I'd go ahead, and replace the air filter. Also, a good idea to re-gap those old plugs, and keep them for a backup set. Looks to be in great shape overall, and ready to go into service at any time.
Yeah, no problem on the hard start kit install! That was a really clean install, there's not an A/C tech in the world that can make it that good. In my case, they would have left it disconnected! Really wish I could have seen the generator handle those A/C startups. But as proven on my upstairs unit, mine went from 30-some-odd amps (on one leg) to 7. HUGE difference. The generator shouldn't have too much trouble handling that. I did a little Google machine research about oil in the airbox. I read a few things. First and foremost, I read that these units are rather fickle about everything. I have said that from the absolute get-go with the amount of cranking they need to fire on natural gas. The Bluick is always exciting with a cold start because you always wonder IF and HOW it's going to start. But one thing has held true with each of the cold starts I've done: If the car has sat for a while, it's going to take quite a bit of cranking for it to fire. You can crank an engine all day without fuel, and it will never start. With the Bluick, we're waiting for the mechanical fuel pump, kind of operating like a trigger-spray bottle on a higher flow rate, to get fuel up to the carb. As soon as it gets up there, bam, it fires. A hot restart is practically instant, because fuel is already there, ready to go. Warm starts are iffy, oftentimes the fuel in the carb has evaporated or boiled off slightly, so there's not quite the amount needed, and it takes a second or two for another shot or two of fuel to go into the intake. With that all said, considering the generator is "injecting" natural gas into the intake, it should fire up almost instantly. But they don't, none of them do. Is that the computer delaying fire for a few strokes first? I don't know. Some ether down the intake would prove that in a jiffy. I've read that these generators are very picky about the amount of natural gas pressure they have. Too low and they won't run, too high and they won't run. Hmm. Next thing is about the oil in the airbox. They say to make sure that the generator is absolutely level. It's been 5 years. Has it stayed level this entire time, or has it shifted slightly. Also, several people have reported that having the oil level right up to the full mark is no good, and to run it at least 2 ticks lower off the top mark. I've read many that said that helps quell the amount of oil in the airbox. Just another one of it's quirks, I guess. Spark plugs, depends on how many hours are on the hourmeter. Could be re-gapped and run for another year or two. They used to be dirt cheap, now not so much. The rounded-out bolt we had found a couple of years ago, I think first checking the battery with the battery tester. Air filter, I forgot to mention, filter is probably fine. If that original one is a -FRAN- FRAM filter, it should definitely be changed for something else. I have no confidence in that brand anymore. Same with an oil filter, if it has one.
It really did make a difference, glad we did it! It seems that oil thing in the compartment happens no matter what brand. If I have to clean it every once in a while (Honestly I haven't done it yet since we had it, so I'd say it's no big deal for that amount of time) I'm just gonna do that. It's really had no problems running. Not having the oil at the full mark is a new one. Honestly probably like your air conditioner, you're gonna find many different opinions all over the place. The only reason I can think of why it cranks for a bit is kind of like the stoves. Does the burner light right away when set to? Nope, it sparks for just a bit before igniting. I think the same thing applies here, and really it doesn't take long at all, I'm not sure how much faster it should be. I forget what the hours ran was, but I think the plugs had a good amount on them, so I'll just change them out, it's easy work anyway. Unsure what the air filter brand is, but I guess it's done the job regardless.
@@Sharkie626 The difference here might be that it was actual owners of the equipment who claim that the lower oil level works, based on reports of what other customers have told the dealers, which they now recommend. So it was a case of people actually figuring stuff out for themselves instead of guessing. As long as it's above the low mark, it's safe to run. I get what you're saying, that's true. That's why on my stove, I always turn the knob to high first, let some gas in there, then spark it up. But still, it takes the stove, what, like a full second? The generator cranks and cranks and cranks. Really shouldn't take more than a second.
I'd go ahead, and replace the air filter. Also, a good idea to re-gap those old plugs, and keep them for a backup set. Looks to be in great shape overall, and ready to go into service at any time.
Yeah, no problem on the hard start kit install! That was a really clean install, there's not an A/C tech in the world that can make it that good. In my case, they would have left it disconnected! Really wish I could have seen the generator handle those A/C startups. But as proven on my upstairs unit, mine went from 30-some-odd amps (on one leg) to 7. HUGE difference. The generator shouldn't have too much trouble handling that.
I did a little Google machine research about oil in the airbox. I read a few things. First and foremost, I read that these units are rather fickle about everything. I have said that from the absolute get-go with the amount of cranking they need to fire on natural gas. The Bluick is always exciting with a cold start because you always wonder IF and HOW it's going to start. But one thing has held true with each of the cold starts I've done: If the car has sat for a while, it's going to take quite a bit of cranking for it to fire. You can crank an engine all day without fuel, and it will never start. With the Bluick, we're waiting for the mechanical fuel pump, kind of operating like a trigger-spray bottle on a higher flow rate, to get fuel up to the carb. As soon as it gets up there, bam, it fires. A hot restart is practically instant, because fuel is already there, ready to go. Warm starts are iffy, oftentimes the fuel in the carb has evaporated or boiled off slightly, so there's not quite the amount needed, and it takes a second or two for another shot or two of fuel to go into the intake.
With that all said, considering the generator is "injecting" natural gas into the intake, it should fire up almost instantly. But they don't, none of them do. Is that the computer delaying fire for a few strokes first? I don't know. Some ether down the intake would prove that in a jiffy. I've read that these generators are very picky about the amount of natural gas pressure they have. Too low and they won't run, too high and they won't run. Hmm.
Next thing is about the oil in the airbox. They say to make sure that the generator is absolutely level. It's been 5 years. Has it stayed level this entire time, or has it shifted slightly. Also, several people have reported that having the oil level right up to the full mark is no good, and to run it at least 2 ticks lower off the top mark. I've read many that said that helps quell the amount of oil in the airbox. Just another one of it's quirks, I guess.
Spark plugs, depends on how many hours are on the hourmeter. Could be re-gapped and run for another year or two. They used to be dirt cheap, now not so much.
The rounded-out bolt we had found a couple of years ago, I think first checking the battery with the battery tester.
Air filter, I forgot to mention, filter is probably fine. If that original one is a -FRAN- FRAM filter, it should definitely be changed for something else. I have no confidence in that brand anymore. Same with an oil filter, if it has one.
It really did make a difference, glad we did it!
It seems that oil thing in the compartment happens no matter what brand. If I have to clean it every once in a while (Honestly I haven't done it yet since we had it, so I'd say it's no big deal for that amount of time) I'm just gonna do that. It's really had no problems running. Not having the oil at the full mark is a new one. Honestly probably like your air conditioner, you're gonna find many different opinions all over the place.
The only reason I can think of why it cranks for a bit is kind of like the stoves. Does the burner light right away when set to? Nope, it sparks for just a bit before igniting. I think the same thing applies here, and really it doesn't take long at all, I'm not sure how much faster it should be.
I forget what the hours ran was, but I think the plugs had a good amount on them, so I'll just change them out, it's easy work anyway. Unsure what the air filter brand is, but I guess it's done the job regardless.
@@Sharkie626 The difference here might be that it was actual owners of the equipment who claim that the lower oil level works, based on reports of what other customers have told the dealers, which they now recommend. So it was a case of people actually figuring stuff out for themselves instead of guessing. As long as it's above the low mark, it's safe to run.
I get what you're saying, that's true. That's why on my stove, I always turn the knob to high first, let some gas in there, then spark it up. But still, it takes the stove, what, like a full second? The generator cranks and cranks and cranks. Really shouldn't take more than a second.
Hey Sharkie, Nice video! Question: Do you think you will do a furnace start up video this year? Always enjoy those.