Overexposure with Film: It's not always as bad as you think! Is it?
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- Опубликовано: 15 фев 2024
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In this video I explore overexposing film and try to explain a little bit of how film, light and chemicals work together, moreover, I test Fomapan 200 and try to print a 5 stop over exposed negative.
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EQUIPMENT USED IN THIS VIDEO
CAMERA - Nikon F6
LENS - Nikkor Micro 55mm f2.8
FILM - Fomapan 200
DEVELOPER - Rodinal 1/50
ENLARGER - DURST M605
PAPER - Kentmere VC Select
DEVELOPER - Fotospeed
PRODUCTION GEAR
Nikon ZF, 40mm Lens.
NEEWER LED PANELS, GVM COLOUR PANELS, Valoi 360 Film Holder
Editing - FCP, PHOTOSHOP, LIGHTROOM,
ABOUT MY VIDEOS
If my videos inspire, create ideas and help others in film photography and darkroom work then it's worth making them.
I always welcome comments that are useful towards the video subject that will help others understand the process within.
Keep shooting and thanks for watching.
MUSIC CREDITING
RUclips Studio Music 
Хобби
I must apologise and credit "PhotoMitch on Instagram @photomitch" It was Mitch that gave me the film and letter not John Esco! John gave me similar film a few weeks back and I got it arse about face! So thanks Mitch, and John!
For years I’ve always shot film at half the rated ISO to expose more for the shadows and still retain highlights. It was common practice among pro photographers back in the day. In this digital world, it would be akin to exposing to the right of the histogram.
An important lesson for all of us so thanks boss
A very much fun hands-on demonstration on the impact of (and advice for) overexposure. The hands-on part makes this an exceptional video. Thank you!
Such a good tip in comparing leaders from one roll to another to see the relative development. Also like the tip on being able to read a newspaper through the negatives. I've always cut the leaders off and thrown away. Will definitely consider keeping them and sleeving with the negs.
I think I over exposed myself taking a nature break on my photo walk today. I was wide open but hopefully no one noticed!!🤣🤣 Seriously, another thought provoking video man. I’m shooting way too much digital lately, as in no film at all. But I have plans, OM2N loaded and two vintage 120 cameras to test. Ain’t photography the greatest man. 👍📸
Most of the time I expose my 400 box speed film (ultramax 400) and ( xp2 ) at iso 200. Works fine for me every time.
I usually expose iso 400 films at 200something (2/3 stops over) and I'm very happy with the results. The shadow detail is simply better.
Excellent video Roger, thankyou.
What you describe was accidentally discovered by Dr. Paul Wolff a German photographer. He noticed that underdevelopment also reduced graininess. Ansel Adams also wrote about it in his book "the Negative" (highly recommended btw.). He talked about it in terms of the zone system. By adjusting development times (n-1, n-2 n+1 N+2 etc you can expand or contract the zones in order to get the optimal details in highlight or shadows.,especially if one adjusts exposure to place an object within a desired zone. Usually n-2 or more will produce unpredictable outcomes for 35 mm film.
Thank you so much for this video, please do more like this. Very educational
Sure thing!
Very cool to see this.. I almost always half the box speed. I have actually found that some of my photos still could be a bit more exposed lol.. So yeah film is very forgiving most the time :).
Thanks!
Great video for someone new to film like myself. Some have mentioned rating the film at half box speed. Should I tell my developer (shop) that I have done this?
With analoge film I generally slightly overexpose my film. In the darkroom I find it easier to correct for overexposed than for underexposed film as you mentioned.
Definitely!
Nice one Rodger, well explained and nice video.
Thanks Andrew.
ohhh. a third strip that'd been stand developed would've been nice to see as a comparison.
Very true!
Nice 1 ! Very helpful 👌
For once I'm SO glad I messed up!! 😀 Cheers for the vid m8 🙂 And in glad my cockup has come to some good use 🙂
Ha Ha cheers mate.
“Rodinol tells the truth.”, lol.. love it. Thanks for blasting through a few precious frames of money, I mean film, to put people’s minds at ease about overexposure. Watching many of your videos where you make test prints and final prints has me wondering.. do you have a favorite type of photo paper for your B&W and color printing. There are so many from which to choose. Cheers!
Glad you enjoyed it! I always use Resin over Fibre. It's cheaper! And Kentmere I use often because it's slightly cheaper than Ilford and I still get great tones. That said I do like the Ilford Deluxe papers, very rich blacks. Then there is a choice for Gloss or Non Gloss. Gloss I like but it's a pain to show on the video because of the light reflections, so I use Mat a lot. (Or Lustre).
You ever shot anything with that Agfa camera you were using as a prop? I've got a Kodak Tourist but I'm afraid to try shooting with it on the count that it only takes 620 film can you say KACHING!!!
Very interesting! Could you do a Video like this but underexposing? Maybe you already did but I missed it.
Thank you for your Quality Content, I loved the Animations in this Video about the Developing Process, very nicely done!
You are the Boss :-)))
U've been using Caffenol CM and I got some very dense negatives lately. I think I developed too long but maybe my Pentacon Six is a bit slow in the exposure settings..
Very good video. Best regards from Portugal
Thanks mate.
The 55mm Micro Nikkor is laser sharp.
I use the 55mm Micro Nikkor attached to a Fuji X-T3 for scanning negatives, excellent results!
It is a good lens!
Me too !
When I studied photography in the 1970s Silver Halide was pronounced as 'Haylide'. Might I suggest to avoid confusion that you refer to 1/60th of a second as "a sixtieth of a second" rather than "one sixtieth of a second".. after all, 1/250th of a second would be said as "a two fiftieth of a second" so it follows that "one sixtieth of a second" could be interpreter as 1/160th by many persons.. by me anyway. 🧐
Thank you. I take your videos as a superb, enjoyable course presented at PhD level.
Many thanks!
Thank you to get this experiment to us. But I would say that real issue with the film not the overexposure (usually that will be 1-2 stops), but underexposure error. Then it will be more difficult to restore shadow details, as they controlled by exposure.
Yes Rudolf. Underexposure is far worse. Shadows are pretty much gone.
good
What developer do you usually use for paper? Thinking about putting my darkroom back together and looking for ideas.
I am using Fotospeed PD5 at the moment Scott. Usually I use Ilford Multigrade if i'm a bit flush.
I don't mean to go off topic, but I really value your opinion. It looks like you have the Nikon ZF. For digital, do you like it? I'm a hybrid shooter, but my digital camera is around 10yrs old. Been wondering about the ZF. Thanks Boss!
First mirrorless camera for me. And the flip out screen and auto focus is great for video when i'm talking into camera. I used it the first time last week at an event for photos all day and I must admit where I am used to a big ole DSLR (Canon 6D) I found all day with the ZF was not as comfortable due to the size, especially with a flash unit on top at night, but nothing a cosy grip accessory can't fix. Which is on my list. But the image quality, focusing and ISO in low light was amazing! And I have the 40mm f2 lens for it which is very good. I used the camera mostly for this video, except the video shot of the ZF being used. That was a canon 6D with the nikkor 55mm f2.8 attached using an adapter. I also got the K&F Concept adapter for the ZF which means I can attach all my Nikon F fit lenses to it, all be it without auto focus but I am used to that anyway. Hope that helps.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss yes thank you so much. Best regards!
The way i like to see it: including printing, when you shoot film, there are three points of exposure. 1: the light exposure on the film, 2: the exposure of developper to the film and three, the light through the film on the paper. To an extend, a mistake in stage 1 can be corrected in stage 2 and 3 to still produce an acceptable result
Thanks :)
Roger you know that the Nikon F6 is not just a (this camera) it is The Camera.
It's a beauty Rick!
Hello Boss👍
Hello 👋
Did I hear that right? Cold War light?
COLBOR! LOL
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss 🤣🤣🤣
This harkens back to my bemusement with people taking meticulous readings with a $400+ meter. You can abuse the hell out of most b&w. Can't remember where I saw it but some guy did a similar experiment with Tmax and the biggest issue by +8 was the flat contrast. Gives me better confidence shooting manual cameras and ones with fucked meters.
Thats the point Dane. Cheers.
Your lab will have a laugh, but Foma 400 pulls to 25 in a pinch