In DIY-friendly Utah, you would need to pull a permit for an EV charger or the sauna, hot tub, etc. I’m reasonably confident I could manage the actual work to code without killing myself or anyone else; or burning down the house from an electrical fire or short. Where I might run into trouble is locating the specialty enclosures which are very often sold from supply houses which only sel to licensed electrical contractors. Amazon and E-bay are great sources--but I’ve found a lot of Asian or European products which I’ highly suspicious May not meet the NEC. The reason I know this is I’ve been contemplating running a 30 amp circuit to an outdoor shed. If I replace my electric stove with natural gas, I’ll not only need a gas line extension but a new circuit pulled for the range. Which means replacing the ancient circa 1948 Federal brand indoor sub panel. Which needs to be replaced anyway since it has six spaces, all full. The kitchen circuit handles not only the lights but the dishwasher, disposal, microwave, refrigerator, and outlets. Fortunately, the breaker trips if we forget and use the toaster with the microwave and dishwasher running. But I’’m uncomfortable with the situation. I could replace the panel myself. The issue is pulling the cable for new circuits. I have neurological issue affecting my balance. I have no business climbing into the attic to pull cable. And I don’t think my 255 lb 6’ body can fit through the crawl space access door. I’ve considered asking an electrician to pull the cable for me and inspect the work when I’ve done the rest. Assuming I wouldn’t offend by asking. We’re in the midst of a building boom here so the various trades can pick and choose what they do. Assuming you can even get anyone to respond to a request for a bid.
I am planning for a 24000 BTU Mini Split in Texas. 240v 30amp I have room in the breaker box. Based upon another of your videos, I can run 10/2 NM romex from breaker and transition to J-box with #10 wires thru conduit for the outside run to a disconnect. Or Can I run 10/2 UF-B from the breaker box thru the attic and transition to 3/4" conduit for the outside run to a disconnect? 100 ' of UF-B wire roll is $137 at Lowes. Romex NM is $188.
With modern computer hardware, I almost need a 240 for my home office. 😭
nice
In DIY-friendly Utah, you would need to pull a permit for an EV charger or the sauna, hot tub, etc. I’m reasonably confident I could manage the actual work to code without killing myself or anyone else; or burning down the house from an electrical fire or short. Where I might run into trouble is locating the specialty enclosures which are very often sold from supply houses which only sel to licensed electrical contractors. Amazon and E-bay are great sources--but I’ve found a lot of Asian or European products which I’ highly suspicious May not meet the NEC. The reason I know this is I’ve been contemplating running a 30 amp circuit to an outdoor shed. If I replace my electric stove with natural gas, I’ll not only need a gas line extension but a new circuit pulled for the range. Which means replacing the ancient circa 1948 Federal brand indoor sub panel. Which needs to be replaced anyway since it has six spaces, all full. The kitchen circuit handles not only the lights but the dishwasher, disposal, microwave, refrigerator, and outlets. Fortunately, the breaker trips if we forget and use the toaster with the microwave and dishwasher running. But I’’m uncomfortable with the situation. I could replace the panel myself. The issue is pulling the cable for new circuits. I have neurological issue affecting my balance. I have no business climbing into the attic to pull cable. And I don’t think my 255 lb 6’ body can fit through the crawl space access door. I’ve considered asking an electrician to pull the cable for me and inspect the work when I’ve done the rest. Assuming I wouldn’t offend by asking. We’re in the midst of a building boom here so the various trades can pick and choose what they do. Assuming you can even get anyone to respond to a request for a bid.
Common tale with a lot of building boom cycles right now.
I am planning for a 24000 BTU Mini Split in Texas.
240v 30amp
I have room in the breaker box.
Based upon another of your videos, I can run 10/2 NM romex from breaker and transition to J-box with #10 wires thru conduit for the outside run to a disconnect.
Or
Can I run 10/2 UF-B from the breaker box thru the attic and transition to 3/4" conduit for the outside run to a disconnect?
100 ' of UF-B wire roll is $137 at Lowes.
Romex NM is $188.
Either will work. I'm not a fan of UF - just the makeup with the sheath.