I always wondered how they made the hair spring. Looking at the technique I guess a tool can be made that presses the hair at constant (and adjustable) ingress and egress angles so that the finger non-uniformity is removed
:) Watch my 'Makin' a Tool: Hairspring: Hairspring Curling Tweezers' and then Pt. 3 of the hairspring making to see some improvements. Also Repivot22 has a better method of doing the tight inner coils. Here's his video: ruclips.net/video/Ebk1TzH6wUw/видео.html Cheers
Could you not form the spring by wrapping it around a cylinder slightly smaller than the inner coil. This would give a smoother even curve. Or am I missing something?
Absolutely Nigel. In my books, from the first half of the 1900's, are instructions for making hairspring winders: Make a handle with a short axle at the top, and cut two slots in it. One slot going from 7 o'clock to 11 o'clock, the other from 1 o'clock to 5 o'clock. Make a shallow barrel with 4 slots in the rim, and make a lid for it that can be fixed in place. Thread two lengths of hairspring stock into the two slots in the axle and out the 4 slots in the barrel rim. Hold the barrel with one hand, and wind the handle with the other until the spring stock is used up. Tighten the lid and heat treat the barrel to set the springs to shape. This will give you 4 complete hairsprings with a 3 spring gap between each coil for clearance in use. I was having a go at using methods from the mid 1700's (less than a hundred years after the hairspring was invented), and seeing what the most basic tools (eg. no lathe required as for making the tool above), and time, could achieve. Otherwise known as Experimental Archaeology :) All the Best Cheers
@@theselectiveluddite Thank you for clearing that up for me. It's basically the method we used in School to make springs for clockwork toys, just on a much larger scale.
I've watched some contemporary watch makers and when it comes to hairsprings, the name of the game seems to be to minimize the number of corrections. Thus, the advice I've seen being given out is to always work from the center and out since that will help you avoid to have later corrections interfere with earlier ones. Also, the order seems to be to make the coils co-planar first and adjust the spacing last. I'm assuming that is done since it's easier to adjust spacing with co-planar coils. Further, the general advice seems to be to use 180 degrees when correcting planes and 90 degrees when correcting spacing.
Thanks :) I'm constantly amazed at what skills people developed with minimal tooling; just time, patience, and aptitude. I don't want to see those skills lost. Part 3 is better, as I made some discoveries/improvements to the way I was doing things. Have a Good New Year.
I agree, the only video's that are too long are the ones that constantly repeat themselves for no reason with horrible annoying background 'music' that's way too loud.
Thanks Josue, Be sure to watch these two following videos, about making a much better tool to do the curling with, and putting it all into practice to finish the spring. All the Best. ruclips.net/video/0h--nJZPVD4/видео.htmlsi=E2YXlOVMKM00moR9 ruclips.net/video/98wI6IA4TH0/видео.htmlsi=nuV6an-8fmU23zqk
G'day Styx, Yes, go to archive.org and use the search bar in the middle of the page.Their search engine is a bit clunky, but persist. Try capitals at the start of major words. I've downloaded about 30 books from the late 1800's to the late 1600's as PDF's. All free. If there are several different institutions that have scanned a particular title, and one of them is the Getty Research Institute, grab theirs as they tend to take care with their scans.Also, if there's a book with a few large, detailed, engravings, I've found it best to zoom in on them with Archive's viewer and save the images individually. Here are some examples: archive.org/details/cu31924031263134 archive.org/details/prizeessayoncon00grosgoog/page/n45/mode/2up archive.org/details/watchclockmaking00glas Google search for lists of 1700's and 1800's watchmaking author's names, and try typing them into Archive and see what turns up. The advantage of going back in time is that the authors won't be assuming you have CNC, and milling machine capabilities, but rather fairly simple hand tools :) All the best.
@@styx4947 No problems :) It's worth getting some of the French books from the 1700's, even if, like me, you can't really read French, for the fantastic engravings, which do tell you quite a lot. Ferdinand Berthoud being one, Diderot & d' Alembert being another. They put out a huge encyclopaedia on all the trades of France, with break down illustrations of tools Cheers.
@@styx4947 And here's another that looks interesting (having read the Preface and looked at the contents page); from 1873. archive.org/details/atreatiseonwatc00neltgoog/page/n4/mode/2up
Excelente tutoríal el mejor que he visto respecto a la reparación total de un espiral dañado . Estoy trabajando en eso . Excelente muy bien explicado . Saludos y gracias por tan grande aporte de sabiduría relojera .
I always wondered how they made the hair spring. Looking at the technique I guess a tool can be made that presses the hair at constant (and adjustable) ingress and egress angles so that the finger non-uniformity is removed
:) Watch my 'Makin' a Tool: Hairspring: Hairspring Curling Tweezers' and then Pt. 3 of the hairspring making to see some improvements. Also Repivot22 has a better method of doing the tight inner coils. Here's his video: ruclips.net/video/Ebk1TzH6wUw/видео.html
Cheers
When I am leveling out the hairspring I have the tweezers a little more apart so there is less chance of sharp twists
G'day Fergus! Makes sense :) I shall have to train myself to do likewise.
great tutorial Sir! proof that patience wins every time, thanks a million for posting this
Could you not form the spring by wrapping it around a cylinder slightly smaller than the inner coil.
This would give a smoother even curve.
Or am I missing something?
Absolutely Nigel. In my books, from the first half of the 1900's, are instructions for making hairspring winders:
Make a handle with a short axle at the top, and cut two slots in it. One slot going from 7 o'clock to 11 o'clock, the other from 1 o'clock to 5 o'clock.
Make a shallow barrel with 4 slots in the rim, and make a lid for it that can be fixed in place.
Thread two lengths of hairspring stock into the two slots in the axle and out the 4 slots in the barrel rim.
Hold the barrel with one hand, and wind the handle with the other until the spring stock is used up.
Tighten the lid and heat treat the barrel to set the springs to shape.
This will give you 4 complete hairsprings with a 3 spring gap between each coil for clearance in use.
I was having a go at using methods from the mid 1700's (less than a hundred years after the hairspring was invented), and seeing what the most basic tools (eg. no lathe required as for making the tool above), and time, could achieve. Otherwise known as Experimental Archaeology :)
All the Best
Cheers
@@theselectiveluddite Thank you for clearing that up for me.
It's basically the method we used in School to make springs for clockwork toys, just on a much larger scale.
@@nigelnightmare4160 No worries :) Making clockwork toy springs sounds interesting.
@@theselectiveluddite Aye Metalwork in school was fun for a 12yr old, that was 46 yrs ago.
@@nigelnightmare4160 :) Well, I'm getting into watchmaking, and I'm 54 :) Good magnification....
I've watched some contemporary watch makers and when it comes to hairsprings, the name of the game seems to be to minimize the number of corrections. Thus, the advice I've seen being given out is to always work from the center and out since that will help you avoid to have later corrections interfere with earlier ones.
Also, the order seems to be to make the coils co-planar first and adjust the spacing last. I'm assuming that is done since it's easier to adjust spacing with co-planar coils.
Further, the general advice seems to be to use 180 degrees when correcting planes and 90 degrees when correcting spacing.
Fantastic
Me gustaría tambien en español gracias....
Hola Casto, prueba la traducción automática, español, en la configuración en la parte inferior de la pantalla. Mis mejores deseos.
Excelente..
Hello, good evening, can you please tell me what type of paper you use to practice the spiral clock arrangement? Thanks Luis, greetings from Spain.
G'day Luis, It's just ordinary paper that we put in our desktop printer :) Cheers
That was fantastic...great tips and skills 👍
Yes… that’s the reason why it’s called: „Art“
Thanks :) I'm constantly amazed at what skills people developed with minimal tooling; just time, patience, and aptitude. I don't want to see those skills lost. Part 3 is better, as I made some discoveries/improvements to the way I was doing things.
Have a Good New Year.
Don't ever apologize for a "long video" Beautiful work
Thanks :)
I agree, the only video's that are too long are the ones that constantly repeat themselves for no reason with horrible annoying background 'music' that's way too loud.
Great video!,thank you so much!!!
Thanks Josue, Be sure to watch these two following videos, about making a much better tool to do the curling with, and putting it all into practice to finish the spring. All the Best.
ruclips.net/video/0h--nJZPVD4/видео.htmlsi=E2YXlOVMKM00moR9
ruclips.net/video/98wI6IA4TH0/видео.htmlsi=nuV6an-8fmU23zqk
@@theselectiveluddite yes ,i will,bery exited ,i am thinking to get some experience on coke can strips .
Hi, love the l your channel Iam a budding watch maker myslelf. I was wondering if you knew any
Excellent tutorial, great explanation of the things you need to do.👍🏼
Great this is also how you straighten a hairspring on a messed up watch.
Nice
Thank You :)
I meant to ask if you knew any books in watchmaking online that I are freely donloadabl
G'day Styx, Yes, go to archive.org and use the search bar in the middle of the page.Their search engine is a bit clunky, but persist. Try capitals at the start of major words. I've downloaded about 30 books from the late 1800's to the late 1600's as PDF's. All free. If there are several different institutions that have scanned a particular title, and one of them is the Getty Research Institute, grab theirs as they tend to take care with their scans.Also, if there's a book with a few large, detailed, engravings, I've found it best to zoom in on them with Archive's viewer and save the images individually. Here are some examples:
archive.org/details/cu31924031263134
archive.org/details/prizeessayoncon00grosgoog/page/n45/mode/2up
archive.org/details/watchclockmaking00glas
Google search for lists of 1700's and 1800's watchmaking author's names, and try typing them into Archive and see what turns up. The advantage of going back in time is that the authors won't be assuming you have CNC, and milling machine capabilities, but rather fairly simple hand tools :)
All the best.
@@theselectiveluddite thank you so much for that. I do appreciate it.
@@styx4947 No problems :) It's worth getting some of the French books from the 1700's, even if, like me, you can't really read French, for the fantastic engravings, which do tell you quite a lot. Ferdinand Berthoud being one, Diderot & d' Alembert being another. They put out a huge encyclopaedia on all the trades of France, with break down illustrations of tools
Cheers.
@@styx4947 And here's another that looks interesting (having read the Preface and looked at the contents page); from 1873. archive.org/details/atreatiseonwatc00neltgoog/page/n4/mode/2up
@@theselectiveluddite thanks again. I'll will certainly keep you up dated as my journey goes forth.
Excelente tutoríal el mejor que he visto respecto a la reparación total de un espiral dañado . Estoy trabajando en eso . Excelente muy bien explicado . Saludos y gracias por tan grande aporte de sabiduría relojera .
Gracias Ringo. Glad you liked it :) All the best with your project.
I wish u can fix my hublot spring please help me
G'day Ronnie, I'm afraid that I'm not skilled enough for that job. Look on line for watchmakers in your area, or nearby cities. All the best.