Lots of useful information in this video!!! Thanks!! I’d love to see a video on mainspring barrel arbor hook repair!! I am new to clock repair, no formal training. But I’m doing what I can within the scope of my abilities. Watching videos like this, is great for us newbies. I want to do things the proper way, and not half arsed. Thanks again!!
Once again many thanks for the wonderful video of re bushing the Mainspring Barrels,I really love the care you take to achieve the necessary accuracy of arbor pivots and bushings, I am impressed with those lovely machines. Jim from AUSTRALIA.
Brings me back to bushing mainspring barrels, we used to use soft lead soilder to secure the bush in the main spring barrel. My master was strict, good and fair.
when I clean up the spring barrel hole, I always put the spring barrel cover on so that the reamer always clears the hole perpendicular. then the bearing is not skewed in the spring barrel. great project you have there. thank you for sharing it with us. PS, also before I riveting the bush in, without adding loctite, I countersink the hole slightly with the roller sinker.
I like Chris's internal gauge, great idea... but I think it could be improved by slitting the outer end of each bush, adding a tapered pipe thread at each end, with a wing-nut to lock it into position. That way you need not worry about losing the measurement during disassembly? Looking forward to the next part!
I was thinking the same thing could be accomplished by soldering one bush to the rod so it doesn't slide, and adding a set screw to the other bush to lock it into place after you take the measurement.
I adore these videos. Interested in your third hand Tommy. When using a hand drill you need two hands, one to turn the handle and one to apply steady pressure. When you de-burred that barrel end cap, you held it with a hand. I find myself using my chin to press on the drill in such circumstances. Did you do the same, or do you have a hidden clock maker’s third hand hidden away? Will I never be a clockmaker with my limited anatomy?
Hello Tommy, When you were explaining "End Shake" it made me think that there is a precise amount of non precision to get the end shake.... Cheers. Paul,,
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Lots of useful information in this video!!! Thanks!! I’d love to see a video on mainspring barrel arbor hook repair!! I am new to clock repair, no formal training. But I’m doing what I can within the scope of my abilities. Watching videos like this, is great for us newbies. I want to do things the proper way, and not half arsed. Thanks again!!
Exceptional work. You do a great job explaining the process.. Thank you,
Once again many thanks for the wonderful video of re bushing the Mainspring Barrels,I really love the care you take to achieve the necessary accuracy of arbor pivots and bushings, I am impressed with those lovely machines. Jim from AUSTRALIA.
Thank you.
Brings me back to bushing mainspring barrels, we used to use soft lead soilder to secure the bush in the main spring barrel. My master was strict, good and fair.
Sometimes a sweat of solder is the done thing, I try to avoid it if I can though.
Another great video thanks Tommy for sharing your work
Glad you enjoyed it
Beautifully presented and executed!, thanks
Thank you very much, I'm glad you enjoyed it.
when I clean up the spring barrel hole, I always put the spring barrel cover on so that the reamer always clears the hole perpendicular. then the bearing is not skewed in the spring barrel. great project you have there. thank you for sharing it with us. PS, also before I riveting the bush in, without adding loctite, I countersink the hole slightly with the roller sinker.
I like Chris's internal gauge, great idea... but I think it could be improved by slitting the outer end of each bush, adding a tapered pipe thread at each end, with a wing-nut to lock it into position. That way you need not worry about losing the measurement during disassembly?
Looking forward to the next part!
Cool idea! I made mine so it was a fairly tight sliding fit, but i like your thread idea.
I was thinking the same thing could be accomplished by soldering one bush to the rod so it doesn't slide, and adding a set screw to the other bush to lock it into place after you take the measurement.
A lovely rewarding profession nice video.
Glad you enjoyed it
Nice video, thanks for share!
Nice work, I’ve nearly finished making my two clocks. I didn’t know the saying if it doesn’t rattle it won’t work.
It’s true!
It’s true!
You might want to put a set screw on the bushing gauge.
I adore these videos. Interested in your third hand Tommy. When using a hand drill you need two hands, one to turn the handle and one to apply steady pressure. When you de-burred that barrel end cap, you held it with a hand. I find myself using my chin to press on the drill in such circumstances. Did you do the same, or do you have a hidden clock maker’s third hand hidden away? Will I never be a clockmaker with my limited anatomy?
😂 Good spot! Yes the old chin balance, or belly steady!
@@TommyJobson just need to sharpen the zenker. and then you don't need a drill )))))
Hello Tommy,
When you were explaining "End Shake" it made me think that there is a precise amount of non precision to get the end shake....
Cheers.
Paul,,
That’s a great way of putting it. It’s all about feel. I’m pretty sure clockmakers can feel their way to 0.01mm
Hiw do you hold a barrel when it has teeth. Do you ever experience crushing of the barrel
I can't click the barrel cap back on tried for the last 3 days, the barrel must be distorted. Not sure what to do.
How on earth can you get recessed barrel caps back on, I have tried for the last 3 hours and still can't do it.
Me: No way he can restore this
Tommy: Hold my clock
Careful how you say that! 😂