Nespresso Aeroccino Not heating Milk Acid Etch Blown Heating Element Repair
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- Опубликовано: 24 авг 2024
- Many people have contacted me and asked if a blown heating element can be repaired on the older versions that were not fitted with a thermal fuse. Yes it can!!!
Thanks so much for the help. I just wanted to say that I was able to make this repair using armour etch. It is for glass etching. it’s far cheaper and easier to source than hydroflouric acid. I followed all other steps the same as shown. With the glass etching paste in place of the acid. With 3 etchings for 8 minutes each I got great continuity without damaging the element. Good luck to all. Cheers
Great job and good tip re the etching
Tried repairing one of these for a friend/neighbour today, following your instructions, but have had to admit defeat. Managed to get the guts out but a test meter showed continuity through the fusible link, so that wasn't the answer, unfortunately. Couldn't see anything else wrong but can only conclude that one of the low voltage components on the board must have failed. All other connections seemed sound and when I applied power, nada, so off to the small appliances recycling at the tip it goes. Neighbour has bought a new frother from you know where for 40 quid and she is thrilled with it.
If you have no signs of life - Check the tact switch is switching. I've seen a few where they click but don't complete the circuit. Also check the contacts between the base power socket and the controller are good. If the unit gets bumped then they can lose contact. usually you can see some signs of arcing. Also check the wire wound resistor in series with the mains rectifier. It is usually around 25 ohms. If it has blown open circuit then you need to change (ensure it a fusible protection type) and you must change the Switch mode offline controller IC.
@@razenby thanks for troubling to reply - appreciated. The frother was dropped into small appliances skip at our local tip this morning. Maybe another time and I might even get to effect your repair. Keep up the good work, which is always enjoyable to watch.
After watching the other video, I was about to ask if you might know what causes the heating element to fail.. then I found you already have this video! Great work!
Bad thermal modelling in the design. Lack of testing by the manufacturer, They don't like 240V. As you know the power dissipation increases as a square of the voltage. If you forget to put the milk in then the element heats up very fast before the thermistor does so the micro controller has no idea what is going off and doesn't kill the element power until it way too late. II managed a team of electronic design engineers for 20 years and if there isn't someone around who is experienced and in charge to give the engineers a slap then all sorts of crap gets manufactured. They may be very clever but a lot of them a re pretty stupid when it comes to testing and reliability.
Brilliant, your a man after my own heart because I hate throwing anything away without trying to fix it first , though mine is mechanically items,😀😀
Thanks. As well as the cost it is a burden on the planet.
Hi, really enjoyed your video and creative repair of the milk frothed but how do you check the thyristor and where do I get a replacement thermocouple?
Thanks for the videos which are great.
Thanks for watching. The parts are available on Aliexpress.com
Hi there - I have exactly the same Nespresso Aeroccino as this one - with no thermal fuse in the red wire. My problem is that when I press the ON?OFF button to heat the milk the spinner rotes a few degrees and stops - and the RED heating light in the switch either flashes momentarily or remains ON - but no spinning takes place. I've tested the motor with a small DC battery and it spins - so it's not the motor. Furthermore the thermal fuse on the heating element is intact.
Can you offer any advice please ? I could upload a picture of the PC board. Thanks - Leon
Check the mains connection spring contacts between the base and teh circuit board are good. Check motor contacts are making good connection. Otherwise you have a problem with the thermistor or the off-line power chip. Likely the low voltage DC supply to the micro is dropping out once the motor load hits it. .i.e. It is unable to supply the required current. Check the electrolytic capacitors with a multimeter with capacitance range.
@@razenby Thanks for making the effort to reply....thats electronically way above my head....I've given up...now passed to Nespresso for recycling...(not sure if they do the recycling bit - hopefully it doesn't go straight into the landfill). Cheers..
Brilliant video. However, where do you get hold of Hydrofluoric acid, Solder paste and Kapton tape to do this repair? The cost of these items exceeds the cost of buying a new one! You only need tiny quantities and would likely never use them again.
Easy, HF acid id in windscreen etching kits. Enough to do 10 units, Kapton is $2 a roll on AliExpress.com. Flux is optional.
My PC board looks identical to the one in your video.
Good to know..
@@razenby do you have any ideas about how to fix it please - what could be the reason it won't spin?...I'm NOT an electronics boffin...:)
Hey, I couldn't find the silver conductive paint anywhere. Could you please add a link to purchase it? Thank you
See www.ebay.co.uk/itm/325205399722?hash=item4bb7c098aa:g:5UUAAOSwWf1gU1IY&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4FxYHClCrLQmWPA5OVt1QzkMx6zgVD8bs8rjryOVR1ZeXlLI5Hp4Yjm70vgNemDbv7HKFmeB%2BtFdC1L4adeFdMKcrO9dkI4%2FR%2BuAEIPkKfi1CJWa5GU5FkwBSxBI%2BhsG5tZ%2FMmUAMjdmskwLOvEVWqKAuphGhLTZIAd38%2BM11DW5KaL6KuPZfFQxcYyCfEhpPcOKpYkBt367nKsuCOwWVDpwezbLU7Gx5LRnskZqotFOpLKnfrnorFVtqDzPFn770obkCdSieEicUxTW09WI1vMJKhKYcqR5F6HsIZ6HoqJY%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR_jP-KPdYg
You can use glass etching paste instead of liquid acid. Also conductive adhesive instead of solder paste. Why don't they just supply the heating plate as a spare would make life a lot easier!!
It is a poorly designed product that does not work well on UK mains. due to the tolerance on the mains voltage they run about 75 to 100W above the power rating on the label.
Hi great videos about the nespresso. I have similar problem but I don’t have a fuse and my printed board seems ok. I have continuity . What else could be wrong? I could send photo if that would help you help me….
Measure the resistance of the printed element. The spring contacts between the base mains supply and the contacts pressing on the element often have problems. Check to see if you can see any evidence of sparking on the contacts.
Very good and thorough explanation. Now I don't know what an "older" model of 3192 is in relation to the one you have been working on the the video. Mine has the simple base of Aero 3 but the body looks like the Aero 4 (has a black handle). There is no other way to work the machine other than just heating the milk with the pushbutton. Unfortunately there is no red wire going around the motor, so I don't know if mine is younger or older than yours or if it is possible to somehow attach a thermal fuse. My guess is that even the circuit board and components might differ. The my circuit board has the following markings: WTK-9451, BOOM02, 2002-04-14 on one side and RU (in reversed) BMX 09.28, 940-0, BMX-01, E226252 on the other side. The heating board has the same layout as in your video. But instead of two faulty patches, mine has three. I could send photos, if needed.
I am not familiar with that variant. It is a very marginal design to be sure. I don't really rate Nespresso as a manufacturer. The last time I checked their coffee capsules still cant be recycled. That is why we use loose ground coffee now.
@@razenby Thanks for the reply. I couldn't figure out how to repair the unit, so I gave it to be recycled.
Bonjour, j'ai un mousseur à lait, il fonctionne pour tourner lumiere bleue, mais quand vient le temps de chauffer, la lumière rouge ne fait que clignoter.pouvez-vous me donner une piste?
L'élément chauffant est probablement devenu circuit ouvert. Il devrait mesurer environ 25 à 35 ohms. Vérifiez cependant les contacts à ressort et les connexions à l'élément chauffant car parfois la tension du ressort de contact est faible. La meilleure chose à faire est d'ouvrir l'appareil et de tout inspecter très soigneusement pour détecter les brûlures, les composants brûlés et les signes d'étincelles. Bonne chance!!
Hi! I loved your video very much and can’t wait to try to fix my aeroccino’s heating system. My only problem is I can’t seem to find those exact 3amp fuses. On Amazon I found glass fuses, do you think those could work? Or do you have any suggestions as to where I could look for other fuses (I live in Germany so any store that does EU-wide shipping should work)? Thank you so much in advance!
Have a look on www.lcsc.com or www.aliexpress.com
Hi, I have this model and this problem. I had seen your video to fix the later model but despaired of a fix for mine, although not enough to junk it evIdently. In and idle moment today I searched again and found this vIdeo; a brilliant fix! I have the skills to do this myself but lack the extra chemicals etc that you use and are not in the fuse repair kit on eBay. Happy to pay extra and to add the fuse enhancement too if you can post a link. Thanks very much.
I realised that I couldn't sell HF on eBay. I have done quite a few and need to load an updated video on RUclips. The new process uses a much better conductive epoxy. It is a bit of a duff product. I bought two Silvercrest milk frothers from Lidl for £20 each. One was spare and the other is used by everyone at the office. This was two years ago and it is used at least 10 times per day. The spare is still in the cupboard.
Thanks for the video. Very helpfull.
How are you so indifferent working with the HF? I read some horrifying stories about this stuff...
Is there any other way to take the glass off? Thank you.
HF isn't that bad on the skin. It seems much worse to us as it reacts with normal glass. Don't get me wrong it isn't pleasant but of the common acids the one your should worry about is sulphuric acid. That is nasty. nitric is very unpleasant, hydrochloric is annoying. Don't go anywhere near piranha solution!!! You can buy the HF over the counter in the windows etching kits used for marking car windows or from the craft centre to etch decorative glass. Wear eye protection , wear gloves, have some bicarb spray around (or similar). There are other acids that will etch glass but you don't want to be around those as they are very highly reactive (nasty).
Hi there, great videos, thank you! Unfortunately I have followed your vids and the machine is still not heating. The thermal fuse has continuity and the resistance across the heater pad terminals is 106.6 ohms at room temp. The motor and frother works fine but just no heat. I have also checked the heating thermistor which presses on the heater element and recorded 128ohms at room temperature.... Any ideas would be greatly appreciated..... I'm thinking the pcb is at fault?? Cheers in advance
That thermistor value seems very low. What is the resistance of the thin-film printed heating element?
@@razenby Hi there, thanks so much for the message, much appreciated. I think it was 106.6 ohms at room temp (from my original post). Is that the measurement you were after? Thuse measurement was taken at the points where the 2 sprung terminals touch the central pads connected to the printed heater element... Thanks again for you guidance. Cheers, Ed
Can you please give me a link for a etch repair kit
You can buy the glass etching solution in Hobby craft.
hi there! any chance you are still selling repair kits for this fault on ebay? can you send a link?
Not for a while, sorry. I have since bought an Ambiano frother. It is altogether a much superior and reliable product and doesn't scorch the milk the base.
I have the same problem... Why does the motor have a vent allowing heat to damage the heating coil? This seems like a design flaw.
I am not sure .. I don't believe the motor doesn't damage the coil.
@@razenby @Magic Smoke Having taken it apart (thanks to your other video)... and looking at the motor part... it's encased in plastic - except one bit (furthest away from the circuit board) which has a hole... and (on mine) is discoloured... the hole lines up with the melted part of the heating element which would be above it... which makes me suspiciously that heat from the motor has damaged it over time...
can send you some photos?
@@benmonson8655 You are right, the heat from the motor damages the coil at that spot over time.
Appreciate your reply. How do you mean 'flux optional' surely you need solder paste to do the repair? Here in South Africa I can almost buy a new Aeroccino 3 for the combined price of the smallest quantities of the materials required to do the repair - and it may not work! However, I would like to try it and will look for an electrician who might have Kapton and solder paste.
Solder or solder paste. I never tried doing it with just the core flux in the solder wire. The conductive adhesive is a few dollars a tube on Aliexpress.com
Hello, are you still selling the kits as mine is in need of repair. Many thanks. Brilliant video, and I'm hoping I get to try repair mine
Just seen you stopped selling on ebay, any chance you have a set available and I can just pay with PP? Take care
No, sorry. I was selling on eBay but there are too many thick people who bought it thinking it was panacea that claimed it wasn't as described because their machine still didn't work at which point eBay would immediately refund the money without insisting that the components be returned.
@Magic Smoke thanks no worries. Will try source the parts
Hi... How are you.. I have the same machine with the same problem.. I tried to buy the HF acid but I coundnt.. Not allowed in my country... Is there an alternative acid or metal that I can use instead of the HF acid... Thank you sir
I don't know of another acid that will work. I have tried other ways but the coating is hard and the conductive ink of the element is soft. Glass etching kits from craft shops for decorative glass or window etching kits that enable you to etch the registration number of the car onto the windows may have the acid you need included in the kit.
How do we access the repair kit and or the fuse? We're in Toronto, Ontario. Canada. Please advise. Thanks!
No good deed goes unpunished. I got fed up with Bay refunding people because the problem wasn't fixed. Clearly the kit will only repair a unit that has overheated. eBay are trying to emulate the level of customer service that you get on Amazon at the cost of the supplier. I'll scout around and see if I can find a couple. email support@invebo.com
Did you fish out that tail wire you snipped off the 3amp fuse? It looked precariously close to the 240v terminals and motor wires in the base. It was still visible at 40:29 when you performed final assembly.
Do you think an abrasive wheel on a dremel might get you through the glass protective coating, rather than using acid?
Good spot thanks. The Aeroccino has been in is use every day for a week. The tail was still there - I have removed it now! I can't see down the from above when filming. I considered this for a while but concluded the etch process would be much more likely to succeed. I could be wrong. I tried a abrade the lacquer away with wet and dry paper and my limited skills working from 2500 grit downwards but the glaze is so hard and the ink so soft that I couldn't get it to work. If you have a go then let me know.
@@razenby Hi have attempted the dremel method and using wireglue www.wireglue.us/ but not getting the conductivity sufficient to keep the circuit for more than 10seconds, operates without the heater working. Have not been achieve to achieve 107 ohms conductivity. Maybe acid etch is only way to go. Is the glue you are using significantly different ?
So the kapton tape is thermally insulating but you wrap it round the thermal fuse.??
It is only microns thick.
Update... I have Hydrochloric acid can I use it insited of HF acid... Thx
Yes it will wok. Do it cold though. 10% strength should do it,
Could you use a circuit scribe conductive ink pen to repair the damaged element?
I am not sure. Providing is connects the tracks with a low resistance it is worth a try. The later ones I repaired I used conductive silver loaded epoxy rather than the paste. I had the epoxy for another job,
Hi thanks for this. I’ve got a couple of these that are running cold so am going to have a go. Only problem is can’t seem to source the HF acid. Any suggestions please? Thanks Paul
I can send you a few Ml in a heat sealed pipette if you want to try. I have some much better conductive epoxy too.
@@razenby hi that would be great I’ve emailed you so if you can respond with details that would be great - Paul
I lost my aerochino power base, went to the company to buy spare part but they don't sell it separately..do you have any idea how to operate the aerochino without the power base?
Should be loads for sale on eBay or put a shout out on social media.
I have a question, Does this cools down the milk? If yes then how. I can't see any mechanism to cool the milk?
Hi this does not cool milk. The 2 settings are heat and froth (red) or just froth (blue).
NO it is just a heater and frothier. No refrigeration function.
Hi I have a problem with the element on my milker. Is there anyway I can send you a picture so you could advise me as to what you think. Thanks regards Chris
ark.mail@gmx.com
Can you please send me a kit to do the same repair please
Hello, I’ve never written a comment on RUclips before, but I couldn’t find a way to contact you privately. I found your video because our beloved aerocinno no longer heats up! I don’t know what I expected I’d find but I certainly don’t have any of your tools or knowledge to fix it myself. Any chance you’re up for another one in the post? We’re in London. Thank you for your interesting video.
I can have a quick look at it. Ark.mail@gmx.com
Hi there, I wrote you a couple of weeks ago but never heard back...
@@caryperkins2283 Look above I answered 3 weeks ago.
I emailed you at that email, did you get it?
I just sent you one more
The milk is frothing but not heating is it worth fixing? It resembles a similar problem to what you encounter on your repair. Thanking you in anticipation Gordon
It is probably the fuse on the element blown... You can take it apart and check that the contacts that power the thick-film heating element are making contact. Usually you can see some pitting or burn where they have been arcing. If the element measures about 10 to 25 ohms (depending on supply voltage) it could be the relay in the controller has failed. If yo inspect the element you might see that the area that has no glaze over it has burned out. See etching repair video.
@@razenby Thank you this is most helpful at 76 yrs I will have to get my son to do it for me shake in right hand does not help.Ps your videos are so precise and easy to follow keep up the good work GRBond
@@gordonrankinbond116 Thanks for the comment. Appreciated.
I also have a problem with a very similar Aeroccino unit that runs for some time then turns itself off before frothing. Do you think this could be a problem caused by a faulty fuse?
No. Does the motor whirr OK? Is the milk stone cold when it stops to early?
Yes, the motor does run and the unit heats but never completing the cycle resulting it to stop and the start button to flash.
Hi there, do you still sell the thermal fuses on ebay? May I please have the link to the ebay store?
Sorry , no I don't. I got fed up with eBay summarily refunding customers without asking for return of the parts for dumb customers who bought the wrong thing. No good deed goes unpunished!!
Balls. Mine died in the same way but I recycled it.
RIP Aeroccino.
Hey there. Please can you share a link to your eBay listing?
Hello, I had to stop selling on eBay as it it is against the regulations to ship HF in the post. Only a few couriers will transport it.
Mine just packed in can I buy the wee fuse sst up of you
Set up
They are listed on eBay. My office ships them out.
Hi, could you tell me how I get a kit please.
They are for sale on eBay UK.
@@razenby hi there what name to you go under on eBay? I found a couple of listings but want to make sure I choose the right one!
@@musagarba9503 I just can't find the listing either!☹️
Hi. Keen to buy a kit but like JP Norton below, I need everything. Also, I couldn't find you on E-Bay??
Yes listed on eBay.
what is your ebay name please
Unfortunately I don't sell on eBay any more as idiots would buy the kit to fix problems unrelated to the thermal fuse and then complain to eBay and eBay would then summarily refund them without requiring the part to be returned. As they say no good deed goes unpunished..... BTW I play the harmonica every day . Which harmonica would you recommend.? I have a very old one that is my goto Harm for a performance but that is now very tatty. The replacements that I have purchased are unsatisfactory - too much puff and no note until blown hard. Thanks.
@@razenby Hi, Thanks for the info and I understand completely. Harp player eh! I have been playing for a good few years and have gotten pretty good tone and I am happy to give it all away you just have to ask the right questions. So ask away. I have a you tube site called Oxharp so check it out. I did all the videos over the years and it goes back to 2007. I need to know your direction to advise you on a harp. As a beginner depends what key you want but I would get a hohner rocket or hohner special 20 in the key of c. Plastic body air tight ish and easy on the mouth. Happy to help. Russ
Hi. Can I purchase a repair kit with acid and fuse direct from you ?
Thanks to eBay scammers forcing you to not sell anymore 😩😩