Dear me mate the best tree making video i have seen and will defiantly be following your video on this and your other ones too well done great stuff .UK. Thank you.
I just want to say I've watched 50+ videos about trees on RUclips and I have to admit, you have the simplest, most effective, easy, best looking trees man. You now have a new subscriber and fan ❤
I have watched your tree making videos several times and gave it a go myself over the past few days (I made 21 4" trees). I have found difficulty getting the initial flocking to stick to the armatures. I used a "Rustoleum 2X Ultracover Paint + Primer (Dark Walnut)" which I now note says 'Fast Drying' on the can. Perhaps my spray paint is drying too quickly and is no longer tacky when I sift the first application of Earth Blend / Static Grass Flock? I would be interested to hear what others are using and their results. I resorted to using more of the spray adhesive and that seems to help improve "leaf coverage" sticking to the branches somewhat. Excellent vide by the way: amazing results, explained and demonstrated in a very reproducable way. Thank You!!
Thanks so much. I use Tremclad as it has a relatively long drying time and stays tacky enough that you get a good bond of the initial material. You still have to work somewhat quickly but I find it does the trick. Thanks for stopping by and having a look. -grant
@@SouthernAlbertaRail Grant; I bought a can of Tremclad for a second batch of 40 trees and it worked perfectly. I spoke with a paint pro at my local Home Hardware and the initial Rustoleum product I bought is an Alkyd-based paint. The Tremclad is an oil-based product and remains 'tackier' much longer. I used the brown alkyd to give my trees an initial coat and a flat black oil-based spray as the flocking adhesive. The paint coverage on the copper & sisal armatures was excellent (with 2 coats) and the flocking stuck very well. With more flocking, the spray adhesive (Gorilla Glue, in my case) had more to stick to and the highlights also look much better. Overall, I am thrilled with the first 60 trees I have made. They look MUCH more realistic than what I can buy retail, have greater natural variation and will cost me somewhere between $1 and $2 CAD each (I'm keeping track of supplies cost and trees made in a spreadsheet). Thanks again for your videos - they are an excellent tutorial, and an inspiration, for a relative newbie like me.
No tree's were harmed in the making of this video ! Seriously though another great tutorial thank you sir, and yes definitely let them sit overnight and I seal mine with a light coat of matte varnish. I also wear a mask when using static grass or flock as I find it can get airborne quite easily and a nice still day with little wind produces the best result. Thanks.
I’ve done single trees like this but have been putting off doing more because of how long I thought it would take. You make it look so fast and easy! Thanks for sharing!
In all honesty I'm not sure the Sisal would be stiff enough for a tree in that scale. You could give it a whirl but there may be a better way to build a 1/56 scale version. Check out Boomer Dioramas RUclips channel for some amazing tree tutorials. Cheers! -grant www.youtube.com/@boomerdiorama
Wow, your trees look fantastic. I think I'll give your method a try. Your method makes the most realistic pine (fir) frees I've yet seen. Thanks for the video. Cheers & 73 from W Rusty Lane K9POW in eastern Tennessee
I tried your method and after a few oddly shaped blobs that looked like alien Star Trek plants, I think I've got it and turned out 10 trees this morning. I only have a small layout due to space limitations, but I can fill it up with trees easily now. Finding sisal baling twine in less than 10,000-foot rolls was a challenge, but I did find an 1,800-foot roll for only $20. Thanks for the great instructions! Aspen trees are next, you made those look easy, too.
Sweet! Glad you found the groove. The first tress can be a bit disappointing but you just have to "boldly go" where you haven't been before... Sorry couldn't resist... -grant
Slowly sifting through your videos. Wow! Pro quality videos and truly remarkable results! And your thought process for the assembly line! You must be a heck of a productive person in the business or working world! Thank you as always for sharing! Dominic
@@SouthernAlbertaRail 38 years in the family scrap business managing the non ferrous end along with an uncle who demanded 120 percent every day taught me a few tricks along the way! Retired now, i just love seeing talent and how things are done. Whether it be in model railroading, modeling, airbrush painting, sports, folks working, whatever. Yourself, Boomer, Luke T, a few others along with the old timers from before the youtube era in this hobby have an excellent eye of the world and how to recreate it in miniature. You had my sub after seeing you hit the wheels from different angles to create the shadows and highlights! Nice to see you're family involved as well. Happy Holidays to you and yours! Dominic
It usually takes someone pushing us to the limit to learn how to problem solve and realize what we can actually accomplish. Your uncle seems to be who pushed you, my Dad did it for me. Critical thinkers.... Always looking for the best approach to solve a problem. Thanks so much for all your comments and feedback and all the best to you and family for Christmas and the New Year. -grant
@@SouthernAlbertaRail It will be freelance in Oregon's Mid Willamette Valley where I live. The name is (BN Willamette Valley Division BNWV). I am modelling in the mid 70's as if BN is the predominant railroad in the area with some UP and lease units. Small trains, small yards, and long runs through the scenes on two levels. I am starting over. early last year I took down a "spaghetti" layout that did not have great operations. The total area is 23 x 18 with some obstructions.
Your trees are so simple yet so complex at the same time. The end result is great. Do you have an updated number on how many trees you've got on the layout so far? 👍
Thanks a bunch. I've built 3800 trees in the last 20 months or so. All but 700 have been planted, acting as reserves for the next scenic work to be done. There is another 1500 older models that will be replaced as time allows. Happy that less trees are required as I head further east across the layout!! Cheers. -grant
I tried making my first OO / HO fir tree last night. The process was relatively simple but I think my wire was too thick (2mm). Do you have any recommendation for OO wire thickness? I also used a small ball of 'sisal twine' which worked but had a very aggressive twist to it. Off to order a roll of baler sisal now which seems to be thicker strands and less twisted. Planning a tree making production line over the Christmas holidays - family entertainment!
This seems to be the best technique but I'm building a coffee table and bought some trees. They aren't as realistic but I didn't want to spend spend much time on trees, it's cold so no painting.
Hi, really like your trees and would like to know if you are working in N Scale aren't your trees a little large. I am just curious as I work in O Scale and your 7" trees work out to be about 93' and your branches would be 13' with using 2" sisal. Am I correct with these measurements. Just asking as I am new at making trees and would like to make them a proper size for O scale. I am Pastor Randy Bourque retired and live in Calgary, I am in the process of builiding a 1940's 50's sawmill logging camp town, no trains just trucks. I grew up around sawmills in Prince George, Vanderhoof, Fort St. James BC. My goal is to build several trees from 6 to 12" in O scale and was thinking of converting your N scale to O scale that is why the question. Hope to hear from you.
Your math is sound but by the time the twisting is taken into account and the trimming takes place the tallest tree I have is around 5 inches and the branches are 3/4 inch at most. Of course the size is dependant on location. The trees on the BC side of my layout are much taller than the Alberta trees. Cheers. -grant
I’m curious how well this would work with a fir tree from deeper into the woods where their lower branches die off from growing so tight together. The thought here being to follow this process and then trim off random lower growth after those last layers of flocking are applied.
You could adjust how much Sisal was on the lower portion before spinning Chris. I've done that before and it works just fine. If you wanted to create a more detailed trunk you could apply wax as done in the Birch tree vid. -grant
Thanks! Typical depth of scenes is usually around 10 inches to a foot. There are a few exceptions of course. Height varies as this is a double deck layout. The upper level track height averages about 62 inches off the floor.
@@UpTheWHL About 20 inches railtop to railtop between upper and lower levels. The height from bottom level railtop to bottom of upper fascia is approximately 13 inches.
Just out of curiosity... the baler's twine... is it nylon, polymer, hemp, jute, and about what thickness is it? I don't have an agriculture store near me, so I'm attempting to sort out an alternative. Thanks :)
I have really enjoyed and learned a lot from your videos, and I have modelled for years. Regarding making the conifer trees, the sisal from local stores is not rigid enough to hold the shape of the tree. The sisal from hay baling twine that you refer to is more rigid. I found that it is available at UFA stores in Alberta but not where I live, in southern Sask. Seems everyone here prefers poly twine. Also to purchase sisal twine from UFA or other suppliers on-line, I need to buy it in either 9000 ft or 16000 ft packs. I really only need about 300 ft. Do you know any way I can get some smaller quantities of that sisal twine?
HI Allan Glad you're enjoying the channel and finding some interesting content. The rigidity of the bailing Sisal is definitely what you want but unfortunately I don't know if it is available in smaller quantities.
@@SouthernAlbertaRail Thank you Grant. Based on inquiries I have made so far, I think I may be stuck with the choice of getting so much twine that hopefully I can share it with other modelers or else going back to using furnace filter material to make conifers. I definitely think your technique is superior. I'm looking forward to seeing more of your videos as they become available.
Just found your channel and this tutorial on fir trees. I’m a OO/HO modeller who needs heaps of trees for a mountain/mining scene and I was wondering if you have any experience or advice using your technique for making larger trees?
This method is easily adapted to HO by simply using a larger gauge wire, cutting the Sisal longer and using longer static grass in the flock. Depending on how big the tress need to be I would suggest a stiffer material in place of the Sisal to minimize any drooping in the branches. Bark detail could also be applied using the methods I cover in my Birch Tree vid. Hope this helps. -grant
I don't have links unfortunately. Purchased long before online shopping was a thing. Look for Hay or Straw Bale tying Sisal at a farm supply store and the copper wire should be available from an electrical store.
Hello, I have tried several types of sisal rope, but the fibers don't seem as strong as the ones you use. What is the thickness of the sisal rope you use? Thanks.
I’m out of town on a job Fred so can’t measure it up. It is farm grade Sisal designed for baling if that helps. I would guess that the rope itself is a good 1/8” thick. I can give you a proper measurement in a week or so when I get home. Cheers. -grant
Dear me mate the best tree making video i have seen and will defiantly be following your video on this and your other ones too well done great stuff .UK. Thank you.
Thanks so much, glad the video helped out. Cheers! -grant
Always nice to see a master teaching his craft to the world! Fantastic job as always Grant.
Thank you so much, Cheers!
I just want to say I've watched 50+ videos about trees on RUclips and I have to admit, you have the simplest, most effective, easy, best looking trees man. You now have a new subscriber and fan ❤
Wow, thanks!
That was great! You did an excellent job of filming and explaining all the important aspects of your Technique and the trees look fantastic! Thanks!
Thank you very much!
Thank for sharing. Great idea.
My pleasure. Thanks for watching!
best way and fastest, i've seen yet, made 2 after watching in a hurry and still turned out usable and awesome...
Good to hear! The more you make the better they'll look. Cheers. -grant
I have watched your tree making videos several times and gave it a go myself over the past few days (I made 21 4" trees). I have found difficulty getting the initial flocking to stick to the armatures. I used a "Rustoleum 2X Ultracover Paint + Primer (Dark Walnut)" which I now note says 'Fast Drying' on the can. Perhaps my spray paint is drying too quickly and is no longer tacky when I sift the first application of Earth Blend / Static Grass Flock? I would be interested to hear what others are using and their results. I resorted to using more of the spray adhesive and that seems to help improve "leaf coverage" sticking to the branches somewhat. Excellent vide by the way: amazing results, explained and demonstrated in a very reproducable way. Thank You!!
Thanks so much. I use Tremclad as it has a relatively long drying time and stays tacky enough that you get a good bond of the initial material. You still have to work somewhat quickly but I find it does the trick. Thanks for stopping by and having a look. -grant
@@SouthernAlbertaRail Grant; I bought a can of Tremclad for a second batch of 40 trees and it worked perfectly. I spoke with a paint pro at my local Home Hardware and the initial Rustoleum product I bought is an Alkyd-based paint. The Tremclad is an oil-based product and remains 'tackier' much longer. I used the brown alkyd to give my trees an initial coat and a flat black oil-based spray as the flocking adhesive. The paint coverage on the copper & sisal armatures was excellent (with 2 coats) and the flocking stuck very well. With more flocking, the spray adhesive (Gorilla Glue, in my case) had more to stick to and the highlights also look much better. Overall, I am thrilled with the first 60 trees I have made. They look MUCH more realistic than what I can buy retail, have greater natural variation and will cost me somewhere between $1 and $2 CAD each (I'm keeping track of supplies cost and trees made in a spreadsheet). Thanks again for your videos - they are an excellent tutorial, and an inspiration, for a relative newbie like me.
That's a good way to do it. Bob
Thanks Bob. Cheers. -grant
No tree's were harmed in the making of this video ! Seriously though another great tutorial thank you sir, and yes definitely let them sit overnight and I seal mine with a light coat of matte varnish. I also wear a mask when using static grass or flock as I find it can get airborne quite easily and a nice still day with little wind produces the best result. Thanks.
Thanks. Good point about the static fibre. It can certainly float around. Cheers. -grant
Great tutorial!
Thank you! Cheers!
I’ve done single trees like this but have been putting off doing more because of how long I thought it would take. You make it look so fast and easy! Thanks for sharing!
Glad you found it helpful Ralph. Cheers. -grant
Good work. Thanks
Thanks very much. Cheers.
Thanks for the tutorial, the trees came out really nice and they look realistic too.
Sweet, Glad you gave it a whirl Derek. Cheers! -grant
Great video, thanks
Glad you liked it Allen! Cheers.
Fantastic tutorial. Any suggestions on wire and twine fiber length for modeling at 1/56th scale or roughly O for a railroader?
In all honesty I'm not sure the Sisal would be stiff enough for a tree in that scale. You could give it a whirl but there may be a better way to build a 1/56 scale version. Check out Boomer Dioramas RUclips channel for some amazing tree tutorials. Cheers! -grant
www.youtube.com/@boomerdiorama
Brilliant work my friend season greetings from the UK Happy modelling ,be safe, be careful be lucky
Thanks, all the best! -grant
More great stuff. Can’t wait to see how this translates to HO… Thanks for another great video!
Thanks! Glad you found it useful. Cheers. -grant
BRILLIANT!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks!! Glad you enjoyed.
Verry good trees !! 🚉🐕🐕🐕👍😎
HC Treintje Herman from Belgium. 🚉🐕🐕🐕👍😎
Thanks! Cheers.
Very well done,greetings from Slovakia
Thank you very much!
Great tutorial! Thank you 🙂
You’re welcome, glad it was helpful. Cheers.
Wow, your trees look fantastic. I think I'll give your method a try. Your method makes the most realistic pine (fir) frees I've yet seen. Thanks for the video. Cheers & 73 from W Rusty Lane K9POW in eastern Tennessee
Thanks, have fun! -grant
Wow watching this is making me Really want some Trees 🌳 bling up my Railroad..
Piles of fun to make. Hope you give these a whirl.
That’s awesome. It’s great that we had some good weather to do this outside.
You got that right! Make trees while the sun shines!
Take a look at my n scale mountain scenery vids, I’m going to be seeing this process in my future, thank you for the video.
I think you'll enjoy making them. It's actually a lot of fun and pretty relaxing. Cheers.
I tried your method and after a few oddly shaped blobs that looked like alien Star Trek plants, I think I've got it and turned out 10 trees this morning. I only have a small layout due to space limitations, but I can fill it up with trees easily now. Finding sisal baling twine in less than 10,000-foot rolls was a challenge, but I did find an 1,800-foot roll for only $20. Thanks for the great instructions! Aspen trees are next, you made those look easy, too.
Sweet! Glad you found the groove. The first tress can be a bit disappointing but you just have to "boldly go" where you haven't been before... Sorry couldn't resist... -grant
@@SouthernAlbertaRail Ha! Love it. Thanks, Roger from Illinois.
WOW!!! those trees look amazing!
Thanks!
Slowly sifting through your videos. Wow! Pro quality videos and truly remarkable results! And your thought process for the assembly line! You must be a heck of a productive person in the business or working world! Thank you as always for sharing!
Dominic
Glad you like them! I spent 25 years in the trucking industry.... You soon realize the more efficient you are the more money you make!! Cheers. -grant
@@SouthernAlbertaRail 38 years in the family scrap business managing the non ferrous end along with an uncle who demanded 120 percent every day taught me a few tricks along the way! Retired now, i just love seeing talent and how things are done. Whether it be in model railroading, modeling, airbrush painting, sports, folks working, whatever. Yourself, Boomer, Luke T, a few others along with the old timers from before the youtube era in this hobby have an excellent eye of the world and how to recreate it in miniature. You had my sub after seeing you hit the wheels from different angles to create the shadows and highlights! Nice to see you're family involved as well. Happy Holidays to you and yours!
Dominic
It usually takes someone pushing us to the limit to learn how to problem solve and realize what we can actually accomplish. Your uncle seems to be who pushed you, my Dad did it for me. Critical thinkers.... Always looking for the best approach to solve a problem. Thanks so much for all your comments and feedback and all the best to you and family for Christmas and the New Year. -grant
Wow looks fantastic. Thanks for sharing. Dave
Thanks for watching Dave. Cheers. -grant
Great work.
Thank you! Cheers!
Very good technique Grant, thank you for sharing. I am modelling the BN in Oregon, so lots of fir trees will be needed
Glad it was helpful. Yes you will need a pile of trees for Oregon. What area are you modelling?
@@SouthernAlbertaRail It will be freelance in Oregon's Mid Willamette Valley where I live. The name is (BN Willamette Valley Division BNWV). I am modelling in the mid 70's as if BN is the predominant railroad in the area with some UP and lease units. Small trains, small yards, and long runs through the scenes on two levels. I am starting over. early last year I took down a "spaghetti" layout that did not have great operations. The total area is 23 x 18 with some obstructions.
Sounds like a good sized area to model some wide open space. And who can't love early BN and their melting pot of paint schemes! Have fun. -grant
Great technique, again! Thanks for sharing!
Thank you! Cheers!
Awesome video👍🏽 I’m going to use this. Thx for sharing 👊🏽
Thanks, have fun!
WOW! those look great, thx for the updated video
My pleasure David, glad you like them. Cheers!
Thanks Grant. That's a really useful and well described video..
Glad it was helpful Scott. Cheers. -grant
Your trees are so simple yet so complex at the same time. The end result is great. Do you have an updated number on how many trees you've got on the layout so far? 👍
Thanks a bunch. I've built 3800 trees in the last 20 months or so. All but 700 have been planted, acting as reserves for the next scenic work to be done. There is another 1500 older models that will be replaced as time allows. Happy that less trees are required as I head further east across the layout!! Cheers. -grant
Nice video and very nice trees
Thank you very much!
Excellent!
Thank you! Cheers!
One of the best methods I've seen, thanks for sharing. I feel like this will take some practice, but I have a few such trees in my future! Iain
With your modelling choice you will indeed need a tree or two Iain. Good luck with it and have a blast! Cheers! -grant
NEW subscribe wow amazing layout thx for sharing.
Welcome aboard and thanks for subbing up! You should find a pile of stuff on the channel to check out. Cheers! -grant
@@SouthernAlbertaRail thx you very much
👍
I tried making my first OO / HO fir tree last night. The process was relatively simple but I think my wire was too thick (2mm). Do you have any recommendation for OO wire thickness?
I also used a small ball of 'sisal twine' which worked but had a very aggressive twist to it. Off to order a roll of baler sisal now which seems to be thicker strands and less twisted. Planning a tree making production line over the Christmas holidays - family entertainment!
Good use of the Christmas holiday!! 2 mil is pretty thick for sure. I would try 16 gauge copper. If memory serves 16 gauge is about 1.3 mil.
@@SouthernAlbertaRail I can get my hands on 1.25mm copper wire easily enough. Thanks Grant
This seems to be the best technique but I'm building a coffee table and bought some trees. They aren't as realistic but I didn't want to spend spend much time on trees, it's cold so no painting.
Roger that. Not a cold weather build unless you have a shop with good ventilation. Cheers!
Hi, really like your trees and would like to know if you are working in N Scale aren't your trees a little large.
I am just curious as I work in O Scale and your 7" trees work out to be about 93' and your branches would be 13' with using 2" sisal.
Am I correct with these measurements.
Just asking as I am new at making trees and would like to make them a proper size for O scale.
I am Pastor Randy Bourque retired and live in Calgary,
I am in the process of builiding a 1940's 50's sawmill logging camp town, no trains just trucks.
I grew up around sawmills in Prince George, Vanderhoof, Fort St. James BC.
My goal is to build several trees from 6 to 12" in O scale and was thinking of converting your N scale to O scale that is why the question.
Hope to hear from you.
Your math is sound but by the time the twisting is taken into account and the trimming takes place the tallest tree I have is around 5 inches and the branches are 3/4 inch at most. Of course the size is dependant on location. The trees on the BC side of my layout are much taller than the Alberta trees. Cheers. -grant
I’m curious how well this would work with a fir tree from deeper into the woods where their lower branches die off from growing so tight together. The thought here being to follow this process and then trim off random lower growth after those last layers of flocking are applied.
You could adjust how much Sisal was on the lower portion before spinning Chris. I've done that before and it works just fine. If you wanted to create a more detailed trunk you could apply wax as done in the Birch tree vid. -grant
Love the trees and layout. Could I ask what the typical depth and height of your scenic sections are?
Thanks! Typical depth of scenes is usually around 10 inches to a foot. There are a few exceptions of course. Height varies as this is a double deck layout. The upper level track height averages about 62 inches off the floor.
@@SouthernAlbertaRail … and what’s the typical height between scenic sections, rail top to rail top? Can’t stop watching these! Thanks!
@@UpTheWHL About 20 inches railtop to railtop between upper and lower levels. The height from bottom level railtop to bottom of upper fascia is approximately 13 inches.
Just out of curiosity... the baler's twine... is it nylon, polymer, hemp, jute, and about what thickness is it? I don't have an agriculture store near me, so I'm attempting to sort out an alternative. Thanks :)
Sisal is actually a natural material so it is just Sisal. The stuff I have is about 1/8th in diameter.
@@SouthernAlbertaRail Thanks. I'll see what I can find.
The sequel to Kill Dozer. Anger Plow...
Jordan Shredder.........
I have really enjoyed and learned a lot from your videos, and I have modelled for years. Regarding making the conifer trees, the sisal from local stores is not rigid enough to hold the shape of the tree. The sisal from hay baling twine that you refer to is more rigid. I found that it is available at UFA stores in Alberta but not where I live, in southern Sask. Seems everyone here prefers poly twine. Also to purchase sisal twine from UFA or other suppliers on-line, I need to buy it in either 9000 ft or 16000 ft packs. I really only need about 300 ft. Do you know any way I can get some smaller quantities of that sisal twine?
HI Allan
Glad you're enjoying the channel and finding some interesting content. The rigidity of the bailing Sisal is definitely what you want but unfortunately I don't know if it is available in smaller quantities.
@@SouthernAlbertaRail Thank you Grant. Based on inquiries I have made so far, I think I may be stuck with the choice of getting so much twine that hopefully I can share it with other modelers or else going back to using furnace filter material to make conifers. I definitely think your technique is superior. I'm looking forward to seeing more of your videos as they become available.
Just found your channel and this tutorial on fir trees. I’m a OO/HO modeller who needs heaps of trees for a mountain/mining scene and I was wondering if you have any experience or advice using your technique for making larger trees?
This method is easily adapted to HO by simply using a larger gauge wire, cutting the Sisal longer and using longer static grass in the flock. Depending on how big the tress need to be I would suggest a stiffer material in place of the Sisal to minimize any drooping in the branches. Bark detail could also be applied using the methods I cover in my Birch Tree vid. Hope this helps. -grant
18 guage copper wire, is it 1,2mm thick? Seems thinner and more flexible than 1,2 mm wire. Can you confirm?
You can use any gauge you want. I've used 24 gauge wire to build wee tiny trees. Definitely tests the patience though with that size wire. Cheers..
@@SouthernAlbertaRail I've started making my own following your instructions, they look really good!
Glad o hear that. Have fun!
One of the greatest Layouts i have ever Seen. Do you have a link to the materials you use? Don‘t know how they called und germany
I don't have links unfortunately. Purchased long before online shopping was a thing. Look for Hay or Straw Bale tying Sisal at a farm supply store and the copper wire should be available from an electrical store.
@@SouthernAlbertaRail thanks 😁 I will look for it
Hello, I have tried several types of sisal rope, but the fibers don't seem as strong as the ones you use. What is the thickness of the sisal rope you use? Thanks.
I’m out of town on a job Fred so can’t measure it up. It is farm grade Sisal designed for baling if that helps. I would guess that the rope itself is a good 1/8” thick. I can give you a proper measurement in a week or so when I get home. Cheers. -grant
My sisal isn’t coming apart as easily as yours.
Interesting. I wonder if it's not as dry?
Do you sell them ? 😅ship to New Zealand 🇳🇿 😅
I used to sell them way back when....
@@SouthernAlbertaRail they look great