0091 Lumacode by c0pperdragon in the basement, an Apple Mouse replica, T-shirts and more!
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- Опубликовано: 16 окт 2024
- I'm finally getting to experience the awesome Lumecode as a way to get pixel perfect video from our retro computers in a super clever way. It's impressive, a lot like Apple II artifact color, but without all the fringing! Plus we have some cool replica parts and some other nifty stuff.
-- Video Links
Sagan Industries:
sagan-industri...
8-bit Stuff (Replica mice and other stuff)
8bitstuff.com/
www.8bittees.com/
Extron 300A capture device:
www.extron.com...
Lumacode:
github.com/c0p...
c0pperdragon digitizers:
www.tindie.com...
Adrian's Digital Basement Merch store:
my-store-c82bd...
Support the channel on Patreon:
/ adriansdigitalbasement
Adrian's Digital Basement (Main Channel)
/ @adriansdigitalbasement
My GitHub repository:
github.com/mis...
-- Tools
Deoxit D5:
amzn.to/2VvOKy1
store.caig.com/...
O-Ring Pick Set: (I use these to lift chips off boards)
amzn.to/3a9x54J
Elenco Electronics LP-560 Logic Probe:
amzn.to/2VrT5lW
Hakko FR301 Desoldering Iron:
amzn.to/2ye6xC0
Rigol DS1054Z Four Channel Oscilloscope:
www.rigolna.co...
Head Worn Magnifying Goggles / Dual Lens Flip-In Head Magnifier:
amzn.to/3adRbuy
TL866II Plus Chip Tester and EPROM programmer: (The MiniPro)
amzn.to/2wG4tlP
www.aliexpress...
TS100 Soldering Iron:
amzn.to/2K36dJ5
www.ebay.com/i...
EEVBlog 121GW Multimeter:
www.eevblog.co...
DSLogic Basic Logic Analyzer:
amzn.to/2RDSDQw
www.ebay.com/i...
Magnetic Screw Holder:
amzn.to/3b8LOhG
www.harborfrei...
Universal ZIP sockets: (clones, used on my ZIF-64 test machine)
www.ebay.com/i...
RetroTink 2X Upconverter: (to hook up something like a C64 to HDMI)
www.retrotink.com/
Plato (Clone) Side Cutters: (order five)
www.ebay.com/i...
Heat Sinks:
www.aliexpress...
Little squeezy bottles: (available elsewhere too)
amzn.to/3b8LOOI
--- Instructional videos
My video on damage-free chip removal:
• How to remove chips wi...
--- Music
Intro music and other tracks by:
Nathan Divino
@itsnathandivino
There seems to be some confusion in the comments on how USB Type-C power delivery works. The power bank and power supply I was using both support USB Type-C power delivery up to 20 volts and 65 watts. That means when you connect a device that uses the PD protocol, it is able to negotiate a voltage higher than 5 volts. When a power supply supports 20 volts, that means that the possible negotiated voltages (on the original 65 watt power delivery protocol) are 9 volts, 12 volts, 15 volts and 20 volts. If the negotiation does not happen properly, then you end up just getting standard USB 5 volts. I demonstrated running the Apple IIc using a 12-volt USB power delivery cable, but that doesn't mean that the maximum voltage of my power supplies is 12 volts. They go to 20 volts and support all the intermediate voltages in the protocol, including 15 volts.
The reason the adapter was not getting 15 volts was because the type-C cable was not fitting into the connector all the way, which meant the CC lines which are required for negotiation were not making contact. Only the VCC and ground pins were, which is part of the standard as those should connect first before any of the other pins.
Original Apple USB type-C power supplies for the MacBook Pro follow the standard and are able to provide voltages including 9 volts and 12 volts along with a 15 volts that MacBook pros use to charge.
I hope this helps clear up any confusion.
Of course it had to be Apple that had the most up to date specs for USB-C.
Apple has always been ahead of everybody else as far as laptops and accessories go. The MacBook mid-2015 model is still one of the best laptops I've ever used (except for the bulging battery problem on those particular models).
@@rommix0 Apple wasn't alone with it on the Macbook, the Nexus 6P phone had it in 2015 along with other Android phones.
@@rommix0 Well, that is just not true at all. The only thing Apple has been ahead on is marketing and taking away options. And for some reason, Apple customers just loves the removal of options.
I actually think it's that red usb cable you''ve got that's originally for the pinecil that's the problem. I've got the same cable, and I always have an issue with the power cutting out to my pinecil after 10 minutes of use. I noticed in your previous video you were using the red usb cable for capturing the live video feed from the themal camera, and again I think its the cable to blame as in both videos, you 'test' other cables, but in this video you actually dont seem to have any plugged in to a live outlet, and in the thermal camera vid, you don't realise you get a live feed when switching off the screen til after trying other usb cables.
PD is also cable dependent. PD of certain wattage also need cables that are also have active chips. This way if the wires are not capable in supporting the requested wattage, it will not work. Chances are either the cable or power bank did not match the PD request requirements from the device. USB C pins are very thin. Even the slightest amount of smoo will make it not work. You may be able to clean the port and get it working again. In either case the chip in the device most likely is requesting 15v at 45-50 W. It may even be higher. Just remember in PD it the wattage makes to decisions. So you need a cable and PD brick that are at least 50 w or more depending on the chip.The PD standard does not require everything to be active, but it is strongly recommended in higher wattage applications. Some manufactures don't include all the active requirements.
I'm the Todd who sent c0pperdragon the NTSC 6560 to reverse engineer (I had a spare working one). I then did some testing on the prototype and sent him feedback so he could tweak it a little bit and worked with IanSB of the RGBtoHDMI project to improve the palatte a bit, which he then incorporated into the RGBtoHDMI firmware. I also helped some with the TMSdigitizer, getting it to work on the TI-99/4A. i think he did his testing on either a ColecoVision or an MSX machine and the TI was a little different. I've since bought all the different LumaCode digitizers except the PPU one (it didn't exist yet when I was working with him). I've installed all but the C128 digitizer because I don't, yet, have a working C128. I've got two I bought from fleabay, but haven't even unboxed them yet, let alone worked on them. The ones I've got are all amazing and I'm so glad c0pperdragon created these. They're really amazing.
Oh thank you because I was supposed to have sent a spare VIC chip -- and clearly I totally forgot! So I'm really glad you helped and the VIC20 one got finished. I do wonder if the firmware is updatable on my VIC-20 interposer as clearly it's the pre-Todd version of code! Hehe. It's so damn clever how it works. And you know, thinking about Lumacode, something like the Kawari could also output the Lumacode to facilitate another super easy way to get perfect image from a 64.... 🤔
@@adriansdigitalbasement2 Randy was actually talking to c0pperdragon about adding it to the "POV" (plain Old Vic) version he was working on. Don't know how far that's gotten, though.
I adore that Lumacode mod for the VIC-20. I 3d printed a replacement userport-side bracket for my VIC-20, and drilled a hole in that for the Lumacode RCA jack. Flawless video. I also installed one in my VCS/2600 and it's incredible.
The 2600 needs it so badly as the video output on it all seems rather poor. The NTSC NES one is the one I'm most excited about, as the RF output jack is there waiting for the mod!!
0:12 "Well, I've been to Hastings and I've been to Brighton. I've been to Eastbourne too. So what, so what?"
To help with the personal/mail call parcel issue, you could set your name on various suppliers sites to use your middle initial so you can see easily if it’s something you ordered. :)
And if you don't have a middle initial you can use Adrian Freaking Black
Thanks for your cool reviews, Adrian! I saw you had some issues with the IIc USB power adapter, the converter it uses is rated for 15V, so it may be recognizing 12V and therefore lowering it to 5V, as this is the first time I see that happening. Normally, it’s used with MacBook Pro adapters that send that specific current. I have changed the design to fit larger connectors, as you suggested, thank you!
Regarding the Mouse, we are soon adding the option to add weight to the mice for the people that likes that old heavy feeling, to all 3 variants: Apple II/Mac, Amiga and Lisa.
I'm always open to suggestions and ideas, 8bittees was created to print requests, so let me know of anything, same with 3D stuff.
I really think it was just an issue with the cable fitting and nothing more. The PSUs I tried all go up to 20v and can output 15v fine, but without the CC pins, the negotiation will never happen and you'll get 5v. I have put little USB C PD boards into my game consoles like the Genesis and SNES to avoid needing a specific PSU. Those work well set to 9v :-)
@@adriansdigitalbasement2 Thanks for the clarification, I already redesigned it to fit a larger connector, yay!
Id be REALLY careful about that logo on the mouse, Apple are notoriously trigger happy, they took at a local window firm a few years ago because they called themselves Apple Windows
@@ARCJavMasterThe issue is the plug not reaching in far enough. Either the wall between plug and socket is too thick or the connector wasn’t assembled correctly. It has nothing to do with the size of the plug. Although some USB-C plugs are longer than others, the ones Adrian used are perfectly normal ones.
@@rtechlab6254 Agree, Apple is very fast at crushing anyone, but very slow to listen to concerns or requests from users.
'G' is labeled for the Green gun which is also the luminance level for Black and White TV Signals. Many years ago I did daily pre-production adjustments on color vidicon television cameras. Funny how some things just stick to your brain.
that totally makes sense to me now! I'm glad it stuck in your brain, because I can now go about my day without a pesky "WTF?" irritation!
Well the page should say the whole word - GREEN! People might think G means ground.
the extron power connector is Molex p/n 39500-0002. The serial connector is -0003 both are in stock at mouser, they are pluggable screw terminal blocks.
I was going to say something similar, start getting into commercial AV gear and you’ll find that kind of connection all over the place. I have a box that transmits composite, video, vga or HDMI over an Ethernet cable the receiver only outputs hdmi, but output resolution holds regardless of the input on the other end. At least according to the documentation. I use it to transmit audio only over Ethernet because it was cheaper ($10 ea) to buy those used then any other method to transmit over Ethernet 🤣.
Went and refreshed my memory on the unit, it’s an AMX DXLink.
Lumacode is such an amazing mod for these systems. Goes to show you can produce a perfect video signal with just two wires without all the NTSC dot crawl and color bleeding artifacts.
Around minute 3 all I could think is he's going to knife himself holding it like that and waving his arm around. Great video!
25:45 Adrian, those are standard industrial power supply terminal connectors, you can get them on mouser or digikey.
Get some ceramic mouse slides for that replica. They go on with double-sided adhesive that can be removed without damaging the plastic.
About the Lumacode:
You might want to find your OSSC and take a look at it, update it to the newest Hardware Revision and software.
From what the Retrochannel said, Lumacode works with that as well, not just the RGB-HDMI. He also demonstrated other Lumacode things, maybe talk to him?
it's all about that second button
Get one of those USB-C cable testers. I have one with C to C and A to C, and they're fantastinc for sorting the cables by capability and testing whether they work to begin with. Get USB B mini/micro and lightning adapters to/from C, and you basically have a full set of everything you need for modern USB cable needs. You'll be surprised by how many C to C cables only have two conductors. Your power bank or power adapter needs USB PD and your cable needs at least 4 conductors, if your device needs anything else than 5V and whatever amps the PSU is preconfigured to deliver.
It's possible that the "G" was used for Luma instead of "Y" because Green was the de facto +sync channel, and was also used as the color to represent Luma in component video
So as you have gotten OLDER, like a well aged and cared for device, you have gotten some Expansion Slots :P :P T-shirts went from a medium 8 bit size to a 16 bit size :P :P .
The Lumacode project is so exciting. I can't wait for easy solutions to improve NES, C64 and Atari 8-Bit video output on the cheap.
C-64 and Atari 8-bit are here. VIC-II-dizer and GTIA-digitizer were also in the box.
When it comes to plugs that don't fit into recessed sockets (either due to oversight in the design, or cos the plug is just trying to be too "decorative" than functional), I tend to just trim the plastic from the plug itself to give it some more length, found this useful a couple of times where a USB socket on a phone has become slightly too recessed because of a cover I'd put on said phone... :)
I so want an Apple ][ floppy emulator that i can mount inside of an actual working Apple ][ floppy drive and have both working at the same time. I do have working Apple ][ floppy drives, and adding an SD option to one of those would be beyond awesome!
Extron's connectors are actually quite standard for professional AV equipment and are certainly not unique to Extron devices. They are removable captive screw terminal blocks and you can find several different brands at Mouser and Digikey that are compatible. Just make sure you get the correct pin pitch.
Extron typically uses 3.5mm and 5mm pin pitches, power connectors are almost always 3.5mm and 12V just make sure you pay attention to the polarity marked near the connector. Also your RGB interface appears to be missing the locking tab that is supposed to be attached to the HDMI connector that prevents the HDMI cable from being unplugged accidentally. Not critical for your use but nice to have.
molex 39500-0002 for power and -0003 for serial on that unit.
Hi Adrian. I have a Lumacode + rgbtohdmi for my 128 and I noticed that it was very sensitive to the length of the composite RCA cable. Too long of a cable and I could never get it to display correctly. Using a shorter cable solved all my problems with it and it's been perfect since.
My name is on that shirt (no relation) but still cool to see it.
Tried one of these on an Atari xe and it was a major pain to get it dialed in. Switched to the Sophia 2 and that was just plug and play and fewer components. Much better solution for Atari 8 bits.
The Extron RGB 300A is great. But my choice, which is a real Swiss army knife of scalers, is the Extron DSC 301 HD. That thing has a composite and HDMI input as well, on top of the VGA/RGB inputs. The point is - you can still use an OSSC as a "front end" for it, or a RetroTink 2x, and a bunch of other devices, then scale them to whatever you need. I even used them to capture modern PCs, with HDMI or DVI outputs... To solve the similar "input switches mode, capture stops" problem. I have 1 RGB 300A, and 7 (seven) pieces of DSC 301 HD. One is permanently built and cable managed into my desk. Nuff said.
The DSC 301 HD doesn't have the problem with the mode changes, or is that why you keep the 300A around? The 300A has one flaw in that it doesn't auto sense 720 pixel wide text mode vs 640 pixel wide graphics mode on VGA. I have to use serial control to swap between two configured profiles I setup over serial.
@@adriansdigitalbasement2 In my case it was the other way around - I first had a couple of DSC 301 HDs, then someone claimed the RGB 300A is better fold old PCs. i don't really see it, or it is a matter of taste. Sometimes I use it. Neither is perfect. The DSC 301 HD also has a few issues with Auto-Image, but at least you can correct it easily, because, yes, serial console. :)
Looks like the USB-C connector on that adapter is set too far back in its enclosure. Much further back than any examples I have here (mice, keyboards, adapters, etc.
Also, looks like Robert already marked all the ziff sockets on that VIC-20 with a big black square on each corner to indicate pin 1. :)
19:20 I'm preparing my own review of that mouse for the Mac Plus and I think there's some averaging done inside the mouse's internal chip to cap the maximal speed sent on the serial port. I can feel the ceiling if I use the lowest setting on the Mac Finder mouse movement, but if I raise it, the weird feeling goes away because I'm not moving my hand fast enough to reach the new cap.
I didn't open it up to see how it works, but what's confusing to me is the Mac and Apple II don't use serial, but quadrature X and Y encoding which needs 4 pins. This is just like the Amiga and Atari ST mice. Serial mice (on the PC) use an actual serial bitstream (7 bits, 2 stop bits, if I recall.) Inside the mouse there must be some kind of MCU that converts a PS2 or USB mouse circuit into the quadrature encoding the computer needs?
@@adriansdigitalbasement2 you're right, and I even knew about it. I have followed someone else's project to do an Arduino-like device to send quadrature signal to my Mac plus, controlled by a cheap thumbstick. The exact code you're using makes a big difference and I can imagine dealing with a moving average can be a strategy to iron out the input, deal with dead zones and in the case of the mouse, moderate the extremes in movement
@@adriansdigitalbasement2 and yes, there seems to be a MCU tied right under the stress relief part, in the case. There's also another chip in the PCB. Be careful when you open it up, take your time.
Surely this is just your Elgato? If you connect directly to a monitor does it work?
Hi Adrian, you never get expanded if you're getting older - the damned modern fashion getting smaller year by year 🙃 Thanks for the nice MMC for a Wednesday!
you could cut down a Disk ][ case so it's only an inch or two thick with the faceplate mounted (would have to tweak the faceplate structure). then it's just as portable as what you have now.
or 3d print (or cut one out of metal) a new one?
1:53 Tel = Jeroen Tel from The Netherlands. Chris Huelsbeck is from Germany
Chris Huelsbeck is a Legend! I still remember the Sound of Katakis and The Great Giana Sisters!
Yes! All of the names on the shirt are :)
I think the "Y" is actual a romanized greek gamma, not an actual English "y". Hence "G".
How was I not subscribed? So weird... I swear I was
Point of order, Apple claimed for many years that "you only need one mouse button." That was a stupid thing to say, and has been proven false many times over.
Same as "you don't need a stylus for our tablets." And then releasing the i-pencil.
Why people keep buying modern Apple products, i don't understand.
The RetroTINK 4k is a bit pricey but it is excellent at VGA capture as well as everything else it does.
Yeah I heard it fixed all of the issues with the other models.... but it's $750. That's more than pricey in my book.
$750!!! What! A bit pricey? A fkn lot pricey! That is absolutely insane.
Do they know Carl Sagan?
If you need Extron stuff or Crestron stuff hit me up. I have clients with rooms full of things pulled out of service that they don’t mind if I raid their ‘antique’ equipment stash so long as they are left with a couple of each piece.
Heh nice! I don't really know what else they have but things useful for connecting up old machines to modern stuff is definitely very useful. :-)
I probably even have stuff in my office. I’ve been in the A/V industry for 20+ years doing install, service, programming, and concerts. Worked with LiveNation loads of times. Let me know if there is anything you’re looking for and how to get in touch.
I would like a 300A. Im in the UK. I don't want to put my email address in a public youtube comment.
Javier is asking for a copyright notice
I'm actually asking Apple to redo those items, so I don't have to. 😎
Great 😊
Javier is awesome - great contribution!
Adrian. Love your videos, but I think you forgot what super and mini means, in this hour long video. lol.
04:36 At first glance I thought Javier was flipping us off. Looked again and saw the joystick. Love my brain. 🤷
i know tim follin (and his brother) from NES and SNES games! absolutely incredible works
Martin Galway is the only name that I recognized.
...and now I have Comic Bakery stuck in my head.
I know Tim Follin by name as well. Plok and Time Trax are easily the two best game soundtracks he's ever done.
People always question me on my house purchases. "Why don't you buy a new house, you can afford it." Well, the house i currently own was built in 1971 in a state that gets hit by hurricanes every year. My house is still standing, and that says something. It says to me this house is going to be here long after i die. If a hurricane, or a flood, or tropical storm was going to kill this house, it's had 50+ years to do so, and hasn't yet. I'm willing to bet on those odds! ^-^
Plus, if you live in a hurricane or tornado zone and don't prep well in advance (like the previous YEARS), then you get what you get. You know you live there, you know these storms happen, prepare BEFORE you need to, and then you'll be prepared. It's not rocket surgery.
Prepare well in advance. Such as build your house properly in the first place with solid concrete or brick walls, not out of thin plywood and plasterboard. You house is still standing because in 1971 they built them properly.
25:31 at work I say “and one for the floor”. Any key production gear needs a backup. 👍
NES has 57 colour palette not 64....
I think because several of the colors are black?
@@adriansdigitalbasement2 Maybe, but if they're quote unquote "black", that probably means they were not assigned a color by the game ROM. I'm sure the NES has an assembly routine that let's the game assign custom colors to the palette.
Fun fact... you can not order anything from Copperdragons shop right now. Odd way of doing business...
also on the tee shirt it should be DALGLISH not dagLish....
h
RTFM :-) you should have used 15V, not 12 for the power adapter.
Huh? My USB PD supplies and power banks all go up to 20v, as I showed on the power bank.
Power bank had both 15V and 20V capabilities listed.
at Timestamp 12:15 the way you use it there it is not PD ... that will always just output 12 volts... pd starts at 5 volts till the pd signal gets send to raise the voltage to the power brick / charger when you use the same output on the charger as you do now at this time stamp and then plug it in to that white little adapter you will see it be 12 volts... the usb c on the power brick needs a pd signal to switch to 12 volts !!!! thought you were that smart Adrian !!!!!
Excuse me? That cable has a PD chip in the Type-C connector to negotiate the 12 volts from the PD power supply. How else do you think you get 12v to output from a USB type C power supply to send into your 2.1mm barrel jack device?? Did you think the cable was for going from a normal 12v PSU to USB type C? That's not how the cable works, it's USB-C -> 2.1mm DC. Which is how I literally demonstrate it working, booting the Apple IIc off my USB PD power bank.