Punisher Bootleg JAMMA & Commodore 1084S Part 5 - Repair
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- Опубликовано: 3 окт 2024
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A quick look at a faulty Punisher (Bootleg) arcade PCB, and whilst looking at this I do a few fixes to my 1084S-D1 monitor.
Thanks to ElectronAsh for donating this to the channel!
1084S Repair
Part 1 - • Commodore 1084S (1084S...
Part 2 - • Commodore 1084S (1084S...
Part 3 - • Commodore 1084S (1084S...
Part 4 - • Commodore 1084S (1084S...
Part 6 - • Commodore 1084S (1084S...
Part 7 - • Commodore 1084S-D1 Rep...
#jamma #arcade #repair 
Наука
![NOSFERATU - Official Trailer [HD] - Only In Theaters December 25](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nulvWqYUM8k/mqdefault.jpg)
NOTE: Never let me navigate for you - I got East and West on the wrong side lol!
Worth clarifying my point on the PIC "emulating" the Q-Sound stuff - I said that in quotes (""), because its probably not emulating much (other than an interface for the 68K to request sounds and music tracks). The samples and music have probably been converted to a PCM format that that m6295 likes, or they may have recorded them from the output of the original and converted to that PCM format for the m6295. The lazy part is they could have fitted 2MB of audio ROM and converted all the sound that way.
1084S Repair
Part 1 - ruclips.net/video/YeLdkaHOxpw/видео.html
Part 2 - ruclips.net/video/_YtIhoOffy0/видео.html
Part 3 - ruclips.net/video/gs_epqnsrRQ/видео.html
Part 4 - ruclips.net/video/CMQwl7LjP-I/видео.html
Part 6 - ruclips.net/video/yndStmgy47k/видео.html
Part 7 - ruclips.net/video/ZMogbh_WIVw/видео.html
Noticed that too 🙈🤣
lol!!. I didn't even notice so I won't be navigating either :-p
Haha =D
From the Top and Clockwise it's: Never Eat Shredded Wheat (in the Northern Hemisphere anyway). For Port and Starboard ask the question: Is there any Red Port Left? 😉
@@SimonZerafa I've always used Never Eat Shredded Wheat too... the other one I'd heard as "port is always left till last".
Part of your youth was creeping out there Chris' on the pincushion potentiometer "It was Well out" 😁 🖖👍
I had a similar issue with a Vintage BW TV/Radio in-one recently. Had to replace x4 potentiometers, ferrite cores. It had the 'golden screw-driver' before, I got it 🤦♂️
Chris I'm joking about the youth bit BTW I used to hear it a lot when we we're younger. We still use that term & hear it, to his day 😊
junk or not, I personally had a lot of fun when I was a kid playing a bootleg Punisher in the summers at my mothers home village, I only realized it was a bootleg years later when I played the game in MAME,
interestingly..there was a bug in that bootleg, just before the final stage..you are in an elevator..sticks of dynamite fall down,if you punch the first ones falling then the game..glitches or something and from there on to the end all enemies die immediately after they appear on screen.
Criss the Jedi soldier will go down in history as the mint Jedi. You may laugh but years to come people will use this as a guide. I’m not biggie up but I’ll say clearly clever dude respect
Thanks =D
Friend, If you are doing to be doing PCB work, you need better desolder solution. I started using a tool from Airvac Engineering in the early 80's when I was doing component level work on early PC's. I still use it today for microcontroller projects. I also have the Hakko desolder tools and it's better for solder globs or heavy ground planes but for precise through the hole IC's etc the AirVac is much better.
You need a shop compressor to drive the tools. It takes 80 psi and converts that to 30" vac.
Often, I can vac all of the pins up to a 28 pin eprom, wiggle it once, turn the board over and the IC falls off the board. I NEVER damage a pad since most of the time I pull all of the old solder off quickly and with one vac pull.
Order some extra consumables and have a spare trap reapy to go. It takes about 5 mins to swap the trap, only because of cool off and warm up. Usually, I can use the tool for a few days b4 swapping the trap even when I do a lot of IC removals.
You will need a stand to rest it when not in use and I don't see one on their page now. However, they show up on ebay from time to time. Or fabricate something. Also, maybe the Hakko stand will work.
www.air-vac-store.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=AS&Category_Code=PVSG
Here is the Hakko unit I use.
www.amazon.com/Hakko-FR-301-Desoldering-633-01-Nozzles/dp/B07HQXLTKN/ref=sr_1_5?crid=18TBQ5Z4Q4EPW&dchild=1&keywords=hakko+desoldering&qid=1624313015&sprefix=hakko+de%2Caps%2C167&sr=8-5
Regards,
Glenn
DSM Labs
Thanks, but I have Hakko already, and a desolder station that is more than capable for this stuff! The pad damage was already done to this board!
That board might be a bit of a mess, but emulating the QSound driver with a PIC is really impressive... seems like some smart people designed that thing!
See my pinned comment above - I suspect its doing little more than feeding "converted" PCM tracks and samples to the DAC!
Yes it is very impressive. Koreans are the best reverse-engineers in the World.
LOL, I missed this vid (was on holiday) and on the latest vid asked about the new shiny Antex bit, haha. Ash is awesome, gonna have to catch up with him soon I think. (Allo ash if you see this :) )
The kitty cat was in sync
LMAO
Very interesting glad you got it going again, very much like a soviet spectrum clone in that the custom IC has been remade using standard logic ICs. I do like clone stuff and looking how they got round things. Had to chuckle at that spider, reminded me of the time back in the 90's when someone brought me an old printer. They said it was working fine then started fizzing so they unplugged it and brought it to me. when I opened it up the switch mode PSUs PCB was covered in cremated ants!
=D LOL at that printer! Yeah, surprising how insects can fizzle like that in these things! Monitor has been fine since, so I am blaming the spider!
1:43, YES!!! I was right. Poke it ❤️ I’m cracking up. Love these videos
Great fix, seems like it'd be simpler to use a Z80 instead of the PIC for sound. But maybe the had to hack some code when converting the PPU ASIC thing. Super interesting video, thanks for posting!
When I see video layer corruption (as in "only the sprites are garbled" or "only one of the background layers is garbled"), I usually piggyback random RAM chips in the video section of the board and see if that changes anything.
If that doesn't change anything, I test with the scope if the piggybacks fight the original RAMs and lose.
And if that's negative, then I go grab the schematics. If there aren't any, I start randomly shorting data pins on ROMs to ground to pinpoint the location of the fault. And then I either dump the suspect ROMs or go hunting for bad logic signals. Sometimes I do that first though, but if the faults look like Video RAM error... goto 10.
43:50 Probably a deglitching cap.
that blue background color is normal on this bootleg board. I fixed one along time ago and thought it still had a issue but after getting another one it also had the same color issue. Try using the service or test pins on edge connector should bring up a menu to change settings ect. Some bootlegs have a test button on the pcb. With sync what ive done on a few bootlegs to sync on a 1084 monitor was change the video clock crystal to either a faster or slower value to solve that sync issue
Thanks! Yes, pretty sure you are right - it probably is outputting a something close to 60Hz, but not near enough.
I have this board. I believe the part you are looking for is a HPC1242H. That is what mine appears to read.
Thanks =D The H is a micro symbol! u
Nice to see it working again! Looks like a typical bootleg of the time, similar to the Street Fighter 2 ones (most bootlegged game in history I should think!) amongst others! I think the same factory (maybe more than one!) was knocking quite a variety of bootleg games out back in the day, i've got a bunch of those in the loft that look very similar to the one in the video! Also pretty typical to see the sound amp snapped or ripped off due to the factory not bothering with a heatsink. I checked a bootleg of mine and the first one I picked up similar to yours has got a NEC uPC1242H on it, i'm sure i've seen other versions of this made by other companies that might be cheaper. Bootlegs can be finicky with the 5v, some i've had need something like 5.4v and some won't work unless it's just below 5v. To be honest, i'd never use anything other than a crt monitor or ideally a proper crt arcade monitor (which would have sync pots) for testing arcade pcbs (although I use a multisync Acorn crt monitor for testing mine). The sync is composite and horizontal should be fine at 15khz, vertical sync should normally be 60hz but quite often (especially on bootlegs) the sync is usually off a bit, like 59.4hz for example or even lower (or higher than 60hz), which can cause problems with some 15khz monitors that don't have a sync control. The thing that I always found simultaneously amusing and frustrating with bootlegs is ones where they sanded off the tops of the chips they used - to apparently try and stop their bootleg being copied! By the way, there was a sync fix on some Namco cabinets that used a resistor (5k if I remember correctly) between sync and ground, it was to help stop an interlace flicker with Hantarex Polo monitors but it may help the sync flicker in your case also.
Thanks for the info there, especially on the audio amplifier, and the point about the sync! I bet you are right there, I bet its something close to 60Hz. I need a more modern scope really!
Wow some replacement ic's are super expensive lately :( - nice repair work! I've found using an oscilloscope is pretty useful at troubleshooting sync issues - maybe its a weak signal or whatever.
I did trace the sync to where its generated etc - and looked at the ICs there. Pretty sure they are OK. I suspect its the frequency! I might revisit at some point!
@@GadgetUK164 sorry to spam, but it is a subjet I am working on these days ;-). Some arcade boards (espacially bootlegs) generate non-standard frequencies. I have 2 outputing 51Hz and one outputing 57Hz. Video signal converters like GBS8200 and probably some TVs don't lock on these frequencies. It might be the case of your monitor, and that might explain the horizontal offset you observe as the monitor's PLL tries to lock on a near 60Hz signal...?
=> oscilloscope time! ;-)
If I may, I would suggest getting some assistance from some extra flux. I´ve found that the tiniest amount of fake cheapo Amtech just touching one side of each pin does wonder to improve not just the soldering, where usually isn´t that a big deal in this kind of jobs, but especially desoldering. My crappy wick roll works several times better and the desoldering gun which initially had me frustrated with the more recent electronics with modern high-temp no-lead no-joy solder is working like a charm and the unobstructing wire that came with it is now barely used. That suggestion of a drop of flux in every pin has improved the experience a lot.
edit: sorry, missed to point I was talking about the early work in the missing dip chip. You´re obviously using flux later with the 6295
SPOILERS!
The TTL chip was already removed when I bought the board on Feebay.
I do recall getting video out of it as well, but I test stuff like this on a CRT, as it makes it much easier to diag stuff like this, vs a modern LCD.
I don't remember the audio amp missing, but then I only tested the board for about ten minutes. lol
I bought the board mainly to try to help reverse some CPS stuff for when I was working (struggling) on a CPS core for MiSTer. Sometimes the bootleg versions of boards can help figure stuff out, because they've already done the work of converting some of the custom chip logic to TTL.
I'm only 16 minutes into the vid, but thinking you could probably just hook up two wires to get line-level audio onto the SCART output on the Supergun. I'm betting that's what you'll do later in the vid. hehe
I agree that the board is a "piece of junk", btw. A lot of bootleg boards are. lol
I didn't even spot the fact it was using a PIC for the sound. I think "emulation" is a fair term there, as it probably is emulating the Z80 instructions in software.
I don't have even half your patience to work on a board like this. lol
I still have an original CPS1 board with Street Fighter 2 on (fully working), but I'll probably sell that soon.
Now that Jotego has done the CPS cores, I don't really have a need for the original board.
But yeah, bootleg boards are still a historic piece, and often very interesting to work on.
I was mildly tempted to do a full schematic of this board on Eagle, if only to help work out some of the sprite logic (CPS boards often use a full framebuffer for sprites).
But there's already quite a bit of info online about CPS, thanks to the likes of Charles Macdonald, and the MAME team.
The PLCC sockets on these boards don't look great, btw. I *think* I had to clean the contacts then press the chip in firmly before I got any video at all out of it when I first tried it.
Thanks for the board - enjoyed working on this one! Wish I could say the same about the Mega Tech board lol! I think with that I need to do a lot more, and less chance of success I think =/ Thanks for your help with the Mega Tech on Twitter! Not had a chance to reply today!
@@GadgetUK164 No problem at all. You know I don't mind. ;)
No obligation to repair everything either, btw. You work too hard on this stuff already. lol
Where there is flickering, there is probing and poking with the small screw driver 😜❤️
Well, at least that board has plenty of spare TTL chips you can yank for repairs on a dead C64 or Amiga or something. I suspect that the parts on the board are probably worth more than the whole board; a known-good 68000 is handy for testing older Amiga or early Macs if you suspect they have a bad CPU. Is the PIC a “16C” or “16F” variety? Anyway, another good diagnosis/repair video. 🙂
Hehe =D I cannot remember the PIC model number now, I did mention it in the video though!
For cleaning up video signals, I've had good luck with Extrons.
Thanks for the tip - will check that out!
Boots are temperamental. They are a compromise on quality and money. Most bootlegs are okay. They are easier to repair due to the absence of custom chips (with the exception of the PLCs) I personally have around ☆100 JAMMA☆ - boards and over half of them are bootlegs... ♡ em!
We need Luigi cam ! put him to work
LOL!
Cadillacs and Dinosaurs bootleg is even worse. Voices and sound effects got shuffled randomly.
Nice video and handy work. I’ve added a TF330
on my CD32 with a vga cable. It was working great however now it’s flicking. Any ideas please? I tried the S video cable and it was fine.
I suspect its probably the cable you are using! Are you connecting up to a VGA monitor? That won't work, unless its a true multi sync monitor (some of the NEC Multi Sync monitors will work - but not all).
@@GadgetUK164 I changed mode to delacing and forget! Fixed now, doh! Thanks for getting back
hello mr GadgetUK164 .I have inactive punisher bootleg pcb .i need this game all pals dump for repeair. how can i find this pal files for this game
I don't think they have been dumped! Someone would have to dump them - any that are of the registered type could be difficult to do.
I've heard something bout Bootlegs needing additional ground with the monitor so they sync right. Not sure if that's the case here.