You're the perfect teacher not just knowledgeable, but really knowing How To Teach...Those 2 concepts don't come together more often than none believe it or not. I'm inventive, starting in electronics , So your visual aids are just perfect!, clear concise, at a reasonable fast pace...I'm a half a century old, generators mechanic with lots of experience, on top of it recovering/dealing with mild brain trauma, Thank you for doing this , it is just wonderfully explained... Keep up the great work!!
Thanks for making this tutorial Steve! Liked! It's so detailed and well explained, anyone could make it! Will any flyback transformer work? I have some flybacks from old CRT TVs I'm looking to use for future projects.
Love your videos! I been a electronics technician for 45+ yrs. You know your stuff no doubt in the world! I am going to build this . I have all the parts and especially the fly backs and triplers. That flyback you show in this video looks like it came out of a old ctc RCA all tube set . The cap off the transformer went to a tube hi voltage rectifier tube and a tube hi voltage shunt regulator . Usually the shunt regulator handled 25,000 volts DC which then fed the anode on the crt. Thank you for this excellent video!!!!
Thanks. And thanks for watching them. Keep in mind that when I first made it a few years ago I had to learn much of it too. Just take it one piece at a time.
After a week-long delay it's finally out! How to Make a High Voltage Power Supply. The delay was because I really wanted to show how to use something like a wall adapter to feed it when flying the lifter/ionocraft. The breakthrough came when I realized I could use a laptop power supply as the adapter - which I thought was pretty cool!
I haven't gutted one, seen a few tear-downs. Transformer, wave rectifier, mid size cap for rectifier buffer. Sometimes a regulator, resettable fuse, and a few extra diodes for safety. Nothing worth destroying a working 3-6a 20v psu for. The smaller lighter wall warts are oftern a step down buck converter. Sometimes you can change the output voltage. Rarely see them over an amp out though, probably a reason for that... Phone chargers can be good for 5-7v Got a few that will do 1.5a. Put a few in series if you need more volts. They seem to parallel ok too. Been thinking about making my own transformer with a flyback core, and adjustable buck converter. Drive a zvs with a few amps at 290v :)
Basudeb Behera 200W? I don't know. If you want low voltage than you can buy oscillator chips in that frequency range, but you'd probably have to add some amplifications to get that wattage.
Thanks, Grant! I don't know about all flybacks but if it's from an old CRT TV then it should work. It's much the same circuit as in those TVs. If there's electronics attached to the flyback then you'd have to remove it if you can. However, and I haven't tried this myself, that electronics is supposed to be the equivalent of the tripler I show in my video. So theoretically, if you have one with that stuff attached then you could just use it without the tripler. The HV wire has the suction cup.
i almost never sign into youtube. but this deserved a like and a thank you. one of the most straight forward and nicely detailed how to videos/ thank you kindly.
I wouldn't like to say for sure, especially since I'm not familiar with garage door openers, but this is high voltage DC. As long as the voltage is held steady then there isn't any strong fluctuating electromagnetic field. However, when there's a spark there is. Unless someone knows for sure regarding door openers, you'll have to take your chances. I use it in my apartment with computer, answering machine, modem down the hall, and camera a few feet away. No damage.
RimstarOrgHello my name is Glenn. You're such an amazingly knowledgeable man. Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge with us by doing these fascinating experiments. I had seen nearly 20 years ago, an old black and white short film in a documentary hosted by Gillian Anderson showing a scientist that had made an "Ionic lifter". It was the most incredible piece of technology I had ever seen. I have told many people of this over the years, but gradually, as I heard nothing more despite looking, I began to think it was a fraud. Of course I didn't know the name of it until I saw your video. My Daughter, my 2 Grandkids and I love your channel. Again many many thanks. Live long and prosper.
Hi Glenn, The Gillian Anderson episode you saw was from a series called Future Fantastic. The device was made by Major Alexander P. de Seversky: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alexander_P._de_Seversky ruclips.net/video/0S-Ieb7LsGA/видео.html I bought the VHS tape of that episode a long time ago and still have it, though I no longer have a VHS player. I'm glad to hear you and your family are enjoying my channel. It's my pleasure. Thanks for watching it. -Steve
Thanks for the reply Steve. That was certainly an interesting read about Major Severesky. He was a very accomplished and well decorated man. However after following the Ionocraft link on that page, it seems the inventor of the Ionocraft or Gavitator was Thomas Townsend Brown. Although he apparently mistook the phenomenon creating the lift as anti gravity rather than ionic wind. Interestingly he apparently performed a test of his device in a vacuum and it still worked. It was determined that despite the air being evacuated from the chamber, some air remained. I feel a bit of sympathy for the inventor of this device as well as the inventor of the Crooks Radiometer, as they believed they were onto something, which turns out to be something completely different. Still it's possible that these devices have yet to reveal their full potential. I recently saw a childs toy(a spinning wheel suspended between two strings being used in third world countries as a centrifuge for separating blood plasma and platelets. So who knows what the Ionocraft has in store for it. Anyway thanks again Steve. All the best.
Yeah, whenever I have a choice of a hard to find part or something from the house, I choose the one from the house so that it's easy for others to make. Have fun making them this coming summer! As for a link to a purchasable tripler, a quick search found 4 or the one I used on amazon.com. I put a link in the description below this video.
My experiment is safe, or done safely, as you can see from the use of the discharge stick. But the power supply is dangerous since it can deliver milliamps of current, unlike my small homemade Van de Graaffs which are mostly harmless. Hmmm... I think I'll add some warnings. Thanks for bringing it up.
The HV power supply isn't amazing to me either. But that's because I've been using it for years. However, I liked using the laptop power supply to feed it and run the lifter. That was new to me and I was delighted the first time I saw it working!
Could you do a video where you go into depth how the circuit components work as they do, or recommend a good resource that explains that information well please. You're pretty thorough when explaining the reasoning behind the decisions you make when creating these devices. This is an awesome teaching trait that is lacking in most of my university courses, including physics II. Thank you in advance
Another hack for an HV supply is an automotive ignition coil. I built one using that and some high voltage rectifiers some years ago. That's a very old flyback you used! The White cap is made to fit a vacuum tube rectifier.
I made an ignition coil one too a long time ago, though I never documented it. It used a 555 timer chip for the pulsing. I made it so I could have pulsed high voltage that was tunable via the 555. I could adjust voltage and frequency. Regarding the flyback, yeah it's hard to find ones like that that don't have a built in diode these days. I didn't know the cap was made to fit a vacuum tube rectifier though -- thanks for letting me know. Interesting, and that means it's older than I thought!
You may have figured this out by now, but the positive and negative on that radioshack wall wart is set by removing the end and flipping it around. the plug should have writing on it that says tip, and the wire has a + and - on it. Plug it in with the word tip over whichever polarity you want the tip to be.
Do you mean the idea for what video to do? This one was requested by someone in a comment to one of my other videos and also by someone else in a private message, and I think by someone in an email a while back. Many of my videos come from requests.
Yeah, balsa wood is amazingly lightweight. How about getting a drinking straw and cutting it lengthwise into strips. The strips should still be rigid enough. Thin strips of cardboard might work too. I sometimes get cardboard from cereal boxes. If the cardboard bends too easily then fold it lengthwise. And thanks for watching!
I'm sure others have said this already but, you can get much more power (milliamps and volts) by using a modern FBT and MOSFETs. You can get up to 60KV+ although it is pre-rectified it gives a moderate amount of power. The 555 flyback driver will give you a rather balanced power supply that will allow you to adjust the frequency to resonate the transformer. it also can push a lot of amps. (depending on the MOSFET[s] you use.)
A few people have pointed out zvs drivers, but I'm finding that they usually also mention a heating problem with the flyback that causes them to be able to run it for only a short time. So I'm not sure if I'll play around with zvs.
Very clear explanation, this will help us in our project... We will surely contact you if face any problem during the diy Thank you very much from our team.
i like the part where you say "Q1 and Q2 to avoid confusion" while the out-of-focus image and your not-so-good handwriting (I know it's a pain to write on that type of tape :D) make both look like "Q1"
This is a rather good design low cost, simple and probably reliable I will see when I build one. I have simulated the circuit with LT SPICE and made a few tweaks adding a few more turns to the primary and feedback coils plus a small cap (22 uf) to the base bias resistors this seems to improve the circuit. The particularly desirable property is the low voltage supply may be slowly increased and the circuit will self start at about 3 Volts a runs all the way down to about 1.5 volts according to SPICE which has proven reliable in the past.
I recently built a high voltage dc (40-60kv) power supply powered by only 12v dc. I might hook it up to a 9v battery and see what it does! I currently power it from my 12v dc power supply and use the potentiometers on that to control the voltage. I then disassembled a plasma ball and took the high voltage ac circuit out of that. I took that into a diy voltage multiplier. I hooked it up to an ion engine and at that voltage it was insanely beautiful. I might make a video on it. After shoving it in a cardboard box for keeping safe-ish, it would be around $50 (excluding the power supply).
What do you mean by reactor? Anything that puts outputs electricity is a converter: solar panels, batteries, wind turbine, diesel/natural gas/propane generators, hydroelectric plants, nuclear power plants, ...
I really like your trigger setup! You give me ideas..... Great video. Good to see the corona on lifter. I had too much corona last time I tried a lifter... Caught fire.... Printer PSU's can be good too.
Pretty cool. I prefer to use the ZVS circuit to drive flybacks tho, it puts out more power but I can't run it for too long as the primary starts to overheat after a minute or so, the transistors on the other hand barely get warm at all.
For me just using the AC flyback as a out put is more use full , even if it can out put 4kv at max , but from personal exp I know that whit those 2 transistor you can get more high voltage AC if you calc the primary and feedback coil on the outer side of the forayed core (something like 8 for the feedback and 12 for the primary
This is a negative ion generator, though it's a very powerful one. If I switch the connections to the lifter/ionocraft in this video such that the ground connection goes to the thin wire and the high voltage power supply output goes to the aluminum foil then the thin wire would be emitting electrons and causing the surrounding air to be negatively ionized.
hey rimstarOrg thanks for the reply =D i will try those out its all about experimenting i also might try bamboo i have plenty in my backyard its quite light and durable .. cheers !
When you put rounds wires on the transformer, is there a winding under it? Do you have to solider the wires to the transformer? Are those the 18 and 24 gauge wires? Thanks
Marcell Veszpremi No, when you put round wires on the transformer there are no windings under it.No, you don't solder the wires to the transformer. The interaction between the wires and the transformer is through the electromagnetic field that the the various wires createYes, they are 18 and 24 gauge (AWG) wire.
I bought some high voltage capacitors and high voltage diodes from amazing1.com. I used them to make a Cockcroft-Walton voltage multiplier circuit, which is all a multiplier is. I just put a link to my webpage about the one I made in the description below this video. Just make sure you get high voltage rated ones than you need, to avoid accidentally ruining it when making really big sparks.
Hey, i know i am a bit late but any voltage as long as it is enough to spark over, i'd say about 3-4kv is the lowest you can go, but it is recommended to increase capacitance as stored energy will be lower.
I've learned so much from RimstarOrg! Thanks and please, keep it coming. I priced a Fluke high voltage probe on Amazon for over $200 (US). Can you give us an idea of what it does, how it does it and if there is a work around. Most of us are left to guess voltage by arc length (in mm), such as where it starts on a Jacob's ladder using the rule of thumb: 3Kv/mm in dry air.
Thanks! I'm always glad to hear my videos are helping. See my video on taking apart my Fluke HV probe ruclips.net/video/kXq4FCQ0C38/видео.html For how they work, I have some explanation and links on my webpage about making my own rimstar.org/equip/hv150kvprobe/hv150kvprobe.htm Hopefully that helps.
It's ion propulsion. Here's my video explaining how it works ruclips.net/video/01F8V5IhB5k/видео.html and here's one that does a smoke test to show the air flow ruclips.net/video/LOGAaObsN4g/видео.html
Off-hand I don't know of any. It's easy to make a compact 12 volt DC to 5000 volt circuit, but adding the 240 volt AC conversion side adds bulk. But that's just with what I know of. Keep searching and you might find something, unless someone here has ideas.
John Kerley I don't know. I've never measured the output for this one at the flyback. After it's gone through the multiplier then yes, this power supply produces more voltage than the cube power supply. I don't know how many windings are on the high voltage side of either flyback, so I can't guess based on that.It would be difficult to measure both in a way that they can be compared anyway. The cube's flyback has a built-in diode and I'd have to break it to bypass it. Whereas the flyback in this video doesn't have any built-in diode.
I don't have much time and the availability of materials for the power supply. I am building the ionocraft in the other video. Can I just plug in an adapter with a power multiplier and use it on the ionocraft?
No, you need a high voltage. I don't know what the power multiplier is that you're referring to but you need to step up the voltage to around 25,000 volts (versus the 120 or 240 volts from the wall socket). You also need a relatively large amount of current, more than an electrostatic machine like a Van de Graaff generator or Wimshurst machine can supply. There is the idea of using a PC monitor like I do in my "How to Make PC/Computer Monitor into High Voltage Power Supply" video, but it's fairly dangerous so make sure you know what you're doing if you open one of those up.
So if I were to use the homemade negative Cockcroft-Walton voltage multiplier, it would still work the same way? And it would still work for an ionocraft?
Yes, it would work the same way. Provided the only difference was that the Cockcroft-Walton voltage multiplier was configured for negative instead of positive (i.e. it was still as powerful as the one in this video) then yes, it would still work for an ionocraft.
gr8 job merci beaucoup for sharing The new school version uses FET's and diodes to do the switching and only one winding instead of two windings. The FET's dissipate less power so they run cooler and no high power resistors are needed
Hi there, thank you for sharing this video. I am a first timer in building such electrical power supply. However I will be needing it for a project. There is one question that I hope to seek for your clarification. For the 1mm and 0.5mm wires to wrap around the Tripler, must I use the exact same specification on wire diameter? Thank you.
I am planning to make this during summers, but have questions: How can I ensure safety, since my dad is concerned? How can I use the flyback transformer such as the one used by you? (since I'm in India) Also the Voltage Tripler
Your dad is right to be concerned, this is a high voltage and most importantly, also a relatively high current power supply. You'll note that I take safety precautions, such as the long stick I use when demonstrating near the end of this video. But since I can't ensure anyone else's safety, I don't have any videos specifically about safety. I recommend using this with someone who knows how to use it safely or you do so at your own risk. But that might not matter. The flyback transformer is one with no built-in diode. Those are very hard to find these days. It might be easier to find and use an old PC monitor like I do here ruclips.net/video/r32e0QGdm8U/видео.html Of course, that want also requires being concerned about safety. For more about the flyback and the tripler, see my webpage here rimstar.org/equip/30kv_pwr_supply.htm Scroll down to the Power Supplies section of this webpage to see all my power supplies, including more about the monitor
No, it's a very different circuit and works in a very different way. Also, the output of a joule thief is spikey voltage and current whereas the output of this power supply is DC, constant voltage and current.
No, I don't. But it's a very common flyback transformer circuit that has a voltage multiplier/tripler added to the output of that circuit in order to convert the output to DC and increase the voltage. I used to have a link to a great page explaining the flyback circuit but it no longer exists. However, the flyback circuit is very common so you should be able to find an explanation out there somewhere.
I love how most of your tutorial revolve around using the cheapest, around the house items. I am surprised i haven't seen your projects until recently! I (time allowing) may make a few of these this coming summer! One question though, about this HV producer. The 30kv tripler/Cockcroft-walton Voltage multiplier. I tried looking such a device up, and i can't seem to find anything with those specifications. Could you possibly send me a link of a purchasable one that would suite this power supply?
Thank you for great tutorial sir. I just wonder how much current rated on the HV side? and Is it suitable to use in long term (about six hours)? Sorry for my bad english.
Thanks. I would guess the minimum current rating would be whatever the current rating is for the 2N3055 transistors you use. I say that because I once produced a strong enough spark to damage one of those transistors. I show fixing it in this video ruclips.net/video/Kb0WwsJgTMM/видео.html As for whether or not it's suitable for long term use, I've only ever run it for a few minutes at a time so I can't say for sure. But I think I've run it long enough that if anything was heating up, it would cause damage. However, my loads are usually around 25000 volts with moderate current (I would guess) when flying lifters.
The only other option is to buy one. Make sure you get one that at least 26,000 volts and high current, around 1 milliamp to be sure it would work. It must also be direct current (DC) and not alternating current (AC). That means a tesla coil will not work. One place to buy them is amazing1.com. Note that these are relatively high power high voltage power supplies and you must know what you're doing to be safe.
EPaR - Aidan Gieg No, it's quite different. The output of a joule thief is mostly zero with periodic spikes of power. The output of this one is flat DC, so constant output. And don't be misled by the fact that both joule thief and this power supply have transistors. The transistors do very different things in the two circuits.
RimstarOrg I beg to dis agree, your circuit is a jewel thief on steroids, your transistors are on 50% of the time, jewel thief is more like 20% tops, mostly less that 20%. your circuit is more efficient. I always called a joule thief a jewel thief.
N8ZU Oh wow! You're right. That joule thief just keeps following me everywhere I go. :) It's much clearer when you look at the single transistor version of this circuit. Aidan Gieg, I also misread your question and was thinking of the output from the multiplier - that output is flat DC. The output from the transistor/flyback portion of the circuit is as N8ZU said.
hey there RimstarOrg ... thats quite a nice power supply setup you built ! i like the vintage flyback as well works very well for your ion lifter .. had a question for you about your lifter .. is there some other lightweight materials i could use instead of the balsa wood .. i want to build one for one of my next projects but most of the model stores here in Germany are for trains only .. thanks for the video cheers mate !
Hi, hope you have a very good Christmas and New Year. I want to ask two questions. Do I need I the cap on the end of the flyback? I mean whether I can cut the cap and connect the flyback's wire with the tripler's wire by soldering them together. And do you have any suggestions where can I get the metal balls because I try to look for them even on the Internet, but I can't find. Thank you.
You don't need the cap. You can solder the flyback's wire with the tripler's wire. Try to use a big rounded blob of solder; avoid sharp points like the sharp ends of wires being exposed. Since this is the high voltage side of things, sharp ends can cause ionization to the surrounding air and reduce your maximum voltage. As for the balls, any smoothed edges metal object will do. Desk drawer handles, and door handles are usually rounded, you can cut off any sharp parts. They don't have to be perfect balls. I even have some 1/2 inch thick copper rod that I cut short pieces from and sand them so they're well rounded. Maybe even something in stores with things for the kitchen will do.
I was using the exact same adapter for my flyback circuit which was pretty similar to yours, without the tripler, and with a better transistor. My arc was just as long as yours if not longer.. The adapter burnt out and caught fire.
lepayen The transistor can definitely make a difference. Keep in mind that I wasn't trying for a longest arc. I avoid that sort of thing because it can damage the power supply. But not going with a tripler also makes for a different animal. If your flyback doesn't have a built-in diode, like mine doesn't, and you don't have a tripler then you're putting out high voltage AC instead of DC and you can draw out a nice long arc. If your flyback has a built-in diode and no tripler then you're putting out DC but at a lower voltage and higher current, which in my experience with my cube power supply can also draw out a nice long arc (see my cube power supply here ruclips.net/video/-KFhBVfpfDw/видео.html).The power supply in this video that we're commenting is intended as a workhorse - for doing things like ion propulsion, powering lifters and so on.
I wasn't thinking about the fact that your flyback is not rectified. That would require a voltage multiplier or marx generator to make it DC without a rectifying diode. I was thinking of buying a non rectified flyback and putting a full wave rectifier on it for a special experiment. . Granted I will have to buy some high voltage diodes as well to make the rectifier.
I have found that most of the time the transistor that's in the television with the flyback is the best one for that particular flyback, if you're using the coils already existing that is. Obviously making your own coils will affect how well the flyback works.
lepayen Funnily enough, the only time I took a flyback from a TV, the flyback was the only thing left in the TV for me to take! :D The transistor and everything else was gone when I found the TV beside the street. I don't know why they left just the flyback. Maybe the input coils were the reason the TV was no longer working. But I replaced those so it didn't matter to me.
That's possible. Perhaps they had no idea what it did. So many televisions and other electronics get tossed out around my city, I've been harvesting parts left, right and center. The best place to check is usually behind apartment buildings.
Hi, I was wondering if the high voltage frequencies would mess with sensitive electronics. I work on my projects on a work bench in my garage, and I'm afraid that the high frequencies may break the garage door opener.
Sir plz tell me Which is the negative and positive terminal of this HVPV that you used to power the Smoke Precipitator.....I had watched your video multiple times but I can't figure the negative and positive terminal out...
With the smoke precipitator, the aluminum foil cylinder is connected to the high voltage positive, and the wire mesh is connected to ground, which is the same as the high voltage power supply's ground, which I explained in the other comment. There is no high voltage negative, though you can get negative charge from it like I do in the smoke precipitator. That's because the high voltage positive attracts negative charge from the ground. The plug coming from the wall socket that powers the lower voltage power supply has a ground wire. That's connected to the low voltage power supply's negative output, so that's also at ground potential. That goes to the high voltage power supply's negative input, so that's also at ground potential. And that's also connected to the flyback transformer's ground pin and the voltage multiplier's ground pin (see the circuit diagram). So all those points are electrically connected together and are at ground potential. As I said in the other comment, there isn't really any negative. It's really 0V, and the high voltage positive output is 30,000 volts away from that 0 volts.
Is it possible to control the voltage that is being supplied by the device? For example, if I needed 20kV, would I be able to change the amount of voltage outputted?
Yes, that's controlled by controlling the input DC voltage. I feed it anywhere from 0 to 24 VDC. Starting at 8:21, you see me connecting up a low voltage DC power supply which can output from 0 to 24 VDC. That low voltage power supply takes in AC voltage and outputs voltage to the high voltage power supply. To control that DC output, I control the AC input. And that's done using the red thing called a VARIAC. So the path is: AC wall socket > VARIAC (0 - 120 VAC output) > low voltage power supply (0 - 24 VDC output) > high voltage power supply (0 - 30 kVDC output, sort of, if I recall correctly it's something more like 0V and then 10kVDC - 30 kVDC). Of course, your DC input source to the high voltage power supply might be different. See my webpages about these power supply for clearer pictures: rimstar.org/equip/24v_pwr_supply.htm and rimstar.org/equip/30kv_pwr_supply.htm
The parts store I went to did not have mounting kits for the transistors, are the collectors only on the securing plates? And would I be able to skip that by soldering a wire onto the posts, or is it something I actualy need?
The mounting kit is optional. It does make it easier to mount onto the heat sink without having an electrical connection to the heat sink. The collector is the case of the transistor so often you can just put the wire between the case and the nuts and bolts that you use to hold the case in place.
Thanks for this video. great work. please help me out. what happen if hv output wire shorted with ground? if its damage the circuit then what will be the solution of short circuit protection. thanks in advance
A short circuit would damage one of the transistors due to the high current, similar to too strong of a spark, as I found and fixed in this video ruclips.net/video/Kb0WwsJgTMM/видео.html. Hopefully it would damage the transistor before getting to damage the flyback transformer. There are things you can add around the transistor to help with too much current, which I talk about in the section called "Transistor protection - capacitors and diodes" on my webpage here rimstar.org/equip/30kv_pwr_supply.htm. But then it might just damage something else instead. But for a short circuit, ideally there would be a fuse or breaker somewhere, probably at the input. I just don't know what value to put. The only way I can think you could check is to try out your power supply while monitoring the input current under normal usage and then put in a fuse that's a little higher than that current.
It's a good question. If you look at the complete circuit, you'll see that that alligator clip I used to connect the ground to the laptop adaptor's negative is electrically connected all the way into the high voltage power supply to the voltage multiplier. The purpose is really to make the positive high voltage be relative to ground. For example, the high voltage output for the high voltage power supply tops out at 30kV, but 30kV relative to what? It has to be relative to something. A safe thing to do is to make it 30kV relative to whatever potential the objects and people in the room are at. So by grounding the negative of the high voltage power supply, the 30kV is 30kV away from whatever everything else in the room is at. The alternative is to have the 30kV be floating, relative to nothing in particular, in which case it would be any voltage relative to the surroundings, possibly a dangerous amount or possibly a useless amount.
Which negative terminal are you referring to? Overall, grounding is used for this power supply so that we have something for the 30 kV to be relative to. Voltage is always relative to something. So this power supply can put out 30,000 volts relative to whatever ground we use.
you should spend more time making assembly videos your good at it. thank you I am eager to build a bug zapper as well i would like to see the "iano craft" things like that need to be shown to kids these are the things that stimulate constrructive thoughts I am sure
I don't know. :) I of course know what duty cycle means, and can guess what duty cycle limit means, but this is the first I've heard of those terms. What's a continuous power supply?
one more thing: I tried simulating the circuit in Proteus and even in PSpice but I did not find a representation for the flyback transformer and the NTE521 tripler. I would like you to please tell me how you drew the circuit, possibly what model did you use to represent the flyback transformer or the software you used. Thanks
+MAXWELL AMOAH I didn't use any software or do any modelling. This is a very old and common circuit. I think I originally got it from here many years ago jnaudin.free.fr/html/lifterb.htm but you can find that circuit all over the web.
Thank you for your previous reply on the wire size. I had purchased a flyback transformer which is a China made BSC25-4803. I had looked up the data pin details and found out that pins are label as C-B+-NC-AFC-GRND-H/T-ABL-TP. Which mean in order to ground my flyback, I should solder the pin that belongs to GRND to the capacitor's negative? Please do correct me if I am wrong.Meanwhile, I notice that my Tripler (BG2097-642-306) has a black suction cup while the one that you are using doesn't. That shall be the part connecting to a CRT as HV output right? Shall I cut off the suction cup and reveal the wire?
Yes, solder the pin for GRND to the capacitor's negative. On my flyback that was pin 2. And yes, the black suction cup on the tripler is the part connecting to a CRT as HV output. I don't remember if mine came with a suction cup attached or not. But yes, you'll need to cut off the suction cup to reveal the wire and make use of it.
meow290 Yes, the output will be the same. The wattage indicates how much wattage is can dissipate before heating up and being damaged. So your 5W one can handle more.
Most TV's flybacks will have a diode built in which means there'd be a lot of extra bulk to the flyback, like this rimstar.org/science_electronics_projects/high_voltage_power_supply_w_flyback_transformer_builtin_diodes/flyback_builtin_diodes_blue_bkgd_cran.jpg. A suitable one wouldn't have all that extra bulk. It would have a more visible coil and look something like this rimstar.org/equip/30kv_pwr_supply/flyback_transformer_with_just_coil_and_core_cr.jpg. The problem with the one with the built in diode is that it can't power a tripler. A tripler wants AC and one with a built in diode puts out pulsed DC. The tripler is what raises the voltage from 20kV to 30kV in this circuit. If you have one with a built in diode then you can try removing the diode but I'm not sure it's even possible. I looked online a short while ago and didn't see any good ways of doing it.
hello, i just built the unit with a modern day fly back as you used in the cube and tripler as you used in the video with the antique fly back that no-one can find. do you have a video that combines the modern day fly back and the tripler? The circuit i have does not solder any wires to any pins or utilize the focus wire or screen wire . This is my 1st project and I am certain I am only 1connection away from success. The antique flyback had a black wire from pin 2 to the negative post of the capacitor what do I do instead since I have a modern day flyback?
I'm pretty sure a flyback with a built in diode, as in the cube, won't work with a tripler. A tripler needs AC as input whereas a flyback with a built in diode produces pulsed DC. I've never tried bypassing or removing a diode from a flyback that has one and I was recently asked about it and it looks like it might not be possible for some flybacks as it may be encased in epoxy, though I wouldn't rule out the possibility. But you can still use what you have, just without the tripler. You will have a lower voltage output like the cube does, though you won't be able to fly a lifter is that's what you were after. Regarding the pin, see the video about making the cube where I show one way to find the pin ruclips.net/video/-KFhBVfpfDw/видео.html.
Thank you for the timely reply. It is the lifter I am interested in flying and I thought I saw you fly it with the cube. I have enough parts to build both however and I am looking at an( admiral 79c77-5 flyback transformer) on ebay. It looks close to your old one but, like I said I have a lot to learn but I am open to any suggestions as to which one to purchase to make the job easier and I am extremely grateful for all that you are doing to enlighten and advance us all. I am using a 0-30 volt 5 amp variable Dc power supply to power my high voltage power supply and I have even tried using it to power a step up power supply that uses 6-12 volt input and puts out 500k, no success yet but I am in it for the long haul, Thanks again, Take care, Rob
So I purchased the above mentioned( admiral 79c77-5 flyback transformer) I installed it as shown and looked for which pin was showing coronal discharge; none were, nothing seems to work. Q2 transformer is not getting hot like Q1so I took it apart tested forward bias and reverse(its good). Did i fry the tripler by feeding it with pulsed DC instead of AC on the first try? I checked continuity from all wires on the tripler and none of them register. What next? Anyone?
As far as I understand, no matter what kind of electricity you feed to a transformator ( AC or pulsed DC), you will always get AC output. Would you help me to understand how do you get DC out of a flyback transformator? :)
To turn AC into DC you need at least one diode (also called a rectifier). Diodes allow electrical current to pass through them one direction only, provided you have the right diode for the amount of voltage and current you're using. In the power supply in this video the multiplier, that comes just after the transformer in the circuit, contains diodes and does the conversion from AC to DC. Search for diodes, rectifiers, full wave bridge rectifiers, ...
so the tripler I got looks very similar to yours, and is also made by NTE however mine says on the HV out it puts out 40KV would the resistors, capacitors, and transistors in your video still work, or would I need to get ones that can handle the extra 10kv?
Thank you for such a great video. I'm currently making my own HV supply based on your instructions. I have one question before I start: Is it necessary to have the metal balls? I assume these are purely optional in order to create sparks from a ground rod.
With high voltage, losses can occur where you have sharp points in your wiring. Those sharp points ionize the surrounding air, leaking charge into the air, decreasing the available current and voltage. So I try to make connections with a few sharp points as possible. Having rounded metal balls as part of that connection helps to reduce the sharpness of the connection.
Great video, I already make this kind of power supply, but using MOSFET based on ZVS driver schematic that I search on the internet, but I have a question, about the power supply you make that supply 24 DC, you said it was home made right ?, and if it so, can it be adjusted ? and I am also wonder if you can make a video how to make one ?, or can you tell me the components that is required to make one of those power supply.
The details for the 24 VDC power supply are on my website here rimstar.org/equip/24v_pwr_supply.htm. I control the voltage using a VARIAC, as you can see on the webpage (that's the big red thing I manipulate in the videos), but I don't have any control over the current.
Oh, it has a 1 amp fuse on the input side when getting input from the 120 V household AC. That means the maximum current on the 24 VDC output is around 5 amps (120/24 x 1 = 5).
Well thank you for replying my comment, I really appreciate that. So you control the voltage using a VARIAC, a variable transformer, but i thought there are some circuits inside your home made power suppy in wich control the output that is DCV, instead of controling the input ACV to the transformer. In my country a VARIAC is very exspensive and also not much are available that is rated for 220 VAC , mostly it rated for 110 - 120 VAC, because of this I want to ask your suggestion for the circuit that is capable to control the DC output voltage with a fixed current of maximum 5 A..?
I see.., well its ok then, thank you so much for your time I really appreciated that and I am looking forward for your new video about amazing projects inhe future, thank you so much...
That's what happens with a transformer. An inverter takes DC and converts it to AC. The AC voltage can be higher or lower than the DC, it just depends on the inverter. For example, inverters used in solar power systems could convert the DC from a 24 V battery bank to 120 V AC or it could convert the DC from a 200 V battery bank to 120 V AC (for example). The power should be the same but with losses due to inefficiencies.
RimstarOrg Therefore, there are 3 kinds of wires for this right? The red one is 24 gauge, the white one is 18 and the black one is 18 too, right? I mean whether I need a 18 gauge of red wire?
Hoai Thu I just opened it up to doublecheck and the black is 18, the red and white are both 24. But 18 would work for all of them if that's all you have.
You're the perfect teacher not just knowledgeable, but really knowing How To Teach...Those 2 concepts don't come together more often than none believe it or not. I'm inventive, starting in electronics , So your visual aids are just perfect!, clear concise, at a reasonable fast pace...I'm a half a century old, generators mechanic with lots of experience, on top of it recovering/dealing with mild brain trauma, Thank you for doing this , it is just wonderfully explained... Keep up the great work!!
Thanks for making this tutorial Steve! Liked! It's so detailed and well explained, anyone could make it! Will any flyback transformer work? I have some flybacks from old CRT TVs I'm looking to use for future projects.
I never expected you
We miss you grant, TKOR channel will never be the same without you, youtube will never be the same without you.
awesome channel
Love your videos! I been a electronics technician for 45+ yrs. You know your stuff no doubt in the world! I am going to build this . I have all the parts and especially the fly backs and triplers. That flyback you show in this video looks like it came out of a old ctc RCA all tube set . The cap off the transformer went to a tube hi voltage rectifier tube and a tube hi voltage shunt regulator . Usually the shunt regulator handled 25,000 volts DC which then fed the anode on the crt. Thank you for this excellent video!!!!
Thanks. And thanks for watching them. Keep in mind that when I first made it a few years ago I had to learn much of it too. Just take it one piece at a time.
After a week-long delay it's finally out! How to Make a High Voltage Power Supply. The delay was because I really wanted to show how to use something like a wall adapter to feed it when flying the lifter/ionocraft. The breakthrough came when I realized I could use a laptop power supply as the adapter - which I thought was pretty cool!
Laptop PSU's are great. I get lots on freecycle.com :)
Have you cracked one open for parts? If so, anything good inside?
I haven't gutted one, seen a few tear-downs. Transformer, wave rectifier, mid size cap for rectifier buffer. Sometimes a regulator, resettable fuse, and a few extra diodes for safety. Nothing worth destroying a working 3-6a 20v psu for. The smaller lighter wall warts are oftern a step down buck converter. Sometimes you can change the output voltage. Rarely see them over an amp out though, probably a reason for that... Phone chargers can be good for 5-7v Got a few that will do 1.5a. Put a few in series if you need more volts. They seem to parallel ok too. Been thinking about making my own transformer with a flyback core, and adjustable buck converter. Drive a zvs with a few amps at 290v :)
RimstarOrg How to make high frequency power supply? Specification likely 3 MHz-20 MHz and 200 W?
Basudeb Behera
200W? I don't know. If you want low voltage than you can buy oscillator chips in that frequency range, but you'd probably have to add some amplifications to get that wattage.
Oh! So I can! I have another adapter which came with a bunch of tips that you could do that to. I hadn't realized it was a more general thing. Thanks!
Thanks, Grant! I don't know about all flybacks but if it's from an old CRT TV then it should work. It's much the same circuit as in those TVs. If there's electronics attached to the flyback then you'd have to remove it if you can. However, and I haven't tried this myself, that electronics is supposed to be the equivalent of the tripler I show in my video. So theoretically, if you have one with that stuff attached then you could just use it without the tripler. The HV wire has the suction cup.
RimstarOrg
How much volt flyback transformer is used in this video
i almost never sign into youtube. but this deserved a like and a thank you. one of the most straight forward and nicely detailed how to videos/ thank you kindly.
I wouldn't like to say for sure, especially since I'm not familiar with garage door openers, but this is high voltage DC. As long as the voltage is held steady then there isn't any strong fluctuating electromagnetic field. However, when there's a spark there is. Unless someone knows for sure regarding door openers, you'll have to take your chances. I use it in my apartment with computer, answering machine, modem down the hall, and camera a few feet away. No damage.
RimstarOrgHello my name is Glenn. You're such an amazingly knowledgeable man. Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge with us by doing these fascinating experiments. I had seen nearly 20 years ago, an old black and white short film in a documentary hosted by Gillian Anderson showing a scientist that had made an "Ionic lifter". It was the most incredible piece of technology I had ever seen. I have told many people of this over the years, but gradually, as I heard nothing more despite looking, I began to think it was a fraud. Of course I didn't know the name of it until I saw your video. My Daughter, my 2 Grandkids and I love your channel. Again many many thanks. Live long and prosper.
Hi Glenn, The Gillian Anderson episode you saw was from a series called Future Fantastic. The device was made by Major Alexander P. de Seversky:
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alexander_P._de_Seversky
ruclips.net/video/0S-Ieb7LsGA/видео.html
I bought the VHS tape of that episode a long time ago and still have it, though I no longer have a VHS player.
I'm glad to hear you and your family are enjoying my channel. It's my pleasure. Thanks for watching it. -Steve
Thanks for the reply Steve. That was certainly an interesting read about Major Severesky. He was a very accomplished and well decorated man. However after following the Ionocraft link on that page, it seems the inventor of the Ionocraft or Gavitator was Thomas Townsend Brown. Although he apparently mistook the phenomenon creating the lift as anti gravity rather than ionic wind. Interestingly he apparently performed a test of his device in a vacuum and it still worked. It was determined that despite the air being evacuated from the chamber, some air remained. I feel a bit of sympathy for the inventor of this device as well as the inventor of the Crooks Radiometer, as they believed they were onto something, which turns out to be something completely different. Still it's possible that these devices have yet to reveal their full potential. I recently saw a childs toy(a spinning wheel suspended between two strings being used in third world countries as a centrifuge for separating blood plasma and platelets. So who knows what the Ionocraft has in store for it. Anyway thanks again Steve. All the best.
Yeah, whenever I have a choice of a hard to find part or something from the house, I choose the one from the house so that it's easy for others to make. Have fun making them this coming summer! As for a link to a purchasable tripler, a quick search found 4 or the one I used on amazon.com. I put a link in the description below this video.
WONDERFUL work and information. Thank you Steve.
Great video.
My experiment is safe, or done safely, as you can see from the use of the discharge stick. But the power supply is dangerous since it can deliver milliamps of current, unlike my small homemade Van de Graaffs which are mostly harmless. Hmmm... I think I'll add some warnings. Thanks for bringing it up.
The HV power supply isn't amazing to me either. But that's because I've been using it for years. However, I liked using the laptop power supply to feed it and run the lifter. That was new to me and I was delighted the first time I saw it working!
Could you do a video where you go into depth how the circuit components work as they do, or recommend a good resource that explains that information well please. You're pretty thorough when explaining the reasoning behind the decisions you make when creating these devices. This is an awesome teaching trait that is lacking in most of my university courses, including physics II. Thank you in advance
Another hack for an HV supply is an automotive ignition coil. I built one using that and some high voltage rectifiers some years ago. That's a very old flyback you used! The White cap is made to fit a vacuum tube rectifier.
I made an ignition coil one too a long time ago, though I never documented it. It used a 555 timer chip for the pulsing. I made it so I could have pulsed high voltage that was tunable via the 555. I could adjust voltage and frequency. Regarding the flyback, yeah it's hard to find ones like that that don't have a built in diode these days. I didn't know the cap was made to fit a vacuum tube rectifier though -- thanks for letting me know. Interesting, and that means it's older than I thought!
You may have figured this out by now, but the positive and negative on that radioshack wall wart is set by removing the end and flipping it around. the plug should have writing on it that says tip, and the wire has a + and - on it. Plug it in with the word tip over whichever polarity you want the tip to be.
Do you mean the idea for what video to do? This one was requested by someone in a comment to one of my other videos and also by someone else in a private message, and I think by someone in an email a while back. Many of my videos come from requests.
Yeah, balsa wood is amazingly lightweight. How about getting a drinking straw and cutting it lengthwise into strips. The strips should still be rigid enough. Thin strips of cardboard might work too. I sometimes get cardboard from cereal boxes. If the cardboard bends too easily then fold it lengthwise. And thanks for watching!
I'm sure others have said this already but, you can get much more power (milliamps and volts) by using a modern FBT and MOSFETs. You can get up to 60KV+ although it is pre-rectified it gives a moderate amount of power. The 555 flyback driver will give you a rather balanced power supply that will allow you to adjust the frequency to resonate the transformer. it also can push a lot of amps. (depending on the MOSFET[s] you use.)
A few people have pointed out zvs drivers, but I'm finding that they usually also mention a heating problem with the flyback that causes them to be able to run it for only a short time. So I'm not sure if I'll play around with zvs.
I am a fan of your presentation style
Thanks for the vote of confidence. I appreciate it.
My pleasure. Thanks for watching!
Tutorial: "And now there should be high voltage on the balls"
Guards at Guantánamo: "Write that down!"
What's a lab PSU? How is it different from this one? Do you mean one with adjustable current too?
For more complicated projects like this, could you use a schematic instead of visual diagrams? Like the ones you used when you found the design?
Very clear explanation, this will help us in our project...
We will surely contact you if face any problem during the diy
Thank you very much from our team.
engg wali kaaam
Thanks. Glad you like it.
Thanks. I guess it's easier to use a heat sink with a transistor than it is to cool a primary. Lowering the frequency would be boring. :)
i like the part where you say "Q1 and Q2 to avoid confusion" while the out-of-focus image and your not-so-good handwriting (I know it's a pain to write on that type of tape :D) make both look like "Q1"
Thanks Dan. Looking forward to more of yours too.
Thinking of looking in the description before wouldn't have helped you anyway. I dug up the link and put it there when you asked for it. :)
Very nice power supply!
This is a rather good design low cost, simple and probably reliable I will see when I build one. I have simulated the circuit with LT SPICE
and made a few tweaks adding a few more turns to the primary and feedback coils plus a small cap (22 uf) to the base bias resistors
this seems to improve the circuit. The particularly desirable property is the low voltage supply may be slowly increased and the circuit
will self start at about 3 Volts a runs all the way down to about 1.5 volts according to SPICE which has proven reliable in the past.
Thanks for step by step a person can follow easily. Will be making shortly.
I recently built a high voltage dc (40-60kv) power supply powered by only 12v dc. I might hook it up to a 9v battery and see what it does! I currently power it from my 12v dc power supply and use the potentiometers on that to control the voltage. I then disassembled a plasma ball and took the high voltage ac circuit out of that. I took that into a diy voltage multiplier. I hooked it up to an ion engine and at that voltage it was insanely beautiful. I might make a video on it. After shoving it in a cardboard box for keeping safe-ish, it would be around $50 (excluding the power supply).
What do you mean by reactor? Anything that puts outputs electricity is a converter: solar panels, batteries, wind turbine, diesel/natural gas/propane generators, hydroelectric plants, nuclear power plants, ...
I really like your trigger setup! You give me ideas..... Great video. Good to see the corona on lifter. I had too much corona last time I tried a lifter... Caught fire....
Printer PSU's can be good too.
That's partly why I made this video. I figured it would help people making lifters.
Pretty cool. I prefer to use the ZVS circuit to drive flybacks tho, it puts out more power but I can't run it for too long as the primary starts to overheat after a minute or so, the transistors on the other hand barely get warm at all.
For me just using the AC flyback as a out put is more use full , even if it can out put 4kv at max , but from personal exp I know that whit those 2 transistor you can get more high voltage AC if you calc the primary and feedback coil on the outer side of the forayed core (something like 8 for the feedback and 12 for the primary
Ok mad scientist (btw the hho gen was awesome) are you like an electrical engineer or something?
This is a negative ion generator, though it's a very powerful one. If I switch the connections to the lifter/ionocraft in this video such that the ground connection goes to the thin wire and the high voltage power supply output goes to the aluminum foil then the thin wire would be emitting electrons and causing the surrounding air to be negatively ionized.
hey rimstarOrg thanks for the reply =D i will try those out its all about experimenting i also might try bamboo i have plenty in my backyard its quite light and durable .. cheers !
When you put rounds wires on the transformer, is there a winding under it? Do you have to solider the wires to the transformer? Are those the 18 and 24 gauge wires? Thanks
Marcell Veszpremi No, when you put round wires on the transformer there are no windings under it.No, you don't solder the wires to the transformer. The interaction between the wires and the transformer is through the electromagnetic field that the the various wires createYes, they are 18 and 24 gauge (AWG) wire.
I bought some high voltage capacitors and high voltage diodes from amazing1.com. I used them to make a Cockcroft-Walton voltage multiplier circuit, which is all a multiplier is. I just put a link to my webpage about the one I made in the description below this video. Just make sure you get high voltage rated ones than you need, to avoid accidentally ruining it when making really big sparks.
Hey,
I'm about to try your spark gap tesla coil just wanted to know how much voltage is required as input?
Please respond!
Hey, i know i am a bit late but any voltage as long as it is enough to spark over, i'd say about 3-4kv is the lowest you can go, but it is recommended to increase capacitance as stored energy will be lower.
No problem! I've got a pretty big collection of the tips and a couple of the transformers.
I've learned so much from RimstarOrg! Thanks and please, keep it coming.
I priced a Fluke high voltage probe on Amazon for over $200 (US). Can you give us an idea of what it does, how it does it and if there is a work around. Most of us are left to guess voltage by arc length (in mm), such as where it starts on a Jacob's ladder using the rule of thumb: 3Kv/mm in dry air.
Thanks! I'm always glad to hear my videos are helping.
See my video on taking apart my Fluke HV probe ruclips.net/video/kXq4FCQ0C38/видео.html For how they work, I have some explanation and links on my webpage about making my own rimstar.org/equip/hv150kvprobe/hv150kvprobe.htm Hopefully that helps.
Is the lift electrostatic... or electrogravitic?
It's ion propulsion. Here's my video explaining how it works ruclips.net/video/01F8V5IhB5k/видео.html and here's one that does a smoke test to show the air flow ruclips.net/video/LOGAaObsN4g/видео.html
Off-hand I don't know of any. It's easy to make a compact 12 volt DC to 5000 volt circuit, but adding the 240 volt AC conversion side adds bulk. But that's just with what I know of. Keep searching and you might find something, unless someone here has ideas.
Ah, I was kinda hoping someone would explain. Thanks.
A 12 inch long flyback... Did you make that yourself? Where would you get such a thing?
Does this flyback circuit produce more voltage than your "cube circuit" because the flyback in this circuit has more internal windings?
John Kerley I don't know. I've never measured the output for this one at the flyback. After it's gone through the multiplier then yes, this power supply produces more voltage than the cube power supply. I don't know how many windings are on the high voltage side of either flyback, so I can't guess based on that.It would be difficult to measure both in a way that they can be compared anyway. The cube's flyback has a built-in diode and I'd have to break it to bypass it. Whereas the flyback in this video doesn't have any built-in diode.
It sounds just fine, Rimstar. I don't know what this person is talking about!
I don't have much time and the availability of materials for the power supply. I am building the ionocraft in the other video. Can I just plug in an adapter with a power multiplier and use it on the ionocraft?
No, you need a high voltage. I don't know what the power multiplier is that you're referring to but you need to step up the voltage to around 25,000 volts (versus the 120 or 240 volts from the wall socket). You also need a relatively large amount of current, more than an electrostatic machine like a Van de Graaff generator or Wimshurst machine can supply. There is the idea of using a PC monitor like I do in my "How to Make PC/Computer Monitor into High Voltage Power Supply" video, but it's fairly dangerous so make sure you know what you're doing if you open one of those up.
So if I were to use the homemade negative Cockcroft-Walton voltage multiplier, it would still work the same way? And it would still work for an ionocraft?
Yes, it would work the same way. Provided the only difference was that the Cockcroft-Walton voltage multiplier was configured for negative instead of positive (i.e. it was still as powerful as the one in this video) then yes, it would still work for an ionocraft.
gr8 job merci beaucoup for sharing
The new school version uses FET's and diodes to do the switching and only one winding instead of two windings. The FET's dissipate less power so they run cooler and no high power resistors are needed
Hi there, thank you for sharing this video. I am a first timer in building such electrical power supply. However I will be needing it for a project. There is one question that I hope to seek for your clarification. For the 1mm and 0.5mm wires to wrap around the Tripler, must I use the exact same specification on wire diameter? Thank you.
I am planning to make this during summers, but have questions:
How can I ensure safety, since my dad is concerned?
How can I use the flyback transformer such as the one used by you? (since I'm in India)
Also the Voltage Tripler
Your dad is right to be concerned, this is a high voltage and most importantly, also a relatively high current power supply. You'll note that I take safety precautions, such as the long stick I use when demonstrating near the end of this video. But since I can't ensure anyone else's safety, I don't have any videos specifically about safety. I recommend using this with someone who knows how to use it safely or you do so at your own risk.
But that might not matter. The flyback transformer is one with no built-in diode. Those are very hard to find these days. It might be easier to find and use an old PC monitor like I do here ruclips.net/video/r32e0QGdm8U/видео.html Of course, that want also requires being concerned about safety.
For more about the flyback and the tripler, see my webpage here rimstar.org/equip/30kv_pwr_supply.htm
Scroll down to the Power Supplies section of this webpage to see all my power supplies, including more about the monitor
Ooops... Here's that power supplies links rimstar.org/science_electronics_projects/index.htm#PSUS
@@RimstarOrg Thanks for the reply
is this device basically a more powerful joule thief setup?
No, it's a very different circuit and works in a very different way. Also, the output of a joule thief is spikey voltage and current whereas the output of this power supply is DC, constant voltage and current.
@@RimstarOrg do you have a video explaining the circuit? I am trying to understand how the power flows through it
No, I don't. But it's a very common flyback transformer circuit that has a voltage multiplier/tripler added to the output of that circuit in order to convert the output to DC and increase the voltage. I used to have a link to a great page explaining the flyback circuit but it no longer exists. However, the flyback circuit is very common so you should be able to find an explanation out there somewhere.
I love how most of your tutorial revolve around using the cheapest, around the house items. I am surprised i haven't seen your projects until recently! I (time allowing) may make a few of these this coming summer! One question though, about this HV producer. The 30kv tripler/Cockcroft-walton Voltage multiplier. I tried looking such a device up, and i can't seem to find anything with those specifications. Could you possibly send me a link of a purchasable one that would suite this power supply?
If it does have to be on there,....would it matter if it was a 50V,4700uF? I just wondered because I have one of those.
Thank you for great tutorial sir. I just wonder how much current rated on the HV side? and Is it suitable to use in long term (about six hours)? Sorry for my bad english.
Thanks. I would guess the minimum current rating would be whatever the current rating is for the 2N3055 transistors you use. I say that because I once produced a strong enough spark to damage one of those transistors. I show fixing it in this video ruclips.net/video/Kb0WwsJgTMM/видео.html As for whether or not it's suitable for long term use, I've only ever run it for a few minutes at a time so I can't say for sure. But I think I've run it long enough that if anything was heating up, it would cause damage. However, my loads are usually around 25000 volts with moderate current (I would guess) when flying lifters.
@@RimstarOrg Thank you for your fast reply. I pretty sure that it is suitable to use in my work, so I will make it one sir.
I liked the way u explain project work. Thums up. Keep up this good work.
What are the different power supplying "energy converters" that can be used as a kind of reactor to get electricity?
The materials are not available in the place I live. But I really like your ionocraft and I want to make it. What should I do?
The only other option is to buy one. Make sure you get one that at least 26,000 volts and high current, around 1 milliamp to be sure it would work. It must also be direct current (DC) and not alternating current (AC). That means a tesla coil will not work. One place to buy them is amazing1.com. Note that these are relatively high power high voltage power supplies and you must know what you're doing to be safe.
Hi. THX for sharing. Can one use this gadget to heat up very cold water in winter for bathing?
You're welcome. I think you forgot the smiley. :)
RimstarOrg Hi: Smiley. I am not able to find the graphic smiley from my screen. I am not an IT person.
So, it's kind of like a very up-scaled joule thief with a transformer and a multiplier?
EPaR - Aidan Gieg No, it's quite different. The output of a joule thief is mostly zero with periodic spikes of power. The output of this one is flat DC, so constant output. And don't be misled by the fact that both joule thief and this power supply have transistors. The transistors do very different things in the two circuits.
Oh, ok.
RimstarOrg I beg to dis agree, your circuit is a jewel thief on steroids, your transistors are on 50% of the time, jewel thief is more like 20% tops, mostly less that 20%. your circuit is more efficient. I always called a joule thief a jewel thief.
N8ZU Oh wow! You're right. That joule thief just keeps following me everywhere I go. :) It's much clearer when you look at the single transistor version of this circuit. Aidan Gieg, I also misread your question and was thinking of the output from the multiplier - that output is flat DC. The output from the transistor/flyback portion of the circuit is as N8ZU said.
hey there RimstarOrg ... thats quite a nice power supply setup you built ! i like the vintage flyback as well works very well for your ion lifter .. had a question for you about your lifter .. is there some other lightweight materials i could use instead of the balsa wood .. i want to build one for one of my next projects but most of the model stores here in Germany are for trains only .. thanks for the video cheers mate !
Hi, hope you have a very good Christmas and New Year. I want to ask two questions. Do I need I the cap on the end of the flyback? I mean whether I can cut the cap and connect the flyback's wire with the tripler's wire by soldering them together. And do you have any suggestions where can I get the metal balls because I try to look for them even on the Internet, but I can't find. Thank you.
You don't need the cap. You can solder the flyback's wire with the tripler's wire. Try to use a big rounded blob of solder; avoid sharp points like the sharp ends of wires being exposed. Since this is the high voltage side of things, sharp ends can cause ionization to the surrounding air and reduce your maximum voltage. As for the balls, any smoothed edges metal object will do. Desk drawer handles, and door handles are usually rounded, you can cut off any sharp parts. They don't have to be perfect balls. I even have some 1/2 inch thick copper rod that I cut short pieces from and sand them so they're well rounded. Maybe even something in stores with things for the kitchen will do.
RimstarOrg Thank you. And Happy New Year.^^
I was using the exact same adapter for my flyback circuit which was pretty similar to yours, without the tripler, and with a better transistor. My arc was just as long as yours if not longer.. The adapter burnt out and caught fire.
lepayen The transistor can definitely make a difference. Keep in mind that I wasn't trying for a longest arc. I avoid that sort of thing because it can damage the power supply. But not going with a tripler also makes for a different animal. If your flyback doesn't have a built-in diode, like mine doesn't, and you don't have a tripler then you're putting out high voltage AC instead of DC and you can draw out a nice long arc. If your flyback has a built-in diode and no tripler then you're putting out DC but at a lower voltage and higher current, which in my experience with my cube power supply can also draw out a nice long arc (see my cube power supply here ruclips.net/video/-KFhBVfpfDw/видео.html).The power supply in this video that we're commenting is intended as a workhorse - for doing things like ion propulsion, powering lifters and so on.
I wasn't thinking about the fact that your flyback is not rectified. That would require a voltage multiplier or marx generator to make it DC without a rectifying diode. I was thinking of buying a non rectified flyback and putting a full wave rectifier on it for a special experiment. . Granted I will have to buy some high voltage diodes as well to make the rectifier.
I have found that most of the time the transistor that's in the television with the flyback is the best one for that particular flyback, if you're using the coils already existing that is. Obviously making your own coils will affect how well the flyback works.
lepayen Funnily enough, the only time I took a flyback from a TV, the flyback was the only thing left in the TV for me to take! :D The transistor and everything else was gone when I found the TV beside the street. I don't know why they left just the flyback. Maybe the input coils were the reason the TV was no longer working. But I replaced those so it didn't matter to me.
That's possible. Perhaps they had no idea what it did. So many televisions and other electronics get tossed out around my city, I've been harvesting parts left, right and center. The best place to check is usually behind apartment buildings.
Hi, I was wondering if the high voltage frequencies would mess with sensitive electronics. I work on my projects on a work bench in my garage, and I'm afraid that the high frequencies may break the garage door opener.
Sir plz tell me Which is the negative and positive terminal of this HVPV that you used to power the Smoke Precipitator.....I had watched your video multiple times but I can't figure the negative and positive terminal out...
With the smoke precipitator, the aluminum foil cylinder is connected to the high voltage positive, and the wire mesh is connected to ground, which is the same as the high voltage power supply's ground, which I explained in the other comment. There is no high voltage negative, though you can get negative charge from it like I do in the smoke precipitator. That's because the high voltage positive attracts negative charge from the ground.
The plug coming from the wall socket that powers the lower voltage power supply has a ground wire. That's connected to the low voltage power supply's negative output, so that's also at ground potential. That goes to the high voltage power supply's negative input, so that's also at ground potential. And that's also connected to the flyback transformer's ground pin and the voltage multiplier's ground pin (see the circuit diagram). So all those points are electrically connected together and are at ground potential. As I said in the other comment, there isn't really any negative. It's really 0V, and the high voltage positive output is 30,000 volts away from that 0 volts.
I used pin 2, before also, but it doesn't work now. I can't find anything wrong with it either. Thank you for all your help.
Is it possible to control the voltage that is being supplied by the device? For example, if I needed 20kV, would I be able to change the amount of voltage outputted?
Yes, that's controlled by controlling the input DC voltage. I feed it anywhere from 0 to 24 VDC. Starting at 8:21, you see me connecting up a low voltage DC power supply which can output from 0 to 24 VDC. That low voltage power supply takes in AC voltage and outputs voltage to the high voltage power supply. To control that DC output, I control the AC input. And that's done using the red thing called a VARIAC. So the path is: AC wall socket > VARIAC (0 - 120 VAC output) > low voltage power supply (0 - 24 VDC output) > high voltage power supply (0 - 30 kVDC output, sort of, if I recall correctly it's something more like 0V and then 10kVDC - 30 kVDC). Of course, your DC input source to the high voltage power supply might be different. See my webpages about these power supply for clearer pictures: rimstar.org/equip/24v_pwr_supply.htm and rimstar.org/equip/30kv_pwr_supply.htm
Thanks. Funny, I've seen videos of lifters catching fire but despite plenty of arcing, mine never have. A good thing, I guess.
Cool! Let us know how it goes!
Do you generally think of these yourself?
Thanks Tom! Ditto!
The parts store I went to did not have mounting kits for the transistors, are the collectors only on the securing plates? And would I be able to skip that by soldering a wire onto the posts, or is it something I actualy need?
The mounting kit is optional. It does make it easier to mount onto the heat sink without having an electrical connection to the heat sink. The collector is the case of the transistor so often you can just put the wire between the case and the nuts and bolts that you use to hold the case in place.
alright thank you
Excellent video, I need to make something like this for my fusor.
Thanks for this video. great work. please help me out. what happen if hv output wire shorted with ground? if its damage the circuit then what will be the solution of short circuit protection. thanks in advance
A short circuit would damage one of the transistors due to the high current, similar to too strong of a spark, as I found and fixed in this video ruclips.net/video/Kb0WwsJgTMM/видео.html. Hopefully it would damage the transistor before getting to damage the flyback transformer.
There are things you can add around the transistor to help with too much current, which I talk about in the section called "Transistor protection - capacitors and diodes" on my webpage here rimstar.org/equip/30kv_pwr_supply.htm. But then it might just damage something else instead.
But for a short circuit, ideally there would be a fuse or breaker somewhere, probably at the input. I just don't know what value to put. The only way I can think you could check is to try out your power supply while monitoring the input current under normal usage and then put in a fuse that's a little higher than that current.
It might be a dumb question but I want to ask why did you connect the earth to the ground of the laptop adapter? Thank you for the videos :)
It's a good question. If you look at the complete circuit, you'll see that that alligator clip I used to connect the ground to the laptop adaptor's negative is electrically connected all the way into the high voltage power supply to the voltage multiplier.
The purpose is really to make the positive high voltage be relative to ground. For example, the high voltage output for the high voltage power supply tops out at 30kV, but 30kV relative to what? It has to be relative to something. A safe thing to do is to make it 30kV relative to whatever potential the objects and people in the room are at. So by grounding the negative of the high voltage power supply, the 30kV is 30kV away from whatever everything else in the room is at.
The alternative is to have the 30kV be floating, relative to nothing in particular, in which case it would be any voltage relative to the surroundings, possibly a dangerous amount or possibly a useless amount.
Sir can you plz tell me what is need for grounding the negative terminal????? I don't know why you did this???
Which negative terminal are you referring to? Overall, grounding is used for this power supply so that we have something for the 30 kV to be relative to. Voltage is always relative to something. So this power supply can put out 30,000 volts relative to whatever ground we use.
you should spend more time making assembly videos your good at it. thank you I am eager to build a bug zapper as well i would like to see the "iano craft" things like that need to be shown to kids these are the things that stimulate constrructive thoughts I am sure
Do you use duty cycle limit or continuos power supply?
I don't know. :) I of course know what duty cycle means, and can guess what duty cycle limit means, but this is the first I've heard of those terms. What's a continuous power supply?
one more thing: I tried simulating the circuit in Proteus and even in PSpice but I did not find a representation for the flyback transformer and the NTE521 tripler. I would like you to please tell me how you drew the circuit, possibly what model did you use to represent the flyback transformer or the software you used. Thanks
+MAXWELL AMOAH I didn't use any software or do any modelling. This is a very old and common circuit. I think I originally got it from here many years ago jnaudin.free.fr/html/lifterb.htm but you can find that circuit all over the web.
Thank you for your previous reply on the wire size. I had purchased a flyback transformer which is a China made BSC25-4803. I had looked up the data pin details and found out that pins are label as C-B+-NC-AFC-GRND-H/T-ABL-TP. Which mean in order to ground my flyback, I should solder the pin that belongs to GRND to the capacitor's negative? Please do correct me if I am wrong.Meanwhile, I notice that my Tripler (BG2097-642-306) has a black suction cup while the one that you are using doesn't. That shall be the part connecting to a CRT as HV output right? Shall I cut off the suction cup and reveal the wire?
Yes, solder the pin for GRND to the capacitor's negative. On my flyback that was pin 2. And yes, the black suction cup on the tripler is the part connecting to a CRT as HV output. I don't remember if mine came with a suction cup attached or not. But yes, you'll need to cut off the suction cup to reveal the wire and make use of it.
Thank you very much. I will keep trying. Thank you for your clear instruction and assistance as well.
Meanwhile, it is impossible to obtain 220ohm 3W resistor in our country and I have bought 220ohm 5W resistor. Will the output be the same?
meow290
Yes, the output will be the same. The wattage indicates how much wattage is can dissipate before heating up and being damaged. So your 5W one can handle more.
Alright. Thank you again.
Hello. I have taken out a flyback transformer from an old TV.
How do i know if it is suitable for the job?
Most TV's flybacks will have a diode built in which means there'd be a lot of extra bulk to the flyback, like this
rimstar.org/science_electronics_projects/high_voltage_power_supply_w_flyback_transformer_builtin_diodes/flyback_builtin_diodes_blue_bkgd_cran.jpg.
A suitable one wouldn't have all that extra bulk. It would have a more visible coil and look something like this rimstar.org/equip/30kv_pwr_supply/flyback_transformer_with_just_coil_and_core_cr.jpg.
The problem with the one with the built in diode is that it can't power a tripler. A tripler wants AC and one with a built in diode puts out pulsed DC. The tripler is what raises the voltage from 20kV to 30kV in this circuit.
If you have one with a built in diode then you can try removing the diode but I'm not sure it's even possible. I looked online a short while ago and didn't see any good ways of doing it.
hello, i just built the unit with a modern day fly back as you used in the cube and tripler as you used in the video with the antique fly back that no-one can find. do you have a video that combines the modern day fly back and the tripler? The circuit i have does not solder any wires to any pins or utilize the focus wire or screen wire . This is my 1st project and I am certain I am only 1connection away from success. The antique flyback had a black wire from pin 2 to the negative post of the capacitor what do I do instead since I have a modern day flyback?
I'm pretty sure a flyback with a built in diode, as in the cube, won't work with a tripler. A tripler needs AC as input whereas a flyback with a built in diode produces pulsed DC. I've never tried bypassing or removing a diode from a flyback that has one and I was recently asked about it and it looks like it might not be possible for some flybacks as it may be encased in epoxy, though I wouldn't rule out the possibility. But you can still use what you have, just without the tripler. You will have a lower voltage output like the cube does, though you won't be able to fly a lifter is that's what you were after. Regarding the pin, see the video about making the cube where I show one way to find the pin ruclips.net/video/-KFhBVfpfDw/видео.html.
Thank you for the timely reply. It is the lifter I am interested in flying and I thought I saw you fly it with the cube. I have enough parts to build both however and I am looking at an( admiral 79c77-5 flyback transformer) on ebay. It looks close to your old one but, like I said I have a lot to learn but I am open to any suggestions as to which one to purchase to make the job easier and I am extremely grateful for all that you are doing to enlighten and advance us all. I am using a 0-30 volt 5 amp variable Dc power supply to power my high voltage power supply and I have even tried using it to power a step up power supply that uses 6-12 volt input and puts out 500k, no success yet but I am in it for the long haul, Thanks again, Take care, Rob
So I purchased the above mentioned( admiral 79c77-5 flyback transformer) I installed it as shown and looked for which pin was showing coronal discharge; none were, nothing seems to work. Q2 transformer is not getting hot like Q1so I took it apart tested forward bias and reverse(its good). Did i fry the tripler by feeding it with pulsed DC instead of AC on the first try? I checked continuity from all wires on the tripler and none of them register. What next? Anyone?
As far as I understand, no matter what kind of electricity you feed to a transformator ( AC or pulsed DC), you will always get AC output. Would you help me to understand how do you get DC out of a flyback transformator? :)
To turn AC into DC you need at least one diode (also called a rectifier). Diodes allow electrical current to pass through them one direction only, provided you have the right diode for the amount of voltage and current you're using. In the power supply in this video the multiplier, that comes just after the transformer in the circuit, contains diodes and does the conversion from AC to DC. Search for diodes, rectifiers, full wave bridge rectifiers, ...
so the tripler I got looks very similar to yours, and is also made by NTE however mine says on the HV out it puts out 40KV would the resistors, capacitors, and transistors in your video still work, or would I need to get ones that can handle the extra 10kv?
It should still work with the same resistors, capacitors and transistors.
Nice, thank you so much!
Thanks. Sounds like an interesting project. I'll check out the vids on your channel.
Thank you for such a great video. I'm currently making my own HV supply based on your instructions. I have one question before I start: Is it necessary to have the metal balls? I assume these are purely optional in order to create sparks from a ground rod.
With high voltage, losses can occur where you have sharp points in your wiring. Those sharp points ionize the surrounding air, leaking charge into the air, decreasing the available current and voltage. So I try to make connections with a few sharp points as possible. Having rounded metal balls as part of that connection helps to reduce the sharpness of the connection.
Thanks for the information
No, you don't need those exact wire diameters. Have fun building it.
Found it! Great work!
Thanks! And oops, I just replied to your other comment. I guess this is a case for 'read all comments before replying'!
RimstarOrg you sir, are amazing! Keep it up!
Great video, I already make this kind of power supply, but using MOSFET based on ZVS driver schematic that I search on the internet, but I have a question, about the power supply you make that supply 24 DC, you said it was home made right ?, and if it so, can it be adjusted ? and I am also wonder if you can make a video how to make one ?, or can you tell me the components that is required to make one of those power supply.
The details for the 24 VDC power supply are on my website here rimstar.org/equip/24v_pwr_supply.htm. I control the voltage using a VARIAC, as you can see on the webpage (that's the big red thing I manipulate in the videos), but I don't have any control over the current.
Oh, it has a 1 amp fuse on the input side when getting input from the 120 V household AC. That means the maximum current on the 24 VDC output is around 5 amps (120/24 x 1 = 5).
Well thank you for replying my comment, I really appreciate that. So you control the voltage using a VARIAC, a variable transformer, but i thought there are some circuits inside your home made power suppy in wich control the output that is DCV, instead of controling the input ACV to the transformer. In my country a VARIAC is very exspensive and also not much are available that is rated for 220 VAC , mostly it rated for 110 - 120 VAC, because of this I want to ask your suggestion for the circuit that is capable to control the DC output voltage with a fixed current of maximum 5 A..?
I'm sorry, but off hand I don't have any circuits for controlling the voltage on the DC side and none for controlling the current at all.
I see.., well its ok then, thank you so much for your time I really appreciated that and I am looking forward for your new video about amazing projects inhe future, thank you so much...
In an inverter does the voltage get high and the current is low so that the power is same
That's what happens with a transformer. An inverter takes DC and converts it to AC. The AC voltage can be higher or lower than the DC, it just depends on the inverter. For example, inverters used in solar power systems could convert the DC from a 24 V battery bank to 120 V AC or it could convert the DC from a 200 V battery bank to 120 V AC (for example). The power should be the same but with losses due to inefficiencies.
RimstarOrg thanks bro so voltage depends upon the speed the electrons travel and current is the amt of charge it take
Voltage is the energy per electron and the current is the amount of charge passing a point in the wire per unit of time.
RimstarOrg so that's y in an inverter the voltage is high as the electrons have high energy but the current is low due to less amount of electrons
I'm not sure what that has to do with an inverter but the rest of what you said is correct.
I have another question that whether the black wire is the 24 gauge or not. Thank you.
It's 18 gauge (AWG).
RimstarOrg
Therefore, there are 3 kinds of wires for this right? The red one is 24 gauge, the white one is 18 and the black one is 18 too, right? I mean whether I need a 18 gauge of red wire?
Hoai Thu
I'm pretty sure they'll all 18.
RimstarOrg So just except the red one in the coil is 24, right?
Hoai Thu
I just opened it up to doublecheck and the black is 18, the red and white are both 24. But 18 would work for all of them if that's all you have.
i like ionic craft you made