Another option to dry wood and or stacking strips without the mold/mildew when you don't own a kiln is to saw and stack your strips or lumber in late fall or early winter. Keep them covered (but not wrapped with tarp) for maximize airflow without sun or rain on them. Sheets of tin work great as previously mentioned. The humidity and temps are unfavorable for mold/mildew growth and they will be air dried by the time it warms up (for 1" or less) Sawyer for 10+ years in the south and learned the hard way. Great vid and topic! Also, make sure strips are lined up vertically from row to row so the weight pressing down doesn’t warp the boards.
Great video on stickers. I usually use wood from standing dead trees for stickers as they have generally dried down a lot. They do generally have blue stain but we make of practice of spraying our cut lumber with a mix of bleach and borax to prevent the blue stain, mold, and to kill any bugs. Sticker distance is also important depending on the species of wood you're cutting. Generally I use stickers every 2 feet for pine, oak, and elm. For sweetgum, I use stickers every foot. Also, once I fill a pallet with lumber I put 3 to 5 ratchet straps on the pallet to keep the lumber flat. All my lumber is air dried as I don't have a kiln but usually find that a moisture content of around 14% is the equilibrium point where the wood is dry enough to use. All my lumber is kept in an open air drying house with prevailing winds out of the south blowing through the boards. I also use same species wood as stickers, particularly with oak and elm as they don't produce any stain.
Dude, you have an amazing voice! I have been a professional musician, have written and voiced radio commercials, and so have been around top industry people and equipment. If you ever get bored of cutting boards it shouldn't be too difficult for you to find voiceover or on camera voice work. Oh, and thank you for the stacking/stickering education!
Here's another tip: Put a roof over the stack if it's drying or stored out in the open -simple corrugated steel roofing plate works nicely. Just leave good space in between the plate and the top planks and weight it down with something heavy so the winds don't knock it down. Keeps both the rain and sun out. I wouldn't recommend tarps as those collect moisture.
Hi Sean, I do most of my drying in my greenhouse with fans and it works pretty well. I have been using 3/4 stickers and it works great. I just sub’d your channel, good video! Jeff
I stack with 1"X1" sticks and I make sure I clean off all the sawdust especially on hard woods and cedar because it leave stains on the lumber when drying. 😊
@@acajutla Different species have different saps and oils. If you put oak strips between maple or many other light woods, you would get stains. Maybe there are combinations that work, but generally it is best to use same species as stickers.
Im in ga i only cut fall,winter ,early spring 3/4"stickers but i space them 6 foot dry ones on level concrete blocks i do spray all boards for pine beatles and let them dry before stacking cover with tin and put conc blocks on top the more the better
Yeah, I'm in South Louisiana, a half inch isn't even near enough for our humidity. I wouldn't do less than 1 inch. I like the flute. That's a good idea
an old sawyer told me that he would saw cucumber ( a type of magnolia) into sticker strips. He said it has a very alkaline sap and wont leave dark stains on oak.
I bet 3/4 galv rigid pipe would enable more airflow and less surface contact, so less potential for mold. Wonder if it'd create discoloration from the zinc
@@luckyred1818 I have heard of people using split pvc. I have no idea about the zink reaction with the hardwoods. But that could get very expensive if you cut more than a little bit.
your stickers should be lined up with the dunnage under your bundle of drying lumber, and also the stickers should be all the way to the ends of your boards, to prevent end twisting. Also if airdrying outside in an uncovered environment, a sheet of plastic under the top boards will prevent the whole bundle from getting saturated when it rains.
@@GrizC I have a video on my kiln. It’s just of the build. It’s a hybrid solar kiln. Sun for the heat but I do have a dehumidifier which I put in later. I will do a video on it soon and do a walkthrough. It works pretty well.
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
These few tips will help prevent that nasty sticker stain and moldy lumber.
Another option to dry wood and or stacking strips without the mold/mildew when you don't own a kiln is to saw and stack your strips or lumber in late fall or early winter. Keep them covered (but not wrapped with tarp) for maximize airflow without sun or rain on them. Sheets of tin work great as previously mentioned. The humidity and temps are unfavorable for mold/mildew growth and they will be air dried by the time it warms up (for 1" or less) Sawyer for 10+ years in the south and learned the hard way. Great vid and topic! Also, make sure strips are lined up vertically from row to row so the weight pressing down doesn’t warp the boards.
@@mattclinton3420 great points
Thanks! Thank you for sharing all your research. Really nice ideas here. That H sticker is classy!
Great video on stickers. I usually use wood from standing dead trees for stickers as they have generally dried down a lot. They do generally have blue stain but we make of practice of spraying our cut lumber with a mix of bleach and borax to prevent the blue stain, mold, and to kill any bugs. Sticker distance is also important depending on the species of wood you're cutting. Generally I use stickers every 2 feet for pine, oak, and elm. For sweetgum, I use stickers every foot. Also, once I fill a pallet with lumber I put 3 to 5 ratchet straps on the pallet to keep the lumber flat. All my lumber is air dried as I don't have a kiln but usually find that a moisture content of around 14% is the equilibrium point where the wood is dry enough to use. All my lumber is kept in an open air drying house with prevailing winds out of the south blowing through the boards. I also use same species wood as stickers, particularly with oak and elm as they don't produce any stain.
Hello! Thanks for this video. I’ll be watching more as time allows. New subscriber from Ky.
@@LumberLineFarmingCountry top of the morning to yuh. We appreciate it.
Dude, you have an amazing voice! I have been a professional musician, have written and voiced radio commercials, and so have been around top industry people and equipment. If you ever get bored of cutting boards it shouldn't be too difficult for you to find voiceover or on camera voice work. Oh, and thank you for the stacking/stickering education!
@@TheMrAshley2010 Well thank you very much pal.
I like the H cut sticker, that's pretty nifty.
Exactly true. Did not know the H trick ... thanks!
Here's another tip: Put a roof over the stack if it's drying or stored out in the open -simple corrugated steel roofing plate works nicely. Just leave good space in between the plate and the top planks and weight it down with something heavy so the winds don't knock it down. Keeps both the rain and sun out. I wouldn't recommend tarps as those collect moisture.
I quite often use slabs to put on top of the pile.
Hi Sean, I do most of my drying in my greenhouse with fans and it works pretty well. I have been using 3/4 stickers and it works great. I just sub’d your channel, good video! Jeff
@@adirondackwoodsman THANKS For the SUPPORT! my kiln is pretty much a green house with a dehumidifier. I’ll do a video on it soon.
great information, many thanks.
You’re welcome. Glad you enjoyed it.
Thanks!
Always looking to help out with wood knowledge
🇨🇦 Thank you for the information
Good sticker ideas! Thanks
You're absolutely right
I stack with 1"X1" sticks and I make sure I clean off all the sawdust especially on hard woods and cedar because it leave stains on the lumber when drying. 😊
Thanks Sean Ireland
First I’ve seen from Ireland. Hope all is well. Thanks.
One more point - try to use the same species for stickers - pine on pine, oak on oak, etc.
Not necessarily. White cedar stickers on white pine prevents stickers stain for example.
I've heard a contrary tip. Hardwood sticks for softwood boards and vice versa.
Reason would be that they attract different type of spores.
@@acajutla Different species have different saps and oils. If you put oak strips between maple or many other light woods, you would get stains. Maybe there are combinations that work, but generally it is best to use same species as stickers.
That’s a really good point!
Good information
Good stickers yield good boards.
Im in ga i only cut fall,winter ,early spring 3/4"stickers but i space them 6 foot dry ones on level concrete blocks i do spray all boards for pine beatles and let them dry before stacking cover with tin and put conc blocks on top the more the better
@@jamesbrooks5442 I try to cut hardwood in winter here. I’ll do pine at anytime
Good tips, appreciate it.
Yeah, I'm in South Louisiana, a half inch isn't even near enough for our humidity. I wouldn't do less than 1 inch. I like the flute. That's a good idea
an old sawyer told me that he would saw cucumber ( a type of magnolia) into sticker strips. He said it has a very alkaline sap and wont leave dark stains on oak.
@@trimbaker1893 that’s good to know
@@RiversidewoodFarm-vq3bl I take time to respect and listen politely to old men like Mr. Carl.
I saw mine to 1" and only use green ones on lumber that I don't care if it gets sticker stain.
There is a reason they built planers. I can see if your market is primarily in rough lumber for furniture and such items though.
@@noneofyourbusiness3553 Stain can go beyond what a planer removes.
I bet 3/4 galv rigid pipe would enable more airflow and less surface contact, so less potential for mold. Wonder if it'd create discoloration from the zinc
@@luckyred1818 I have heard of people using split pvc. I have no idea about the zink reaction with the hardwoods. But that could get very expensive if you cut more than a little bit.
Use fluted maple stickers for best results.
That is a good idea, I will have to try that next time.
your stickers should be lined up with the dunnage under your bundle of drying lumber, and also the stickers should be all the way to the ends of your boards, to prevent end twisting. Also if airdrying outside in an uncovered environment, a sheet of plastic under the top boards will prevent the whole bundle from getting saturated when it rains.
@@jimhofoss9982 I will do a video on that soon.
I used to stick my lumber with nylon rope no stain
how far south are you good info
I used 1x1 i rip them on the table saw out of the flitchs
I use 1 1/2 x 1 1/2
Ok to reuse them?
Yes. Broken ones can be spliced in the pile if needed.
Tell me all about your drying kiln . Or did I miss a video.
@@GrizC I have a video on my kiln. It’s just of the build. It’s a hybrid solar kiln. Sun for the heat but I do have a dehumidifier which I put in later. I will do a video on it soon and do a walkthrough. It works pretty well.
how far south are you good info
@@markhicks8377 all the way on Ms gulf coast. Humid as a sauna in summer time!
were on the gulf coast of florida apalachicola to be exact
@ I know where that is
God’s country!