Jumper pin 1 to pin 7 with a piece of wire, or a switch. Solder a 22k resistor between pin 3 and 4. ✔ Switches - amzn.to/3lqurTu ✔ 22K Resistors - amzn.to/3lrvFxT ✔ Solder Wick - amzn.to/3xcmWlJ ✔Cheap Soldering Iron - amzn.to/3EjS0Ef ✔ HP Common Slot (Most Common) Breakout - amzn.to/3RNY5hy ✔ HP Flex Slot (Newer Style PSU) Breakout - amzn.to/3lto2qr ✔ HP Common Slot Titanium PSU - ebay.us/gLVa4K ✔ HP Flex Slot Titanium PSU - ebay.us/bInvmW
This model PSU won’t output above ~12.8v, but that has nothing to do with the breakout board. The limitation is the power supply, the breakout board is just mainly connectors. I’m sure some PSUs can be modified to allow 15v+, but I’m not familiar with models that do.
Bro this is exactly why I don't F with server power supplies, every minute of troubleshooting and power not working is lost potential revenue. I may spend more money for ATX but I also don't really have to worry about these issues or melted cables
It’s dramatically more complex initially, but it’s fairly easy to get the right hardware with a bit of effort. If you’re just running one or two PSUs it’s likely easier to just buy ATX. For a larger deployment, it makes a lot more sense to move to server supplies. For titanium efficiency, they’re WAY cheaper. Maybe 1/4 the cost or so, all loaded in. They also tend to be more reliable, cables melting are usually from people using Y splitters, which happens on ATX supplies just the same. But yeah, the solution isn’t solved for you, so with garbage components it’s messy.
I have two parallel breakout boards that turns off and from those two, one is backup and I just put the backup to run and it work for a few days. Than after it stop I get the previous one that failed and put back and it work for another few days. So, probably there is some circuit broken that if you leave disconnected for some time, it work again. Any ideas what could be the problem?
I had issues with 75pct of my PM boards, but he sent me a couple free of charge after 3mo or so. I didnt bother to ask for a replacement 9mo after. Deep in the mines worked fine for me, but i still have not figured out how to connect them to each other so that if one turns off, another one does as well without an ATX in the middle. Ideas?
Yikes, that's a lot of failures. There IS a solution. You can put the switch to the SATA selection on the slave units. The switch can be used on the master to enable/disable that unit. Then connect a PCI-E to FEMALE SATA cable from the master to each slave unit. This means, when the master lights up, the power will kick the relay on the slave units and they will power up. If the main goes down, they all do. This is not 'fault tolerant', since if a slave goes down, the main will not follow. So ideally take this into account with your wiring, and try to power up the computer from the slave. Of course, never split GPU power between two PSUs if you can avoid it. Note: These MUST be the very unusual FEMALE SATA. The super typical male plugs won't work, since that's what's on the breakouts. They're kinda expensive and hard to find, there might be a cheaper way, but this is reliable and fairly elegant. ebay.us/PI3MzB - Female SATA to PCI-E (Male wont work) ebay.us/eILPE5 - Female SATA to PCI-E (Alternative) ebay.us/pn7fcR - Female SATA to PCI-E (Alternative)
Ideally, yes. Sometimes it works if you just short those pins instead of the resistor jumper, but it won’t work with all power supply models, and it consumes a little bit more power.
Yeah, it’s not ‘ideal’ maybe, but the risk is outrageously low in this situation. The bottom of the breakout boards is covered with acrylic on standoffs. There’s a small air gap, and then plastic covering the bottom of the breakout boards. If you dragged millions of these across that carpet, I don’t think a single one would experience a failure as a result, especially when it’s plugged into a PSU. That said, the design on these particular units is still garbage and they fail no matter how they are treated.
this might be a dumbass question but for pins 1 and 7 can we just solder another 22k resistor lol? Or should I just snap one of the metal leads sides of the resistor off and just use that to bridge the connection?
If you use a 22k resistor, the power supply won’t turn on. The jumper between pins 1-7 needs to be under ~500 ohms or so, depending on the PSU model. You can use the leads on the resistors, that works fine. It might be easier to tack a single resistor on each lead, cut the resistor bit off both, and solder the lead ends together. Whatever is easier to manage without burning yourself.
Worked!! thanks bro, you save me from buying 3 new breakouts!!
Jumper pin 1 to pin 7 with a piece of wire, or a switch.
Solder a 22k resistor between pin 3 and 4.
✔ Switches - amzn.to/3lqurTu
✔ 22K Resistors - amzn.to/3lrvFxT
✔ Solder Wick - amzn.to/3xcmWlJ
✔Cheap Soldering Iron - amzn.to/3EjS0Ef
✔ HP Common Slot (Most Common) Breakout - amzn.to/3RNY5hy
✔ HP Flex Slot (Newer Style PSU) Breakout - amzn.to/3lto2qr
✔ HP Common Slot Titanium PSU - ebay.us/gLVa4K
✔ HP Flex Slot Titanium PSU - ebay.us/bInvmW
I think the LED light you see at the far left is an indicator that current is connected, if you disconnect the power, it will turn off.
Great, will this work for the ZSX BREAKOUT BOARD 16 PORTS + PICO 24PIN
Yes, any of the HP common slot PSUs will share this same mod to force the unit on.
Nice work as always.
Going to give this fix a try with my X11. Have you noticed this same problem happening with the ZSX breakout boards?
Unfortunately, the ZSX have the exact same issue. At least it’s not difficult to fix it.
Do this breakout boards have power out puts higher than 12.2 or can you get 15.6 volts ?
This model PSU won’t output above ~12.8v, but that has nothing to do with the breakout board. The limitation is the power supply, the breakout board is just mainly connectors. I’m sure some PSUs can be modified to allow 15v+, but I’m not familiar with models that do.
Bro this is exactly why I don't F with server power supplies, every minute of troubleshooting and power not working is lost potential revenue. I may spend more money for ATX but I also don't really have to worry about these issues or melted cables
It’s dramatically more complex initially, but it’s fairly easy to get the right hardware with a bit of effort. If you’re just running one or two PSUs it’s likely easier to just buy ATX. For a larger deployment, it makes a lot more sense to move to server supplies. For titanium efficiency, they’re WAY cheaper. Maybe 1/4 the cost or so, all loaded in. They also tend to be more reliable, cables melting are usually from people using Y splitters, which happens on ATX supplies just the same. But yeah, the solution isn’t solved for you, so with garbage components it’s messy.
You wouldn't by any chance have a fix for X12 breakout boards for Dell model: L1100A-S0? I am not knowledgeable enough to find a solution on my own.
I’m thinking it’s the same fix, have you tried it?
I thought wrong, here is a link to what you need for the 1100 ruclips.net/video/syfrlyt9CO0/видео.html
@@benjaminquinones1890 It is the top and bottom pin four.
I have two parallel breakout boards that turns off and from those two, one is backup and I just put the backup to run and it work for a few days. Than after it stop I get the previous one that failed and put back and it work for another few days.
So, probably there is some circuit broken that if you leave disconnected for some time, it work again. Any ideas what could be the problem?
That’s the problem they all have. I discuss it a bit more here. ruclips.net/video/jXwTTuPwewY/видео.html
I had issues with 75pct of my PM boards, but he sent me a couple free of charge after 3mo or so. I didnt bother to ask for a replacement 9mo after. Deep in the mines worked fine for me, but i still have not figured out how to connect them to each other so that if one turns off, another one does as well without an ATX in the middle. Ideas?
Yikes, that's a lot of failures.
There IS a solution. You can put the switch to the SATA selection on the slave units. The switch can be used on the master to enable/disable that unit. Then connect a PCI-E to FEMALE SATA cable from the master to each slave unit. This means, when the master lights up, the power will kick the relay on the slave units and they will power up. If the main goes down, they all do. This is not 'fault tolerant', since if a slave goes down, the main will not follow. So ideally take this into account with your wiring, and try to power up the computer from the slave. Of course, never split GPU power between two PSUs if you can avoid it.
Note: These MUST be the very unusual FEMALE SATA. The super typical male plugs won't work, since that's what's on the breakouts. They're kinda expensive and hard to find, there might be a cheaper way, but this is reliable and fairly elegant.
ebay.us/PI3MzB - Female SATA to PCI-E (Male wont work)
ebay.us/eILPE5 - Female SATA to PCI-E (Alternative)
ebay.us/pn7fcR - Female SATA to PCI-E (Alternative)
@@SiCPoWMining Thanks!
Are the resistors required?
Ideally, yes. Sometimes it works if you just short those pins instead of the resistor jumper, but it won’t work with all power supply models, and it consumes a little bit more power.
Isnt the ohm resistor on 4 and 5 not 3 and 4?
😬 Yes, you’re right. I’ll put a pop up over it.
Dude you got them on a polyester carpet!!! static electric y!!!! hint hint!!!!
Yeah, it’s not ‘ideal’ maybe, but the risk is outrageously low in this situation. The bottom of the breakout boards is covered with acrylic on standoffs. There’s a small air gap, and then plastic covering the bottom of the breakout boards. If you dragged millions of these across that carpet, I don’t think a single one would experience a failure as a result, especially when it’s plugged into a PSU. That said, the design on these particular units is still garbage and they fail no matter how they are treated.
thousands of volts in static electricity jumps many gaps !!!!
this might be a dumbass question but for pins 1 and 7 can we just solder another 22k resistor lol? Or should I just snap one of the metal leads sides of the resistor off and just use that to bridge the connection?
If you use a 22k resistor, the power supply won’t turn on. The jumper between pins 1-7 needs to be under ~500 ohms or so, depending on the PSU model. You can use the leads on the resistors, that works fine. It might be easier to tack a single resistor on each lead, cut the resistor bit off both, and solder the lead ends together. Whatever is easier to manage without burning yourself.
yeh,its turn off