Reminds me of the advice I used for marking the cuts of the skirt board I built for my staircase. You push it flush to each riser in order to mark the outside surface of the board to then make miters.
Damn! So simple and effective. One of those forehead smackers because I can't believe I never even thought to do this. I've gone as far as putting a piece of painters tape on the floor to extend the casing line out so I can mark top and bottom. Thank you sir!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge Rob. I'm 35 and realizing I know I lot less than I don't know when it comes to just about every trade. For now I'm trying to focus on finish carpentry, painting, and flooring.
Cool marking device! It must be really useful running base out of an inside corner where it’s difficult to test fit each end before sneaking up on a final length. Sometimes I’d use a slightly undersize piece of base to test fit a situation like you are demonstrating. My grandad told my he used to let a clapboard run by an exterior casing then register the back of his handsaw to the casing above letting it lap over the stock. Then score along the back of the saw with a knife marking the clap. Just a handsaw ,pocketknife, hammer and nails up on the staging! It’s a similar way of marking.
I use this to mark outside corners of baseboard. Mine is 1/2" thick plywood, since most baseboard here is 1/2" thick. It's about 8 inches long, and maybe 5 or 6 inches high. The cut-out for the actual baseboard is placed off center, maybe 2 inches in from the end.
If you have a paddle bit or forstner bit that is the correct diameter you could drill it out right in the area where you are using the jigsaw, then cut the peice out and then remove the remaining material and square it up with your jigsaw. Similar to when you are cutting a square hole in something and you drill each corner so you can jigsaw it out. Except you would use a drill bit that is as wide as the piece you are notching out.
So when you put the preacher board up to the door trim that isnt perfectly square, are you holding the preacher square to the wall and marking the inside dimension or are you holding the preacher at the angle of the door trim and marking the outside? Thank you, this is intriguing.
I had this same question/concern. If the previously installed trim board, run vertically here in your video, is not sitting with its edge square to the surface with which the new baseboard will sit, we then have a scribed line that assumes a square cut for a perfect fit when in reality the cut edge will provide a gap either on the front or rear of the installed intersection. In these cases, using the preacher board in a manner that it sits flat against the existing trim, rather than square to the surface, to make the mark and then beveling your cut to match the actual angle of the existing installation will eliminate the gap and also the need for the caulking.
This is nice, another option is when you do the measure up you carry an angle protractor that converts to table saw degrees around with you and label the degrees and end of cut. Saves a trip to and from the saw, per piece.
@@N1rOx not sure I’d make n angle cut on a tablesaw I’d use a miter saw. This method nails the cut every time and eliminates an extra step of adjusting and tracing a bevel or protractor.
@@ConcordCarpenter That was a typo, I meant mitre saw, long day. So you're not actually introducing an extra step as using a projection block "is measuring" the angle, but you won't be making an extra trip to and from the saw, per piece. You're just shifting the "measuring" of the angle part to the measuring stage of the process. So the workflow ultimately looks like this: Measure all lengths and angles. Cut all pieces per cut list. Install all pieces. The time taken to adjust the protractor, read the angle, and note it down takes as long as measuring the length itself with your tape and as such will almost always be faster than a round trip to the saw. I tend to only use this (block) method when cutting very wide stock. It's a very handy and fool-proof method however, and is another "tool" I reach for in my Carpenter's tool kit.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Reminds me of the advice I used for marking the cuts of the skirt board I built for my staircase. You push it flush to each riser in order to mark the outside surface of the board to then make miters.
Damn! So simple and effective. One of those forehead smackers because I can't believe I never even thought to do this. I've gone as far as putting a piece of painters tape on the floor to extend the casing line out so I can mark top and bottom. Thank you sir!
That's what I do or just guess it 😂
@@Tool_Addicted_Carpenter glad you liked it TAC!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge Rob. I'm 35 and realizing I know I lot less than I don't know when it comes to just about every trade. For now I'm trying to focus on finish carpentry, painting, and flooring.
Never to late sir!
Simple bit brilliant , between these tips and your tool reviews I get great advice thanks
Great to hear!
Preacher Board.
Excellent tip!
Thank you Rob 🌈
What does the rainbow emoji mean?
This is so timely. Thank you.
You're so welcome!
Cool marking device! It must be really useful running base out of an inside corner where it’s difficult to test fit each end before sneaking up on a final length. Sometimes I’d use a slightly undersize piece of base to test fit a situation like you are demonstrating. My grandad told my he used to let a clapboard run by an exterior casing then register the back of his handsaw to the casing above letting it lap over the stock. Then score along the back of the saw with a knife marking the clap. Just a handsaw ,pocketknife, hammer and nails up on the staging! It’s a similar way of marking.
@@peterbarlow8912 sure is
Excellent idea! I always used a bevel square, but this is 20x faster and as accurate. Thanks.
You're welcome!
I like that , gonna write it down and use that on big skirting, cheers 👍
Thanks Rob You are the best
Hi Rob good video - just to point out - you have a repeated section at 01:53 where you talk about where you first read about preacher boards.
Brilliant Rob! Thank you!❤
@@jimwiskus8862 thanks
This is a good tip.
@@davel4708 thx
Brilliant thank you
Cool idea! Thanks!
Preacher board? Thank you father, before I sin.. 😅
So good 👍
I use this to mark outside corners of baseboard.
Mine is 1/2" thick plywood, since most baseboard here is 1/2" thick.
It's about 8 inches long, and maybe 5 or 6 inches high. The cut-out for the actual baseboard is placed off center, maybe 2 inches in from the end.
Very interesting - will surely check it out. What is your secret sauce to perfectly installed ceiling trim?
Simple and ingenious
thx
Smart
If you have a paddle bit or forstner bit that is the correct diameter you could drill it out right in the area where you are using the jigsaw, then cut the peice out and then remove the remaining material and square it up with your jigsaw. Similar to when you are cutting a square hole in something and you drill each corner so you can jigsaw it out. Except you would use a drill bit that is as wide as the piece you are notching out.
@@actionjksn yep that’d work!
Good suggestion, but I would make it by using 2 part glue to fasten 2 'legs' and a spacer. That should improve the accuracy of the jig.
Great tip!
Rob,
You are just SO un-woke, calling it a "preacher" board, but only if I was an easily offended Protestant worshiper. Love it. Keep the tips coming.
haha thanks
Can't see the point, the architrave should be square to the floor anyway , just measure it, it's got to be caulked and painted anyway.
So when you put the preacher board up to the door trim that isnt perfectly square, are you holding the preacher square to the wall and marking the inside dimension or are you holding the preacher at the angle of the door trim and marking the outside? Thank you, this is intriguing.
@@tntcyclespdx your marking the plane of the door trim
I had this same question/concern. If the previously installed trim board, run vertically here in your video, is not sitting with its edge square to the surface with which the new baseboard will sit, we then have a scribed line that assumes a square cut for a perfect fit when in reality the cut edge will provide a gap either on the front or rear of the installed intersection. In these cases, using the preacher board in a manner that it sits flat against the existing trim, rather than square to the surface, to make the mark and then beveling your cut to match the actual angle of the existing installation will eliminate the gap and also the need for the caulking.
@@tntcyclespdx marking the trim
@@ConcordCarpenter that makes sense, ty sir.
(Music plays) ..... Was the son of a preacher board! He was he was.
Sorry, couldn't resist that.
@@bigisland-s4g haha
Knew about Duthch Pants but as a finish carpenter never knew about a preacher board ? Yep I am sorry !
When you say out of square are you taking the miter or the bevel or both?
The door casing/trim to the floor plane
Why’s it called a preacher board??
Figures, days after finishing my room yt suggests this to me.
This is nice, another option is when you do the measure up you carry an angle protractor that converts to table saw degrees around with you and label the degrees and end of cut. Saves a trip to and from the saw, per piece.
@@N1rOx not sure I’d make n angle cut on a tablesaw I’d use a miter saw. This method nails the cut every time and eliminates an extra step of adjusting and tracing a bevel or protractor.
@@ConcordCarpenter That was a typo, I meant mitre saw, long day.
So you're not actually introducing an extra step as using a projection block "is measuring" the angle, but you won't be making an extra trip to and from the saw, per piece. You're just shifting the "measuring" of the angle part to the measuring stage of the process.
So the workflow ultimately looks like this:
Measure all lengths and angles.
Cut all pieces per cut list.
Install all pieces.
The time taken to adjust the protractor, read the angle, and note it down takes as long as measuring the length itself with your tape and as such will almost always be faster than a round trip to the saw.
I tend to only use this (block) method when cutting very wide stock. It's a very handy and fool-proof method however, and is another "tool" I reach for in my Carpenter's tool kit.
most people would not pay you to handle the board so many times, and the extra cuts. just learn to read your tape measure
But, content… XD
Never use them in the uk just use a piece of wood to scribe no problem 🏴😜❤️
I didn’t know you could make installing base trim complicated. If you’re having trouble seeing using a tape measure you could just use a small square.
@@stevenfoust3782 this nails the cut every time and eliminates an extra step of adjusting and tracing a bevel.
I bet you use a lot of caulking on your trim jobs that have wide trim.
@@actionjksn nope