Thanks for the helpful video. I’m trying to figure out why my 2009 DRZ suddenly stopped charging the battery. I don’t have the manual . Any chance you could post what the values should read for the diode test and other values if available? Or post a link to those if one is available? Thanks!
In the first half of the video you only tested 3 of the 6 diodes in a 3-phase rectifier. You should do a similar test again, through the 3 diodes leading to the negative battery lead (ground) like you did on the positive lead. The results should be the opposite of the 3 you tested. That's a total of 12 checks: one check in each of 2 directions of 6 diodes - 3 feeding the positive wire, 3 more feeding the negative wire. If any one of the 6 diodes checks conductive in both directions, or open in both directions, the unit has to be replaced. In that case it can charge during 2 of the 3 phases of rotation, but not charge, or even drain the battery, during the other phase. Thus fooling you into believing it's working when you look at the average running voltage on your voltmeter. Also it can readily drain the battery while the engine is stopped, by allowing the battery energy to pass back to the stator coils and heat them. Not exactly good for your stator.
Did it take? Having the same challenge with buddies’ S model. Diode test was spec. Grind test on stater was spec. However, stater only produces between them three poles respectively 5, 5.6, and 7.2v ac. I’m thinking for sure stater myself. Let us know! Cheers!!!
Thanks for the helpful video. I’m trying to figure out why my 2009 DRZ suddenly stopped charging the battery. I don’t have the manual . Any chance you could post what the values should read for the diode test and other values if available? Or post a link to those if one is available? Thanks!
Thank you for the video.
So, was it the reg/rec bugging you?
In the first half of the video you only tested 3 of the 6 diodes in a 3-phase rectifier. You should do a similar test again, through the 3 diodes leading to the negative battery lead (ground) like you did on the positive lead. The results should be the opposite of the 3 you tested. That's a total of 12 checks: one check in each of 2 directions of 6 diodes - 3 feeding the positive wire, 3 more feeding the negative wire. If any one of the 6 diodes checks conductive in both directions, or open in both directions, the unit has to be replaced. In that case it can charge during 2 of the 3 phases of rotation, but not charge, or even drain the battery, during the other phase. Thus fooling you into believing it's working when you look at the average running voltage on your voltmeter. Also it can readily drain the battery while the engine is stopped, by allowing the battery energy to pass back to the stator coils and heat them. Not exactly good for your stator.
I think that is happening to me
Did it take? Having the same challenge with buddies’ S model. Diode test was spec. Grind test on stater was spec. However, stater only produces between them three poles respectively 5, 5.6, and 7.2v ac. I’m thinking for sure stater myself. Let us know! Cheers!!!
Ground test on stator II meant. Cheers
Yep those voltages are way too low. Think your onto it
Did this fix issues
You didn't show any readings .. waste of time 👎