How Good Can A £66 Oscilloscope Be? Best Beginner 2022 Hantek
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- Опубликовано: 21 окт 2024
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9:59 - on high end scopes you can turn off the "digital phosphor" if you don't want to see intricate signal distribution (or simply use single capture with deep memory). But on Hantek you don't have this option and oblidged to spend hours to see rare event.
Thanks for the video. There are several bad comments on Hantek DSO2000 series. Is still working yours?
Yep not had issues or heard of issues from all the ones we sold
I like the video. Will the software for the Hantek or the Picoscope do data logging? and if so for how long?
Love your products, thanks for the recommendations 😊
Thanks, glad it was useful
Thank you for that . Are the multi meter type any use
Just a heads up, but there's actually an open source version of that Hantenk software out there.
Haven't used it myself, but from what I understand it's quite a bit better than the standard software.
Awesome. I'll have to check that out
@@RetroSix Pretty sure it's just called OpenHantek or something like that.
@@RetroSix We have actually modifyed them to now do continous direct stream at 30msps making it ideal for cvbs RF capture for cvbs-decode or FM RF capture for vhs-decode etc
Thanks for the review.
So, is this £66 scope, a good choice for repairing/diagnose game gears ?
Yep it's very close to on par with the £120 PicoScope
Did you make a decision on whether you wanted to tey your hand at a better UI for the Hantek software?
Never had time yet I got super busy with my RetroSix business for last 12 months
It would have been nice to have links to the products.
Did you go through with making a new UI for the hantek? If you did I’d buy a computer one.
Not yet no but someone commented there is already some good UI for it I think it's commented in here
For Macbook repairs is the HANTEK 6022BE a good option?
Sure. It will show you signals from SSD, eMMC and so on. You won't see the exact data due to speed but it's enough to see if you actually have signals which will be the main important thing
Nice ❤.
You are using your bench scopes wrong.This "frame merging" emulates the way analog scopes worked (due to phosphor in the oscilloscope tube fading much more slowly), and is fully adjustable. It's a major feature for dealing with analog signals, as it shows all kinds of glitches and is key to properly show AM signals. I suggest looking into display settings in your other scopes. I suspect that Hantek scope also can do that, but due to poor quality they didn't turned it on by default...
Also could you add to the description the models of the scopes shown?
It's not using it wrong if it prevents you seeing low partially broken traces signals for example and glitches. Frame blending should be an option to turn off as it makes the scopes useless for almost all purposes of diagnostics. I've done countless videos showing fixing consoles by seeing a clear frame that you cannot see with blending on
I can list them later have quite a few but will list the main ones
Persistence/intensity grading is an option, usually in Display menu of most DSOs. You can turn it on and off. Also most DSOs, even cheap ones, have quite a few triggering options for finding glitches. For example instead of edge triggering for that video signal you could use Video trigger (for both PAL and NTSC). Runt triggering or window triggering would let you trigger on signals that are between two trigger levels. With window triggering you also can specify how long signal has to stay between levels for trigger. These advanced options usually are not available on cheap PC scopes.
As for list of scopes I meant the three shown in the video, especially bench one, as you didn't say its model number...
My PC scope is £6k and doesn't do the blending. The glitches are not viewable on any trigger mode if overlaid. For example a data line driven on a game gear is a slow ramp if not drive and fast ramp if driven at wrong time. Easily viewable on PC scopes and impossible to see on ones with the mushy mess. I just don't see any point ever of an overlaid mess of historical signals it tells you nothing about the signal. I get where your coming from but doesn't work for how I find problems
@@RetroSix, for that example all you need is "slope trigger". You set up low and high levels for your signal and then set the minimum and maximum rise (or fall) time for the slope to trigger. Check a video tutorial below:
ruclips.net/video/A7y1ypaUDWA/видео.html
As you can see, slope triggering would solve your problem in a pinch. Set the limits you are expecting for a bad line, set mode to single and touch all your address and data lines one after another. Bad one would trigger the scope. All cheap bench scopes can do this, and much, much more. Check reviews of cheap Rigol, Owon and Siglent scopes by Dave Jones from EEVBlog channel. In these he shows all the advanced functions and explains them using various test signals...
The audio post-processing is too aggressive rendering the content almost unintelligible. Sounds like noise reduction gone amuck.
[Having a very hard time understanding what you're saying with the microphone you're using.]
It was a faulty audio lead going back to the recorder. Since fixed it
Are you still doing free repairs if you do a video on them ? If so I have an Atari Lynx Model 2 with a power fault. Turns on then off apparently.
Yep
@@RetroSix Any chance of sending my Lynx 2 in for you to work on ?
Sure just send it in with all the info and return address
@@RetroSix Just need me to put a note in saying free repair or something. I'll sort it. Cheers
Details of issue. Mention it's for RUclips repair. And return address
I just purchased it on Amazon for $67 shipped. Should be here tomorrow.
I had a hantek bench top scope and to be honnest it was a pile of junk. Did the same test on both channels and channel two give a totally different reading to Chanel one plus Chanel 2 you could never get a good square wave without rounded corners or spikes.
Did you use the same probe on both channels? It could be you just didnt adjust the capacitance of one of the probes. Typically you use a test square wave and then you have a screw directly at the probe which adjusts the capacitance. You adjust it until you have a nice and rectangular square wave. Maybe you are already aware of this procedure just writing this in case you didnt know.
@@BenjiShock I used the same probe for both channels, it held a square wave on the one channel but when I plugged the probe into the other channel it was a different story. I even tried adjusting the probe and used a different probe I just got rounded corners. Apparently lots of people have had the same issue. In the end I got shot of the thing.
For a computer monitor oscilloscope screen a white background is much better as you can obviously see between the Pico and the Hantek. The workbench room lighting washes out the Hantek display. On a computer typing text on a white background is much easier to see. You know how difficult it is to read the text on a Command Prompt (CMD) screen.
I found using the hantek with hscope app on Android is amazing, not to mention it's completely portable. The pc software offered by hantek is absolutely useless.
Fnirsi 1013D
The squishy mess of which you complain can be changed in the settings of most 'scopes to show a clean shot.
It can't. I have 6 scope variants, all brands and types, and no options clean up to how absolutely nothing but the single shot but with constant running.
I'd love to be shown it actually doing that though as many say it can, yet I've never seen anyone show that working. It's only clean when paused or it still shows some faint overlay
I've got Tektronix, Rigol, Hantek, Fluke, Owon. None can display it as clear as PicoScope. Hantek gets close and I'd say useable. The expensive brands however don't have any way to turn off the mess
@@RetroSix Keysight and Agilent scopes certainly can.
@@MichaelKingsfordGray Any recommended Keysight? I've always wanted to grab one of those
@@RetroSix The Infinivision series is the "Rolls-Royce" of 'scopes.
i don't know, maybe dso 138? aliexpress?
There's better models than that now, although it is super duper cheapo. That can only go to 100khz though, so good for audio work