This makes complete sense. Last winter the moment I was in alignmentment (cognitively thought about it without knowing much about archery technique), I started shooting straight and accurate. It feels secure, stable, and easy. Using the skeleton instead of muscles.
Thank you for putting out such a very thorough lecture. I've spent 5 hours today watching and rewatching and taking notes. Higly valuable! This is the first time I heard an explanation of expansion that makes sense to me. Can't wait to try this out. I'm a barebow shooter and my biggest problem is inconsistent alignment and collapses at the end of the shot sequence.
4:44 What is the archer's end goal? 6:49 Why linear shot sequence? 10:18 What is the linear shot sequence? 15:21 Posture 20:18 What is linear shot alignment? 21:34 Alignment teaching order 22:05 Why is alignment important? 25:25 Myth of alignment 26:54 Why do archer have trouble getting into alignment? 29:07 Draw sequence 48:42 How can you tell if someone is in alignment 52:29 Stance 54:33 Bow arm alignment 57:55 Gripping the bow 1:04:10 Holding up the bow vs pushing the bow 1:10:58 Alignment at setup 1:18:44 Using natural leverage to draw 1:26:13 Draw hand wrist position 1:33:13 Expansion 1:45:46 Resistance - smiley face 1:47:44 Recurve wall - trapping the string
Fantastic seminar 👌 Naturally I've been doing the ACF, American Classical Form without knowing... I've even tested NTS for while but no matter how much I try it when checking video feedback I will always naturally go back to the ACF draw technique, it's just easier and less stressful on the body Thanks for sharing 👍 Definitely great to see someone teaching actually shoot a bow
Great seminar! Makes so much sense, and really gives the NTS purists something to think about. I never felt properly comfortable in the open stance my back usually started to ache after 100 arrows, but the parallel stance and anchoring only at arm alignment really makes it easier and improves sustained accuracy.
KSL Was sent to the USA to further destroy it but Brady Ellison came along, a guy who could shoot arrows out of his butt and get eXes.... If you mention anything about KSL to the Silver & Bronze guys they flip out. If I were able to score enough to get on the US Olympic team only to have the coach tell me that, "That's not the way, this is the way!" I'd be like not even listening to him. Why can't any of the US people watch these Korean videos on youtube? I had a car, the CE light stayed on, got a code that was non specific. Went on YT and searched for it, this guy figured it out for Honda Accords and it came down to a canister in the rear wheel well for emissions, fixed that day for free. RUclips is how I managed to see your video and thank you!
I've been suffering trying to keep my head straight, all the way up to anchor and then transfer expand and release only to find out that i just could not - my nose would be slapped all the time (high anchor for Barebow short distance). The concept of alignment was a hopeful symptom rather than a basis of my form. I practiced yesterday to the best of my understanding what Chris here suggests, keeping lessons of previous form work in place, and a. My nose does not hurt. b. I felt relaxed, in control and the only thing that bothered me was, will my hooked hand settle anywhere on my face that might be a legitimate anchor without trying to rubber neck it there. Well. it does - easier than it appears. Lots of work to be done still but i enjoyed shooting again after months of hammering my form into shape...
It's funny, I picked up on, prolly an Archery Talk post by you, giving me "permission" to start my cycle in alignment rather than fight to get there. Tried it closed...what an immediate difference . I'm leary of the high grip/finger over the shelf as it would seem to induce torque. That said, I shoot off the riser, thinking I might put my grip back on and start over from that position. The other torque point being the string/fingers, pressure....I shoot Barebow , 18 meters at least 1-1/2 inches down the tab...I seem to get most consistent results with consistent pressure on all three fingers...? Sometimes I use a continued follow thru, sometimes I use a static release. My string rests against my glasses, as a check point, and I sight with my right eye down the right side of the arrow. I don't know how "down my arm" I can turn my face as I have a bit of arthritis in my neck. 67yo RH Barebow shooter...Virginia. Any comments would be appreciated....especially release. Nothing but NTS coaches as far as the eye can see! Thanks
Really interested to try this on my competition setup. I ve been doing NTS for almost 2 years and I have never felt that it works well for me. If just one small element of it is off it has to be started again. And I ended up with shoulder pain despite it supposedly being better for your shoulder joints. NTS is overly complicated, way too many steps to implement and easy for the system to breakdown in a pressure situation. BB shooters are not full time pros training 8 hours a day. We need a simpler more natural system.... I shoot barebow and NTS is becoming the thing that you should be doing. There are many great BB archers shooting non NTS style but now coaches are really pushing the 13 step (minimum) NTS system into BB. At the same time these NTS coaches are critiquing the top archers who shoot non NTS saying they are shooting wrong or 'they need to do this.....' to be great. They are already great archers. I tried my old style (more Korean) with a stretch band last night. Instant alignment every time. Next time I ll try the Linear Korean style with my light training bow. Then see what happens.
while originally i taught this shot sequence to my Olympic recurve students, i had three barebow archers learn this form from me. All three made the USA team. No shabby feat with the barebow talent we have in the USA. Now since i began giving the seminar, i have more barebow students. Form is form. To be blunt, USA archery wants NTS to become the thing because the coaching certification process is a cash cow.
i'm a beginner and i GOT SO MUCH OUT OF THIS VIDEO!!!! OMGGGG thank you so much for posting this, i cant believe how much i learned from this vid have saved it and tried all the techniques mentioned and they made a massive difference even in a beginner like me! i think this is the most important video i have ever watched!! does coach Chris do online video coaching?
I was laughing in the beginning when he said that blind people don't aim. Watch the aiming process of blind archers sometimes, that said yes archery is not an aiming sport, it is a form sport, and to be successful it requires a lot of practice and consistency.
Chris thanks for sharing your seminar. I have watched it multiple times and successfully started to apply today. I love the idea of focusing on alignment and then face to string however I am struggling with consistently finding my jaw and nose that means the shots don’t always flow. Do you have any suggestions?
dont worry about finding your jaw or finding your anchor. Anchor is mostly overrated in the overall steps of the shot. Once you can draw to a consistent alignment, the right anchor will happen and you won thave to think about it other than head position.
What are some other good resources to learn the linear shot? This video was great, I'm going to work on shooting like this as well as coaching like this. No matter what you think about NTS, I think we can agree that this will be easier to explain and teach.
Bri Hearrin Kim Hyungtak’s book “Archery” is a resource for the linear shot. Also Rick McKinney’s “The Art of Winning”. I am also working on a book on the linear shot.
@@ChrisHillOlympicRecurveArchery Thank you! I've heard Rick's book recommended a lot, I'm definitely going to pick it up. Can't wait to read your book. I'm very interested in using the expansion you talked about for barebow, I've struggled a lot with target panic and have found a method that works fairly well to trigger my shot, but I think this may work better.
Hi, very interesting stuff! I'm new to the recurve bow, and I'm trying to improve my compound draw. All you discussed is very logic but I'm wondering how does it apply or how is it not applicable to compound bows (hunting & target) Thanks for the great content!
HI, compound is a different draw in a way, an opposite one. So draw method is different. With compound the heavy load is in the beginning of the draw and then becomes lighter as you come to full draw and the wall of the bow. Recurve starts out light and the draw load becomes heavier as you full further back. So the form for each dealing with the load is different.
Thank you for the reply! I'm having a hard time having a consistent release and accuracy with my hunting recurve. How can we reach you for online private lessons? (If you still give them)
@@gabrielcote9022 i do give private lessons in person and online. I have students in several different countries currently. I can be reached at my email regenerationmix@gmail.com and on facebook. facebook.com/chrstphrhill
Just letting you know that I love this. Would like to reach out and get 10 mins of your time to interview you for ArcheryGeek. Please let me know if you are interested- thanks
Great seminar: thanks! I’m a Barebow shooter, struggling a bit with draw length when I don’t “draw to anchor”. When I try drawing to alignment, my hand ends up very far back. It’s more like the string is at my earlobe than the wrist just behind the ear. Is it correct that getting to alignment is a combination of mostly drawing back (elbow moving away from the target), and a bit of pulling the upper arm more behind you (elbow rotating toward your back)? Should I be focusing more on the “rotation” piece so I don’t pull my hand so far back?
Hi, is the wrist just behind the ear? You say the string is at your earlobe. If your wrist is just behind your ear, the string should not be at your earlobe. There shouldnt be any rotation really with the draw arm with linear. The draw is straight back. The draw arm draws back. I would have to see video of your shot sequence to give any good advice.
Hi Chris! The part where the Korean archer pretty much lower their shoulder a bit and then release…you said it would be perfect for barebow to use as a clicker. Can you please explain to me because I’m a barebow archer..is that when you expand and lower your shoulder just like the Korean archers…do they simultaneously pull back when they do that? I would love to use this in my shot process! Thanks
It could be that you were drawing too far back and now you are drawing to the right place. hard for me to say without see a photo of you at full draw, or a video of your draw. Usually most of my students have their draw length increase, not decrease.
Do you still do seminars or talks? I can't find any information on how to contact you. I am extremely interested in the information you present. Thank you
What am I doing wrong, when if I get aligned, a) I have to turn my head so that my neck hurts, or b) I can only see the frame of my eyeglasses blocking the target?
Sami Anttila can you stand up without the bow. Stand as you would stand talking to someone in front of you face to face? Now looking forward , your face looking at 12 oclock. Can you turn your head to the right to 1 oclock, 2 oclock and 3 oclock without any hurting? Then try to the left. Can you turn your head to 11 oclock, 10 oclock and 9 oclock? And with no pain? If you can not, then you will be limited to the angle you can turn your head toward bow arm. If you can, then no reason you can not do the same with the bow. 3 oclock and 9 oclock will be in the same line as your shoulders. Regardless, you should not do anything that will cause pain or hurt with the shot. Some people do not rountinely turn their head along their shoulders unless looking over their shoulder so the neck muscles can be more rigid and not be as flexible for good head position looking down the arm. Another test, can you lay down on a bed on your stomach and lay your head left or right on the same plane as your shoulder like you would sleep without pain? If so, then you may be tensing your neck muscles while shooting the bow, but relaxing them when you lie down to sleep on your stomach. If not then your range of motion may be limited and you will have to use the range that you do have.
Chris Hill Olympic Recurve Archery Thanks. My range of head turning (without pain) is from 9:30 to 2 o’clock. I have been thinking of buying frameless eyeglasses and mounting them near the eyes to get better view of the target, but before that, I’ll try to make some exercises to perhaps increase my ability turn the head.
Sami Anttila ok, just remember, archery form should not cause pain. Do the range of motion that you can do. Then adapt the form to your range of motion.
Hello, Mr. Chris Hill I agree with your theory in your seminar, but I found it difficult to apply it to myself. You said everyone can achieve alignment, but I don't know how to make it. I have the same problem with the 2nd most common misalignment at 28:46 "Can get both shoulders in line with bow arm, but can not get draw line inline". I don't know how to get the red line. I am exactly like the man in the ppt. I was feeling my draw arm and my arrow was inline, but it was not so in a photo. From the vertical view, if my arrow is pointing at 12 o'clock, my draw elbow would point at 5.30, a little bit out of the arrow line. Some of my friends told me it was because of my arm structure. So, Mr. Chris Hill, can you tell me how to solve this misalignment? If you don't mind, I want to send you my shooting video to see what the problem is.
Hi, I am more that happy to look at your shot sequence. You can film yourself shooting and put it up on RUclips as a private video. Then send me the link to my email address. regenerationmix@gmail.com If you are the second most common misalignment, then you are stopping short and not drawing all the way to alignment.It is not your arm structure. In the video i show my son shooting with 4 year old arm lengths. He is still able to get to his alignment. You have to draw all the way to alignment which is past the head. Your draw wrist has to be past your ear. You are probably still drawing to face or chin as he was in the video. Once he draw further back to his alignment, he was able to relearn his head position and have everything where it should be for the maximum leverage and stability.
Hello Mr Hill, I don't get tired shooting my recurve bow, but my string fingers are screaming for mercy only after about 30 arrows. May i plesse ask you to show us what finger tabs you use to protect your fingers, and some techniques to stop your fingers going very sore and then numb. After that, it is not fun shooting your bow anymore. It becomes very very unpleasant, and then you begin to hate your sport.
Hi, you should not have hurting fingers. Your finger tab is not right for you currently. You should have 1 mm of leather thickness for each 10 lbs of bow draw. Here is a forum thread with photos of my finger tab and some explanations on using the tab. www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=5817849&p=1111763465#post1111763465 you may need to make an account on the forum to see the photos.
Hi Chris, I enjoyed your presentation on the linear method and, thanks to your explanation, I can understand the biomechanics of the "Korean" method. After watching your presentation I observed the Korean women's team shooting against China in the 2016 World Archery competition in Medillion (ruclips.net/video/OcUvcnEg1cs/видео.html) and, despite the low camera angle, it looked like they were very close to what might be considered a "high draw" as defined by World Archery Rule Book 3, art. 12.9 which states, "An athlete, when drawing back the string of his bow uses any technique which, in the opinion of the Judges, could allow the arrow, if accidentally released, to fly beyond a safety zone or safety arrangements (overshoot area, net, wall etc.)." The drawing technique used in the video might be OK when shooting 70 meters but might not be at an indoor competition at 18m. Have any archers been warned or disqualified by the high draw rule? I would like to start using the "linear" method and would appreciate your opinion on the high draw issue.
Hi, none of those archers have a high draw or sky draw. The rule is there to prevent the arrow being draw that would allow the arrow to go beyond the target area. The linear draw is not a high draw. A high draw, the arrow is pointed up when the archer is drawing back the string. If you look at the archers you referenced, their arrow is close to parallel when they draw back the string. The front arm being up is lowered and that brings the arrow to target. They are not pointing the arrow high and drawing while it's high. When they start pulling with the draw hand, the arrow is more parallel to the target. If you look at my seminar at 1:19:08. Lowering my bow arm, puts the arrow parallel.
Hello Mr Chris Hill, I have a Samic Sage and I am deeply disappointed with this bow. You cannot tune this bow. People tell me that this is a traditional bow, but it think this thing has been engineered wrong. The arrows, when they leave the bow, they are all swayed to the left. The arrow rests when installed, they all bias the arrows to the left of the riser. Although the limbs are square, and the string is in line with the limbs and the riser, the thing that cannot be adjusted is how the arrow rests off the riser. Even if you shoot off the shelf, the riser still biases the arrows to the left. The flechings do come in contact with the riser and there is nothing you can do about it. Again poor design. If i significantly tilt the bow to the right, i can get more accurate arrow departure, as the bias to the left becomes a bias up. I hope this makes sense. I have a adjustable sight on it, and once you tilt the bow to the right, your sights become useless. I would not attempt to bare shaft tune this thing. That could be a dangerous and unpredictable excercise. My plan is to shave off about 7mm off the left side off the riser and then strenghten the RH side of the riser to compensate for the wood taken away. I hope to then use the adjustability of a decent arrow rest and a plunger to make this bow into a more center shot, rather than to stuff about with the dynamic part of the arrow, trying to make the arrow supposedly go arround the ill constructrd riser. The Samic Sage was a highly recommended bow to me by a lot of people, and it even has a great write-ups in many reviews, however this ill constructed peice of wood is nothing more than a poorly constructed "highly polished, good looking" but poorly performing bow. The only way this thing will shoot acceptably is by using large fleching, so that over longer distances, the arrow flight averages out. Hardly an accurate peice. It is challenging enough to learn to shoot properly, without messing about with this poorly constructed peice, which tries to make arrows go arround corners, arround the ill constructec riser. What are your ideas on this please?
Nenad Stanojevic most wooden bows and starter bows will not be that tune able. It is possible your arrows are stiff and not matched to the bow poundage. If you are wanting to have a recurve bow and tune it, you will need to step up to a metal or carbon riser with ILF limbs. Wooden bows are not going ro give you the range of adjustment that you need to tune.
This makes complete sense. Last winter the moment I was in alignmentment (cognitively thought about it without knowing much about archery technique), I started shooting straight and accurate. It feels secure, stable, and easy. Using the skeleton instead of muscles.
it's 2024. This is great! Thanks. How are you now, sir?
Thank you for putting out such a very thorough lecture. I've spent 5 hours today watching and rewatching and taking notes. Higly valuable! This is the first time I heard an explanation of expansion that makes sense to me. Can't wait to try this out. I'm a barebow shooter and my biggest problem is inconsistent alignment and collapses at the end of the shot sequence.
4:44 What is the archer's end goal?
6:49 Why linear shot sequence?
10:18 What is the linear shot sequence?
15:21 Posture
20:18 What is linear shot alignment?
21:34 Alignment teaching order
22:05 Why is alignment important?
25:25 Myth of alignment
26:54 Why do archer have trouble getting into alignment?
29:07 Draw sequence
48:42 How can you tell if someone is in alignment
52:29 Stance
54:33 Bow arm alignment
57:55 Gripping the bow
1:04:10 Holding up the bow vs pushing the bow
1:10:58 Alignment at setup
1:18:44 Using natural leverage to draw
1:26:13 Draw hand wrist position
1:33:13 Expansion
1:45:46 Resistance - smiley face
1:47:44 Recurve wall - trapping the string
Fantastic seminar 👌
Naturally I've been doing the ACF, American Classical Form without knowing... I've even tested NTS for while but no matter how much I try it when checking video feedback I will always naturally go back to the ACF draw technique, it's just easier and less stressful on the body
Thanks for sharing 👍
Definitely great to see someone teaching actually shoot a bow
Great seminar! Makes so much sense, and really gives the NTS purists something to think about. I never felt properly comfortable in the open stance my back usually started to ache after 100 arrows, but the parallel stance and anchoring only at arm alignment really makes it easier and improves sustained accuracy.
Thank you so much for the putting this seminar together and sharing this information as an alternative to NTS.
KSL Was sent to the USA to further destroy it but Brady Ellison came along, a guy who could shoot arrows out of his butt and get eXes.... If you mention anything about KSL to the Silver & Bronze guys they flip out. If I were able to score enough to get on the US Olympic team only to have the coach tell me that, "That's not the way, this is the way!" I'd be like not even listening to him. Why can't any of the US people watch these Korean videos on youtube? I had a car, the CE light stayed on, got a code that was non specific. Went on YT and searched for it, this guy figured it out for Honda Accords and it came down to a canister in the rear wheel well for emissions, fixed that day for free. RUclips is how I managed to see your video and thank you!
Thank you Chris for this enlightening seminar, this was the best!
I've been suffering trying to keep my head straight, all the way up to anchor and then transfer expand and release only to find out that i just could not - my nose would be slapped all the time (high anchor for Barebow short distance). The concept of alignment was a hopeful symptom rather than a basis of my form. I practiced yesterday to the best of my understanding what Chris here suggests, keeping lessons of previous form work in place, and a. My nose does not hurt. b. I felt relaxed, in control and the only thing that bothered me was, will my hooked hand settle anywhere on my face that might be a legitimate anchor without trying to rubber neck it there. Well. it does - easier than it appears. Lots of work to be done still but i enjoyed shooting again after months of hammering my form into shape...
It's funny, I picked up on, prolly an Archery Talk post by you, giving me "permission" to start my cycle in alignment rather than fight to get there. Tried it closed...what an immediate difference .
I'm leary of the high grip/finger over the shelf as it would seem to induce torque. That said, I shoot off the riser, thinking I might put my grip back on and start over from that position. The other torque point being the string/fingers, pressure....I shoot Barebow , 18 meters at least 1-1/2 inches down the tab...I seem to get most consistent results with consistent pressure on all three fingers...? Sometimes I use a continued follow thru, sometimes I use a static release. My string rests against my glasses, as a check point, and I sight with my right eye down the right side of the arrow.
I don't know how "down my arm" I can turn my face as I have a bit of arthritis in my neck. 67yo RH Barebow shooter...Virginia.
Any comments would be appreciated....especially release.
Nothing but NTS coaches as far as the eye can see!
Thanks
Thanks Chris. This was excellent.
Good stuff.
Thank you for sharing Chris
Was there for Day2. I much appreciate you posting this for those of us with goldfish memories.
For the best mental approach I will still read Al Henderson!
I have two copies, just.
in case!
Thank you for posting this!
Thanks for posting !
Amazing content
Really interested to try this on my competition setup. I ve been doing NTS for almost 2 years and I have never felt that it works well for me. If just one small element of it is off it has to be started again. And I ended up with shoulder pain despite it supposedly being better for your shoulder joints. NTS is overly complicated, way too many steps to implement and easy for the system to breakdown in a pressure situation. BB shooters are not full time pros training 8 hours a day. We need a simpler more natural system.... I shoot barebow and NTS is becoming the thing that you should be doing. There are many great BB archers shooting non NTS style but now coaches are really pushing the 13 step (minimum) NTS system into BB. At the same time these NTS coaches are critiquing the top archers who shoot non NTS saying they are shooting wrong or 'they need to do this.....' to be great. They are already great archers.
I tried my old style (more Korean) with a stretch band last night. Instant alignment every time. Next time I ll try the Linear Korean style with my light training bow. Then see what happens.
while originally i taught this shot sequence to my Olympic recurve students, i had three barebow archers learn this form from me. All three made the USA team. No shabby feat with the barebow talent we have in the USA. Now since i began giving the seminar, i have more barebow students. Form is form. To be blunt, USA archery wants NTS to become the thing because the coaching certification process is a cash cow.
We love you Chris. How the US could abandon the herritage from Darrel Pace is beyond me. But I am just a pleb.
i'm a beginner and i GOT SO MUCH OUT OF THIS VIDEO!!!! OMGGGG thank you so much for posting this, i cant believe how much i learned from this vid have saved it and tried all the techniques mentioned and they made a massive difference even in a beginner like me! i think this is the most important video i have ever watched!! does coach Chris do online video coaching?
You're so welcome!
Top quality stuff. Thank you.
Fascinating this seems to draw a lot from traditional Chinese styles from what I've seen on justin mas channel
Which just kindve makes sense
I was laughing in the beginning when he said that blind people don't aim. Watch the aiming process of blind archers sometimes, that said yes archery is not an aiming sport, it is a form sport, and to be successful it requires a lot of practice and consistency.
Chris thanks for sharing your seminar. I have watched it multiple times and successfully started to apply today. I love the idea of focusing on alignment and then face to string however I am struggling with consistently finding my jaw and nose that means the shots don’t always flow. Do you have any suggestions?
dont worry about finding your jaw or finding your anchor. Anchor is mostly overrated in the overall steps of the shot. Once you can draw to a consistent alignment, the right anchor will happen and you won thave to think about it other than head position.
What are some other good resources to learn the linear shot? This video was great, I'm going to work on shooting like this as well as coaching like this. No matter what you think about NTS, I think we can agree that this will be easier to explain and teach.
Bri Hearrin Kim Hyungtak’s book “Archery” is a resource for the linear shot. Also Rick McKinney’s “The Art of Winning”. I am also working on a book on the linear shot.
@@ChrisHillOlympicRecurveArchery Thank you! I've heard Rick's book recommended a lot, I'm definitely going to pick it up. Can't wait to read your book. I'm very interested in using the expansion you talked about for barebow, I've struggled a lot with target panic and have found a method that works fairly well to trigger my shot, but I think this may work better.
So many people obsessed by NTS... finally something that makes sense! 👍
Hi, very interesting stuff! I'm new to the recurve bow, and I'm trying to improve my compound draw. All you discussed is very logic but I'm wondering how does it apply or how is it not applicable to compound bows (hunting & target)
Thanks for the great content!
HI, compound is a different draw in a way, an opposite one. So draw method is different. With compound the heavy load is in the beginning of the draw and then becomes lighter as you come to full draw and the wall of the bow. Recurve starts out light and the draw load becomes heavier as you full further back. So the form for each dealing with the load is different.
Thank you for the reply! I'm having a hard time having a consistent release and accuracy with my hunting recurve. How can we reach you for online private lessons? (If you still give them)
@@gabrielcote9022 i do give private lessons in person and online. I have students in several different countries currently. I can be reached at my email regenerationmix@gmail.com
and on facebook. facebook.com/chrstphrhill
Just letting you know that I love this. Would like to reach out and get 10 mins of your time to interview you for ArcheryGeek. Please let me know if you are interested- thanks
hi, you can email me at regenerationmix@gmail.com
Great seminar: thanks! I’m a Barebow shooter, struggling a bit with draw length when I don’t “draw to anchor”. When I try drawing to alignment, my hand ends up very far back. It’s more like the string is at my earlobe than the wrist just behind the ear. Is it correct that getting to alignment is a combination of mostly drawing back (elbow moving away from the target), and a bit of pulling the upper arm more behind you (elbow rotating toward your back)? Should I be focusing more on the “rotation” piece so I don’t pull my hand so far back?
Hi, is the wrist just behind the ear? You say the string is at your earlobe. If your wrist is just behind your ear, the string should not be at your earlobe. There shouldnt be any rotation really with the draw arm with linear. The draw is straight back. The draw arm draws back. I would have to see video of your shot sequence to give any good advice.
Useful. Thanks 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Hi Chris! The part where the Korean archer pretty much lower their shoulder a bit and then release…you said it would be perfect for barebow to use as a clicker. Can you please explain to me because I’m a barebow archer..is that when you expand and lower your shoulder just like the Korean archers…do they simultaneously pull back when they do that? I would love to use this in my shot process! Thanks
yes. once you reach the end of the shoulders extending you release. I have a number of barebow archers who use this as a trigger for releasing.
Listen to him. He is my older brother. He is really smart.
Question. Since I tried this approach my draw length appears about 1 inch shorter. Is that worrying or tell tale of bad technique?
It could be that you were drawing too far back and now you are drawing to the right place. hard for me to say without see a photo of you at full draw, or a video of your draw. Usually most of my students have their draw length increase, not decrease.
Thank you Chris,, now a book please!
tom conaway currently working on one.
Do you still do seminars or talks? I can't find any information on how to contact you. I am extremely interested in the information you present. Thank you
Yes i still do seminars. You can email me at regenerationmix@gmail.com
What am I doing wrong, when if I get aligned, a) I have to turn my head so that my neck hurts, or b) I can only see the frame of my eyeglasses blocking the target?
Sami Anttila can you stand up without the bow. Stand as you would stand talking to someone in front of you face to face? Now looking forward , your face looking at 12 oclock. Can you turn your head to the right to 1 oclock, 2 oclock and 3 oclock without any hurting? Then try to the left. Can you turn your head to 11 oclock, 10 oclock and 9 oclock? And with no pain? If you can not, then you will be limited to the angle you can turn your head toward bow arm. If you can, then no reason you can not do the same with the bow.
3 oclock and 9 oclock will be in the same line as your shoulders. Regardless, you should not do anything that will cause pain or hurt with the shot. Some people do not rountinely turn their head along their shoulders unless looking over their shoulder so the neck muscles can be more rigid and not be as flexible for good head position looking down the arm.
Another test, can you lay down on a bed on your stomach and lay your head left or right on the same plane as your shoulder like you would sleep without pain? If so, then you may be tensing your neck muscles while shooting the bow, but relaxing them when you lie down to sleep on your stomach. If not then your range of motion may be limited and you will have to use the range that you do have.
Chris Hill Olympic Recurve Archery Thanks. My range of head turning (without pain) is from 9:30 to 2 o’clock. I have been thinking of buying frameless eyeglasses and mounting them near the eyes to get better view of the target, but before that, I’ll try to make some exercises to perhaps increase my ability turn the head.
Sami Anttila ok, just remember, archery form should not cause pain. Do the range of motion that you can do. Then adapt the form to your range of motion.
Chris Hill Olympic Recurve Archery I’ll try to keep that in mind. Thanks !
@@ChrisHillOlympicRecurveArchery Would this be a case where opening the stance up slightly to allow for the 9:30 head angle would be better?
Hello, Mr. Chris Hill
I agree with your theory in your seminar, but I found it difficult to apply it to myself.
You said everyone can achieve alignment, but I don't know how to make it.
I have the same problem with the 2nd most common misalignment at 28:46 "Can get both shoulders in line with bow arm, but can not get draw line inline".
I don't know how to get the red line. I am exactly like the man in the ppt. I was feeling my draw arm and my arrow was inline, but it was not so in a photo. From the vertical view, if my arrow is pointing at 12 o'clock, my draw elbow would point at 5.30, a little bit out of the arrow line.
Some of my friends told me it was because of my arm structure.
So, Mr. Chris Hill, can you tell me how to solve this misalignment?
If you don't mind, I want to send you my shooting video to see what the problem is.
Hi, I am more that happy to look at your shot sequence. You can film yourself shooting and put it up on RUclips as a private video. Then send me the link to my email address. regenerationmix@gmail.com
If you are the second most common misalignment, then you are stopping short and not drawing all the way to alignment.It is not your arm structure. In the video i show my son shooting with 4 year old arm lengths. He is still able to get to his alignment.
You have to draw all the way to alignment which is past the head. Your draw wrist has to be past your ear. You are probably still drawing to face or chin as he was in the video. Once he draw further back to his alignment, he was able to relearn his head position and have everything where it should be for the maximum leverage and stability.
Great seminar! Let's DO bring common sense back to archery!
Hello Mr Hill,
I don't get tired shooting my recurve bow, but my string fingers are screaming for mercy only after about 30 arrows.
May i plesse ask you to show us what finger tabs you use to protect your fingers, and some techniques to stop your fingers going very sore and then numb.
After that, it is not fun shooting your bow anymore. It becomes very very unpleasant, and then you begin to hate your sport.
Hi, you should not have hurting fingers. Your finger tab is not right for you currently. You should have 1 mm of leather thickness for each 10 lbs of bow draw. Here is a forum thread with photos of my finger tab and some explanations on using the tab.
www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=5817849&p=1111763465#post1111763465
you may need to make an account on the forum to see the photos.
Hi Chris, I enjoyed your presentation on the linear method and, thanks to your explanation, I can understand the biomechanics of the "Korean" method. After watching your presentation I observed the Korean women's team shooting against China in the 2016 World Archery competition in Medillion (ruclips.net/video/OcUvcnEg1cs/видео.html) and, despite the low camera angle, it looked like they were very close to what might be considered a "high draw" as defined by World Archery Rule Book 3, art. 12.9 which states, "An athlete, when drawing back the string of his bow uses any technique which, in the opinion of the Judges, could allow the arrow, if accidentally released, to fly beyond a safety zone or safety arrangements (overshoot area, net, wall etc.)." The drawing technique used in the video might be OK when shooting 70 meters but might not be at an indoor competition at 18m. Have any archers been warned or disqualified by the high draw rule? I would like to start using the "linear" method and would appreciate your opinion on the high draw issue.
Hi, none of those archers have a high draw or sky draw. The rule is there to prevent the arrow being draw that would allow the arrow to go beyond the target area. The linear draw is not a high draw. A high draw, the arrow is pointed up when the archer is drawing back the string. If you look at the archers you referenced, their arrow is close to parallel when they draw back the string. The front arm being up is lowered and that brings the arrow to target. They are not pointing the arrow high and drawing while it's high. When they start pulling with the draw hand, the arrow is more parallel to the target. If you look at my seminar at 1:19:08. Lowering my bow arm, puts the arrow parallel.
Naturally the guy with the cough sits right by the microphone. 👉👎👈
Hello Mr Chris Hill,
I have a Samic Sage and I am deeply disappointed with this bow. You cannot tune this bow. People tell me that this is a traditional bow, but it think this thing has been engineered wrong.
The arrows, when they leave the bow, they are all swayed to the left. The arrow rests when installed, they all bias the arrows to the left of the riser.
Although the limbs are square, and the string is in line with the limbs and the riser, the thing that cannot be adjusted is how the arrow rests off the riser.
Even if you shoot off the shelf, the riser still biases the arrows to the left. The flechings do come in contact with the riser and there is nothing you can do about it. Again poor design.
If i significantly tilt the bow to the right, i can get more accurate arrow departure, as the bias to the left becomes a bias up. I hope this makes sense.
I have a adjustable sight on it, and once you tilt the bow to the right, your sights become useless.
I would not attempt to bare shaft tune this thing. That could be a dangerous and unpredictable excercise.
My plan is to shave off about 7mm off the left side off the riser and then strenghten the RH side of the riser to compensate for the wood taken away.
I hope to then use the adjustability of a decent arrow rest and a plunger to make this bow into a more center shot, rather than to stuff about with the dynamic part of the arrow, trying to make the arrow supposedly go arround the ill constructrd riser.
The Samic Sage was a highly recommended bow to me by a lot of people, and it even has a great write-ups in many reviews, however this ill constructed peice of wood is nothing more than a poorly constructed "highly polished, good looking" but poorly performing bow.
The only way this thing will shoot acceptably is by using large fleching, so that over longer distances, the arrow flight averages out. Hardly an accurate peice.
It is challenging enough to learn to shoot properly, without messing about with this poorly constructed peice, which tries to make arrows go arround corners, arround the ill constructec riser.
What are your ideas on this please?
Nenad Stanojevic most wooden bows and starter bows will not be that tune able. It is possible your arrows are stiff and not matched to the bow poundage. If you are wanting to have a recurve bow and tune it, you will need to step up to a metal or carbon riser with ILF limbs. Wooden bows are not going ro give you the range of adjustment that you need to tune.
@@ChrisHillOlympicRecurveArchery , Thank you sir.
Never liked the NTS system.
Sounds like your in a cave