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- Опубликовано: 28 дек 2016
- I test the concept and build a few projects to prove the concept. One project is a small OLED Clock which is synchronized with a NTP server. Another project is a Temperature Meter. Both sketches can be downloaded from IOTappstory.com
Sketches: github.com/SensorsIot/Wemos-S...
Wemos examples: github.com/wemos/D1_mini_Exam...
IOTappstory.com: IOTappStory.com
Sources:
wemoscc.aliexpress.com/store/...
www.aliexpress.com/store/2138...
www.aliexpress.com/store/4399...
If you want to support the channel and buy from Banggood: bit.ly/2jAQEf4 (no additional charges for you)
/ andreas-spiess-7331894...
/ spiessa 
Наука
You are my king! Every video is about things I like and questions i have without me asking,
Thank you!
You're welcome. This is probably the nicest compliment so far!
I just want to say hello from Vancouver, BC . I want to deeply thank you for making these videos. I love playing with electronics and also want to teach my young kids. I have learned SO much from your videos in such a short period of time. Your videos are very well produced and super detailed. Thank you again. Tom from Vancouver, BC
You are welcome. Thank you for this feedback. It keeps me going :-)
This is my favourite video so far. I love your enthusiasm. Keep making more of these great videos please.
Thank you for your feedback. Just reached 30'000 subscribers. So, I plan to continue till 100'000 ;-)
Loved the switch between clock and temperature sensor.
Me too ;-)
Another amazing Swiss-ly accurate, informative, and entertaining video.Well done, Andreas!
Thanks!
Hi Andreas, as always thanks for sharing. It's good timing as the other day I ordered a few wemos minis and a few shields, looking forward to working with them
So, I hope, you will enjoy them as I did.
Thanks for another interesting video. Excellent close up camera work, always in focus and with good lighting. I look forward to your video posts and enjoy hearing the detailed technical explanations. I am pleased to support your channel.
+Greg Belcher You are welcome. Over Christmas I trippled light on my desk. This helps a lot...
I used to absolutely HATE dupont connectors, but then I ordered the crimping tool you recommended, and voila! Dupont connectors are now my go-to solution for most things, including things where I want to be able to replace thru-hole LEDs without soldering. So, for that (too!): thanks a lot!
You're welcome! Good things shall succeed...
Thanks for the compatibility table, saved me lots of time. Don't forget that these shields are breadboard friendly which is always useful :)
Thanks for the tip!
Got me hooked. Ordered some before your video was over. Thanks for the review.
:-)
I have several Wemos d1 mini and pro and some shields. They are great and using them are straight forward. Good video!
Thanks!
WOW. WOW. WOW. SPOT ON!!!! Sorry for shouting but your content, production and delivery in this video is your best to date. Amazing video Andreas.
Thanks for your compliment. Probably I was a little more "enlightened", because I trippled my light on my workbench over Christmas ;-)
Awesome overview, I really starting to love these boards!
:-)
Great video. I purchased a kit with most of those shields for my dad for Christmas. Thanks for the excellent overview.
I am sure, he will like them... Thanks for the comment!
The thanks really goes to you!! Great instructional content like yours combined with cheap kits from china have made electronics so much more accessible.
:-)
1:51
"A female with long legs which can be used as a male on the other side"
Great quote
Thank you!
omg what a great video, simply PERFECT
+darktermi1993 :-)
I already have enough ESPs, but after seeing your video, I'm going to have to get MORE! Thanks Andreas! LOL I guess it's ok, I don't have any Wemos yet. Thanks for another great video Andreas!
You never have enough ESP's ;-)
Hi Hari! Still playing sudoku? We miss new videos! :D
Hi Squalazzo! :D I've been busy with work and the holidays. I've done some brainstorming and research on new projects, but nothing worth sharing yet. Good to be missed. Thanks!
Thank you Andreas for another awesome video. I bought WeMos D1 Mini from the AliExpress source that you mentioned in one of your video. Now I am thinking to buy some of the shields that you have mentioned in this video and try to make something useful out of them. OLED display and that button with LED can be very useful for any project.
Small precision: The button shield has no LED. This was only my DIY button...
Andreas Spiess , can you please share a link where to buy it? Preferably, Aliexpress or Banggood. Thank you.
I added the links
Andreas Spiess , thank you very much.
Great video, as always!
:-)
Very interesting, as usual!
Thanks!
excellent video, concept and application !!
+Jonas Hansen Thanks!
Good points as usual. Happy New year everybody :-)
Happy New year to you, too!
Thanks, it is exactly what I need!
:-)
The biggest advantage of the mini pro is you can re-locate the 0 ohm away from the ceramic antenna and use the IDX for an external +16dB amplified antenna yielding 1000 omni directional meters distance.
You are right about the antenna. Did you check the 1000m? Which device did you use on the oposite side?
Thanks Andreas - great video! Those WeMos shields look good and at a great price :) Just ordered a few different ones on ebay
:-)
Nice video once more! I like all the references you give and also like to see how your various videos tie together. Wish you all the best and much success and happiness in the new year!
Some ideas for new prototype shields:
1. use dipswitches or jumperpins to select pin connections for more compactness (you only need to select non-conflicting pins).
2. make an audio shield containing a buzzer and/or loudspeaker, using jumper pins to select buzzer or speaker connector.
3. make an i2c multi-i/o shield using the pcf8274 for having more pins (cheap pcfs can be found on the lcd-backpack modules, pcf class to easily switch pins is on the playground)
4. make a compact led-matrix shield using a max7219 module to show scrolling text
Have fun!
Good ideas for the shields. Especially the pcf8274 would be interesting! And the buzzer is a "must". Dipswitches, of course would be the better choice, but add a few cents to the bill of material of our Chinese friends...
I also wish you all the best in the next year. Thanks for your support! Your melody plays now more frequently (probably over Christmas, people have more time for RUclips).
Absolutely brilliant video Andreas, These Wemos modules seem to make it almost too easy :D il be grabbing a set.
:-)
Grüezi Andreas,
I have been watching your channel for very long time, and you had a major impact on me starting to tinker with ESP8266, namely Wemos D1 and its shields.
I have started an MQTT Temperature logger project - using Wemos D1 mini + DTH22 shield, placed side-by-side in wemos dual socket shield.
For some reason, my readings from DHT22 are around 2C off, when the shield is in dual socket base. When I move it further from ESP, it starts reading accurate measurements.
I have had this problem since beginning. Originally I had my DHT on top of ESP (I thought, that heat from esp chip is rising into DHT), so I moved it to the side. Readings were still the same, inaccurate (this time I thought, that heat is transfered via pin headers between boards). So I introduced deep sleep in my algorithm - I start the ESP, measure temperature, connect wifi, send mqtt message and sleep for 10 minutes. Both boards are bare, without any enclosures.
Only thing which seem to remedy this issue, is to move the dht sensor away - connecting using dupont cables.
That made me think, that problem could be wifi interference of esp, so I swapped the dht for SHT30 and I experienced the same - whenever the sensor is next to esp, it reads around 2C warmer, than it really is (confirmed by bunch of other thermometers in my room).
Do you have an idea, what could be the culprit of the issue?
Thank you, and wish you all the best! Keep up the great work and content :)
Peter
Remote diagnostics is not easy. I would start with the simplest sketch without Wi-Fi and nothing. If it still does not work you can once measure if there is still current (energy) flowing during deep-sleep. And extend the deep-sleep for an hour and measure right after wake-up.Like that you will find out if it is because of Wi-Fi or another source.
I also love this concept ! Just 1 problem with the temperature sensors : as the ESP heats up, the temperature of the sensor is about 2°C higher as the real temperature. I tried to avoid this with some insulation, but it appears that the heat is transferred through the pins. Another interesting feature : you can use this as a ftp-server, with 3 Mb storage. I use this as serial logger. Great channel !
1. Temperature: I did not concentrate on this aspect, but saw, that it indicated quite high values. So, that is the explanation
2.FTP server: Could you share the sketch? Seems to be interesting...
The basic idea was found here : www.esp8266.com/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=7655
With the SD-card shield, you have off course much more space to log, but I didn't try that yet. (SD-Shield is on its way).
Thanks!
Hi. You make something to solve this 2°C higher?? Thanks!
Intersting vid! Happy new year!
Happy New Year to you, too!
An interesting video indeed. I think I'll buy a couple of boards and shields.
:-)
Great video. I ran into the same problem of the duplicate pins on the wemos shields. Now I simply cut the trace on the shield (d1/d2) and add a bodge wire to an available pin (d3). FYI wemos also has a button shield.
To cut the traces is the "last resort"... But a good idea...
I knew, that they have a button. But when I ordered the shields, I thought, I do not need one...
Thanks Andreas.
You are welcome!
Great video. I wish I had the time to work on my toys.
I have my family phase behind me and was able to change priorities. So, it was not always like that...
Great video !
:-)
I'd be interested in knowing your thoughts on the D1 Mini Pro, specifically if the ceramic antenna (or external option) is worthwhile. Thank you for your frequency of videos, even through the holidays! Keeps me going! :)
Kept me also going, because in parallel I had to support the first users of IOTappStory.com...
If you need an external antenna, the pro is a good choice. I think, it is the only NodeMCU compatible with this feature.
The ceramic antenna should be similar than the PCB antenna (similar size, and I hope, well adapted to the chip)
Very nice Andreas, you must have bought all available shields!
No, I did not buy the button shield... And I saw, that there is a new SHT30 Temperature/pressure sensor out.
that button on the shield connects GND to D3, might be a good addition to your pin config table. Great presentation, @Andreas Spiess
Very nice!
Thank you!
I have a few of those shields (and a lot of Wemos D1 minis). The only problem I had with the battery shield is that the inductor on it is prone to breaking during transit and that the connector is a little backwards (i.e. when ordering the same type of battery connectors, + and - are reversed compared to the battery shield). The DHT11 and DHT22 shields have the problem of getting hotter than the environment truly is because of the Wemos warming things up (especially the linear regulator on it). But on the whole these shields are great for beginners because there is only little soldering required and you don't have to design your own shield (what I did by the way :D!).
TL;DR: Be careful with the battery shield, temperatures are of because of IC heat influence, shields are great for beginners!
Thanks for the insight. I think, you would anyway put the temperature sensor as far away as possible rom heat sources. But I agree, this is not easy with the small shields.
Concerning the inductor: I think, it will get a blop of hot glue on its head...
Hi Andreas, don't forget there is an SHT30-D temperature and humidity sensor board/shield. Also I am using the D1 Mini Pro with the full flash memory, there is a new boards file that enables this on GitHub.
+G6EJD I saw the SHT-30-D today, when I ordered more Proto Shields. It was not available, wen I ordered my shields. Can you please provide a link to the board definition file?
What kind of sketches use this vast amount of memory?
boards.txt link is here: github.com/WereCatf/Arduino/blob/WemosD1MiniPro/boards.txt You can also use much larger SPIFFS storage. Yes broaching the 4M limit would be a huge sketch, so 16M would be a serious project :)
Thanks for the link! Ill try it.
2:18 Mini Pro has antenna connector! Useful when router is behind a concrete wall or need distance.
True!
Hello Andreas! Your videos are like good book which you choose it whenever you need it so i've found this :-) Which flux do you using? I saw it at 4:56 in video. And doy you have any experience with soldering paste? Thank you!
Thanks for your nice words!I once bought a bottle of Kester flux (I think, the real one...) on ebay from Israel (!)
Yes, I use soldering paste for my SMD work if I use the Reflow Oven. I use the cheap Chinese one. But it gets hard quite fast. So, I have to throw away at least 90% and buy a new one from time to time
nice! thanks!
:-)
if a want to use 2 relay modules, do i have to cut the data trace of one of them and solder it to another pin?
Yes
Here's a trick to unsolder the pin headers:
1.use a utility knife and carefully pry open the plastic seat of the header;
2.continue prying until the plastic seat is removed;
3.use a soldering iron and apply heat on the pad;
4.with the solder melting, hold the pcb and quickly strike against the table;
5.now you have a clean pad :P
downsides of this method:
1.if you are not being careful, you could cut yourself, or scratch the the pad.
2.it is likely that you can't reuse the header
Thanks for your tip! And these days, headers are cheap. So, that is no issue, I think.
thank you for another great video :) I've been playing a lot with the D1 mini and still waiting for v2 to arrive (not to be confused with R2). the only thing i don't like is the deep sleep.. its uses about 170 uA, way too much. i blame the LDO, dont know why they didn't use something like the ht7333.
I think, it is not the LDO, because they use a RT9013 which is probably even better than the HT7333. It is probably the CH340. I never use NodeMCU compatible boards if I want to save power. I use bare ESP-12Es
Thank you for an awesome video. Have you ever used the Wemos D1 R2. I using it at the moment wit a DTH 11, reporting humidity and temperature a local mqtt server. Happy new year from South Africa
You're welcome. If you mean the "Arduino compatible" board, I had it in my test, but did not like it very much (video #41). But if it works for you, it's ok...
Happy New Year to you, too!
Hello Andrew, I have another question about the Wemos Relay Shield. I notice that the tracks between low-voltage input part and output power unit are very close together. The mains voltage in my house can be up to 244VRMS (345VPP) without considering any harmonics. Is this module safe to use with such a high voltage? Thank you for your answer.
I would never use these boards for more than 12 volts. They are not made for more.
Andreas. I have a Wemos D1 mini installed inside an aluminum box. It does not get any signal from my Raspberry Pi Zero W as an access point. I even took the top of the project box off thinking some signal will reach the Wemos. No luck.. I just ordered a Wemos mini Pro and antenna. Do you have any suggestions for good signal reception? Should I start thinking about a plastic project box instead? Thanks.
If you mount the antenna outside of the box it will work, also with an aluminum box.
Great video, thank you.
Did you put the shield compatibility matrix somewhere other than in the video, also?
Do you suggest to avoid buying the old revision mini D1, that with the "reset" sign written horizontally?
So far, I did not experience big differences between the two versions. What problems did you have with revision 1?
Matrix is on Github now.
Andreas Spiess thank you for the matrix. I'm still waiting my first mini D1 delivery, and because the difference between revisions was not that clear I ordered the newest ones: my question was about the revision 1 are interesting because they are cheaper :-)
Hello Andreas,
I like your videos very much! Regarding the relay shield: I've got one from robotdyn.com (via AliExpress) and this one has soldering bridges from D0 to D8 on the bottom which makes it extremely flexible.
Keep on the great (video) work!!
That is for sure a good idea!
Thanks for the great video. One thing that I really like about the mini is the very fast
upload speed of 921600 baud with the Arduino IDE. It would be nice if you could do
a range test video with the mini pro using an external antenna.
This is true for all other boards I use. But it is not completely stable. For me, this is the standard. I am too old to wait...
I'm 63 years young and don't like waiting either...lol. Your videos and the WeMos boards
have really added more fun to my hobby....thank you.
You're welcome. You are only three years ahead...
Now we know your preferences, female with long legs, pins of course. ;-)
Andreas, do you ever rest ? Please take it easy, we want you to be with us for a long time.
Happy New Year to you and continue you good work.
I am just a humble male...
This week was a bit busy. You see the fact it, that the Thursday video was late. So many interesting projects.
I also wish you a happy 2017! Thanks for your support.
You should try MicroPython on it, I love it.
It's really nice to have a quick prototyping language on a prototyping board.
I think, I will forst try it on the LoPy because there, I can also do something in the direction of LoRa. So, I can
kill two birds with one stone...
Andreas Spiess same idea here 😊 unfortunately so far lopy is very very alpha and I have doubts it will be usefull in 6 months from now
So, maybe I have to revise my plans...
Aren't you pretty much describing 95% of all crowdfunded projects when you say "very alpha" and buggy.
I think that dual and triple base for the D1 mini is super awesome, it helps a lot for most projects, I love it not only for shields but even for soldering my components on it.
Is there something like this even for ESP32?
I think you find a compatibe board for the ESP32. But I never tried it.
Andreas hello! I've been watching your channel for a long time. Great videos! I would like to add some informations about wemos (we have been using it for a months). The wemos itself is very limited if you try to run more than one sensors at the same type at a time. Not every port runs every sensor. For example DHT's work only on three ports D2-3-4 at 3.3 or 5V. But DS only works at D6 if you run it at 3.3V if you run it on 5V it works on D7 also.
Great module but there are lots of things still have to be developed. Even Arduino platform is much more robust and reliable than wemos unfortunately.
Thanks for the tips. Do you talk about the Wemos Mini? They are not much different from all ESP boards, because all use the same ESP-12E module. All are 3.3 volt. If you use 5V devices on ESP input pins without a level shifter, you are out of specification of the ESP8266, and each module might behave a little different. And some may even be destroyed, if you are unlucky. If you use 5 volt devices on output pins, also the behavior is not exactly foreseeable. Some parts interpret 3 volt as "high" and are ok, some not and behave strange. Usually, you find this information in the data sheets.
Hi Andreas, I got most of the shields, think I need that proto board shield. I know sadly that relay shield won't go with oled shield, I thought why not break the track of the relay shield and put it on D3 or D4 OR even better one, using a relay shield as a I2C (can be done with ATTINY85 as I2C slave)... any thought?
The idea to have more shields connected through I2C is for sure good. But maybe too expensive for the manufacturer. And in addition, you lose the library support (not for the relay, of course)...
I did an ATTiny slave for ultrasonic sensors (video #42)
I like those females with long legs :) Awesome video as always. Merry Christmas and lots of views and brain teasing projects for this channel for 2017!!
I thought about your first one, but decided to stay "politically correct"... I also wish you a happy new year. I hope, we will go on in 2017 as we went in 2016. Maybe a little faster ;-)
Ha Ha, cute thumbs up!....PEACE
do you also have a sketch of :
wemos D1 with relay and temperature sensor. that when it reaches X degrees Celsius the relay opens allowing for example a fan to be powered.
another question does the wemos d1 mini run on 3.3 volt or 5 volt, since there is much conflicting information.
i want to build my own radiator fan from a wemos d1 mini. {stand alone or wifi based is fine with me}
like a master slave configuration with 1 wifi based arduino as the master and the others as a slave that runs the command when told it has to run it
No.
Hallo Andreas.
Weißt du noch, woher die Taster mit LED stammen? Gab es da welche mit höherer Tastachse?
Hi Andreas.
Do you still know where the buttons come from? Were there some with a higher sensing axis?
(Google Translation, cause i don't know the Translation for "Tastachse" :)
Gruß Fred
Da mehrere danach gefragt haben werde ich sie im nächsten Mailbag (mit Bezugsquelle) bringen
Danke.
Solved: to get the relay to work on a different PIN number, remove the header pin from D1, so it doesn’t interfere with serial communication, then solder a wire between relay D1 and relay D3.
Thanks for the tip!
Is it possible to add an emitter (on a meter wire) to the Wemos IR shield so it (the D1Mini and shield) can be hidden away and the emitter directly attached to a TV for example?
You have to try. I do not know
Hello Andreas, I wanna a know one does the wemos battery shield has the over drain protect circuit with in it. Just like TP4056
It stops loading when the battery is fully charged
Bro Am asking what happened if the battery go below 2.5 v while discharge . Will the output stops or it still goes low until zero
I checked now. No, it did not stop. I measured 1.5 Volt after the Wemos switched off.
Ho I see which means that there is no protection circuit in it like TP4056. Thanks for your information
Hello Sir! Can you please provide me the link from where you have ordered your Wemos D1 minis from Aliexpress? Thanks!
You find it in the comment
Hello Andreas, a question for you as a very skilled engineer: Can one DHT22 and several DS18B20´s be used on only one Wemos D1 mini? Can you refer to such a project? Thanks for your support.
I do not know if this is possible. They use different libraries and they should not hurt each other. But you never know before you tried. Here is a link for multiple DS18B20: www.hackster.io/adachsoft_com/esp8266-temperature-sensors-ds18b20-with-http-server-5509ac
Ein kleiner Unterschied zwischen dem Mini und Mini Pro ist natürlich noch die Anschlussmöglichkeit für eine externe Antenne.
Was ist das für ein Button auf dem Prototyp Shield?
Die Antenne hatte ich als Unterschied unterschlagen. Mea Culpa.
Es haben schon einige danach gefragt. Deshalb wir er im nächsten Mailbag seinen Auftritt haben...
+Andreas Spiess Der Taster, natürlich
Hi Andreas , Thanks for your great video's, they've thought me a great deal. Concerning this specific video I have some remarks and a question: One slight advantage the D1 mini Pro does have over the 'regular' one, is that it has an external antenna connector, which might be handy if Wifi reception is poor. I also read (but not verified myself) that the built in ceramic antenna of the pro is by itself already better as the PCB antenna found on the regular ones. Next remark is the battery shield, As others have mentioned, it is really not a good solution for any battery powered project, the voltage is boosted from 3.7v of the LiPo cell to 5V, and then converted back to 3.3V for the ESP8266, this wastes a lot of power.
Now for my question: You've mentioned in the comments that you don't think the wemos boards are a good option to use as a finished product on battery operated projects, becuase of the serial chip which is always powered, and the low efficiency regulator. What about using the wemos boards, but instead of feeding them 5V, just feed them 3.3V on the 3.3V pins, this would eliminate the serial chip and inefficient regulator.
I'm thinking about doing a project with the wemos board powered by a LiFePo4 cell without regulator directly to the 3.3V pin.
Thanks again and keep up the good work!
1. Concerning atenna plug: You are right, I forgot this one.
2. You are right with the power waist of the Wemos shield. But if you just want to bridge a few hours, It is still a good thing. Of course, not for battery only devices.
3. Wemos on 3.3v: I did not test it because I see no use case for this. I just take an ESP-12 with a white PCB (with or without good LDO) as shown in some of my videos. I can imagine, that the Wemos still needs more current, even if you do not power a few chips, because they are still connected, but I do not know.
Thanks for your reply. I have ordered an ESP-12 with a white PCB breakout and I'll to some tests with this one vs the Wemos on 3.3v.
:-)
Good day Andreas. I'm trying to find the pushbutton with LED for this Wemos project, was it in a mailbag that I might have missed?
+Scott E no. It will be in the next because you are not the only who asked.
Thank you!
Hello Andreas! Would you be able to share the schematics for your Wimos D1 mini Flash Button? A picture or a Fritzing image maybe?
heres a tip: I soldered the short female headers to the bottom side, and used that to glue it down to a board
Thanks for the tip. Yo will see another possibility in the next Mailbag.
Just launched my sprinkler system based on temp and moisture. Only puzzle is why does it show up on my LAN? I didn't place any code for it to contact DHCP for network info. Tried connecting to it via SSH but refused any ideas or videos you can point me to.
1. ESP8266 tend to keep the Wi-Fi credentials stored
2. I do not know if ESPs can do SSH. For sure not without you programming it
Thank you Andreas, all my google search combinations yielded nothing. Copied and pasted your answers and found info on the prom. Very Helpful again thank you.
Great video as usual!
I like shields, but I think it is always better to consider the alternatives.
For example, a bare DS18B20 (TO-92) with one 4.7K resistor is very compact and can be connected to any pin....
The same for a common relay shield: it can be connected to any pin.
So, the alternative to pre-built shields is to customize your own shields with a bare Wemos D1 mini.
Do you agree?
That is why I ordered a few more Proto Shields. I think, the idea of shields is good, but, as you write, they are sometimes so simple, that you can build your own. On the other hand, they are really cheap...
I am anyway not in "weather stations". Too many are built from all other people...
Maybe I should start a "Shield competition amongst my viewers...
Personally, I do not like competitions...
I like good examples and thorough explanations....
This is why I like your channel so much!
I meant it exactly in your sense. I also hate competition in the hobby field. We have enough competition in business....
Hi Andreas,
do you have the Shields Compatibility List (2:59) somewhere as PDF to Download?
Thanks
Philipp
perfect. Thanks!
+Philipp Kolmann :-)
SEHR GUT !!
Dinge an Rande
- D3 / D4 sind für i2c auch geeignet - so kann man einige Shields direkt aufstecken ( zB. BMP280 ),
- kann es sein das der "Schweitzer Uhr etwas wesentliches fehlt ? - die entscheidende "Sekunde" : - )
Die Lib. fürs Display kannte ich noch nicht also wieder was zum "spielen" .....
so und nun:
Besten Dank für deine hervorragenden Filme und Information ( auch wenn sie dann direkt meine Bastel-Börse erleichtern : - ) )
weiter so im Jahr 2017
einen guten Rutsch ins Jahr 2017 und ein gutes Jahr 2017
Gruss aus Bayern
Wie meinst du das mit den Shields direkt aufstecken? Meine waren fix auf D1/2 verdrahtet.
Die Sekunde sind wir immer hinterher. Aber wenigstens konstant!
Ebenfalls einen guten Rutsch und ein gutes 2017 für dich. Danke für deine Interaktionen. Das macht RUclipsn erst zu dem, was es ist.
ok, schlecht ausgedrückt..
man kann dann zb BMP280, sht21... direkt auf den wemos aufstecken. macht die sache halt noch etwas kompakter ( sind aber genaugenommen keine "basis-shields)
der dht11 ist am wemos nicht langzeitstabil, auch nicht wenn man den parameter "cpu-geschwindigkeit" in beim "ini" nutzt und diesen auf ca 20000 ( glaube in dem bereich war es )
ach: klar das die sekunden hinten sind ... aber es fehlt die "schweizer-pause" so wie du es mal in einem filmchen sagtest ...
kleine warnung am rande wenn man nicht das original nimmt ( aus eigener erfahrung ): manche "wemos", haben einen defekten/falsche usb chip verbaut .. da hilft dann nur das programmieren über rs232 und dann OTA...
happy hacking
Hello Andreas,
have you experienced DHT22/SHT30 warming up by RF? I noticed both temp sensors show around ~2-4C more than actual temperature in my room. When I connect them via dupont wires and move away from esp they are accurate. Moved them closer to esp (still connected on dupont wires) and they are showing higher temp once again.
Any idea why this is happening, how to fix?
I do not think it is RF. I think it is just air.
@@AndreasSpiess thanks for reply. I still cannot imagine, how would the warm air get to the sensor. I have d1mini and dht22 shield side by side on dual base. I tried putting a "wall" mad e of styrofoam between them and the results are very same. Could be the dht be faulty, perhaps? Do you have any reccomendation for good source for dhts?
I know that the DHTs do not work properly in these Wemos setups. Maybe you put the sensor 20 cm apart and test again. If you have the same effect I would try another one. They are not very precise, however (see the datasheet)
Shield layout control pins for esp8266 board, lol i will use a Trace cutter and a soldering iron to move the relay from D1 to D3 instead = pinMode , will use Ic2 scanner to move the DHT-11 D4 to D2 Data when i get the address,, ect ect, with other's, To Free up D Lines !
Thank you for your tips. I think it is the only way to go if you want to use "incompatible" shields.
which episode is about the led button? led button is a neat idea...
+youlian troyanov There is no video. Maybe I present it in my next mailbag
Andreas Spiess please do
I have the Battery Shield. A cute little thing but I advise against buying it for any serious use. It is rather inefficient. Also, the Wemos D1 mini is not the most efficient to use with batteries due to the CH340 always being connected.
Having said that... ofcourse it is great to develop stuff
If I want to save energy, I use special LDOs and ESP-12E modules. I made a few videos concerning this topic. Wemos or nodeMCU are great for development and for connected (to power) systems.
Fully agree, I use an RT9013 LDO with an ESP-12F for battery fed stuff and use the Wemos for everything else.
i just thought I'd give a caution to people maybe thinking the battery shield was a solution for them
+Ed19601 Here you are absolutely right. Many viewers try batteries and Wemos and are disappointed...
For people who are interested. I made a graph: arduinodiy.files.wordpress.com/2017/01/vbat.png
Wemos D1 mini stops working when the battery attached to shield is 3.5 Volt. Shield will only charge the battery to 4.05 Volt. Done 3 tests, all same results
GOOD
+Vitaliy1669 :-)
Hi Andreas, Im a bit on the blond side.......as this is just a hobby with not many time on my hands, if I want to use a motion sensor , it's pin D2 and D4? Thanks for the great videos. Update on the A7,as you mention you have not done a project, really struggling when batteries are used,the GPS fix point is not correct
I think, you can connect he motion sensor to any D pin (if it only provides a digital signal, except D3).
Thanks for the feedback concerning the A7
I’m try to learn Micro Python. I was wondering if you had any experience with micro Python and a MQTT publish script?
I never did MQTT with Micropython. But on the ESP32 it should be possible. Just ask Google (no links allowed on RUclips anymore)
Hi, how can i tweet from one of this?
As with every other ESP8266 board. Google is your friend ;-)
As usually your video is very entertaining and educational, but this video made me wonder, if you have tried to make 2 or more ESP devises communicate via Wi-Fi with each other?
Thanks for the nice words. I did a connection of two or more ESPs in video #97.
how does low temperature (lets say up to -20C) affect battery ? does anything other than capacity changes ? I want to build small weather sensor with little solar panel to keep battery charged but I'm afraid it might get damaged during winter
Kanapka Z Pasztetem You can't charge Li Ion if the temperature is below 0°C. Use 2-3 18650 cells, deep sleep and BME280 sensor.
The battery should last over one year.
It would depend on the battery, but in general it will just affect the capacity. For this reason oversize the battery for your application. Here is a link to samsung's datasheet for one of their 18650 (Lithium Ion) batteries www.powerstream.com/p/INR18650-25R-datasheet.pdf
Paul Martin The cell you linked is a 18650 with 25A max discharge rate. He can use old 18650s from notebook batteries. For the voltage regulator use the HT7333 and add a big capacitor. Li Ion has no problems with cold weather , it is the best cell chemestry for low temperatures.
You mentioned nothing about your current draw requirements.
Lithium batteries (not L-ION) are best in extreme cold. They are not rechargeable, and expensive, but used a lot on high endurance devices For a weather station, what do you record? Temperature, light, humidity, or anything that can be updated every minute or so. is easily done with any battery. Your processor wakes up, takes the readings, and goes to sleep. We are in the Micro amp ranges.
You have to power everything from the processor, and use transistor switches if the current draw of your other devices (Transmitter, humidity sensor,...) are more than 20 mA each. Bearing in mind, that the total power dissipation of these chips are usually around 200mA for the entire chip.
However, if you are monitoring wind speeds, by monitoring the pulses the anemometer generates, you have to keep the processor running most of the time, even by using input capture hardware. Now you are in a different category of Milli-amps-ville.
If the anemometer generates a dc voltage, you are OK. Since you can awake the processor and read the ADC. Then go back to bed.
But if you have to monitor something 24/7, you need a big ass battery, and even a bigger ass solar panel.
Lot of ifs.
yes, I didn't read the datasheet carefully. It seems it was a high current 18650, not the long life ones i had in mind. Also, unfortunately, the temperature on their graph does not go below zero.
So I signed up for IOTappStory and found the project and it says... "Closed Source". Really? What's up with that. Cannot get the source to compile. Can't even look at it. That's not helpful! Where is the source available from?
The backend is closed source, the library is on GitHub.
Years back (1998-9), when PICs where the "Micro-controller of the day", DonTronics of Australia, was selling the same concept as today's "Shields", using SIMM sockets. I don't know why some people are not coming out with shields for the 8266-12E/F in that footprint? Not from lack of pins I am sure?
Wemos has only 1 analog pin, but what I loved about it when I ordered one last year, was that each pin (except one, are capable of doings everything else on hardware level (I2C, SPI, PWM,etc..).! I don't know to what extent that is true, since I never used it or thought about it, till now.
I think it's a very unique chip if that is in fact true, without the usual bullshit "Gotchas".
One can't do much without a lot of I/O (hence the Mega256), I thought it would be a good port extender (I2C to whatever and vise versa) that could bring extensibility to "none-wifi" projects needing port and wifi extensions.
For example one could be used to serve as an I2C server. Where it occupies only one I2C address, but can control at least 4 other I2C devices of any address. That would be a very useful "Shield" :)
Propeller from Parallax, is too power hungry for battery operations, as are FPGAs.
After looking at the schematic, its a ESP826612F !! so the I/O functions I mentioned, are bit-banged, which is not a big deal. I thought they had a different chip-set on them that used hardware not software.
Also, I noticed they use an RT9013 which is an excellent regulator with a standby quiescent current of only 25uA, and mine uses an FS1117 which is a crap battery hog at 5mA. So watch-out for the Chinese slide of hand.
My bad...
I discovered the RT9013 also with the Wemos, because it had a better regulation of the peaks. So I ordered a few...
I usually desolder voltage regulators and chuck them in garbage. Specially if they are the 7805 variety.
One good regulator is all I've need to power the whole project. The rest of the shields, are feed +5v directly.
This RT9013 looks like a keeper.
I hope, I can do a comparison sometimes in 2017
Had a bunch of those arrive in my mail today. Pretty good but also pretty darned small. My eyes are getting too aged. Oh well, I managed with the AP2112 as well
I would appreciate an ethernet shield.
Thanks for this overview :-)
You're welcome. Why an Ethernet shield for a device with WiFi?
Why not, if the ethernet infrastructure is available? I am also not sure, if wifi would work in the basement.
By now, a Arduino Uno does its work down there via Ethernetshield and passes measured values via MQTT into Openhab.
And it would be better to hide anywhere with the Wemos size.
Aha.
I put a example home/garage with WeMs here : github.com/i4things/NodeAPI/tree/master/examples/WEMOS/Garage/thing
Thank you for your link!
@@AndreasSpiess Small video how it works.. ruclips.net/video/Af5xDAGKDLc/видео.html
The W of the Wemos symbol looks rather ... hmm ... Naughty ;)
Fantasy is everything ;-)
Could you please share the PIR sensor Project details Sir? Is Wemos Battery Shield v1.1 is good enough to use it for Long term operation. Is it suitable for low Current operation?Thanks for all information. Love your videos. Could we make a good 18650 battery solution board as a community and support the Development with funds maybe...
I changed to Zigbee PIR sensors because they need much less power and run on batteries.
@@AndreasSpiess in order to use zigbee devices with home asistant I think I need a Zigbee Bridge right Sir?
Yes
Wemos mini Pro Esp8266 / 2 Dallas-DS18B20 / ic2 .96'' Oled / Dht-11 Hum-Temp. & Leds outputs as confidence on D6,D7,D8. All tied together working, all done in 1 day, Next Is, to get same data report to, Over WiFi to my phone,, will take much more work yet !! I still Expect to use ic2 scanner to find address of data shield and move pins to Just D1 & D2, to free up D lines, hope it works out.. BYE for Now ...
Könnte ich das STL.File für das Gehäuse bekommen?Im .thingiverse finde ich nichts passendesLieben Gruß aus Hessen.
Wo gibt's denn in diesem Video etwas 3D Gedrucktes?
Am Anfang Sekunde 18 bis 24, Gehäuse für Sender.
Nice video. However the modules are rather exclusive development boards. The "D1 mini Pro" will never pass FC certification in this shape. It misses the metalic cover just a short & fast observation.
It means that they cannot be used outside the hobby area.
The "Mini" is also discontinued and only the mini Pro is now available to be bought.....
I mentioned the missing FCC cert of the pro. And I recently bought 10 original minis (www.aliexpress.com/item/D1-mini-Mini-NodeMcu-4M-bytes-Lua-WIFI-Internet-of-Things-development-board-based-ESP8266/32529101036.html). So, I do not know of a discontinuation. And then, you get many knock-offs of the minis from other suppliers.
Hallo Andreas,
Ich habe der Link geöffnet..allerdings "0 stück available"....
Trotzdem, danke für die schnelle Antwort.
Beste Grüße,
George
Vielleicht eher ausverkauft als nicht mehr produziert. Diese Dinger laufen wie "geschnitten Brot"
you Swiss like Chevy in the usa,, lol,, you not have race car,, but you are cool !
Did not know that. Thanks!
I think the Wemos D1 mini is still one of the best implementation of the ESP8266. In the US you can get the board from eBay goo.gl/5D0xMN for not much more and very fast shipping.
Thanks for the tip!
:-) Swiss and time ... hehe
:-)
and yet, no RTC or GPS shields :(
RTC is probably not so important because you can use NTP service on the internet...
I need use a i2c screen and relay.... but not can used both?
You see it in the sheet at 2:51. The use the same pin.
i really really hate this arduino born idea of calling the shields, they are if anything daughterboards, shields /protect/, these protect against nothing, therefore can not be shields.....
If arduino spent more time fixing its ide so it didnt produce bloated code they would help a lot
You are right. But I think, this is true for some other words in all languages...
A female with long leggs! Used as a male on the other side!!! No I'm not into that!