Restoration Teardown - Was It Done Properly?
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- Опубликовано: 10 фев 2024
- A requested inspection of a restoration, a restoration that was performed by some other electronics technician some time ago. Let's see how they did! To learn electronics in a very different and effective way, and gain access to Mr Carlson's personal designs and inventions, visit the Mr Carlson's Lab Patreon page here: / mrcarlsonslab
#restoration #electronics #repairing 
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To learn electronics in a very different and effective way, and gain access to Mr Carlson's personal designs and inventions, visit the Mr Carlson's Lab Patreon page here: www.patreon.com/MrCarlsonsLab
Regarding J-hooking, I used to try and completely remove the components and resolder to the original connections, but you end up breaking stuff like tube socket terminals, terminal strips and the other component leads which are attached to the terminal you are trying to desolder. Many times, the tech who originally built the set has really taken two or more components and twisted the leads together and stuck them on one terminal with that wrapped tightly or sometimes they add them separately and twist in different directions on the terminal. Say you are trying to change a coupling cap and because of the way this was originally done, you break the tube socket terminal which has happened more than once to me especially if they are those bottom mounted sockets that have the laminated layers of phenolic sandwiching the metal pins. Now you have to take everything off and make a diagram, drill out the rivets which end up spinning, so it is damn near impossible. You end up with a mismatched socket, if you even have one on hand that fits the chassis hole and rivet holes and half the time you end up breaking more component leads so one or more may be short now, so you have to go back into the circuit further desoldering components that worked fine. Then what if you don't have the correct value resistor in the wattage you need. There are just a hundred problems you can cause completely taking out components. Or you could J-hook in the coupling cap and be done in literally one minute and it functions perfectly. After this happened to me a few times, I started j hooking. I feel it is more valuable to preserve the originality of the equipment instead of making a big mess of things. This saves so much money and time and works just fine.
The modern components are dwarfed by the oem ones and don't always fit in the same location. The leads either need to be extended or the circuit modified for the placement of components. I try to avoid having to solder to the rf or if coils to prevent melting them inside the cans. @@skullheadwater9839
Here, here!!
I have a Lab series Tectonics with pluggable modules! Would you like it for free? You may have to repair old caps? Let me know? Love your channel been a bench tech sense 1970
Looks like Ray Charles radio repair?
Might bear in mind this is graduate level restoration here. Mr. Carlson sets high standards. Beginners or neophytes should not be discouraged, always put forth your best effort and strive to always improve. Don't be discouraged, don't expect perfection as you are learning.
I agree. Mr. Carlson chose his words carefully as to not discourage others from performing restorations. Every beginner makes errors and after the likely hundreds of various repairs and restorations, you will become a skilled artisan like Mr. Carlson. Trouble shooting: over time, with experience, is an art as well. Reading schematics will become second nature. One safety tip I always follow is my left hand is literally in my pocket or touching my lap when measuring gear with HV power inside.
Oh fur sure, and these videos are really 'expert level tips' and take many years of experience to just 'see' right away
I have high standards when repairing TV's ect at work, none of mine come back, it can't be said about some other engineers in the workshop unfortunately, some chase the money, personally I chase my pride of work, money wise I catch up when they have re-repairs to do which they don't get paid for, So I like to see Paul's standards
@@tseckwr3783 I stopped doing that at 50 years old after never getting shocked because of putting my hand where it didn't belong. It is said Tesla used to do that, so it is a good idea.😁
@@paul-c7541 You can't make money on returns.
"He meant well", how heartwarmingly gracious of you.
🤣🤣🤣
Probably meaning they made an effort to do the job right, but had the wrong tools and knowledge. Unlike a 'Genius' Bar or Samsung Warranty Support.
"There's never enough time to do it right but there is always time to do it over." I think Mac from Mac's Radio Service Shop once said that. Google it.
I wouldn't have been so gracious personally
We know! 😁@@paul-c7541
I'm grateful that when I'm gone, I'll rest easier knowing that none of my radios are likely to end up on Mr. Carlson's bench.
Paul, I believe this radio is in the best of hands for a restore, I vote for a Mr. Carlson's lab restore to save it from ultimate radio death...
Can you imagine the existential crisis a tech would have to see their own work get deemed as inadequate in one of Mr. Carlson's videos?
I would view it as a great learning opportunity. Few things will help you improve faster than being honestly judged by a master of the craft.
That fuse holder definitely looks like the DIY automotive stuff we have over here in Europe.
I think the give away was NO rating on it or safety symbols
This radio is a beautiful candidate for your old time looking digital frequency counter.
Yup 👍
There some nice very compact frequency counter modules sold on eBay, that can be pre programmed (preset) to the local oscillator of a receiver.
I'm a 'Doctor of engineering' But this is "Professor Carlson's Lab'. Always good, informative and educational. Thank you Professor Carlson.
👍
@@robinbrowne5419 👍👌
I have been told by my engineer friends (my twin brother is an electrical engineer), that I am a better engineer than any they have run across, it must be that Scottish blood.
Nice looking radio. I enjoy the dials on these old sets with multiple bands.
Thank you for your videos. New to antique radios and I'm learning so much from you.
I really do enjoy watching your channel, even though I know nothing about electronics. It's awesome to see your attention to detail, just like the folks at the factory, way back when people actually took pride in their work in producing great quality products that will last. A far cry from today's "throw-away" society. Keep up the great videos! Thank you
True, but the throwaway society did not come about for no reason, there were not enough people to do the work, I used to try. The solution was to make everything so cheap that you could throw it away and get a newer model. This idea was a continuation of the idea of mass production to make things afforabile. Tesla has given me a problem with that though because their cars are so good, I don't want to trade it in.
Mr Carlson is one of those Platinum standard engineers, a man of excellence and the best of the best in his field. I would always trust his judgment on these things and if you've seen enough of his in depth restorations, you would understand why.
That's why I support him on Patreon. You should also.
Honestly, his complaints about the tools and components used in this restoration makes me feel like I should start saving the money I'm giving him on patreon and save up for better equipment...@@tedmoss
Even amateurs like me could spot the problems that were found. Very substandard work.
What a beautifully designed radio !
I would give the previous restoration a thumbs-up for at least adding a fuse, of the correct value. Most don't bother adding a fuse at all.
Certainly the soldering work and replacement component choices might be dubious, but it is all protected by that 1A fuse.
Hi Mr. Carlson, Been enjoying your videos for years, You have a wealth of knowledge, really know your stuff. I do repairs and restorations myself as a hobby, restorations are only as good as what the customer is willing to pay. Other than maybe a polarized plug, I think this restoration is somewhat acceptable, I don't see anything that's going to breakdown anytime soon. I'm very meticulous myself but in order to do a proper full restoration, it would need to be stripped down to the bare bones, therefore tripling or more the price. "Been there, done that".
Of all the electronics channels on you tube you sir are the only one I would trust with my life as your commitment to perfection is way beyond all others your knowledge astounds me and I am in constant awe of your flawless application
Very much agree. Very well said.
Kerry Wong just now posted about a dangerous power cord with steel wire. Can't be too careful especially with the new stuff!
He has single handedly revolutionized the hobby for me.
Mr. Carlson does not go beyond reason though.
Very nice radio, I hope it gets re-restored. Thanks for another good video.
Thanks Carlson always enjoy your work.
My pleasure!
Marrawanna
The Matsushita/Panasonic electrolytics are definitely counterfeit, Panasonic uses a "T" shape cap vent mark and these have a cross shape. I've bought so many legit Panny caps I just noticed it immediately. And if those are counterfeit, high likelyhood that the other poly type caps etc are as well
This handsome radio received a very good checkup. I'm glad the owner put it in the right hands. Excellent instructive video. Thanks
Thanks, Paul 👍
Your skills and knowledge keeps impressing me mr. Carlson. You are really good! 🤩
I wonder if these should be restored. They are great to look at as is but the sound of am is not going to be great for many of these radios.
Autopsy and forensics content always wins my vote
This was a very pleasant surprise to find this morning, as always. I'm not a football fan so at least I got to watch at least one good thing that's not about that. (Also let's hope Taylor Swift never gets _too_ into vintage electronics restoration.)
Thank you for the videos, you are a walking encyclopedia good Sir!
Great work as always.
Can't wait for the restoration of this great radio, Paul!
Awesome radio and diagnosis Professor Carlson !!
When I am doing a restoration, I always ask myself- would Mr Carlson approve?
Grate video Paul
Always empressed
Thanks Paul.. very interesting as always...a good old hot iron was definitely needed for those chassis connections...
Thank you.
That is a beautiful radio, I hope it gets the proper restoration it deserves.
Proving I watch Mr. C's videos: If Paul did an alignment on that radio, I would bet he would also find the adjustable inductors had been "screwdrivered" -- that is, adjusted to a point where they are actually impeding the radio's ability to receive. New, polarized line cord, a proper fuse holder, a hot solder reflow to those joints, and a proper alignment would do this radio a lot of good in an hour's worth of work. Certainly not up to Paul Carlson Standard, especially with the hodge-podge of parts flapping in the breeze, but I bet it would still turn out better than most people's restorations.
I think Mr. Carlson has a point re: the fuse holder and the quality of the solder connections, but I would like to point out that mix-matched components is not in itself a bad thing and while J-hooks is not how he prefers to do his work, I see no safety problem with J hooks when done correctly (i.e. soldered with sufficient heat, routed in responsible ways, long sections of leads covered with spaghetti when needed etc.). A lot of hobbyists out there use whatever left over parts they have on hand before placing parts orders and something like modern film caps & modern resistors are not going to go bad sitting on a shelf for 2-5 years while waiting for the next project to use them up. A lot of the gripes of "where the restorer could have done better" like the eye tube orientation, or the dirty pushbuttons is not going to determine how safe the set is to leave plugged in. The fuse holder is absolutely a problem, as is any cold solder joints (remember: glowing faults can't be stopped by fuses, nor even AFCIs), but the rest is easily better than some of the "serviced" or "restored" stuff that shows up at hamfests & swapmeets. Not able to see the labels on the caps in the pictures, but I know some of the cheaper modern caps out there have very faint labeling and I have seen some with short-hand methods of denoting voltage ratings instead of spelling out "400V" or "630V" like the top-shelf mainbrand companies use. I forget the maker, but there was a Hong Kong company of polypropylene film caps that used a letter to denote the voltage rating (400v was one letter, 630v was marked "J" I think, I don't remember the specifics because its not a brand I use). Its plausible in my opinion that the person who did the work did use properly rated caps, but then its also plausible that they were ripped off by some fly by night chinese seller on wish or something like that. Counterfeit electrolytics for example have been a big problem for years.
Wonderful video thanks Paul :-)
You're very welcome!
Great video sir
Awesome as Always... Really enjoyed this one Great explanation, Pleasure to watch and Learn.
Great video to some of the dos and don'ts and why things should be done. love you channel the best
Good looking radio that maybe should be made safe for daily listening.
I think it would be a nice future project...
Thanks for sharing your expertise, Mr Carlson, and see you next time.
GREAT VIDEO !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks!!
I love you dude!
Another excellent (and kind) review of what might be a delicate situation. I chuckled when you said this radio's previous restorer had good intentions - flashing back to the old proverb "The road to hell is paved with good intentions". Always interesting content Mr. Carlson!
Attention to details would be the caption for this project. Like you said in the video, the restorer meant well, but you wouldn't use it. I really like how you explain things, Paul and also enjoy your professional assessments. Since I started watching you back in 2018, I worked to get my General Ham Radio license and have been working on getting my shack built. Still have my IC-7300 still in the box because I was supposed to have a 30' antenna tower in my back yard but my contractor didn't get around to me before the season ended, so will be doing that first thing thsi spring. I did buy an IC-705 with a Chameleon MPAS 2.0 portable antenna and have been enjoying radio again. I want to get back into CW because that's all I could use when I hac my novice licenso 40 plus years ago. Anyhow, love your posts and the inspiration that comes from thiem.
Man Paul, you could tell it was hard to say (sub par)...you're a good guy ! If the WHOLE WORLD could just TAKE this kind of honesty !
Beautiful video as usual Mr. C!
Many thanks!
Again, only the best electronic repair videos come from your channel. Considering the knobs; I try to find at least one good knob (from any source) and make a silicone mold of it. Then I color an acrylic, two part polymer, pour and cure all the knobs that are needed. With this approach one gets perfect, beautiful knobs, that look antique, are very strong, and will last another 100 years. Also, the silicone molds can be used on other electronic projects!!
This was like watching a Bob Ross episode
Hello Paul,
Shango066 showed me something very clever. He took an old dynamic speaker with an open field coil and converted it to permanent magnet by placing neodymium magnets on it and it worked surprisingly good. A resistor was installed to take the place of passing the voltage
I have done that as well, it does work surprisingly good for a patch.
Nice video!
We must never forget: We have originals to restore! What we hand over is what the generations after us will hold in their hands as contemporary witnesses. It is always difficult to decide what to take away and replace with something more modern. At the very least, it should be reversible.
Yes, I too made mistakes at the beginning with restorations that I later had to correct. Thank you for pointing out the consequences of half-knowledge in restorations!
Good video, liked the analysis and explanation.
Hope the owner agrees to you restoring it, it’s a beautiful radio and well worth it.
I liked this style of video ❤❤
Do your thing, Paul
Paul, I think this radio deserves the "Carlson treatment" and I sure hope it gets it! 73 de Larry, K3LT
Bravissimo 👍👍👍
Gee, I hope Mr Carlson never looks at anything I worked on with the tools and components that I will have money and space for in the foreseeable future!
I love to fix lightning damage and errors caused by inexperienced tech. Makes it far more challenging and fun. 😊😊😊
Nice engineering you are awesome ❤️ 😊😊
A pleasant surprise to see a new video from you! Good morning first of all. I have an idea for a video if you're open to it. I would love to see your take on circuit design computer programs. You have a ton of info on how to make your own circuit boards but none on the program(s) used to accomplish this. I would really enjoy seeing you put a simple circuit together and see you on the computer end of things either here or on Patreon. Thanks for all you do and enjoy the rest of your weekend.
Seeing you take the chassis out made me think of how many I have done, way to many to count over 70 years.😁😁
A bread baker always looks at the bread of another baker differently.
And as we know a saying: Almost all roads in Europe indeed lead to Rome.
Still, this was a fun episode.
73 pe1krx
Great video,thanks for bringing us along, and pointing out the issues of a supposedly restored unit,yea,its like a car,do it back with good parts
It is a nice looking set that, and with your touch it will keep its owner proud and assured. The other thing I don't like about that fuse holder is it was the wrong way round. You were able to plug the fuse into the end connected to the incoming live (?) line with your fingers on the other end of the fuse. The live feed should go to the shrouded end. You then plug the new fuse into the open dead equipment side first and then into the live shrouded end. just in case you have forgotten to unplug first. People often wire panel fuse holders the wrong way too.
I've run across a few "restorations" like this over the years. Some restorers seem to have the idea that "anything goes" under the chassis. They think that as long as it more-or-less functions, what does it matter how it looks? I may not be the brightest technician when it comes to electronic theory, but I strive to do a job that I am proud of, even if no one is likely to ever see it. I've seen plates of spaghetti that were more orderly than this rat's nest.
Yes Paul, I hope you do get the chance to restore the electronics of this nice looking old radio. All the best from Gene in Tennessee.
Dont be picky, it is a Good repair for midrage cost.
"Dont be picky" are not words that work in my world.
@@MrCarlsonsLab La phrase qui tue! Another one is "Don't go crazy about it". Of course I go crazy about things! It's not like I can take apart a 1950's radio or a laptop, and then poke around just for fun. You don't half-solder or half-replace components :D
"J" hooks. Today's components are often smaller and tend to have much shorter leads than those of yesteryear. In that case a "J" hook is the cleanest extension. Of course heat shrink must be used to cover the "mess". But I agree that a post is the best option when you can cleanly install it.
Very nice review of that rebuild. I agree, some things are fine, but other repairs, will need some expert help! I would very much enjoy the Mr Carlson touch applied to this radio. That case does look very nice. Finally YES, that AUTO fuse holder has got to go, there is a nice blank area on the right rear back panel that might accommodate a chassis mount holder! 73 de KK6PD!
Yes, Mr CarlsonI would agree 100% with your assessment of the previous restoration of this fine looking radio. Radio looks like an amateur worked on it, who knew just enough to get it fixed and working.
To do perfection in restoration takes a lot of time, careful planning and technique. Most of my occasional customers go for a “repair” vs restoration Meaning make it safe, and operate at a satisfactory level. And of course, it fits their budget.
I agree this has not been a professional restoration but beside using a too low powered soldering iron and the fuse issues I’d still give it a mild thumbs up. The job does seem to have a bit of Eastern European style over it though. Maybe it was repaired by some fifth columnist. Or somebody from Italian descent? I’ve seen many an Italian organ with such colored sweets parts. 😁
In my opinion such equipment with metal chassis should not be used without a ground connection. And preferably an RCDM device in the house.
Those filter caps do appear to be fake Panasonic NHGs. The strain relief stamp is not Matsushita.
I'd like to see this one given a proper restoration.
Greetings Paul,
I have enjoyed and gleaned much from your Mr. Carlson’s labs over the past few years, although house renovations have interrupted my viewing in the last several months.
In the mid 70’s I purchased a Sherwood S-7100 Stereo receiver and Empire speakers. I have enjoyed the fine sounds these provide. However, recently when I turned the S-7100 on, I had no audio. The S-7100 receiver lights up the dial and the tuning meter appears to indicate when a station (AM or FM) is present. I checked speaker wiring and the power and speaker fuses, they appear okay. When stereo ear buds are plugged into the front panel a very mild sync buzz is heard.
I suspect electrolytic capacitors may have failed but my knowledge and skill set, at age 82, are not sufficient to attempt this repair.
Can you recommend a repair shop in Brantford, Ontario, Canada.
Respectfully, thanking you in advance,
Paul W. Aitchison
Mr Carlsons lab you are good at restoring antique radios and alignment of antique radios my friend
I have no problem with J hooked joints .
It's fast & also the choice of tech's with failing eyes .
As for capacitors use what you have , but test first .
After that it works or it doesn't !
Before seeing a unit my old boss always asked “ Repair time ? ”
I normally answered about yea high !
His reply was always the same “ You've got 20 minutes ” .
You'd better be putting the screws in at the 20 minutes mark .
No repair shop will ever do repairs like Mr C .
Nether the shop or customer could afford it !
Any fuse holder rated for mains power will have the rating on it, if it doesn’t, it’s not rated for more than 24 volts or so. With the number of flying splices in there it looks more like an airport than a radio.
I would also like to comment on Shango066's mentioning DO NOT leave vintage electronics plugged in permanently. He claims that the switches can carbon track and cause a fire. I took his advice and not trust the power switches in my 70+ year old equipment and use a power strip. I seems like a good idea. Beautiful looking radio by the way! I just love the wood grain and black trim. I've got a Silvertone 701 to restore (with a tuning eye) and a Stewart Warner R1915D with the vibrator power supply. Can't wait! And yeah, some people aren't too great with a slobbering iron.
Great vid. Would love to see it re-restored to learn how you like to do wiring and soldering for those components with floating leads and j-hooks.
That's the story of Mr. Carlson's Life. Backwards capacitors, frayed wires, burnt out tubes, and overheating transformers. See. We are paying attention. Cheers :-)
"He meant well" are words often told to the firefighters as they are pouring water through the roof of your house. There's a right way of repairing or restoring an electrical circuit: every way else is wrong.
Hi, Paul.
You should probably never leave something this old plugged in unless every component has been replaced. A lot of nit picking on things that work and were probably better than what was there before. It is expensive and time consuming to do electronics repair. You can do repairs the right way or a way that works. This looks like a bit of both but nothing that looks like it would cause a catastrophic failure. The one big no no I saw was the caps with the heat shrink against the chassis. Tube units generate a lot of heat. An automotive fuse holder may be a good choice. That heat also causes expansion which wears on components. Seems like they should have sent it to you in the first place.
WHAT IF ???
If line cord is replaced with polarized one such that Line+ always goes to power switch and Line-neutral goes to chassis couldn't being plugged in constantly be allowable?
Yes, of course, the is nothing much to worry about here. Even Mr Carlson was struggling to condemn it.@@tomtke7351
@@tomtke7351 Old electronics were insulated by plastics(usually Bakelite) and paper. I guess engineers at the time didn't think polarized plugs were necessary. Especially on AC equipment with the way AC works. Now with safety standards and lessons learned is why we have polarized plugs. If outlet wiring is correct it would prevent a hot chassis when the unit is off. Also the AC cord isn't connected directly to the chassis. Not only would that be hazardous it would make a lot of noise in signal reception.
I enjoyed watching your inspection and analysis, and I would enjoy a video of a restoration, but I realize that would be very time-consuming.
Fuseholder looks automotive, they are usually supplied with a long loop of red wire which you cut and join, needs replacing, and like you said, polarised plug
I still have a bit of 30's - 50's era cloth and rubberized wire I had yanked from old tv and stereo consoles as well as some tubes,pots and odd small boards and components. Thinking back I should had saved more odds and ends like knobs,light,s buttons,etc.... I was able too wire my electric guitar with authentic 50's wiring including era correct wire.
Mr Carlsons lab your utube videos are awesome my friend
I appreciate that!
I never did care or the lead-hook style approach to replacing flying lead components (resistors, caps). It looks sloppy and often fails at the first requirement that an electrical connection be mechanically sound before soldering. Many techs do not close the loops with a pair of needle nose.
I opened up an SP-600 that I picked up on ebay and found that it had been previously restored with that method but a great many of the solder joints had what appeared to be icicles hanging off of the splices. heavy components were floating free in space, the wire loom had been partially cut off with the wax thread left in disarray. Wire-wrap wires was used for component connections.
I had to methodically go through the radio and replace it all and fix the out of spec resistors that were buried deep down, near the chassis.
A partial restoration will try and fool you in to leaving it alone and just accepting a mediocre job.
I am 80 yrs. old now, but still not old enough to remember all these beautiful classic radios...But, beautiful and nostalgic as they may be, they are still old and outdated in all respects. Being the strange character that I am, I have never liked anything old...no old cars, no old houses, and no old women (until I married one)! But, for the old radios, none of them will 'hold a candle' to any of the newer radios available in any respect to include beauty and performance. So if one wants nostalgia over quality, then old is great...but, otherwise, new is greater...much greater, at least until the next big EMP arrives. I still enjoy watching Dr. Carlson's restorations but every time I have access to one of those old tyme radios and play with them I find that the 'cultural' shock between old and new remains tremendous...old: big, heavy, not portable, few if any lighting options, no computer interfacing, no VFO, BFO, no SSB, seldom stereo or FM, no options, no this and no that with the list seemingly infinitum. Oh well...this is just me with one foot in the grave with no radios of any kind there! Wishing you all well...meet you all 'on the other side'.
Awesome, honest and cool......thats you !
Respect for your forward thinking, but in a world of growing quantity and thoughts one might be dedicated to throwing breadcrumbs to enlighten the path we all came from.
Say, what??? My comment is simply my personal opinion...so, I really don't know what you are meaning with your comment but this I can say...lighten up...I am not criticizing anyone...just my preference...no old cars, old houses or old radios...smile...notice that I don't include old women, anymore.@@erikdenhouter
'Soon' to be even cooler, if you know what I mean...@@andymouse
:)@@danleep1185
It takes a Dedicated Electronic enthusiastic person to tidy-up somebody else's Cowboy work 😪😮💨😮💨
Please take no offense.. your voice is perfect for this, but you just need a little eq. The sibilance is strong. You could put a foam over the mic, or cut the eq in the upper end between 5k and 7k, or maybe use a d-esser in post. 🤙🏼
I've seen these fuse holders in Dynavox tube amps.
I think the only way to judge the person who did this restoration is if the owner (being the seller or buyer) would present the deal made. If this is made on a budget it could be a good job. I don't think there is something a real danger inside, EXCEPT the caps without a voltage rating, and (maybe) the the non polarized plug.
IMO the only real issue is the improper fuse holder. I also didn't see any line-to-ground capacitors but if present they need to be proper safety types. If any other capacitors lack a proper voltage rating it could be dangerous to the circuitry but it won't shock you. And the proper fuse will help prevent a fire if something goes wrong.
Another great video Paul, i agree with you on every point, but i would just like to add a few things, a little bit in the defence of the person who did this resto;; #1 from what i've seen on some of the few radios i've restored so far, it was common practice to have a bunch of ''Flying'' resistors very roughly soldered together just floating beneath the components (on top when chassis is upside down). I've completely restored an 1937 RCA Victor 87-K and the resistor array arrangement was scary to look at. So much so i first though it had been done by a DIYer, but since i had 2 chassis of the same radio i was shocked to see they were both identical and it was done this was from factory. #2 it would be nice to be able to unsolder every single old wire and replace them with new ones but from my experience every single time i tried unsoldering a wire from a tube socket, the amount of heat required to melt old solder where there was a huge amount of it used to connect 2 or 3 wires on the same tab, always damaged the phenolic base often time doing more harm than good (even with a solder pump). This is most likely the reason why most guys running radio restoration channels go through great lengths showing us how to do J or pig tail connections, let alone the difficulty to access some of the parts on a finished radio. #3 finding correct replacement components i find is always a challenge, heck axials are next to impossible to find and the values used back in the day are often not manufactured any more. Working on a 1989 SCS power amp this week-end i struggled just trying to find a few 8𝜇𝚏 100v axial caps, it was either settling for 250v radials or 8.2 𝜇𝚏 axials at 250 v again and at 23$ a piece mind you. My point is you very often have to compromise when replacing components and put in what you can find, at least here in Canada. Lastly about the melted buttons and knobs, in this case they all seem to have been painted and/or varnished (most likely oil based products), i'd bet money this is what deformed the plastic, not time or regular or even abusive usage of them. Just my 2₵. Thank's for the very interesting video 🙂
The brand name Rogers (they eventually become a cell phone service provider) makes me worry that the owner will be getting a monthly bill for $85 from Rogers for "Radio Wave Services". 🙂
Only in Canada!
Interesting to see from the view point of mistakes and traps amateur restorers can fall into. I would make these mistakes, so a good training video for me and I'm sure, many others.
I'd go with "he/she meant well." One does not know the history and how many people have worked on it in the past and what the "marching orders" were. Sometimes it is "just get it working." On the fuse holder. I would not judge it by the red wires. For decades, we've used Littlefuse in-line fuse holders. They come with red wires (typically just one, looped...then one cuts it where desired. A Littlefuse 150 series (01500274Z) is for 5x20mm and is rated at 350V with a max of 10A.