Please tell me more about hard start kits being negative. I’d appreciate it. These videos have been enlightening and I have been in this trade for almost 20 years as a refrigeration mechanic, gas fitter, and electrician. Thanks for the quality content!
Yes. They have condensation nearly 100% of runtime, so if the paint is chipped on older equipment, chances are you're gonna find leaks. I've found them on the top also.
1) They leak up at where the factory connections are at copper to steel joint also. ( top of accumulator ) 2) also at Overtemperature Relief Plug in top area on Heatcraft units. ( see one of my videos if you don’t believe) 3) also at welds - top & bottom. Rust out. 4) bottom stud - as everyone is mentioning. 5) Factory paperwork says good life is 5-8 years on accumulator. After that all bets are off. 6) After welding in - I have started wire brushing & painting any burnt areas at top connections. Especially on marine applications.
@@OcRefrig thanks for the wire brush paint it tip. My top area is rusty and needs that. It’s like 20 yrs old surprised it has not leaked already. I keep bottom of condenser clean of junk so that helps I guess. Thanks!
Mr Brian,thank you for these videos .For some of us studying online these videos are sooooo valuable! Your students are lucky to have you as an instructor.
just started this trade, thank you sir for putting this together in a concise explanation, im going to a school via our union in florida and these classes are helping fill some gaps where i dont fully understand at school. i love the animation, just seeing it helps tremendously.
Love the chit chat with the techs you have now that’s an employer who teaches and strengthens their employee training kudos to you all and for sharing that knowledge.
Nice video I’m a technician of 37 years and learned a few things. About the oil test I did a compressor replacement in freezer the compressor was $5000.00 alone Wholesale. Needless to say I came by a few times to do inspection of oil site glass and a few oil acid tests. as he said in this video which is correct commercial compressors can be very expensive
Good job. One correction at 11:06 Liquid will end up in the compressor oil regardless of temperature difference because oil has a very low vapor pressure, and the refrigerant vapor migrates into the compressor oil to increase the vapor pressure of the mixture. (Think of the low vapor pressure of the oil as like a very slight vacuum. It takes quite a while for this to happen. Manufacturers asked that the CC heaters be activated before startup because the bulk of the refrigerant shipped in the equipment will always be in the compressor oil. This is also a reason why compressors have twice the minimum operating oil ensure that they have enough oil under widely varying conditions.)
Great stuff. Coastal Nc area,Blackbeard Country. RustyTanks and Driers blow first,then Coils. A.c.r 30 Yrs. Sometimes I'll wrap a new Tank with black cork tar tape. It will never rust out. Ocean Salt galore. Life is a Beach! Great vids!
Thanks Brian, a good topic to attention. Replacing the accumulator requirs attention about the size. If you describe little about what could happen when installing a bigger size accumulator in the system.? Thanks again
Just changed a compressor tonight,only to find a bad accumulator,I changed drier,contactor,dual cap,braised with nitrogen,had a feeling accumulator was bad knew I should have replaced it to,now have to recover and either flush or replace accumulator,thought it was mechanical but nope
Knowledgable guy but this is known in education circles as a talking head. I’m glad you added the pictures and illustrations which helps undo the boring talking head. I don’t think the students in the classroom had this advantage.
I would love feedback on this: probably five or six times in the last 15 years I’ve gone back on heat pumps and found them drastically overcharged however the overcharge is not immediately apparent. I’ve checked systems letting them run 30+ minutes only to go back a week later and find them off on high pressure And then proceed to recover sometimes more than 3 pounds. These are systems that are more than five years old and the question becomes how in the heck have they been running the whole time?! The only commonality is that they are all heat pumps so I presumed the accumulator has been acting as a receiver.
👍🏻👍🏻 Thanks, Excellent as usual ‼️ I never knew oil could be bad and yet not look bad, as in black, or smell bad, as in burnt. I learned something new.
I took a compressor class by Copeland one time and they said the oil in a compressor should look new the same as it went in..."this is not an internal combustion engine...there is nothing inside the system to make it dirty" if its black it has been overheated/burnt.
I wish I could post a picture of 2 accumulators in an industrial setting. I had one that was for the cooler, and one for latent heat of fusion feeding a turbo ice maker. Had gravity fed vacuum tubes also. Some knarley rotary screw compressors let me tell you
This explains accumulator well. I had asked the question about what that cylinder was next to the compressor. Now I know. Mine is also a Carrier which I think you mention uses them a lot. The top junction looks like rusty and corrosion. I think I will wire brush and paint it. Thanks for the great video
Great video. I learned a couple things. Should super Heat be measured on the suction line entering the accumulator, or should it be measured as it enters the compressor? And that’s a good point about crankcase heaters. Is there a reason the CCH is more common on a recip than it is a scroll?
@@brianlittle717 Not cold oil. Liquid refrigerant slugging. Scrolls are designed so that the compression chamber between the scrolls opens up (enlarges) whenever non-condensable liquid refrigerant or oil completely fills the compression chamber.
Is that the same thing as when it bypasses at 625psi? And how does the chamber get full of liquid? I know some liquid will go through it if it’s frozen up or when you’re charging it but that’s not a full chamber is it? It should be able to handle that. And if there’s a suction trap and it fills with oil then it might get a big gulp from that once in a while. But how does the crankcase heater prevent a full chamber of liquid if it’s not the oil we are worried about?
It's nice if we know the refrigerant capacity of a system, but we don't always. We tend to look at superheat on a cap system and subcool on a TXV system, but the manufacturer doesn't always give those numbers, so we use ball park numbers. I learned from others that while the system is running properly, the accumulator should be filled to about 2/3's of it's capacity. Like others, I've flashed it with a torch and then used a thermal camera to look at the liquid level, some will put their hands on the side and feel the liquid line. You didn't mention any of this, is it a wives tale? I'm rebuilding a wine celler control system, will have to charge it by the gage readings, but it does have an accumulator. A method I used one time, measured the volume of the accumulator, then calculated 2/3, got that number, then found the density of the refrigerant, and once charged by the numbers, then added enough refrigerant to fill the accumulator to 2/3, did I over-do it? Always appreciate the videos - Jim
You do not charge a Refrigeration circuit by filling the accumulator. I believe you might be thinking of a receiver. These are 2 different components that do 2 different jobs. By design a well balanced system with an accumulator will not have any refrigerant in it. When a TXV is used it's job is to control superheat. A fixed orifice if charged correctly will rarely bring saturated refrigerant to the accumulator. But due to system operating parameters a heat pump or low temp refrigeration system could have saturated refrigerant returning to the accumulator. Mainly because of frost or ice on the evaporator. It is common to fill a receiver to 80-90% capacitor for condenser flooding, when teamed up with a head pressure control valve aka headmaster. Receivers are common on Refrigeration units. I hope this helps
I had a Rheem heat pump Freon leak and bad compressor. Figured leak was in indoor coil.. customer decided better solution to replace compressor. So I did, 1 month later I discover the new comp is dead. So i warranty it out. But I notice there’s 0 oil in the compressor. I thought wow no wonder it roasted. Then I put the other new one in pressure test is ok. But I know it’s leaking so I ignore it. Pull my vac and I’m seeing tons of vapor exhausting. So I start looking at my joints. All good. Then I lean on the accumulator and hear the hiss of death. That accumulator had cracked on the bottom and the oil and rust would semi seal it and it had leaked all the oil out underneath it but you couldn’t tell because it ran under the condensing unit… rheem is not my fav system lol. And I cut the accumulator out and straight pipes it works perfect now lol
Watching these videos with peanuts in the background and waiting for them to give you the right answer is sooooooo grueling. It’s why I never liked school. Just get to the point! Sheesh. I love the information and am grateful but I wish these videos were edited.
Does the accumulator always need to be have liquid refrigerant to return oil to the compressor? FYI when running in Heat Pump at really low temps, the density of liquid refrigerant can be more than the oil (depending on refrigerant and oil combination) causing oil return issues.
I am not an experienced technician and I am far from what I see as an expert but I understand that electrical issues are almost never lightning strikes. I guess my question is, is this really a common thing? I wouldn't have expected it to be.
Many years ago, compressor manufacturers claimed that a majority of compressors returned under warranty were not failed. I expect the same is true today because of incompetent technicians.
@lynncomstock1255 and $$$ grab. I just had a unit in trouble Trane 2 stage where it cycled on and off quickly several times until Thermostat (Nest) error coded E107. Wiring issue. 1st tech came, and diagnosis was compressor on 7yo unit. Over $2k under warranty to replace it. I'm not tech or hvac trained, but ?wiring code =compressor? 2nd tech came and troubleshooting couldn't figure it out initially. He jumped it past thermostat and compressor worked fine. His diagnosis is thermostat bad. Replaced thermostat with original b4 Nest installed and working fine. Saved me $2k and found a new customer. Honesty drives profits through happy customer referrals. Glad to hear you, sir. training student techs to replace the contactor and do preventive to keep from having another call back in 2 weeks/months.
Can someone expand on the 'hard start kit' part... If I have a presently well working system should I not add one? I was led to believe recently that even on a properly functioning system ( mine is a 9 year old Rheem, in SE Michigan) that a hard start kit is an "upgrade" and would likely extend the life of the compressor....
Thank you for domistraion, can I install acumelater in havc 6 ton that has recipating compressor inoder to protect my compressor in long run life of compressor
Hi, I have a 6 Ton carrier split system (AC only) with a "Piston" I would like to replace it with a Sporlan TXV (I have the TXV on hand) but I also want to add a suction line accumilator . What size range of the accumilator (in Liters) should I use . Thanks very much
Are there any videos that don't act like a school asking questions as though you have already been given the info, but just relay the information? I like the info, but am way past going to school (I'm 74).
The funny thing about skilled trades is that you can master one and be really good at it but you can't balance both. I've met plenty of people in my day that claim to do both but they are never masters of both. They chose one or the other but they will always say they know both. Stick with one trade and master it. I can pick up on a person that "pretends" to know it all. It's bullshit. I'm a card carrying plumber in ohio and I don't pretend to know hvac. I worked in hvac for a year and a half and I still don't pretend to know how to service hvac. It takes over 5 years to become a good tech in either trade. Stick to one and master one. It's easy to pretend to know both if you know how to talk but in reality you are just doing both and hoping those certified employees don't ever mess up.
BECAUSE A COMPRESSOR CANT COMPRESS LIQUID!!! Can’t someone just say that??? For F@CK sake… I would have to avoid these little get togethers… and YES WE DO talk JUST LIKE THAT in THIS-HOUSE…🤣😂 poor Brian…
My carrier is over 20 yrs old. I am happy with it overall. Changed contactor and cap myself and also installed 5-2-1 recently. Copeland scroll compressor. Happy overall
@@condor5635 Its funny because all of my training is from Carrier. In Florida, the A/C gets used for 10 to 12 months out of the year. Over the years for me, the average seemed like 7-10 years Max. Back in the day, before they got bought out by Trane, I saw General Electric ⚡️ units over 25 years old still running.
Good video. I knew the basic understand of the accumulator. But I can say I learned about the holes in the pick up tube today !!
😂😂😂e😮😅
Please tell me more about hard start kits being negative. I’d appreciate it.
These videos have been enlightening and I have been in this trade for almost 20 years as a refrigeration mechanic, gas fitter, and electrician.
Thanks for the quality content!
Tech tip....accumulators can and do leak....usually from the bottom. Don't forget to check them on a leak search
Yes. They have condensation nearly 100% of runtime, so if the paint is chipped on older equipment, chances are you're gonna find leaks. I've found them on the top also.
Changed 2 out last week bottom leaks
Almost always. Especially in heatpumps when they get full of dead leaves or muddy sand that holds water.
1) They leak up at where the factory connections are at copper to steel joint also. ( top of accumulator )
2) also at Overtemperature Relief Plug in top area on Heatcraft units. ( see one of my videos if you don’t believe)
3) also at welds - top & bottom. Rust out.
4) bottom stud - as everyone is mentioning.
5) Factory paperwork says good life is 5-8 years on accumulator. After that all bets are off.
6) After welding in - I have started wire brushing & painting any burnt areas at top connections. Especially on marine applications.
@@OcRefrig thanks for the wire brush paint it tip. My top area is rusty and needs that. It’s like 20 yrs old surprised it has not leaked already. I keep bottom of condenser clean of junk so that helps I guess. Thanks!
As an HVAC instructor, I appreciated your pain when you asked a simple question and nobody answered.
Or an answer they just pulled from their behind.
Mr Brian,thank you for these videos .For some of us studying online these videos are sooooo valuable! Your students are lucky to have you as an instructor.
I give you two thumbs up my friend
I have been a HVAC / Refrigeration technician for over 42 years
I'm considering entering the trade and the amount of information I've learned from this channel for free is incredible. Thank you so much!
just started this trade, thank you sir for putting this together in a concise explanation, im going to a school via our union in florida and these classes are helping fill some gaps where i dont fully understand at school. i love the animation, just seeing it helps tremendously.
Love the chit chat with the techs you have now that’s an employer who teaches and strengthens their employee training kudos to you all and for sharing that knowledge.
Nice video I’m a technician of 37 years and learned a few things. About the oil test I did a compressor replacement in freezer the compressor was $5000.00 alone Wholesale. Needless to say I came by a few times to do inspection of oil site glass and a few oil acid tests. as he said in this video which is correct commercial compressors can be very expensive
You sir are a honest contractor. Thank you.
Watching and sending support thanks for sharing
Good job. One correction at 11:06 Liquid will end up in the compressor oil regardless of temperature difference because oil has a very low vapor pressure, and the refrigerant vapor migrates into the compressor oil to increase the vapor pressure of the mixture. (Think of the low vapor pressure of the oil as like a very slight vacuum. It takes quite a while for this to happen. Manufacturers asked that the CC heaters be activated before startup because the bulk of the refrigerant shipped in the equipment will always be in the compressor oil. This is also a reason why compressors have twice the minimum operating oil ensure that they have enough oil under widely varying conditions.)
This video came at a right time. I wanted more knowledge on accumulators and this video was recommended on the algorithm.
Great stuff. Coastal Nc area,Blackbeard Country. RustyTanks and Driers blow first,then Coils. A.c.r 30 Yrs. Sometimes I'll wrap a new Tank with black cork tar tape. It will never rust out. Ocean Salt galore. Life is a Beach! Great vids!
Thank you so much for these work meeting videos and all the others you do. They are all awesome 👏
Thanks Brian, a good topic to attention.
Replacing the accumulator requirs attention about the size.
If you describe little about what could happen when installing a bigger size accumulator in the system.?
Thanks again
Struggling with a iced up accumulator. What can the problem be? This helps alot on clearing things about accumulators
thank you for awesome and informative knowledge
love these videos, hvac terms are so different than my field, very interesting !!!
Now i have understanding of the accumulater , thank you !
Good information regarding accumulator....i heard this types of leakage in bottom of accumulator.
Just changed a compressor tonight,only to find a bad accumulator,I changed drier,contactor,dual cap,braised with nitrogen,had a feeling accumulator was bad knew I should have replaced it to,now have to recover and either flush or replace accumulator,thought it was mechanical but nope
Knowledgable guy but this is known in education circles as a talking head. I’m glad you added the pictures and illustrations which helps undo the boring talking head. I don’t think the students in the classroom had this advantage.
I would love feedback on this: probably five or six times in the last 15 years I’ve gone back on heat pumps and found them drastically overcharged however the overcharge is not immediately apparent. I’ve checked systems letting them run 30+ minutes only to go back a week later and find them off on high pressure And then proceed to recover sometimes more than 3 pounds. These are systems that are more than five years old and the question becomes how in the heck have they been running the whole time?! The only commonality is that they are all heat pumps so I presumed the accumulator has been acting as a receiver.
Did you remove all the refrigerant and weigh it back in? Or did you go by the manufacturers literature (pressure curves, subcool charts etc)?
Thank you for putting together this informative video.
👍🏻👍🏻 Thanks, Excellent as usual ‼️
I never knew oil could be bad and yet not look bad, as in black, or smell bad, as in burnt. I learned something new.
I took a compressor class by Copeland one time and they said the oil in a compressor should look new the same as it went in..."this is not an internal combustion engine...there is nothing inside the system to make it dirty" if its black it has been overheated/burnt.
Lots of helpful ideas. Thanks.
I wish I could post a picture of 2 accumulators in an industrial setting. I had one that was for the cooler, and one for latent heat of fusion feeding a turbo ice maker. Had gravity fed vacuum tubes also. Some knarley rotary screw compressors let me tell you
This explains accumulator well. I had asked the question about what that cylinder was next to the compressor. Now I know. Mine is also a Carrier which I think you mention uses them a lot. The top junction looks like rusty and corrosion. I think I will wire brush and paint it. Thanks for the great video
Accumulator sizing on variable speed compressor systems are critical and the same pipe sized accumulator must go in place if it is initially installed
Great video. I learned a couple things. Should super Heat be measured on the suction line entering the accumulator, or should it be measured as it enters the compressor? And that’s a good point about crankcase heaters. Is there a reason the CCH is more common on a recip than it is a scroll?
Reciprocating compressors have crankcase heaters more often because slugging can bend the valves in the compressor
@@michaelwhitaker7764 I guess that makes sense. So you’re saying it’s harder to damage the scroll from cold oil?
@@brianlittle717 Not cold oil. Liquid refrigerant slugging. Scrolls are designed so that the compression chamber between the scrolls opens up (enlarges) whenever non-condensable liquid refrigerant or oil completely fills the compression chamber.
Is that the same thing as when it bypasses at 625psi? And how does the chamber get full of liquid? I know some liquid will go through it if it’s frozen up or when you’re charging it but that’s not a full chamber is it? It should be able to handle that. And if there’s a suction trap and it fills with oil then it might get a big gulp from that once in a while. But how does the crankcase heater prevent a full chamber of liquid if it’s not the oil we are worried about?
It's nice if we know the refrigerant capacity of a system, but we don't always. We tend to look at superheat on a cap system and subcool on a TXV system, but the manufacturer doesn't always give those numbers, so we use ball park numbers. I learned from others that while the system is running properly, the accumulator should be filled to about 2/3's of it's capacity. Like others, I've flashed it with a torch and then used a thermal camera to look at the liquid level, some will put their hands on the side and feel the liquid line. You didn't mention any of this, is it a wives tale?
I'm rebuilding a wine celler control system, will have to charge it by the gage readings, but it does have an accumulator. A method I used one time, measured the volume of the accumulator, then calculated 2/3, got that number, then found the density of the refrigerant, and once charged by the numbers, then added enough refrigerant to fill the accumulator to 2/3, did I over-do it?
Always appreciate the videos - Jim
You do not charge a Refrigeration circuit by filling the accumulator. I believe you might be thinking of a receiver. These are 2 different components that do 2 different jobs. By design a well balanced system with an accumulator will not have any refrigerant in it. When a TXV is used it's job is to control superheat. A fixed orifice if charged correctly will rarely bring saturated refrigerant to the accumulator. But due to system operating parameters a heat pump or low temp refrigeration system could have saturated refrigerant returning to the accumulator. Mainly because of frost or ice on the evaporator. It is common to fill a receiver to 80-90% capacitor for condenser flooding, when teamed up with a head pressure control valve aka headmaster. Receivers are common on Refrigeration units. I hope this helps
I've always chased my aspirations, but I never really accumulated much.
🤣🤣🤣🤣 are you friends with TY Branaman? Lol
I had a Rheem heat pump Freon leak and bad compressor. Figured leak was in indoor coil.. customer decided better solution to replace compressor. So I did, 1 month later I discover the new comp is dead. So i warranty it out. But I notice there’s 0 oil in the compressor. I thought wow no wonder it roasted. Then I put the other new one in pressure test is ok. But I know it’s leaking so I ignore it. Pull my vac and I’m seeing tons of vapor exhausting. So I start looking at my joints. All good. Then I lean on the accumulator and hear the hiss of death. That accumulator had cracked on the bottom and the oil and rust would semi seal it and it had leaked all the oil out underneath it but you couldn’t tell because it ran under the condensing unit… rheem is not my fav system lol. And I cut the accumulator out and straight pipes it works perfect now lol
Good 👍
Thanks lots of helpful ideas
Thanks!!
Thank you
Watching these videos with peanuts in the background and waiting for them to give you the right answer is sooooooo grueling. It’s why I never liked school. Just get to the point! Sheesh. I love the information and am grateful but I wish these videos were edited.
Nice video
Does the accumulator always need to be have liquid refrigerant to return oil to the compressor? FYI when running in Heat Pump at really low temps, the density of liquid refrigerant can be more than the oil (depending on refrigerant and oil combination) causing oil return issues.
I am not an experienced technician and I am far from what I see as an expert but I understand that electrical issues are almost never lightning strikes. I guess my question is, is this really a common thing? I wouldn't have expected it to be.
Many years ago, compressor manufacturers claimed that a majority of compressors returned under warranty were not failed. I expect the same is true today because of incompetent technicians.
@lynncomstock1255 and $$$ grab. I just had a unit in trouble Trane 2 stage where it cycled on and off quickly several times until Thermostat (Nest) error coded E107. Wiring issue. 1st tech came, and diagnosis was compressor on 7yo unit. Over $2k under warranty to replace it. I'm not tech or hvac trained, but ?wiring code =compressor?
2nd tech came and troubleshooting couldn't figure it out initially. He jumped it past thermostat and compressor worked fine. His diagnosis is thermostat bad. Replaced thermostat with original b4 Nest installed and working fine. Saved me $2k and found a new customer. Honesty drives profits through happy customer referrals.
Glad to hear you, sir. training student techs to replace the contactor and do preventive to keep from having another call back in 2 weeks/months.
Should you replace the reversing valve when replacing the Compressor.
Solid video.
very well done!!
Excellent!
Serious question - why do we charge liquid into the suction line if liquid is bad for the compressor?
😊 Nice 😊 video 😊 sir 😊
well done thank you
Is it normal to have a sweating accumulator in a hot humid day? I found a pond of condensation water under the outdoor unit. Thanks!
Good Sir
Can someone expand on the 'hard start kit' part... If I have a presently well working system should I not add one? I was led to believe recently that even on a properly functioning system ( mine is a 9 year old Rheem, in SE Michigan) that a hard start kit is an "upgrade" and would likely extend the life of the compressor....
Yeah you can add one. It would be best if they all just came stock with them but that would be expensive and people don't wanna pay for that
Thank you for domistraion, can I install acumelater in havc 6 ton that has recipating compressor inoder to protect my compressor in long run life of compressor
Very cool.
I'm in Orlando. How can I find this course and take this course in person?
Amazing 😊
Hi, I have a 6 Ton carrier split system (AC only) with a "Piston" I would like to replace it with a Sporlan TXV (I have the TXV on hand) but I also want to add a suction line accumilator . What size range of the accumilator (in Liters) should I use . Thanks very much
Could you explain why a system fault could be exacerbated by the client running the interior ambient higher.
Good
I am one to install a suction and liquid line filters. I heads off a lot of problems.
They say not to install a suction dryer only after a burnout.
The last I looked, refrigerant is heavier than oil...therefore oil floats on it. (7:33) not as stated. But, good video anyway.
Same thought here
Do ac only have accumulators I had one with some sort of cartridges on the liquid line not filter dryer
thanks for the great info!
Are there any videos that don't act like a school asking questions as though you have already been given the info, but just relay the information? I like the info, but am way past going to school (I'm 74).
Q. How to size an accumulator on a system that should have had one..?
شكرا
GREAT INFO! THANK YOU
👍👍👍
Wish Lennox would use an accumulator and get rid of the outdoor txv
So if we don’t want refrigerant in systems, does that mean pumping down a system is bad for it?
The funny thing about skilled trades is that you can master one and be really good at it but you can't balance both. I've met plenty of people in my day that claim to do both but they are never masters of both. They chose one or the other but they will always say they know both. Stick with one trade and master it. I can pick up on a person that "pretends" to know it all. It's bullshit. I'm a card carrying plumber in ohio and I don't pretend to know hvac. I worked in hvac for a year and a half and I still don't pretend to know how to service hvac. It takes over 5 years to become a good tech in either trade. Stick to one and master one. It's easy to pretend to know both if you know how to talk but in reality you are just doing both and hoping those certified employees don't ever mess up.
Liquids can't be compressed
Someone told me those old TRANE orange compressors (Easter egg) had internal accumulators
So if we don’t want refriger
Why did you mention accumulator with heat exchanger???
Accumulator prak tips
BECAUSE A COMPRESSOR CANT COMPRESS LIQUID!!! Can’t someone just say that??? For F@CK sake… I would have to avoid these little get togethers… and YES WE DO talk JUST LIKE THAT in THIS-HOUSE…🤣😂 poor Brian…
Then one day I’d be walking past, hearing Brian’s explanation n think to myself, wait, I didn’t know that…
I've never had a compressor and probably done hundreds I have come with a new wiring harness🧐
carbon flakes
Asking questions as a method of teaching is not teaching. It’s just a bad conversation.Right?
Ask Socrates
I always hated those damn steel accumulators that would rust out and leak. Especially Carrier and their shit brands.
My carrier is over 20 yrs old. I am happy with it overall. Changed contactor and cap myself and also installed 5-2-1 recently. Copeland scroll compressor. Happy overall
@@condor5635 Its funny because all of my training is from Carrier. In Florida, the A/C gets used for 10 to 12 months out of the year. Over the years for me, the average seemed like 7-10 years Max. Back in the day, before they got bought out by Trane, I saw General Electric ⚡️ units over 25 years old still running.
@@tomlewis632 - I guess I’m extremely lucky then
😂😂
⁰p