Woodland Mills HM130Max Maxed Out Squaring Red Oak
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- Опубликовано: 15 сен 2024
- I randomly came across a crew removing a large oak tree in a neighborhood where we used to live. They were kind enough to let me haul it away for them. A few of these logs were actually too large for the mill and had to be trimmed down. I only canted them for now until I figure out what I want to do with them.
I just received my HM130 max. The most important number for me was the balance of my checking account. Nice video.
Congrats! Now it's time to start designing your sawmill shed. Gotta keep that thing looking and working great.
For ripping chain I just file my chain to a 10 degree angle more like a chisel than a 30 degree angle.. lasts longer in the rip cut. That is some nice wood and color in those logs!
That's a great suggestion. I'll try that with one of my older chains (not sure I'll be good at it first try). Thank you for watching and for your comment.
You good on that skid steer.
Thank you for the compliment and for watching. I enjoy being in the skid steer and watch a lot of other great operators to learn.
Thank you for sharing
Sorry you had clutch problems. Everything I hear, Woodland mills service is top notch. Definitely get a workout on those logs.
They did not disappoint. New clutch is installed and ready to rip through some more logs. Thanks for watching and I appreciate the comment.
Clumsy me, I touched the send button before I finished. I screw a lag bolt into the hole in the squared metal just inside the bark on the side facing me and I throw the chain over the log and pull it back underneath the log and hook it to the forks which are above the log and just pick up the forks and it rolls the log
Great idea. Thank you for the comment.
Like posted below just file your chain to 11 to 15 deg. Get a tool for your filling that tells you angle or if you use grinder its indicated . 15 deg i find lets you cross cut also. If your saw still struggling get a skip tooth chain file it at 15 youll be happy. . Dont waste your money on ripping chain if you ain’t milling with it . Luv your mill 😍
Thank you for the tip. I've got some big stumps staged that I will probably try and shape up with the chainsaw before I can get them on the mill so I will be trying this out soon. Thank you for watching.
I used to flop big logs like that to, but I would always bang the forks into the bunks so now I welded a square 2x2 inch piece of metal with a hole in it and welded a chain to it now after the first side is cut I screw a lag
What you have here gave me a good idea. I liked the way you squared up then stacked your logs. So what my plan is, invest in a chainsaw mill for logs to big, square them up just enough so they fit on my bandsaw mill.
Depending on the length you can square off an end and then stand them up. Running down with gravity made squaring them off easier. It doesn't have to be perfect and id probably just take a bigger chunk off to have plenty of clearance and then throw that on the mill.
Stihl sells rip chain, so does Oregon. Any chain can be cut to rip chain if you grind it back to 11°. I grind my crosscut chains to 27° for a more aggressive cut, they are supposed to be 32°. I use an Oregon chain sharpener that has the rocking cradle. I can get all three angles that they cut at the factory.
I use archer ripping chains on my saw for the chainsaw mill. I seem to get the best results per times I have to sharpen them. Beautiful looking oak
Thanks for the tip. I'll have to check them out. Thanks for watching and for the comment.
new sub here. I enjoy milling but those are some rough logs but will make some beautiful lumber or table tops etc.
Great to have you. I was thinking the same thing. Thanks for the comment.
On mine I ran an Oregon I think the teeth were 10 degree that’s all I bye on all my saws there the best chain I’ve found I’ve been cutting for 40 years
Thanks for sharing. Your mill looks awesome.
Big ones are a challenge especially without heavy equipment
Hi John, thank you for the comment. They sure are time consuming. I don't know that I will take on logs this size until I have a better system for handling them.
What kind of blades are you using? Do you have a metal detector?
These were probably Woodland Mills Blades that I bought with the mill. I did buy a box of Cooks blades next to give them a try.
I do have a metal detector and it works pretty well. It's like one that you would use on the beach, not the small wand kind and so far has worked well when I actually use it.
Thanks for watching and for the comment.
Never owned a mill but planning on buying one. Don't think I'll ever put an oversized log on it.
Great, informative video. Were you using the woodland mills blades? Seemed that they were cutting pretty well through the oak.
Thanks for the compliment and for watching. Yes I believe that was a woodland mills blade. If not it was a cooks but both have been good blades.
Looks like you are going to get some really nice wood from these logs if they are all like the first one.
Thank you for the comment. I am anxiously wanting to get back on the sawmill and finish milling those oak logs. They are already getting some big cracks in them as they dry out. I still can't decided what thickness I will mill them at.
@@CedarTrailsLiving Get some sealant on the ends to help stop any more checking as they dry out, or maybe cut off a few inches from each end and coat the fresh faces of the wood. It should help a lot.
@@stanwiggins3423 I used Anchorseal but I'm finding that these oak logs have so much water in them that even the faces are cracking along with the ends. I think it's best to get them cut down thin rather than let them dry as cants. Have you had luck with Anchorseal or any other sealants?
@@CedarTrailsLiving I have an oak that fell this past winter due to base rot and age. We know it was over 150 years old, and the base is just over 5'wide. some of the branches were over 3' in diameter, but no one within 150 miles of me has a mill big enough to cut slabs. Thought about making an Alaskan Mill assembly but I would need a 30" blade saw to do it. Ended up cutting about 4 cords of wood before the last freeze hit the general Houston area and will probably do that with the rest of it. One professional told me it would take at least a year to 18 months to dry enough to put into a kiln, including a vacuum kiln, and that's a long time to wait.
That is an amazing tree. To get those middle slabs would be hard work on a chainsaw but if you can square it off a little you might be able to get it down to a more manageable size. I can say from experience even a much smaller job than that was very hard work but I also don't have a large chainsaw. If you could square it off by removing about a 12in edge all the way around it would get closer to fitting some of the larger bandsaw mills. That's the approach I should have taken with these. Stand it on end if they are not long and you can let gravity take the saw down which is so much easier than doing it flat. I have decided that is the approach I would take if I get anything over what the mill can handle in the future. I have really given up on slabs, they just take way too long to dry and they warp and cup like crazy.
As for drying, I cut some 6 months ago and recently measured with with a moisture meter and it is still out of range which from what I can tell is somewhere above 30%. Needs to be down around like 8%. That's in a garage and those are around 1 1/4 in thick pieces. Oak seems to really hold the moisture. I cut some pine not too long ago and it is already down around 11%. Even as fire wood seems like it would take some time to get seasoned but a hot fire dries them out in a hurry anyways.
I was looking at purchasing this mill but I was concerned the 14 hp engine a little on the small size. Mill looks like it get: a little wobbly when you got it cutting real high. Thoughts?
Thanks for watching and for the comment. I think the engine has enough horsepower when you have a sharp blade and a good clutch. Those were possibly contributing factors to how well it cut these. It's a sturdy frame but does move on a full width log. I didnt notice any issues with the cut even with the movement and it's more apparent at the max height. In my opinion for the price it performs great. Based on what I saw when shopping, you'd be over twice the price to still cut these size logs with a more professional grade mill. Hope that helps.
I believe they are pin oak, not really good for lumber but great firewood.
Thanks. You sure know your oaks. I'd have to say looking at pictures I'm not sure if I could tell if it is a Pin Oak or Southern Red Oak but those seem to be very close in characteristics. It's been a long time and I still haven't sawn into these cants so it will be interesting to see how they mill having sat around that long. I do have them covered but there is some obvious cracking on those exposed faces. Hopefully I get to mill them soon. Thank you for watching and for the comment.
How many hours on your machine when the clutch was replaced...Did woodland supply it or did you have to purchase it?
I had about 8-10 hrs on the mill but had been milling mostly large logs. I made sure I don't have any pinging at the low idle but either it was not enough clutch for the job or I don't have the high idle adjusted right. I bought a mountable tach to make sure I can properly adjust the RPMs. Woodland Mills sent it with no issues. My mill was damaged during shipping and when I asked them what to do they just asked for a list of damaged parts and sent them. Great company to work with so far. I highly recommend them.
It looks like your carriage needs to be turned 180 deg. to your bed. You are killing away from the stops? FYI.
Thanks for watching and for the comment. I have built a proper shelter for it now and I have the sawhead oriented correctly now.
I use an Oregon ripping chain on a Stihl M311.
That's a great saw. I have had the MS290 with an 18 in bar for awhile now and love it. I just picked up a used MS440 Magnum with a 28 in bar but haven't played with it yet. Thanks for watching, and for the comment.
Wow good job, but now I'm way less excited about big logs
Same here. They are a challenge. I will most likely rip them to 12in wide boards too based on how some of those off cuts warped. I also will let them dry more as cants before cutting to see if that will help.
So am I. When I buy it will more than likely have hydraulics. My grandson will be helping me but just the same we need as much advantage as we can get.
I do alot of chainsaw ripping slabs I use granberg chains out of California
Thanks. I'll check them out.
Hi Tony. Mentioned this to my brother because he has a chainsaw mill and he actually has one of their mills. He said he really likes it.
I can only cut a 26 inch log
Thanks for the video, my 130max will be delivered in November. I've heard from many that ripper37 blades are awesome, check it out.
Congrats on getting a 130max! I will check out those blades. I ordered a box from Cooks to try them out as well. Thanks for the heads up and for the comment.
Your mill head needs to be turned 180 on the track. Your band should be cutting towards the stops, not the clamps.
You are correct. This was my temporary setup until I could build a home for it. In the more recent videos you can see the mill in it's new home and it is oriented properly. Thanks for watching and for taking the time to comment.
Cant hear the mill for tuneless klanky music
Sorry Russell. I'll try and include some better audio next time. I only use the camera mic and the engine sound is overwhelming for it. I'll learn some audio editing and see if I can get some of the static out. Thanks for watching.
If you look on UTube punch in my name you’ll see the chainsaw mill I built I think I had a 36” bar on it
Great mill. Thanks for the comment.