I swap the wheelsets on my hardtail. 2.4" for mountain and 35c for road/gravel. I also swap petals, flats for mountain and clipless for all the smoother riding.
gravel grinders r getting more popular in my area..its seldom all gravel and is usually a mix of gravel, road and atv trail.. i use a hardtail mtb with 42 c tire upfront..the old addage is "if u want to enjoy a gravel bike race use a hardtail and if u want to win a gravel race use a gravel bike"
The comparison between the two could be surprising. I recently went on a gravel ride with my brother on his fatbike and me on my gravel bike. I thought I would smoke him but the amount of braking I had to do on washed out rocky sections and carefully choosing my line through rougher stuff really evened it out. He just bombed everything. Obviously it wouldn't be like this all the time but for some conditions the XC bike could be just as fast!
That is exactly why a new category of bikes is emerging: enter monstercross! I've built from a scratch my own crossover bike, based on a CAAD3 XC frame from 1990s. And a dirt drop bar. Medium sized (by today's standards that is) tyres. Best of both worlds!! Greetigs from Norway, a true gravel heaven.
Zbigniew Andruszkiewicz lovely country, great people, I trained in NATO excercises as a Marine back in 84, we had huge snowball fights with local kids as we travelled through narvik, tromso,Oslo. Fond memories. I wish to return to explore again someday. Regards.
Love my hardtail. Steel frame, 3x9 gearing, and 26" wheels with Maxxis Crossmark tires. The only use I can see for the drop bars would be if I am in a bad head wind and it would help to be more arrow. Hard tail is still the best do it all kind of bicycle for me.
Hi Clint. This is a very interesting comparison. I have a couple of friends who have Specialized Epic Hardtails set up for gravel riding with 38 tooth chainrings, carbon everything and gravel tires. They even use them for road rides because they feel safer. They go out a few times a week following a group of road riders and aren't left behind... I guess its like bringing a sports SUV to a track day, but it can be done!
My family bought me a new Trek X-Caliber 9 hardtail 29" for a Christmas/retirement gift to cycle my butt off and be healthy, which I'm gladly doing. We kept it stock except for a more comfortable saddle and swapping out the knobby tires for Schwalbe Big Apple 29x2.35 "most surfaces" tires. So far, great. The bike has been a dream on roads/paved trails, hard-packed sand/clay/shell shoreside trails, quarry dust/cinder/gravely woodsy trails, hard soil/grass, etc. I'm a big guy, the geometry works well for me, as does the stepover height for my less-flexible hips. The only thing is, as my range increases, I'm thinking of swapping out the stock grips for something like the Ergon GP4 bar end types due to hand numbness. I hadn't ridden for 30+ yrs, and in those days, I rode a Fuji Touring Series IV on mostly roads with some off-road. The Trek gearing isn't as high or as low as the Fuji and I accept that (I did all the calcs), but it is OK for this time of my life and riding goals. Of course, now that it's spring, Trek has a new gravel-specific bike. But I think I'm doing OK with the one I have.
So I just got back from a group ride on a new-to-me trail. 2 loops on a 5mi reservoir perimeter trail for 10+ mi. I was expecting nice, hard-packed quarry dust. We got packed dirt and gravel with a number of loose soil areas (youtube vids of the quarry dust status are a couple of years old). The Schwalbe tires did fine, although they had a harder time in the rutted looser areas. The also turned away the larger gravel nicely, although on a few more rapid descents, I felt the wheels try to jig away as they hit the stones (I'm not really a mountain biker as you can figure). All OK, and I stand by my earlier comments above.
I agree. I’m 49 and trying to trim the dad bod. I recently got a Marlin 7 which is a lower end Trek hardtail with a 3x9 groupset. It’s touted as a “commuter” or “bikepacking” platform and I’ve ridden on roads, loose gravel, packed gravel and singletrack. It actually did the worst on the ST because of chain slap (blame the groupset) and poor grip (blame the stock XR2s.) Otherwise I like the wide bars for better maneuvering and stability at lower speeds. I agree that the gearing isn’t going to set any speed records but I’ve gotten it up to 15 mph on long level stretches and ridden up to 50 miles on a single ride with negligible back or knee pain. Fit and geometry trump gearing IMO; being comfortable makes you want to ride more. Isn’t that the point?
I have a cross bike and it's the best bike I have ever bought, it can do it all. I can run road/gravel tryes for commuting, aggressive tyres for off road use, and I can stick some 650B's with fatter tyres for riding with a local MTB group (and I can keep up with them easily across technical terrain.)
Added a third chainring to the front of my old Specialized Hardrock and hybrid tires. Knobs on the sides, smooth center tread. Best of both worlds. Faster with the higher gearing of the added chainring, smoother on the road, grip in turns off-road on shale or gravel.
Very interested to see what you think. There are some big gravel races regularly won on ht and fs mtbs such as hillybilly roubiax. Traction, position, and the compliance of the bigger tires can often offset minor rolling resistance differences.
Interesting comparison. The geo of a XC hardtail (especially an older model) is the same as a newer gravel frame. I do think you could buy a old XC frame put some gravel(road disc) components and you can actually use the XC wheels. The rims are the same inner width on most, so all you need is gravel tires. I personally have i26 Velocity Blunt SS rims with Panaracer 700x35 gravel kings on back and Kenda flint ridge 700x40 on front of my XC hardtail
I have a Specialized Rock Hopper with a 3-by front chain ring set up. Putting some 38 X 700 Trigger Pro Tubeless style tires on it greatly increased my distance and speed (versus a 2.2 inch knobby set), and I put a Jones Loop H-Bar on it as well. I did that for greater hand positioning and love it. However, I now ride a Specialized AWOL gravel/adventure bike (drop bars), and in windier conditions (I live in Kansas) the AWOL foes out the door far more often than the other bike because of the drop bars. A rigid frame is bumpier, and having a front shock is great for damping some of the shock, but I think the AWOL is better at the stuff I ride. It's a bit lighter in weight, too. Even though the AWOL is a steel frame. That's my take on this. Others will have different ways of thinking about it. Thanks for your comparison videos. I decided to go with the AWOL after one of your previous videos about gravel bikes.
Before I became a roadie I lived in a place where my one hour ride included pavement. Dirt road and single track. My hardtail with the right tire was great for that ride.
I have both...my go to is the gravel shod with 40c Maxxis Ramblers. If the the descents are very technical the hard tail for sure. The gravel’s manoeuvrability and extra hand positions particularly when climbing clinch it for me. It’s simply more fun.
the higher rolling resistance comes from the rougher tread pattern and not from the tyre width itself. But there are also very fast MTB tires with very low rolling resistance, which are completely unsuitable for really rough or wet terrain. Otherwise, wider tyres are slightly less aerodynamic.
I have both. For non-technical riding I'd take the gravel bike over the MTB every time. To me it's just a more comfortable riding position, especially for longer rides.
Missing a hand position on the hard tail. I slide bar ends inside the brake/shifter position on the bar, cover them with a hand grip, and do climbing in a position similar to a tt bike I find that easier than climbing with my hands on the grips. I am aware of the breathing arguement for the on the grips position, but haven't experienced such a problem. All my riding is on the dirt roads and ATV trails in the local National Forrest.
I would also recommend that instead of riding with lower PSI on the mtn bike, pump it up. I ride the trails with 25ish, but when I ride my neighborhood concrete paths with a few occasional grass sections, I will pump up my psi to 40lbs. it definitely helps.
That "You can get faster wheels" thing you said about the hardtail also applies to most gravel bikes, since nearly all of them can accomodate a set of road wheels with 23mm tyres if the rider wants to do a fast ride on tarmac.
Thanks. I just bought a 29er MTB for the versatility of doing MTB or gravel rides because I can afford 2 separate bikes at this point. I’m looking to by another wheel set at some point to get a lighter skinnier set for gravel.
Good video. A cyclocross bike (carbon Crux) is my road bike so I can use it for more road oriented rides. Limited on tire clearance, though. Built up a Nine EMD with a rigid fork from the parts box. 3x front so pretty good gearing. Really fun bike! I'll put some fast rolling mountain bike tires on it and ride the roads to the trail for a lap and back by roads. On a 'road' ride I throw some Hurricanes on the EMD and I can cut through the park, ride greenways and some gravel roads on my route but still roll really well on pavement. I went back to running bar ends on mountain bikes after years without them and love them on the EMD.
Likewise here. I bought a CX instead of a road racer, because I wanted the freedom of going off road when I felt like it. I have 32 mm road tyres (GP 4 Seasons), which, although not good in mud, can cope easily with most gravel trails. As for gearing, I use a compact with an 11-30, to get over the 20+% hills in my area. I find I can keep up with most roadies (despite being 56).
I use a hardtail, with slimmer gravel tires, and a 2x12 system. I will eventually switch out the front shocks and upgrade to solid fork. I'm not so flexible so I use flat bar instead of drop bar.
Interesting comparison. As for the hands position on a hardtail, I would recommend to try the innerbarends from SQlab - great choice for anyone, who is using a hardtail often on tarmac and gravel roads.
I feel like the point on the different chainrings (1x11vs2x9) is kind of a mute point as that can be exchanged to suit the riders preference. I think the biggest differences are geometry, weight, and tires. The suspension fork can be locked out and opened when needed. It would be interesting to see a direct comparison with equal parts (other than tires and suspension fork).
The Eagle 1 x 12 groupset has a bigger range (520%) than any 2x10 or 2x11 drivetrain I'm aware of. The 1 x 11 SRAM stuff has a bigger range (420% I think) than most 2 chainring setups. The problem is there are huge gaps between gears, which often means you want to be between two of the available gears on long climbs for example. For XC bikes most of the climbs tend to be short, so this isn't an issue, but it knocks SRAM completely out of contention for my hardtail because I ride to the trails on a mix of road and gravel, ride the rough technical trails I need my hardtail for and ride home, all on the one bike. I run a 3 x 10 with a 530% range and a lot more unique gear ratios with better chainline than the SRAM setup. For some insane reason though Shimano keeps making the gear range on all their groupsets smaller with new iterations rather than making use of the main advantage they have over SRAM. I use the big ring from the touring edition of Shimano XT to get a 44T big ring instead of the 40 they tend to ship with these days. Even if I swapped to 29" wheels from the 27.5s I'm running, I'd still need a 42T up there to get a decent top gear.
I have a Trek ProCaliber 9.8 which lighter than my gravel bike. Haven't spent that much time on the gravel bike yet, but that hardtail 29er provides the most fun on two wheels.
Some gravel bikes now have suspension. I much prefer my gravel bike which has front suspension because it is faster on payment and gravel roads than a mountain bike. They can also be ridden fast on single track. The limitation I find occurs when a full suspension bike is probably better for the terrain. But then one isn't really looking for a hardtail in these conditions either.
If its dry, SCHWALBE G-BIG ONE 29 x 2.35 all the way. More than enough traction in the dry, ultra fast on road and gravel, HUGE volume and light too. This tyre will blow all others away in terms of rolling resistance. If you know your ride is going to be dry check them out.
I use a HT with skinnier tires in gravel events .I weigh a 100 kg so it might be something to think about .Those thin gravel tires are not that strong if you do hit a a hole or rock .When riding rolling hills i am much faster though the dip and can keep momentum much better than a gravel bike .Cornering is faster and safer with suspension and wider tires .Putting drop bars on my HT will sort out the variable hand position problem and going 1 x 12 will sort out the gear range .With the correct tire choice and pressures i can keep up with the gravel bikes on tar.Not convinced getting a gravel bike is my answer
Great comparison. I've got my first ever gravel event coming up next month and I'm using a fat bike. Would love to be doing it on that hardtail though!
I have a Trek 920, which I guess is technically a rigid drop bar 29er with a slightly lower front end. I have 2" tires on it so I can go anywhere a standard hardtail can go. Drop bars definitely help to make it a long distance machine. My Trek Stache can take on much more technical terrain but after 30 or 40 miles on the trail I'm really wishing for some bar ends. My Domane is a bit faster on the road but the 920 is soo much more stable and confidence inspiring on dirt.
I tried to use my hardtail as a gravel grinder. I put a 48 big ring up front (I run a triple). It was not big enough. I was routinely dropped by the gravel bikes/road bikes at the gravel events I did. You simply can't keep up with someone who has a 52 or 54 up front. Thus I got a gravel bike.
There is not 54 stop lying. There is only 50, 52 and max 53 on any road or gravel/cyclocross bike. And yeah, MTBs will never hold a candel to even the heaviest of roadies and gravel bikes, so stick to where you belong, jumping dirt.
It isn't the chainring that is slowing you down. Most non-pro riders don't maintain 25mph on gravel. A 36T front ring and an 11 back will get you ~25mph at 100rpm (cadence). The largest disadvantage is the resistance of larger tires and the upright body position.
Gotta admit, I couldn't give up on the versatility of a full mountain bike, then again I've never ridden a gravel bike so maybe it's something that I need to give a go.
Great kick off video. I would think the limitation of gearing would be a real issue, especially in a group ride where the group moves even faster than solo by a fair amount.
I've found that having drop bars make a big difference in stiff headwinds. Sure you can move your hands inwards on flatbars but I've found that position gets uncomfortable fast and still isn't as aero as a pair of drops.
On my hardtail in my profile pic , I don’t like the big jumps between cassette gears , I don’t have the intermediate gears like my road bike . Too easy spin or too hard in the high end and never the speed I would have on my road bike. I wonder if a sram road cassette would work with my gx rear long derailleur?
Nice!!! I put a rigid steel fork on my hardtail a couple years ago. Ended up getting a hardcore hardtail that is downright amazing on our trails. So my XC hardtail was just sitting there. My plan was to make it a single speed mtb. But I've decided to turn it into a commuter/gravel bike. I'm going to get a gravel wheelset with some Maxxis Ramblers eventually. But as of right now it has a 42 tooth chainring (that I had to order from Lithuania). XT 1x10. Cut the old bars to 660mm. And a 2.2 Icon on the front with a Maxxis Grifter 2.0 on the back. It's fast! and it will only get faster.
I have a full sus mtb (a Giant Trance 2 - you know the bike very well), a steel single speed cross bike that takes 42mm tires (which I use to shred the easy single track around me) and a road bike. The SS gravel bike is much, much faster on the easy single track in my area than my full-sus mtb even when locked out, and I can still do some moderate group rides on it. If I had to get rid of one, it would be the Trance 2, which I would trade for an aggressive rigid gravel bike.
While I know that you have limited time and funds, but what about a Salsa Cutthroat? It sits directly between the gravel bike and hard tail MTB. Plenty of hand positions, lower position, but big tires. Plus the ability to add front suspension if you want. Personally I'm just looking for a road bike that doesn't beat me up on the rough-assed roads around here. I have plenty of gravel, but it's a way out. The closest, non-asphalt is a lot of two track-everything from hard clay to sugar sand. 90% of my riding is asphalt and most of that is not really road bike friendly. Looking for something beefier.
The Cutthroat Looks like one of the best do it all machines I’ve seen. Similar to the Open Up. From what you described it sounds like a great choice. Salsa bikes are very unique for sure!
Hello from the Basque Country Mr. Gibbs. Really useful videos. I wonder if you could give me your opinion based on your experience and common sense. Flat bar gravel bike? Here "fire roads" are constantly uphill and downhill and cornering all the time. On top of that they are full of "holes" and small stones. So, specially downhill, being able to maneuver instantly is important. I have a 26er hardtail with vbrakes I'm converting into a 28er with disk brakes but I haven't decided on the handlebar yet.
I love a flat bar road bike for commuting. They are very agile and very fun to maneuver. If you're in situations where you're just doing long straight rides like you encounter in gravel and road, then you're going to want the multiple hand positions of a curved bar. But it sounds like in your situation the flat bar road bike would work well.
The thing is, nowadays you can find dedicated bikes for all niches of cycling. Because these bikes are purpose built for optimal performance in each specific riding discipling, in a dedicated bike vs a non dedicated bike race, the dedicated one will always win. For me, I ride a hardtail 29er mtb on xc singletrack, and only use the gravel roads to get to the actual trail, so a gravel bike would be just as useless to me as a full suspension mid travel bike. That being said, if you have a wide choice of trails and riding disciplines available to you, you should probably own more than one bike, or not complain about sub optimal performance in various riding disciplines.
I recently bought a talon 3 29er 2018 model. Its my first hardtail. Coming from a hybrid (giant anyroad), I'm loving the freedom the hardtail gives me (jumps, drops you name it). It is quite a bit heavier and its components are all entry level so there is room for an upgrade. I don't use it for very technical terrain, but I do have steep climbs and broken roads in my vicinity. Any advice for shaving a few pounds off my bike (specific components) ? I have a couple of hundred dollars for now. (Current components: SR Suntour XCT HLO 100mm-travel fork with hydraulic lockout, Shimano 3x8-speed drivetrain, Giant double-wall rims with Maxxis Icon tires)
Clint, do you have the ability (through your lbs) to compare different drop bar shifter/brake levers? I'm curious which levers offer the most control and comfort while riding on the hoods during a gravel ride or touring. Always enjoy hearing your perspective.
Shimano road levers have a more compact feel whereas SRAM gives you a better surface to rest your hands. That being said it's not a significant difference to where I would prefer one over the other in terms of comfort
What about comparing both bikes on same tire? There 29x2.25 version of G-One Allround. May be it is possible to have comfortable MTB gravel bike with dedicated gravel tire?
Hi Clint, Would have to disagree with some points.... For mixed terrain if you have a gravel bike with bigger tire clearance than your bike I think the gravel bike is going to be just as versatile. Adventure bikes also have suspension fork options as you know. With big tires and that fork there is really not a lot of difference. Plus you get all the hand positions and more aero than you could get on a hardtail.
I guess it all depends on your goals. If hitting single-track aggressively is part of your ride then a mountain bike would be a better choice. You can only do so much with drop bars on rough singletrack descents.
I have to say for street riding in urban environments, I prefer an MTB bike. Often, have to find a way from the street to the sidewalk due to insane car drivers who are text, speeding and don't see bikers till they're right on top of them. MTBs are easier to manage in those instances and deal better with the curbs, change of terrain, grass, etc. If I had miles and miles of unpaved paths with no cars, I might feel differently. But I think this is a relevant comparison. Will be interesting to see the time trial numbers for each compared.
Just like you said, I use my hardtail around my local trail for almost every surface, from singletrack to fire road to pavement etc. would like to invest in a gravel bike but I feel like you’re kind of limited and can only pull that out certain occasions, great video and content overall!
I have a 2018 camber base but I have upgraded tire t 2.6 on front and 2.5 on back. I can upgrade the fork,dropper and oval chainring or I can trade my bike in with 1000 for a 2016 giant trance sx with a 3 years extended warranty left
The mtb can do gravel, slower, but can do it, a gravel bike can’t really do some trails You can improve a mtb for gravel but if you improve a gravel bike for mtb at the end you got a mtb bike
yeah it beats the purpose of having a gravel bike just to end up trying to make it an mtb better own an mtb its much cheaper than gravel bikes but if you like best of both worlds and little bit faster gravel bike is a pretty good choice
Lone Cyclist where a mtb is lost in on road that’s where a gravel can be used. That’s for me the key of a gravel to combine road sections with light trail sections. For a full mtb experience a gravel is not my cup of tea
Ex bmx racer and mtn biker trying to get something to enjoy living by the beach (recently moved) any recommendations for something budget friendly max 1500$ A hard tail seems so familiar but idk if it’s good for rippin along the coast 🤦🏻♂️ maybe a more comfortable not raced out road bike?
I think you're heading in the right direction. I would look at hard tails from the major brands to get the best value. Those are giant, specialized and trek.
Clint Gibbs right on thanks, anything to really avoid these days? I’m a little out of the game last bikes were custom haven’t bought a complete in a long time.
@@ChristiannTyler if you're going hardtail I would avoid 27.5 and stick with 29. Most likely you do not want a plus bike, which is fatter tires. The only way I would recommend one is if you ride on a lot of sand or just need a ton of stability
Clint Gibbs I actually thought the 27.5 seemed cool since I’m only 5’8 but as I’ve said it’s all new to me and I don’t even know what kind of trails I’ll be able to get into out here. I like some of what trek has as well as Kona
If you can get your body in similar aerodynamic position as on gravel bike then sure. I believe it will matter more than weight. Also good MTB tires will roll faster than gravel tires on rougher surfaces. Rolling resistance will favor gravel bikes only on tarmac or very good, hardened gravel roads.
Clint, I dare to contradict a lot of your statements. 1.) For more hand positions on an MTB you can get some inner bar-end (SQ-Lab makes them) and they are a craze in Europe at the moment. You get almost the same aero position as on a road bike. VERY comfortable! 2.) The wider tire has LOWER rolling resistance than a narrower tire. Put the Schwalbe G-One on the MTB and you get the same resistance. Take a bigger Schwalbe LiteSkin Pacestar Tubeless and you beat the best road race tire in rolling resistance ( www.bicyclerollingresistance.com ). It's the tire that causes rolling resistance, not the bike. 3.) The single chainring in the front is a US fade only. They are NOT popular in Europe where 2 chainrings are predominant. So spinning out at higher speed is a non-issue. 4.) A carbon HT MTB is kind of the same weight like a carbon gravel bike. Actually the frames and components are almost the same, except the front fork. 5.) As new gravel bikes come with a front fork now, the difference between both bikes is minimal. 6.) So the only real difference is the aero position, and that's where MTBs with drop-bars come in.
Paco Valladolid Garcia you could, but inner bar ends are just bar ends between brake lever and gear lever and are cheap. I use Ritcheys and I am mostly in the aero position like on a Road bike.
How would a MTB ride with drop bars? On smooth flat roud on my MTB, I often put my hands in drop bar hood position. Some ingenious person should create a transforming straight bar to drop bar. I'll buy that!
That's what is referred to as a monster cross bike, which is essentially a mountain bike with drop bars and Road shifters. They're not very common but they're very cool bikes.
Hardtail all the way if you are gona ride real mountain trails, yes in pavement you are slower but if you put a faster rear tire on the back and go high in pressure 50psi rear and front you let air out when you get to they mountain, lock the fork, also i have a 3x9 set up 22-32-44 in front,this set up is perfect for a do it all hardtail because whit the 44 chainring you can do a decent speed on pavement and you have all the gears for mountain trails.
Hi Clint, I have the exact same gravel bike as you, and I have been having a nightmarish time keeping my gears indexed. I've taken it to my LBS like 5 or six times noww and still can't seem to get the limit adjesters right. Did you have a similar experience with yours or do you have any advice?
Bike companies are constantly creating new avenues of selling and trying to get 1 bike owners to buy a different type of bike for 'similar' use so I will keep my hooked up 20.4 pound 2016 Focus Raven max SL for trails, etc. If championship riders can win races with it I am sure its more than needed for the general public
I have a Trek Remedy 8 and I’m considering a Gravel bike as a road/commuter/fitness bike, do you think it’s the best option vs road bike or commuter bike?
Mike Rotchburns Check out the 2015 and 2016 hillybilly roubiax. Cole oberman won on a spesh sworks fs mtb. There are some profiles of his bike out there. He has the current course record on it.
Buy the mountain bike. You can ride gravel on it, but knowing you can also ride the mountain bike trails means you'll never ever have to ride gravel ever again.
my gravel bike can take a 2.0-2.1 650 b and weight is about 201bs. Going from the road to the forest and to double track and some singletrack. This is a more diverse bike in my opinion. You can also put skinny road tires on it and use 700 wheels. Most mountain bikes cant take all of these combinations. Only thing it is not as good on is drops and jumps and rock gardens.
I actually have a flat bar on mine and it works great. I have ridden it on double / single track, gravel road riding events, and use it for gravel touring (KT Trail in MO) too. I built it up over time as parts have worn out / need replacing and is an old school steel frame. Solid bike that can be ridden in a lot of different areas.
The Gefster The part “drops,jumps and rock gardens” is the reason why I wouldn’t buy a gravel, but hey, is just my personal opinion, I know there’s people who enjoy a gravel
We have some 17-20% gravel fireroad climbs, doable on an XC hardtail, not so easy on a gravel bike with a 38 mm tire, or at least I have yet to figure out a technique where the rear wheel doesn’t spin out (even if sitting)...as an aside, climbing on a full suspension is even easier.
I believe you made it hard to choose from each model...I was kind of lean towards the Alloy because it was more afortable...then I watched your comparison video between both, stell & Alloy and then changed my mind for the steel...when do you plan a review of the RDO...?
I think a hard tail is way safer and I can go downhill way faster. Does your fork lock out very well? I have yet to find one that does. I used to have several Cannondale's with Headshocks which did lock out well, did but they were super unreliable. Anyway - Here's what I built up: ruclips.net/video/EO8k8orIzEw/видео.html Let me know what you think!
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
I swap the wheelsets on my hardtail.
2.4" for mountain and 35c for road/gravel.
I also swap petals, flats for mountain and clipless for all the smoother riding.
gravel grinders r getting more popular in my area..its seldom all gravel and is usually a mix of gravel, road and atv trail.. i use a hardtail mtb with 42 c tire upfront..the old addage is "if u want to enjoy a gravel bike race use a hardtail and if u want to win a gravel race use a gravel bike"
The comparison between the two could be surprising. I recently went on a gravel ride with my brother on his fatbike and me on my gravel bike. I thought I would smoke him but the amount of braking I had to do on washed out rocky sections and carefully choosing my line through rougher stuff really evened it out. He just bombed everything. Obviously it wouldn't be like this all the time but for some conditions the XC bike could be just as fast!
*faster in many conditions
That is exactly why a new category of bikes is emerging: enter monstercross!
I've built from a scratch my own crossover bike, based on a CAAD3 XC frame from 1990s. And a dirt drop bar. Medium sized (by today's standards that is) tyres. Best of both worlds!!
Greetigs from Norway, a true gravel heaven.
Zbigniew Andruszkiewicz lovely country, great people, I trained in NATO excercises as a Marine back in 84, we had huge snowball fights with local kids as we travelled through narvik, tromso,Oslo. Fond memories. I wish to return to explore again someday. Regards.
Me too, im already built my monster 10 days ago, surprisingly im love it.
Love my hardtail. Steel frame, 3x9 gearing, and 26" wheels with Maxxis Crossmark tires. The only use I can see for the drop bars would be if I am in a bad head wind and it would help to be more arrow. Hard tail is still the best do it all kind of bicycle for me.
Hi Clint. This is a very interesting comparison. I have a couple of friends who have Specialized Epic Hardtails set up for gravel riding with 38 tooth chainrings, carbon everything and gravel tires. They even use them for road rides because they feel safer. They go out a few times a week following a group of road riders and aren't left behind... I guess its like bringing a sports SUV to a track day, but it can be done!
Salvador Frieri 38x10 ratio is ok, but on fast road rides you’re gonna spin out. If mostly flats probably ok.
I use my hardtail mtb to everything ( commuting, trail riding, tours - longest is 300km)
300km on a MTB nigguh c'mon,sSlow down with the lying. I like lying too but only when I have to.
It was a 3 day trip.. so dont knwo why i think i'm lying.. but who cares.
You damn right it wasn't just a ride.I've done 600km too. But it doesn't count. The uninterrupted ride is what I mean.
Kóbor Tamás Me too🚴🏽👍
Soon as you jump off the bike and go to bed, it's not one ride again fool.
My family bought me a new Trek X-Caliber 9 hardtail 29" for a Christmas/retirement gift to cycle my butt off and be healthy, which I'm gladly doing. We kept it stock except for a more comfortable saddle and swapping out the knobby tires for Schwalbe Big Apple 29x2.35 "most surfaces" tires. So far, great. The bike has been a dream on roads/paved trails, hard-packed sand/clay/shell shoreside trails, quarry dust/cinder/gravely woodsy trails, hard soil/grass, etc. I'm a big guy, the geometry works well for me, as does the stepover height for my less-flexible hips.
The only thing is, as my range increases, I'm thinking of swapping out the stock grips for something like the Ergon GP4 bar end types due to hand numbness.
I hadn't ridden for 30+ yrs, and in those days, I rode a Fuji Touring Series IV on mostly roads with some off-road. The Trek gearing isn't as high or as low as the Fuji and I accept that (I did all the calcs), but it is OK for this time of my life and riding goals.
Of course, now that it's spring, Trek has a new gravel-specific bike. But I think I'm doing OK with the one I have.
So I just got back from a group ride on a new-to-me trail. 2 loops on a 5mi reservoir perimeter trail for 10+ mi. I was expecting nice, hard-packed quarry dust. We got packed dirt and gravel with a number of loose soil areas (youtube vids of the quarry dust status are a couple of years old). The Schwalbe tires did fine, although they had a harder time in the rutted looser areas. The also turned away the larger gravel nicely, although on a few more rapid descents, I felt the wheels try to jig away as they hit the stones (I'm not really a mountain biker as you can figure). All OK, and I stand by my earlier comments above.
I agree. I’m 49 and trying to trim the dad bod. I recently got a Marlin 7 which is a lower end Trek hardtail with a 3x9 groupset. It’s touted as a “commuter” or “bikepacking” platform and I’ve ridden on roads, loose gravel, packed gravel and singletrack. It actually did the worst on the ST because of chain slap (blame the groupset) and poor grip (blame the stock XR2s.) Otherwise I like the wide bars for better maneuvering and stability at lower speeds. I agree that the gearing isn’t going to set any speed records but I’ve gotten it up to 15 mph on long level stretches and ridden up to 50 miles on a single ride with negligible back or knee pain. Fit and geometry trump gearing IMO; being comfortable makes you want to ride more. Isn’t that the point?
I have a cross bike and it's the best bike I have ever bought, it can do it all.
I can run road/gravel tryes for commuting, aggressive tyres for off road use, and I can stick some 650B's with fatter tyres for riding with a local MTB group (and I can keep up with them easily across technical terrain.)
Added a third chainring to the front of my old Specialized Hardrock and hybrid tires. Knobs on the sides, smooth center tread. Best of both worlds. Faster with the higher gearing of the added chainring, smoother on the road, grip in turns off-road on shale or gravel.
Very interested to see what you think. There are some big gravel races regularly won on ht and fs mtbs such as hillybilly roubiax. Traction, position, and the compliance of the bigger tires can often offset minor rolling resistance differences.
Interesting comparison. The geo of a XC hardtail (especially an older model) is the same as a newer gravel frame. I do think you could buy a old XC frame put some gravel(road disc) components and you can actually use the XC wheels. The rims are the same inner width on most, so all you need is gravel tires. I personally have i26 Velocity Blunt SS rims with Panaracer 700x35 gravel kings on back and Kenda flint ridge 700x40 on front of my XC hardtail
I have a Specialized Rock Hopper with a 3-by front chain ring set up. Putting some 38 X 700 Trigger Pro Tubeless style tires on it greatly increased my distance and speed (versus a 2.2 inch knobby set), and I put a Jones Loop H-Bar on it as well. I did that for greater hand positioning and love it. However, I now ride a Specialized AWOL gravel/adventure bike (drop bars), and in windier conditions (I live in Kansas) the AWOL foes out the door far more often than the other bike because of the drop bars. A rigid frame is bumpier, and having a front shock is great for damping some of the shock, but I think the AWOL is better at the stuff I ride. It's a bit lighter in weight, too. Even though the AWOL is a steel frame. That's my take on this. Others will have different ways of thinking about it. Thanks for your comparison videos. I decided to go with the AWOL after one of your previous videos about gravel bikes.
Before I became a roadie I lived in a place where my one hour ride included pavement. Dirt road and single track. My hardtail with the right tire was great for that ride.
On the hard tail just change the front chainring to 38t, stick on a road cassette & gravel tyres simple
Lee Johnson not that simple, road handlebar, rigid fork and geometry made the difference
I have both...my go to is the gravel shod with 40c Maxxis Ramblers. If the the descents are very technical the hard tail for sure.
The gravel’s manoeuvrability and extra hand positions particularly when climbing clinch it for me. It’s simply more fun.
Gravel bikes fill in a gap that 90s era
mountain bikes used to fill as modern mtb are significantly different to handle more aggressive terrain.
the higher rolling resistance comes from the rougher tread pattern and not from the tyre width itself. But there are also very fast MTB tires with very low rolling resistance, which are completely unsuitable for really rough or wet terrain.
Otherwise, wider tyres are slightly less aerodynamic.
I have both. For non-technical riding I'd take the gravel bike over the MTB every time. To me it's just a more comfortable riding position, especially for longer rides.
Missing a hand position on the hard tail. I slide bar ends inside the brake/shifter position on the bar, cover them with a hand grip, and do climbing in a position similar to a tt bike
I find that easier than climbing with my hands on the grips. I am aware of the breathing arguement for the on the grips position, but haven't experienced such a problem. All my riding is on the dirt roads and ATV trails in the local National Forrest.
I would also recommend that instead of riding with lower PSI on the mtn bike, pump it up. I ride the trails with 25ish, but when I ride my neighborhood concrete paths with a few occasional grass sections, I will pump up my psi to 40lbs. it definitely helps.
That "You can get faster wheels" thing you said about the hardtail also applies to most gravel bikes, since nearly all of them can accomodate a set of road wheels with 23mm tyres if the rider wants to do a fast ride on tarmac.
you should do 3 tests - gravel / ht with xc rubber and / ht with gravel rubber, if you have time for that
Gravel with xc tires might require a monstercross gravel bike because even at 27½ rim the tires are still 2+ inches so clearance is a question
This helped a lot hard tail it is! I like to ride for fitness and city commuting nothing more then 20 miles
Thanks. I just bought a 29er MTB for the versatility of doing MTB or gravel rides because I can afford 2 separate bikes at this point. I’m looking to by another wheel set at some point to get a lighter skinnier set for gravel.
Good video. A cyclocross bike (carbon Crux) is my road bike so I can use it for more road oriented rides. Limited on tire clearance, though. Built up a Nine EMD with a rigid fork from the parts box. 3x front so pretty good gearing. Really fun bike! I'll put some fast rolling mountain bike tires on it and ride the roads to the trail for a lap and back by roads. On a 'road' ride I throw some Hurricanes on the EMD and I can cut through the park, ride greenways and some gravel roads on my route but still roll really well on pavement. I went back to running bar ends on mountain bikes after years without them and love them on the EMD.
Likewise here. I bought a CX instead of a road racer, because I wanted the freedom of going off road when I felt like it. I have 32 mm road tyres (GP 4 Seasons), which, although not good in mud, can cope easily with most gravel trails. As for gearing, I use a compact with an 11-30, to get over the 20+% hills in my area. I find I can keep up with most roadies (despite being 56).
I use a hardtail, with slimmer gravel tires, and a 2x12 system. I will eventually switch out the front shocks and upgrade to solid fork. I'm not so flexible so I use flat bar instead of drop bar.
Well, I mostly use my trekking/cross bike for Gravel :) 700x40c wheels and a suspension fork makes it buttery smooth.
Sweet, pretty Stoked for this series!!! Live-Life-Loud!!!🤙🏽
Interesting comparison. As for the hands position on a hardtail, I would recommend to try the innerbarends from SQlab - great choice for anyone, who is using a hardtail often on tarmac and gravel roads.
Ivan Sobotik Consider TOGS as well. Gives me a couple more options without changing much about the bike.
I feel like the point on the different chainrings (1x11vs2x9) is kind of a mute point as that can be exchanged to suit the riders preference. I think the biggest differences are geometry, weight, and tires. The suspension fork can be locked out and opened when needed. It would be interesting to see a direct comparison with equal parts (other than tires and suspension fork).
Moot point not mute.
The Eagle 1 x 12 groupset has a bigger range (520%) than any 2x10 or 2x11 drivetrain I'm aware of. The 1 x 11 SRAM stuff has a bigger range (420% I think) than most 2 chainring setups. The problem is there are huge gaps between gears, which often means you want to be between two of the available gears on long climbs for example. For XC bikes most of the climbs tend to be short, so this isn't an issue, but it knocks SRAM completely out of contention for my hardtail because I ride to the trails on a mix of road and gravel, ride the rough technical trails I need my hardtail for and ride home, all on the one bike.
I run a 3 x 10 with a 530% range and a lot more unique gear ratios with better chainline than the SRAM setup. For some insane reason though Shimano keeps making the gear range on all their groupsets smaller with new iterations rather than making use of the main advantage they have over SRAM. I use the big ring from the touring edition of Shimano XT to get a 44T big ring instead of the 40 they tend to ship with these days. Even if I swapped to 29" wheels from the 27.5s I'm running, I'd still need a 42T up there to get a decent top gear.
I have a Trek ProCaliber 9.8 which lighter than my gravel bike. Haven't spent that much time on the gravel bike yet, but that hardtail 29er provides the most fun on two wheels.
Some gravel bikes now have suspension. I much prefer my gravel bike which has front suspension because it is faster on payment and gravel roads than a mountain bike. They can also be ridden fast on single track. The limitation I find occurs when a full suspension bike is probably better for the terrain. But then one isn't really looking for a hardtail in these conditions either.
mountain bike with drop bars or road bike/cx bike with front suspension or boxxer suspension, please experiment
If its dry, SCHWALBE G-BIG ONE 29 x 2.35 all the way. More than enough traction in the dry, ultra fast on road and gravel, HUGE volume and light too.
This tyre will blow all others away in terms of rolling resistance. If you know your ride is going to be dry check them out.
I use a HT with skinnier tires in gravel events .I weigh a 100 kg so it might be something to think about .Those thin gravel tires are not that strong if you do hit a a hole or rock .When riding rolling hills i am much faster though the dip and can keep momentum much better than a gravel bike .Cornering is faster and safer with suspension and wider tires .Putting drop bars on my HT will sort out the variable hand position problem and going 1 x 12 will sort out the gear range .With the correct tire choice and pressures i can keep up with the gravel bikes on tar.Not convinced getting a gravel bike is my answer
Great comparison. I've got my first ever gravel event coming up next month and I'm using a fat bike. Would love to be doing it on that hardtail though!
I have a Trek 920, which I guess is technically a rigid drop bar 29er with a slightly lower front end. I have 2" tires on it so I can go anywhere a standard hardtail can go. Drop bars definitely help to make it a long distance machine. My Trek Stache can take on much more technical terrain but after 30 or 40 miles on the trail I'm really wishing for some bar ends. My Domane is a bit faster on the road but the 920 is soo much more stable and confidence inspiring on dirt.
I tried to use my hardtail as a gravel grinder. I put a 48 big ring up front (I run a triple). It was not big enough. I was routinely dropped by the gravel bikes/road bikes at the gravel events I did. You simply can't keep up with someone who has a 52 or 54 up front. Thus I got a gravel bike.
There is not 54 stop lying. There is only 50, 52 and max 53 on any road or gravel/cyclocross bike. And yeah, MTBs will never hold a candel to even the heaviest of roadies and gravel bikes, so stick to where you belong, jumping dirt.
Shimano FC-9000 Dura-ace Double Chainset - Hollowtech II 54/42 or 55/42 on 180mm
It isn't the chainring that is slowing you down. Most non-pro riders don't maintain 25mph on gravel. A 36T front ring and an 11 back will get you ~25mph at 100rpm (cadence). The largest disadvantage is the resistance of larger tires and the upright body position.
I like gravel bikes, you can make it a real road bike with 700x25 tires or ride in the dirt with larger tires
even with 700x28
Gotta admit, I couldn't give up on the versatility of a full mountain bike, then again I've never ridden a gravel bike so maybe it's something that I need to give a go.
Great kick off video. I would think the limitation of gearing would be a real issue, especially in a group ride where the group moves even faster than solo by a fair amount.
I've found that having drop bars make a big difference in stiff headwinds. Sure you can move your hands inwards on flatbars but I've found that position gets uncomfortable fast and still isn't as aero as a pair of drops.
On my hardtail in my profile pic , I don’t like the big jumps between cassette gears , I don’t have the intermediate gears like my road bike . Too easy spin or too hard in the high end and never the speed I would have on my road bike. I wonder if a sram road cassette would work with my gx rear long derailleur?
How would a flat bar gravel bike compare to a hard tail? Specialized and Marin are making flat bar gravel bikes.
The main difference is not having as many hand positions. Also you can't get as aerodynamic as you can on drop bars.
Nice!!! I put a rigid steel fork on my hardtail a couple years ago. Ended up getting a hardcore hardtail that is downright amazing on our trails. So my XC hardtail was just sitting there.
My plan was to make it a single speed mtb. But I've decided to turn it into a commuter/gravel bike. I'm going to get a gravel wheelset with some Maxxis Ramblers eventually. But as of right now it has a 42 tooth chainring (that I had to order from Lithuania). XT 1x10. Cut the old bars to 660mm. And a 2.2 Icon on the front with a Maxxis Grifter 2.0 on the back. It's fast! and it will only get faster.
I have a full sus mtb (a Giant Trance 2 - you know the bike very well), a steel single speed cross bike that takes 42mm tires (which I use to shred the easy single track around me) and a road bike. The SS gravel bike is much, much faster on the easy single track in my area than my full-sus mtb even when locked out, and I can still do some moderate group rides on it. If I had to get rid of one, it would be the Trance 2, which I would trade for an aggressive rigid gravel bike.
While I know that you have limited time and funds, but what about a Salsa Cutthroat? It sits directly between the gravel bike and hard tail MTB. Plenty of hand positions, lower position, but big tires. Plus the ability to add front suspension if you want.
Personally I'm just looking for a road bike that doesn't beat me up on the rough-assed roads around here. I have plenty of gravel, but it's a way out. The closest, non-asphalt is a lot of two track-everything from hard clay to sugar sand. 90% of my riding is asphalt and most of that is not really road bike friendly. Looking for something beefier.
The Cutthroat Looks like one of the best do it all machines I’ve seen. Similar to the Open Up. From what you described it sounds like a great choice. Salsa bikes are very unique for sure!
Hello from the Basque Country Mr. Gibbs. Really useful videos. I wonder if you could give me your opinion based on your experience and common sense. Flat bar gravel bike? Here "fire roads" are constantly uphill and downhill and cornering all the time. On top of that they are full of "holes" and small stones. So, specially downhill, being able to maneuver instantly is important. I have a 26er hardtail with vbrakes I'm converting into a 28er with disk brakes but I haven't decided on the handlebar yet.
I love a flat bar road bike for commuting. They are very agile and very fun to maneuver. If you're in situations where you're just doing long straight rides like you encounter in gravel and road, then you're going to want the multiple hand positions of a curved bar. But it sounds like in your situation the flat bar road bike would work well.
Thanks for the review. As far as weight goes, you can get a hardtail down to 18-19 lbs now. Saying this, I am about to get a new hardtail.
You should test a gravel bike against a mtb with a fixed carbon fork (so without suspension)
i use my diamondback heist 1.0 for gravel/forest trails and for tarmac cycle paths 5 hours riding on both up to 100 km its perfect
Im on a budget bike, and Im experimenting with 700x30 tires on a 29 XC frame with rigid fork, I hope I can get lowest times on pavement
@3:21 the main reason 1x sucks besides price - limited gear range
The thing is, nowadays you can find dedicated bikes for all niches of cycling. Because these bikes are purpose built for optimal performance in each specific riding discipling, in a dedicated bike vs a non dedicated bike race, the dedicated one will always win. For me, I ride a hardtail 29er mtb on xc singletrack, and only use the gravel roads to get to the actual trail, so a gravel bike would be just as useless to me as a full suspension mid travel bike. That being said, if you have a wide choice of trails and riding disciplines available to you, you should probably own more than one bike, or not complain about sub optimal performance in various riding disciplines.
I recently bought a talon 3 29er 2018 model. Its my first hardtail. Coming from a hybrid (giant anyroad), I'm loving the freedom the hardtail gives me (jumps, drops you name it). It is quite a bit heavier and its components are all entry level so there is room for an upgrade. I don't use it for very technical terrain, but I do have steep climbs and broken roads in my vicinity. Any advice for shaving a few pounds off my bike (specific components) ? I have a couple of hundred dollars for now. (Current components: SR Suntour XCT HLO 100mm-travel fork with hydraulic lockout, Shimano 3x8-speed drivetrain, Giant double-wall rims with Maxxis Icon tires)
Santa Cruz mtb team use the Stigmata (gravel) for autumn training.
One thing I think you have to have on a hard tail (when riding gravel) is the lockout. My old MTB doesn’t have that.
There was me thinking a mountain bike had 21 gears 😂
Cube nuroad (red/black) or Boardman adv 8.9 ?
Clint, do you have the ability (through your lbs) to compare different drop bar shifter/brake levers? I'm curious which levers offer the most control and comfort while riding on the hoods during a gravel ride or touring. Always enjoy hearing your perspective.
Shimano road levers have a more compact feel whereas SRAM gives you a better surface to rest your hands. That being said it's not a significant difference to where I would prefer one over the other in terms of comfort
sir..good evening..im am jopar from philippines..why is it that some hard tain mountain bike handlebar are lower than the sadle???
A lot of people do that to give really good traction of the front end but in my opinion that's too low. You can put a lot of pressure on your wrists.
What about comparing both bikes on same tire? There 29x2.25 version of G-One Allround. May be it is possible to have comfortable MTB gravel bike with dedicated gravel tire?
Hi Clint, Would have to disagree with some points.... For mixed terrain if you have a gravel bike with bigger tire clearance than your bike I think the gravel bike is going to be just as versatile. Adventure bikes also have suspension fork options as you know. With big tires and that fork there is really not a lot of difference. Plus you get all the hand positions and more aero than you could get on a hardtail.
I guess it all depends on your goals. If hitting single-track aggressively is part of your ride then a mountain bike would be a better choice. You can only do so much with drop bars on rough singletrack descents.
Nice video greetings from. Maryland 🇺🇸
I have to say for street riding in urban environments, I prefer an MTB bike. Often, have to find a way from the street to the sidewalk due to insane car drivers who are text, speeding and don't see bikers till they're right on top of them. MTBs are easier to manage in those instances and deal better with the curbs, change of terrain, grass, etc. If I had miles and miles of unpaved paths with no cars, I might feel differently. But I think this is a relevant comparison. Will be interesting to see the time trial numbers for each compared.
Just like you said, I use my hardtail around my local trail for almost every surface, from singletrack to fire road to pavement etc. would like to invest in a gravel bike but I feel like you’re kind of limited and can only pull that out certain occasions, great video and content overall!
I have a 2018 camber base but I have upgraded tire t 2.6 on front and 2.5 on back. I can upgrade the fork,dropper and oval chainring or I can trade my bike in with 1000 for a 2016 giant trance sx with a 3 years extended warranty left
The mtb can do gravel, slower, but can do it, a gravel bike can’t really do some trails
You can improve a mtb for gravel but if you improve a gravel bike for mtb at the end you got a mtb bike
yeah it beats the purpose of having a gravel bike just to end up trying to make it an mtb better own an mtb its much cheaper than gravel bikes but if you like best of both worlds and little bit faster gravel bike is a pretty good choice
Lone Cyclist where a mtb is lost in on road that’s where a gravel can be used. That’s for me the key of a gravel to combine road sections with light trail sections. For a full mtb experience a gravel is not my cup of tea
Ask... if possible to put a drop bar to a hybrid set up...???
Yes. Typically referred to as a monster cross bike.
Clint Gibbs Thanx... bro.👍
I like those gravel and cyclocross bikes...
Ex bmx racer and mtn biker trying to get something to enjoy living by the beach (recently moved) any recommendations for something budget friendly max 1500$ A hard tail seems so familiar but idk if it’s good for rippin along the coast 🤦🏻♂️ maybe a more comfortable not raced out road bike?
I think you're heading in the right direction. I would look at hard tails from the major brands to get the best value. Those are giant, specialized and trek.
Clint Gibbs right on thanks, anything to really avoid these days? I’m a little out of the game last bikes were custom haven’t bought a complete in a long time.
@@ChristiannTyler if you're going hardtail I would avoid 27.5 and stick with 29. Most likely you do not want a plus bike, which is fatter tires. The only way I would recommend one is if you ride on a lot of sand or just need a ton of stability
Clint Gibbs I actually thought the 27.5 seemed cool since I’m only 5’8 but as I’ve said it’s all new to me and I don’t even know what kind of trails I’ll be able to get into out here. I like some of what trek has as well as Kona
Ctyler93 Kona are really good bikes as well
Hardtail all the way. If you have a 20 pound race hardtail with a super light wheelset it’s as fast as any gravel bike
If you can get your body in similar aerodynamic position as on gravel bike then sure. I believe it will matter more than weight. Also good MTB tires will roll faster than gravel tires on rougher surfaces. Rolling resistance will favor gravel bikes only on tarmac or very good, hardened gravel roads.
Agree
Nope. You're completely ignoring the body position and wind resistance.
not as fast as 16 lb race gravel bike with super light wheelset
Maybe with higher tire pressure, cut handlebars to 40cm and create some drop btw the seat and bars so your body isn’t a giant parachute.
Clint, I dare to contradict a lot of your statements.
1.) For more hand positions on an MTB you can get some inner bar-end (SQ-Lab makes them) and they are a craze in Europe at the moment. You get almost the same aero position as on a road bike. VERY comfortable!
2.) The wider tire has LOWER rolling resistance than a narrower tire. Put the Schwalbe G-One on the MTB and you get the same resistance. Take a bigger Schwalbe LiteSkin Pacestar Tubeless and you beat the best road race tire in rolling resistance ( www.bicyclerollingresistance.com ). It's the tire that causes rolling resistance, not the bike.
3.) The single chainring in the front is a US fade only. They are NOT popular in Europe where 2 chainrings are predominant. So spinning out at higher speed is a non-issue.
4.) A carbon HT MTB is kind of the same weight like a carbon gravel bike. Actually the frames and components are almost the same, except the front fork.
5.) As new gravel bikes come with a front fork now, the difference between both bikes is minimal.
6.) So the only real difference is the aero position, and that's where MTBs with drop-bars come in.
So, best option would be a HT MTB with drop bars, do you mean ?
Paco Valladolid Garcia you could, but inner bar ends are just bar ends between brake lever and gear lever and are cheap. I use Ritcheys and I am mostly in the aero position like on a Road bike.
How would a MTB ride with drop bars? On smooth flat roud on my MTB, I often put my hands in drop bar hood position. Some ingenious person should create a transforming straight bar to drop bar. I'll buy that!
That's what is referred to as a monster cross bike, which is essentially a mountain bike with drop bars and Road shifters. They're not very common but they're very cool bikes.
Hardtail all the way if you are gona ride real mountain trails, yes in pavement you are slower but if you put a faster rear tire on the back and go high in pressure 50psi rear and front you let air out when you get to they mountain, lock the fork, also i have a 3x9 set up 22-32-44 in front,this set up is perfect for a do it all hardtail because whit the 44 chainring you can do a decent speed on pavement and you have all the gears for mountain trails.
Thanks Clint
I think the biggest disadvantage is the hardtail bike is heavier. I have a mountain bike but rarely ride it and prefer to ride the gravel bike.
I want to buy hardtail for longer cycling.. What is best frame size for me i am 176 cm tall, with 77 cm inside leg ??
Most likely a medium
@@ClintGibbs thank you for your replay
Hi Clint, I have the exact same gravel bike as you, and I have been having a nightmarish time keeping my gears indexed. I've taken it to my LBS like 5 or six times noww and still can't seem to get the limit adjesters right. Did you have a similar experience with yours or do you have any advice?
No, the gears have been perfect. The first thing I would check in that situation is your derailleur hanger to see if it's bent.
What is the name of the bikes
Bike companies are constantly creating new avenues of selling and trying to get 1 bike owners to buy a different type of bike for 'similar' use so I will keep my hooked up 20.4 pound 2016 Focus Raven max SL for trails, etc. If championship riders can win races with it I am sure its more than needed for the general public
so the question is..do you want a niner or a niner?
I have a Trek Remedy 8 and I’m considering a Gravel bike as a road/commuter/fitness bike, do you think it’s the best option vs road bike or commuter bike?
To me it sounds like a great option. If you wanted it to be faster on the road or you could just put on some 28c tires
hello what about 650b x 2.1 inch gravel bikes is it still faster than a hardtail? just curious
I would think so but I haven't tested that yet. Hopefully will soon.
Gravel bike is neither for the mountains nor for the road. Something in between
what size front ring would you bump up to be competitive on gravel rides?
what about a full suspension with firm settings?
Mike Rotchburns Check out the 2015 and 2016 hillybilly roubiax. Cole oberman won on a spesh sworks fs mtb. There are some profiles of his bike out there. He has the current course record on it.
Why does the gravel bike have two bottle holders
Great comparison Clint. Is the gravel bike tubeless?
What is the tire size of your gravel bike, width .?
40c
Buy the mountain bike. You can ride gravel on it, but knowing you can also ride the mountain bike trails means you'll never ever have to ride gravel ever again.
As a Mtber I don’t see myself buying a gravel bike ever.
It's nice to have one when the MTB is in the shop and when the trails are too muddy.
Craig Horton A second mtb would be better 👍🏼
my gravel bike can take a 2.0-2.1 650 b and weight is about 201bs. Going from the road to the forest and to double track and some singletrack. This is a more diverse bike in my opinion. You can also put skinny road tires on it and use 700 wheels. Most mountain bikes cant take all of these combinations. Only thing it is not as good on is drops and jumps and rock gardens.
I actually have a flat bar on mine and it works great. I have ridden it on double / single track, gravel road riding events, and use it for gravel touring (KT Trail in MO) too. I built it up over time as parts have worn out / need replacing and is an old school steel frame. Solid bike that can be ridden in a lot of different areas.
The Gefster The part “drops,jumps and rock gardens” is the reason why I wouldn’t buy a gravel, but hey, is just my personal opinion, I know there’s people who enjoy a gravel
I'm a big fan of you . can you ride a stache 7 2018 model mtb and give a comment of the bike . thanks for the time.
We have some 17-20% gravel fireroad climbs, doable on an XC hardtail, not so easy on a gravel bike with a 38 mm tire, or at least I have yet to figure out a technique where the rear wheel doesn’t spin out (even if sitting)...as an aside, climbing on a full suspension is even easier.
Pushing into a headwind is painful with straight handlebars.
What happened to the RLT9 Steel...?
I sold it quite a while ago and only used my cyclocross bike for a while. After test Road in the carbon RLT in Colorado I was sold.
Great...! How would you rate it against the RLT Steel...?
Lighter, faster, a tad more comfortable believe it or not
I believe you made it hard to choose from each model...I was kind of lean towards the Alloy because it was more afortable...then I watched your comparison video between both, stell & Alloy and then changed my mind for the steel...when do you plan a review of the RDO...?
Let's remove two chainrings from mtb and than say what is biggest disadvantage of them
Only reason I went with a gravel bike is because my rides are 60 to 80% pavement.
That's a good reason!
I'd say if you can afford both, you should have them.
I think a hard tail is way safer and I can go downhill way faster. Does your fork lock out very well? I have yet to find one that does. I used to have several Cannondale's with Headshocks which did lock out well, did but they were super unreliable. Anyway - Here's what I built up: ruclips.net/video/EO8k8orIzEw/видео.html Let me know what you think!