Unfortunately that Mazda has a different issue and the frequent DPF regenerations are just the symptoms and not the root. The top of the valve cover was wet around the injector, meaning the injector washers have failed hence diluting the engine oil and that's why the DPF is filling fast. However, even bigger issue that the thinner oil will cause oil pressure issues sooner or later, but very likely sooner, the flashing DPF light is the early sign of the Oil Pressure Warning Light to come soon. It needs full top end and bottom end cleaning and also very likely engine carbon cleaning as well. Oh, and don't get me wrong, you are doing a great job and I learn a lot from your videos as well and you can't be a specialist on every engine, make or model. Also what you have done deffo helped the car, but it will have issues soon. (it already has, they just haven't come to the surface yet) Keep up the good work! ;)
@@smashplays7926maybe temporarily,but if you are experiencing this issue a lot of things needed to be done. Top end and bottom end cleaning, carbon cleaning,dpf cleaning. Otherwise anything you do is just patching up the faults of the engine and not fixing the roots of the problems.
No it's a bad job and it's just pulling money out of people. Without checking the exhaust cam, replacing the washers under the injectors and most importantly checking the injectors on the jig this service is useless. This DPF problem is overwhelmingly caused by the injectors.
Well done! I had an issue with a Subaru regenerating frequently and smoking,I suspect the incorrect oil was used at its 15k dealer service.Shortly after my interim 7.5 k oil change everything went back to normal .No smoking either.
Excellent video, Jimmy! Many thanks for posting it. I didn't know about the Acetic Acid dissolving Ash in a DPF. This was a very informative and informative video. I have a question for you: Are there any Diagnostic Machines that do not need an internet connection all the time to work? I do not mind paying for an update when I choose to do so but I do not want a rolling contract or a machine that accesses online data for every operation. When you next do a review of a machine such information would help a lot of people decide what to go for. It may be that a machine that is more expensive initially would not need a continuous data link whereas an apparently lower cost machine does, which increases the hidden costs quite considerably.
awesome and going to give the acetic a go ordered the stronger 30% 5Ltr's for just 15.99 from ebay..fingers crossed i'll be able to sort out my daughter insignia 2.0 turbo and not have to constantly worry that she's one trip away from breaking down on the side of the road. Fella your a star thanks so so much for the videos and tutorials
Ive got a Mazda 6 the book says the x on the dipstick above the max is when it 'NEEDS' changing. Personally i change the oil on mine every 4 months 4k miles just because im wary of oil dilution affecting engine wear protection.
I attended one of these that had started to "run away" it was that overfull with oil, it would be the first thing I would check now before doing anything.
Nice one mate well done throwing everything at that job great end result. Is there any chance you will ever set up a paid questions and answers section? There are a load of question i would be happy to pay for answers from your extensive knowledge.
It would be great to have an update on how frequently this car regenerates after this DPF cleaning. These Skyactive engines are prone to premature fuel injector nozzle wear, exhaust camshaft wear and inlet manifold and ports blocking with carbon. Any of these issues can cause this same issue due to poor combustion. Remove the DPF and the engines smoke like a chimney. Not Mazda’s finest engine.
Acetic acid ! very nice find. can you share a bit of the research you've done on this product with ash content reduction of a DPF? it turns out this is basically just strong vinegar. you are using 20%, but this can be purchased all the way up to 99%. it is extremely corrosive to metals, so I would guess too strong could damage some thing in the exhaust system. have you tried this to clean a DPF without first using the launch cleaner? very curious about this new find of yours. maybe those vehicles that you had to give up on after the first cleaning in the past could have been broken free with a strong solution ?
Abstract Hard carbon is regarded as one of the most promising anode materials for sodium-ion battery. However, the ash content of the hard carbon anode inherited from the precursor have several negative impacts on the electrochemical performance of hard carbon. The traditional method utilizes strong inorganic acid washing to reduce the ash content of hard carbon. However, this method results in heavy environment pressure and safety hazards. Therefore, it’s necessary to exploring an alternative ash content removal method which is safer and environment friendly. This project develops an environmentally friendly approach to remove ash from hard carbon by using acetic acid. This approach effectively reduces the ash content and enhances the electrochemical performance of the hard carbon anode. The ash content of hard carbon decrease from 1.57 wt% to 0.655 wt% after the 4 mol /L acetic acid treatment. The two-step treatment process also studied in this project and shows a better ash removal ability than one-step treatment process. The ash content of 4 mol /L acetic acid and 20 wt% KOH only 0.28 wt%. Furthermore, the electrochemical performance of the two- step treated hard carbon exhibits notable improvements, including enhanced initial Columbic efficiency (from 84.53% to 88.11%), reversible capacity (from 244.2 mAh g-1 to 280.8 mAh g-1). The long cycle performance of chemical treated hard carbon anode need further investigations in future studies. Key words: Hard carbon, Acid wash, Biochar, Sodium-ion battery
@@ORileysAutos very interesting. I wonder if the acid washing of the DPF just un-bonds the soot from the ash, allowing it to be re-deposited at the back of the DPF where it should be, and allowing the soot to be further burned off to clear most of the DPF to exhaust flow again. Or if the acid wash reduces the physical size of the ash molecule, so that it can pass through the DPF with the burned off soot. either way it looks like it extends the life of the DPF that originally was hopelessly plugged up. good work discovering this new option to a completely failed DPF. still curious to see what would happen using just this method alone on a DPF, what would it do to the soot level. this would probably require a foaming agent to be added to make it efficient. Otherwise, liquid alone wouldn't be very practical.
@@flyingfox80 it is strictly calculated by the ECU of the car. that's because the only way to actually know is to weigh it when it's new and then weigh it again when it has ash in it. that is definitely not practical.
@@ORileysAutos Thanks Jimmy Already watching in anticipation.. Enjoy your video’s btw you’ve given me a lot of tips.. p.s. I have a great design of a lambda sensor insert that would benefit for use for cleaning thru lambdas
Hello mate I have a question not sure if it relates to this video. If a car is doing a few rengens by itself . Is that normal or there is an underlying fault with the car?? The reason why I asked some cars don't have a vapouriser to help heat up the DPF. How will those cars get up to the required temp to regen?? Great vids pal. Learning a lot from them.
I have something similar with my car. Dpf regens every 40 miles. Regen happens fine and pressure returns to normal. It then quickly rises again after 40 miles or so to 20 mbar idle. Dpf says 40g ash. Dpf pressure sensor changed and still no different. Also I get readings of 10mbar when it’s off as well
Unfortunately that Mazda has a different issue and the frequent DPF regenerations are just the symptoms and not the root.
The top of the valve cover was wet around the injector, meaning the injector washers have failed hence diluting the engine oil and that's why the DPF is filling fast. However, even bigger issue that the thinner oil will cause oil pressure issues sooner or later, but very likely sooner, the flashing DPF light is the early sign of the Oil Pressure Warning Light to come soon.
It needs full top end and bottom end cleaning and also very likely engine carbon cleaning as well.
Oh, and don't get me wrong, you are doing a great job and I learn a lot from your videos as well and you can't be a specialist on every engine, make or model. Also what you have done deffo helped the car, but it will have issues soon. (it already has, they just haven't come to the surface yet)
Keep up the good work! ;)
I thought it was ticking fairly loud, first thing I noticed. Didn't notice the head was wet though, good spot
@@davidoff59 I do these engines about 8 a month, so quite know what to look for. ;)
@mrniceguy94 do you think replacing the injector washers As well as an oil change would reduce regeneration frequency?
@@smashplays7926maybe temporarily,but if you are experiencing this issue a lot of things needed to be done. Top end and bottom end cleaning, carbon cleaning,dpf cleaning. Otherwise anything you do is just patching up the faults of the engine and not fixing the roots of the problems.
No it's a bad job and it's just pulling money out of people. Without checking the exhaust cam, replacing the washers under the injectors and most importantly checking the injectors on the jig this service is useless. This DPF problem is overwhelmingly caused by the injectors.
Well done!
I had an issue with a Subaru regenerating frequently and smoking,I suspect the incorrect oil was used at its 15k dealer service.Shortly after my interim 7.5 k oil change everything went back to normal .No smoking either.
Excellent video, Jimmy! Many thanks for posting it. I didn't know about the Acetic Acid dissolving Ash in a DPF. This was a very informative and informative video.
I have a question for you: Are there any Diagnostic Machines that do not need an internet connection all the time to work? I do not mind paying for an update when I choose to do so but I do not want a rolling contract or a machine that accesses online data for every operation.
When you next do a review of a machine such information would help a lot of people decide what to go for. It may be that a machine that is more expensive initially would not need a continuous data link whereas an apparently lower cost machine does, which increases the hidden costs quite considerably.
I was wondering where you were today Boss 👍 .... what a guy ...Grand Job
Nice one Jimmy , its been a bit chilly today , time for tge heated body warmer 😅, like the acetic acid Jimmy , well done 👏
awesome and going to give the acetic a go ordered the stronger 30% 5Ltr's for just 15.99 from ebay..fingers crossed i'll be able to sort out my daughter insignia 2.0 turbo and not have to constantly worry that she's one trip away from breaking down on the side of the road. Fella your a star thanks so so much for the videos and tutorials
Did it work
Ive got a Mazda 6 the book says the x on the dipstick above the max is when it 'NEEDS' changing. Personally i change the oil on mine every 4 months 4k miles just because im wary of oil dilution affecting engine wear protection.
I attended one of these that had started to "run away" it was that overfull with oil, it would be the first thing I would check now before doing anything.
Nice one mate well done throwing everything at that job great end result. Is there any chance you will ever set up a paid questions and answers section? There are a load of question i would be happy to pay for answers from your extensive knowledge.
It would be great to have an update on how frequently this car regenerates after this DPF cleaning. These Skyactive engines are prone to premature fuel injector nozzle wear, exhaust camshaft wear and inlet manifold and ports blocking with carbon. Any of these issues can cause this same issue due to poor combustion. Remove the DPF and the engines smoke like a chimney. Not Mazda’s finest engine.
Another show as to why you should not trust cheap replacement parts.
The best acid to use is Brick cleaner for Ash there's a guy on YT did an experiment.
Thanks for sharing. How much acetic acid have you used?
Oh let's look in a bag... Bits of random things, bin. Not O'riely he knows every bit 👌.
Maybe this is why I'm not a mechanic 😅
Great result as usual, how long is the wait to book an appointment mate.
Depends. Usually a few weeks
Acetic acid ! very nice find. can you share a bit of the research you've done on this product with ash content reduction of a DPF? it turns out this is basically just strong vinegar. you are using 20%, but this can be purchased all the way up to 99%. it is extremely corrosive to metals, so I would guess too strong could damage some thing in the exhaust system. have you tried this to clean a DPF without first using the launch cleaner? very curious about this new find of yours.
maybe those vehicles that you had to give up on after the first cleaning in the past could have been broken free with a strong solution ?
Abstract
Hard carbon is regarded as one of the most promising anode materials for sodium-ion
battery. However, the ash content of the hard carbon anode inherited from the
precursor have several negative impacts on the electrochemical performance of hard
carbon. The traditional method utilizes strong inorganic acid washing to reduce the
ash content of hard carbon. However, this method results in heavy environment
pressure and safety hazards. Therefore, it’s necessary to exploring an alternative ash
content removal method which is safer and environment friendly.
This project develops an environmentally friendly approach to remove ash from hard
carbon by using acetic acid. This approach effectively reduces the ash content and
enhances the electrochemical performance of the hard carbon anode. The ash content
of hard carbon decrease from 1.57 wt% to 0.655 wt% after the 4 mol /L acetic acid
treatment. The two-step treatment process also studied in this project and shows a
better ash removal ability than one-step treatment process. The ash content of 4 mol
/L acetic acid and 20 wt% KOH only 0.28 wt%. Furthermore, the electrochemical
performance of the two- step treated hard carbon exhibits notable improvements,
including enhanced initial Columbic efficiency (from 84.53% to 88.11%), reversible
capacity (from 244.2 mAh g-1 to 280.8 mAh g-1). The long cycle performance of
chemical treated hard carbon anode need further investigations in future studies.
Key words: Hard carbon, Acid wash, Biochar, Sodium-ion battery
@@ORileysAutos very interesting. I wonder if the acid washing of the DPF just un-bonds the soot from the ash, allowing it to be re-deposited at the back of the DPF where it should be, and allowing the soot to be further burned off to clear most of the DPF to exhaust flow again. Or if the acid wash reduces the physical size of the ash molecule, so that it can pass through the DPF with the burned off soot. either way it looks like it extends the life of the DPF that originally was hopelessly plugged up. good work discovering this new option to a completely failed DPF. still curious to see what would happen using just this method alone on a DPF, what would it do to the soot level. this would probably require a foaming agent to be added to make it efficient. Otherwise, liquid alone wouldn't be very practical.
Super video as always
Is there anyway on reading ash content/amount in dpf
@@flyingfox80 it is strictly calculated by the ECU of the car. that's because the only way to actually know is to weigh it when it's new and then weigh it again when it has ash in it. that is definitely not practical.
Hi Jimmy great job & great advice too..
Just curious how much Acetic acid did you use.. Was it the usual 1ltr
Yes 1L
I'll have to try it a few more times before I'm convinced it works
@@ORileysAutos Thanks Jimmy Already watching in anticipation..
Enjoy your video’s btw you’ve given me a lot of tips..
p.s. I have a great design of a lambda sensor insert that would benefit for use for cleaning thru lambdas
Hello mate
I have a question not sure if it relates to this video.
If a car is doing a few rengens by itself . Is that normal or there is an underlying fault with the car??
The reason why I asked some cars don't have a vapouriser to help heat up the DPF.
How will those cars get up to the required temp to regen??
Great vids pal. Learning a lot from them.
I have something similar with my car. Dpf regens every 40 miles. Regen happens fine and pressure returns to normal. It then quickly rises again after 40 miles or so to 20 mbar idle. Dpf says 40g ash. Dpf pressure sensor changed and still no different. Also I get readings of 10mbar when it’s off as well
A little bit of experimenting today😊😊😊Now we just need more Guinea Pigs sorry Customers 😂😂😂