1) I have a long land and didn't relocate or reduce the brood area. Can you talk about hive management for the long lang hive? 5:28 2) Since you've started using double bubble insulation, have you changed the way you build your insulated covers using the BeeSmart Designs insulated Inner Cover? 18:16 3) Three out of my four hives are still alive and doing well. I keep hearing that I need to rotate my boxes in March to keep them from swarming. I am thinking of leaving them as is and monitoring them closely. What are your thoughts? 26:01 4) Is eco-wood still holding up for you? Also, will the bees still propolize interior surfaces if treated with Eco-Wood. 43:08 5) I have headless bees outside my hive! They appear to be dry, and only a shell of a bee. Is this the work of a shrew? Your thoughts? 48:25 6) I'm trying to learn more about trees in my area. Is there something you would recommend as a "must read"? 58:06 7) Here in Ireland there is a majority of bee keepers that are strictly AMM Black Bees "Native". What are your views on Ireland banning non native bees to stop genetic mixing? 1:00:02
Mr. Dunn ... you spoke of not opening a hive early because you think it is dead but maybe is just a small cluster. I had that very same thing happen to me last year. It was my first winter and thankfully I left it alone. It ended up being an amazing hive throughout the year and seems to be coming through this current winter splendidly! Thank you for all that you do for the beekeeping community and the patience you show us newbees!
That’s because Mr. Dunn is an exemplary human all around, the passion he has for learning, documentation, education to share with others is quite evident and needs recognition with the way the human race is evolving towards the great dissolve of critical thinking and selfishness, i think he should get the Pulitzer Prize just for typing his last sentence 😜 I know it would be much easier to say , Fred , we love you and respect you, appreciate you to the moon and back but i was just thinking the compliment needed to be a little more complex , we love ya Fred 😋
I encapsulate rapid round feeder in the insulated feeder box to create an extension of the main hive so the bees can move in and out of the feeder area at will. That allows even liquid feeds on warmer days without fear of drip down with quick temp changes. The bees take to it quickly when food is provided. They even come up for the pollen patties as well. I got those ideas from u so keep sharing.
I think of our feral bee colonies here in the America's as heirloom bees. They may not be native but they have been reseeding for generations and have come back better each year.
Great answer on question #3! I do exactly the same as you Frederick, the bees naturally store honey in the top and brood below. I will say you actually help the colonies to grow faster and better that way.👌🏻😃
I had three of my Layens hives last winter that I thought for sure were dead, but come springtime, they surprised me. Not sure, but I guess I just couldn't hear them buzzing through the thicker 2X material. I was sure glad that I didn't open them up in the cold weather!
Thanks for the video, I always like to see your take on things. Hoping for a smooth transition from winter to spring then summer, my area of SW Missouri seems to lean more toward extremes. I think that's why I like the idea of insulated hives, just to buffer those. This was my favorite hour and a half of the day, I always take something away from your videos!
If you have a local screen printing shop. (And they are kind) you can ask them to press a patch on a cap for you. Better yet, buy the cap from them. Most have a special heat press used to press patches on a cap. Takes 30 secs and the patch is never coming off. Their press is much hotter than an iron and applies pressure evenly across the patch. Thanks Fred for another great Q&A.
Thnx Fred...Happy Friday! That was a packed hour and a half....may have to pull it up and listen again. Here in the PNW the bees are getting restless and gearing up. Can hear my hive roaring from about 4 feet away ...in an Apimaye yet!
A fascinating and beautiful opening to your video… “standard” 😂 video … I have windows window on my 8 frame deep brood box (the longer side) which I’m going to put a drone frame as the bees otherwise cover the window with their own drone frame. Assuming the bees raise drones on the window facing side of the frame, perhaps there is something to be learned from observing a drone frame. Thanks 😊
In my observation hives, they tend to produce drones along the edges and between frames in the verticle gaps. I've never put an actual drone foundation in an observation hive. I think, for educational purposes, it's fun to let the bees make those cells and let students discover them. The green drone foundation would make it all too easy :)
Thanks for the flowering info. I planted 3 Lindens last year. They were about 3' tall. I have native Lindens here and I plan to raise some from their seed to reforest as needed.
I’ve been using ECO Wood for two plus years. No issues with rot. As Fred stated the wood can cup. Cupping can be mitigated by orienting the wood grain correctly. It is easy to judge cupping by observing the grain pattern on the cut end. Then construct the box with so that the board remains in contact with the mating board top and bottom and cup out instead of cup in. I also construct my rough cut boxes with splined mitre joints so there is no end grain exposed.
Vert interested to hear how your Long Lang and Layens hives do as we come into spring as those are my preferred configurations but I have yet to have a colony make it through winter. Entering my third year, hoping for more swarm catches this year. Thanks again for your great content, Fred!
Hi Fred… just thinking… The blue solid blow molded feeder you have could easily be retooled to put the outlet for the bees in a corner of the feeder shim… cheers, John
Good video Frederick. I like the follow up on Eco Wood. Still going with the your previous recommendation of Valspar Varnish for Flow Hive Ceder and Latex Semi-Gloss house paint for pine. Thank you for giving me your feedback last week. I'm going with installing two Nucs of Saskatraz into two hives. BeeWeaver requeening will be done if they develop high mite counts.
Lightbulb moment! Thanks for the crystalized honey feed tip. I have 2 1/2” feeder shims similar to your design. A small 4 or 8 oz jar will fit nicely. I use hivealive foundant but my Amish mentee doesn’t. Thanks for providing this forum!
Yes, Mug up! Thank you Fred for what I am about to learn🤓...Good morning Fred, coffee in my mug this morning, unlike the stout last night. So, I'm watching this again!! I was observing my mix of insulated and uninsulated hives and I saw just what you have said, the insulated hives are slower to react to the warm days. I had a high of 50 F this past week, 41 F yesterday, 14 F w/ 10-20 MPH winds this morning. There will be no flying today...Sapwood shrinks more than heartwood, sometime you can work that to your advantage. Have a great week!
Our plants and things are going crazy in the uk 🇬🇧 had 14c yesterday and same today and could hit 15/16c Monday , crazy temps but the bees are happy , fabulous episode as always Fred have a great weekend 😀
I agree and I have no upper Vince I had a feed jer left top of the box and the bees starting going out around it and they done that the whole late spring and all through winter . So basically I flipped have over three boxes I did not see a bee come out the box today move the jar and they come out so I put it back today they going to have to learn to come out the
Your comments about the mites being removed by the bees moving up into the hive reminds me of the adaptations the Japanese bees made in handling the large Asian hornets. It would be great if the bees did adapt and self eliminated the Varroa mites.
Those bees are surrounding scouts physically and generating the heat to kill them. In my scenario, the bees are just rising into the upper unvented areas where the combination of temp and lack of oxygen as well as increased humidity all converge and make a micro climate that is un-suited to mite reproduction.
I glue first, you really need to stabilize your wood prior to eco-wood treatment. It's like putting it in water, if not assembled, the planks can warp.
Hello Mr. Dunn! Thank you for all your informative videos! I would never have started backyard bee keeping without the invaluable knowledge you share so generously. I wonder what you think of the idea of housing two colonies of bees in a long langstroth hive. I will be splitting my current two hives this April when my replacement BeeWeaver queens arrive, creating a third colony in the long langstroth hive we had built from your plans. My mentor suggested adding another entrance in case I might want to house a second colony sometime in the future. Of course, I would love your thoughts regarding pros and cons . Thank you!
I think you'd be way ahead to just have another Long Langstroth hive. Some do have multiple colonies in the same hive, but they quicly outgrow that situation which means you'd be needing another colony very soon. Or, you could construct an extra long horizontal hive so they had a common partition. It's not something I've experimented with. For my needs, it's just not large enough.
Hi all I was just watching a video on OA and I just thought I don’t think I’ve seen anyone do OA On a observation hive to show how it moves around the hive How about it Fred it would make a good video Thanks Ivan 🇬🇧
I’d think a Rapid Round feeder would be safe from expansion in colder weather on question #2. Speaking of honeybee trees I’m planting 60 trees right now. Planted 20 yesterday and more today. 10 of those I planted yesterday were Tupelo trees. Those are the ones I really wanted. Also planted Chinese Chestnuts you spoke of. Growing those from seed myself. I didn’t get Linden trees because I’ll probably be dead by the time they produce enough blooms to make an impact, I’m 60. I figured I’d plant something else in my limited space. Planting even more species next year.
Yes, rapid rounds are safe from expansion. But in winter, I recommend using them for solid feed, sugar, etc... syrup in a rapid round in cold weather can trap your bees unless you're taken precautions to remove any bee esposure to open surface areas. BUT, once it warms, syrup in a rapid round doesn't drip down onto the bees.
hi fred i been keeping bees for 4 years now .i put 4ft x 4ft sheet of sheet metal in frount of my hives and never had a skunk on it and i do have lots or them around my yard i put the metal there to see the bee drop . i think the skunks dont like it i think it to slipery for them
Just confirming you use expansion foam insulation above your BeeSmart insulated inner cover to attach the medium box to your insulated inner cover? If so, does the medium stay attached to the insulated inner cover all the time?
Hi Trish, yes, it's not what the company wants us to do, but I use great stuff expansion foam around the entire inerior circumference where the beesmart insulated inner cover meets the medium super/box. This eliminates any air flow, and prevents any chance of small insects gaining access. Turns the inner cover and the medium super into a single unit. A light spritzing of water before adding the expansion foam causes a tighter bond and faster curing. I hope that helps :)
@@FrederickDunn Hi Fred, yes that does help, that is what I was picturing. Do you leave the medium box attached to the inner cover during the summer as well with the insulated top cover above that?
Hi Fred, Loved the Q&A. your fluff section sparked a question. i am currently supplementing my hives with Hive Alive Fondant. The bees love it. Would you still put out an open feeding station with pollen?
When the days warm up and the foragers are flying, yes I'd put out pollen substitute just for a tiny start. Oustide the hive at a feeding station it really just gives those early foragers something to bring home. Here, that's a very short window of opportunity. I just don't want them to turn on each other.
Hi Fred , I was working on my hives in the aviary this week and of course just getting back into beekeeping last year after a 25 year break things are a lot different, langstroth boxes are about the only thing that’s the same as far as hive bodies go , being a wood worker by trade I built 5 flow hives and saved about 4-5k building them myself , I think $1200 total for cedar , fasteners and flow frames , I didn’t put bees in the flow hives last year because I didn’t finish building them until august, however, the main reason I’m commenting is that although I didn’t use the hives I left them set up to see how they weathered, already I’m super glad I didn’t put bees in because I see some design things I want to change , like the pitched roof covers , they look nice but in a southern Maryland climate on a farm that is open and windy I’m going to change the roof design back to a telescopic cover and I’m going to insulate with the Mylar coated bubble wrap style , I use that stuff in my profession for a lot of different things and this seems like the perfect time to insulate some sturdy telescopic covers . I have a question about the acorn plastic foundation frames , I put about 4 in each deep brood box and I just put 2 better bee drawn frames into each brood box and some Mann lake to finish out , I did leave the acorn frames in over the winter and I noticed they shrink in the winter around the circumference about 3/16” of an inch , I know that plastic expands and contracts at different rates than wood and I noticed I have to be careful manipulating them in the brood box so they don’t fall in , do you have this issue with the acorn plastic? And do the bees use the different types of frames equally with plastic foundation whether it’s wood or plastic frame ? And do you prefer the wood framed foundation over all plastic? Thanks again for all you do , p.s. we had 400 colonies years ago and I will honestly say I do not miss stringing wire into open frames lol 🤣
Ok, that's a huge amount of temperature based shrinkage, I haven't had them do what you're describing. Sounds like a great physics project for some high schoolers :) We know plastics and vinyl shrink, for example the siding on houses is not nailed on "tight" and allows for expansion and contraction. How did you monitor that 3/16"? Lately I do like the look and feel of wooden frames with the heavy waxed inserts, but they actually have fewer cells available to the bees than one piece plastic foundation/frames have. Not a big deal for me. There are discussions about the plastic being able to be cleaned as it's not porous. Wood has open grain that can be loaded with contaminants. I'll add that to personal preference :) I wonder why you wouldn't just use your insulation insert material in the gabled hive tops? That's on my to-do list this year. A winter-ready flow hive. I have shelves of their gabled covers as I substituted for them with Beemax covers.
@@FrederickDunn considering most folks that use the acorn frames most likely put them in their hives and the bees do their thing and load them up for the season and going into winter they are covered in brood and honey/pollen and the climate is better controlled with 50,000 bees fanning and keeping the brood warm, I would bet anything that because the have frames in the hives all winter with no climate control that the plastic has contracted because of the cold , 3/16 sounds like a lot but that’s calculated from all sides , I imagine that where the frames sit at the hive it’s about 40,000ths of an inch on each side that is contracted and that’s normal considering the frames are made out of the same poly type plastic as azek exterior trim products that I have used for years and they shrink in the winter about 1/4” from the outside edges , I marked the position for winter so when summer comes I will keep the acorn hive as a test hive to let you know what the exact shrinkage is when not climate controlled with bees , I will keep you posted on this project , and the hives that will be full I will track as well for the climate controlled frames 😀
I know that you are busy, but if you have the time, I have a question. Do you use a single deep brood box and a medium super, that you maintain as your winter configuration or year round brood nest?
Hey Fred. Thanks for another great video. Last fall when I harvested honey I ended up with an extra super of honey that I wasn’t ready to harvest. I put the entire super in my deep freezer and It has been in there all winter long. Do you feel that It would still be just as good to harvest to sell/consume as It was last year? If so how would u recommend thawing to make sure that condensation doesn’t penetrate the capping and raise the moisture content of the honey? Thanks in advance, David Shrewsberry
Hi David, I need to make a short video about this. I put those supers on a rolling cart in my basement, and that is in a tent - 60 x 60 x 80 with plenty of room to work inside. VIVOSUN is the brand name. Inside that tent, I place a dehumidifier, and 4 lb size damp-rid buckets (they last years). The Vivosun room allows me to raise the temp in a controlled way (100-105 deg. f). The dehumidifier has a blower that keeps the air moving and that unit actually heats the space in the process as well, but it only gets to circa 87 deg. f without an additional heater. This space works for re-warming honey in the frames, as well as drying any honey that came in too wet. That Vivosun room is under $200, the damp rid is $10/bucket, the dehumidifier may not be necessary if you run fans and an electric hearter instead. At 100 degrees, those frames of capped honey are ready for processing and will be excellent. I hope that helps. I do not recommend using anything such as a propane heater to warm that space, always go with electric as you'll have better control.
Hello Mr. Dunn, I plan to add 2nd 10 frame box under the brood box in early spring to expand the brood. Can you please tell me when it's the best time( maybe after they have 5or6 brood frames upstairs)?🤔
I hope you know that I don't recommend that. BUT, you'd want to do it before they naturally descend, and once it's warm enough that you would not be exposing and chilling the early brood before their numbers are large enough to keep that separated brood warm.
YES! It is too early to report losses. I had made a mistake with my best hive in early December. Day temps were still above 70 degrees f, and I had a liquid feeder with Pro Sweet, as well as the fondant inside the hives. I happened to move the small liquid feeder right on top of the insulation on top of my best hive. When the feeder ran out, I could not figure out why the bees started going in and out of this small slit on the back of the hive; right above the inset handle. It was an old hive that I got somewhere last century and was still using it. But here the bees were using this small slit as their entrance/exit, and none were coming and going on the landing board. With the freeze of the following week, I realized that the single hive gate had become plugged by the dripping Pro Sweet and there was no way for the bees to exit! Quickly, I drilled a 3/4 inch hole in the "slit" and tried to clean out the hive gate. But I was convinced that it was too little too late. Last week, the temperature was in the high 60's f and I decided to break down the hive and put frames into the freezer so that wax moths and robbing would not occur. Amazingly, when I opened the lid, there were lots of bees eating the fondant, working the honey super, etc. I didn't investigate further, but quickly replaced the lid and bag of cedar compost "insulation". So far, no winter losses in my backyard apiary. :D
Thank you for sharing that experience. Heavy syrup can do bad things for sure, depending on the time of year. You've explained it very well here. I'm glad they are still making it.
My mom passed away last year and I hate to say it I did not work my bees the last three months of the year until then the first time yesterday I honestly thought more was dead but so far did not lose but 3 . 2 acid treatment in 2021. None in 2022 and just one the first week of this year. And when I went through them I haven't seen the first mite all the drone was clear and I had flying drones and I found the first Queen cell I just cut it out it was packed it had eggs all the way to brood
@@wadebarnes6720 sorry for your loss , I missed the start of bee season too and only had a few feral colonies and it was too late to start bees in august because I lost my mom at Easter I know exactly what you mean about being lost without her , there’s so much more I want to say to her but I too am learning how to get by now without being able to talk to her . Again I’m sorry for your loss too 😢
I don't recommend liquid feeders in winter, no matter what the design is. If you're using dry feed such as sugar, then the rapid round is still a good system for that. And in spring or summer etc.. when you're starting a package or getting a swarm going, the Rapid Round will not leak down into your hive.
I disagree about not taking deadouts apart as soon as you are confident they are dead. Is it not true that honey, particularly late season honey is more prone to crystallization and that freezing the comb will help prevent crystallization therefore making it easier to extract or feed back.
You are always welcome do disagree. If people are confident that they are indeed dead, you can do whatever you'd like to with those. Some backyard keepers have jumped the gun and dumped clusters of live bees out, not understanding that they were in torpor. Golden Rod and Aster honey would likely already be crystalized, but that is easily reliquified by placing an entire frame, or even the super in a warmer and take it to 105 deg. F. the honey in the cells will reliquify and you can still harvest it.
How do you get out the dead bees in your long lang? Just let the bees bring them out? I can't believe the bees would like your Shark vac while they are in the Hive.
The bees remove them, but if I'm doing an inspection and removing frames, I vac them out. Once things get going, they are very good at clearing the bottom.
Hi Fred, do you have a "The Way to Bee" sticker? (like your round logo), I'd like a sticker to put on my Bee Freezer. I want to order a patch, but don't see it on Spring. Thanks for your inspiration and all you do.
Teespring doesn't offer patches, so those are on my website: www.fredsfinefowl.com/thewaytobee.html There are stickers on Teespring, if there is one in particular you'd like, just let me know and I'll make sure that design is available. Thanks for asking!
@@FrederickDunn Thanks, the sticker I was looking for was one just like your Iron-On Patch. Just wanted to put it on my "Bee Freezer". I just ordered the patch.
Have you gotten one of those new inner feeders yet, was it Apimaye or Bee Smart? Those new inner feeders I saw really interested me and I don't like many of plastic products. To much back and forth heat changes will pump that tank dry, I wouldn't to use that kind of tank feeder in the Winter. Your drawing gave me some ideas for helping deal with humidity/wet here in WA. Where I live we get a lot of Pacific storms traveling up the Columbia river, so our Winters are real wet. How much affect do you think the slatted rack has on humidity control? I wish people would understand ECO-Wood is a treatment not a sealant. You can add a water based pigment to ECO-Wood and change the color it stains, that's what they use. Ty Fred for a great Q & A have a wonderful day.
I don't think slatted racks aid in humidity control or mitigation. They can distance your cluster from bottom board moisture if it's collecting there, but if your hive is tilted toward the landing board that also shouldn't be much of an issue unless there are piles of wet/dead bees also down below.
If you have a warm day, nothing wrong with that at all. But, here where I am once those temps rise enough, the bees are finding new nectar on their own. If you have a dearth and they aren't bringing in enough when temps rise, then sounds like a great insurance policy :)
I do have a question if I had a have that had might that you can see in the brood I would not let them raise drones only the one that had very little to none and I looked hard I went through my bees because they had drone in between the the frames and I've seen no varroa mite how many rotations do you need to do that way you can say your bee's are mit resistant
If you're talking about how many generations you need to have a line that breeds true, I would highly suggest that you post that question to those who are truly breeding queens. That's not within my grasp with so few colonies here. The benchmark tends to be more than 100 breeder colonies and drone yards as well as finishing yards.
@@FrederickDunn I have been doing them 6 to 5 years and go back and see but I check drone brood this year and I have seen no mites in them even caught some of the flying ones not seeing nothing on them. I have tried to get in touch with them imagine my name is not big enough to be recognized. lol
got a weird security threat message when I tried to use your website to submit this question so ill also post it here. sorry if you get 2-3 messages from me of the same question. anywho, what are the negatives associated with permanently caging the queen (aside from the obvious effects of not doing mating flights/ swarms) and will the colony suffer because of it? Any and all info you have on the topic that I may not be asking/assuming is appreciated. this question is because I saw a full frame cage on better bee. PS- love the beach towel with your bee photo on it.. I find myself grinning every time I use it.
The new cage at BetterBee is excellent... but it's still intended to temporarily house the queen while a brood break is made. The queen could lay up an entire deep frame in one week, that means she would then be off-production until they emerge, then her cycle would repeat. The result would also be a much smaller population in that hive, hovering around the minimum of 5,000 workers. And you run the risk of supercedure as the workers may consider that she isn't as productive as they need her to be. Supercedure doesn't always end in the queen departing, at times they may just kill her once they have replacements well on their way. Orrrr, they could obscond. Orrrr... I'm just guessing as I've never put a queen/colony through that kind of restriction. If you do it, please keep us posted!
i lost 4 of 7 ......... they survived the first cold snap that went to -23F ....... they didnt survive the second.......... Last year i didnt loose any.
So, what is the difference between Ultra-Bee and Bee-Pro? I purchased a small pail of Bee-Pro, being cheaper, when I started working with bees, I have never seen my bees go after the dry Bee-Pro like I see on videos with Ultra-Bee. BTW when my daughter received her PhD in chemistry, she worked for a scientific journal that published papers from Chemistry folks, she would review/edit the paper in her field, theriacal chemistry and others would edit/review the paper from their field of chemistry, the author would make corrections or the paper would be totally debunked, the paper then would/would not be published. The only thing I learned in HS chemistry was how to make moon shine, I'm from the South.
The Pollen Subs have been frequently tested and reviewed. Ultra-Bee has always been near the top if not at the top of the tests. AP23 has also demonstrated excellent results. Bee-Pro is something you'd have to also check up on before spending your hard earned $$. Randy Oliver at ScientificBeekeeping has done extensive field tests, and would be a great resource.
Joe here , feeding 101 mason jar sugar H2O…Charles’s Law. V=KT . Jacques Charles in late 1700s. V1 over T1 = V2 over T2 . Charles’ s Law states that the volume of a given mass of gas varies directly with the absolute temperature of the gas when pressure is kept constant. The absolute temperature is temperature measured with the Kelvin scale. Boule’s law tells us that the volume of gas increases as the pressure decreases. Charles’s law tells us that the volume of gas increases as temperature increases. And Avogadro’s law tells us that the volume of gas increases as the amount as gas increases. Bee keeping 101 ,,,Fred started it ,not me. Please check all spellings and date . Be Safe joe
1) I have a long land and didn't relocate or reduce the brood area. Can you talk about hive management for the long lang hive? 5:28
2) Since you've started using double bubble insulation, have you changed the way you build your insulated covers using the BeeSmart Designs insulated Inner Cover? 18:16
3) Three out of my four hives are still alive and doing well. I keep hearing that I need to rotate my boxes in March to keep them from swarming. I am thinking of leaving them as is and monitoring them closely. What are your thoughts? 26:01
4) Is eco-wood still holding up for you? Also, will the bees still propolize interior surfaces if treated with Eco-Wood. 43:08
5) I have headless bees outside my hive! They appear to be dry, and only a shell of a bee. Is this the work of a shrew? Your thoughts? 48:25
6) I'm trying to learn more about trees in my area. Is there something you would recommend as a "must read"? 58:06
7) Here in Ireland there is a majority of bee keepers that are strictly AMM Black Bees "Native". What are your views on Ireland banning non native bees to stop genetic mixing? 1:00:02
Mr. Dunn ... you spoke of not opening a hive early because you think it is dead but maybe is just a small cluster. I had that very same thing happen to me last year. It was my first winter and thankfully I left it alone. It ended up being an amazing hive throughout the year and seems to be coming through this current winter splendidly! Thank you for all that you do for the beekeeping community and the patience you show us newbees!
I'm glad you were able to see that tiny cluster survive and make it :) Thanks for sharing!
That’s because Mr. Dunn is an exemplary human all around, the passion he has for learning, documentation, education to share with others is quite evident and needs recognition with the way the human race is evolving towards the great dissolve of critical thinking and selfishness, i think he should get the Pulitzer Prize just for typing his last sentence 😜 I know it would be much easier to say , Fred , we love you and respect you, appreciate you to the moon and back but i was just thinking the compliment needed to be a little more complex , we love ya Fred 😋
Thank you for answering my question.My bees have got no flight days yet only a few got cleansing flights.I am on tug hill plateau in NY.
I encapsulate rapid round feeder in the insulated feeder box to create an extension of the main hive so the bees can move in and out of the feeder area at will. That allows even liquid feeds on warmer days without fear of drip down with quick temp changes. The bees take to it quickly when food is provided. They even come up for the pollen patties as well. I got those ideas from u so keep sharing.
Thanks for taking your valuable time to put out another great video with content we all need.
Thank you for taking the time to watch :)
I think of our feral bee colonies here in the America's as heirloom bees. They may not be native but they have been reseeding for generations and have come back better each year.
Great answer on question #3! I do exactly the same as you Frederick, the bees naturally store honey in the top and brood below. I will say you actually help the colonies to grow faster and better that way.👌🏻😃
Thank you :)
I had three of my Layens hives last winter that I thought for sure were dead, but come springtime, they surprised me. Not sure, but I guess I just couldn't hear them buzzing through the thicker 2X material. I was sure glad that I didn't open them up in the cold weather!
A great lesson... leave them until the warmup before assessing the situation. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks Fred, your content was awesome as always, have a great weekend!
Thank you! and the same to you!
I am 7 for 7 this year, so far. I see one more blast of winter coming up for us. I even gained a mouse, although I evicted it last weekend.
Thanks for the video, I always like to see your take on things. Hoping for a smooth transition from winter to spring then summer, my area of SW Missouri seems to lean more toward extremes. I think that's why I like the idea of insulated hives, just to buffer those. This was my favorite hour and a half of the day, I always take something away from your videos!
Yes, definitely make necessary tweaks that suit your specific environment :)
If you have a local screen printing shop. (And they are kind) you can ask them to press a patch on a cap for you. Better yet, buy the cap from them. Most have a special heat press used to press patches on a cap. Takes 30 secs and the patch is never coming off. Their press is much hotter than an iron and applies pressure evenly across the patch. Thanks Fred for another great Q&A.
Oh! What a great suggestion! I wonder what one of those presses goes for? Thank you!
Thnx Fred...Happy Friday! That was a packed hour and a half....may have to pull it up and listen again. Here in the PNW the bees are getting restless and gearing up. Can hear my hive roaring from about 4 feet away ...in an Apimaye yet!
on my second go as well
Sorry it was a long one! At least it's not spring yet so we don't feel like we're missing out on time with the bees :)
@@FrederickDunnlive the long Friday videos.
Great Q&A. I live hoodies that's a great idea to put pockets on them. Appreciate your time Fred
Any time!
A fascinating and beautiful opening to your video… “standard” 😂 video … I have windows window on my 8 frame deep brood box (the longer side) which I’m going to put a drone frame as the bees otherwise cover the window with their own drone frame. Assuming the bees raise drones on the window facing side of the frame, perhaps there is something to be learned from observing a drone frame. Thanks 😊
In my observation hives, they tend to produce drones along the edges and between frames in the verticle gaps. I've never put an actual drone foundation in an observation hive. I think, for educational purposes, it's fun to let the bees make those cells and let students discover them. The green drone foundation would make it all too easy :)
as always thanks for sharing your wisdom and experience with us
You're welcome, and thank you for watching!
The skunk cabbage bloomed really early this year. Another plant high in oxalic acid.
My lindens were about 10 foot tall when I planted them. They bloomed first two years in June/July. They didn't bloom last year do to late May frost.
Thanks for the flowering info. I planted 3 Lindens last year. They were about 3' tall. I have native Lindens here and I plan to raise some from their seed to reforest as needed.
I’ve been using ECO Wood for two plus years. No issues with rot. As Fred stated the wood can cup. Cupping can be mitigated by orienting the wood grain correctly. It is easy to judge cupping by observing the grain pattern on the cut end. Then construct the box with so that the board remains in contact with the mating board top and bottom and cup out instead of cup in. I also construct my rough cut boxes with splined mitre joints so there is no end grain exposed.
thanks ,have a great weekend,
You too!
I’ve already been doing ultra bee pollen sub in se pa for a few weeks and they are absolutely crushing it.
Good morning Dear Frederick Dunn 🥰🥰🥰🥰
Good morning, Enrico!
@@FrederickDunn Good Morning too Dear Frederick 🥰🥰🥰🥰
Vert interested to hear how your Long Lang and Layens hives do as we come into spring as those are my preferred configurations but I have yet to have a colony make it through winter. Entering my third year, hoping for more swarm catches this year. Thanks again for your great content, Fred!
I hope spring will being good news with your hives. I'm glad they are still kicking!
We use weevil hats at work, they hold up well
Interesting.
Thank you Fred!
You're welcome, Robin!
Hi Fred… just thinking…
The blue solid blow molded feeder you have could easily be retooled to put the outlet for the bees in a corner of the feeder shim… cheers, John
That isn't something the inventor wants to hear :) But you're right.
Good video Frederick. I like the follow up on Eco Wood. Still going with the your previous recommendation of Valspar Varnish for Flow Hive Ceder and Latex Semi-Gloss house paint for pine. Thank you for giving me your feedback last week. I'm going with installing two Nucs of Saskatraz into two hives. BeeWeaver requeening will be done if they develop high mite counts.
Lightbulb moment! Thanks for the crystalized honey feed tip. I have 2 1/2” feeder shims similar to your design. A small 4 or 8 oz jar will fit nicely. I use hivealive foundant but my Amish mentee doesn’t. Thanks for providing this forum!
Glad it was helpful!
Yes, Mug up! Thank you Fred for what I am about to learn🤓...Good morning Fred, coffee in my mug this morning, unlike the stout last night. So, I'm watching this again!! I was observing my mix of insulated and uninsulated hives and I saw just what you have said, the insulated hives are slower to react to the warm days. I had a high of 50 F this past week, 41 F yesterday, 14 F w/ 10-20 MPH winds this morning. There will be no flying today...Sapwood shrinks more than heartwood, sometime you can work that to your advantage. Have a great week!
You are so welcome :)
Our plants and things are going crazy in the uk 🇬🇧 had 14c yesterday and same today and could hit 15/16c Monday , crazy temps but the bees are happy , fabulous episode as always Fred have a great weekend 😀
Thanks, I'm glad things are going well there! :)
Great job enjoy the The talk
Thank you :)
I agree and I have no upper Vince I had a feed jer left top of the box and the bees starting going out around it and they done that the whole late spring and all through winter . So basically I flipped have over three boxes I did not see a bee come out the box today move the jar and they come out so I put it back today they going to have to learn to come out the
Your Buddy David Burns sells an inner cover with 3 screened feeder holes.. one is toward the back.
Sounds good.
Your comments about the mites being removed by the bees moving up into the hive reminds me of the adaptations the Japanese bees made in handling the large Asian hornets. It would be great if the bees did adapt and self eliminated the Varroa mites.
Those bees are surrounding scouts physically and generating the heat to kill them. In my scenario, the bees are just rising into the upper unvented areas where the combination of temp and lack of oxygen as well as increased humidity all converge and make a micro climate that is un-suited to mite reproduction.
Top das Califórnia gostei! Um inscrito um abraço likeado tmj sucesso
i insulated 1 hive only cuz i left 60-80lbs honey in a 3rd 10fr broodbox,help keep honey temp fluctual,,,so far so good
Question about the ECO wood- do you soak before or after the glue application? TIA
I glue first, you really need to stabilize your wood prior to eco-wood treatment. It's like putting it in water, if not assembled, the planks can warp.
Hello Mr. Dunn! Thank you for all your informative videos! I would never have started backyard bee keeping without the invaluable knowledge you share so generously. I wonder what you think of the idea of housing two colonies of bees in a long langstroth hive. I will be splitting my current two hives this April when my replacement BeeWeaver queens arrive, creating a third colony in the long langstroth hive we had built from your plans. My mentor suggested adding another entrance in case I might want to house a second colony sometime in the future. Of course, I would love your thoughts regarding pros and cons . Thank you!
I think you'd be way ahead to just have another Long Langstroth hive. Some do have multiple colonies in the same hive, but they quicly outgrow that situation which means you'd be needing another colony very soon. Or, you could construct an extra long horizontal hive so they had a common partition. It's not something I've experimented with. For my needs, it's just not large enough.
@@FrederickDunn Thank you so much for your reply!
Hi all
I was just watching a video on OA and I just thought I don’t think I’ve seen anyone do OA
On a observation hive to show how it moves around the hive
How about it Fred it would make a good video
Thanks Ivan 🇬🇧
I am way ahead of you on that one :) I did that years ago and here it is: ruclips.net/video/LBtyeXf6fjc/видео.html
I’d think a Rapid Round feeder would be safe from expansion in colder weather on question #2. Speaking of honeybee trees I’m planting 60 trees right now. Planted 20 yesterday and more today. 10 of those I planted yesterday were Tupelo trees. Those are the ones I really wanted. Also planted Chinese Chestnuts you spoke of. Growing those from seed myself. I didn’t get Linden trees because I’ll probably be dead by the time they produce enough blooms to make an impact, I’m 60. I figured I’d plant something else in my limited space. Planting even more species next year.
Yes, rapid rounds are safe from expansion. But in winter, I recommend using them for solid feed, sugar, etc... syrup in a rapid round in cold weather can trap your bees unless you're taken precautions to remove any bee esposure to open surface areas. BUT, once it warms, syrup in a rapid round doesn't drip down onto the bees.
@@FrederickDunn It’s warm enough here in Texas that I open feed syrup. They can usually get out and feed about half of the days of the week.
If the theory of heat up top to have mites released and fall down, would they reattach to lower bees and brood?
They absolutely could do that, the key benefit in my opinion would be the reduction in their reproduction not so much as a kill method.
hi fred i been keeping bees for 4 years now .i put 4ft x 4ft sheet of sheet metal in frount of my hives and never had a skunk on it and i do have lots or them around my yard i put the metal there to see the bee drop . i think the skunks dont like it i think it to slipery for them
Probably the maples on the nectar
Just confirming you use expansion foam insulation above your BeeSmart insulated inner cover to attach the medium box to your insulated inner cover? If so, does the medium stay attached to the insulated inner cover all the time?
Hi Trish, yes, it's not what the company wants us to do, but I use great stuff expansion foam around the entire inerior circumference where the beesmart insulated inner cover meets the medium super/box. This eliminates any air flow, and prevents any chance of small insects gaining access. Turns the inner cover and the medium super into a single unit. A light spritzing of water before adding the expansion foam causes a tighter bond and faster curing. I hope that helps :)
@@FrederickDunn Hi Fred, yes that does help, that is what I was picturing. Do you leave the medium box attached to the inner cover during the summer as well with the insulated top cover above that?
@@trishwestberg6982 Yes, that's my year round configuration :)
Hi Fred, Loved the Q&A. your fluff section sparked a question. i am currently supplementing my hives with Hive Alive Fondant. The bees love it. Would you still put out an open feeding station with pollen?
When the days warm up and the foragers are flying, yes I'd put out pollen substitute just for a tiny start. Oustide the hive at a feeding station it really just gives those early foragers something to bring home. Here, that's a very short window of opportunity. I just don't want them to turn on each other.
@@FrederickDunn Thanks Fred. Thanks also for showing the footage of the observation hive. I find it fascinating.
Do you leave the insulated inter cover on year round? Thanks Fred for all the great information! Carl
Yes, year round, the configuration remains the same. :)
Hi Fred , I was working on my hives in the aviary this week and of course just getting back into beekeeping last year after a 25 year break things are a lot different, langstroth boxes are about the only thing that’s the same as far as hive bodies go , being a wood worker by trade I built 5 flow hives and saved about 4-5k building them myself , I think $1200 total for cedar , fasteners and flow frames , I didn’t put bees in the flow hives last year because I didn’t finish building them until august, however, the main reason I’m commenting is that although I didn’t use the hives I left them set up to see how they weathered, already I’m super glad I didn’t put bees in because I see some design things I want to change , like the pitched roof covers , they look nice but in a southern Maryland climate on a farm that is open and windy I’m going to change the roof design back to a telescopic cover and I’m going to insulate with the Mylar coated bubble wrap style , I use that stuff in my profession for a lot of different things and this seems like the perfect time to insulate some sturdy telescopic covers . I have a question about the acorn plastic foundation frames , I put about 4 in each deep brood box and I just put 2 better bee drawn frames into each brood box and some Mann lake to finish out , I did leave the acorn frames in over the winter and I noticed they shrink in the winter around the circumference about 3/16” of an inch , I know that plastic expands and contracts at different rates than wood and I noticed I have to be careful manipulating them in the brood box so they don’t fall in , do you have this issue with the acorn plastic? And do the bees use the different types of frames equally with plastic foundation whether it’s wood or plastic frame ? And do you prefer the wood framed foundation over all plastic? Thanks again for all you do , p.s. we had 400 colonies years ago and I will honestly say I do not miss stringing wire into open frames lol 🤣
Ok, that's a huge amount of temperature based shrinkage, I haven't had them do what you're describing. Sounds like a great physics project for some high schoolers :) We know plastics and vinyl shrink, for example the siding on houses is not nailed on "tight" and allows for expansion and contraction. How did you monitor that 3/16"? Lately I do like the look and feel of wooden frames with the heavy waxed inserts, but they actually have fewer cells available to the bees than one piece plastic foundation/frames have. Not a big deal for me. There are discussions about the plastic being able to be cleaned as it's not porous. Wood has open grain that can be loaded with contaminants. I'll add that to personal preference :) I wonder why you wouldn't just use your insulation insert material in the gabled hive tops? That's on my to-do list this year. A winter-ready flow hive. I have shelves of their gabled covers as I substituted for them with Beemax covers.
@@FrederickDunn considering most folks that use the acorn frames most likely put them in their hives and the bees do their thing and load them up for the season and going into winter they are covered in brood and honey/pollen and the climate is better controlled with 50,000 bees fanning and keeping the brood warm, I would bet anything that because the have frames in the hives all winter with no climate control that the plastic has contracted because of the cold , 3/16 sounds like a lot but that’s calculated from all sides , I imagine that where the frames sit at the hive it’s about 40,000ths of an inch on each side that is contracted and that’s normal considering the frames are made out of the same poly type plastic as azek exterior trim products that I have used for years and they shrink in the winter about 1/4” from the outside edges , I marked the position for winter so when summer comes I will keep the acorn hive as a test hive to let you know what the exact shrinkage is when not climate controlled with bees , I will keep you posted on this project , and the hives that will be full I will track as well for the climate controlled frames 😀
@@FrederickDunn so you think I should just insulate my fancy pitched roof tops ? I respect your opinion and suggestions immensely 😀
I know that you are busy, but if you have the time, I have a question. Do you use a single deep brood box and a medium super, that you maintain as your winter configuration or year round brood nest?
Yes, that's my year round configuration... but I do add more supers if they are getting bound, AND I also add Flow-supers on some hives.
@@FrederickDunn thank you very much and I do appreciate your time
When I checked my Langstroth hive today the bees were flying and the temperature was only 39-41 degrees Fahrenheit. Check out my short.
When the sun shines, they can sure head out... they may be doing cleansing flights.
@@FrederickDunn they also clean house there is a bee on the side of landing board dragging out a bee.
Hey Fred. Thanks for another great video.
Last fall when I harvested honey I ended up with an extra super of honey that I wasn’t ready to harvest. I put the entire super in my deep freezer and It has been in there all winter long. Do you feel that It would still be just as good to harvest to sell/consume as It was last year? If so how would u recommend thawing to make sure that condensation doesn’t penetrate the capping and raise the moisture content of the honey?
Thanks in advance,
David Shrewsberry
Hi David, I need to make a short video about this. I put those supers on a rolling cart in my basement, and that is in a tent - 60 x 60 x 80 with plenty of room to work inside. VIVOSUN is the brand name. Inside that tent, I place a dehumidifier, and 4 lb size damp-rid buckets (they last years). The Vivosun room allows me to raise the temp in a controlled way (100-105 deg. f). The dehumidifier has a blower that keeps the air moving and that unit actually heats the space in the process as well, but it only gets to circa 87 deg. f without an additional heater. This space works for re-warming honey in the frames, as well as drying any honey that came in too wet. That Vivosun room is under $200, the damp rid is $10/bucket, the dehumidifier may not be necessary if you run fans and an electric hearter instead. At 100 degrees, those frames of capped honey are ready for processing and will be excellent. I hope that helps. I do not recommend using anything such as a propane heater to warm that space, always go with electric as you'll have better control.
@@FrederickDunn Thank you so much for the info and quick response!
@@backyardbeekeepingadventur335 I just happened to be checking in :) You're very welcome!
Hello Mr. Dunn, I plan to add 2nd 10 frame box under the brood box in early spring to expand the brood. Can you please tell me when it's the best time( maybe after they have 5or6 brood frames upstairs)?🤔
I hope you know that I don't recommend that. BUT, you'd want to do it before they naturally descend, and once it's warm enough that you would not be exposing and chilling the early brood before their numbers are large enough to keep that separated brood warm.
@@FrederickDunn thank you 😊
YES! It is too early to report losses. I had made a mistake with my best hive in early December. Day temps were still above 70 degrees f, and I had a liquid feeder with Pro Sweet, as well as the fondant inside the hives. I happened to move the small liquid feeder right on top of the insulation on top of my best hive.
When the feeder ran out, I could not figure out why the bees started going in and out of this small slit on the back of the hive; right above the inset handle. It was an old hive that I got somewhere last century and was still using it.
But here the bees were using this small slit as their entrance/exit, and none were coming and going on the landing board. With the freeze of the following week, I realized that the single hive gate had become plugged by the dripping Pro Sweet and there was no way for the bees to exit!
Quickly, I drilled a 3/4 inch hole in the "slit" and tried to clean out the hive gate. But I was convinced that it was too little too late.
Last week, the temperature was in the high 60's f and I decided to break down the hive and put frames into the freezer so that wax moths and robbing would not occur.
Amazingly, when I opened the lid, there were lots of bees eating the fondant, working the honey super, etc. I didn't investigate further, but quickly replaced the lid and bag of cedar compost "insulation".
So far, no winter losses in my backyard apiary. :D
Thank you for sharing that experience. Heavy syrup can do bad things for sure, depending on the time of year. You've explained it very well here. I'm glad they are still making it.
My mom passed away last year and I hate to say it I did not work my bees the last three months of the year until then the first time yesterday I honestly thought more was dead but so far did not lose but 3 . 2 acid treatment in 2021. None in 2022 and just one the first week of this year. And when I went through them I haven't seen the first mite all the drone was clear and I had flying drones and I found the first Queen cell I just cut it out it was packed it had eggs all the way to brood
I'm very sorry about the passing of your Mom. :(
@@FrederickDunn I never thought I would be so lost without her
@@wadebarnes6720 sorry for your loss , I missed the start of bee season too and only had a few feral colonies and it was too late to start bees in august because I lost my mom at Easter I know exactly what you mean about being lost without her , there’s so much more I want to say to her but I too am learning how to get by now without being able to talk to her . Again I’m sorry for your loss too 😢
hi fred why not use the rapid round instead of the tank.
I don't recommend liquid feeders in winter, no matter what the design is. If you're using dry feed such as sugar, then the rapid round is still a good system for that. And in spring or summer etc.. when you're starting a package or getting a swarm going, the Rapid Round will not leak down into your hive.
I disagree about not taking deadouts apart as soon as you are confident they are dead. Is it not true that honey, particularly late season honey is more prone to crystallization and that freezing the comb will help prevent crystallization therefore making it easier to extract or feed back.
You are always welcome do disagree. If people are confident that they are indeed dead, you can do whatever you'd like to with those. Some backyard keepers have jumped the gun and dumped clusters of live bees out, not understanding that they were in torpor. Golden Rod and Aster honey would likely already be crystalized, but that is easily reliquified by placing an entire frame, or even the super in a warmer and take it to 105 deg. F. the honey in the cells will reliquify and you can still harvest it.
How do you get out the dead bees in your long lang? Just let the bees bring them out? I can't believe the bees would like your Shark vac while they are in the Hive.
The bees remove them, but if I'm doing an inspection and removing frames, I vac them out. Once things get going, they are very good at clearing the bottom.
Hi Fred, do you have a "The Way to Bee" sticker? (like your round logo), I'd like a sticker to put on my Bee Freezer. I want to order a patch, but don't see it on Spring. Thanks for your inspiration and all you do.
Teespring doesn't offer patches, so those are on my website: www.fredsfinefowl.com/thewaytobee.html There are stickers on Teespring, if there is one in particular you'd like, just let me know and I'll make sure that design is available. Thanks for asking!
@@FrederickDunn Thanks, the sticker I was looking for was one just like your Iron-On Patch. Just wanted to put it on my "Bee Freezer". I just ordered the patch.
Have you gotten one of those new inner feeders yet, was it Apimaye or Bee Smart? Those new inner feeders I saw really interested me and I don't like many of plastic products. To much back and forth heat changes will pump that tank dry, I wouldn't to use that kind of tank feeder in the Winter.
Your drawing gave me some ideas for helping deal with humidity/wet here in WA. Where I live we get a lot of Pacific storms traveling up the Columbia river, so our Winters are real wet. How much affect do you think the slatted rack has on humidity control? I wish people would understand ECO-Wood is a treatment not a sealant. You can add a water based pigment to ECO-Wood and change the color it stains, that's what they use. Ty Fred for a great Q & A have a wonderful day.
I don't think slatted racks aid in humidity control or mitigation. They can distance your cluster from bottom board moisture if it's collecting there, but if your hive is tilted toward the landing board that also shouldn't be much of an issue unless there are piles of wet/dead bees also down below.
@@FrederickDunn Ty Fred have a great day.
RUclipsrs Phil Chandler and Black Mountain Honey, both in the UK, have native black bees in their apiaries.
Fred do you have a problem with me pulling a frozen frame of capped honey thawing it to 80f then putting in the hive?
If you have a warm day, nothing wrong with that at all. But, here where I am once those temps rise enough, the bees are finding new nectar on their own. If you have a dearth and they aren't bringing in enough when temps rise, then sounds like a great insurance policy :)
I do have a question if I had a have that had might that you can see in the brood I would not let them raise drones only the one that had very little to none and I looked hard I went through my bees because they had drone in between the the frames and I've seen no varroa mite how many rotations do you need to do that way you can say your bee's are mit resistant
If you're talking about how many generations you need to have a line that breeds true, I would highly suggest that you post that question to those who are truly breeding queens. That's not within my grasp with so few colonies here. The benchmark tends to be more than 100 breeder colonies and drone yards as well as finishing yards.
@@FrederickDunn I have been doing them 6 to 5 years and go back and see but I check drone brood this year and I have seen no mites in them even caught some of the flying ones not seeing nothing on them. I have tried to get in touch with them imagine my name is not big enough to be recognized. lol
Where do I submit my question?
Here you go: www.fredsfinefowl.com/thewaytobee.html
got a weird security threat message when I tried to use your website to submit this question so ill also post it here. sorry if you get 2-3 messages from me of the same question. anywho, what are the negatives associated with permanently caging the queen (aside from the obvious effects of not doing mating flights/ swarms) and will the colony suffer because of it? Any and all info you have on the topic that I may not be asking/assuming is appreciated. this question is because I saw a full frame cage on better bee. PS- love the beach towel with your bee photo on it.. I find myself grinning every time I use it.
The new cage at BetterBee is excellent... but it's still intended to temporarily house the queen while a brood break is made. The queen could lay up an entire deep frame in one week, that means she would then be off-production until they emerge, then her cycle would repeat. The result would also be a much smaller population in that hive, hovering around the minimum of 5,000 workers. And you run the risk of supercedure as the workers may consider that she isn't as productive as they need her to be. Supercedure doesn't always end in the queen departing, at times they may just kill her once they have replacements well on their way. Orrrr, they could obscond. Orrrr... I'm just guessing as I've never put a queen/colony through that kind of restriction. If you do it, please keep us posted!
@@FrederickDunn great info... I might try with a spring split or swarm later this year out of curiosity. If I do I will let you know as it progresses.
i lost 4 of 7 ......... they survived the first cold snap that went to -23F ....... they didnt survive the second.......... Last year i didnt loose any.
Thanks for sharing, lots of our beekeeping club members also credit their losses to the sudden drop in temps we experienced here.
@@FrederickDunn im still pretty inexperienced..... so i could be wrong, but thats my best guess.
So, what is the difference between Ultra-Bee and Bee-Pro? I purchased a small pail of Bee-Pro, being cheaper, when I started working with bees, I have never seen my bees go after the dry Bee-Pro like I see on videos with Ultra-Bee. BTW when my daughter received her PhD in chemistry, she worked for a scientific journal that published papers from Chemistry folks, she would review/edit the paper in her field, theriacal chemistry and others would edit/review the paper from their field of chemistry, the author would make corrections or the paper would be totally debunked, the paper then would/would not be published. The only thing I learned in HS chemistry was how to make moon shine, I'm from the South.
The Pollen Subs have been frequently tested and reviewed. Ultra-Bee has always been near the top if not at the top of the tests. AP23 has also demonstrated excellent results. Bee-Pro is something you'd have to also check up on before spending your hard earned $$. Randy Oliver at ScientificBeekeeping has done extensive field tests, and would be a great resource.
Joe here , feeding 101 mason jar sugar H2O…Charles’s Law. V=KT . Jacques Charles in late 1700s. V1 over T1 = V2 over T2 . Charles’ s Law states that the volume of a given mass of gas varies directly with the absolute temperature of the gas when pressure is kept constant. The absolute temperature is temperature measured with the Kelvin scale. Boule’s law tells us that the volume of gas increases as the pressure decreases. Charles’s law tells us that the volume of gas increases as temperature increases. And Avogadro’s law tells us that the volume of gas increases as the amount as gas increases. Bee keeping 101 ,,,Fred started it ,not me. Please check all spellings and date . Be Safe joe
Did I really send you down that rabbit hole? :) You're welcome!
🇱🇨👍🏼♥️