How to: LS1 LQ4 4.8 5.3 6.0 Harmonic Balancer Installation
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- Опубликовано: 6 ноя 2018
- Installing an LS style balancer on to your crank shaft the correct way using an LS7/LSA crank bolt. The bolt is approximately 1inch longer than the factory Truck bolt. Using the bolt avoids ruining the first several threads of the crankshaft. Hope you learned something!
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I just ordered one, definitely seems alot safer. Thanks for the tip. Just got done rebuilding my whole engine and i was iffy on the short oem crank bolt for reinstalling the balancer.
Wish I had found this video sooner! Just want to finish the job and find out the harmonic balancer kit doesn't have a big enough washer for the GM HB. Now I get to enjoy another delay while I get this simple bolt! Thanks so much for this video, I will certainly subscribe to your channel!
Don’t feel bad I did the same exact thing I was looking forward to hearing my new cam set up now I’m watching this video instead
Great advice using a ls7 bolt going to try that out
That paint scheme is awesome
Thanks i thought so too
Outstanding work Sir!
U save me with this tip thanks so much the comments is proud of you
Love the video it helped alot
Best one I've seen
so I have a 2007 4.8 out of a GMC van. I bought a new bolt like yours (silver). When I finally removed the original it looks just like the black on with the washer. Same length. Is the old one reusable?
Thanks for the tip
Cool tip
The stock bolt is 100mm in length so I went and just bought a 120mm long bolt and it work for me
last 20 seconds had me dying lol
Does using that ls7 bolt negate the need to torque the new bolt down to that infamous 240 ft/lb I hear all the time. Or is that only to bottom it out which you did with the bolt? And a lot less force obviously. Just curious
The Ls7 bolt just runs the balancer down enough to finish installing with the stock 6.0 bolt. Run it down back it off and use a new bolt to finish the job
BEETEROLDS I understand that part I'm asking about torquing it down. What would you torque it to with this method?
@@kevinbutler5226 I usually run the factory bolt down with an impact after I slather it with Red lock tite. 250ft lbs seems to be the norm. But achieving that torque is next to impossible with a conventional torque wrench.
So what about using socket wrench and extension... how do I know its tight enough?
Run it down with an impact and call it a day. Gm overcomplicates things sometimes.
I tell You BeeterOlds this video helped so much im going to GM first thing Monday morning This video is SUPER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Blue Thread Locker Should Be Just Fine If You Plan To Rebuild Your Engine Again Later, Other Than That ... Have Fun Tryna Take Off That Bolt With Red Thread Locker. :/
I just did to swap cams.. came right out with a 3ft breaker bar.
Rebuilding my first 5.3. Didnt realize i had to center the front plate with the HB or that there was any kind of tool. Rebuilding the motor in my driveway and in the truck. Will my HB seal leak right away if its not centered or will it take some time? Thanks
you'll run into problems with the harmonic balancer oblonging the seal out due to not being concentric. the seal is only so flexible. One of dave's videos showcases a land rover front main leaking due to timing cover misalignment
@@ericdodson7611 maybe I got lucky, no speaking and no.leaks yet. Abou 8k on motor. I will definelty keep this in mind for the next motor
Everywhere I have read your new bolt is also TTY. What makes you believe it is reusable?
The fact that I've done it 3 times already and all 3 vehicles are still on the road after 7yrs and countless miles..
I like your engine color ,what color is it
thanks
How much space you have between balancer and timing cover?
No clue. I run the balancer down until it bottoms out. Thats all i know.
Fr. I’m trying to figure it out too
@@elmerrivera5376 Just run it down till it can't go anymore. Mine worked fine
Very informative, i work in a smaller mechanic shop & constantly see new hires use the factory hermonic balancer bolts to try to re install there hermonic ballancers & when they fk up the threads inside the crank they then ask for help 😆 in the shop i work at i always tell new hires "its okay to ask questions & ask for help" no question is a stupid question to ask. ((Some questions seem stupid & dumb founded)) but in reality, how are you going to know if you dont ask? Id rather ppl get it right rather than severely mess up something especially a costly mistake like destroying the crank to the point the motor has to be tore out & gone through -_-
Absolutely.
Will this work on gen v lt1?
Remember to always lube your shaft
with smeg
Can I just go buy a longer bolt or do I need to use the ls7?
You can do that if you can find bolt.that big.
Does this style harmonic balancer have to be re-clocked, or re-aligned with the crank and rest of the engine? In other words, are there timing marks or anything that have to be aligned on the balancer in relation to marks on the block? Or can the balancer go back on in any whatever orientation?
Nope. Just lick it and stick it.. Done
@@beeterolds bruh🤦🏾♂️😂😂😂
I put the circles on To align with the Planets
Circles on top
I have a problem I think my crank is stripped and i'm wondering if I can tap and die it
I’m having the same issue
What if I used a tool to center the timing plate.? Should I still loosen it up?
I wouldnt think so
lube the snout with what? oil? lube the bolt threads with what? anti seize?
Lock Tight.
@@beeterolds the threads? which color lock tite?
@@v8powa466 red. And yes. Like they did from the factory . Every engine I've done. Never had a single issue.
I thought you couldn’t use the stock boat because it stretches them?
That’s what GM wants you to believe
@redneckcommie why not go the safer route for a 4 dollar bolt
@@thekingofnoobs8362 why spend money when you have a perfectly good bolt
@redneckcommie why not waste 4 dollars just to be on the safe side 4 dollars ain't nothing theirs no wasting money its easy to spend 4 considering that it it were to fail it would cost way more
@@thekingofnoobs8362 man I’m out here rebuilding these motors for less than $1k. Every dollar counts. Plus there’s been studies done on these used factory stretch bolts and they’re practically just as strong as ARP. Brand new fel-pro bolts are actually worse.
Nothing like “Tighter than Hell, plus 3 turns” to hold a slight press fit harmonic balancer that has no keyed position on the nose of a crankshaft.
What’s next, user name and password on toilet paper holder?
Does the crank have a keyway? i dont see it in the pictuers
Only the supercharged 6.2 and LS7. The rest do not
No but yiu buy a pin kit, drill n pin it if u want
How stop the pully from turnig when Torquing the bolt
Isn’t there supposed to be a gap between the timing cover and the balancer?
I think you’re right
Will my ls2 balancer fit in my lq9???
Some jackwagon reused the factory bolt on my tbss and yesterday it threw the belt. Wore out the snout of the crankshaft.
You can reuse the factory bolt. However you have to use Red Loctite and shoot it down with an impact. Or simply buy an aftermarket bolt..
@@beeterolds thanks for the info. I seen what looked like red loctite on the underside of the bolt head. Crazy enough it was backed off. Noticed my belt barking. Popped the hood and seen the ac belt jump off. Proceeded to impact the bolt in and the balancer still "wiggled" as it was tight.
Depressing as I just dropped 7k buying it a month-ish ago.
Ya something wasnt done correctly
What could be the problem when your not firing on one side
Bad computer. Bad spark controller.. or even a bad harness
What about harmonic balancer washer ? I have leak from the front seal. Replaced it 2 times already ( How to corrrect install this washer ?
Put RTV on the threads.
There's no washer
Why you hade to remove the long bolt ? Cant you just leave it and use it ?
It.bottoms out.
@@beeterolds trim it
@@332ARAsmh
I went to my local hardware store for a 16mm 2.00 pitch bolt that was 3/4” bigger than the actual bolt and a big washer. I removed it after 3/4” or so and am going to finish with the one from the auto repair place.
Im gonna return the $9 bolt and the washer.
So here's the flaw... The only way you can "center" the cover is horizontally. (left to right) If you use a flat edge on the bottom, then the seal can't be centered. (at least vertically)... They even make a tool for alignment of the cover over the crank.. What I've found, at least with most of them, is that when the seal is centered over the crank, it will be flat with the oil pan surface. Using the cover install tool is the way to go. IMHO.
4 yrs later no leak.
@@beeterolds I'm not saying what you did was wrong. I'm just saying that people think it's centered and then shift it to meet the oil pan surface. Technically you can't have both. I center the cover using the tool, and that gets the bottom close enough.
@@jameswizI bought the alignment tool but ended up installing the seal first 🤦🏻♂️ so now I have to put the harmonic then sit the cover straight (horizontal)
Installer kit from O'Reilly didn't fit inside my balancer.
Damn I was going to try it also (O'Reilly tool) bit didn't get a chance. Hopefully it works
I wish mine was going on that easy. Heat, Aerokroil, a mallet, it's 90% there but this last bit is hell.
How can you claim to install the harmonic balancer "the correct way" and then not insist on proper torque?
Because there is no way to properly torque a torque to yield bolf that large in size.
@@beeterolds There is if you use the correct tools, I have doe it may times.
@@beeterolds after using an installer to seat the harmonic balancer, install the flywheel locking tool and using the old bolt torque to 240 ft-lbs. Then loosen & remove the old bolt, install the new bolt and torque to 37 ft-lbs then an additional 140 degrees.
So impact the old crank bolt to 240 and then install the new crank bolt to 37?
Where can I get a Bolt like that
The dealer
@@beeterolds like any Chevy dealer
good video if your engine happens to be OUT OF THE VEHICLE!
The what your waiting for?
Let me ask you a question MetalSlug270,,,, when someones harmonic balancer splits and breaks, do they remove the entire engine just to replace it? NO, they do it with the engine still in the vehicle, and that's the video I'm "waiting for".
huh..well you use the seal centering tool first that way you know for SURE seal is centered properly first... tighten down cover then install seal..then the balancer... ...
Why not put a little engine oil on the balancer for the seal won't hurt nothing never goin dry never
never reuse the original to torque to yield bolt to obtain the required 240 lbs required
Been reusing mine for years. Youre never gonna snap a bolt that big.
@@beeterolds actually my friend did. The bolt is only designed to yield that torque once.. I'd rather pay $5.50 than take that fatal chance. The way my luck goes i just know I'd come up on the losing end lol
@@richardsilva5134 for the cost its a no brainer. Ive done it on beaters or engines that havent much life in them anyways.. Red Loctite and run em down with an impact.. One day itll bite me in the butt but last 2 engines ive put together ive bought new bolts anyways
We refuse those at work all the time.
How many UGGA UGGA'S Equals 250 ft lbs?🤪
A whole shit ton
Shit I did my cam and got the damn crank seal leak damn 🤦 I just bought the tool to center out the seal 😒
When you install the cover you need to bolt it down loose. When reinstalling the balancer it will center the seal. Once the balancer is seated you can finish bolting the cover down
M16 X 2.0 thread
What length?
I'm sorry I don't recall the length. I did replace mine with a new dealer stretch bolt as per the specifications. I used the old one to seat the pulley then replaced and torqued down with the new stretch bolt. It is still in use and doing fine as a daily driver.
I had also used the auto zone long reach kit to get it started and pulled down. Then used the old bolt second.
Lost validity when couple ugga ugga to torque it
Want some tissues???
@@beeterolds I'm sure you have some handy
Ya looking at your moms pics I needed some
@@beeterolds you have confirmed 3 things, you are not a *mechanic* so shouldn't be posted how to videos (better title as how not to), you are not remotely funny, and you have very thin skin. Life is tough, you aren't.
So I wasted money on a timing cover line up tool 🤦
Yup
dude get that varicose vein on your leg removed, will be the cause of all kinda issues when you get old, endovenous laser ablation or other non invasive therapies are now available.
HAHA... theyre hereditary... I do a lot of Cardio and biking etc... had an ultrasound on it recently... all is good. Dr. said to leave it alone till it bothers me
@@beeterolds a lot of docs aren't aware of the modern treatments for them, they are a pain in the arse and the surface ones you are seeing is only the tip of the iceberg, basically you have a failed vein causing a massive build up of pressure inside your vascular system in your lower leg, the longer it persists the longer it is basically ruining more and more of your legs venous system, the greater saphenous vein is the main culprit, I too am very active, hunting, competing in sport, working physical construction jobs 12 to 15 hours a day, etc etc, fitness or no fitness there is ongoing damage from the reflux in the veins.
Just some friendly advice man, sooner they're out the better, the body doesn't adapt to the removal of them so well when older.
My dads dealt with them for 67yrs had em stripped and removed.... still came back.. they itch on occassion but thats it.. not worried
@@beeterolds yeah that's the old bs shit way of doing things, if ya doc only knows about stripping them get a new doc... None of the issues surrounding stripping/surgery exist in the new treatments, my grandad left his too, doc told him not to worry bout them, last 15 years of his life was constant ulcers and other circulation problems, he had no heart or blood pressure problems and no diabetes, the whole problem was his varicose veins
Im good dont worry about me
11570163
Just found one. $29.00
With AAA discount $26.00 all on the account that I can not find my install tool.