Hi Michael, as a technician I just wanted to share a time saving tip, usually you only need to unhook the bottom ball joint ball joint then you can swing knuckle sideways, and tie it off with a bunji. However like you said in the video, I would have cleaned the old grease dew to possible water contaminants .Otherwise good job and keep the vids coming
Hi Tim - I appreciate the feedback! There is always faster ways to do things and now I know some short cuts! Off camera - I did remove the old grease and repack the bearing as I wasn't happy mixing it either. Thanks again!
Yup - I'll be working on it this week. Something simple to print on a 3D printer but should deflect most sticks etc. I'll be sure to share the design and make a video :)
Hi Elite Bowman - Hmmm not sure now but I think its about 80lbft but you just tighten it until the play is removed and then to line up the split pin hole on the castlated nut.
Do you think that grit inside of the boots can cause a chirping or grinding noise when turning? My boots are in good shape, but I'm getting a chirping noise every time I even gently touch the steering wheel when driving.
@@TheEmporiumOutdoors Turns out it's the front brake pads. I wasn't expecting them to wear so fast, so I didn't put much thought into checking them. I hosed down the rotors with WD-40 and the sound nearly went away, so I'm confident it's the pads. Thanks for the help!
I guess so - It's a weakness for most ATV/UTV's - I'm designing a guard to install to protect that boot. All the others are pretty much protected at the front.
As I didn't have a shop manual I went with "standard torque specs" - If you google it you can get a chart that will give you standard toque for a size of bolt 👍
Now if we could only do the real job in fast forward like that LOL. In the past I have bubba'd the ones on my first car by sewing one in place made out of a piece of leather. Held on with zip ties and packed with grease they got me through the winter. Then I discovered split CV joint boots saved a lot of trouble until they made those illegal for road vehicles.
Hi - took me a couple of hours including the filming. Tim Cook commented - that you only need to remove the lower ball joint so that would make it much quicker!
The right tool will always make the job go that much faster and smoother. In my youth, I used to improvise the proper tool ... now a bit older, I get easily fed up and will buy the right tool for the job. Sadly I'm only usually need it once, but they sure make my shop look nice, and almost like I know what the heck I'm doing ;) Nice repair vid! Glad there wasn't any rocks/silt/sand embedded in that stick. How often to you repack your joints?
Hi Richard - I'm the same way - special tools used once, odd ball sockets for special nuts etc - Was lucky it was only a stick but I was surprised there was a piece left in there. I don't think I've ever repacked a CV joint to be honest unless I was changing a boot. The grease is captive so it really can't go anywhere - also modern grease it pretty stable and shouldn't degrade over the lower mileage of an UTV vs a truck or car. Your really working your way through my videos today! :D
The Emporium Hahaha - yes, I was housebound due to a rather bad rainstorm ... add to that a lovely bottle of single malt, a cozy blanket and an iPad, and it was a no brainier! Either than or watch the rubbish known as the Stupidbowl. ;)
There are general guidelines for fasteners of all sizes - search Torque Chart. The service manual from Honda will no doubt specify exact torque for key fasteners - like the hub nut. I set my torque for the hub nut at 95lbf and then tighten to the closest split pin hole. At the end of the video it shows me manipulating the tire - what I'm doing is looking for play in the ball joints, track rod end or hub nut. No wobble means everything should be good - I tend to do this every 500 km ridden - as part of my inspection. Hope that helps!
Hi Brian - I have some take off's from a an ATV (video here ruclips.net/video/jCWGoPQOhVc/видео.html) They are Carlisle something or other but 25" tall on stock rims, same everything else. I would prefer 26" tires but I'll use these up first. Hope that helps!
26" for me I believe www.torqmasters.com is the company working on it. I also heard a possible rumour Honda maybe working on a 56" wide model - something to match up with the Textron Prowler 500. Would be interesting to see!
Hi Michael, as a technician I just wanted to share a time saving tip, usually you only need to unhook the bottom ball joint ball joint then you can swing knuckle sideways, and tie it off with a bunji. However like you said in the video, I would have cleaned the old grease dew to possible water contaminants .Otherwise good job and keep the vids coming
Hi Tim - I appreciate the feedback! There is always faster ways to do things and now I know some short cuts! Off camera - I did remove the old grease and repack the bearing as I wasn't happy mixing it either. Thanks again!
I was going to say the same thing but he said he's not a mechanic.
Nice job. Video was well done. Thank you for letting us watch you work, Michael
Thanks Shovelhead!
Nice vid. Amazing how much crud gets stuck in those calipers and they continue to work.
Thanks - yup - they do get packed sometimes.
Thank you for the video Michael. You mentioned designing a guard for the boot. I hope you do.
Yup - I'll be working on it this week. Something simple to print on a 3D printer but should deflect most sticks etc. I'll be sure to share the design and make a video :)
Excellent video
Thank you very much!
Thank you.
You're welcome!
Good video. What are the torque specs on the axle and ball joints? Thanks for sharing. I have the 700 Honda Pioneer.
Hi Elite Bowman - Hmmm not sure now but I think its about 80lbft but you just tighten it until the play is removed and then to line up the split pin hole on the castlated nut.
Thank you. Did it yesterday. Tightened it about that.
Do you think that grit inside of the boots can cause a chirping or grinding noise when turning? My boots are in good shape, but I'm getting a chirping noise every time I even gently touch the steering wheel when driving.
Normally a clicking noise is heard when the CV's are damaged. Could be something stuck in the front brake calliper 👍
@@TheEmporiumOutdoors Turns out it's the front brake pads. I wasn't expecting them to wear so fast, so I didn't put much thought into checking them. I hosed down the rotors with WD-40 and the sound nearly went away, so I'm confident it's the pads. Thanks for the help!
@@user-jn9km6qd7g Awesome! Glad that worked out! 👍
Nice install! Probably one of the most frequent problems someone might have happen with the P5.
I guess so - It's a weakness for most ATV/UTV's - I'm designing a guard to install to protect that boot. All the others are pretty much protected at the front.
How many torque pounds do you tighten the luge bolts and the a arms? Or just till it’s tight
As I didn't have a shop manual I went with "standard torque specs" - If you google it you can get a chart that will give you standard toque for a size of bolt 👍
One for question, is the center nut 1 inch? Or more? For the tire
@TheEmporiumOutdoors Thank you I got All on this video saved me lots of money and time
Thanks for posting, we'll done !
No problem - I hope it was useful.
Wow-good work. Just did my cv on polaris. A lot simpler!
The machines are simpler or the owners? 😜
i think you dida lot more work than needed
Better to do all the work while its off 👍
Now if we could only do the real job in fast forward like that LOL. In the past I have bubba'd the ones on my first car by sewing one in place made out of a piece of leather. Held on with zip ties and packed with grease they got me through the winter. Then I discovered split CV joint boots saved a lot of trouble until they made those illegal for road vehicles.
Wow leather - that is awesome! Hahaha - necessity is the mother of all invention!
Nice video, thanks for posting. How long did the whole job take? appreciate the fast forward.
thanks
Hi - took me a couple of hours including the filming. Tim Cook commented - that you only need to remove the lower ball joint so that would make it much quicker!
The right tool will always make the job go that much faster and smoother. In my youth, I used to improvise the proper tool ... now a bit older, I get easily fed up and will buy the right tool for the job. Sadly I'm only usually need it once, but they sure make my shop look nice, and almost like I know what the heck I'm doing ;)
Nice repair vid! Glad there wasn't any rocks/silt/sand embedded in that stick.
How often to you repack your joints?
Hi Richard - I'm the same way - special tools used once, odd ball sockets for special nuts etc - Was lucky it was only a stick but I was surprised there was a piece left in there. I don't think I've ever repacked a CV joint to be honest unless I was changing a boot. The grease is captive so it really can't go anywhere - also modern grease it pretty stable and shouldn't degrade over the lower mileage of an UTV vs a truck or car. Your really working your way through my videos today! :D
The Emporium Hahaha - yes, I was housebound due to a rather bad rainstorm ... add to that a lovely bottle of single malt, a cozy blanket and an iPad, and it was a no brainier! Either than or watch the rubbish known as the Stupidbowl. ;)
Sounds like a fun too me :)
thanks for posting!
Your most welcome Mario!
What was the main wheel nut torque spec?
Hi Cory - I don't recall exactly but typically for steel rims its 55ftlbs.
The Emporium Outdoors thank you!
Hello Michael, just curious if there are torque requirements for the fasteners that you know of.
There are general guidelines for fasteners of all sizes - search Torque Chart. The service manual from Honda will no doubt specify exact torque for key fasteners - like the hub nut. I set my torque for the hub nut at 95lbf and then tighten to the closest split pin hole. At the end of the video it shows me manipulating the tire - what I'm doing is looking for play in the ball joints, track rod end or hub nut. No wobble means everything should be good - I tend to do this every 500 km ridden - as part of my inspection. Hope that helps!
Just curious what tire size you run and what kind. Stock rims? Thanks Brian
Hi Brian - I have some take off's from a an ATV (video here ruclips.net/video/jCWGoPQOhVc/видео.html) They are Carlisle something or other but 25" tall on stock rims, same everything else. I would prefer 26" tires but I'll use these up first. Hope that helps!
I think its time for 28" tires....and supposedly a locking front diff is being released soon, by who idk.
26" for me I believe www.torqmasters.com is the company working on it. I also heard a possible rumour Honda maybe working on a 56" wide model - something to match up with the Textron Prowler 500. Would be interesting to see!