How to Wax Harden Leather SCA Armor
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- Please note the hazard of using open flame, there are other methods to warm wax. Please take precautions in where you work on your leather. KEEP AN EYE ON THE FLAME AND WAX AT ALL TIMES!!! Wouldn't hurt to have a fire extinguisher around too.
This is video of one way how SCA Members harden their leather armor pieces. If you have any questions please let me know. Please like and comment if you enjoy what you see. More will come as we work though the projects.
Talks by Skallagrimr and question from Rory.
Society for Creative Anachronism SCA
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Shire of Ardanroe
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Izewolf Hunter
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"It has a very low flash point and could actually catch on fire."
Yeah, and if you then forget that it has a lot of oil and try to put it out with water, you will have several meter tall flames and a kitchen covered in wax. Don't ask me how I know....
heh I know that one too.... the fire fighters in town still know me on sight lol
Couple questions, and I'm a budding leather worker, so feel free to explain as much as possible!
-What tempurature is the wax? I know it's sitting on your stove, but is it low,med,high heat?
-Is there any way to reverse the bacon effect used, unhardened leather armor has during or before this process?
-How would you harden a breastplate or something else that is too big for any practical sized pot?
-Would you recommend wax hardening a kidney belt? It's my understanding that a kidney belt needs to be flexible so I can move in combat. My current kidney belt is a bit wider than most, and covers from the bottom of my ribcage to my hips (I'm a skinny dude). Would it be better or worse to harden this?
-Can you still paint decorative colors (not dye) on the leather afterward, and if so, how do you keep it on the leather? Is it better to do this beforehand? How do you seal the color so you can keep that decorative paint on the armor?
Thank you so much for this tutorial! I love learning about armor making. As a suggestion for improvement, better lighting than your kitchen, a steady camera (perhapds on a tripod) and better focus would all help. Also, you don't necessarily need to speed up the video of watching bubbles, just transition to about 10 seconds before you remove it!
Thanks so much!
I don't think I missed it, but how much wax per cup of water, or per gallon of water do you use? Is there a pound for pound or some sort of measurement on the amount of wax?
thank you, there are other methods to use. But please be cautious with the wax. However, this is one way, and good luck with lamellar scales.
hi. maybe I missed this part and if I did I'm sorry, but how much wax do you use and is it only wax or mixed with water?
I have a leather dog leash that has gotten really floppy over the years and I would like it to be really stiff and I am wondering, if I had the same set up with the pot, would I coil it inside the wax and then let it dry straight? If I did it, what would you recommend doing to the leather before dunking it, would I clean it? What would I clean it with, just water or some type of leather cleaner? Thanks
Bazubands are, for all intents and purposes, a 14th century metallic armour from the middle east (possibly later). However, there are some bazuband-esque leather findings in the baltic states from sround the same period as well as in Germany (same period). The german and baltic ones seem to have been combined with floating elbow cops when looking at effigies.
A lot of viking reenactors and scadians use them becaude it's a hardened leather defense that stealths well, even if there is nothing to suggest vikings wore leather armour. It's a modern recreationism, but as long as one knows that, it's a relatively easy solution for arm defenses and one should fight in what makes one comfortable.
This is only one way to "stiffen" leather but is NOT the best way ( but it is dangerous with the flammable wax) The best and simplest way is to wet the veg tan leather and "bake" it for 3 mins in an oven at 200 F,in the shape you want, then let it cool ( and dry more) on the bench; then you can dye it and put finish on it. It will be harder than your "wax" hardening job and will not weep all the time.
Is this 100% melted wax?
great tutorial, thanks a lot!
Do you actually have to re-wax them or can you just redistribute the existing wax with a hot air gun
Hold that fucking camera steady..!!
great vid; I was thinking of using an old laundry wash tank so it's big enough for cuirass's (plural?) over coals outside once I get into my own place (apartment codes...). will just need to fabricate a lid for when not in use. I know many kingdoms require steel in the gorget, elbows, and kneecaps and the helm to be made entirely of steel-though a thin leather wrap over it can be done for cosmetic value for any exposed steel if going for the full leather look. I hear carnuba wax works well too as Rhino2104 pointed out, but I have NO experience with hardening leather...yet.
another option which some of my friend do here, and that is go to good will, or pawn shops for the old cast iron pots. Something that can hold the wax, and then when you use it, it is only for that use. But i can see how the larger pot for the larger pieces would make it easier to work them. Make sure to read, more, or find someone in your local group to help till you have a good understanding. Once i get my new half gauntlets I will be doing a new video for this process, because of all the suggestions I have received. So please be careful, and good luck, and thank you for the comment.
This helped a lot, thanks. Now I can finally wax harden my new helmet.
Better Idea; Boiled Leather! No fire hazard, and was actually used as Armour.
Yes, but it´s much harder to make without destroying the lether.
Major points for the Paul Stanley solo album in the background...:-D
Hi I want to make a leather Tsuba (hand guard) for my wooden sword. what I would like to know is I am joining two pieces of leather together. I want to glue it together for strength. This may sound stupid but should I glue it together first or wax harden the two pieces separately then glue it together before stitching?
I am thinking about joining the SCA, but doesn't leather have to be like 11 oz ("heavy leather") according to the Marshal's handbook, or will your 8 oz wax hardened be considered ridged ?
I make paracord bullwhips, and the final part of the process I use is waxing. I went to the local resale and bought an electric roasting pan. much larger area to work with, no open flame, lid, adjustable thermostat. $10. Just a suggestion. Wonderful video, full of information.
Around the holidays there are these large pots for deep frying turkeys. It has a propane burner and is obviously used outdoors. This may be a faster alternative than having to dunk portions of the leather to harden it because you can just dunk and be done with it. the downside is that you would have to get a-lot of wax and I doubt it could be used like a double boiler without being modified..... food for thought. Additionally have a class K fire extinguisher around wouldn't be a bad idea because using water during a fire involving fats and oils.... well its just bad.....
Good video. A couple of points if I may. I'm not trying to sound like an ass it is just the things that I've found in the hardening and building of my lamellar and demi gauntlets.
1) Use carnuba wax. Also known as palm wax. It's much less prone to catching on fire since it isn't petroleum based and it has a higher melting temperature and makes the armor hold up better.
2) It isn't the air being forced out that causes shrinkage. It is more based on the temperature of the wax that causes it
First off, no I don't take it like your being an ass. I know that there are may ways to do something. This day a fellow member in my SCA group was teaching his method he uses. Since I have made this and posted in a SCA fourm, I have gotten many suggestions. With that I am working on an update video to this one to show all these different other ways or slight changes. But thank you for taking the time to watch and add your knowledge to this video. Thank you,
Yes you are right, but here in Glenn Abhann, 8 oz harden leather is considered enough ridged material. But please consult with your local marshals to see if your kingdom has the same approval of thickness of leather. Remember the Marshal's Handbook should be applied first and then local kingdom and group levels second. Well good luck and thank you for the question, I will be making sure this type of question will be covered in future views I do.
Just want to say thank you! I recently purchased leather for armor. It is a bit too flimsy to take a look I want, and this is an excellent way to harden it. Thanks for the video!
Thanks, but do practice on small pieces, for thickness change, and size. It can make an impact on leather. Good luck with the project, and thanks again for watching
Awesome work and tips @Izewolf Hunter.
I have a question, if I mold a musculata into vegan tanned leather, if i want to wax harden it, will it loose the shape or will it maintain?
By the way, I couldn't figure out, maybe i missed it, does the flame has to be on while doing this to keep the wax liquid or off?
Thanks a million,
Best Regards from Portugal
When I have done this I have used an old ACE wrap to hold the piece to the form I am using so it keeps its shape as it dries. I also do not add the straps & buckles until after I harden the piece. If I have to re-dip the pieces later I just remove the rivets & straps, by the time they need to be rehardened the starps usually need replacing anyway. Althouhg I have found in hot climates the leather softens much more quickly.
This is a bit off the armor subject but maybe not, considering that swords may have leather sheaths, I make knife sheaths and water shape them over either the knife, wrapped in layers of saran wrap, or a wooden mould of the weapon using a wood burnisher. After shaping the sheath or even a "possibles" pouch, would there be any advantage or benefit to hot waxing the sheath after it is dry from the shaping?? I usually do not have a problem with losing the shape of the sheath once it is dry and moulded, but I wonder if there is some advantage to using hot wax to further protect or water proof the sheath?? I usually coat the finished sheath in Staples "Bowling Alley" paste wax and finish with a brisk buff when it dries. Any thoughts or comments for or against???
Hey mate I was wondering but does this work with 'faux leather' or does it have to be the real stuff?
Also where can you get leather from, like a really large sheet of it for crafting with?
I've wax hardened leather scales for lamellar before, but that was almost 20 years ago! Thanks for posting the vid, it was a good refresher. I'm currently working on another set of leather lamellar, arms and legs, and needed the quick tutorial.
Not a problem. I was just trying to help. BTW, wax hardening is awesome. My lamellar is about as rigid as ABS or HDPE plastic, is only slightly heavier, and looks so much nicer. And since I mixed in natural beeswax it smells nice too.
very cool. in your opinion, how long would this process hold up for a leather brim hat with just occasional wear and in rain and elements?
3) If you use a mix of beeswax and palm wax you can reharden them in the oven without the need to redip them. About 200* on a cookie sheet for 15 minutes but no more than 20 and they will reharden.
I have just done it! Absolutely awesome and so easy, but I boiled my trial vambraces in paraffin wax and baked 15 min at 200deg.Only my trial leather mind you, going to cut out the definitive vambraces now. I wrapped the trial piece around my arm and over the padding I use and gave it a 'worst case scenario series of impacts' first with
a. Steel ruler which scuffed up the leather but didn't feel a thing
b. Gave my arm a beating with my steel multi grips, again no damage to my arm yes I could feel the blows but not painful by any means and did not mark my arms in any way.
c. My wife then gave my forearm a flogging with my bamboo Shinai, it dented the vambraces a bit but no real damage to me or the vambraces. I then reheated the oven and baked them again and now as good as new.
All of my tests that I did in my lounge room I feel could be considered what I would say would be 'worst case' in that at no time do I get hit as hard as I was hitting my self and I wasn't moving defending or doing anything too mitigate the impacts I was receiving. I would say that it would have limited though much better than nothing protection against edged weapons but for the blunt training weapons that I use and that are used against me I feel very happy with my wax boiled and roasted leather Vambraces. So many thanks Izewolf Hunter for the tips and the inspiration to have a go and succeed. I am chuffed to bits.
so, if I have understood well: you simply put leather into boiling wax until you don't see bubles no more? Is fire turned on during the process?
if you immerse and shape your leather with 150 degree water air dry then wax bath air dry DO NOT wipe off excess put item in oven for no more than 15 minutes at 100 degrees THEN wipe excess off you will wind up with a much more rigid strong product without burning or making them brittle
I use a six ounce leather for bracers. Will wax harding make it safe for heavy sparing?
I think it would but would need a bigger setup to cover the larger area. Unless you take the pieces and harden them before final assembly.
hi awesome tutorial, got a question if I may, how would you harden a fur lined bracer, would you harden then attach the fur or brush the wax on??
sorry if its a daft thing to ask I'm really new to this ☺
For my kingdom, Glenn Abhann it is enough harden this way. But I ask that you get with a local Marshal or Knight Marshal for what your kingdom requires for protection. Because every kingdom is different when it comes to interpretation of the Marshal's Handbook.
well the wax mess up the leather has places that are panted. and what happens if the leather gets hot,well the wax come out
Thank you, and great to hear David, Start with SCA.org, and look up the group in your area, and from there you can email the group leaders to help get you to the right meeting place. Or find the next event and show up and start talking to people. They are always helpful and willing to share information. So good luck and remember to have fun, as you see in my other videos I still have lots of fun.
Very helpful, thank you for posting. To be honest, I will start very small with a scrap piece. Though it seems there is really no magic or witchcraft behind the process, just a lot of experience.
thanks, I'm going to harden three leather tankards made at a leather workshop. I've never done it before and two of the tankards belong to other students, so I really appreciate your tutorial!
Very nice tutorial. Is leather elbows allowed for heavy fighting?
It looks like you are using ordinary candle wax. Wouldn't bees wax be a lot stronger? Granted it is quite expensive. Have you experimented with other agents, like lindseed oil? One big plus i see with this kind of armor is that it is water resistant. Actually pretty weather friendly compared to metal i would imagine.
the flame was on during this video recording, but please note that the wax is flammable and the heat of the wax should be watched closely. Also with the leather while you place it in the wax, you should watch the rate of bubbles. You don't want it to trickle out, as in the video we took them out after a level off of bubbling. But it will come down to trail and error to find the right rate for you. Remember if you let out too much bubbles then it will damage the leather. Good Luck and thanks
Have you tried using a press on the armor before plunging it into the boiling water?
so that it sinks with the press already on
very informative thanks for sharing.....MABUHAY KA!!!
i wanted to give this method a try is there a good temp you want to keep the wax at while hardening or is it just melted
I heard you can bake the leather in a oven....but i like this idea better.
What would happen to the leather if you used a colored candel?
it will darken your leather
does the leather get harder if you dip it twice?
could you use a shoe brush instead of a rag? seems like it may be faster.
Nicely done! I'm considering a variation on this to produce a leather lamellar
Awesome! I'm actually interested in joining the SCA myself. Still learning a lot though.
Will this same technique work with a torso piece?
I may have missed it but how hot do you get your wax before you start the dipping should i bring it to a boil or keep it at low just wondering cause the buckle was hot also helped me make the decision to wear gloves
+fox suichi Maybe boiing it would ruin the process, I think staying in low would be better
Very helpful, thank you :)
I was wondering, what is your recommendation for leather lames for lamellar? Should they be waxed first, or after?
Also, I live quite near the beach, so the risk of salt in the air is high... Do you know how well, if at all, waxing leather protects it from beachy nastiness? haha
Izewolf Hunter
what type of leather did you use?
First I am not sure what Faux Leather is so I will be researching some on that, and two, my group here gets the sheets of leather Tanny leather or other craft stores. Here we have a local leather shop, so we have some options here. just remember spacing to maximize your leather use. Good luck, and thanks for the comment
Faux leather is usually a printed vinyl plastic. Very pliable, most of the time laminated with a woven poly fiber cloth on the backside to keep the product from over stretching. Some people that upholster seats for motorcycles or boats use a "4 way stretch" vinyl, and all that really means is that the poly cloth backing can stretch(limited) across the warp axis and the weft axis.
Explanation out of the way: This would not be a product to even think of getting hot; plastic shrinks, melts, etc... faux leather would be esthetically pleasing stretched over metal, but without proper edge termination and general lacking in durability, you wouldn't get very far past a period check.
where do I find patterns
Hi, there, I had a question. I was trying to wax harden two pieces of leather that were the same size and shape. One came out fabulous, real smooth and just looked perfect. The second one, kind of came out puffy and seemed to have too much wax in it. I tried to mess with it to fix it, by scraping off the excess wax, but it just started to frizz the fibers and I dipped it again and it really shrunk and curled up a lot on the edges. What could have gone wrong? Thanks
Hang the leather up and use a hairdryer or heat gun to melt and blow off the excess wax. Be careful (esp with a heat gun) and don't scorch the leather.
As for the cause it sounds like the leather might have been old and drier out or could have been something to do with the tanning process. Something done or not done right.
It was a piece of cheap veg tan from *andy. And it was newly bought, but who knows how old it was. I tried what you said and the second one came out well. Thank you, I appreciate the response!
Flott myndband Skallagrímur
How well do candles work?
I would not recommend candles as many companies have additives in the candle other than just wax, you can easily purchase beeswax at a hobby lobby store of sorts or the internet.
Does anyone think this would work for fake leathers like suedecloth...?
Faux leather is fake leather:)
what do you use this armor for? jus a hobby or practical use?
Matt Bowie SCA. Mostly for costume.
Is there any way of doing this with a gas stove?
Heat the pot up before putting wax and water in it.
Thanks, mate :)
By heating wax directly, you risk a nasty flash fire. Better to sit the pan in another pan ofwater
I have heated wax for 30 years with flame. NOT an issue.
Is that all wax in the pot or do you add water, if so whats the ratio ?
How hot is the stove ? Low Medium High ?
How long do you have the leather in the wax? :)
and witch temperature do you use? :)