Rhodes Shaper Restoration (Part 2)
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- Опубликовано: 8 июл 2024
- Part 2 of my circa 1920 7" Rhodes metal shaper restoration. This time around I machine all the parts I need to replace what's broken, worn out, or missing to bring this machine back to life. And an adventure gone awry with lost foam casting zinc, but it all works out in the end.
In case you missed it, the first part of the restoration is here: • Rhodes Shaper Restorat...
Everything you wanted to know about Rhodes shapers: www.eurospares.com/shapers.htm
If you like what I'm doing here and find some value in it, consider supporting my work on Patreon: / jeremymakesthings
I promise I'll still mostly make stuff out of rusty junk and not just buy shiny things with your money. 
Хобби
Man, my heart sank when you showed how far off the center was…… and then you brought us back to life with a joke 😂🤣😂 Brilliant 😜
Jeremy, I have to say that you have the most abused garbage recycling machine (mill) in the business. The junk you ask that machine to cut is beyond belief. Beautiful results not withstanding.
The shaper looks great and having watched some later videos it turned out great. A useful addition to the shop.
Nice save on the door.
You have some serious skills, some of those parts turned out beautiful.
That whole machine is a beatuy now, I can't wait to see it in action.
I am not convinced that 1045 and quarter to 11 are the same in this situation, but I am not an expert.
Ahh! The cliffhanger! :) Beautiful work Jeremy. What a great range of skills you've got for this kind of work. Looking forward to Part 3
Lovely to see a craftsman bringing old tooling back to life
There is a TON of work in this pretty short vid, well done.
Brilliant work. Enjoyed watching all the different machining processes. Cheers Tony
Good stuff man, I'm excited for part 3!
Your videos are such a delight, verry original style, entertaning and genuine. Keep it up!
If you have an Ace Hardware near you, or a Menard's, they each sell taper pins in smaller quantities.
That door was epic 👍👍😎👍👍
nice save on the door
Jeremy, regarding that bloody collet chuck... If you want to get that crap out, do this...
First mill longer than normal t-nuts for your mill table as not to blow it out... Affix your vise with the newly made longer t-nuts and whatever bolts you use for your vise... Then take a long nut with any thread pitch that you feel like single pointing or even have a die for... Take a rod of silversteel that fits your collet chuck on the lathe and on the mill, turn that and thread it into a bolt fitting the bought long nut with a smooth shaft on the other end... Take the bolt outta lathe, bring it over to the mill, put the bolt in the collet and gently clasp it in, then screw the bolt while loose in the chuck, in the long nut that you put in your vise all the way... Clamp the bolt in the collet chuck beastly and without mercy... clamp the nut in the vise equally savagely... That being done, now you can use the knee of your mill, rather than quill, which you will lock firmly but not savagely as that is a machine component and requires certain levels of sense... That being said and done, now loosen your mill chuck by removing the thread-bar that holds your tooling in the spindle and slowly lower the knee down and see it extract the collet chuck by precise downward force without damage to your machine... If you want to, you can first mill a shoulder in the long nut that sits in the vise if your jaws have an overbite and you can utilize that as a point of extra security rather than having to clamp the vise savagely as not to have the nut slip upwards... You can also spray wd40 down the threadbar hole and leave it be, to potentially aid in release from the spindle...
All the best!
I’ve tried pulling it out with the knee with some heavy nylon stapes wrapped around it (figuring they would fail before doin damage to the machine). As hard as I could crank the knee down, nothing gave. Also, you mentioned loosening the drawbar…I don’t have one. Anyone who says a machine taper can’t hold against side loading without one has never seen one stuck this badly.
@@JeremyMakesThings Fucking hell man... i mean, what i said might work, as it would allow the full leverage the system that moves the knee to be exerted, but still, this is some mad shit you are describing... You could also try and buy a small cylinder of nitrogen, turn it upside down to cause liquid rather than gas to blow out, and hose the collet with liquid nitrogen, just protect the mill from it as cast iron of the table might not like such temp shifts if you start pouring liquid n on a single spot... Haha, yeah, true regarding the sideloads, i once stuck a mt2 in a lathe tailstock, but the hollow mt2, not the one with the tail for extraction... Fucking hell was it not moving, and sideloads didnt account for shit...
Your work is amazing, can't wait for part 3
I'm seriously envious of your skills and dedication on these projects, most impressive. Great to see we share the same choice in machinists jacks (nut and bolt!).
I am enjoying your work. Thanks for the look.
good video jeremy
Looking good. Nice job!
Really great work. Love your handson mentality!
Excellent
Wasn't expecting to see casting or blacksmithing, but hey, whatever is needed... 👍
That is great! I love that you were able to save that failed-ish casting! 1 thing to take a look at is making a vise. Normal milling vises on these are pretty terrible, so you want a purpose-made shaper vise. Sadly, the design of most of the 7" shaper vises is ALSO pretty terrible, but if you're interested, I have a 28" shaper that I can snap pictures of as inspiration.
I’ve got a set of plans based on the original Rhodes vise, it actually looks like a really nice design and people say nice things about them, so it’s on the list of things to do.
@@JeremyMakesThings Ah, great! I used the vise off of the Atlas 7" and it was pretty bad for rigidity, but not sure I've seen the Rhodes one.
Thank You for the video, you have many skills.
Great video man, keep'um coming....
I enjoy your videos very much, keep them coming!
Awesome is best description
Quarter of 11!!!
Yay 😍
I didn't know you had a CNC! Neat.
Now it motor time bby!
Tell ya something else I found tho remove that collet chuck from the mill is a ball joint tool the pickle fork mine was super stuck the other day wound up destroying my draw bar trying to get it out resorted to that and it worked like a charm actually used less force then beating straight down on the draw bar
I’ve tried that one. No luck. ☹️
Phenomenal job! That shaper came out gorgeous.
I've got a Rhodes shaper just like yours (only not as pretty), and it's a fun little machine to run. I plan on scraping mine in, eventually... Though similar to yours, mine could definitely use a new cross feed leadscrew, and the elevating leadscrew is pretty worn, as well. Though I've added DRO to the cross rail and table elevation, so the backlash isn't much of an issue.
I've also made a quick-change tool post for my Rhodes, and have a few videos on the making of it. I'll gladly share my CAD drawings, if you're interested.
Really nice work on that beautiful little shaper. Until you pulled out the bondo, I feared you were going to leave that door as is, and I thought, "Okay, that's going too far!" I love your channel, but you might consider putting a notice at the beginning of each video that says, "Warning: Some viewers may find the occasional images of road-kill machine tools disturbing."
That's beautiful work Jeremy. I don't know how much time you did spend on this project, but it must be a lot :)
I started on August, and it’s almost done.
Praise the RUclips algorhythm.
Have you come across any "chilled " cast iron that is too hard to machine? Since you have that heat treating oven I suppose you could temper any of that back to a machinable state.
I’ve hit a few spots here and there that seemed harder than others, could have been a chilled margin, or maybe just a combination of rust and crud that was hard on high speed steel tools. Nothing carbide couldn’t take care of though.
1045, quarter of 11, I see what you did there.
Seems like all these lathe attachments are coming in clutch on this project. Did you make them specifically for this?
The follow rest, yes. The steady rest was for something else that I’ve put off for now.
The site with the info isn't available anymore. Do you have dimensions for the down feed swivel lock? (I hope I'm naming it correctly)
First comment. Hey. You do great. I like your videos. Keep them up.
3:45 how the chuck is not flying away?
9:39 how that key didnt flew?
Man u have some black magic lathe
What is the top RPM of your logan 200, and did you do anything to increase it?
It should be stock, so 1500 rpm. I’m always hesitant to try to give these old machines more power, since I’m not sure how the bearings and such will like it.
@@JeremyMakesThings That has been my thinking as well. Maybe I've been noticing parts of videos you play back at higher rpm, or your machine/motor just sound different than mine -- I thought during some of your carbide tool usage you were able to run at a higher RPM. It may also be the fact that I still have a leather belt in mine, so I hear the metal every time it comes around
Mine has a automotive serpentine belt (400K5). It was on it when I got the machine.
@@JeremyMakesThings I've got one to put on the machine, yeah. The previous owner gave it to me with a box of spare and broken parts, he never got around to putting it on and so far I haven't either. I'll probably tackle that along with a teardown+clean+inspect of the Logan overall once I get my other lathe working -- that way I can make or repair any parts needed instead of just having a pile of lathe parts I hesitate to put back together as-is
do not ever slam the door it will break
Quarter of eleven 😂