I also purchased the Arrma ARA311231 and they fit perfectly and work well. If I remember correctly the ones you tried and they did not work were the HR or hot racing ones which were for the granite grom.
Mine were just miss-packaged. I ended up using the Mojaves shafts and used the Arrma kits wheel cups. Alas, I did blow them yesterday so just installed the RCAWD ones yesterday and so far so good. Dropped right in and seem to take a beating! :)
Same thing happened on my Mojave where the plastic cup gave out on my stock cvds, so gotta get myself some metal cups and granite cvds front and rear cause I just put metal granite arms on my Mojave which are considerably longer. I got the same off brand aftermarket differentials and didn't like the Phillips screws those use so I put the metal output cups and spider gears into the stock differentials because i also stripped the stock plastic spider gears in both diffs and so I could use the stock hex screws and put some medium thread lock on them, haven't had a diff cup come loose yet. My wheels are completely bald now :(
I the same diffs and they have given me no problems. I opened them up and put silicone earplugs in them and Loctite on all of the screws but that’s in my NASCAR
Excuse me sir how did you mount that fan by the motor? I have a 1010 motor and I can't find a heat sink or fan mount that will work for that size motor. I see your install looks sort of like the stock location. How'd you do that? Any info would be greatly appreciated 👍
For the Rx you can use the 315 or the 6200 if you want gyro. Any current Spektrum radio will bind to them save for the SLT2. OR you can use any radio system you like. I have seen people even use the Traxxas TQi radios with great sucsess.
@TheDudeRc Thanks for the reply. I want to install a brushless setup and was thinking 3800kv to keep it from cogging. Good to know the 5400kv does not cog.
Are the China diffs really that bad? I want to run these on my stock Mojave because of the lack of metal ones from backorder-Arrma here in Europe. No Brushless upgrade planned (for now). Thank you for the video!
Yes they are. They dont seal well, are noisy, throw screws all the time and are of just poor quality. I figured for $9 i would try them out but they are not any good. Hope i was able to save you some money!
The diffs are alright if you're willing to re-do them. They fit the stock diff screws, so just use those. Get plenty of loctite on them and torque them down good. Add plenty of thic grease inside or some silicone earplugs, anything else will leak, they're not supposed to be sealed. For the outcups grtting loose, sometimes the case where the bearing goes needs to be sanded down so the cups don't clamp it between the main bevel gears. I'm running them no problem and they're stupidly durable after those mods@@TheDudeRc
A bit but you can change the fluid to suit your taste. I think in the end I used 50wt oil all around and that seems to work great. No dramatic bouncing when jumping and is very stable in the corners.
Stock diff hardware fits in the Ali diff from what I'm told, worth a try.
I also purchased the Arrma ARA311231 and they fit perfectly and work well. If I remember correctly the ones you tried and they did not work were the HR or hot racing ones which were for the granite grom.
Mine were just miss-packaged. I ended up using the Mojaves shafts and used the Arrma kits wheel cups. Alas, I did blow them yesterday so just installed the RCAWD ones yesterday and so far so good. Dropped right in and seem to take a beating! :)
@@TheDudeRc Cool! Im glad you got it sorted out. have fun!
I purchase same part no. Axles and they fit, may be a wrong packaging issue
Same thing happened on my Mojave where the plastic cup gave out on my stock cvds, so gotta get myself some metal cups and granite cvds front and rear cause I just put metal granite arms on my Mojave which are considerably longer. I got the same off brand aftermarket differentials and didn't like the Phillips screws those use so I put the metal output cups and spider gears into the stock differentials because i also stripped the stock plastic spider gears in both diffs and so I could use the stock hex screws and put some medium thread lock on them, haven't had a diff cup come loose yet. My wheels are completely bald now :(
I the same diffs and they have given me no problems. I opened them up and put silicone earplugs in them and Loctite on all of the screws but that’s in my NASCAR
Excuse me sir how did you mount that fan by the motor? I have a 1010 motor and I can't find a heat sink or fan mount that will work for that size motor. I see your install looks sort of like the stock location. How'd you do that? Any info would be greatly appreciated 👍
I just hot glued it in place where the stock fan went.
@@TheDudeRc appreciate it man
I installed that kit on my Mojave and it fit just fine?
all this car needs is skid plates. in two uses I have destroyed the bottom and front plastic skids
Completely agree. If you're running on dirt and rocks the bottom, especially rear, gets absolutely destroyed.
What transmitter and controller is recommended? Can the stock one be used?
For the Rx you can use the 315 or the 6200 if you want gyro. Any current Spektrum radio will bind to them save for the SLT2. OR you can use any radio system you like. I have seen people even use the Traxxas TQi radios with great sucsess.
What amp/volt do you charge those batteries?
2.2 amps
Where did you get the pinion for that motor?
Horizon/Arrma
5400kv motor? How bad does that thing cog? Does it cog at all in the dirt? The street seems to be more forgiving to cars that cog.
Haven't noticed any cogging. With the Firma 2-1 it cogged pretty bad but this one seems fine.
@TheDudeRc Thanks for the reply. I want to install a brushless setup and was thinking 3800kv to keep it from cogging. Good to know the 5400kv does not cog.
Are the China diffs really that bad? I want to run these on my stock Mojave because of the lack of metal ones from backorder-Arrma here in Europe. No Brushless upgrade planned (for now).
Thank you for the video!
Yes they are. They dont seal well, are noisy, throw screws all the time and are of just poor quality. I figured for $9 i would try them out but they are not any good. Hope i was able to save you some money!
The diffs are alright if you're willing to re-do them. They fit the stock diff screws, so just use those. Get plenty of loctite on them and torque them down good. Add plenty of thic grease inside or some silicone earplugs, anything else will leak, they're not supposed to be sealed. For the outcups grtting loose, sometimes the case where the bearing goes needs to be sanded down so the cups don't clamp it between the main bevel gears. I'm running them no problem and they're stupidly durable after those mods@@TheDudeRc
Is this esc+motor from the WLtoys buggy?
What receiver are you using? ( gyro?)
The 315, no gyro
Did your fan just bolt in? I haven’t been able to mount one in there other than sticky tape.
Hot glue
How much stiffer are those shocks? The stock ones aren’t quite stiff enough for how I drive mine
A bit but you can change the fluid to suit your taste. I think in the end I used 50wt oil all around and that seems to work great. No dramatic bouncing when jumping and is very stable in the corners.
@@TheDudeRc ok cool thank you
What size fan is on the esc?
lets roll
How tight did you make your servo saver?
Its at stock tension.
Can I use a 35mm fan instead of a 30mm fan?
Doubtful. The 30mm just fits. Dont think an extra 5mm will fit.
I think they sent you the wrong axles those should fit my friend