My wrist learned real quick to slap the board too. When I see guys, usually younger, just jerk the trowel down I wonder how long they’ve been doing it for, or how their wrist will be able to keep doing it. When I’m checking how a lead is tailing I like to hold the string back about a 16th off the corner though. That way you get a true gauge. Wrapping it around the corner means you could be running slightly out and not see it because the string could still be tight against the block everywhere. Running your long level down on a 45 across all the steps is a good guage of quality too. It should evenly contact all the outermost corners. Keep up the good work.
The man that taught me was the best block layer around....he showed me the real secret to laying block....NOW we were laying 12 inch block and he showed me to #1 only go up 3 courses in a day...#2 fill 3 cells at the corner with mud n slag....#3 shoot every 3rd course with a transit on the corners.... #4...wire every other layer. #5 fill all the joints solid so that the web of each block on top is locked and sitting on something solid....yes this means there will be 40% more mud used on the foundation but it means alot....to this day i never had a zig zag crack ....and ive seen foundations just 2 years old have zig zag cracks.... He explained that every day the wall expands and contracts....and that a 12 inch block has 3 webs that are 12 inches wide and 2 rails that are not even 32 inches long.....by using the wire every other course and filling the joints you are making the wall expand width ways more than length ways.... I have demoed old block built in this manor and often times blocks will stay together 4 blocks in a bunch because they are truly locked....other crappy block work falls apart one block at a time often by hand lol.... Also when your corners are solid you can pull a hard string without worry of shifting...this guy was so good he set his first course right in a wet footing by 1/8 to 1/4 inch.....and when he did striking he did it at the perfect time which varies on temperature....he was a master and his knowledge was so amazing....his price was always highest but everyone around knew his work was no joke....far better than superior walls
Thanks for tips. Question: I seen some retaining block walls without mortar/grout inbetween. Would this be ok if filling cavities with concrete and rebar every 32 inches or so?? It would save me some time and back lol
Pro tip for the trowel tap: Just tap the tip of the trowel on the board so you don't fling the mud with slapping the whole trowel. That way, it doesn't matter if you have a clear spot on the board or not to tap it, it won't fling any mud from the board. Other masons I've worked with, do that "slap" motion in the air and don't touch the mud board. And over years of masonry with that technique, their shoulders are messed up. So, just give the tip a tap.
I'm not building a wall and will never try, but I am trying to repair a block porch and no matter what I do the mortar mashes too far. I have no idea why walls don't compress the mortar, the higher you go, but you make it look so easy
First time I’ve ever seen someone do that and I have watched many many “lay block” videos and now I know why it looked sloppy when they tried to lay the cement on the block :).
I came here hoping to find an answer but shouldn’t there be rebar sticking up out of the footer? What keeps the blocks in place when pressure is applied?
Pro tip for block wall! 1 where are your starter bars in the footing? 2 Where was your horizontal bar, ie corner bars 3 get a decent level using that thing will help you keep your corners plumb
Is there concrete under them blocks? I have a addition bathroom I want to add block support to on one side. As of right now it’s being held up my massive wood logs. Can I just put the blocks on leveled graded dirt and do it as you are in the video?
This is just superb, been searching for "how far apart should floor joists be for a shed?" for a while now, and I think this has helped. Have you heard people talk about - Damkietor Nonpareil Dominion - (just google it ) ? It is an awesome exclusive guide for building better sheds and woodworking without the headache. Ive heard some incredible things about it and my colleague got cool results with it.
For some.reason I always thought that you needed to do a base poor for those hallow blocks. It's OK to lay block on regular level ground weather it's for a stem wall or building an addition?
@@PerkinsBuilderBrothers do you have to put rebar through the blocks or does it matter if you don't I know the rebar strengthens it but is it necessary
I just thumbs up’d Kevino1489 because I have the same question. I would also like to know why you aren’t using a concrete footer, is it necessary? I haven’t seen it done this way before. NO, I am absolutely not a mason, never been one but I would love to know more about it. I want to construct a generator shed from block work. I live in Northern Vermont, about 20 minutes from the Canadian border. The winter’s can get pretty cold, as a matter of fact, we got our first frost last night (30 October 2023). I was thinking about a minimum of a 4” slab with rebar assembled in 12” intersections, tied, and using rebar chairs to make sure the rebar is not sitting on the 1/2” to maybe 3/4” stone base🫣. I was thinking maybe the material the slab should be poured on might be 6” minimum thickness of stone with the stone extending out beyond the outer edge of the proposed slab by about 12” for stability 🤷. I would like to have the structure be something like 8’ x 12’ with the walls being 6’ in height, the roof would have a 5/12 pitch. From what I can see as I walk around in public, most people are under 6’ tall. I know, there are plenty of people that are taller, but I’m thinking about the majority. Besides, my thought process is the outside walls being 6’ with a 5/12 pitch, there should be plenty of headroom in the event we sell and move on. I’m literally keeping the “other” guy/gal in mind for this. The reason for the 8’ x 12’ is I figured I’d have plenty of room for anything generator related (a cabinet to store oil, filters, fuel, circuit breakers, etc.) As well I could put yard tools in there, wheelbarrow, rototiller etc. I also wanted to have plenty of room to be able to do some sort of sound proofing, I don’t really want to annoy any of my neighbors. I have watched quite a few videos but not many show how to reinforce the walls in detail with explanation. I know I’ve seen where people fill every cavity with mortar, I’ve seen sand with mortar only where there was vertical rebar, I’ve seen the vertical rebar as well as them putting rebar horizontally on top of every course between the mortar runs along the outer edge, as they go up. I figure some of these processes would be cost inefficient, especially the filling of all of the cavities, even if it’s just sand. Also, I’m not convinced of putting rebar horizontally in between any of the courses, it would seem to me to be not only a waste of many things, but I would think it would actually weaken each course seam in reference to any extreme horizontal forces. From what I understand you should only be putting 3/8” +/- of mortar along the edges. What happens if the walls encounter hurricane force winds, accidental vehicle or some other type of machinery encounter. Falling trees hitting it from the side. You never know what might happen. I’m pretty sure concrete and properly installed block walls have a job and are designed for a purpose. I would say they have incredible compressibility resistance, when paired with vertical rebar and filled with concrete or mortar, once cured would have a higher tension resistance as opposed to non reinforced. As far as the horizontal forces applied to a finished, cured block wall, whether or not it’s reinforced. I don’t really have a lot of faith in their horizontal resistance. The reason I say this is because I lived in a house with a concrete, reinforced block wall basement, I had to have 3 of those walls replaced, so we had the entire house raised and all 4 walls replaced. The walls were constructed in 1957, they bowed in slowly over the years, we moved in, in 1990 and they were already 3/4” to 1 1/4” in certain areas. It was the center of each wall that was bowed. The top and bottoms were still in place. We kept an eye on them for years, in 2015 they were about 4”+ in places, bowed out by then, they were starting to loosen, the upstairs walls were cracking everywhere. We had them replaced with solid reinforced concrete walls that same year. I don’t have a problem with block walls but I wouldn’t use them for a basement, but that’s just me. If I can get information about this from the different sources available and put it all together, it doesn’t really matter how long it takes, I could build a generator shed that would last a few lifetimes. I hate doing things three or four or more times. I try to study anything I can before taking on a project of which I have limited knowledge. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. I’m sure any advice you present would be appreciated and helpful to many viewers. I know it’s “just a generator shed” but I want it constructed properly, durable and it can have multi-task functions by anyone else in the future. IDK, maybe in 40 years or whatever when I’m dead and forgotten, someone else doesn’t want or need a generator building. Hence the reason for its proposed size, don’t want a generator? Fine, remove it, seal up the exhaust port, the fresh air intake and electrical conduits, there you go, it’s a sealed building. Too easy.😅 Everything I construct for myself is always completed with someone else in mind in the future, what do I think someone else would use this for? Maybe next month, next year or in 40 or more years. Before I start anything that may seem semi permanent, that’s when I plan everything in, it’s always too easy to construct something, it’s sometimes, difficult to impossible to add/change things after the stage is complete. Of course, I am aware it also depends on “what” that additional purpose to be built in or changes needed might be. Great video!👍 I actually got quite a bit out of it. Thank you 🙏. To the publisher, a lot of what is shared/written is not necessarily directed towards you or anyone else. It’s because many people are possibly going to read this and have comments or questions or 🤷. I’m simply trying to answer most of what I could think of that someone might say/ask. I apologize for the length. I actually changed this a few times to try to keep it as short as I thought it could be and still get everything I needed to ask, answering any questions that arise and trying to fill in any of the blanks I thought there might be. You and your family have a great day and stay safe. ☀️
With a tight string how do you prevent a gathering deviation, as a block might push on the string slightly and the next block and so on. 1/16" over many feet can add up. Love you vids, all the tips and tricks and your demeanor. Cheers from Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada.
so dumb question I think I know the answer but it will be good to hear. He has the foundation going w/ these blocks but then he switches to wood framing. Why? Is it purely cost driven? Cheaper materials and faster I'm assuming? If I didn't care about that I'm guessing I'd be better off keep going w/ the bricks right? Better sound proofing, better insulation etc?
I normally do overhead concrete repair and some curb and gutter and Foundation but I haven't did too much block work I have a guy that wants me to fill in a doorway on a existing block wall with new block hopefully I don't run into any issues
That slap with your trowel is not only to get it to stick it also gives you the consistent bead of mortar when you spread it properly, 3/8 or 1/2 '' if needed.
Hi Perkins, nice vid, direct n to the point. One of the things I`ve learned over the years is to have a good "Hoddy",...a good hod or mud mixer, it makes the brickys n blockys look good, and helps the job site work well together in that situation. I appreciate the vidz. USMC.
I worked for a family company, they were hard teachers and unforgiving sometimes but I want to apply again after quitting after 3 months, they once told me though that most people no call no show the next day they start. I don't want to give up on a possible career. Any advice ?
I want to add on to existing 5 foot wall with one more block. Each block is 4 inches thick and are hollow. Do I have to add rebar to the top and how do I do if they’re hollow? Thank you.
Using the line is called ranging your wall. Another tip is to try to find a metal mud board instead of plywood. The metal mud boards " road signs is what I use" want dry your mortar out as fast n it will Stat alot more workable.
Omg the slap, I think that may be the trick I've been missing! Always struggled with block, now i need to find a block job to try this out. Do yall use premix mortar or mix it yourself?
Why do some blocks have the groove in one side and a divided cross member? Is that do you can split it in half if needed? And if so, how do you split a concrete block for if you need half blocks?
Those are called “sash” block…. They are used at control (expansion) joints. There is a rubber insert that fits in the slots when you put 2 block back to back. The y can also be used at door jambs and window openings.
I am wanting to build a cordwood shed and needing a foundation of some sorts under my first row of logs and this looks like it might work. So what you are doing here is digging a what looks like a 18" trench and then are you putting the bottom row of cinder blocks directly onto the dirt or do you have a concrete footer under the bottom row of cnder blocks. I store my firewood on cinder blocks with the holes facing up and after a year or 2 they start sinking into the dirt so I am concerned if I do what you are doing that it might do the same thing. Please let me know what you are putting on top of those blocks.
I could use the line but there is no way i could do the atraight wall. I have a wall build already i like to pour concrete floor i wander whats the best way to conect the floor to the walls or it will glue itself once set?.its only 35sq meter house so it doesnt have to b strong btw.
Is it ok to put concrete blocks like this on a packed crushed gravel base as long as I coat the bottom of each block with mortar? I’ve read a lot about these mostly being installed on a poured concrete base.
Why is the poured concrete base beam...not washed off... before the blocks are set in mortar to the base? Some cement bonding to the base can't hurt the block wall strength...Right?
all GREAT tips especially setting the block as close to plumb and level as you can ...hardly any tapping being a good lead man keeps you working. block is fun until you get up to the ibeams and duct work and pipes LOL!
I want to have rebar go around the corner. I bought cinder blocks with the groove already cut out but I can't get the groove cut into the side of the corner block. Seems I would have to be a saw and special blade and I don't wanna spend all that money for a greenhouse I'm building with scrap materials.
Good job I watched this video, I was going to use a mixture of building sand and cement but now I know you just need to dig up some mud and slap it about a bit!
Excellent video . I enjoy your videos very much. You are a excellent builder, and a very generous person by helping the building trades and people interested on what skill it takes to build. Thank you . All the best to you and your crew.
Thinking about building a deer blind on my property with cinder blocks, sure beats the cost of $3K for a premade blind since I could do this myself cheaper.
I’m confused about the “Block Hole”. The block is hollow. The cells “holes” line up. Usually there is rebar coming out of the footing then you fill the wall with grout.
@@sandyramsdell601 Just watched the vídeo again and unserstood what you are explaining. The blocks where i live have holes in Just one side and the other side is cement. Maybe there are blocks like the ones in the vídeo for more reinforced applications .
Excellent tips. I've built some mediocre retaining walls at my home before. Now I can approach the next project with more confidence. Thank you for sharing your experience and expertise !
Read my comment about filling joints and corners and using wire....trust me this is average block work , theres no comparison to old school solid locks and corners block laying....its a dying art
We run blocks using a technique where we build a profile on each corner...it's very efficient, that way you can run out two walls 1 time in a day ...500 blocks ad more for 2 men a laborer ad a skilled Mason...
Bit late for your job, but for anyone else. Lay the blocks flat out on ground, allow for joints and mark all at once. For long sections you'll just have to work on the wall using your tape to measure to the string that's on slope.
So - the first row looks like it is directly on the dirt! How do you make it secure so it can't move?? It looks like a layer of mud was spread down first, correct? I am putting a short (2 block height only) wall directly on the dirt in my yard - but I should spread some mud first? should I let that dry some before setting any blocks down? Thanks!
They poured the footing. It's concrete under there with a "dusting" of the natural soil on top that stains it that color, I believe. I wondered that myself, when watching another video. But I saw the concrete underneath it.
![Oscar Maydon x Fuerza Regida - Tu Boda [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/_ymicn0_GYc/mqdefault.jpg)
My wrist learned real quick to slap the board too. When I see guys, usually younger, just jerk the trowel down I wonder how long they’ve been doing it for, or how their wrist will be able to keep doing it. When I’m checking how a lead is tailing I like to hold the string back about a 16th off the corner though. That way you get a true gauge. Wrapping it around the corner means you could be running slightly out and not see it because the string could still be tight against the block everywhere. Running your long level down on a 45 across all the steps is a good guage of quality too. It should evenly contact all the outermost corners. Keep up the good work.
great tips!
The man that taught me was the best block layer around....he showed me the real secret to laying block....NOW we were laying 12 inch block and he showed me to #1 only go up 3 courses in a day...#2 fill 3 cells at the corner with mud n slag....#3 shoot every 3rd course with a transit on the corners....
#4...wire every other layer.
#5 fill all the joints solid so that the web of each block on top is locked and sitting on something solid....yes this means there will be 40% more mud used on the foundation but it means alot....to this day i never had a zig zag crack ....and ive seen foundations just 2 years old have zig zag cracks....
He explained that every day the wall expands and contracts....and that a 12 inch block has 3 webs that are 12 inches wide and 2 rails that are not even 32 inches long.....by using the wire every other course and filling the joints you are making the wall expand width ways more than length ways....
I have demoed old block built in this manor and often times blocks will stay together 4 blocks in a bunch because they are truly locked....other crappy block work falls apart one block at a time often by hand lol....
Also when your corners are solid you can pull a hard string without worry of shifting...this guy was so good he set his first course right in a wet footing by 1/8 to 1/4 inch.....and when he did striking he did it at the perfect time which varies on temperature....he was a master and his knowledge was so amazing....his price was always highest but everyone around knew his work was no joke....far better than superior walls
Hi where are you based?
How much does he get per block
I love this
A video of this method would be PHENOMENAL and greatly appreciated
A video would be great mate
Its fun having you show us some real simple techniques
Thanks for tips. Question:
I seen some retaining block walls without mortar/grout inbetween. Would this be ok if filling cavities with concrete and rebar every 32 inches or so??
It would save me some time and back lol
Great tips. Just remember, the important thing is the corner goes up plumb... So make sure of that. Leveling the block is secondary.
The Gospel is 1 Corinthians 15:1-4
ruclips.net/video/lbb4xwYj19g/видео.html
Pro tip for the trowel tap: Just tap the tip of the trowel on the board so you don't fling the mud with slapping the whole trowel. That way, it doesn't matter if you have a clear spot on the board or not to tap it, it won't fling any mud from the board.
Other masons I've worked with, do that "slap" motion in the air and don't touch the mud board. And over years of masonry with that technique, their shoulders are messed up. So, just give the tip a tap.
The Gospel is 1 Corinthians 15:1-4
👇
ruclips.net/video/lbb4xwYj19g/видео.html🕊🕊
My shoulder is fine
We don't tap/slap, we just give it 1 shake & it stays on just fine
Lol flicking your trowel does your shoulder in? Come and be a hod carrier in the uk and you
Wouldn’t last a month
The shoulders are messed up from laying block for 40 years lol
I'm not building a wall and will never try, but I am trying to repair a block porch and no matter what I do the mortar mashes too far. I have no idea why walls don't compress the mortar, the higher you go, but you make it look so easy
What do you use as your mud for this kind of blocking? Mortar or mason mix?
First time I’ve ever seen someone do that and I have watched many many “lay block” videos and now I know why it looked sloppy when they tried to lay the cement on the block :).
Haha don't need to slap the dam board. Most contractors work out of mortar pans. Just have to shake it onto the trowel to lock it on.
@@crasherxtreme flip it like a pancake?
Goodie, nice trick
I always had trouble for the mud to stay on,thank so much
My last name is Perkins, i’m a University of Cincinnati student, and i found this super helpful in building my first retaining wall. Small world!
This reminds me when I was a technical skills teacher in the high school in Ghana 1992.Thank you sir
Is it ever common practice to fill the voids? Once the wall is fully built? (like pour in wet concrete)
I done block not a lot but some not like expert stuff. This videos of yours are very helpful.
ruclips.net/video/lyk50gFS2rY/видео.html
I came here hoping to find an answer but shouldn’t there be rebar sticking up out of the footer? What keeps the blocks in place when pressure is applied?
Pro tip for block wall!
1 where are your starter bars in the footing?
2 Where was your horizontal bar, ie corner bars
3 get a decent level using that thing will help you keep your corners plumb
Yes, those were great tips. I had never thought of that before course. I’ll never be able to lay block
Is there concrete under them blocks? I have a addition bathroom I want to add block support to on one side. As of right now it’s being held up my massive wood logs. Can I just put the blocks on leveled graded dirt and do it as you are in the video?
Mind-reader. Your bonus tip was my remaining question. The X and Y and finally the Z axis. thanks.
Exactly what I was looking for ....you and youtube are awesome...good stuff
Thanks, I’m a beginner and going to try a simple project and this is really helpful.
This is just superb, been searching for "how far apart should floor joists be for a shed?" for a while now, and I think this has helped. Have you heard people talk about - Damkietor Nonpareil Dominion - (just google it ) ? It is an awesome exclusive guide for building better sheds and woodworking without the headache. Ive heard some incredible things about it and my colleague got cool results with it.
For some.reason I always thought that you needed to do a base poor for those hallow blocks. It's OK to lay block on regular level ground weather it's for a stem wall or building an addition?
Are those blocks being laid right on the ground?
good tips thank you. did you lay those on concrete or just solid ground?
What do you put at the bottom of the first layer of blocks? Can you lay them directly on the dirt?
No iron rods/bars & mixed cement with sand & gravel poured inside the blocks to make it durable to withstand storm or earthquakes?
I love the quick, simple, informative videos. I am always looking forward to the next one! Keep up the great work!
Thanks.. much appreciated
@@PerkinsBuilderBrothers do you have to put rebar through the blocks or does it matter if you don't I know the rebar strengthens it but is it necessary
@@kevino1489
.
.
The Gospel is 1 Corinthians 15:1-4
👇
ruclips.net/video/lbb4xwYj19g/видео.html🕊🕊
I just thumbs up’d Kevino1489 because I have the same question. I would also like to know why you aren’t using a concrete footer, is it necessary? I haven’t seen it done this way before. NO, I am absolutely not a mason, never been one but I would love to know more about it. I want to construct a generator shed from block work. I live in Northern Vermont, about 20 minutes from the Canadian border. The winter’s can get pretty cold, as a matter of fact, we got our first frost last night (30 October 2023). I was thinking about a minimum of a 4” slab with rebar assembled in 12” intersections, tied, and using rebar chairs to make sure the rebar is not sitting on the 1/2” to maybe 3/4” stone base🫣. I was thinking maybe the material the slab should be poured on might be 6” minimum thickness of stone with the stone extending out beyond the outer edge of the proposed slab by about 12” for stability 🤷.
I would like to have the structure be something like 8’ x 12’ with the walls being 6’ in height, the roof would have a 5/12 pitch. From what I can see as I walk around in public, most people are under 6’ tall. I know, there are plenty of people that are taller, but I’m thinking about the majority. Besides, my thought process is the outside walls being 6’ with a 5/12 pitch, there should be plenty of headroom in the event we sell and move on. I’m literally keeping the “other” guy/gal in mind for this. The reason for the 8’ x 12’ is I figured I’d have plenty of room for anything generator related (a cabinet to store oil, filters, fuel, circuit breakers, etc.)
As well I could put yard tools in there, wheelbarrow, rototiller etc.
I also wanted to have plenty of room to be able to do some sort of sound proofing, I don’t really want to annoy any of my neighbors.
I have watched quite a few videos but not many show how to reinforce the walls in detail with explanation. I know I’ve seen where people fill every cavity with mortar, I’ve seen sand with mortar only where there was vertical rebar, I’ve seen the vertical rebar as well as them putting rebar horizontally on top of every course between the mortar runs along the outer edge, as they go up.
I figure some of these processes would be cost inefficient, especially the filling of all of the cavities, even if it’s just sand. Also, I’m not convinced of putting rebar horizontally in between any of the courses, it would seem to me to be not only a waste of many things, but I would think it would actually weaken each course seam in reference to any extreme horizontal forces. From what I understand you should only be putting 3/8” +/- of mortar along the edges. What happens if the walls encounter hurricane force winds, accidental vehicle or some other type of machinery encounter. Falling trees hitting it from the side. You never know what might happen.
I’m pretty sure concrete and properly installed block walls have a job and are designed for a purpose. I would say they have incredible compressibility resistance, when paired with vertical rebar and filled with concrete or mortar, once cured would have a higher tension resistance as opposed to non reinforced. As far as the horizontal forces applied to a finished, cured block wall, whether or not it’s reinforced. I don’t really have a lot of faith in their horizontal resistance.
The reason I say this is because I lived in a house with a concrete, reinforced block wall basement, I had to have 3 of those walls replaced, so we had the entire house raised and all 4 walls replaced. The walls were constructed in 1957, they bowed in slowly over the years, we moved in, in 1990 and they were already 3/4” to 1 1/4” in certain areas. It was the center of each wall that was bowed. The top and bottoms were still in place. We kept an eye on them for years, in 2015 they were about 4”+ in places, bowed out by then, they were starting to loosen, the upstairs walls were cracking everywhere. We had them replaced with solid reinforced concrete walls that same year.
I don’t have a problem with block walls but I wouldn’t use them for a basement, but that’s just me.
If I can get information about this from the different sources available and put it all together, it doesn’t really matter how long it takes, I could build a generator shed that would last a few lifetimes. I hate doing things three or four or more times.
I try to study anything I can before taking on a project of which I have limited knowledge. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. I’m sure any advice you present would be appreciated and helpful to many viewers.
I know it’s “just a generator shed” but I want it constructed properly, durable and it can have multi-task functions by anyone else in the future. IDK, maybe in 40 years or whatever when I’m dead and forgotten, someone else doesn’t want or need a generator building.
Hence the reason for its proposed size, don’t want a generator? Fine, remove it, seal up the exhaust port, the fresh air intake and electrical conduits, there you go, it’s a sealed building. Too easy.😅
Everything I construct for myself is always completed with someone else in mind in the future, what do I think someone else would use this for? Maybe next month, next year or in 40 or more years.
Before I start anything that may seem semi permanent, that’s when I plan everything in, it’s always too easy to construct something, it’s sometimes, difficult to impossible to add/change things after the stage is complete. Of course, I am aware it also depends on “what” that additional purpose to be built in or changes needed might be.
Great video!👍 I actually got quite a bit out of it. Thank you 🙏.
To the publisher, a lot of what is shared/written is not necessarily directed towards you or anyone else. It’s because many people are possibly going to read this and have comments or questions or 🤷.
I’m simply trying to answer most of what I could think of that someone might say/ask.
I apologize for the length. I actually changed this a few times to try to keep it as short as I thought it could be and still get everything I needed to ask, answering any questions that arise and trying to fill in any of the blanks I thought there might be.
You and your family have a great day and stay safe. ☀️
With a tight string how do you prevent a gathering deviation, as a block might push on the string slightly and the next block and so on. 1/16" over many feet can add up. Love you vids, all the tips and tricks and your demeanor. Cheers from Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada.
I’m a noob, and ran into this as well. Just got to get the block right up to it without pushing it
Set your line about one centimeter above the block height with mortar added. Simple, you never have this problem again
Great tips brother. You're just a chip off the old concrete block! Thanks for the video
so dumb question I think I know the answer but it will be good to hear. He has the foundation going w/ these blocks but then he switches to wood framing. Why? Is it purely cost driven? Cheaper materials and faster I'm assuming? If I didn't care about that I'm guessing I'd be better off keep going w/ the bricks right? Better sound proofing, better insulation etc?
Good work, but I have a question, how thick is the wall of this block and what are the sizes of the block
Great tips mate. thanks. Any tip for straight thread line. I can't do it.
I normally do overhead concrete repair and some curb and gutter and Foundation but I haven't did too much block work I have a guy that wants me to fill in a doorway on a existing block wall with new block hopefully I don't run into any issues
Do you set the block directly on the dirt rather than on a foundation first?
That slap with your trowel is not only to get it to stick it also gives you the consistent bead of mortar when you spread it properly, 3/8 or 1/2 '' if needed.
Hi Perkins, nice vid, direct n to the point. One of the things I`ve learned over the years is to have a good "Hoddy",...a good hod or mud mixer, it makes the brickys n blockys look good, and helps the job site work well together in that situation.
I appreciate the vidz.
USMC.
Block layout 8 inches and you did it? Amazing great job
I worked for a family company, they were hard teachers and unforgiving sometimes but I want to apply again after quitting after 3 months, they once told me though that most people no call no show the next day they start. I don't want to give up on a possible career. Any advice ?
For load bearing house construction which blocks to be use solid block or hollow block?
I want to add on to existing 5 foot wall with one more block. Each block is 4 inches thick and are hollow. Do I have to add rebar to the top and how do I do if they’re hollow? Thank you.
Using the line is called ranging your wall. Another tip is to try to find a metal mud board instead of plywood. The metal mud boards " road signs is what I use" want dry your mortar out as fast n it will Stat alot more workable.
Good tips but how you build the concrete foundation for the blocks without framing the base?
Very good video 4ft level 2 ft level come in very handy great job good work love the video
Omg the slap, I think that may be the trick I've been missing! Always struggled with block, now i need to find a block job to try this out. Do yall use premix mortar or mix it yourself?
Why do some blocks have the groove in one side and a divided cross member? Is that do you can split it in half if needed? And if so, how do you split a concrete block for if you need half blocks?
Those are called “sash” block…. They are used at control (expansion) joints. There is a rubber insert that fits in the slots when you put 2 block back to back. The y can also be used at door jambs and window openings.
Thank you so much for sharing. Very helpful 🙏💖💞
I am wanting to build a cordwood shed and needing a foundation of some sorts under my first row of logs and this looks like it might work. So what you are doing here is digging a what looks like a 18" trench and then are you putting the bottom row of cinder blocks directly onto the dirt or do you have a concrete footer under the bottom row of cnder blocks. I store my firewood on cinder blocks with the holes facing up and after a year or 2 they start sinking into the dirt so I am concerned if I do what you are doing that it might do the same thing. Please let me know what you are putting on top of those blocks.
Bro, in less than a minute you gave me the best tip ever!
Torpedo level has a eight inch length. To check course heights. Set line on corner first course with a line block. Range line will be set in place.
I could use the line but there is no way i could do the atraight wall.
I have a wall build already i like to pour concrete floor i wander whats the best way to conect the floor to the walls or it will glue itself once set?.its only 35sq meter house so it doesnt have to b strong btw.
Is it ok to put concrete blocks like this on a packed crushed gravel base as long as I coat the bottom of each block with mortar? I’ve read a lot about these mostly being installed on a poured concrete base.
Why is the poured concrete base beam...not washed off... before the blocks are set in mortar to the base?
Some cement bonding to the base can't hurt the block wall strength...Right?
Is rules same if you use insulator block? I hear they are great use build houses colder areas
all GREAT tips especially setting the block as close to plumb and level as you can ...hardly any tapping being a good lead man keeps you working. block is fun until you get up to the ibeams and duct work and pipes LOL!
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I want to have rebar go around the corner. I bought cinder blocks with the groove already cut out but I can't get the groove cut into the side of the corner block. Seems I would have to be a saw and special blade and I don't wanna spend all that money for a greenhouse I'm building with scrap materials.
Good job enjoyed learning thanks
Very nice your work👍
Good job I watched this video, I was going to use a mixture of building sand and cement but now I know you just need to dig up some mud and slap it about a bit!
Please come and check out this video ruclips.net/video/NgcQoOkfxVg/видео.html
Buddy that was amazing! Thank you!!
Question; how do I lay block on a slope?
Awesome tips
Great work,thanks for sharing bro
Great video, you should do some more on building a block stem wall.
What do you do if the block row is NOT at the correct height of 8”? Like what if the block needs to come up?
You gotta pick up and reapply mortar.
Good tips. Why no batter boards? They give you a lot of confidence that you're staying on the right track.
ruclips.net/video/lyk50gFS2rY/видео.html
Excellent video . I enjoy your videos very much. You are a excellent builder, and a very generous person by helping the building trades and people interested on what skill it takes to build. Thank you . All the best to you and your crew.
The Gospel is 1 Corinthians 15:1-4
👇
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Nice work n good tips
Expert tip! Use steel corner poles and save time!
Thanks for the tips.
Awesome tips. Really enjoy your channel from Canada.
ruclips.net/video/lyk50gFS2rY/видео.html
Thinking about building a deer blind on my property with cinder blocks, sure beats the cost of $3K for a premade blind since I could do this myself cheaper.
👍 I do a lot of things myself for that reason
In Russia we have blocks with flat surface on one side, so it needs to put mud on a flat side and lay next block holes down
Excellent video great information 👍
Hello, where I live I see a lot of people facing the block hole down instead of up like yours in the video, do you know why is this done this way?
I’m confused about the “Block Hole”. The block is hollow. The cells “holes” line up. Usually there is rebar coming out of the footing then you fill the wall with grout.
@@sandyramsdell601 Just watched the vídeo again and unserstood what you are explaining. The blocks where i live have holes in Just one side and the other side is cement. Maybe there are blocks like the ones in the vídeo for more reinforced applications .
My block always sinks, it's a pain. Maybe I need my mix drier. Any tips?
What kind of mortar are you using? Quikrete Type S?
Thank you bro for imparting your knowledge in hollow blocks foundation it is really helping for me
Bellend England
great tips thanks a lot, very useful
I always learn something new watching your guys channel.
Kcz d
Insano xmnxx
Excellent tips. I've built some mediocre retaining walls at my home before. Now I can approach the next project with more confidence. Thank you for sharing your experience and expertise !
Read my comment about filling joints and corners and using wire....trust me this is average block work , theres no comparison to old school solid locks and corners block laying....its a dying art
Appreciate the tips. ✅
Perfect trade to get into Im collecting tools ASAP 🤩
Taking a masonry class at high school currently and plan to make a carrier out of this trade.
Good stuff. The slap is key
We run blocks using a technique where we build a profile on each corner...it's very efficient, that way you can run out two walls 1 time in a day ...500 blocks ad more for 2 men a laborer ad a skilled Mason...
Great tutorial
How deep and wide does the foundation need to be for a 6ft wall , will it need hardcore, how far apart should the piers be?
Hi what can I expect to pay a Mason to build a garage foundation that measures 40 x 50? Up in the northeast NY.
Thanks...
In foundation must have ring beam or I can build without
Thanks that worked very well - I appreciate the advice it helped me immensely
How long does it take to become decent at laying block?
Thank u so much, that really helped alot
No 16inch concrete footing under the block??
Wow,! Slap trick!, amazing
Hey! I wanna make a tapered wall with concrete blocks. Any tips for the cuts and alignment of the angled side?
Bit late for your job, but for anyone else. Lay the blocks flat out on ground, allow for joints and mark all at once.
For long sections you'll just have to work on the wall using your tape to measure to the string that's on slope.
Magic. Thank you.
Question why in Mexico do they put concrete towers in the corners and openings?
Hi, am from vanuatu . where I can find machine block
So - the first row looks like it is directly on the dirt! How do you make it secure so it can't move?? It looks like a layer of mud was spread down first, correct? I am putting a short (2 block height only) wall directly on the dirt in my yard - but I should spread some mud first? should I let that dry some before setting any blocks down? Thanks!
They poured the footing. It's concrete under there with a "dusting" of the natural soil on top that stains it that color, I believe. I wondered that myself, when watching another video. But I saw the concrete underneath it.
Nice tip bro I'm from Fiji islands
The weight of the block normally squeeze some of the mortar out of place. Is their a recommended height for mortar between blocks. Also at sides.
Head joints and bed joints are to be 3/8” +/- 1/4”. Initial bed joints (first joint off footing) are 3/4” but not less than 1/4”.