Well, for the most part, it's good for filling in holes and such, its not something I'd trust for actual mechanical loads. But in cases like this, it sure saves you from a major headache :)
Nicely done! I've never see a speed cup repaired Driving out the primary & secondary worm shafts can break the case if the detents are not relieved first.
Nicely done! It's always a great feeling to resurrect old parts. Keep the videos coming! They're always informative and entertaining. Any plans for another long-distance drive this summer? - Craig
@@AstraWerke Oh, that's a shame. We need more Model A content! I'm trying to drive my '36 a lot more this year, but I also have to work on the '51 Crestliner I'm in the middle of resurrecting. (And talk about complicated! It feels like this thing has a thousand times more parts than an early V8.) It's all a balancing act.
immer wieder schön zu sehen deine fingerfertigkeit und wie sauber du arbeitest, wie lange hast du da für gebraucht? bei mir muss immer alles an einen tag zusammengeklatscht werden🙄so eine restauration oder wieder herstellung muss doch richtig teuer sein wenn man es für jemand anders macht. viele könnten das auch nicht und versuchen bestimmt bessere ersatzeile zu bekommen, aber vieles von solchen teilen wird es wohl auch nicht mehr geben...👏😉👍👍👍
Dankeschön. Wenn ich davon leben müsste, wären solche Reparaturen unbezahlbar - das ist ja eine Arbeit von mehreren Tagen, die da rein fließt. Aber ich mach das ja auch, weil mich das Probieren alleine schon reizt. Ersatzteile für einen Tacho zu kriegen ist so ziemlich unmöglich. Mit viel Glück auf einem Flohmarkt in Amerika vielleicht.
More great texchnical Model "A" Ford repair and rebuilding. Did not know that you could "scrach" soilder aluminum. I wouild have sent you my spedo if the shipping and declarations were no so difficult. 31-45B
Yes, but that's easy. Just install that shaft and dial in the body with nothing else in there, so it's free to pivot. Hold the body with the shaft horizontal and let the heavy side fall to the bottom. Mark the top. Add a bit of solder to the side you marked. Check the balance again. If the marked side is now the heavy side, grind a bit of that solder away. Repeat until it's balanced. This actually only takes a minute or two. Once it becomes hard to detect a "heavy" side, you're done. BTW, there are special fluxes that make soldering to alum fairly easy. The amount of solder you need will depend on how far from the shaft you add it. You'll need less and less as you move out from the shaft. Note that you don't have to use solder. You could use epoxy if you could be SURE it would stay in place. Most epoxies are hard and brittle, so they tend to flake off of things that expand or contract with temp changes like alum. However, there are flexible epoxies that will work nicely, as long as you clean and roughen up the surface to insure a good grip. This might be a good application for one of those epoxy putties. That would make it easy to adjust the amount until you get good balance.
Seeing you work on this speedo, reminded me of the guy who rebuilt my speedo.
Eddy's Speedometer
in Texas USA
Always great watching your content with great music to match 👌
Adrian, you are very skilled and can do just about anything with a lathe. I really enjoy your videos. Keep ‘em coming. Do you do any ham radio?
Thank you! I'm afraid no - the only ham I have is what I eat for breakfast ;P
Nice little puzzle job.
And I didn't know it was possible to solder aluminium. Or maybe I just forgot :)
Well, for the most part, it's good for filling in holes and such, its not something I'd trust for actual mechanical loads. But in cases like this, it sure saves you from a major headache :)
...soldering aluminum IS possible- but it requires soldering flux...(!)
Muy bueno!! Siempre es un placer ver tus trabajos!!! Sos un ejemplo de prolijidad en todos tus proyectos! Saludos desde Argentina
Very thorough. Thanks.
Nicely done! I've never see a speed cup repaired
Driving out the primary & secondary worm shafts can break the case if the detents are not relieved first.
Yep, I should have paid attention to that
Nicely done! It's always a great feeling to resurrect old parts.
Keep the videos coming! They're always informative and entertaining. Any plans for another long-distance drive this summer?
- Craig
Thanks!
Let's put it this way, I hope to be able to drive this summer at all...
@@AstraWerke Oh, that's a shame. We need more Model A content!
I'm trying to drive my '36 a lot more this year, but I also have to work on the '51 Crestliner I'm in the middle of resurrecting. (And talk about complicated! It feels like this thing has a thousand times more parts than an early V8.) It's all a balancing act.
@@AutoEsoterica Well, if you have your camera handy, I'd love to see more of your 36, too! :)
GREAT VIDS with GREAT TUNES!!! CHEERS FRM HERE!!!
...nicely done..."!!!
immer wieder schön zu sehen deine fingerfertigkeit und wie sauber du arbeitest, wie lange hast du da für gebraucht? bei mir muss immer alles an einen tag zusammengeklatscht werden🙄so eine restauration oder wieder herstellung muss doch richtig teuer sein wenn man es für jemand anders macht. viele könnten das auch nicht und versuchen bestimmt bessere ersatzeile zu bekommen, aber vieles von solchen teilen wird es wohl auch nicht mehr geben...👏😉👍👍👍
Dankeschön. Wenn ich davon leben müsste, wären solche Reparaturen unbezahlbar - das ist ja eine Arbeit von mehreren Tagen, die da rein fließt.
Aber ich mach das ja auch, weil mich das Probieren alleine schon reizt.
Ersatzteile für einen Tacho zu kriegen ist so ziemlich unmöglich. Mit viel Glück auf einem Flohmarkt in Amerika vielleicht.
More great texchnical Model "A" Ford repair and rebuilding. Did not know that you could "scrach" soilder aluminum. I wouild have sent you my spedo if the shipping and declarations were no so difficult. 31-45B
it's easy to rebalance the dial by adding extra solder to the far side before you assemble everything. Makes for a much better job.
Well, when you say "easy"... It just takes the right amount in the right place, right? ;)
Yes, but that's easy.
Just install that shaft and dial in the body with nothing else in there, so it's free to pivot. Hold the body with the shaft horizontal and let the heavy side fall to the bottom. Mark the top. Add a bit of solder to the side you marked. Check the balance again. If the marked side is now the heavy side, grind a bit of that solder away. Repeat until it's balanced. This actually only takes a minute or two. Once it becomes hard to detect a "heavy" side, you're done.
BTW, there are special fluxes that make soldering to alum fairly easy.
The amount of solder you need will depend on how far from the shaft you add it. You'll need less and less as you move out from the shaft.
Note that you don't have to use solder. You could use epoxy if you could be SURE it would stay in place. Most epoxies are hard and brittle, so they tend to flake off of things that expand or contract with temp changes like alum. However, there are flexible epoxies that will work nicely, as long as you clean and roughen up the surface to insure a good grip. This might be a good application for one of those epoxy putties. That would make it easy to adjust the amount until you get good balance.
Always love watching your work. Any idea on how long your model A will be down?
Nope..
Interessantes Video!
I was amazed that you were able to replace the dial number tape. Was that something you made, or is someone else making replacements?
8:14...SWAGED...(?)
...the word SPEEDO has more than 1 meaning...