2:13 just to correct you there, sportiva doesnt change volume for womens models, they only change stiffness and support (and in case of katana split the sole), but the volume stays the same
I'm actually not sure this is true? They have said they don't change the width on the newer models and just soften the structure or reduce the heel volume slightly, but on some of their older lasts there does appear to be a significant difference in volume on mens v womens models.
@@thesii213 Yea but that was waaay back, then they realized men and women dont actually have different width at the foot when curled up in a climbing shoe (as the only brand mind you). The thing is, women have narrower feet because of the shoes they wear all their life and deform them even more than mens shoes (highheels, balerinas). The thing is though, once you curl up your foot in a climbing shoe, it temporarily deforms as well, so actually inside a climbing shoe, the foot shape is the same for both genders - at least thats my understanding. I think once they started doing this, they arent coming back. And as for the new katana, pietro said the volume is the same.
@@alexbarcovsky4319 Agreed. And I know a lot of women with wide feet too! It's just not totally clear which models follow the new last standards and which are still built on older narrower lasts.
I would like to see more descriptive precision is climbing shoe sizing. Some options are forefoot shape; wide, shape of toes, bunched (high volume) or flat (low volume and longer), long second toe or even with big toe; wide heal or narrow. Perhaps it is as simple as each manufacturer listing the exact last style used in forming the shoe, even if it is their proprietary shape, at least it is a starting point.
I bought the new anasazi pinks 2-3 months ago, and they are now my favorite climbing shoes! I bought them to use only in slabs, but they are my option for multipitch and even crack climbing. For sizing, I orderer my street shoe size (42.5 eur) and they are very comfortable, the foot is no loose and the toes are perfect for what I'm looking for when climbing. I could downsize to 42 eur if I want a more technical shoe.
@@ghafaraharashta4581 yes, the new model for anasazi Pink are the actual niad lace. I took my street size and they are pretty confortable, but you can edge very well (i use them for slab and multipitch). If you need something more technical you can take half size down, but be carefull because they dont break like other brands like La Sportiva, they keep at the same size ;)
@@jonathanh1048 Thanks for sharing. I just bought them for comfort fit, so I decided to choose street shoes. Hopefully, the sizing is right for my intermediate climbing in gym.
Unparallel is the only brand that perfectly fits my foot, and I wear a 13.5 USM for down-turned toes in them. I'm probably going to get the Newtro Lace over the Velcro, just because I love purple.
@@doruso5610 ya they have that rounded toe which in theory makes it easier to pivot on edges but it just doesn't feel quite as precise. Toe probably lasts longer though
been having a lot of trouble finding a shoe that fits my heel properly, the heel cup on the niad still looks pretty deep in the video, will have to try it on and see if it's really form fitting or if that's just a buzzword
No. If you’re just starting out get something like a scarps origin, soft and forgiving with rubber that will last you awhile. Use them long enough to decide what you like and don’t like about them then go get a higher performance shoe. If you want something that is a good beginner shoe but still with performance, la sportive finale is good for that
@@maayazi Hai, yes I got it. I bought it in true to size. I haven't worn it often and the first or second sessions will feel like hell because I feel so much pressure on the toe. But, after 4-5 sessions at the gym and it feels more comfortable than when I first started wearing it.
I've been using five 10 since the 90s, had to give up on them when they started production in China after being bought by Adidas. I spent 130 Euros on a rubbish pair of anasazi pinks and have had to move to la Sportiva. I am profoundly pissed off with Adidas for destroying the five ten brand and making sticky rubber wellies.
Top 3 Edging Shoes Of 2022 - therefore none of the other edging weapons except the Katana Lace - which is rereleased in 2022 with a new colour and a bit rubber on the side of the heels - is present. At least the Katana Lace (I climbed the original model) is na absolut edging beast! Extremely stiff and sharp as a razorblade! Matt correctly mentioned that the shoe is not suitable for indoor Bouldering. Sureley that applies to every stiff shoe. The others i don't know. Ah, the 5.10 Anasazi clone by Adidas made in China is called Niad. And the Lace should be the version of "the pinks". Unparallel aka "Five Ten v2" i didn't have on my feet. Anyway, this could also be the list for "quite" narrow models, despite i don't have a clue how the Newtro ist. Since model i mentioned except the Katana Lace Up is from "Five Ten", it is very unlinkely that they would be wide. They may have a higher volume, since they are high, but still narrow.
Any tips on budget friendly shoes which provide comfort and long lastingness for indoor climbs where feet just don't matter as much? I'm going through too many high quality shoes on stuff I could probably do in any climbing shoe
My recommendation for a budget friendly great all around shoe is the Scarpa Veloce. They are on the softer side of things and perform great both indoor and out even if they are only advertised as an indoor shoe. I absolutely love my pair!
@@gearhead8989 They are good, but not what I´m looking for, I´m looking for cheap, indistructible shoes I can wear when the grip of the shoe is secondary. so more something stiff and thick. At my local gym we have a lot of boulders which are focused on bodytension and not so much on the feet, so it does not matter what you´re wearing so long as it´s a climbing shoe
@@herrar6595 idk how much they cost but if you want indestructible, check out the 5.10 Team. It’ll take you a damn long time to wear through that sole.
@@jamesvieira4053 I'm sorry if my comment bothered you but I really don't see it as rude. Maybe just sarcastic since the list really is bad and will lead new climbers into buying bad products.
@@thesii213 I don't really find any unparalleled rubber to be good for edging. The Uprise pro does ok because of the super rand but still won't edge as well as xs edge.
@@LastCookieToCrumble Have you tried the RA rubber though? This is a notch firmer than Vibram Edge in terms of pure durometer. It should do really well for edging.
Oh this is for climbing 😔
💀
Here for this comment
What did you think this is for??
@@MPHshoots minimalist running shoes...
You can make it work dude no worries, especially the 5.10 with its narrow shape
2:13 just to correct you there, sportiva doesnt change volume for womens models, they only change stiffness and support (and in case of katana split the sole), but the volume stays the same
I'm actually not sure this is true? They have said they don't change the width on the newer models and just soften the structure or reduce the heel volume slightly, but on some of their older lasts there does appear to be a significant difference in volume on mens v womens models.
@@thesii213 Yea but that was waaay back, then they realized men and women dont actually have different width at the foot when curled up in a climbing shoe (as the only brand mind you). The thing is, women have narrower feet because of the shoes they wear all their life and deform them even more than mens shoes (highheels, balerinas). The thing is though, once you curl up your foot in a climbing shoe, it temporarily deforms as well, so actually inside a climbing shoe, the foot shape is the same for both genders - at least thats my understanding. I think once they started doing this, they arent coming back. And as for the new katana, pietro said the volume is the same.
@@alexbarcovsky4319 Agreed. And I know a lot of women with wide feet too! It's just not totally clear which models follow the new last standards and which are still built on older narrower lasts.
I would like to see more descriptive precision is climbing shoe sizing. Some options are forefoot shape; wide, shape of toes, bunched (high volume) or flat (low volume and longer), long second toe or even with big toe; wide heal or narrow. Perhaps it is as simple as each manufacturer listing the exact last style used in forming the shoe, even if it is their proprietary shape, at least it is a starting point.
@@larryseibold4287 Totally agreed.
Scarpa Mago, the update is appreciated and nothing stands against for small but distinct footholds on steep walls.
To me,there is nothing like miuras for edging. Painfull shoe to break in but a beast for micro footholdsp
Miura VS and Scrapa Boostic (the old one).
I bought the new anasazi pinks 2-3 months ago, and they are now my favorite climbing shoes! I bought them to use only in slabs, but they are my option for multipitch and even crack climbing.
For sizing, I orderer my street shoe size (42.5 eur) and they are very comfortable, the foot is no loose and the toes are perfect for what I'm looking for when climbing. I could downsize to 42 eur if I want a more technical shoe.
Same here, they are my all time favorites and are very versatile
You mean The new anasazi is Niad Lace? So, is it actually right to choose street shoe size?
@@ghafaraharashta4581 yes, the new model for anasazi Pink are the actual niad lace. I took my street size and they are pretty confortable, but you can edge very well (i use them for slab and multipitch).
If you need something more technical you can take half size down, but be carefull because they dont break like other brands like La Sportiva, they keep at the same size ;)
@@jonathanh1048 Thanks for sharing. I just bought them for comfort fit, so I decided to choose street shoes. Hopefully, the sizing is right for my intermediate climbing in gym.
Unparallel is the only brand that perfectly fits my foot, and I wear a 13.5 USM for down-turned toes in them. I'm probably going to get the Newtro Lace over the Velcro, just because I love purple.
Their lack of pointiness is the only flaw
Wait wait wait wait, you have 14 street size feet? Im not gonna make yeti jokes but just know I got couple of em
@@doruso5610 ya they have that rounded toe which in theory makes it easier to pivot on edges but it just doesn't feel quite as precise. Toe probably lasts longer though
@@doruso5610also helps with different shaped feet. rounded toeboxes and less asymmetry helps with Greek shape feet
been having a lot of trouble finding a shoe that fits my heel properly, the heel cup on the niad still looks pretty deep in the video, will have to try it on and see if it's really form fitting or if that's just a buzzword
What about the new Scarpa Boostic?
Is the niad lace up pink the same shoe Dave Graham boulders in?
Or does he wear the VCS version please???
Yes it’s the same model he uses in the video he did with Matt
@@AndreaR_qualunque nice thank you very much i appreciate it. that was the answer i was looking for.
💯🧗🙏
would the newtro vcs be a good shoe for a beginner gym climber?
No. If you’re just starting out get something like a scarps origin, soft and forgiving with rubber that will last you awhile. Use them long enough to decide what you like and don’t like about them then go get a higher performance shoe. If you want something that is a good beginner shoe but still with performance, la sportive finale is good for that
La sportiva Muira, Muira vs, TC Pro, Otaki, and Kataki are All worth contenders.
when does the giveaway result come out?
need to get me some softer shoes, I like the 5.10 gambit lace, anyone got any similar recommendations? soft shoes crush indoor walls imho.
Skwama and/or Zenist? Also Veloce if it fits?
@@thesii213 much appreciated friend! Haven't tried the endeavor just yet but it's in the line up.
Skwama, theory, python
How about Niad Lace sizing? Im 42 EU on my street shoes
Did you get NIad laces? How are they? Can you tell me all about them?
@@maayazi Hai, yes I got it. I bought it in true to size. I haven't worn it often and the first or second sessions will feel like hell because I feel so much pressure on the toe. But, after 4-5 sessions at the gym and it feels more comfortable than when I first started wearing it.
@@ghafaraharashta4581 Thank you! Do you climb with socks?
@@maayazi No, I usually don't wear socks when I get more comfortable with climbing shoes. Where do you climb? Greetings from here, Indonesia.
@@ghafaraharashta4581 Ah ok. Here in Serbia.
Are any of these good for people with wide feet?
evolv and butora have wide sizing available
If you want awesome edging shoe for wide feet try the LS Miura Velcro.
Bring back the Anasazi Blanco. Also the scarpa boostic is still an edge lord
I've been using five 10 since the 90s, had to give up on them when they started production in China after being bought by Adidas. I spent 130 Euros on a rubbish pair of anasazi pinks and have had to move to la Sportiva.
I am profoundly pissed off with Adidas for destroying the five ten brand and making sticky rubber wellies.
Top 3 Edging Shoes Of 2022 - therefore none of the other edging weapons except the Katana Lace - which is rereleased in 2022 with a new colour and a bit rubber on the side of the heels - is present.
At least the Katana Lace (I climbed the original model) is na absolut edging beast! Extremely stiff and sharp as a razorblade! Matt correctly mentioned that the shoe is not suitable for indoor Bouldering. Sureley that applies to every stiff shoe.
The others i don't know.
Ah, the 5.10 Anasazi clone by Adidas made in China is called Niad. And the Lace should be the version of "the pinks".
Unparallel aka "Five Ten v2" i didn't have on my feet.
Anyway, this could also be the list for "quite" narrow models, despite i don't have a clue how the Newtro ist.
Since model i mentioned except the Katana Lace Up is from "Five Ten", it is very unlinkely that they would be wide.
They may have a higher volume, since they are high, but still narrow.
Gen Alpha looking at the title: 💀
Any tips on budget friendly shoes which provide comfort and long lastingness for indoor climbs where feet just don't matter as much? I'm going through too many high quality shoes on stuff I could probably do in any climbing shoe
My recommendation for a budget friendly great all around shoe is the Scarpa Veloce. They are on the softer side of things and perform great both indoor and out even if they are only advertised as an indoor shoe. I absolutely love my pair!
@@gearhead8989 They are good, but not what I´m looking for, I´m looking for cheap, indistructible shoes I can wear when the grip of the shoe is secondary. so more something stiff and thick. At my local gym we have a lot of boulders which are focused on bodytension and not so much on the feet, so it does not matter what you´re wearing so long as it´s a climbing shoe
@@herrar6595 idk how much they cost but if you want indestructible, check out the 5.10 Team. It’ll take you a damn long time to wear through that sole.
@@herrar6595 Howabout LS Finale, they got 4mm of XS Edge thats gonna take a long time to wear trough...
I would love to have a pair of la sportiva if they finally stop using animal materials 🙄
5.10 made the list. 😂😂 The only shoe here that you see people using on hard edging in the Katana lace. Bad list, poor choices.
The NewTro is cool though? The RA rubber is actually one of the hardest on the market, but performs pretty well despite that.
Yikes dude, why so rude?
@@jamesvieira4053 I'm sorry if my comment bothered you but I really don't see it as rude. Maybe just sarcastic since the list really is bad and will lead new climbers into buying bad products.
@@thesii213 I don't really find any unparalleled rubber to be good for edging. The Uprise pro does ok because of the super rand but still won't edge as well as xs edge.
@@LastCookieToCrumble Have you tried the RA rubber though? This is a notch firmer than Vibram Edge in terms of pure durometer. It should do really well for edging.