Just got my Champion yesterday and this video cleared up a lot of assembly and usage questions. Nobex should provide a DVD of this video instead of their 1 page 'instruction & assembly' guide. Thanks for posting this vid
Are there any metal blades for this saw? My wife and I have been thinking of making some aluminium picture frames and we wouldn't want to buy a chopsaw just for that purpose although I totally would 😆😆
@@AutodidactEngineer I was looking closely at buying a Nobex saw because I was going to make up about aluminium window frames. I settled for a cheap option and bought a plastic Mitre Saw Box and a simple hacksaw. Obviously it took much longer as opposed to an electric chop saw. I got the window frames done and saved $2,500 as asked for by a contractor. I have time to go slow and steady. The plastic Mitre Box disintegrated soon after, but it was only a $8 spend.
I have an older version of this saw and it appears that this updated model has a couple of the same minor shortcomings. First, the guides allow the saw blade to drop low enough to cut into the recessed area of the metal base, resulting in numerous kerf scars in the center depression. This can be averted by cutting a quarter - round shaped piece of thin plywood tack glued there to serve as a sacrificial plate.
Be sure to use hardwood plywood or 1/8 micarta which will last longer & still not damage the blade. I went thru the 1st piece of ply I used (poplar) after only 3 or 4 cuts, despite sneaking up on the end of the cut before it broke through. Those blades are very sharp.
Frank - the guides slide very easily up and down on the rails, but the fit is pretty tight so nothing side-to-side that I particularly noticed. Honestly, I wasn't checking for dead-on accuracy, so I can't speak from testing. But the design is solid and the execution seems good. Give Highland a call if you have questions - they are great.
Be aware only the Champion has the optional ferrous cutting blade. The other models only have a non ferrous option for cutting alu, brass copper etc. Something else that is very important is ONLY the Champion allows for locking the saw at odd mitre angles, the other models have automatic presets but no locking device so you cant lock the saw at, for example,12 degree`s. This is a major issue unless you only need to cut standard angles. I modded my proman so it can be locked at any angle but it should have been a standard feature imho. Its also modded to cut +/- 65 degrees instead of the standard +/- 45 degrees but thats another story ;)
im curious why you would go with this versus a miter saw, since my whole theory with a box is to shrink space required which this doesnt improve much on
Second, the stamped steel legs should be replaced with shop - made mounting logs bolted to the Champion's base and screwed to an MDF board for clamping to the bench. This greatly reduces the saws tendency to chatter and stall while cutting. Other than these 2 relatively minor (and easily corrected) annoyances, this is a very useful and accurate tool. Mine is over 20 years old and still going strong.
I got one last summer for cutting trim on the Toy boxes that I make it allows me to make the tightest corners and though I most times use a clamp to hold the Oak trim that I use I can shave the smallest amount to get a perfect fit. And I did not buy this model but the Entry level model 90 it is a great tool. I don't think that a power saw would do as well. A great tool much better than the Plastic one's that many of us have bought.
I recently got part of this set up. I have the base set up, but not the actual saw, or the guides that hold the saw and slide over the poles. I have tried to find a way to just buy the saw itself, but I am not having much luck. Does anyone know of any site or store that would sell just the saw?
The little clip that hooks the saw to the box for transport is not designed correctly. It is not strong enough to lift the box and saw if the box is mounted on a board. I mounted mine on 3/4" plywood and the clip just springs off when I lift it. Highland, please forward to Nobex and ask them to redesign the clip so it works - then have them send you a supply for your customers.
Fine video. Thank you! May I ask the width of the your base? It looks like 10" or so. I need to know if this unit will mount on a shelf in my van. Thank you!
There seemed to be an awful lot of play side to side with the blade guides and the rail..?? Kind of makes me leery on the overall accuracy especially on repeatability either by eye or using the stop. Frank
WTF, I know Lee Valley sells the saw and extra blades; try contacting their customer service. They might be able to steer you toward a source for parts if not offer them outright.
Seriously? Why spend a pocket full of cash on this junk when you can spend the same for a restored Stanly miter box from the early part of the last century. They are solid and work extremely well. This thing is just cheaply made as can be seen and heard in the video.
Very shitty saw, the handle brakes on these within few days, mine doesn't cuts even square! and it's of very bad quality overall, I still use it for small trim pieces where the half a degree accuracy (which it can't do!) doesn't matters much.
Just got my Champion yesterday and this video cleared up a lot of assembly and usage questions. Nobex should provide a DVD of this video instead of their 1 page 'instruction & assembly' guide. Thanks for posting this vid
I am sold ! You are a very good at explaining the final points of such a simple, but also complex device. Thank you very much.
Are there any metal blades for this saw?
My wife and I have been thinking of making some aluminium picture frames and we wouldn't want to buy a chopsaw just for that purpose although I totally would 😆😆
@@AutodidactEngineer I was looking closely at buying a Nobex saw because I was going to make up about aluminium window frames. I settled for a cheap option and bought a plastic Mitre Saw Box and a simple hacksaw. Obviously it took much longer as opposed to an electric chop saw. I got the window frames done and saved $2,500 as asked for by a contractor. I have time to go slow and steady. The plastic Mitre Box disintegrated soon after, but it was only a $8 spend.
Great video. I think those angled clamps are set like that to clamp the compound miters (and crown)
I have an older version of this saw and it appears that this updated model has a couple of the same minor shortcomings. First, the guides allow the saw blade to drop low enough to cut into the recessed area of the metal base, resulting in numerous kerf scars in the center depression. This can be averted by cutting a quarter - round shaped piece of thin plywood tack glued there to serve as a sacrificial plate.
Be sure to use hardwood plywood or 1/8 micarta which will last longer & still not damage the blade. I went thru the 1st piece of ply I used (poplar) after only 3 or 4 cuts, despite sneaking up on the end of the cut before it broke through. Those blades are very sharp.
Now the miter saw can cut at any angle that is not preset but will it tighten at any angle so it doesn't move, like on your Radial and table saw?
What is the maximum height of wood that you can saw with this?
Thank you very much
Frank - the guides slide very easily up and down on the rails, but the fit is pretty tight so nothing side-to-side that I particularly noticed. Honestly, I wasn't checking for dead-on accuracy, so I can't speak from testing. But the design is solid and the execution seems good. Give Highland a call if you have questions - they are great.
Thank you very much , I was looking for a metal mitre saw review and you did a great job .
Keep up the good work .
Be aware only the Champion has the optional ferrous cutting blade. The other models only have a non ferrous option for cutting alu, brass copper etc.
Something else that is very important is ONLY the Champion allows for locking the saw at odd mitre angles, the other models have automatic presets but no locking device so you cant lock the saw at, for example,12 degree`s. This is a major issue unless you only need to cut standard angles.
I modded my proman so it can be locked at any angle but it should have been a standard feature imho. Its also modded to cut +/- 65 degrees instead of the standard +/- 45 degrees but thats another story ;)
These types of saws are not accurate and the blades are very flimsy
im curious why you would go with this versus a miter saw, since my whole theory with a box is to shrink space required which this doesnt improve much on
Can we use for upvc profile.
Second, the stamped steel legs should be replaced with shop - made mounting logs bolted to the Champion's base and screwed to an MDF board for clamping to the bench. This greatly reduces the saws tendency to chatter and stall while cutting. Other than these 2 relatively minor (and easily corrected) annoyances, this is a very useful and accurate tool. Mine is over 20 years old and still going strong.
I got one last summer for cutting trim on the Toy boxes that I make it allows me to make the tightest corners and though I most times use a clamp to hold the Oak trim that I use I can shave the smallest amount to get a perfect fit. And I did not buy this model but the Entry level model 90 it is a great tool. I don't think that a power saw would do as well. A great tool much better than the Plastic one's that many of us have bought.
I recently got part of this set up. I have the base set up, but not the actual saw, or the guides that hold the saw and slide over the poles. I have tried to find a way to just buy the saw itself, but I am not having much luck. Does anyone know of any site or store that would sell just the saw?
Do you see a solution for crown molding standard spring angles on the Champion: 38/52 degrees?
Where can I get Japanese blades? The standard blade isn't great.
The little clip that hooks the saw to the box for transport is not designed correctly. It is not strong enough to lift the box and saw if the box is mounted on a board. I mounted mine on 3/4" plywood and the clip just springs off when I lift it. Highland, please forward to Nobex and ask them to redesign the clip so it works - then have them send you a supply for your customers.
Ye machine kaa price kitna hoga
Humko ye machine Lena hai
Please sir price bataiye
exactly what i needed, thanks
Fine video. Thank you! May I ask the width of the your base? It looks like 10" or so. I need to know if this unit will mount on a shelf in my van. Thank you!
The miter saw table is 20" long x 4-1/2" wide.
Thanks pal. Nice review.
Excellent tutorial..
Much better than the instructions that came with the unit!
I forgot I mounted it to a piece of plywood and the put a scrap fence on the edge so that it registers my bench.
There seemed to be an awful lot of play side to side with the blade guides and the rail..?? Kind of makes me leery on the overall accuracy especially on repeatability either by eye or using the stop.
Frank
Nice hand mitre saw tool
Great job. Thank you.
I got one of these from lee valley .i took it back as the quality was very poor.
Looks cheap
Great review
I think you just sold me on these. I was going to buy a power mitre saw... Not anymore!
Good for trim out
Love the music!
I need something like this that can cut 20 degree
Make a jig!
I need spare part
WTF, I know Lee Valley sells the saw and extra blades; try contacting their customer service. They might be able to steer you toward a source for parts if not offer them outright.
B
Seriously? Why spend a pocket full of cash on this junk when you can spend the same for a restored Stanly miter box from the early part of the last century. They are solid and work extremely well. This thing is just cheaply made as can be seen and heard in the video.
Very shitty saw, the handle brakes on these within few days, mine doesn't cuts even square! and it's of very bad quality overall, I still use it for small trim pieces where the half a degree accuracy (which it can't do!) doesn't matters much.