The standard Predator 212 engine exhaust is directed straight back to the operator, causing problems. You can buy a deflector that screws onto the heat shield, which sends the exhaust smoke upwards, much better.
I have a similar tiller and my engine blew up yesterday and I was thinking of replacing the motor. So I found your video - looks like I'll need a spacer and washer like yours did :(
I have the same MTD Yard Machine Tiller. I installed a new carb and cleaned the gas tank on the B&G 5HP. Would barely start and cut off. Found it had "low compression." Found oil on top of the piston, so I re-ringed the engine and it still ran like crap. Time for a Predator. Did you guys ever determine how to install the top support bar? I'd sure like to know before I buy the Predator.
Thanks for watching, as far as the support bracket from where it mounts on the handle tube , I ran it straight down to where the wheels plug into the frame. I had to have a inch and a quarter spacer at the top mount point
God bless brother. I live in alabama too and I have the same exact tiller. I bought a carbarator for my motor it runs good until you start using it. So I was wondering if the 212 would work. Thanks for the video. Question the spacer on shaft needs to be 3/4 inside diameter pipe right?
We are actually at the gulf this week, we bought groceries in robertsdale on the way down here, yes the shaft on a predator is 3/4 so a 3/4 ID pipe would be correct
I've also got the old 5hp Briggs and had starting and surging problems. Bought a new carb and it ran some better,but it bogs and stalls out if I put much load on it. It still surges some to like it's running lean. The carb isnt adjustable,so I'm probably just gonna get a predator and be done with it. I have a wood chipper with the same nriggs,sobill save the tiller engine for parts.
I have a Merry tiller, when the engine gets hot and tilling good it pops back through the carburetor and refuses to start until it cools down. I say things I shouldn't say. It is an older tiller with a 3 hp Briggs. It has points and a condenser. A 5 hp Briggs will fit on this tiller with no problem so I'm guessing I could also use a Predator 212. Either fix the 3 hp or buy the Predator. Thank you for the video.
Usually popping back through the carburetor is a sign the motors running to lean. Mine has a 5hp Briggs with a pulse carburetor on it. It pumps fuel from the tank to a small fuel tank mounted bowl under the carburetor and then its sucked up into the carburetor. These are notorious for drawing moisture. Mine is completely rusted out and all the fuel it pumps up just drains back into the tank. Itll start and run,but when you take it above idle it pops and backfires and will bog under load. I'm putting a predator on mine because it's easier than finding a good fuel tank for the briggs.
I reused the 5/16 bolts that held the old motor on, they a we're probably 1-1/4 long. I have not made the support bar yet, but it'll just be a twisted piece of flatbar with a bolt holes on each end.
@@ChrisfromKeyfarm I rebuilt the same tiller. I found a way to support the arm using the bar that came with it. I will try and send a photo when I am finished.
My Troy Bilt Tiller had a troublesome Tecumseh motor. It needed a carburetor rebuild or replaced every spring. It finally quit sparking. The thing got a predator 212 swap. Like you I said bad words. I used all my Sergeant of Marines words. Now I just check the oil and gas, open the gas valve and start it right up.
The Harbor Freight motors are copies of Honda motors which are a solid motor. The brand CHONDA comes to mind - Chinese Honda. The parts are almost always interchangeable between clones to Honda.
I do know how frustrating those engine’s are I was tilling the other day with my Troy bilt and it just quite and now no spark but it has a 1 inch shaft and that engine only has a 3/4 and the 8 hp is to big
Hmmm, I wonder if you could go with the 3/4 shaft predator and just buy a 3/4 bore pulley from eBay ( that's where I buy sprockets and pulleys for all my projects). The mounting bolt pattern would probably also be different. Just thinking out loud but they also make shaft adapters. Thanks for watching.
The standard Predator 212 engine exhaust is directed straight back to the operator, causing problems. You can buy a deflector that screws onto the heat shield, which sends the exhaust smoke upwards, much better.
Definitely needs the exhaust re- directed
Make sure to bring a Loctite on all the carburetor screws on the Briggs & Stratton carburetor they like to vibrate out
I have a similar tiller and my engine blew up yesterday and I was thinking of replacing the motor. So I found your video - looks like I'll need a spacer and washer like yours did :(
I've been tilling here lately, still doing a good job.
I have the same MTD Yard Machine Tiller. I installed a new carb and cleaned the gas tank on the B&G 5HP. Would barely start and cut off. Found it had "low compression." Found oil on top of the piston, so I re-ringed the engine and it still ran like crap. Time for a Predator. Did you guys ever determine how to install the top support bar? I'd sure like to know before I buy the Predator.
Thanks for watching, as far as the support bracket from where it mounts on the handle tube , I ran it straight down to where the wheels plug into the frame. I had to have a inch and a quarter spacer at the top mount point
Don’t go down the road of the eBay carb, I did. That’s what leads me to finding this video. 😂
LOL, thanks. I bouya new one but never put it on, still sitting on the shelf a couple years later.
God bless brother. I live in alabama too and I have the same exact tiller. I bought a carbarator for my motor it runs good until you start using it. So I was wondering if the 212 would work. Thanks for the video. Question the spacer on shaft needs to be 3/4 inside diameter pipe right?
I'm in Robertsdale alabama
We are actually at the gulf this week, we bought groceries in robertsdale on the way down here, yes the shaft on a predator is 3/4 so a 3/4 ID pipe would be correct
I've also got the old 5hp Briggs and had starting and surging problems. Bought a new carb and it ran some better,but it bogs and stalls out if I put much load on it. It still surges some to like it's running lean. The carb isnt adjustable,so I'm probably just gonna get a predator and be done with it. I have a wood chipper with the same nriggs,sobill save the tiller engine for parts.
Appreciate the video! Was that spacer marked as a 3/4” I.D. (inner diameter)?
Yes, I believe so
I have a Merry tiller, when the engine gets hot and tilling good it pops back through the carburetor and refuses to start until it cools down. I say things I shouldn't say. It is an older tiller with a 3 hp Briggs. It has points and a condenser. A 5 hp Briggs will fit on this tiller with no problem so I'm guessing I could also use a Predator 212. Either fix the 3 hp or buy the Predator. Thank you for the video.
The predator engines have went up in price but they start every time you pull the rope, even three or four years later.
Usually popping back through the carburetor is a sign the motors running to lean. Mine has a 5hp Briggs with a pulse carburetor on it. It pumps fuel from the tank to a small fuel tank mounted bowl under the carburetor and then its sucked up into the carburetor. These are notorious for drawing moisture. Mine is completely rusted out and all the fuel it pumps up just drains back into the tank. Itll start and run,but when you take it above idle it pops and backfires and will bog under load. I'm putting a predator on mine because it's easier than finding a good fuel tank for the briggs.
Just curious why you didn’t put the spacer on the outside so that way the pulley doesn’t have to be so far out. Awesome video!
I don't really remember, but I think it had to be that way to align with the other pulleys in the mechanism
What bolts did you use to mount motor to tiller? Do you have any photos of new support bar?
I reused the 5/16 bolts that held the old motor on, they a we're probably 1-1/4 long. I have not made the support bar yet, but it'll just be a twisted piece of flatbar with a bolt holes on each end.
@@ChrisfromKeyfarm I rebuilt the same tiller. I found a way to support the arm using the bar that came with it. I will try and send a photo when I am finished.
ckeyfarm@gmail.com
@@jonathangaston343 anyway I can see how you used the same bar. I have same tiller and using the 212 motor too
My Troy Bilt Tiller had a troublesome Tecumseh motor. It needed a carburetor rebuild or replaced every spring. It finally quit sparking. The thing got a predator 212 swap.
Like you I said bad words. I used all my Sergeant of Marines words. Now I just check the oil and gas, open the gas valve and start it right up.
The Harbor Freight motors are copies of Honda motors which are a solid motor. The brand CHONDA comes to mind - Chinese Honda. The parts are almost always interchangeable between clones to Honda.
I need to know where the rods go on the engine?
?
I do know how frustrating those engine’s are I was tilling the other day with my Troy bilt and it just quite and now no spark but it has a 1 inch shaft and that engine only has a 3/4 and the 8 hp is to big
Hmmm, I wonder if you could go with the 3/4 shaft predator and just buy a 3/4 bore pulley from eBay ( that's where I buy sprockets and pulleys for all my projects). The mounting bolt pattern would probably also be different. Just thinking out loud but they also make shaft adapters. Thanks for watching.
@@ChrisfromKeyfarm o just pulled the pulley and it is 3/4 the crank shaft steps down from 1 inch to 3/4 what a a goofy setup
Lol 👍
The motor is in reverse ?.
No