B.B.M.1930s How to Lay High Level Model Railroad Track and Turnouts (Weinert "Mein Gleis")
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- Опубликовано: 21 дек 2017
- In this episode I´m sharing with you my tried and true method to lay track and turnouts including wireing.
The result is precisely aligned track, very high electrical and mechanical reliability and a realistic, awesome look. 
Хобби
Those are beautiful turnouts. Great video. Very informative. Thanks for sharing it.
I'm so glad I found your channel, so informative and inspirational!
Amazing attention to details. Very nice.
Thank you for all the small tips and tricks in this video! You make it look very easy :-D I'm planning to use these Weinert weichen soon.
Great video very informative and the fish plates from Weinbert look so much better than alternatives.
Thanks, did not spot what changed!
Best regards Trevor
Lots of very good tips here! Nice job!
Alex, thanks, great information, track is fantastic. To late for me to change from Tillig now, but the switch motor looks good.
Thanks again
Really great work, my attention to detail is perhaps not as great as yours but I admire you as a fellow railway modeller! Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Servus Alex. Das ist ein sehr interessantes Video und klasse geziegt. Vielen Dank dafür. Hier konnte ich mir wieder einige Kniffe abschauen. Vielen Dank und LG - Tino
I loved this video - extremely useful!
Excellent work!
Thank you for sharing!!
John
Brilian tutorial :-) ALready start using Weinert tracks(switch not yet)so very helpful :-)Thank you
Magnifique travail de précision. Les modélistes qui comprennent l'importance de bien installer les rails sont très rares. Gute arbeit ! Ich danke ihnen sehr.
Wirklich ein paar nette Tricks dabei, vielen Dank!
Vielen Dank für dieses gute Video..Daumen hoch
Ja, Klasse! Die mp1 nutze ich auch. Von Conrad habe ich mir einen bestellt, der schon im Testaufbau durch häufiges Klemmen brillierte....
Der mp1 lässt sich auch mit digitalen Schaltdecodern einfach ansteuern (zumindest wenn sich die Plusdauer auf ca. 2 s einstellen lässt wie beim 63410)! Und das günstiger als mir vielen Originalantrieben.
Great Job!
I am intrigued by the throw bar on the points.
Wieso hab ich hier dauernd Bob Ross' The Joy of Painting im Kopf!? 😉
Herrlich beruhigend kommentiert. Und bei der handwerklichen Ausführung (übrigens genau wie beim Anhalter Bf.!) kann ich sowieso nur vor Neid erblassen. 😉
Ein sehr schmeichelhafter Vergleich, vielen Dank... Bob Ross ist eine Legende!
Klasse Video. Jetzt würde ich mich sogar daran trauen, so was selber mal zu versuchen.
Ich selber plane mit Tillig Gleisen und die Kombination mit den H0/H0e und H0/H0m Gleisen.
I have just discovered your channel. I saw your cab ride/Führerstandsmitfahrt and was immediately struck by the smoothness and finesse of your trackwork, especially the very shallow radius points. I am used to Peco track and compared to yours, it sometimes looks like trains are turning like a car turns round a street corner. I have heard of Weinert, and previously used some of their products alongside the former Bochmann & Kochendorfer kits when I modelled a German steam era Betriebswerk. But I hadn't heard of their Mein Gleis range before: it looks amazing, but also rather delicate. I've just looked at the cost on the Weinert website, and it is certainly not cheap: now I see why you are so careful laying the points - as well as getting the perfect appearance you have achieved, it would be very expensive to make a mistake! Is all your track Weinert Mein Gleis?
Dear Andrew, thanks a lot for your appreciation. I put a lot of effort in accurate track laying because I just love seeing trains running smoothly over the tracks as on the prototype. Almost all of my track is and will be "Mein Gleis". In some more recessed and hidden areas I use Tillig, Roco and Peco track left over from previous layouts. By the way, all the rails of the "MeinGleis" track are original Peco Code 75 rails, "only" the ties/sleepers are Weinert.
Hello! I found recently your channel and your track laying technique is perfect. To me, one of the most important things in a layout is the track alignment and you nailed it. By the way, what do you use to cover the area of the turnout pin (11m28s)? Cheers! Carlos Silva
Thanks Carlos! That little grey cover with the slot for the pin comes in the box with each Weinert turnout. For other turnouts it´s easy to make that cover by your own with some 0.5mm-plastic sheet (maybe scrap credit- or bonus card) and a cutter and than fix it the same way as I do here in this video. For advanced track laying also check out my new video: ruclips.net/video/jHw2AYpGyc0/видео.html
Thanks!!!!!! Do I finally have my motor. Thanks a lot.
Those Weinert turnouts look fantastic, really informative video, thank you very much. Do Weinert make N Scale turnouts by the way?
Thanks Phil! Weinert´s "Mein Gleis" is only H0.
Grazie !!!!
My complements , you are doing the work with a great finesse . I have a question . Do you have any experience how hard would it be to adjust the Weinert to the Tillig Elite profile ? Difference is 2 mm .
Thanks Leo Jurin, I combined Tillig Elite turnouts (code83) I wanted to reuse with Weinert Flextrack (code75) in Basel Badischer Station. It works. Total height of Tillig Elite track (rail + tie) is 4.2mm, code83 rail is 2.1mm high. Weinert total height of track is 4.0mm, Weinert uses Peco rail code75 that is 1.9mm high. So basically there is a 0.2mm height difference at the top oft he rails. At a joint between the two different tracks I recommend to solder the code75-rails upside down to the Tillig track to perfectly align the rail top surface and then back on the layout allow a 50 to 100mm long „ramp“ of the Weinert track to rise by 0.2mm to the 4.2mm height oft he Tillig track.
Best
Alex
@@BBM1930s Thank you for the detailed answer . Let's say that I am satisfied with my Tillig Elite in 90 % , but all these questions arise from the fact that I would like to install Mein Gleis DKW . When it comes to Tillig Elite , they have two types of DKW , shorter elegant but not reliable , and a longer , more reliable - say 90 % , but ugly . Used both of them ...
Hallo, ich fahre zwar in Spur N, aber trotzdem ein sehr interessantes Video! Ich habe eine Frage dazu: welches Werkzeug verwendest Du zum Entfernen der Kabelisolierung? (im Video das gelbe Werkzeug) Grüße, Johannes
Danke für dein Interesse! Die von mir benutzte und sehr geschätzte Abisolierzange nennt sich PTS4, ist auch für sehr dünne Litzen geeignet und gibt's für ca.30.- z.B. hier : www.werkzeughaendler.com/208/handwerkzeuge/schneidwerkzeuge---feilen/abisolier-werkzeuge/abisolierzange-pts-4-1.html
Danke für die schnelle Antwort!
Einfach perfekt. Wo kann man die Abdeckung für die Weichenstellhebel-Durchführung beziehen?
Danke! Eine "Schotterimitation" ist bei jeder Weinert "Mein Gleis"-Weiche in der Packung dabei. Man kann sie auch separat zu 10 Stk. unter der Art. Nr.74020 bei z.B. www.weinert-bauteile.de kaufen.
Vielen Dank
Is it a good idea to build baseboards over those hydronic heating panels...
That radiator is indeed in the way... it's permanently off, no need even on very cold days because of other heating panels down the studio. I'm thinking of getting rid of it...
Hello, what brand of track and rail joiners are you using?
Hi, it's in the title: It's all track and joiners from Weinert Modellbau, Germany, named "Mein Gleis": www.mein-gleis.de.
You don't use a cork road bed? and the turnouts like used here, there are similar to the NMRA number 8. Good vídeo.
I use 3 and 5mm thick rubber mat on the main and also under hidden track that won´t get ballasted. Without ballast, this is the most silence road bed I could get. The yard shown in this video is build on 22mm thick plywood supported by legs on rubber blocks. This helps silencing. I tested different solutions for road bed and found that once ballasted, even track on rubber mat gets much more noisy than before. Seems like the real stone ballast is directly reflecting the noise from the rolling wheels on the rail. Nevertheless a rubber mat as road bed slightly improves the noise quality, so in the future I will use rubber mat on yards and stations, too.
Yes, the turnouts are 1:87 models of the standard Deutsche Reichsbahn turnouts 1:9 with 190m radius with only the modifications needed to run NEM wheels.
Thanks for watching.
Hi Alex, yes roadbed is an interesting question, thanks for your point of view on this.
best regards Stanley
@@BBM1930s Hi Alex.
I notice that the Weinert website recommend using a latex based adhesive to glue down ballast, presumably to further dampen noise when laying track over their rubber mats. Have you ever considered doing this?
By the way, your ballast video clip blending different colours of stones ended up with the most realistic looking model ballast that I have ever seen. I'm in awe!
@@WaveMaker124 Hi wavemaker, thanks a lot. I indeed do use latex based glue to fix ballast, I mention it in my ballast and weathering video after 5:25: ruclips.net/video/9Wt6fhGa56A/видео.html.
But as noticed above, there is a direct noise reflection of the stones, so noise dumping is not that effective.
@@BBM1930s True . I came to the same conclusion . Ballasted gives more noise ,and interestingly , when passing over a 70 cm Hack ( metal ) bridge , there is a lull . I was considering ballasting with cork , but that would mean that I would have to grind it , sift it to a specific size ( tedious ) and lastly color it ( that would be a challenge of time and color authenticity ) . So what I did , in the new segment of my layout , I have glued the cork underneath the entire base . On top glued styrodur of 3 mm . Unfortunately , I cannot inform on the level of noise , since the track has not been laid yet .
NIce tutorial ! What is a track code 75 or 83 ?
Code 75 is the height of the rail. Starting from the old standard model railroad rail height beeing 2.5mm, it's the percentage of this 2.5mm=code100, so code75 is 75% of 2.5=1.9mm. code83 is approx. 83%=2.1mm.
@@BBM1930s Thanks! With best regards from russian modellroader.
Hallo Alex,
wie gewohnt wieder einmal fantastisch in Szene gesetzt.
Bist du mit den Weichenantriebe zufrieden?
Ich hätte da so meine Zweifel, denn ich würde lieber Antriebe mit Metallgetriebe bevorzugen.
Gruß Frank
shop2.paan-bahn.at/de/weichenantrieb/22-servo-weichenantrieb-varianten.html
Schau doch mal dort nach, auch eine interessante Variante. Vor allembei einem Defekt kann man es mühelos austauschen.
Gruß Frank
Hallo Frank, die mp1-Antriebe von mtb sind auch nur ein Kompromiss. Einziger echter Nachteil für mich das laute Geräusch, aber sonst Preis (12,-), Funktion, Kompaktheit, Einfachheit und integrierte Umpolung sind gut. Allein im Anhalter sind mehr als 50 Weichen, da ist der Preis und die schnelle Installation echt wichtig. Alle anderen Lösungen, die ich bisher kenne, sind in Summe für mich schlechter als der mp1.
Verstehe. Das liebe Geld spielt natürlich auch eine Rolle.
Aber was Funktionalität und Lebensdauer bei langjähriger Belastung angeht würde ich eher auf einen Servo mit Metallgetriebe zurückgreifen, besonders an schwer zugänglichen Stellen...
Mal eine andere Frage, was machst du eigentlich beruflich??? Wenn ich mir so deine akribische, bis zur Perfektion und bis ins Detail ausgearbeitete handwerkliche Arbeit ansehe muss es schon in Richtung Profi Modellbauer gehen.
Gruß Frank
@@francisconelles6849 Beruflich bin ich Automobilingenieur in der Konzeptentwicklung.
Ich konnte mir soetwas denken... Ingenieur oder Architekt. Auf jeden Fall bin ich mehr als begeistert von deiner Arbeit, ich verschlinge geradezu deine Videos.
Doch ein dieslike muss ich dir geben... es gibt viel zu wenig von deinen Videos...
Spaß beiseite... mir ist schon klar wie aufwendig und zeitraubend das alles ist.
Man erkennt es an der Qualität der Videos. Ich hoffe nur, dass du noch viele, viele, viele in der Art machst.
Gruß Frank
I am eagerly waiting for more instalments - hope everything is OK
Thanks, I need to finish at least a portion of the 19m of Anhalter platforms including ballasted track to show the final result in the next video, I'm working on it.
@@BBM1930s I am planning a large layout 700 metres based upon the Western Portal of the Hönebach Tunnel - I am going to use Mein Gleis and hopefully I can achieve a standard not too far from your own - I consider your track to be state of the art :)
@NeilWB I feel honored, thanks...Very impressive project... good luck! In my next video there will be a simple method to weather the ties more quickly than shown in my old video, 700m is a lot of track... :-).
For those of you who like to solve a riddle: I replaced an entire part without notice during the shooting... The replaced and the replacing part look similar of course, but are totally different. .. It´s shown dozens of times in close-ups.
Which part is it and why did I have to replace it? Good luck...
I give up :-)
Short stub track length 39mm ?
Sleeper separation distance mismatch ?
Width of sleepers = 3mm
Width of gap between sleepers = 4.53mm
Length of protruding rail required = 4.53mm + 3mm + ½ x 4.53mm = 9.8mm
9.8mm protruding at each end + 3 intermediate sleepers + 2 intermediate sleeper gaps
= 9.8 + 9.8 + 3 x 3 + 2 x 4.53
= 37.66 mm ???
=> use a longer piece with 4 intermediate sleepers, not 3 intermediate sleepers, and shorten next piece of track by 1.4mm ?
Thanks Donald for your guess! Yes, it´s about the 39mm long track segment. At 5:32 you can see the ties are connected at the lower left and upper right side (seen from the viewer), then at 6:58 it´s the other way around, lower right and upper left. By mistake I drilled the holes in proximity of the connections instead of the gaps between the ties, so I had to replace the three ties block afterwards …
Best
Alex
Schönes Video. Schade das es nicht in Deutsch ist ;( (Übersetzte Untertitel sind grauenvoll). Ich verstehe nicht ganz was Du ab 10:35 an den Weichen lötetst.
Danke, ab 10:35 löte ich die beiden Pole der Stromeinspeisung für die ganze Weiche und die Herzstückpolarisierung an.
Bekomme ich ein hey?
Hey!
University.
Why do model railroaders always use the crappiest soldering irons they can find?
LoL... True... funny enough: the yellow one in the first part ("Basetech" crap) is still in my workshop working fine, the blue one at the end of the video ("Ersa" ) got broken last year.
Hochinteressant .
That's a hell of a lot of work for track that is under scale by about 7 inches on the prototype.
What do you mean by 7" under scale, I have no idea...?
@John,
This ist HO not OO. Or in british modeler parlance 3.5mm not 4mm (to the foot) Everything is fine.