BYD 24v battery breakdown
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- Опубликовано: 10 дек 2019
- I just finished up a quick break down of the BYD 24v battery from www.batteryclearinghouse.com/. These batteries are stout, well designed and HEAVY !
I fast forwarded thru most of the process, but I slowed back to normal speed in some spots that most of us have questions about. If there is not a significant reason to disassemble the battery, I would advise against it.
It appears that the PCB’s are for monitoring the cell voltage and not balancing, but I can not be sure of this. They seem to be too thin to use for balancing.
I drove to Battery Clearing house and met with Guy, they had about 200 or so in this location and more in their other warehouse . Guy said that they normally ship next day, and they have plenty of stock.
The batteries have 2 posts for positive and 2 posts for negative. The bridge between posts are not a solid bar, they are made up of about 100 layers, I presume to allow for expansion and contraction.
In essence, this is a box with 8 batteries in series and two heat sinks. To my knowledge no one has been able to gain access to software on the included BMS, so plan on purchasing one.
Cell voltage was 25.5v upon arrival and the cells were within 1/10 of a volt.
Thanks for the tear down. It helped me understand how these are assembled.
Great job Dan, this provides a route for other configuration.
I love this video and have re-watched it several times. It inspired me to remove my 2 heatsinks making the batteries much smaller and 40 pounds lighter. BTW I measure the internal cell resistance at .0005 ohms so do your own I squared R calculation, but for my modest 40 amps the heatsink and fan are not needed.
Thanks for this video confirming some things I was assuming about it's construction. I do not anticipate cutting the straps on mine.
When I took my straps off the pack grew about 3 inches very quickly due to the bloating, so keep that in mind
thanks for video
note there is a lowish resistance between the metal case and cell terminals so do not stack them without insulation, the white sheet can break easily too.
I have 4 of these and they definitely have a passive balancer. It's a low current balance (82 ohms) but over the long haul it would get the job done. Unfortunately they use a somewhat obscure MAX17830 for the control so the only way in is through their CANbus interface. I presume they use a modified Victron interface, but I have no idea what the protocol is.
Thank you very much! Needed to see what was inside. Any chance you could post dimensions?
Your doing a swell job, Brave man, glad you made a video for us curious. the battery packs have 4 terminals each I figures 2 sets in each pack?
Each battery has 4 terminals, 2 positive on one end and 2 negative on the other. My speculation for this is their length - I would use both connectors if re-wiring is required
useful tip for you as i have a load of these cells, you can use a japanese battery negative terminal and clamp it to the round posts upside down.
@amojak I just figured this out myself independently. Have you found a good source for the terminals? I found a light duty set, but having trouble finding anything high quality other than led adapter shims to us battery posts. Would prefer brass.
What method would you use to connect to those terminals?
How and what would you use to rewire the individual cells?
Have you made any progress in connecting the cells together to form a 12V battery?
I have byd e6 battery packs, which has exactly the same battery cells (8s), in my batfery pack all batteries stuck together, there is no gap or space beetwen cells.
After 3years of use (with special care), i have notice that the cells slightly puffed, still hold capacity well (178Ah per cel). But what i see from your video is, that cells have small gap between, also yours cells are slightly puffed (especially when you put them flat on your bench).
Just wondering is it normal (that puffed sides)?
Anyone know what each cell weighs? I'd love to pick one of these up local here in Raleigh to make for trolling motor batteries but wonder about the weight beings the pack itself is so heavy.
for cell balancing look up capacitive balancers on ebay , unlike resistive ones they move energy about, not throw it away.
I am new to the technologies of these batteries, but my question to you is, how would these fair for electric skate boards?
They claim light weight compared to standard cells.
But if my bayaboard board specs in with a 10S10P battery (50E cell), ESC - 2 x 110A, 2 x 6374 Motors, With 10" pneumatic wheels weights in at approx 21kg, top speed of about 35mph, range is about 55 miles.
How well would these cells transfer over if you took the DIY approach, by the look of it you'd have to take it apart further obviously to break in down. Maybe fit a new ESC? The enclosure of the baja is long and narrow but similar to the width of those blade blocks...
What do you predict would be the outcomes in terms of those existing specs if you were to switch over from the 50E to these.
Hope you get what I mean.
Thanks.
I am seeing alot of these BYD 24V 200AH on sale at Alibaba. They claim it is brand new.. but I am having doubts and having second thoughts buying a few.
Else than hooking up new leads, I will leave mine as alone as possible. I would like to hook up a thermostat and make the fan work when needed.
BYD makes electric vehicles, including transit buses, these were set up this way for very fast discharge/charge times, if using for solar, chances are slim you’ll get it anywhere warm enough for the fan to be needed. I’ll be leaving it as is and utilize the fan for other purpose. Leaving the heat sinks on provides some cooling (heat dissipation) even without the fan, but, still, anyone using for solar could take apart and save space & weight.
how big are the cells?
Have you gone deeper yet? Whats inside the single cells?
Frank, I have not dissected one yet
@@danphillips3160 i hope the best for you guys.
I'm thinking of tearing down my battery and ditching the housing it came in. The battery design is just not convenient For active balancing. Making mid line buses just for that purpose with all the thick gauge cables just for a once in a while thing seems wasteful. I'm thinking it's easier to take the battery apart and refit short cables for bus bars and then I can flip the cells if I need to.
You can make it a 16 cell battery like lego or 24 cell if you can squeeeeeeeeeze them back into the casing, how are you going to connect them back up?
I am looking at several options to put them back together. I am actually looking for 12v not 24, so I may have to build a custom cabinet
@@danphillips3160 How much does each cell weigh?
BYD looks brand new, mine was rough, are all like this New looking?
Where I can buy those batteries?
Alibaba
Has anyone found a connector that naturally fits the original terminal posts on the pack itself. I tried some battery terminals but they were too big. Just curious if anyone has found anything that naturally fits. I am making 48v packs and using the heat sinks as separators of each module. Was hoping to just use the posts if possible rather than making a different connection.
I thought about threading them are they solid copper, have not bought mine yet. they exist but do not know what they are called or look like.
How about adding an inch long piece of copper pipe, with a slit in it lengthwise and use it as a sleeve to slip over the terminal so that it makes it thick enough to use regular battery terminals?
I just bought 4 of these from batteryhookup. I will disassemble them and make 2 -12 volt packs. My idea when disassembling is to cut through the middle of the connecting busses instead of grinding at the post. Look at 5:37 minutes on the video. This will allow a mechanical fastener on the leftover tab at the end of the terminal to recreate connections after i place them in blocks of 4 cells x 4 to end up with 2 massive 12 volt batteries. I am open to any and all comment as I have no idea what I’m doing.
Craig Nelson yeah, I thought about that as a solution. I ended up using aluminum rivets and placing a 1/4” piece of copper c110 side mounted to the terminal where the conductor wraps around to the battery cell. Works like a champ and is a clean design.
Steve Young I would agree that going through the middle of that bus bar is better than grinding the terminal posts. Keep in mind that the bus bar is actually a bunch of thin strips and not a solid piece. I am making 48v marine batteries so I didn’t need separate the cells. I will post some pics of the finished product once completed. I am making three batteries and the first one is almost done. Waiting on a piece from the machine shop to mate them together and finished.
how are you how often get that battery 443-977-8000