I bought mine little over 6 months ago and ran a dozen batches through it. It works great for the price I paid. $130. The ration balls go into the “football “ before the condenser is attached. I put copper mesh in the bottom of the “football “ before attaching it to the pot. I get almost 170 proof and operate it on a pdi system. I think it works great for the money and makes a quality product in the end.
The little balls go in the hole on the tower where the condenser is connected before you connect them together...there is a perforated plate in the lower end that keeps them from falling into the kettle..I have also gotten a little cheese cloth bag to put spice, fruit, etc to put into that chamber through that hole as well... I bought one of these....and it actually works quite well for me for now..I've made a LOT of good, quality spirits with it and it hasn't failed yet....The original water pump sucked...so I got a better one to replace it....I use this directly on my kitchen stove and it takes about 2 hours or so to make a full run...I fully intend on upgrading to a more professional set up in the future....but for a beginners unit....you can't beat the price!!
The second valve on the lid is to let air in when you open that big drain valve.... so you don't have to pull off the air lock. Copper mesh goes inside the football and the ceramic balls go on top of the mesh.... Put them in the 3" hole before you attach the condenser. There's also a built in screen in the football for adding juniper berries. The valve at the bottom of the football is awesome for removing the foreshots. The football will act as a condenser and when the temp is up to about 160° open that little valve and drain the collection basin that's built into the football. I want to say it holds about a half cup. You can also run it with the football mounted sideways as a simple pot still. (Swap the pot and condenser locations.) Works well for my needs. I'd recommend it for an advanced starter type still.... for the beginner that wants to try other methods than simply a pot still. I also just measured the thickness of the materials.... Same as any other stockpot on the market. And if you ordered from Amazon and it arrived damaged, file a claim and they will replace it.
Absolutely genius. Can't wait to try this and demonstrate it while running it. I will make sure I give you credit for the pointers. I have learned so much about this design and appreciate it. George
The little valve on the pot lid would be a breather for when you use the pot for fermenting your mash. The little valve on top of the football chamber would be to bleed off the methane vapors since they are the lightest vapors that rise to the top. The small amount of vapors in that tiny volume would not amount to much methane when condensed, probably less than a milliliter. I have a cheaper version of a Chinese still for 5 gallons. The problems I have found have been that the top does not seal properly and most of bulkhead fittings leak small amounts so I tightened them and or replaced the gaskets and some of the fittings. WIth the lid leaking, I just added those heavy duty paper clips, three each between the lid clamps and this solved the problem. I've made other modifications as well. Mine is a three pot still, mash pot, thumper (sort of), and then the worm pot.
Ha, ha, great review. It looked like a hit job to me. Their stills are in the $1K units. They are beautiful but above my paygrade. Gotta have time on your hands to watch his videos, very informative but long.
This still is a starter still, for those who cannot DYI. While confusing at first, its easily figured out after a few runs, perfect for deciding if the hobby is for you without spend hundreds perhaps thousands to find out. Do you have to modify your process, yes. Is it the same as a 600 dollar still, no. You want a better quality of product, you have to pay more for thicker steel, a licensed welder, customer support, warranty. For someone without a man cave full of tools, parts lying about, welders and a large amount of cash this is a perfect entry still, you can practice mashing, distilling, perfect your processes, learn if this if for you for a lot less.
Hi George, the yellow ceramic honeycomb balls go into the vapor tower through the condenser connecting hole. Inside the vapor tower is a perforated plate that are catching them ( about the height of the indented ring halfway from the middle. You can see the plate from the bottom hole ) You can stuff also your regular copper mesh inside. Just a bit trickier, but doable ). The top and bottom valve can be used as outlets with a thin hose for fusel oils tail and top or the top opening an an access point for a thermocouple. All the best & greetings from Herri in Kunming China ( a German Brewer )
Hi George. I have this exact still. I have had it for over a year and it has worked great for me. I put copper scrubbers in the vapor tower up to the opening to the condenser. I’ve been able to make some good tasting whiskey and rum. I’ll eventually upgrade to a better still but till then it’s been great. Love your channel. I’ve learned a lot.
Just got a comment from a user who says that the football acts a little like a condenser initially and the foreshots can be drawn off from that valve. I will try this and demonstrate in the video. How about that.... George
For what it's worth, I read where the top valve is used to get rid of the methanol and the bottom one gets rid of the tails. You just keep the top one open after the temp reaches 150 and let it bleed off until 180 or so and then shut it. From time to time open the bottom one during brewing and get the bad tasting stuff out. Good luck on finding a hose to fit the outlet condenser!
Hi George .so I just got an email from japan about this still .so the two valves on the football or for when you use there still as a pot still only . The one on the end is to be opened when you start your run and once alcohol starts need to close it after ten minutes of the run .once closed you then need to open the one at the bottom for the duration of your run. This is start from the engineer that created the still for vevor .stills .
Perfect little still to see if you want to get started in the hobby. Kills me how people bash it because its made in China but their go to place to shop is Wal-Mart! Just saying.
Never heard anyone say..i got the best quality from Wal-Mart.... while it's mostly spec'd out from the buyer - so it's not all China's fault. They're just frugal with their raw materials. I've seen some nice stainless come from China and some not so nice. Hey don't worry, rhey bash the USA's manufacturing processes too..... cheers
Well, I guess the china/ccp bashing is now warranted!! Still's great but china's ccp are a pack of fuggers! china can eat my shit and chew all of the corn nuggets in said shit as well!! That opinion may change ever so slightly if they create a vaccine for their ccp virus, and bankrupt their economy paying it ALL out evenly to the families of every single person who they infected and murdered with their little creation!! Left-wing socialist communist assholes 🖕🖕🖕🖕 💥🇺🇸🇺🇸 T R U M P - 2 0 2 0 🇺🇸🇺🇸💥
I got one and everytime i use it my stuff smells scorched or when I open the pot it smells like boiled peanuts and thst smell gets into the distillants
I bought one from Amazon as an entry into distilling. It got me hooked and wanted an upgrade soon after my first few runs. Sorry you're came with no instructions. I paid about $230. Maybe the extra $70 was for better instructions. I think mine may also be a little heavier gauge with a little better welds. In my opinion the alcohol was decent. I will say that the vapor chamber on mine has a plate in the center to hold the ceramic balls which I threw away and bought copper mesh to fill the top half with. You have to be careful with the seal on the pot as you clamp it down to ensure it stays seated properly and thread tape the alcohol spout. I kept it as a backup and to run occasionally. I use an induction cooktop as a heat source. I get a gallon or a little more per run 140 - 150 proof. Thanks for the video
i got mine off eBay no instructions in english i cant read chinese but other than that it works. i was wondering what the packet was that came with it Aj Turner says they think its Koji does it say in your instructions
I purchased mine on Amazon. No dents, all was good! I have made 7 runs so far around 160 proof. I did toss there beads and replaces with ceramic beads. I place a copper packing in between the condenser and vapor chamber. So far i am happy with the results. George the beads go in the Vapor chamber before the condenser is attached .
I did a quick google search for the ceramics ball and it said they go on the bottom of the still to stop isolated boiling spots. First stripping run I did I didnt know what they were for so didnt use them all went good. doing a spirit run (higher alcohol content) the whole thing bounced arround as the alcohol boiled off (I was probably using too much heat) did my google search on the ceramic balls and next spirit run no more bouncing Still.
@@jamesputman8201 VEVOR 304 Stainless Steel 20L/5.28Gal Water Alcohol Distiller Home Kit Moonshine Wine Making Boiler with Thermometer Sold by: Vevor Product question? Ask Seller $199.01 hopes this helps. mine had no dents!
@@trevorharper5151 I placed mine in the evaporator. that is why there is a screen in the bottom. also copper packing's between the evaporator and the condenser will help with sulfates.
Beginners still. When your kids get their 1st car after they get their drivers licence, you don't blow a big load of money on it, it just needs to fulfill all of the requirements and look halfway decent.
George, the screen with the stand-off ring is meant to be used for distillation of essential oils. What you do is fill the lower portion of the pot with clean water then place the screen in on top of that. The next thing would be to add dry "herbs and spices" on top of the screen. Bring the water to a boil then collect the vapors coming off the condenser. The collected oils will separate out from the distilled water and, voila! you have another use for your still.
I have this still too , I cook every month found if you put a bag of marbles with the coral balls in the football it will give you 145 most runs at 1.090 , I have put copper in the football too works just the same as my copper still comes out as 145 but I run mine on the stove at # 9 on the stove any higher and you risk Puking but not if you keep the level at the Handle rivets ,I love this still , Never use the Blue guages I use my reg ones .
Well I just finished my first run on this still as a pot still .and my heart was running at 168 proof .not bad for first time .thank for all you videos I learned a hell of a lot from your channels keep up the great work.
I know you were saying that port might not be high enough for your liking, but what if you used the valve at the top and released all of the methanol first before you started to run it through?
TY BaHB for another good video. We have similar unit and have question about adding packed vertical column above boiler (and below football / condenser units). Hoping to slightly up ABV of end product. I measured the boiler and the football flange outer diameter widths at about 3 1/8 inch width. The interior diameter is about 2.1/3 inch. Not sure how to determine proper tri clamp size (and pipe size) for extending column. What "size" tri clamp would fit the existing boiler and flange size (approx 3" diameter)? TIA aarchie
Hi George. The reason you have three hydrometers - normally 0-40%, 40-70% and 70-100% - is to space the markings out to make it easier to take accurate readings. If you had just one hydrometer with a four-inch scale, the readings would be so close together you wouldn't be able to take accurate readings. Of course, how accurate Chinese hydrometers are is another question...
Thank you very much for tge review. This distill comes has some features which are made for rice wine. First: The two valves on the lid are there to screw one thermometer and one valve with airlock in. Like that, you can ferment something inside and monitor the inside temperature Second: The metal plate is a steaming insert which you can use to steam glutinous rice. This is the first step of making rice wine. Third: When distilling rice wine, you would stain the fermented rice through a cotton bag, put the liquid in the still, add the steaming plate and put the bag of rice on the plate.
Trevor Harper vent off fore shots? Holy cow, that seems a bit dangerous to me! You will have methanol vapor directly in the air, right? Man, talk about a no smoking zone! I mean I am actually blind, so maybe I am missing something here?
@@blindguy63 I agree it is dangerous , you would want to be outdoors if you did , so I just ignore that parts of the instructions and get rid of the fore shots the same way you would in any other still
The bottom valve on the football vapor chamber is a drain valve. if you look in the camber you will see a pipe that extends into the chamber,fluids will get trapped between the pipe and the chamber. The drain is used to drain before you dissemble the still and after you wash it before you put it away.
This type works a treat, consistent 70% on the first pass, and the oemeters cover different ranges. The tables are for making adjustments because of temperature differences. You can also put spacers in with bubble plates and run it as a column still. If you were planning on drinking it, you won't get many aromatics from the mash, you'd probably have to put them in the column line at the top in a basket and vapour infuse.
I'm slow to the show, as usual...but hoping to get a few answers to some newbie questions, but not sure who will be listening given this a 3 year old video. Is the rocket (or football) a "reflux chamber" or an attempt at a one at least, and the ceramic balls are to help with the reflux? Secondly, there is an 18 Gallon option for these stills. Is that too large, meaning if I was to only fill the pot to 2/5 full for example, would that hinder the process, with too much headroom in the pot? Thanks for all the great info George, and patience to explain it all to the newcomers like myself.
Great review George, not sure if you were trying to be but you made me laugh, tongue in cheek humour I'm in stitches 😄 but thanks George I was looking at buying one of these as a small one for pot runs, alongside my T500 which Is for reflux. Thanks
Save your money and run the T500 without putting water in the reflux column. The T500 is amazing, and my experience with running an ebay pot still is that it just made lower proof alcohol that tasted weird.
The valve at top of football is supposed to be to let the first steam methanol off until good alcohol runs so at least what I saw somewhere else does this make sense
Wow! SO impressed and thanks for the help with that. There is no way O can read this. As I learn more about this thing I am more pleased with its capability but still a little disappointed with the gauge of material.
I have exact the same unit. The worst thing, it will start to leak at the rivets on the handles on the vessel. Those stones you can place ont the screen in the vapour chamber. The whole in top of the vapour chamber I use to place a calibrated thermometer, with the measuring point exactly at the connection from vapour chamber and condensor. As I am living in a tropical country I made a copper cooling spiral in the lid, it is neccessary for me during fermenting. Great video!
i bought some of them. thems is alcometers for after you distilled your hootch. you use the appropriate one depending on how strong your distillate is. not only are they good, they are cheap too. i got several so i have replacements for when i fudge up and smash the end off
I make pretty good liquor from one of those. Because it was. Cheap. And I started about 6 months ago.. however George. After learning from you. I now know I'm going to build a copper still.
George, Let's be fair now. The 304 stainless steel on this still is actually 19 gauge (.043") not 22 gauge (.0312") . My American made Revere cookware that I have used for 30 years is 22 gauge and I'm still happy with it. There may be some passivation issues around the welds on some units (which can be fixed) but all in all it's a beginner's still and well worth $159.
I know this is 3 years old, but the top valve on the football is the methanol outlet (all this data is per the seller) the drain on the bottom of the football is supposed to drain the "toxins" caught by the ceramic beads. Hope this helps someone.
Could the vent at the top be to slowly vent off the more volatile compounds a little bit at a time before the vapor chamber comes up to a temperature you want to collect at?
Hello, George. I bet the top valve is for venting after the run to avoid implosion. Nice review and, i dare say, nice gear for such a small price regardless of the dents. Cheers. 👍
The rashing rings do in fact go in the “football” you put them in through the big port on the side. (I don’t own this still but have done a lot of reasearch on it, I also see that you can put copper mesh in there as well).
The screen to be inserted in the kettle can be used when distilling from washes with solid parts, such as fruit to make Slivovitz, Grappa etc. The screen prevents the solids from falling to the bottom where they would risk scorching. The various safety valves are useful when making distillates from washes with solids. The froth can push them up and block the flow of vapour, creating a dangerous situation. It is useful to have the possibility to discharge the pressure easily. The red colours is consistent with it being a safey device (a bit like your emergency lights button, or the button to unlock safety belts). The thermometer is supposed to be on the highest point of the vapour path, and so the connection to the condenser. I have no idea what the upper part of the column (the rugby ball) is for. A strange idea I have is that, maybe, the idea is to let the foreshots to escape through the upper hole. You recognise "by nose" when the foreshots have ended. This avoids "dirtying" the product condenser with stinking foreshots. Then you close the top opening and you obtain, if you don't use any packing, an alembic (pot still) with a bit of a dome, this gives a little bit of reflux (something between 0 and 1 "plate") which is typical in many traditional artisanal pot stills. If I understand well, the column has some screens as well (one of them is visible in the video, and there could be one for each notch) so that one can put some packing in there and use the rugby ball as a column. It's a bit strange but it might be functional.
Hi George. Another great video mate. Fyi there's 25ml to 1inch. (Well as close as) so a 100ml=4inch. Australia used imperial measurement in the early days before switching to metric.
I have one good for what it is. Definitely clean it well. Theirs a chamber at the bottom of the foot ball that can trap things. Found some metal in mine. I washed it several times before my first run just to be safe.
Thanks George. Always enjoy a good chuckle with your "say it how you see it" videos. Those of you that have one of these (or similar in size) what heating device do you use? A heatplate would be too small and given how thin the metal is, a gas ring or hob would probably damage it.
Ratcheting rings go in the vapor chamber through the opening that connects to the condenser. There’s a mesh grate at the bottom of the vapor chamber to keep them from going in to the pot.
Hi. Thank you for posting this. I went and bought the smaller one; 3 gallons, and am very happy with what I got for my money. I am curious though, to know what is the recommended heating method for these stills. Mine was supposed to be able to be used on an induction heater, but it does not. I saw some people using small, single ring electric hobs so I bought a 1500w model. I also tried a small gas camping cooker. Anyway, I cannot get the temperature above 100c. I was hoping to use the unit indoors. Thanks for any help
I have to laugh at a lot of the comments regarding "quality".Which is the better, a paper coffee cup or a ceramic coffee cup? Answer: BOTH. Each one is good for their intended use. It's a 304 series stainless steel fermenter AND distiller. As for the dents... have you seen stills made of copper? They are beat to hell after the most basic use yet it dosen't affect their performance. Who cares what it looks like as long as it functions. Bottom line, it's a starter still, plain and simple and at $159 what is the problem? Have fun with it, learn the craft, if you don't like the way it distills, use it as a fermenter and eventually you'll get your money out of it.
Also, I think you're supposed to put the balls in through the 2" hole on the side. Is it possible to pack that vapor head with copper brillo pad to act more as a reflux?
I think it represents excellent value and is ideal if your not sure you want to get into distilling and the fact it's Chinese has no influence for me on whether |I'd buy it or not !
I bought one of these before I started watching your video’s. It works pretty good , I pump out a solid 65 to 70 percent alcohol. I am definitely going to upgrade, but this was perfect for getting me started and realizing that this is what I want to do and can put out a good tasting product, not something that no one wants to drink.wish I would have found your videos first though George ,and I may have made a better choice and not been ready to upgrade after half a dozen runs.Thankyou for everything, I have learned so much from you and sooo appreciate you sharing your knowledge
@@aaronjackson2780 yes I got a reflux column and put in a site glass with one bubble plate and I bought a pot from Dr gradus out of Russia the pot is absolutely awesome quality and works extremely well with a induction hot plate . Pumping out excellent 92 to 94% shine now
@@aaronjackson2780 the pot was in the high 400$ buy the time it got to Canada but it was well worth every penny, my column I bought from Ali express and it was a couple hundred with all the hoses and connectors and valves, the even sent copper rolls ,and I spent another 60$ on a site glass and bubble plate so I could see what was going on
Hi there, what you´d suggest for a beginner - that one or the Vevor 3 Pot-System incl. the seperate Thumper in observation of longer duration efficient/modern/flexible/professional ? Many thx. in advance for your experienced reply and best regds. from germany :)
Mine has copper tubing, but I still bought copper mesh to stuff in the openings and places that the alcohol passed threw so that it would help with the contamination distillates
Company is Vevor, mine does not have the bottom drain tap and only one hydrometer. Do not use the top exit port at the top of the vapour chamber for venting methanol. A man distilling alcohol in an apartment from Portsmouth England was overcome with fumes and taken to hospital. Condense the methanol then dispose of this safely.
standard order of operation-set up would be to put the condenser to the vapor chamber before the vapor chamber to boiling pot. No 3rd hand required. Just food for thought.
Which adapter (size and or where to find) was used for the heating element bulkhead? I know you said 1.5 inches, but is that the outer flange or the inner hole? Being new to this, I'm just not sure what to get. Thank you
Thank you, thank you, thank you for this review. I emailed you about this. Chinese Pot still, but so many are made in America. Chinese by name as they first sold it to America ebay, as far as I know. Otis From you smile, you may now recommend it, I will get one then move up from there. Thank you
Hey George, seen your "Chinese" pot still review. I recently been seeing the second version on ebay lately (the one you reviewed). You keyed the points I was searching for but the wrong style. I am interested in the three pot still that is similar to the American old style that has a thumper. That one review from first look has a lot going on. But as a entry level I wanted not to invest too much and lack in it. So based on your good points I will try one, three pot still. There are reviews on youtube but lack details and on take and was looking for detailed. Thanks again. To the obvious I would be comfortable swapping out the tubes.
I brought one a few months back , works great , but .. the best % alcohol is 74% . .. I suggest it’s a good starter , but you need a taller chamber or copper mesh to get your % up. Other than that it pretty good for the money
When you open the pot does it smell like boiled peanuts or a vinegary smell. Im new to this and got one of these. And it smells to always have a scorched smell
Great video,,, my first china pot only had lines like what is inside the condenser that ran from pot to the condenser coil,, I really like the tri clamp fittings put on this on , over all I agree that chamber is not thought about much when they designed it, but like you said it does not compare to mile hi or brewhaus stuff..
George, I have watched all your videos. I'm sure I can build my own for cheaper and better than this. I've been brewing for years, beers from kits and wine from kits and also fruit wines. Never really made a bad one. Distilling is my next step. It's illegal here, but what the fuck. I can get hold of a stainless beer barrel and I have sourced all the couplings and copper or stainless tubing. I know I can do all this. It's just science. I even thought of distilling herb extracts, to get essential oils but I need to look nto that a bit more. George you are brilliant. One day I may ring you if I ever have a problem but up until now everything you say is true and good. Thank you for your entertaining videos.
Typically, for high-quality essential oil extraction, you're going to want to use a small benchtop glass still, unless you are doing things on an industrial-sized scale, and even then there are often key design features to keep in mind when producing herbal distillates (such as aromatic lipids like essential oils or pharmacologically-active herbal alkaloids, etc) for dietary supplement and/or cosmetic purposes, as ethanol is admittedly a pretty crude solvent and ethanol distillation doesn't require nearly as much control. Laboratory glassware can admittedly be quite expensive, particularly if you are using the pre-fabricated/assembled distillation kits - of the "hourglass" shape variety (with the boiler in the bottom and a vapor chamber above it) that you're probably familiar with, but it doesn't have to be. It is very easy to adapt an Erlenmeyer or round-bottom flask on an electric hotplate or laboratory heating mantle with silicon tubing to a cheap glass Allihn or jacketed coil condenser. (Vaccum distillation setups are even better, as they allow distillation to occur at much lower temperatures, but require a lot more engineering, money, and time invested). Of course, you can use small stainless stills (though, I would avoid copper altogether, as it is more reactive than stainless and/or glass) for producing herbal distillates and/or essential oil production, just keep in mind that a lot of the premade stills and popular designs that are intended for ethanol production aren't ideal for herbal distillates. You will typically get much better heat transfer and control using smaller stills, again, unless you are willing to invest the time and money to do it on a semi-industrialized scale (which typically includes using prefabricated or DIY micro-controllers). You can use (and even build) basic microcontrollers for automation on small DIY stills (glass or stainless) fairly easily, too, of course, but you can use a basic adjustable electric hotplate or heating mantle so long as you keep an eye on the temperature(s) and adjust accordingly throughout the process. - You just need the ability to control the process as precisely as your equipment allows.. If you do indeed pursue your experimentation and even run into an issue or have any questions, feel free to email me. My inner nerd is always happy to "talk shop'.. 😄 OracleLaboratories@gmail.com (I am a neurobiologist and psychopharmacologist, and was actually looking over this still for use in my work in drug, pharmaceutical compound, and supplement development, as I see a lot of potential for adaptation here, but it would admittedly require a lot of work. It would probably be quite inadequate for essential oil distillation, however - for which I prefer to use smaller glass stills).
The valve at the very top of the vaper chamber is there to let the methanol vapor out and the bottom valve on the vapor chamber is to let the methanol liquid out
I am just starting out. I bought the 2 gallon still from Wish. Cost me $115 delivered. It is stainless with copper fittings. Not enough hose. I had a glass still years ago and it worked great. Now to try this thing. Its from China.
Hello! I'm adding a thumper to this setup but can't seem to get the correct size triclamp to use that has a 1/2 inch npt male or female. Can you recommend what size (diameter) to use?
I just found out you can attach the (football) chamber lying down on its side as well as standing upright. And the lower valve will now be on top to vent out the methanol.
I just bought a 70L one at a price of $140. I don’t want such a big one but it’s cheaper than the 30L one 😢. Haven’t gotten all the mash ready to run it yet, but I bought a better column with reflux to replace the football. Total costed me around $350. I may have to buy another one just because the 70L kettle is just too big…
I don’t own one of these with that said... I think the valve on the top would be to help it drain if your drain it with the lid still attached? I would put copper mesh in the “football” at the bottom, an leave those ball things out completely. Probably would be easier to attach the condenser to the “football” before you attach the football to the boiler. Keep doing these videos very informative!
I bought mine little over 6 months ago and ran a dozen batches through it. It works great for the price I paid. $130. The ration balls go into the “football “ before the condenser is attached. I put copper mesh in the bottom of the “football “ before attaching it to the pot. I get almost 170 proof and operate it on a pdi system. I think it works great for the money and makes a quality product in the end.
This would probably work fine for my purposes, as well.. Where can I find a link to purchase one..? Thanks..
Dave, how much copper mesh do you place in the "football"
@@CryptoMB1122 about 3 to 4 feet on the bottom of the football and the same on the top of it.
@@davedavister7817 thank you so much for that info it helps greatly
Novice here. What does the copper mesh do for your run?
The little balls go in the hole on the tower where the condenser is connected before you connect them together...there is a perforated plate in the lower end that keeps them from falling into the kettle..I have also gotten a little cheese cloth bag to put spice, fruit, etc to put into that chamber through that hole as well...
I bought one of these....and it actually works quite well for me for now..I've made a LOT of good, quality spirits with it and it hasn't failed yet....The original water pump sucked...so I got a better one to replace it....I use this directly on my kitchen stove and it takes about 2 hours or so to make a full run...I fully intend on upgrading to a more professional set up in the future....but for a beginners unit....you can't beat the price!!
The second valve on the lid is to let air in when you open that big drain valve.... so you don't have to pull off the air lock.
Copper mesh goes inside the football and the ceramic balls go on top of the mesh.... Put them in the 3" hole before you attach the condenser. There's also a built in screen in the football for adding juniper berries.
The valve at the bottom of the football is awesome for removing the foreshots. The football will act as a condenser and when the temp is up to about 160° open that little valve and drain the collection basin that's built into the football. I want to say it holds about a half cup.
You can also run it with the football mounted sideways as a simple pot still. (Swap the pot and condenser locations.)
Works well for my needs. I'd recommend it for an advanced starter type still.... for the beginner that wants to try other methods than simply a pot still.
I also just measured the thickness of the materials.... Same as any other stockpot on the market. And if you ordered from Amazon and it arrived damaged, file a claim and they will replace it.
Absolutely genius. Can't wait to try this and demonstrate it while running it. I will make sure I give you credit for the pointers. I have learned so much about this design and appreciate it.
George
Lucky you were here.
I watch the next video and see seeing that you already found all the stuff out sorry.
Thanks for your additional notes, very helpful.
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing www.lazada.com.ph/products/50l-alcohols-distiller-wine-maker-brew-kit-set-home-stainless-moonshine-boiler-i659098323-s1878186337.html?spm=a2o4l.searchlist.list.39.60e92205fg4rCO&search=1
The little valve on the pot lid would be a breather for when you use the pot for fermenting your mash. The little valve on top of the football chamber would be to bleed off the methane vapors since they are the lightest vapors that rise to the top. The small amount of vapors in that tiny volume would not amount to much methane when condensed, probably less than a milliliter. I have a cheaper version of a Chinese still for 5 gallons. The problems I have found have been that the top does not seal properly and most of bulkhead fittings leak small amounts so I tightened them and or replaced the gaskets and some of the fittings. WIth the lid leaking, I just added those heavy duty paper clips, three each between the lid clamps and this solved the problem. I've made other modifications as well. Mine is a three pot still, mash pot, thumper (sort of), and then the worm pot.
Ha, ha, great review. It looked like a hit job to me. Their stills are in the $1K units. They are beautiful but above my paygrade. Gotta have time on your hands to watch his videos, very informative but long.
This still is a starter still, for those who cannot DYI. While confusing at first, its easily figured out after a few runs, perfect for deciding if the hobby is for you without spend hundreds perhaps thousands to find out. Do you have to modify your process, yes. Is it the same as a 600 dollar still, no. You want a better quality of product, you have to pay more for thicker steel, a licensed welder, customer support, warranty. For someone without a man cave full of tools, parts lying about, welders and a large amount of cash this is a perfect entry still, you can practice mashing, distilling, perfect your processes, learn if this if for you for a lot less.
Dan Sullivan DIY*
Hay Dan have you used this still before looking at getting one of these as I heard t500 you can run grain thru it
Hi George, the yellow ceramic honeycomb balls go into the vapor tower through the condenser connecting hole. Inside the vapor tower is a perforated plate that are catching them ( about the height of the indented ring halfway from the middle. You can see the plate from the bottom hole ) You can stuff also your regular copper mesh inside. Just a bit trickier, but doable ). The top and bottom valve can be used as outlets with a thin hose for fusel oils tail and top or the top opening an an access point for a thermocouple. All the best & greetings from Herri in Kunming China ( a German Brewer )
Can you leave the bottom valve open while running to drain fussel oils?
Hi George. I have this exact still. I have had it for over a year and it has worked great for me. I put copper scrubbers in the vapor tower up to the opening to the condenser. I’ve been able to make some good tasting whiskey and rum. I’ll eventually upgrade to a better still but till then it’s been great. Love your channel. I’ve learned a lot.
@bu The way Dave said he uses it, you'd have some passive reflux.
Thank you for all the education on distilling. You have convinced me to start making my own hootch.
I'm watching from New Zealand after a too few many diy whiskeys, great comedy George, well done. 😂
Any idea what the bottom valve on the football is for? Is there a coil inside there that connects to the top valve for running water through?
Just got a comment from a user who says that the football acts a little like a condenser initially and the foreshots can be drawn off from that valve. I will try this and demonstrate in the video.
How about that....
George
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing Cool! I appreciate you spending the time and money on this thing. Always been curious about them.
For what it's worth, I read where the top valve is used to get rid of the methanol and the bottom one gets rid of the tails. You just keep the top one open after the temp reaches 150 and let it bleed off until 180 or so and then shut it. From time to time open the bottom one during brewing and get the bad tasting stuff out. Good luck on finding a hose to fit the outlet condenser!
Hi George .so I just got an email from japan about this still .so the two valves on the football or for when you use there still as a pot still only . The one on the end is to be opened when you start your run and once alcohol starts need to close it after ten minutes of the run .once closed you then need to open the one at the bottom for the duration of your run. This is start from the engineer that created the still for vevor .stills .
What is the size of the clamp for the lid? just ordered the 16 gallon so i am trying to find a different reflux that will fit on the lid???
Perfect little still to see if you want to get started in the hobby. Kills me how people bash it because its made in China but their go to place to shop is Wal-Mart! Just saying.
Exactly!!! Just people being hateful and discriminatory while they type up their comments on Chinese devices. Ohhh the hate!
Never heard anyone say..i got the best quality from Wal-Mart.... while it's mostly spec'd out from the buyer - so it's not all China's fault. They're just frugal with their raw materials. I've seen some nice stainless come from China and some not so nice. Hey don't worry, rhey bash the USA's manufacturing processes too..... cheers
Well, I guess the china/ccp bashing is now warranted!!
Still's great but china's ccp are a pack of fuggers!
china can eat my shit and chew all of the corn nuggets in said shit as well!!
That opinion may change ever so slightly if they create a vaccine for their ccp virus, and bankrupt their economy paying it ALL out evenly to the families of every single person who they infected and murdered with their little creation!!
Left-wing socialist communist assholes 🖕🖕🖕🖕
💥🇺🇸🇺🇸 T R U M P - 2 0 2 0 🇺🇸🇺🇸💥
They hated him because he said the truth!
I got one and everytime i use it my stuff smells scorched or when I open the pot it smells like boiled peanuts and thst smell gets into the distillants
I bought one from Amazon as an entry into distilling. It got me hooked and wanted an upgrade soon after my first few runs. Sorry you're came with no instructions. I paid about $230. Maybe the extra $70 was for better instructions. I think mine may also be a little heavier gauge with a little better welds. In my opinion the alcohol was decent. I will say that the vapor chamber on mine has a plate in the center to hold the ceramic balls which I threw away and bought copper mesh to fill the top half with. You have to be careful with the seal on the pot as you clamp it down to ensure it stays seated properly and thread tape the alcohol spout. I kept it as a backup and to run occasionally. I use an induction cooktop as a heat source. I get a gallon or a little more per run 140 - 150 proof. Thanks for the video
i got mine off eBay no instructions in english i cant read chinese but other than that it works. i was wondering what the packet was that came with it Aj Turner says they think its Koji does it say in your instructions
I purchased mine on Amazon. No dents, all was good! I have made 7 runs so far around 160 proof. I did toss there beads and replaces with ceramic beads. I place a copper packing in between the condenser and vapor chamber. So far i am happy with the results.
George the beads go in the Vapor chamber before the condenser is attached .
I did a quick google search for the ceramics ball and it said they go on the bottom of the still to stop isolated boiling spots. First stripping run I did I didnt know what they were for so didnt use them all went good. doing a spirit run (higher alcohol content) the whole thing bounced arround as the alcohol boiled off (I was probably using too much heat) did my google search on the ceramic balls and next spirit run no more bouncing Still.
ray what was it called on amazon
@@jamesputman8201
VEVOR 304 Stainless Steel 20L/5.28Gal Water Alcohol Distiller Home Kit Moonshine Wine Making Boiler with Thermometer
Sold by: Vevor Product question? Ask Seller
$199.01
hopes this helps. mine had no dents!
@@trevorharper5151 I placed mine in the evaporator. that is why there is a screen in the bottom. also copper packing's between the evaporator and the condenser will help with sulfates.
@@rayhageman cheekypeakbrewery.com.au/turbo-500-ceramic-boil-enhancers The details say what ceramic boil enhancers do
Beginners still. When your kids get their 1st car after they get their drivers licence, you don't blow a big load of money on it, it just needs to fulfill all of the requirements and look halfway decent.
George, the screen with the stand-off ring is meant to be used for distillation of essential oils. What you do is fill the lower portion of the pot with clean water then place the screen in on top of that. The next thing would be to add dry "herbs and spices" on top of the screen. Bring the water to a boil then collect the vapors coming off the condenser. The collected oils will separate out from the distilled water and, voila! you have another use for your still.
Awesome
I have this still too , I cook every month found if you put a bag of marbles with the coral balls in the football it will give you 145 most runs at 1.090 , I have put copper in the football too works just the same as my copper still comes out as 145 but I run mine on the stove at # 9 on the stove any higher and you risk Puking but not if you keep the level at the Handle rivets ,I love this still , Never use the Blue guages I use my reg ones .
Well I just finished my first run on this still as a pot still .and my heart was running at 168 proof .not bad for first time .thank for all you videos I learned a hell of a lot from your channels keep up the great work.
I cannot find this version with the element/drain port...do you happen to have a link to it?
@@justinsgarage1125 we bought ours off of Amazon
I know you were saying that port might not be high enough for your liking, but what if you used the valve at the top and released all of the methanol first before you started to run it through?
TY BaHB for another good video. We have similar unit and have question about adding packed vertical column above boiler (and below football / condenser units). Hoping to slightly up ABV of end product. I measured the boiler and the football flange outer diameter widths at about 3 1/8 inch width. The interior diameter is about 2.1/3 inch. Not sure how to determine proper tri clamp size (and pipe size) for extending column. What "size" tri clamp would fit the existing boiler and flange size (approx 3" diameter)? TIA aarchie
Hi George. The reason you have three hydrometers - normally 0-40%, 40-70% and 70-100% - is to space the markings out to make it easier to take accurate readings. If you had just one hydrometer with a four-inch scale, the readings would be so close together you wouldn't be able to take accurate readings. Of course, how accurate Chinese hydrometers are is another question...
That valve at the top could be used to vent the heads?
I bet you could if the opening was big enough. Collect your forshots and heads then close a valve to collect the run from the condenser.
Thank you very much for tge review.
This distill comes has some features which are made for rice wine.
First: The two valves on the lid are there to screw one thermometer and one valve with airlock in. Like that, you can ferment something inside and monitor the inside temperature
Second: The metal plate is a steaming insert which you can use to steam glutinous rice. This is the first step of making rice wine.
Third: When distilling rice wine, you would stain the fermented rice through a cotton bag, put the liquid in the still, add the steaming plate and put the bag of rice on the plate.
Apart from being a distill, you can use this device as a regular steamer and as a fermentation vessel, and also as a large cooking pot.
instructions say top vent is for venting off foreshots. keep it open between 50 and 60 degrees C
Trevor Harper that’s what I was thinking.
Trevor Harper vent off fore shots? Holy cow, that seems a bit dangerous to me! You will have methanol vapor directly in the air, right? Man, talk about a no smoking zone! I mean I am actually blind, so maybe I am missing something here?
@@blindguy63 I agree it is dangerous , you would want to be outdoors if you did , so I just ignore that parts of the instructions and get rid of the fore shots the same way you would in any other still
@@blindguy63 It comes out in a weak vapor, I guess if you got up there and lit a match it might go but it doesn't seem too bad.
@@trevorharper5151 why dont you just connect a silicon tube into a big glass of water?
The ceramic spheres go into the "Football" (which has a little "shelf" that supports them) through the side port BEFORE attaching the condenser... ;-)
The bottom valve on the football vapor chamber is a drain valve. if you look in the camber you will see a pipe that extends into the chamber,fluids will get trapped between the pipe and the chamber. The drain is used to drain before you dissemble the still and after you wash it before you put it away.
I figure those. Balls go. Into the port you attach the condenor to??
This type works a treat, consistent 70% on the first pass, and the oemeters cover different ranges. The tables are for making adjustments because of temperature differences. You can also put spacers in with bubble plates and run it as a column still. If you were planning on drinking it, you won't get many aromatics from the mash, you'd probably have to put them in the column line at the top in a basket and vapour infuse.
You're a likeable, knowledgeable fellow, and I'm a new fan. Nice job.
I'm slow to the show, as usual...but hoping to get a few answers to some newbie questions, but not sure who will be listening given this a 3 year old video.
Is the rocket (or football) a "reflux chamber" or an attempt at a one at least, and the ceramic balls are to help with the reflux? Secondly, there is an 18 Gallon option for these stills. Is that too large, meaning if I was to only fill the pot to 2/5 full for example, would that hinder the process, with too much headroom in the pot? Thanks for all the great info George, and patience to explain it all to the newcomers like myself.
Perhaps read the manual, the top valve is for releasing the heads as vapour, however normally you catch them in the first distilled part
Thanks George. As you say it looks like a great entry level still. Interested to see it run.
Coming soon.
Great review George, not sure if you were trying to be but you made me laugh, tongue in cheek humour I'm in stitches 😄 but thanks George I was looking at buying one of these as a small one for pot runs, alongside my T500 which Is for reflux. Thanks
Save your money and run the T500 without putting water in the reflux column. The T500 is amazing, and my experience with running an ebay pot still is that it just made lower proof alcohol that tasted weird.
The valve at top of football is supposed to be to let the first steam methanol off until good alcohol runs so at least what I saw somewhere else does this make sense
Great video, looks like a great out of the box starter kit. Loved the video.
@13:36 the Chinese means "Alcohol gauge temperature and concentration conversion table"
Wow! SO impressed and thanks for the help with that.
There is no way O can read this. As I learn more about this thing I am more pleased with its capability but still a little disappointed with the gauge of material.
I have exact the same unit. The worst thing, it will start to leak at the rivets on the handles on the vessel. Those stones you can place ont the screen in the vapour chamber. The whole in top of the vapour chamber I use to place a calibrated thermometer, with the measuring point exactly at the connection from vapour chamber and condensor. As I am living in a tropical country I made a copper cooling spiral in the lid, it is neccessary for me during fermenting.
Great video!
i bought some of them. thems is alcometers for after you distilled your hootch. you use the appropriate one depending on how strong your distillate is. not only are they good, they are cheap too. i got several so i have replacements for when i fudge up and smash the end off
I make pretty good liquor from one of those. Because it was. Cheap. And I started about 6 months ago.. however George. After learning from you. I now know I'm going to build a copper still.
Man you are awesome! Thanks for sharing your experience and expertise with us.
it's clear by the boost in viewer numbers on this video, that you should do reviews. A lot of companies will even provide the product
Please give me a link where you got the still from. I want to get one as a stater.
Maybe the port at the top is used to remove the methanol.
George, Let's be fair now. The 304 stainless steel on this still is actually 19 gauge (.043") not 22 gauge (.0312") . My American made Revere cookware that I have used for 30 years is 22 gauge and I'm still happy with it. There may be some passivation issues around the welds on some units (which can be fixed) but all in all it's a beginner's still and well worth $159.
If you watched the whole video you’d know that’s what he says at the end 🤦♂️🙄
I know this is 3 years old, but the top valve on the football is the methanol outlet (all this data is per the seller) the drain on the bottom of the football is supposed to drain the "toxins" caught by the ceramic beads. Hope this helps someone.
Qiite the still, Thinking that little yellow thermometer is for the top of the football?? Those dents can be pushed out easily
Maybe hammered out
Could the vent at the top be to slowly vent off the more volatile compounds a little bit at a time before the vapor chamber comes up to a temperature you want to collect at?
Hello, George. I bet the top valve is for venting after the run to avoid implosion. Nice review and, i dare say, nice gear for such a small price regardless of the dents. Cheers. 👍
You think testing it for lead would necessary?
I do and was hoping someone would have commented this info.
like this show its great an brings a smile
Hi! Mine just came in. My question is this. How long do I keep the valve on top of the football open to release methanol before I shut it
The rashing rings do in fact go in the “football” you put them in through the big port on the side. (I don’t own this still but have done a lot of reasearch on it, I also see that you can put copper mesh in there as well).
The screen to be inserted in the kettle can be used when distilling from washes with solid parts, such as fruit to make Slivovitz, Grappa etc. The screen prevents the solids from falling to the bottom where they would risk scorching.
The various safety valves are useful when making distillates from washes with solids. The froth can push them up and block the flow of vapour, creating a dangerous situation. It is useful to have the possibility to discharge the pressure easily. The red colours is consistent with it being a safey device (a bit like your emergency lights button, or the button to unlock safety belts).
The thermometer is supposed to be on the highest point of the vapour path, and so the connection to the condenser. I have no idea what the upper part of the column (the rugby ball) is for. A strange idea I have is that, maybe, the idea is to let the foreshots to escape through the upper hole. You recognise "by nose" when the foreshots have ended. This avoids "dirtying" the product condenser with stinking foreshots. Then you close the top opening and you obtain, if you don't use any packing, an alembic (pot still) with a bit of a dome, this gives a little bit of reflux (something between 0 and 1 "plate") which is typical in many traditional artisanal pot stills.
If I understand well, the column has some screens as well (one of them is visible in the video, and there could be one for each notch) so that one can put some packing in there and use the rugby ball as a column. It's a bit strange but it might be functional.
Hi there I see you have that side port for your heating element, all the ones I see on ebay don't show that port
Hi George. Another great video mate. Fyi there's 25ml to 1inch. (Well as close as) so a 100ml=4inch. Australia used imperial measurement in the early days before switching to metric.
Doesn't the unit (ml) refer to Milliliters, as in liquid volume mate?
I suggest it should be written as mm. Not ml
Its Chinese...we use rice...measure cup is for the ground up yeast ball...
I have one good for what it is. Definitely clean it well. Theirs a chamber at the bottom of the foot ball that can trap things. Found some metal in mine. I washed it several times before my first run just to be safe.
Thanks George. Always enjoy a good chuckle with your "say it how you see it" videos. Those of you that have one of these (or similar in size) what heating device do you use? A heatplate would be too small and given how thin the metal is, a gas ring or hob would probably damage it.
Agreed! Any advice on heating device? I'm not too keen on a gas ring.
Following
love your channel! Great content! Can you do me a favor and tell me the height if this complete assembly (30L), as well as the pot diameter?
Ratcheting rings go in the vapor chamber through the opening that connects to the condenser. There’s a mesh grate at the bottom of the vapor chamber to keep them from going in to the pot.
Hi. Thank you for posting this. I went and bought the smaller one; 3 gallons, and am very happy with what I got for my money. I am curious though, to know what is the recommended heating method for these stills. Mine was supposed to be able to be used on an induction heater, but it does not. I saw some people using small, single ring electric hobs so I bought a 1500w model. I also tried a small gas camping cooker. Anyway, I cannot get the temperature above 100c. I was hoping to use the unit indoors. Thanks for any help
Hey Georgie. This still is great it's a Japanese style. It will do both pot still and reflux. Depending on how you use it vertically or horizontally
Vertically is for reflux? And horizontally for pot still?
Which way is better for whisky and tequila?
I have to laugh at a lot of the comments regarding "quality".Which is the better, a paper coffee cup or a ceramic coffee cup? Answer: BOTH. Each one is good for their intended use. It's a 304 series stainless steel fermenter AND distiller. As for the dents... have you seen stills made of copper? They are beat to hell after the most basic use yet it dosen't affect their performance. Who cares what it looks like as long as it functions. Bottom line, it's a starter still, plain and simple and at $159 what is the problem? Have fun with it, learn the craft, if you don't like the way it distills, use it as a fermenter and eventually you'll get your money out of it.
Also, I think you're supposed to put the balls in through the 2" hole on the side.
Is it possible to pack that vapor head with copper brillo pad to act more as a reflux?
I like your attitude sir! Nice video!
I think it represents excellent value and is ideal if your not sure you want to get into distilling and the fact it's Chinese has no influence for me on whether |I'd buy it or not !
You are too cool! Thank you so much for this video!🎉
Those clamps look like v band clamps used usually with turbos on turboed engines. Usually can get them at parts stores too. They seem to work good
I bought one of these before I started watching your video’s. It works pretty good , I pump out a solid 65 to 70 percent alcohol. I am definitely going to upgrade, but this was perfect for getting me started and realizing that this is what I want to do and can put out a good tasting product, not something that no one wants to drink.wish I would have found your videos first though George ,and I may have made a better choice and not been ready to upgrade after half a dozen runs.Thankyou for everything, I have learned so much from you and sooo appreciate you sharing your knowledge
Did u ever get a different one?
@@aaronjackson2780 yes I got a reflux column and put in a site glass with one bubble plate and I bought a pot from Dr gradus out of Russia the pot is absolutely awesome quality and works extremely well with a induction hot plate . Pumping out excellent 92 to 94% shine now
@@leetrenholm4926 wow, good for you! How much did it set you back if you dont mind me asking?
@@aaronjackson2780 the pot was in the high 400$ buy the time it got to Canada but it was well worth every penny, my column I bought from Ali express and it was a couple hundred with all the hoses and connectors and valves, the even sent copper rolls ,and I spent another 60$ on a site glass and bubble plate so I could see what was going on
So the alcohol vapor is cooled off by touching the coil and not going through it.?????
Hi there, what you´d suggest for a beginner - that one or the Vevor 3 Pot-System incl. the seperate Thumper in observation of longer duration efficient/modern/flexible/professional ? Many thx. in advance for your experienced reply and best regds. from germany :)
i think the valve in the lid is to use it as a pressure cooker?
Mine has copper tubing, but I still bought copper mesh to stuff in the openings and places that the alcohol passed threw so that it would help with the contamination distillates
Company is Vevor, mine does not have the bottom drain tap and only one hydrometer. Do not use the top exit port at the top of the vapour chamber for venting methanol. A man distilling alcohol in an apartment from Portsmouth England was overcome with fumes and taken to hospital. Condense the methanol then dispose of this safely.
Well what do you think about copper?
standard order of operation-set up would be to put the condenser to the vapor chamber before the vapor chamber to boiling pot. No 3rd hand required. Just food for thought.
Any helpful links on where to buy one? I do have the little 3gal version but looking for something a little larger. Thanks in advance!
What about the two values, one on top of the pot and one on the vapor chamber to release the four shot vapors
Valve on the top of football is for cleaning, look inside, there is a Bowl with holes to spread water.
Which adapter (size and or where to find) was used for the heating element bulkhead? I know you said 1.5 inches, but is that the outer flange or the inner hole? Being new to this, I'm just not sure what to get. Thank you
TC are 3"
Thank you, thank you, thank you for this review. I emailed you about this. Chinese Pot still, but so many are made in America. Chinese by name as they first sold it to America ebay, as far as I know. Otis
From you smile, you may now recommend it, I will get one then move up from there. Thank you
Hey George, seen your "Chinese" pot still review. I recently been seeing the second version on ebay lately (the one you reviewed). You keyed the points I was searching for but the wrong style. I am interested in the three pot still that is similar to the American old style that has a thumper. That one review from first look has a lot going on. But as a entry level I wanted not to invest too much and lack in it. So based on your good points I will try one, three pot still. There are reviews on youtube but lack details and on take and was looking for detailed. Thanks again. To the obvious I would be comfortable swapping out the tubes.
I brought one a few months back , works great , but .. the best % alcohol is 74% . .. I suggest it’s a good starter , but you need a taller chamber or copper mesh to get your % up. Other than that it pretty good for the money
When you open the pot does it smell like boiled peanuts or a vinegary smell. Im new to this and got one of these. And it smells to always have a scorched smell
@@stephenknecht7189 It happen to me also when I used it last time. I could not figure what may have cause it.
Great video,,, my first china pot only had lines like what is inside the condenser that ran from pot to the condenser coil,, I really like the tri clamp fittings put on this on , over all I agree that chamber is not thought about much when they designed it, but like you said it does not compare to mile hi or brewhaus stuff..
Where did you buy that at. All the o e I see don't have the drain port
The ceramic balls go in the vapor chamber according to the instructions it came with from Amazon
Put it together before putting it on the vessel?
How do i get one like this in a 18 gallon? Please belp cant find bottom port model. Thanks
George, I have watched all your videos. I'm sure I can build my own for cheaper and better than this. I've been brewing for years, beers from kits and wine from kits and also fruit wines. Never really made a bad one. Distilling is my next step. It's illegal here, but what the fuck. I can get hold of a stainless beer barrel and I have sourced all the couplings and copper or stainless tubing. I know I can do all this. It's just science. I even thought of distilling herb extracts, to get essential oils but I need to look nto that a bit more. George you are brilliant. One day I may ring you if I ever have a problem but up until now everything you say is true and good. Thank you for your entertaining videos.
Typically, for high-quality essential oil extraction, you're going to want to use a small benchtop glass still, unless you are doing things on an industrial-sized scale, and even then there are often key design features to keep in mind when producing herbal distillates (such as aromatic lipids like essential oils or pharmacologically-active herbal alkaloids, etc) for dietary supplement and/or cosmetic purposes, as ethanol is admittedly a pretty crude solvent and ethanol distillation doesn't require nearly as much control. Laboratory glassware can admittedly be quite expensive, particularly if you are using the pre-fabricated/assembled distillation kits - of the "hourglass" shape variety (with the boiler in the bottom and a vapor chamber above it) that you're probably familiar with, but it doesn't have to be. It is very easy to adapt an Erlenmeyer or round-bottom flask on an electric hotplate or laboratory heating mantle with silicon tubing to a cheap glass Allihn or jacketed coil condenser. (Vaccum distillation setups are even better, as they allow distillation to occur at much lower temperatures, but require a lot more engineering, money, and time invested).
Of course, you can use small stainless stills (though, I would avoid copper altogether, as it is more reactive than stainless and/or glass) for producing herbal distillates and/or essential oil production, just keep in mind that a lot of the premade stills and popular designs that are intended for ethanol production aren't ideal for herbal distillates. You will typically get much better heat transfer and control using smaller stills, again, unless you are willing to invest the time and money to do it on a semi-industrialized scale (which typically includes using prefabricated or DIY micro-controllers). You can use (and even build) basic microcontrollers for automation on small DIY stills (glass or stainless) fairly easily, too, of course, but you can use a basic adjustable electric hotplate or heating mantle so long as you keep an eye on the temperature(s) and adjust accordingly throughout the process. - You just need the ability to control the process as precisely as your equipment allows..
If you do indeed pursue your experimentation and even run into an issue or have any questions, feel free to email me. My inner nerd is always happy to "talk shop'.. 😄 OracleLaboratories@gmail.com
(I am a neurobiologist and psychopharmacologist, and was actually looking over this still for use in my work in drug, pharmaceutical compound, and supplement development, as I see a lot of potential for adaptation here, but it would admittedly require a lot of work. It would probably be quite inadequate for essential oil distillation, however - for which I prefer to use smaller glass stills).
Can also run with the tower sideways for a pot still.
The valve at the very top of the vaper chamber is there to let the methanol vapor out and the bottom valve on the vapor chamber is to let the methanol liquid out
I am just starting out. I bought the 2 gallon still from Wish. Cost me $115 delivered. It is stainless with copper fittings. Not enough hose. I had a glass still years ago and it worked great. Now to try this thing. Its from China.
I had a shit fit till I layed it down to attach the condensor. Haha. Mine also doesn't have the top fitting for a valve? Hmm?
Hello! I'm adding a thumper to this setup but can't seem to get the correct size triclamp to use that has a 1/2 inch npt male or female. Can you recommend what size (diameter) to use?
Have you used it? did it work?
I just found out you can attach the (football) chamber lying down on its side as well as standing upright. And the lower valve will now be on top to vent out the methanol.
Where do you find the info about this
Lmao, you're like the hank hill of distilling at some points in this video.
I just bought a 70L one at a price of $140. I don’t want such a big one but it’s cheaper than the 30L one 😢. Haven’t gotten all the mash ready to run it yet, but I bought a better column with reflux to replace the football. Total costed me around $350. I may have to buy another one just because the 70L kettle is just too big…
So in which category does this thing falls a column still or a pot still?
I don’t own one of these with that said...
I think the valve on the top would be to help it drain if your drain it with the lid still attached?
I would put copper mesh in the “football” at the bottom, an leave those ball things out completely.
Probably would be easier to attach the condenser to the “football” before you attach the football to the boiler.
Keep doing these videos very informative!
I’m trying to figure out what size the all the connections are?
TC are 3"
Do all the 30L ones have the tri cupler on the side for elements?