling especially with the 'over-sprung and under-damped' standard suspension - hence my comparrison with a kiddies 'pogo-stick'. To compare a Harley to other bikes is not relevant due to (most) other bikes having the weight bias on the front wheel along with less relative weight transfer, and you have to take into account the fork rake and front wheel 'trail' which will - along with other dimensions and degrees - alter marginally with the front/rear suspension slopiness. All these things have consequencies as regards the overall handling of any bike. Sports bikes and other road bikes again cannot be compaired with race bikes as they are built for different purposes - the only maxim would be that different bikes need setting up differently - try putting longer shocks and forks on virtually any Harley iand it will change the handling compared to a standard one, but you will never get a Harley to handle like a sportsbike due to the weight bias differences. If one gets a bike set up to a point where one can both predict and rely on how it will handle, then it is merely a matter of the size of the riders kahunas and skill as to how it can be ridden - I have ridden the 'twisties' with a sports bike whilst on my Dyna and the sportsbike rider couldn't believe that he couldn't lose me. I opined that 'you can have the best set up bike with the most power but if you don't know how to ride it....' he just walked away ! I think Lego is trying to improve the way his (once standard) bike handles so he can enjoy and utilise it's potential of use on roads that the factory did not envisage the bikes being used on in such a manner - Harleys are classified as cruisers and he is using it for a more sporty-type of riding. Check out a lot of the suspension changes that are done to Baggers for the bagger racing series or indeed what companies like Big Bear performance are doing for road bikes. Sometimes steering dampers are used yes, but it helps if the suspension is set up properly for the type of use/roads that is required. I am not criticising Lego - or anyone else for that matter - for using 'their bike' to ride as and where 'they' decide to ride it, I am merely suggesting that he is not setting the suspension up in such a way as to give him the handling characteristics that he wants or needs, and a steering damper is not going to 'sort' a badly set up suspension. Oh, and I support him doing these things to a Harley because I think He ,like myself prefers the type of 'grunt' and power delivery that ONLY a Harley can deliver..... Kudos to you Lego !
Bro!! You have a dream setup!! Ive messaged Eric! We're in the process of making this damper work on my Nightster! Great video! Just subscribed!!
Nice install video bro. I do have the gpr on my Lowrider but this looks dope too. Between the gpr and trutrac I got, it’s made all the difference in the twisties
Good to know gpr in my opinion is the top of the line but it’s so spendy😬 thanks for watching ✊🏽
Mine just got here today and 1 pice that holds the damper in the middle is missing.
I really dig your seat, how I search for this?
Do you do a kit to fit a 2019 FXFB?
I want to put this on a 2008 nightrod special, any link to this or link to correct kit ??
Damn right on time.
I was looking into this
Sick set up 👍🏽
Would be nice if he just sold the bracket
I can’t seem to get in touch with canyon caver . I have a new 2022 Low Rider St that I would like to add a damper .
There is a RUclips video of a guy who came up with this got his parts of Amazon for 60$
Sweet vid! Good to see ya back. Looks like FXCNC is an Amazon steering damper. I wonder if it’s based on a more popular, higher quality design.
Im pretty sure it’s interchangeable with an ohlins one that looks exactly the same
Ran the Storz on my Dyna LRS first and it leaked after a couple years. Been running the GPR and its been great.
Interesting setup, but the GPR is still a cleaner install.
Agreed but the price difference is huge!
@@dynademos Totally get it. 👍
if you would have put the bracket on the top hole , would the forkbracket clear the top tree? thank you
I think it would end up putting the damper at a weird angle
It looks surprisingly clean. I might consider getting this for my Dyna. Awesome video. 👌🏻
Thanks dude it’s pretty tucked in there 👍🏽
If you're bottoming out the front thats very risky. Add a few turns on the preload.
One question, is the Damper shock itself rebuildable? Either way i will definatly check it out!
I might have misspoke I haven’t bottomed out my suspension. Also I’m not sure if it’s serviceable I’m sure a higher end damper would me
@@dynademos Looking forward to the review!
@@Jimmy_Jim_Jim_1234 check back next week 👍🏽✊🏽
I have a good connection for RWD parts fxrt and rear suspension. Let me know 🤟🏻
Good to know dude u up in Temecula? Also, what happened to their cartridges ?
You going to Outerbanks for Bike week?
I’m on the west coast homie! Myrtle beach bike week was my favorite though
@@dynademos No doubt I do remember that cool video you made about the FXR over there.
I sold the street bob and got me a 2020 low rider s
Nice man unfortunately this won’t work for a soft tail but sweet bike ✊🏽
@@dynademos thanks boss I appreciate it you helped me a lot with my dyna showing some love from Massachusetts 🤘
@@JR-eq3qh appreciate the support ✊🏽 what u think about the new st 😬
@@dynademos for sure man love the videos and there very educational! The new st ??
@@JR-eq3qh yeah bro the lowrider s with a touring fairing
Cool vid/ concept but not sure I’d trust that damper.. Ohlins and GPR are pricey for a reason..
If you like to “carve” the canyons, why’d you raise the front (increase the rake/ camber)? If you lower the front (triple trees) and raise the rear (which I think you did) you decrease camber and reduce the overall trail of the bike.. it’ll “carve” much better.. preload is set and forget (mostly).. learn to read your tires.. they’ll show if you need more/ less compression or rebound.. not sure if you have those adjustments.. just rambling..
I haven’t had any issues this far with the damper. As for why I raised my bike the simple answer ground clearance. I had a stock front with raised rear end I find raising both gave me a better feel.
SFMF! Old school 1/1 89-97
Rahhh!
Can’t say it’s clean look , but thank you for video , want to see your next video with feedback
U don’t think it looks clean? I think compared to what’s out there it’s pretty good
C’mon bro! I already have a list of stuff I want. Don’t be trying to put stuff on it.
Add it to the list!
Hi Lego, sit back with a coffee and read this one a few times - there are a lot of things to think about !
I'm puzzeled as to why you need a steering damper when you fitted better engine mounts, maybe the fork preload/valving needs a little more attention. Perhaps you are confusing the effects that springing and damping features have. Once you get the front forks working properly then the rear suspension units will not be 'fighting' with the front ones making you think you need a steering damper....
I notice that your preload adjusters are eased right off..... maybe the fork spring spacers are too long giving too much preload for the spring - the externally adjustable ones are more for 'fine tuning'.If you feel the bike is harsh on the compression stroke then you have too much fork spring preload.
I have stronger springs (single rate springs and NOT progressively wound ones) and don't use any preload caused by the fork spring spacers. As you have extended the overall length of the fork then any preload that occurs when the bike is taken off the stand (otherwise known as 'sag') is maybe all the 'preload' you need ! - that is after all why you have 'extended' the forks by fitting longer damper rods or 'seat pipes' as the H-D manual calls them.
Though I do realise that you wanted more ground clearance for 'canyon-carving' as you guys call it, longer forks will allow more travel and can therefore allow a smother ride by way of a softer spring rate - short suspension (slammed) Bikes will offer nothing but looks and poor handling.
I assume you are still using the standard (for your bike) fork internals here though - my 2010 has the 'old style' internals which are different and more easily tuned than the 'cartridge type' things that H-D tried but failed with in yet another attempt to rectify all the problems those 'over-sprung and under-damped' type set ups they have been using for way too long.
I use the emulators to adjust more for 'plushness' than to attemt to avoid a harsh ride - I use the softeset pre-load sprimgs for the compression damping adjustment - but then I am older and like a 'smooth ride' rather than a bike that bucks around (- still like the women to be a 'rough and ready' ride though !).
Although my bike feels just as 'plush' as the standard bike (mine is a 2010 Streetbob), it now does have suspension that works without the sloppy feel and harsh 'big bump' ride that the standard damping and springs caused. Too soft a spring that is compressed with too much preload can and will cause the spring to 'oscillate' with shocks from road bumps as the spring is not absorbing the shock but merely storing it like a pogo-stick. A stronger spring with less preload will absorb the shock and tend to not'rebound' so harshly and therefore give a smoother ride that does not cause the bike to feel 'unstable'.
If you get the forks set up properly then the fork will absorb the 'impact' off the road bump rather than bouncing off it thereby putting more off the bike's weight on the rear suspension which gives the impression that it needs more preload/stronger springs on the rear. That excess rear preload will make the bike feel unstable in normal 'highway use' as the bike will tend to wander and weave because the rear suspension is too hard to properly absoeb the road bumps and actually puts more 'load' on the front forks ..... you have to make the front and rear suspension work together and not fight each other.....
As for the rear shocks I found that the cost of rebuilding them was the same as buying new un-rebuildable ones (they do have adjustable damping) so I opted for them so as to avoid the 'downtime' of waiting for the rebuild..... preload is still adjustable and as they are much cheaper than the rebuildable ones you can save in the long run as the rebuildable ones need rebuilding so often - the oil in them degrades/gas leaks pass the seals just as often in either case.
Oh, the term is 'damping' not dampening..... to damp something is to reduce 'it's' progress, to dampen something is to get it wet..... quite surprising how many people get that wrong !
I think maybe I should mention that whilst my forks are still H-D, I do use springs wound to my own specifications, Emulators, SAE 10 fork oil, Wide Glide (FXDWG) yokes or trees as you call them (so the forks are 'raked out' 2 degrees) and FXDF lower legs (or sliders as we call them !) so that I can run a twin disc set-up.
The two degree raked yokes are more stable at speed and slightly less manoueverable but as I use a 21 inch front wheel, the bike still 'falls into' corners nicely. Fatbobs have a one degree 'de-rake' in order to compensate for the tatter tyre.....
Sttering dampers or stabilizers are just a BandAid on an open wound - it (the suspension) needs 'stitching up' properly mate.
Nice to see you back again by the way !
Bob
Kinda.. if the right springs are set to the right preload (sag), awesome.. you’re talking about compression and rebound.. if he’s twisting the screw out of a corner, the front end gets light, no matter what.. a steering damper will (supposed to) prevent harsh wobble/ tank slap.. it all ties together, yes.. without compression & rebound control, a damper is the ticket on a HD.. conditions can change suspension behavior.. even the best (MotoGP) have dampers
@@bullast2046 Well, while Lego is using Emulators to help control compressio/rebound it must be remembered that fork spring rates also affect it. I personally tried Progressively wound springs but found that the constantly varying spring rates (depending upon amount of compression and/or wether the forks were extending or compressing) made it difficult to set up the Emulators to a setting that worked for vaying road surface types/uses of the bike.
What you say is correct about the front end getting light - all Harleys - at that time at least - had the weight bias on the rear wheel and that all adds to the problem of 'weight-transfer' when accelerating and brakeing. Said transfer is really detrimental to the handling especially with the 'over-sprung and under-damped' standard suspension - hence my comparrison with a kiddies 'pogo-stick'.
To compare a Harley to other bikes is not relevant due to (most) other bikes having the weight bias on the front wheel along with less relative weight transfer, and you have to take into account the fork rake and front wheel 'trail' which will - along with other dimensions and degrees - alter marginally with the front/rear suspension slopiness. All these things have consequencies as regards the overall handling of any bike.
Sports bikes and other road bikes again cannot be compaired with race bikes as they are built for different purposes - the only maxim would be that different bikes need setting up differently - try putting longer shocks and forks on virtually any Harley iand it will change the handling compared to a standard one, but you will never get a Harley to handle like a sportsbike due to the weight bias differences.
If one gets a bike set up to a point where one can both predict and rely on how it will handle, then it is merely a matter of the size of the riders kahunas and skill as to how it can be ridden - I have ridden the 'twisties' with a sports bike whilst on my Dyna and the sportsbike rider couldn't believe that he couldn't lose me. I opined that 'you can have the best set up bike with the most power but if you don't know how to ride it....' he just walked away !
I think Lego is trying to improve the way his (once standard) bike handles so he can enjoy and utilise it's potential of use on roads that the factory did not envisage the bikes being used on in such a manner - Harleys are classified as cruisers and he is using it for a more sporty-type of riding.
Check out a lot of the suspension changes that are done to Baggers for the bagger racing series or indeed what companies like Big Bear performance are doing for road bikes.
Sometimes steering dampers are used yes, but it helps if the suspension is set up properly for the type of use/roads that is required.
I am not criticising Lego - or anyone else for that matter - for using 'their bike' to ride as and where 'they' decide to ride it, I am merely suggesting that he is not setting the suspension up in such a way as to give him the handling characteristics that he wants or needs, and a steering damper is not going to 'sort' a badly set up suspension.
Oh, and I support him doing these things to a Harley because I think He ,like myself prefers the type of 'grunt' and power delivery that ONLY a Harley can deliver..... Kudos to you Lego !