Nice! Thinking of doing the same. BTW, what you want for the bottom of the boom is called an “eye strap”. Similar to a pad eye, but the sides meet the surface at a right angle to stop the line jamming. There’s also a “eyestrap with ferrule” if you want a smooth round hole.
Great job. I like your dedign. Rivets are better than screws for the reason you demonstrated. Having said that, I use screws, butI always go slow, and lubricate the screws with loc-tite as I am installing them. And the loc-tite prevents the screws from loosening.
Congratulations on your new start to sailing. My first boat was a 25 Venture by McGregor. A couple things to offer if l might. First a short story about my most memorable, or not, sail on the Pacific with it. I put out of Dana Point CA Harbor on a sunny 80 plus day at 11am for a couple of hour test sail. Headed toward Newport Beach on a nice beam reach. The sea was about 2 feet with 12 knots of wind. No chop, no pounding just a smooth ride at 7 knots which you know is flying for the boat. I picked up a book, leaned back against the starboard cabin, stretched out my legs and began to read with the sun warming me. The next thing l knew l was waking up looking at shore, now at least fifteen miles away, trying to figure out where l was. It was four hours later and l saw l was past Newport Harbor halfway to Catalina Island from shore. I had sailed probably 25 to 30 miles asleep. I realized it was now 3:45 pm and l had no lights or radio. Which meant l had about 4 hours to make it back before total darkness. It was a sketchy ride back until the evening breeze filled in but l made it in the harbor just as sun set. I learned to never JUST go out on the ocean without everything you need and is required. Now a couple of very important tips about the keel. Most important and number one: don't sail with it partially up. Several people have lost the keel when doing that. A sudden wave threw the boat to one side which allowed the keel to swing into the hull much further. When the boat righted the keel slammed back down ripping it from the housing. Now hanging on the lowering cable it began bashing the boat hull in. Which brings me to tip two: l understand wanting to sail with the keel partially raised. However l was leery of this and since Mc Gregor boats was 45 minutes away l drive to the factory and asked about doing so. Mr. McGregor himself overheard my question as he walked by in the yard. He stopped and gave me a lesson in boat, mast, sail and keel balance. He told me to never sail with it raised and of l need to move the boat under power and raise it for clearance, to never raise it over 18 inches. If l was doing that l had to secure the keel in that position. So l dropped the keel, drilled another hole in it through the securing bolt hole and marked my lifting cable at that point so l could locate the hole while in the water. Be quick of you do this in the water and have a bilge pump. Loving your videos keep up the good work on the boat and videos.
WOW what an adventure! sounds like you jumped feet first into sailing like we are doing! great tip about the keel! i actually plan on machining a brass pin for the lockdown. we will eventually sail in Galveston Bay (just south of Houston Tx) which has many shallow scattered reefs. Although we will do our best to check our charts and navigate around the obstructions we want to ensure that in the event of a collision the keel will snap the pin and swing out of the way rather than tear up the keel trunk or mounting pin points. Once the keel is back in the down position we should be able to push the snapped pin out and then install one of the many backups that we will have on board. i will cover this in a future video! Also currently working on my own digital anemometer and autopilot system! I've got the anemometer working and am working on the autopilot logic now. All this will be controlled via a custom app I've created in the MIT app inventor for android! stay tuned for this project coming in about a month or so!
@@newsaltsailing7756 l was thinking you're a construction guy like me. I could see your ability to improvise and improve. I'm 69 now and about to set sail on land. I've looked at all the Rvs and now I'm designing and building one to cover the holes in the life. One thing l forgot to mention (which you have no doubt figured out) is that you need to change and greatly increase the strength of the bracket system for the rudder. You MUST make the rudder a breakaway below the bottom bracket. The Venture was notorious for those dinky brackets and spindly pins breaking. I'm sure you can imagine the situation when your rudder is gone. When l bought my boat the guy had a cable hooked to the rudder. I immediately realized the problem and fixed it. I eventually ended up with a 55' Ketch that my son and l refit and sailed it up and down the coast. By the way, replace the rigging wire and build bigger connecting plates. Those boats were basically for lakes and close to shore on very good days. Losing a mast wasn't unheard of, especially when they got older.
@@newsaltsailing7756 oh and upside the rig wire. Put aluminum sleeves in the keel mounting holes and reinforce them heavily. No doubt you've found the cracked and wallowed out holes already.
Purple Sage luckily the current rudder is already setup for breakaway I do plan to install new rigging before we take it on any coastal adventures aswell!
Holes in aluminum are forever. I would hot glue things while prototyping. Also as long as there is friction your system will twist the boom. It was a sensible idea but I think adjustment should be from the top down not from the bottom up.
Don't they typically use anti-sieze on the threads when installing stainless screws/bolts in aluminum? That might ease the friction and prevent corrosion between tne dissimilar metals. I'm gonna have to try some of those sail lugs when I get to this level of boat projects (my lead, resin, glass & iron bar cored keel is 'deconstructed' and awaiting my attention...). Cheers!
Yes typically tefgel or similar is used. When i re rig the standing rigging i plan on stripping the mast completely Currently the boat is stored in the workshop when not in use so i was not too concerned about corrosion when installing mast hardware
Everyone wants us to drill lots of holes into mast & boom. This is not necessary - have a look to Sailor Pauli's low cost Lazy Jacks System without the need of drilling holes.This is far better and costs nearly nothing!
Nice video. Interesting design. But two things: 1) I would replace all of those screws with stainless steel rivets ASAP. It's worth the small investment for a rivet gun at Harbor Freight. They are only about five bucks and the stainless steel rivets are cheap also. They won't rust and they will never pop out - they a lot stronger than screws. 2) There is no such thing as a "pulley" on a sailboat - we sailors call them "blocks". Good luck with your adventures - sailing is a great hobby and there's always something new to learn.
Nice! Thinking of doing the same.
BTW, what you want for the bottom of the boom is called an “eye strap”. Similar to a pad eye, but the sides meet the surface at a right angle to stop the line jamming. There’s also a “eyestrap with ferrule” if you want a smooth round hole.
Great job. I like your dedign. Rivets are better than screws for the reason you demonstrated. Having said that, I use screws, butI always go slow, and lubricate the screws with loc-tite as I am installing them. And the loc-tite prevents the screws from loosening.
Congratulations on your new start to sailing. My first boat was a 25 Venture by McGregor. A couple things to offer if l might. First a short story about my most memorable, or not, sail on the Pacific with it. I put out of Dana Point CA Harbor on a sunny 80 plus day at 11am for a couple of hour test sail. Headed toward Newport Beach on a nice beam reach. The sea was about 2 feet with 12 knots of wind. No chop, no pounding just a smooth ride at 7 knots which you know is flying for the boat. I picked up a book, leaned back against the starboard cabin, stretched out my legs and began to read with the sun warming me. The next thing l knew l was waking up looking at shore, now at least fifteen miles away, trying to figure out where l was. It was four hours later and l saw l was past Newport Harbor halfway to Catalina Island from shore. I had sailed probably 25 to 30 miles asleep. I realized it was now 3:45 pm and l had no lights or radio. Which meant l had about 4 hours to make it back before total darkness. It was a sketchy ride back until the evening breeze filled in but l made it in the harbor just as sun set. I learned to never JUST go out on the ocean without everything you need and is required. Now a couple of very important tips about the keel. Most important and number one: don't sail with it partially up. Several people have lost the keel when doing that. A sudden wave threw the boat to one side which allowed the keel to swing into the hull much further. When the boat righted the keel slammed back down ripping it from the housing. Now hanging on the lowering cable it began bashing the boat hull in. Which brings me to tip two: l understand wanting to sail with the keel partially raised. However l was leery of this and since Mc Gregor boats was 45 minutes away l drive to the factory and asked about doing so. Mr. McGregor himself overheard my question as he walked by in the yard. He stopped and gave me a lesson in boat, mast, sail and keel balance. He told me to never sail with it raised and of l need to move the boat under power and raise it for clearance, to never raise it over 18 inches. If l was doing that l had to secure the keel in that position. So l dropped the keel, drilled another hole in it through the securing bolt hole and marked my lifting cable at that point so l could locate the hole while in the water. Be quick of you do this in the water and have a bilge pump. Loving your videos keep up the good work on the boat and videos.
WOW what an adventure! sounds like you jumped feet first into sailing like we are doing!
great tip about the keel! i actually plan on machining a brass pin for the lockdown. we will eventually sail in Galveston Bay (just south of Houston Tx) which has many shallow scattered reefs. Although we will do our best to check our charts and navigate around the obstructions we want to ensure that in the event of a collision the keel will snap the pin and swing out of the way rather than tear up the keel trunk or mounting pin points. Once the keel is back in the down position we should be able to push the snapped pin out and then install one of the many backups that we will have on board.
i will cover this in a future video!
Also currently working on my own digital anemometer and autopilot system! I've got the anemometer working and am working on the autopilot logic now. All this will be controlled via a custom app I've created in the MIT app inventor for android! stay tuned for this project coming in about a month or so!
@@newsaltsailing7756 l was thinking you're a construction guy like me. I could see your ability to improvise and improve. I'm 69 now and about to set sail on land. I've looked at all the Rvs and now I'm designing and building one to cover the holes in the life. One thing l forgot to mention (which you have no doubt figured out) is that you need to change and greatly increase the strength of the bracket system for the rudder. You MUST make the rudder a breakaway below the bottom bracket. The Venture was notorious for those dinky brackets and spindly pins breaking. I'm sure you can imagine the situation when your rudder is gone. When l bought my boat the guy had a cable hooked to the rudder. I immediately realized the problem and fixed it. I eventually ended up with a 55' Ketch that my son and l refit and sailed it up and down the coast. By the way, replace the rigging wire and build bigger connecting plates. Those boats were basically for lakes and close to shore on very good days. Losing a mast wasn't unheard of, especially when they got older.
@@newsaltsailing7756 oh and upside the rig wire. Put aluminum sleeves in the keel mounting holes and reinforce them heavily. No doubt you've found the cracked and wallowed out holes already.
Purple Sage yup! The holes have been temporarily reinforced They will be further reinforced when i remove the keel and fair it
Purple Sage luckily the current rudder is already setup for breakaway I do plan to install new rigging before we take it on any coastal adventures aswell!
very impressive. hope you guys do well and move your way up.
Thanks! We will sure keep you posted on our progress!
Holes in aluminum are forever. I would hot glue things while prototyping. Also as long as there is friction your system will twist the boom. It was a sensible idea but I think adjustment should be from the top down not from the bottom up.
you just gained 20 subs by the time I watched your videos 100-120, good work man liking the videos.
Thanks man! ENJOY!
Use a tap in holes, aluminum does not like friction... it will lock and break even the strongest of screws...
Noted! I will have to swap for machine screws. Im not aware of any taps for sheet metal screws
Don't they typically use anti-sieze on the threads when installing stainless screws/bolts in aluminum? That might ease the friction and prevent corrosion between tne dissimilar metals. I'm gonna have to try some of those sail lugs when I get to this level of boat projects (my lead, resin, glass & iron bar cored keel is 'deconstructed' and awaiting my attention...).
Cheers!
Yes typically tefgel or similar is used. When i re rig the standing rigging i plan on stripping the mast completely Currently the boat is stored in the workshop when not in use so i was not too concerned about corrosion when installing mast hardware
Everyone wants us to drill lots of holes into mast & boom. This is not necessary - have a look to Sailor Pauli's low cost Lazy Jacks System without the need of drilling holes.This is far better and costs nearly nothing!
Hows the sailing adventures going are yiu still sailing 😂😂
Brilliant..but I may have missed it. Did the weight of the sail keep the boom from rotating?
Yes it did! You are correct, I never followed up on that in the video!
Nice video. Interesting design. But two things: 1) I would replace all of those screws with stainless steel rivets ASAP. It's worth the small investment for a rivet gun at Harbor Freight. They are only about five bucks and the stainless steel rivets are cheap also. They won't rust and they will never pop out - they a lot stronger than screws. 2) There is no such thing as a "pulley" on a sailboat - we sailors call them "blocks". Good luck with your adventures - sailing is a great hobby and there's always something new to learn.