the studs are also available as a kit (comes with the cone washer, flat washer, nut and stud) from Marlin Crawler. even with expedited shipping 12 kits were 87 bucks.
You are the only person on this lovely place call internet that specifically calls out and shows you taking that lock nut out before pushing out the wheel hub. The 4WD community really screws the 2WD community at times. What is more interesting is the FSM doesn't even call out to remove that locknut before pressing the hub out
Would I have to press the 4x4 hub into the 2wd knuckle that I got from the junk yard or can I just take that dust cover off and CV axle slip right in? I'm not ready to do this upgrade yet I'm asking because my threads stripped on my knuckle for the brake caliper and only the knuckle needs to be replaced.
You would have to press the hub into that knuckle like I show in my video. It’s cheapest and easiest to get a Tacoma knuckle since you can literally just swap it in
Slightly better mpg, because with unlocked hubs the engine isn't having to overcome the inertial mass of the axles to make them spin during acceleration. It's probably a very slight improvement, but will be some improvement.
For my understanding you never did anything to your stock diff tube all means, you can use you axle tube from its original. Pretty much just axle, hub, bearing etc. My question is, why ppl switch the ADD TO NON ADD and what's the reason they do that will benefit. I did hear you said your leaving your ADD and want does it do different from having ADD/NON ADD
My hang up on this project is right here, too. At least, I'm trying to make sense of it, so I can pull the trigger on some parts. I'm sure it's straight-forward, I'm just overloaded with (mis)information so often I've actually taken to asking IN-PERSON, and they are shocked, most tell me I can look it up, cause they don't know, and would likely just look it up themselves. Even though old-school logic might tell you to slap a hose clamp inside the actuator and 'call it a day', just feels wrong. Is it just ignorance on my end? I don't care, keyword here is longevity. I'm motivated enough to do these things myself, so I should while my back and neck will allow. I digress... For instance, there is (was?) a kit made by ORS (Off Road Solutions) to convert CV axles to accept manual hubs that apparently retained the use of A.D.D. I'm guessing this is only possible if you are NOT running a front auto locker like Spartan, does that sound correct? The A.D.D. will engage the front axles, thereby engaging the locker if you were to do so on-the-fly, right?
Eliminating ADD just eliminates a potential failure to the 4wd system. It’s not needed any longer since you would have manual hubs and engage manually. You’re basically adding another switch. The ADD system hardly fails but if it did, you have the option of just not fixing it and capping it off, since you have manual hubs.
Hey man, just wanted to say THANKYOU! My new to me T100 had a stripped hub stud on each side which I found when switching to manual hubs. I looked EVERYWHERE to figure out how to replace them and just about gave up until I found your video! I figured out how to extract the bad stud by using a stripped bolt extractor, however, how do I get a replacement stud out of a donor vehicle without damaging the threads, then how do I install? Thanks!
i've got a 99 4r non locked, and wanna retrofit a oem e locker someday, and a locker up front too since id have to regear both front and rear. im wondering if manual hubs are required for spartan lockers in the front? or will the spartan locker only engage in 4wd?
@@PhoRunner so you're saying that with ADD front diff, manual hubs isn't necessary if operating in 2wd and won't make clicking noise when driving in 2wd because the ring and pinion won't be turning?
@@PhoRunner I want to install a lunchbox/aussie locker up front on mine, seeing if it's worth swapping to manual hubs up front. After watching your video, seems like manual hubs isn't needed?
Hello! I got a 1996 4runner abs. So youre telling me i can use my stock spindle and just buy a Tacoma Manual hubs and Tacoma Cv axle and everything is plug and play? My bearings and seals are still good. I need your help bro for this conversion! Anything im missing?
No, you would want the tacoma spindles if you want it to be plug and play. In the video, I rebuilt my 4runner spindle to be compatible with the tacoma cv and and manual hubs.
@@PhoRunner ikr? I'm doing 2x4 to 4x4 convertion atm and seems like the yota clubs and off road enthusiasts clubs don't got mountains of info as I expected and /or u have to sift through tons of reading materials to get it good thing I'm mechanical and did 2 years of my mechanics apprenticeship @a toyota dealership . Good video thx u answered all my maual hub questions and confirmed my theories . Lol thx good video and thx for taking to to reply 😊
Would an Aisin Manual hub from 1985-1995 4runner/t100 26 spline fit? Im trying to gather around parts for the conversion. Also, the ADD hub, do i need an ADD one? I have button to press on the side of the joystick whenever i need to go 4wd. I don’t know much about ADD. I’m trying to gather parts for the conversion.
@@eddvale2805 yeah only the tacoma hubs will workl on 3rd gen. They share a lot of parts so that's why it works. 2nd gen 4runners are very different from 3rd gen.
Can I get with you about some questions pertaining to a similar conversion I'm making? My Runner is 2nd gen. I got manual hubs but have read nothing else is needed, not even gaskets, because of the static flange I'm converting from... or something...
i do not believe so. sorry i'm not much help here... I don't own a 2nd gen and haven't worked on it enough. But given there's no strut setup on a 2nd gen, it probably isn't the same.
I believe they do not. But yes you can swap the whole thing in. The only thing is the lower balljoint needs to be 4runner since the tie rod is made for the 4runner ball joint
Hi, what year and model Toyota did you take the CV axles from for this manual hub swap? I want to convert my 98 4Runner as well and want to know what year/gen Tacoma i can get parts from. Is the length of the CV axles different with the ADD and without ADD? I'd appreciate the info you can give me. Thanks for your detailed videos.
no problem. I updated my parts sheet but it's from a 1995-2004 Tacoma without ADD 4WD of course. The lengths are similar. ADD is what you have now and will have an axle nut holding it in. What you want is a Non ADD (without automatic disconnecting differential) with or without ABS (depends if your vehicle has ABS). I used www.car-part.com/index.htm and searched for 1995-2004 tacomas and searched for "Steering Knuckle" and selected w/o automatic disconnecting differential. That's how I found tacomas that had hubs. Sometimes you can buy the manual hubs from those shops listed and have them shipped (they are small). Luckily I was on portland for work and my co-worker drove me there to pick up the hubs. I had the CV's shipped since they didn't fit my suitcase (i wanted to LOL).
@@PhoRunner Thank you for your response. My 98 actually doesn't have ADD as I have a 'J' shifter, no push button for 4wd. Will the CV axles i have work with the manual locking hubs?
@@igorotabatan8963 a J shifter doesn't mean you don't have ADD. If you don't have to lock your hubs manually to get 4x4, it means you have ADD :) . I have a J shifter also in my 4runner. The only thing you will have to worry about is checking if you have ABS spindle or not since you'll want to get one from a tacoma with the same spec (ABS w/o ADD) for example.
Extra long gearwrench ratcheting set. Useful for those lower control arms and extra leverage. I hardly use these so I wouldn’t recommend buying a set as they are pricey. The flex head set is more useful
@@PhoRunner thank you! I’ve been wanting a set of long ones, but with the flex head too. Harbor has a set for $200 but hopefully I can find a cheaper alternative-Brandwise, with quality and $
I’m doing a hub swap bu my 95 tacoma doesn’t come with abs so for the hub I’ll need the abs rotor to take up the space,if you could cans I get the part number?
you will just need the spacer then. 9056052001 #13 on the diagram parts.camelbacktoyota.com/parts/1995/Toyota/Tacoma/SR5/?siteid=214329&vehicleid=84929&diagram=8510205&diagramCallOut=15
Do the CV axles have to come from a Tacoma with manual locking hubs or all any of the Tacoma CV axles work? In trying to know what donor Tacoma i can get them from to work with the manual locking hubs. Thank you
the studs are also available as a kit (comes with the cone washer, flat washer, nut and stud) from Marlin Crawler. even with expedited shipping 12 kits were 87 bucks.
Yeah I was being cheap lol. Couldn’t justify the cost they wanted hehe
@@PhoRunner only reason I can afford it is I recently wrecked my tacoma and insurance money finally came through :D
You are the only person on this lovely place call internet that specifically calls out and shows you taking that lock nut out before pushing out the wheel hub.
The 4WD community really screws the 2WD community at times. What is more interesting is the FSM doesn't even call out to remove that locknut before pressing the hub out
I believe the pn for the cone washers is 4232360010 from Toyota and they're about $7/piece. Just information for anyone looking!
Wow expensive!!
so if you install these you dont need to swap out the entire rear diff?
Are you saying steering knuckle is interchangeable? Can I get a steering knuckle from a 2wd and press in my hub?
Yes. That knuckle I pulled was from a 2wd
Would I have to press the 4x4 hub into the 2wd knuckle that I got from the junk yard or can I just take that dust cover off and CV axle slip right in? I'm not ready to do this upgrade yet I'm asking because my threads stripped on my knuckle for the brake caliper and only the knuckle needs to be replaced.
You would have to press the hub into that knuckle like I show in my video. It’s cheapest and easiest to get a Tacoma knuckle since you can literally just swap it in
Do you get better gas mileage with the hubs unlocked? If so, how much mpg better?. Also what are all the advantages of locking hubs?
Brady Christians 4lo with 2wd, if your axles break, you can unlock it and drive 2wd off trail. Mpg is same lol
Slightly better mpg, because with unlocked hubs the engine isn't having to overcome the inertial mass of the axles to make them spin during acceleration. It's probably a very slight improvement, but will be some improvement.
For my understanding you never did anything to your stock diff tube all means, you can use you axle tube from its original. Pretty much just axle, hub, bearing etc. My question is, why ppl switch the ADD TO NON ADD and what's the reason they do that will benefit. I did hear you said your leaving your ADD and want does it do different from having ADD/NON ADD
My hang up on this project is right here, too. At least, I'm trying to make sense of it, so I can pull the trigger on some parts. I'm sure it's straight-forward, I'm just overloaded with (mis)information so often I've actually taken to asking IN-PERSON, and they are shocked, most tell me I can look it up, cause they don't know, and would likely just look it up themselves. Even though old-school logic might tell you to slap a hose clamp inside the actuator and 'call it a day', just feels wrong. Is it just ignorance on my end? I don't care, keyword here is longevity. I'm motivated enough to do these things myself, so I should while my back and neck will allow. I digress...
For instance, there is (was?) a kit made by ORS (Off Road Solutions) to convert CV axles to accept manual hubs that apparently retained the use of A.D.D.
I'm guessing this is only possible if you are NOT running a front auto locker like Spartan, does that sound correct? The A.D.D. will engage the front axles, thereby engaging the locker if you were to do so on-the-fly, right?
Eliminating ADD just eliminates a potential failure to the 4wd system. It’s not needed any longer since you would have manual hubs and engage manually. You’re basically adding another switch. The ADD system hardly fails but if it did, you have the option of just not fixing it and capping it off, since you have manual hubs.
Hey man, just wanted to say THANKYOU! My new to me T100 had a stripped hub stud on each side which I found when switching to manual hubs. I looked EVERYWHERE to figure out how to replace them and just about gave up until I found your video!
I figured out how to extract the bad stud by using a stripped bolt extractor, however, how do I get a replacement stud out of a donor vehicle without damaging the threads, then how do I install?
Thanks!
Just use the 2 nut method and extract it. I think I show it in the video
Hi I’m doing this mod to my car (97 4runner 4x4) was wondering if it’s plug and play with ADD? Thanks
Yup mine has add still and you can keep ADD if you like
Cool thanks
i've got a 99 4r non locked, and wanna retrofit a oem e locker someday, and a locker up front too since id have to regear both front and rear. im wondering if manual hubs are required for spartan lockers in the front? or will the spartan locker only engage in 4wd?
it is not required but recommended since chance of axle breaking is common. This way you can still drive off the trail without repairing it.
@@PhoRunner ahh i see thanks for the insight
@@MP-ct8mo yeah, the ADD in our trucks allow you to drive it with that front locker in there.
@@PhoRunner so you're saying that with ADD front diff, manual hubs isn't necessary if operating in 2wd and won't make clicking noise when driving in 2wd because the ring and pinion won't be turning?
@@PhoRunner I want to install a lunchbox/aussie locker up front on mine, seeing if it's worth swapping to manual hubs up front. After watching your video, seems like manual hubs isn't needed?
So the 2wd spindle will work but our 4wd won’t? I’m a bit confused. The reason asking is I want to swap mine out but I need the abs
Your 4wd one will work also. Either will work. Just to reduce down time, I built a new one
@@PhoRunner thanks for that info I honestly didn’t know. I’ve passed a few opportunities because they didn’t have abs🤦🏼♂️
You definitely want an abs steering knuckle if you want to keep your abs but 4wd/2wd won’t matter.
Hello! I got a 1996 4runner abs. So youre telling me i can use my stock spindle and just buy a Tacoma Manual hubs and Tacoma Cv axle and everything is plug and play?
My bearings and seals are still good. I need your help bro for this conversion! Anything im missing?
No, you would want the tacoma spindles if you want it to be plug and play.
In the video, I rebuilt my 4runner spindle to be compatible with the tacoma cv and and manual hubs.
@@PhoRunner thanks man! Your 4runner is clean!
Thanks!! Plug and play would be much easier!!!
The hubs allow the front wheels to spin free if the diff so it wouldn't make noise from the spartan u are mistaken .
Yes that’s what I said in my video somewhere. When I asked around, there was a ton of misinformation saying otherwise
@@PhoRunner ikr? I'm doing 2x4 to 4x4 convertion atm and seems like the yota clubs and off road enthusiasts clubs don't got mountains of info as I expected and /or u have to sift through tons of reading materials to get it good thing I'm mechanical and did 2 years of my mechanics apprenticeship @a toyota dealership . Good video thx u answered all my maual hub questions and confirmed my theories . Lol thx good video and thx for taking to to reply 😊
Would an Aisin Manual hub from 1985-1995 4runner/t100 26 spline fit? Im trying to gather around parts for the conversion. Also, the ADD hub, do i need an ADD one? I have button to press on the side of the joystick whenever i need to go 4wd. I don’t know much about ADD. I’m trying to gather parts for the conversion.
Those years won't work for 3rd gen models.
@@PhoRunner Okay. So it only the ones from tacoma then? Does it have to be specific like the FHT-019 ?
@@eddvale2805 yeah only the tacoma hubs will workl on 3rd gen. They share a lot of parts so that's why it works. 2nd gen 4runners are very different from 3rd gen.
@@PhoRunner thanks
Can I get with you about some questions pertaining to a similar conversion I'm making? My Runner is 2nd gen. I got manual hubs but have read nothing else is needed, not even gaskets, because of the static flange I'm converting from... or something...
Likely but not sure. I think some 2nd gens came with manual hubs
Is 2nd gen similar? My front diff is bad and need to replace it your videos are the only ones out there any help is appreciated
i do not believe so. sorry i'm not much help here... I don't own a 2nd gen and haven't worked on it enough. But given there's no strut setup on a 2nd gen, it probably isn't the same.
How thick are the press plates? You say 4x12 but are they .75 or 1 inch thick? Thanks!
1” thick
How have those wheel hubs held up? Been eyeing those since I first watched this video!
Doing great!! No issues yet
So if I buy a complete Tacoma knuckle it would swap right in? Do the Tacoma with the manual locking hubs comes with ABS? My 98 4runner has ABS
I believe they do not. But yes you can swap the whole thing in. The only thing is the lower balljoint needs to be 4runner since the tie rod is made for the 4runner ball joint
No. You'd have to gut the hub out of the knuckle & install into the 4Runner
Good video. Where did you get the press Plates from
Amazon
Will those trd rims fit the 86-95 manual hub? Then wanting those on my 86
probably without the hub cap? I'm not sure. I've never seen these wheels on a 86-95 though...
@@PhoRunner yeah
. Ive never seen it on these gen also... need to see if the cap bore will clear the manual hub on older toyotas
Hi, what year and model Toyota did you take the CV axles from for this manual hub swap? I want to convert my 98 4Runner as well and want to know what year/gen Tacoma i can get parts from. Is the length of the CV axles different with the ADD and without ADD? I'd appreciate the info you can give me. Thanks for your detailed videos.
Hi, could you give me the info I need as to what donor cars i can get the parts i need from?
no problem. I updated my parts sheet but it's from a 1995-2004 Tacoma without ADD 4WD of course. The lengths are similar. ADD is what you have now and will have an axle nut holding it in.
What you want is a Non ADD (without automatic disconnecting differential) with or without ABS (depends if your vehicle has ABS).
I used www.car-part.com/index.htm and searched for 1995-2004 tacomas and searched for "Steering Knuckle" and selected w/o automatic disconnecting differential. That's how I found tacomas that had hubs.
Sometimes you can buy the manual hubs from those shops listed and have them shipped (they are small). Luckily I was on portland for work and my co-worker drove me there to pick up the hubs. I had the CV's shipped since they didn't fit my suitcase (i wanted to LOL).
@@PhoRunner Thank you for your response. My 98 actually doesn't have ADD as I have a 'J' shifter, no push button for 4wd. Will the CV axles i have work with the manual locking hubs?
@@igorotabatan8963 a J shifter doesn't mean you don't have ADD. If you don't have to lock your hubs manually to get 4x4, it means you have ADD :) . I have a J shifter also in my 4runner. The only thing you will have to worry about is checking if you have ABS spindle or not since you'll want to get one from a tacoma with the same spec (ABS w/o ADD) for example.
Excuse my ignorance but isn't ADD controlled by an electronic switch? Or does it automatically get activated when shifting to 4wd with the j shifter?
Hey bro it’s interesting this video, but my question this would to work on my 5th gen too or just for 3th gen?
It will not. The hubs are different and cvs. No 5th gens or tacos came with manual hubs so it’ll be hard to get this to work
@@PhoRunner thank you for this info brotha
Why is the locker only loud in the rear diff?
Because it’s under load and spinning both axles always back there. Up front, the passenger is disconnected until you engage 4wd
Where in Oregon did you source those parts?
Somewhere near Portland. Some auto dismantler place.
What kind of long wrenches are those? 26:25
Extra long gearwrench ratcheting set. Useful for those lower control arms and extra leverage. I hardly use these so I wouldn’t recommend buying a set as they are pricey. The flex head set is more useful
@@PhoRunner thank you! I’ve been wanting a set of long ones, but with the flex head too. Harbor has a set for $200 but hopefully I can find a cheaper alternative-Brandwise, with quality and $
My gears wrench set was $200 or less for the straight ones. The flex head set I can’t remember but I want to say $100
For the life of me I can’t find those c clip pliers you are using. Do you have some info on them to share? Thank you. Again :-)
I'll get you a link in a sec
here you are. I guess it's call a snap ring plier :) amzn.to/303fNEZ
Doesn’t manual locking hubs save the cvs?
Kinda since no grease comes out lol
What did the manual hubs come off of?
Tacoma 95 I believe
I’m doing a hub swap bu my 95 tacoma doesn’t come with abs so for the hub I’ll need the abs rotor to take up the space,if you could cans I get the part number?
you will just need the spacer then. 9056052001 #13 on the diagram parts.camelbacktoyota.com/parts/1995/Toyota/Tacoma/SR5/?siteid=214329&vehicleid=84929&diagram=8510205&diagramCallOut=15
What year Tacoma did those axels come out of?
99
Do the CV axles have to come from a Tacoma with manual locking hubs or all any of the Tacoma CV axles work? In trying to know what donor Tacoma i can get them from to work with the manual locking hubs. Thank you
You didn't waste your money, because now (1) you have 2-Lo, and (2) your front axles don't have to always be spinning, even in 2-Hi. MPG FTW.
good point. 2lo!
Hello my friend I am in Venezuela. Do you have an Email to Make some questions! Many thanks Klaus
Find me on 3rd gen 4runner mafia! Minh Bui